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You would have to preheat the entire housing to at least 200c and then monitor the heat throughout the process making sure not to get too hot. Pre tension can be used but it’s an art and generally need more than most people think, plus the equipment to do that given the odd shape and welding locations. Fixtures can work but again they are complicated due to shape etc and if you inadvertently restrain in the wrong location or direction you’ll cause more distortion… I’ve only built a few housings but with simple tools I find it a mater of good design, good welding procedure and then straighten.

You’re right, it’s way less of an issue on the heavy wall Dana or Sheetmetal housings, more metal needs more heat I suppose.

@@mattkinsela stamped sheetmetal as in hilux, cruiser, patrol, 9"

Yeah that’s it! Yeah I may do a separate video on the straightening process, everyone seems very interested although I didn’t think it would be/ it’s a bit hard to do at home. Shows what I know! 🤣

Haha!

Na no thanks man!

I’ll probably do a separate video on the straightening. Na just welded it out like I normally would, stitch it till it’s done over like 15 minutes. No pre loading I think it’s a bit of a waste of effort, no idea which way it’s going to move when your welding it

Cheers mate

Agreed

most inboard trusses are to mount links on and stop the centre section spinning on the axle tubes.

@@6226superhurricane yep but that’s not what I’m taking about. You might be from the US where Salisbury style housings are much more common and tubes spinning a potential problem. These banjo style housings don’t spin tubes as they are a completely different construction. My comment was based on the vast majority of weld in strengthening kits and owner made stuff for Banjo housings which are used in Toyotas, Nissans , LRs etc

@@husq2100 nope i'm from australia, salisbury are landrover diffs they made their own stamped housings and nodular iron housings based off dana designs. i was just pointing out that a truss doesn't have to go wheel to wheel to be useful. the centre section is the main problem area, as evidenced by the stamped housings that break axletubes near the centre.

@@6226superhurricane A quick history lesson, Salisbury was an American company (Salisbury Wheel Company) founded in 1901, they started making front then rear axle assemblies a few years later, then were bought by Spicer in 1919 but still built the axles. They supplied MANY vehicles (including war time jeeps) with their axle design, which was referred to as a Salisbury. They were renamed Spicer Axle Division in about 1970. It’s one of those brand recognition things. So you have Dana (44, 60, 70 etc ) Chev (12 bolt) , AAM, Sterling diffs etc but the housing style can be referred to as a Salisbury (and even US companies like Currire do so) I’ve never seen a banjo snap its “tubes” ( that doesn’t mean it hasn’t happened) but have seen plenty bend at the ends. It’s simple physics. Forces acting one way (at the wheel) forces resisted in the opposite directions (at the outer links, spring mounts and bumps). There is nothing acting upon the middle of the housing. By reinforcing the middle of the housing and stopping that reinforcement just inboard of the resistance points you are creating a greater change in stiffness, which creates a greater stress riser. In short it’s not a good idea. If you are bending housing to the point of tube tear out/ shearing , you need to start from scratch or cut all the bracketry off, strengthen then fab all new mounting points. If you’ve taken a big hit and stopped the centre area from bending or failing without reinforcing to the ends, 100% your ends are bent…

On the money!

Are there go-to places to buy a centreless ground solid bar? I assume a steel supplier but what about the pucks? Cheers

D2 radius arms will be longer than Toyota LC and they have big flexible bushes….

We do have a diy kit we send overseas regularly, shoot me an email man!

Yeah I might do a separate video!

If you are retaining a standard arm then flipping it will do little. If you change the bush separation at axle end or the overall length of arm this would.

@husq2100 I have played around a little with the suspension calculators but not worked out how to calculate for radius arms. I would have thought the angle of the arms would affect the anti dive characteristics. The separation of the mounts at the diff end would effect the stability under brakes and obviously flex. But for a rear triangulated 4 link the link separation at the diff housing is around 25% of tyre diameter which isn't part of anti squat calculation, more a resistance to the diff rolling under accelerations and braking. Happy to be corrected and would be even happier if someone could show how to put radius arms into a suspension calculator

@@bennyjahmin3953 I was a bit wrong. The axle end separation will absolutely affect anti squat/dive on a 3 link or 4 link because it’s the relationship between upper and lower control arms that determines the convergence points, but on a RA it is simply the chassis end pivot that would change anything . A Longer radius arm up front means less anti lift/dive. As for angle of the arm, it doesn’t matter if on top or bottom of the housing the convergence is still the same at the chassis end and the line from tyre contact still strikes through the convergence point. As for axle roll axis angle, some will argue that this changes with flipped radius arms, but I can’t see how it can give its physical attachment and attributes to and with the axle housing. I always plot my front roll axis (with RAs) from axle tube centre to centre of RA chassis bush. Regarding how to calculate RA anti lift (anti dive is a braking force and also requires brake bias in the equation) just use the 3 link calculator. Lowers will be the lower axle bush and chassis bush centres, upper will be the upper axle bush and chassis bush centres. It won’t be truly accurate for change through travel as a 3 link will have a slightly different pinion change and relationship change between upper and lower than a “fixed” RA but it will be close enough for your needs.

Arm flip won’t change it, the only thing you can do on a radius arm setup to help is extend the arm and lower the chassis mount to the ground.

I don't think it'd make a difference. It's not the just the "timeframe" that pulls the diff, it's the added metal of the filler wire. You just can't get around the fact that you're adding metal to the assembly in a molten form that then cools and contracts.

Maybe slightly but it’s probably negligible

Might do a seperate video, not really that easy at home though

Yeah I might do a seperate video

Cheers mate, you might like one I’m working on at the moment 😉

@@mattkinsela can’t wait to see it 😊

Cheers mate, will do!

Sometimes 😂

The problem is the stresses are accumulative. When a weld cools, it shrinks. You might reduce this with not doing them all at once or even “back stepping” but they won’t be neutral. Peening the hot weld can help as well. I’d guess your housing is not true. But you might be lucky and it might be minimal. I’m not familiar with GU but I don’t run axle seals in the housing in my LR. A CV will allow a little more misalignment than a straight rear axle will. The other thing, are the swivel balls cast or forged? They can look very similar. Forging would be superior in strength.

You’ll probably be fine, Gu brace kits tend to go ok when they sit down halfway onto the tube both sides sort of cancelling each other out if that makes sense. They can usually do with a bit of a touch up but nothing too extreme if it was done how you have.

Numbers for what mate? As in travel?

It would bend that bar and you'll never get it out.

Na it’ll just pull the bar with it unfortunately

Yeah I might do a seperate video on it

Yeah I've got a slightly kinked front on my GU. Would love it straightened and braced.

Lots. Small amounts get away with it, but more bent can definitely lead to failed wheel bearings, snapped drive flange bolts or axles.

Yeah there would be a fair few!

Thanks

Thanks mate, yeah it’s a great mod!

@ I will want to send you my housing , it’s way out of my wheelhouse to do that kind of work. What’s your turnaround time. Thank you

2 days of the arms are in stock, which we do tend to have on the shelf

@ I’ll send you an email to work out the transport

I was really looking forward to seeing how that's done

Same

I was kind of hoping the same. I recently straightened a trophy truck housing with a 3.5" x 3/8" wall thickness axle tube. Did it by securing on a huge beam and preloading in the direction it needed to go then using lots of heat/quench cycles. Is now running true

I might do a separate video on it

@@mattkinsela would also like to see if preheating and wrapping in a fibreglass blanket to slow the cooling has an effecting on the warping

Yeah had a few guys ask for one, I’ll get one done!

Yeah alright man a few people have asked I’ll get one done!

@ awesome mate looking forward to it!

Vulcan/ ullrich and capital aluminium manufacture it, possibly others too. But most shops that sell alloy will be able to get it in for you!

@ thank you

Cheers mate, most aluminium suppliers will be able to get it for you. I’m not its actual name, possibly floor plate. The suppliers I’ve used are capital aluminium and ullrich/vulcan now. But most small suppliers would buy off these guys anyway

@ awesome mate, appreciate the reply! Keen to see more videos

Cheers mate!

3mm mate

@ thanks mate - nice work, I like the mix of Ally and steel 👌🏻

Haha who’s got time to stop for lunch!

There’s a T-shirt in that👍🏻…luxy on a 45 degree angle - time for a burrito 😅

Yeah the 105 is alright, be better when it’s done 😂

Thanks, glad you like it

Cheers man, yeah huck bolts! Sorry probably should have said that lol. You can rent the gun if you don’t want to purchase it too, which is what we use to do when we started using them in some builds as they’re pretty dear! Well our local guys rent them, not sure about other shops