What an amazing project! The 60 series has undoubtedly the best exterior design in my opinion. Looking very forward to seeing it all put together and love the attention to details. One thing to note regarding strengthening your chassis by adding the plates to the sides of the frame. The highest stresses and strains will be seen at the top and bottom of the frame, that's where you will see the most gains by adding plates. Very similar to I beams, the web thickness (center plate connecting the top and bottom flange) is always thinner than the top and bottom flange since it's only purpose to hold the two flanges together. Looking forward to hearing your opinion. From the looks of it, the main purpose of the plates is to locate the front and rear suspension mounting plates? Cheers!
Cheers mate, 100% agree with you regarding the top and bottom faces of the chassis adding the most stiffness, however your also right, while adding some stiffness to the rail, most of the plating is there to locate and strengthen the joins of all the bracketery that’s going to be fitted.
Keep up the awesome work and videos matt, you’re a true inspiration! Currently doing chassis plates, towers, ifs steering box, ruf, high steer, turbo with intercooler on my ln106. And learning along the way. Cheers 🤙
It was interesting to learn why the fishplates are cut triangulated at the ends. I always had assumed it was to get a longer weld compared to a straight edge.
Great video, I love that you take the time to explain both what you’re doing and why. I found some real gold nuggets of info in this video. Can’t wait to see the finished product 👍
Great job on the video on how your explaining your logic the younger generation will learn heaps and be inspired so will us older young blokes lol 😂 . This is a great project matt love your work .
Another fantastic video - thanks for sharing, I'm learning so much! I worry about warping the part with that much lamination, particularly strengthening diffs - it would be good if you can mention how you manage this problem with your design.
Matt, Can you go through the engineering process with us along the way? Like when to first contact all the way to sign off? Can be just snippets not chasing to many trade secrets. Essentially to stop average Joe blow from pissing one off or not asking enough questions etc. Cheers
Mate, this is so cool and interesting. That would be my dream job building up 4wds like this. Currently, I'm building my hilux up to be a road registered rock crawler
fkn oath! One thing i really like about this is that he explains everything so clealrly and everything he does is so logical and smart like fuck most of the times i could never think of that
Bloody awesome mate looking foward to this series, just a thought regarding the cad stuff and maybe anything else quite technical and in depth maybe do something simmilar to sam eyles and yea have it as a seperate series, (tech talk) sorta thing that way theres a dedicated section to it
Thanks man, yeah your on the money with that. The videos will go forever otherwise trying to cover an entire topic while also build progress all in one haha
Awesome build bro. Since your first episode ive been putting together a build in my head. Hopefully one day i can start collecting parts for it. Couple of questions, Im guessing you will get a GVM upgrade as the rover is something like 2.7t? Are you still going to get to keep the 4t towing? How much weight are you adding is chassis bracing/brackets vs what you have cut off? I didnt think you were meant to weld within a certain distance (10 or 20mm, i cant remember) from the radius of the corners of the chassis, as in if you were to look at the box section cut through from east to west of the chassis rails.
Hey Ben, I’ll probably end up going through all this in different videos along the way, they’re great points. We can up the gvm to whatever it passes testing for without exceeding the max limits of the parts I use, so for example the 105 diffs are good for more so long as the brakes and wheels etc are too we can run that gvm, but the chassis needs to have new load testing done to suit with all the new modifications I’m doing to it. The radius thing you are right in some circumstances from my understanding it depends on the load of the bracket and the way it’s applied etc.
I have a dumb question about leveling out the chassis obviously you level it out driver to passenger or left to right but what about front to back? Do you just base that off what you want in terms of ride height?
I clamp a long bit of rhs or similar to the bottom of the long flat section of chassis through the middle and level that. You could also use a chassis drawing and get some dimensions off that to work with, but this works and less maths.
Hey Matt, what sort of rust proofing is required when laminating the chassis like that? With final paint not able to get between the layers, have you ever seen a problem with rust under the fish plates? Always wondered what I should do when laminating steel on different projects. Have often painted first but that obviously gets compromised during the welding process. Cheers, Jake.
when i see other people weld to chassis the use copper spray or welding spray paint on the chassis before they put the plates on. is there a reason why you didn’t?
I’ll go through this when we get to painting the chassis as I figured it would come up, I spoke to a bunch of different guys regarding this and I think we’ve come up with a pretty decent plan
I’ll cover this when we get to painting the chassis, after speaking to the painters short of painting the whole chassis in a decent primer and then grinding half of it back off to weld the plates on the solution was to just weld it all up then we will seal inside and out with a polyurethane primer to prevent any water and stuff getting in there
Just the chassis mate, as it’ll be registered using that vin and all it’s existing data, tow, gcm etc. (this is all nsw info, might be different in other states)
Self taught mate, covered a little bit of it at TAFE in my apprenticeship, but also did my apprenticeship with an adult apprentice, who had been a boily for like 30 years, spent a lot of saturdays at his old workplace working on my car with him there babysitting me 😂
Nice work mate. I too have repaired acouple hilux histeer issues for people. What cad program do you use. I have solidworks, then use vcarve pro for the router and the waterjet has its own basic 2d cad program.
Don’t think I could handle listening to myself on loop editing it if it was any longer 😂😂😂 maybe when I work out what I’m actually doing it’ll go smoother and I won’t want to edit it on mute haha
My mate showed me this build series and now I’m hooked
Thanks sick
Wish you do a 4Runner one day
Maybe one day!
This is going to be the best build to date anyone has ever done. Well thought out & very unique 👏👏👏
Big call man!
This is awesome. Love my 60, love what you are doing
Great to see a build getting done properly. Well done
Thanks mate
Great stuff man really like the way you explain how it all works 👍 keep it going.
What an amazing project! The 60 series has undoubtedly the best exterior design in my opinion. Looking very forward to seeing it all put together and love the attention to details.
One thing to note regarding strengthening your chassis by adding the plates to the sides of the frame. The highest stresses and strains will be seen at the top and bottom of the frame, that's where you will see the most gains by adding plates. Very similar to I beams, the web thickness (center plate connecting the top and bottom flange) is always thinner than the top and bottom flange since it's only purpose to hold the two flanges together. Looking forward to hearing your opinion.
From the looks of it, the main purpose of the plates is to locate the front and rear suspension mounting plates?
Cheers!
Cheers mate,
100% agree with you regarding the top and bottom faces of the chassis adding the most stiffness, however your also right, while adding some stiffness to the rail, most of the plating is there to locate and strengthen the joins of all the bracketery that’s going to be fitted.
Good thinking/design choice with the crush tubes👌
Cheers man, definitely learnt that the hard way 😅
The most valuable channel on RUclips and Matt’s an awesome bloke too. 👌
Keep up the awesome work and videos matt, you’re a true inspiration! Currently doing chassis plates, towers, ifs steering box, ruf, high steer, turbo with intercooler on my ln106. And learning along the way. Cheers 🤙
Nice mate
Best video ive seen in long time on RUclips keep up the great work
Thanks John.
Sooo keen for this build, definitely buying those long gloves!
They’re so good man!
Love build already
Me too
Great insight with the use of the laser level
It was interesting to learn why the fishplates are cut triangulated at the ends. I always had assumed it was to get a longer weld compared to a straight edge.
Glad you learnt something mate 🤢
👍* wrong emoji haha
Great video, I love that you take the time to explain both what you’re doing and why. I found some real gold nuggets of info in this video.
Can’t wait to see the finished product 👍
Thanks mate
Fantastic videos Matt love your work 👍👍
Great video 👍
Loving the build man looking forward to more vids!!
Great job on the video on how your explaining your logic the younger generation will learn heaps and be inspired so will us older young blokes lol 😂 . This is a great project matt love your work .
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good stuff matt
Loving the videos mate, can't wait to see the next.
Great Video Matt. Explaining how to do this and why you did it. The laser is a good idea .
Thanks 👍
Absolutely huge!
Man these videos are awesome. The tech side is on point
Thanks mate!
Another fantastic video - thanks for sharing, I'm learning so much! I worry about warping the part with that much lamination, particularly strengthening diffs - it would be good if you can mention how you manage this problem with your design.
Thanks bob. good point mate, I’ll go through it when I do the weld out
Awesome Matt👌
So knowledgeable love it mate. Cheers
Great explanation on every process 🤙🏽
Thanks mate
Great stuff Matt
Love it mate
This is awesome Matt, your a freaking smart dude
Thanks man, get it wrong enough times eventually you get it right, right 😂
Nice!
That is one intelligent dude
Matt, Can you go through the engineering process with us along the way? Like when to first contact all the way to sign off? Can be just snippets not chasing to many trade secrets. Essentially to stop average Joe blow from pissing one off or not asking enough questions etc. Cheers
Sure will mate, that’s a good one!
Holy shit Matt!!!!! Thats some good shit man super interesting.
Thanks mate
Mate, this is so cool and interesting. That would be my dream job building up 4wds like this. Currently, I'm building my hilux up to be a road registered rock crawler
Nice man, good choice of car!
fkn oath! One thing i really like about this is that he explains everything so clealrly and everything he does is so logical and smart like fuck most of the times i could never think of that
Thanks mate!
Bloody awesome mate looking foward to this series, just a thought regarding the cad stuff and maybe anything else quite technical and in depth maybe do something simmilar to sam eyles and yea have it as a seperate series, (tech talk) sorta thing that way theres a dedicated section to it
Thanks man, yeah your on the money with that. The videos will go forever otherwise trying to cover an entire topic while also build progress all in one haha
Love it so far
What’s the reason for not protecting the unpainted steel prior to welding ?
Once it’s all fully welded it’ll be getting coated inside and out with a polyurethane primer to seal it all up
Got ya ok so the weld and the coating essentially will seal in between the two surfaces 👍
Are the RRC chassis plates and 4 link rear something that will be available on your website?
Awesome build bro. Since your first episode ive been putting together a build in my head. Hopefully one day i can start collecting parts for it.
Couple of questions,
Im guessing you will get a GVM upgrade as the rover is something like 2.7t? Are you still going to get to keep the 4t towing?
How much weight are you adding is chassis bracing/brackets vs what you have cut off?
I didnt think you were meant to weld within a certain distance (10 or 20mm, i cant remember) from the radius of the corners of the chassis, as in if you were to look at the box section cut through from east to west of the chassis rails.
Hey Ben, I’ll probably end up going through all this in different videos along the way, they’re great points.
We can up the gvm to whatever it passes testing for without exceeding the max limits of the parts I use, so for example the 105 diffs are good for more so long as the brakes and wheels etc are too we can run that gvm, but the chassis needs to have new load testing done to suit with all the new modifications I’m doing to it.
The radius thing you are right in some circumstances from my understanding it depends on the load of the bracket and the way it’s applied etc.
I have a dumb question about leveling out the chassis obviously you level it out driver to passenger or left to right but what about front to back? Do you just base that off what you want in terms of ride height?
I clamp a long bit of rhs or similar to the bottom of the long flat section of chassis through the middle and level that. You could also use a chassis drawing and get some dimensions off that to work with, but this works and less maths.
With the chassis bracing plates you put on did you have to prime the back of the steel? Are you worried about rust building up?
Hi mate, no we will seal it all up after, will cover this when we come to painting the chassis
Hey Matt, what sort of rust proofing is required when laminating the chassis like that? With final paint not able to get between the layers, have you ever seen a problem with rust under the fish plates? Always wondered what I should do when laminating steel on different projects. Have often painted first but that obviously gets compromised during the welding process. Cheers, Jake.
Hey Jake, I’ll go through this in a video when we get to painting the chassis etc, there was many discussions had about this
@@mattkinsela I’ll look forward to it. Cheers.
when i see other people weld to chassis the use copper spray or welding spray paint on the chassis before they put the plates on. is there a reason why you didn’t?
I’ll go through this when we get to painting the chassis as I figured it would come up, I spoke to a bunch of different guys regarding this and I think we’ve come up with a pretty decent plan
@@mattkinsela awesome can’t wait i am loving every episode. you are a great teacher
Super informative series mate! One question are you priming between the chassis and bracing plates or do you have another solution to stop corrosion ?
I’ll cover this when we get to painting the chassis, after speaking to the painters short of painting the whole chassis in a decent primer and then grinding half of it back off to weld the plates on the solution was to just weld it all up then we will seal inside and out with a polyurethane primer to prevent any water and stuff getting in there
Yeah ok good stuff, loving the series so far anyway mate! Keen to follow along!
With the rrc 4ton tow what parts did you need to keep for the engineer to be happy to keep it as a 4ton tow rating?
Just the chassis mate, as it’ll be registered using that vin and all it’s existing data, tow, gcm etc. (this is all nsw info, might be different in other states)
Awesome video man loved it heaps of learning,weird question but are you a qualified fabricator or are you self taught
Self taught mate, covered a little bit of it at TAFE in my apprenticeship, but also did my apprenticeship with an adult apprentice, who had been a boily for like 30 years, spent a lot of saturdays at his old workplace working on my car with him there babysitting me 😂
@@mattkinsela yeah ok fair enough,so you don’t need to be qualified to own your fabrication business?
Nice work mate.
I too have repaired acouple hilux histeer issues for people.
What cad program do you use.
I have solidworks, then use vcarve pro for the router and the waterjet has its own basic 2d cad program.
Yeah it’s a pretty common issue for them hey!
Solidworks mate, only the best 💪
@mattkinsela nice.
Solidworks definitely for the win.
Looking into a 3d scanner now, not a super expensive one tho.
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@@mattkinsela frothing this build . Longer uploads is a yes from me .
Don’t think I could handle listening to myself on loop editing it if it was any longer 😂😂😂 maybe when I work out what I’m actually doing it’ll go smoother and I won’t want to edit it on mute haha
This is gunna be a cool build but to much talking not enough working