I bought a LA145 in 2006 and had a hard starting problem right from the beginning. The engine would not turn over very fast so it was always hard to start. At first, I thought that the 165 amp hour battery was the culprit. Put a bigger, 350 amp hour bettery in it and it would turn over a little faster but still was difficult to start. While tuning it up several years later, I decided to adjust the valves. Lo' and behold, the valve adjustment was too loose and prevented the compression relief (release) from working. Once I adjusted the valves to proper clearance, the engine spun over very well and it started right up. All those years of hard starting because I didn't know the engine had a built-in compression release...
Having a hard starting issue on my LA145. On choke, cold start, spins (fast) for a good 20 seconds before it fires off. When hot starts good. Simple easy check to see if that’s issue. Thank you
Hi bbb, I really did find this useful, but can you tell me, what were the starting symptoms? I wish you had recorded that. On mine, it sometimes turns over, and many times clicks and you hear the starter trying to turn the engine and sounds like its stuck. I've replaced battery, starter, ignition coil, sparkplugs, almost everything. And when it runs, it runs fine. Before I open it up and try this, could bad rocker/valve gapping make the motor hard to start? thanks
The engine in this video was turning over very slow when trying to start it. Many of these types of engines use an exhaust valve compression release so it starts easier. Too much play in the valve lash means the push rod is not allowing the compression release to slightly open the exhaust valve for easier starting. I wish you the best on your repair
@@bbbjim1fixedit Hi bbb - thanks for proving this info. I just want to confirm that what you are referring regarding the exhaust value is related to the gapping on the push rod, or is that something else? One other question, did you remove any oil before you took the rocker covers off? Thanks again.
@@MrAluntus no need to remove any oil. The push rod moves the rocker arm which in turn moves the valve open. You need a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the valve and rocker arm. this adjustment is done when the engine is cold
@@bbbjim1fixedit Well thank you so much for your kind advice and putting this video together. I ordered my feeler guages and found the right gap for the engine I have. I will let you know if your advice works.
@@bbbjim1fixedit Hi again, sorry to bother, but one more question for you if you don't mind. I was watching a few other youtube videos where there is a similar issue with single crank shaft engines. The issue is that a piece of the crankshaft that release back pressure when the engine shuts off, breaks off internally and creates resistance when starting. The RUclipsrs all call it poor design and recommend buying the OEM crank as a replacement but I couldn't find a twin cam engine video that describes the same problem. I also looked on John Deere at schematics and I don't see that lifter on the cam. I was wondering if you knew anything about that issue and if you had any more knowledge on the issue. Thanks again.
I'm just gonna add my 2 cents as a professional mechanic. Normally you wanna set the valve lash as per the manufacturers directions. This will help in setting the valve lash at the correct stroke. Secondly, always, always ALWAYS clean off old rtv and apply new rtv to CLEAN AND OIL FREE SURFACES.
I had the same hard start after battery replacement. Adjusted the valves a to my surprise it fixed the hard start. Just make sure your at top dead center before adjusting. Thanks for your help.
Every engine has a spec yet most are .004 on intake and .006 exhaust. It is possible the compression release went bad on the camshaft, a push rod is bent or a worn camshaft. I wish you the best on your repair
@@bbbjim1fixedit it runs great once started, cut grass with it yesterday. With that said it's gotta be valves I would think. It turns over but then very very slow at certain points like in between compression
I have the identical mower. Where did you find the .006 valve lash spec? I've been all over the net and can't seem to find it (even on the Briggs site). I talked to the JD dealer in my area and was told I should set it to .004 but the range is .004 to .006. Thinking I'll just go with .005 but a definitive answer would set my mind at ease. Thanks.
I believe the spec for the exhaust is .006 and the intake is .005. The feeler gauge set I have didn't have a .005 thus I used .006. still out of spec a bit yet closer then before. I wish you the best on setting your lash
Good info. I see you have a twin engine. I have a John Deere 125 twin engine. I was servicing my lawn mower and the left side engine spark plug was easy to locate and change out. The problem was the right side spark plug. I had to remove all the engine shrouds to get at the second spark plug. The engineers put this plug in an awful location. You would have thought they would have cut an access hole in the shrouds so it would be easy to get at it. Giant pain in the ass!!
Some John Deere engines are made to spec by Briggs and some are Kawasaki; They both can use more service friendly designs. I'm glad you liked the video
Hey BBB.Great video. I was hoping I found my answer. I am having the same problem where the engine won't turn with the spark plug in but will with it out. I adjusted the valves and it still does the same thing. Is there something else? Thanks
it is critical to ensure the valves are adjusted when closed to avoid bending the push rods. it is possible a push rod was bent before you adjusted the valves, I would double check that first. secondly if the push rods are straight I would suspect the camsharft has ether a badly worn lobe or the compression release on the exhaust valve is not working as it should. I wish you the best on your repair
When my camera was in the sun I was unable to see the screen and I didn't record that, then after the valve adjustment it was too late, Sorry about that
I was just wondering. I never adjusted my valves and started watching videos. So far you are the only one who did it this way. Almost everyone I have seen, used a screw driver of sort, stuck it in the spark plug hole and made sure the piston was at top dead center. Is one way any better than the other?
When the piston is at top dead center both valves should be closed, yet if you are in the intake stroke and a little off on being TDC you may not get the valves adjusted properly and would have to redo it. I was trying to make a less complicated video so as not to have to redo any adjustments. I wish you the best on your repair
If you want both valves closed (loose) at the same time, the piston would be at TDC on the compression stroke. Check with a screwdriver or light that the piston is near TDC and both valves are loose. If the piston is at TDC and one valve is not loose (the exhaust) then that cylinder is on the exhaust stroke, so turn 360 degrees.
@@billsultry5309 Thanks Bill! Yeah, most videos show it being done this way as well as in the video you sent, therefore I will go with this method. Makes me feel confident that I can do it as I have never done it before. My John Deere D130 has just over 200 hrs on it and that is when the manual says to adjust the valves. Thanks again.
Valve adjustment corrected my D140 starting problems. Thanks for sharing
Glad it helped
I bought a LA145 in 2006 and had a hard starting problem right from the beginning. The engine would not turn over very fast so it was always hard to start. At first, I thought that the 165 amp hour battery was the culprit. Put a bigger, 350 amp hour bettery in it and it would turn over a little faster but still was difficult to start. While tuning it up several years later, I decided to adjust the valves. Lo' and behold, the valve adjustment was too loose and prevented the compression relief (release) from working. Once I adjusted the valves to proper clearance, the engine spun over very well and it started right up. All those years of hard starting because I didn't know the engine had a built-in compression release...
Having a hard starting issue on my LA145. On choke, cold start, spins (fast) for a good 20 seconds before it fires off. When hot starts good. Simple easy check to see if that’s issue. Thank you
I wish you the best on your repair
Hi bbb, I really did find this useful, but can you tell me, what were the starting symptoms? I wish you had recorded that. On mine, it sometimes turns over, and many times clicks and you hear the starter trying to turn the engine and sounds like its stuck. I've replaced battery, starter, ignition coil, sparkplugs, almost everything. And when it runs, it runs fine. Before I open it up and try this, could bad rocker/valve gapping make the motor hard to start? thanks
The engine in this video was turning over very slow when trying to start it. Many of these types of engines use an exhaust valve compression release so it starts easier. Too much play in the valve lash means the push rod is not allowing the compression release to slightly open the exhaust valve for easier starting. I wish you the best on your repair
@@bbbjim1fixedit Hi bbb - thanks for proving this info. I just want to confirm that what you are referring regarding the exhaust value is related to the gapping on the push rod, or is that something else? One other question, did you remove any oil before you took the rocker covers off? Thanks again.
@@MrAluntus no need to remove any oil. The push rod moves the rocker arm which in turn moves the valve open. You need a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the valve and rocker arm. this adjustment is done when the engine is cold
@@bbbjim1fixedit Well thank you so much for your kind advice and putting this video together. I ordered my feeler guages and found the right gap for the engine I have. I will let you know if your advice works.
@@bbbjim1fixedit Hi again, sorry to bother, but one more question for you if you don't mind. I was watching a few other youtube videos where there is a similar issue with single crank shaft engines. The issue is that a piece of the crankshaft that release back pressure when the engine shuts off, breaks off internally and creates resistance when starting. The RUclipsrs all call it poor design and recommend buying the OEM crank as a replacement but I couldn't find a twin cam engine video that describes the same problem. I also looked on John Deere at schematics and I don't see that lifter on the cam. I was wondering if you knew anything about that issue and if you had any more knowledge on the issue. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. I replaced starter new battery and was already thinking of replacing motor as well. So thank you very much for this
Glad it helped
Mine wouldn’t turn over thought completely dead… I can’t wait to try this
I wish you the best
I'm just gonna add my 2 cents as a professional mechanic. Normally you wanna set the valve lash as per the manufacturers directions. This will help in setting the valve lash at the correct stroke. Secondly, always, always ALWAYS clean off old rtv and apply new rtv to CLEAN AND OIL FREE SURFACES.
I had the same hard start after battery replacement. Adjusted the valves a to my surprise it fixed the hard start. Just make sure your at top dead center before adjusting. Thanks for your help.
Glad to hear
Wish you would crank up to show the problem were having be for adjustment
Unfortunately I didn’t get that recorded, yet it was very slow turning over
Just did this on mine and still starts very slow and becomes stuck sometimes. Set both to .004 is that correct?
Every engine has a spec yet most are .004 on intake and .006 exhaust. It is possible the compression release went bad on the camshaft, a push rod is bent or a worn camshaft. I wish you the best on your repair
@@bbbjim1fixedit it runs great once started, cut grass with it yesterday. With that said it's gotta be valves I would think. It turns over but then very very slow at certain points like in between compression
This was very helpful. slightly different setup on my john deere but fixed the problem.
Great to hear!
I have the identical mower. Where did you find the .006 valve lash spec? I've been all over the net and can't seem to find it (even on the Briggs site). I talked to the JD dealer in my area and was told I should set it to .004 but the range is .004 to .006. Thinking I'll just go with .005 but a definitive answer would set my mind at ease. Thanks.
I believe the spec for the exhaust is .006 and the intake is .005. The feeler gauge set I have didn't have a .005 thus I used .006. still out of spec a bit yet closer then before. I wish you the best on setting your lash
Good info. I see you have a twin engine. I have a John Deere 125 twin engine. I was servicing my lawn mower and the left side engine spark plug was easy to locate and change out. The problem was the right side spark plug. I had to remove all the engine shrouds to get at the second spark plug. The engineers put this plug in an awful location. You would have thought they would have cut an access hole in the shrouds so it would be easy to get at it. Giant pain in the ass!!
Some John Deere engines are made to spec by Briggs and some are Kawasaki; They both can use more service friendly designs. I'm glad you liked the video
Hey BBB.Great video. I was hoping I found my answer. I am having the same problem where the engine won't turn with the spark plug in but will with it out. I adjusted the valves and it still does the same thing. Is there something else? Thanks
it is critical to ensure the valves are adjusted when closed to avoid bending the push rods. it is possible a push rod was bent before you adjusted the valves, I would double check that first. secondly if the push rods are straight I would suspect the camsharft has ether a badly worn lobe or the compression release on the exhaust valve is not working as it should. I wish you the best on your repair
@@bbbjim1fixedit Yea, I discovered the camshaft that needs replacing
It helps if you start by demonstrating the problem. Just saying "hard-starting" doesn't really narrow it down a lot.
will keep that in mind for future videos
Boy, do I feel like a dope, I paid $100 to have this done at the shop. I didn't realize how simple the procedure is. Good video.
I'm glad you liked the video, in the future you can save a bit more of your money
I wish you showed the slow turning before you did the adjustments.
When my camera was in the sun I was unable to see the screen and I didn't record that, then after the valve adjustment it was too late, Sorry about that
are you bob ross the painter? couldn’t see you very well but the hair was a dead give away. hello bob... 😆
Shh I am in the witness protection program
@@bbbjim1fixedit XD
Thanks. I got fed up with the valve driven fuel pump and made mine into Lol well fuel injected runs perfect
Great job!
How exactly did you do that?
@@itzyeti4217 if I tell you then I can not Capitalize on it 😜
Thanks for the video , Very helpful 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Do you remember how many hours were on it at the time of adjustment?
Just under 120 hours, yet it was hard to turn over since about 100 hours.
bbb jim1 no good thanks for the reply
I was just wondering. I never adjusted my valves and started watching videos. So far you are the only one who did it this way. Almost everyone I have seen, used a screw driver of sort, stuck it in the spark plug hole and made sure the piston was at top dead center. Is one way any better than the other?
When the piston is at top dead center both valves should be closed, yet if you are in the intake stroke and a little off on being TDC you may not get the valves adjusted properly and would have to redo it. I was trying to make a less complicated video so as not to have to redo any adjustments. I wish you the best on your repair
@@bbbjim1fixedit Thanks!
If you want both valves closed (loose) at the same time, the piston would be at TDC on the compression stroke. Check with a screwdriver or light that the piston is near TDC and both valves are loose. If the piston is at TDC and one valve is not loose (the exhaust) then that cylinder is on the exhaust stroke, so turn 360 degrees.
@@BasicPoke Thanks!
@@billsultry5309 Thanks Bill! Yeah, most videos show it being done this way as well as in the video you sent, therefore I will go with this method. Makes me feel confident that I can do it as I have never done it before. My John Deere D130 has just over 200 hrs on it and that is when the manual says to adjust the valves. Thanks again.