Thank you. So much bad advice out there. Everything you said is spot on. I have Revel Gem2 speakers with their own stands so I will optimise to those but just in case I end up later getting a pair of Bare Foots or Opals or PMCs or Focal at some point in the future, I will make sure the height is good for then as well.
Glad the advice resonated with you! It sounds like you already have some great speakers with the Revel Gem2's and optimizing for them now while keeping future changes in mind (like Barefoots, PMCs, or Focals) is a smart approach. Making your panel installation height correspond to the speakers (or even using larger/taller panels) will definitely help maintain optimal listening conditions, regardless of the speakers you choose down the road. I'm hoping that I can get a set of the focals one day myself 🤤🙏 Interestingly each of those brands you mentioned has slightly different sweet spot ranges in terms of ideal listening height & distance. For example, speakers like Barefoot often have a near-field sweet spot, while most PMC and Focal models benefit from slightly different height/distance adjustments (depending on the room’s acoustics and your listening distance from the speakers). Being able to change or modify your setup around your speakers (especially if you decide to change things up) will set you up for success. It’s awesome that you’re thinking ahead no matter which monitors you end up with down the road! Let me know how the setup goes or if you’re thinking about exploring some room treatments too! - Jacob w/ NGAcoustics.com
@@NGAcoustics Nice to meet you, Jacob! Actually Jacob, since I wrote that, I did install most of the acoustical treatment I had ordered before I found NGA. I've put bass traps in the front corners only (12" wide, 4" deep, full 8' high, angled in the corners), and three 2x4x2" panels on the side walls with one panel also behind each speaker. I'm just waiting for delivery of four 1'x3' panels that I plan on putting above the double french door on the wall between the speakers, and on the soffit behind me where the ceiling drops from 8' to 7'. Even without those four new ones, the room is much better as regards to any slap echo I hear from where I'll be sitting. But the back of the room is still a little live if I want to record with a little bit of "room" in the entry niche. It's pretty interesting, and I probably should have taken measurements from a company like NGA, but after being an audiophile and a published AV reviewer for 20 years, I've sat in my share of hotel rooms where bass traps and self standing panels adorned the walls and corners. I did make sure to use a good mirror and make sure that both the speaker images either far back (near wall) and closer to the mixing desk positions were reflected in the mirror. The only thing I did skip was a cloud. I have a popcorn ceiling, so hopefully, it will refract some. Let me know if you would like any pics and we'll find a way to get them to you! Fred
What would be the best thing to do when i have a livingroom of 5x5meter sitting like 3 and half meter away from soundbar and having only a big table for consoles like playstation and bluray and such. Behind me is a doorway and right of me is a doorway (doors are removed) Samsung hw-q995b is the thing I wanna get help with Floor is like 3meter
No doubts, room dimensions are critically important for good sound reproduction, especially for low frequencies. Nevertheless, if we have the limited space of variables, which fully determine the sound result, it means, that among possible room dimensions for known low frequencies source position (height) there are the best, the worst and medium sets of such a room dimensions. The best room dimensions set for low frequencies is understood like for having minimal spread for amplitude-frequency dependence in range 20 - 150 Hz. Corresponding to this thesis, we can have (or not!) so-called Acoustical Dimensions for this room. Do you agree?
Absolutely, I agree with your perspective. Room dimensions play a pivotal role in sound reproduction, particularly in the critical low-frequency ranges. The interplay between room dimensions, speaker placement, and listener position can greatly influence how sound waves interact within a space. When we talk about the "best" room dimensions (for low frequencies) we are indeed referring to configurations that minimize problems like standing waves, resonance, and amplitude variations across the frequency spectrum - especially in the 20-150 Hz range. These ideal dimensions can help achieve a more balanced and even frequency response, which is essential for accurate sound reproduction. The concept of "Acoustical Dimensions" you mentioned aligns with this idea. Essentially, it suggests that certain dimensions will yield better acoustic performance by optimizing the room's modal characteristics. By selecting dimensions that promote favorable interactions between sound waves, you can reduce problematic resonances and improve clarity and definition in the low-frequency range. Which is exactly why we made or Rooms Dimensions Cheat Sheet: www.nextgenerationacoustics.com/products/room-dimensions-cheat-sheet Our cheat sheet is designed to be easy to use and understand, with a color-coded system to help you quickly identify good, cautionary, and poor dimensions. It's a must-have whether you're setting up a home theater, recording studio, or simply want to reduce echoes and reverb before you choose a studio room or build a new living room! Our download will help you optimize the acoustics of your room BEFORE you get in too deep! In practice, while it may not always be feasible to design a room with ideal dimensions, understanding these acoustical principles allows for better planning and treatment strategies. This knowledge can/should guide decisions about speaker and listener placement, as well as the use of acoustic treatments (like bass traps and acoustic panels) to mitigate the effects of less-than-ideal room dimensions. Striving for optimal room dimensions and understanding the acoustical characteristics of your space are crucial steps in achieving high-quality sound reproduction.
No doubts, room dimensions are critically important for good sound reproduction, especially for low frequencies. Nevertheless, if we have the limited space of variables, which fully determine the sound result, it means, that among possible room dimensions for known low frequencies source position (height) there are the best, the worst and medium sets of such a room dimensions. The best room dimensions set for low frequencies is understood like for having minimal spread for amplitude-frequency dependence in range 20 - 150 Hz. Corresponding to this thesis, we can have (or not!) so-called Acoustical Dimensions for this room. Bass traps or any equalizer devices impoverish bass sound and make sound brightless at all.
Yes, the impact of room dimensions on acoustics is crucial, but bass traps are valuable tools for managing problematic frequencies. They don’t necessarily "impoverish bass" but instead help to create a clearer, more accurate listening environment. However, the need for Bass Traps depends on the specific context in which you're using them. In some cases, a simple reduction in reverberation or rearranging your setup may be all that's necessary to achieve the desired sound in a room!
What do you recommend for a mounting height for diy panels mounted on the ceiling to mitigate noisy neighbors above? Would you recommend directly mounting to the ceiling or hung on chains? Also, do you have a room coverage recommendation for this application? I would rather error on the side of too much coverage. I am just really tired of noisy neighbors above us and would like to make a substantial investment now to ensure years of comfort. Thank you in advance.
Hi Sean, I’m sorry to say that there’s no perfect solution for completely eliminating the noise you’re experiencing. The most effective way to address this issue is to tackle it at the source. Unless you can move, some level of noise will likely always be present - due to sound transmission coming through the building's structure. You can (theoretically) reduce overall noise transfer by adding density and creating an air gap, but completely eliminating it is essentially impossible. Using “standard” acoustic panels or ceiling baffles is not necessarily the optimal solution for your specific situation. While they DO help reduce noise transmission coming from within a room, they are not as effective at stopping noise coming in from other rooms.. For a more custom tailored solution, we could design a high-density soundproofing baffle with plywood at its core, sound-absorbing material on both sides, and a sturdy frame. This would improve both density and absorption, possibly helping to lessen the perceived noise. Another option is installing an acoustic drop ceiling with a grid system and acoustic insulation in the space above. This can be effective, especially in rooms with higher ceilings (over 9-10 feet). However, it can be quite costly and less ideal for lower ceilings. I hope this helps you find a way to manage the noise issue effectively! Best regards, Jacob@NGAcoustics.com
I think you might be better off with ANC headphones or ear muffs rather than drop ceilings, or acoustic panel installations. You'd have to cover the whole roof in order to have absolutely no leakage in sound which is cost prohibitive.
You are referring to “sound transmission” which can only be mitigated with construction. “Sound absorption” (which is what the video is about) is about containing unwanted reflections inside of a room.
Thank you. So much bad advice out there. Everything you said is spot on. I have Revel Gem2 speakers with their own stands so I will optimise to those but just in case I end up later getting a pair of Bare Foots or Opals or PMCs or Focal at some point in the future, I will make sure the height is good for then as well.
Glad the advice resonated with you! It sounds like you already have some great speakers with the Revel Gem2's and optimizing for them now while keeping future changes in mind (like Barefoots, PMCs, or Focals) is a smart approach.
Making your panel installation height correspond to the speakers (or even using larger/taller panels) will definitely help maintain optimal listening conditions, regardless of the speakers you choose down the road. I'm hoping that I can get a set of the focals one day myself 🤤🙏
Interestingly each of those brands you mentioned has slightly different sweet spot ranges in terms of ideal listening height & distance. For example, speakers like Barefoot often have a near-field sweet spot, while most PMC and Focal models benefit from slightly different height/distance adjustments (depending on the room’s acoustics and your listening distance from the speakers). Being able to change or modify your setup around your speakers (especially if you decide to change things up) will set you up for success. It’s awesome that you’re thinking ahead no matter which monitors you end up with down the road!
Let me know how the setup goes or if you’re thinking about exploring some room treatments too!
- Jacob w/ NGAcoustics.com
@@NGAcoustics
Nice to meet you, Jacob!
Actually Jacob, since I wrote that, I did install most of the acoustical treatment I had ordered before I found NGA. I've put bass traps in the front corners only (12" wide, 4" deep, full 8' high, angled in the corners), and three 2x4x2" panels on the side walls with one panel also behind each speaker. I'm just waiting for delivery of four 1'x3' panels that I plan on putting above the double french door on the wall between the speakers, and on the soffit behind me where the ceiling drops from 8' to 7'. Even without those four new ones, the room is much better as regards to any slap echo I hear from where I'll be sitting. But the back of the room is still a little live if I want to record with a little bit of "room" in the entry niche.
It's pretty interesting, and I probably should have taken measurements from a company like NGA, but after being an audiophile and a published AV reviewer for 20 years, I've sat in my share of hotel rooms where bass traps and self standing panels adorned the walls and corners. I did make sure to use a good mirror and make sure that both the speaker images either far back (near wall) and closer to the mixing desk positions were reflected in the mirror.
The only thing I did skip was a cloud. I have a popcorn ceiling, so hopefully, it will refract some.
Let me know if you would like any pics and we'll find a way to get them to you!
Fred
What would be the best thing to do when i have a livingroom of 5x5meter sitting like 3 and half meter away from soundbar and having only a big table for consoles like playstation and bluray and such. Behind me is a doorway and right of me is a doorway (doors are removed)
Samsung hw-q995b is the thing I wanna get help with
Floor is like 3meter
Well said brother
Thanks man!!
No doubts, room dimensions are critically important for good sound reproduction, especially for low frequencies. Nevertheless, if we have the limited space of variables, which fully determine the sound result, it means, that among possible room dimensions for known low frequencies source position (height) there are the best, the worst and medium sets of such a room dimensions. The best room dimensions set for low frequencies is understood like for having minimal spread for amplitude-frequency dependence in range 20 - 150 Hz. Corresponding to this thesis, we can have (or not!) so-called Acoustical Dimensions for this room. Do you agree?
Absolutely, I agree with your perspective. Room dimensions play a pivotal role in sound reproduction, particularly in the critical low-frequency ranges. The interplay between room dimensions, speaker placement, and listener position can greatly influence how sound waves interact within a space.
When we talk about the "best" room dimensions (for low frequencies) we are indeed referring to configurations that minimize problems like standing waves, resonance, and amplitude variations across the frequency spectrum - especially in the 20-150 Hz range. These ideal dimensions can help achieve a more balanced and even frequency response, which is essential for accurate sound reproduction.
The concept of "Acoustical Dimensions" you mentioned aligns with this idea. Essentially, it suggests that certain dimensions will yield better acoustic performance by optimizing the room's modal characteristics. By selecting dimensions that promote favorable interactions between sound waves, you can reduce problematic resonances and improve clarity and definition in the low-frequency range. Which is exactly why we made or Rooms Dimensions Cheat Sheet:
www.nextgenerationacoustics.com/products/room-dimensions-cheat-sheet
Our cheat sheet is designed to be easy to use and understand, with a color-coded system to help you quickly identify good, cautionary, and poor dimensions. It's a must-have whether you're setting up a home theater, recording studio, or simply want to reduce echoes and reverb before you choose a studio room or build a new living room! Our download will help you optimize the acoustics of your room BEFORE you get in too deep!
In practice, while it may not always be feasible to design a room with ideal dimensions, understanding these acoustical principles allows for better planning and treatment strategies. This knowledge can/should guide decisions about speaker and listener placement, as well as the use of acoustic treatments (like bass traps and acoustic panels) to mitigate the effects of less-than-ideal room dimensions.
Striving for optimal room dimensions and understanding the acoustical characteristics of your space are crucial steps in achieving high-quality sound reproduction.
No doubts, room dimensions are critically important for good sound reproduction, especially for low frequencies. Nevertheless, if we have the limited space of variables, which fully determine the sound result, it means, that among possible room dimensions for known low frequencies source position (height) there are the best, the worst and medium sets of such a room dimensions. The best room dimensions set for low frequencies is understood like for having minimal spread for amplitude-frequency dependence in range 20 - 150 Hz. Corresponding to this thesis, we can have (or not!) so-called Acoustical Dimensions for this room. Bass traps or any equalizer devices impoverish bass sound and make sound brightless at all.
Yes, the impact of room dimensions on acoustics is crucial, but bass traps are valuable tools for managing problematic frequencies. They don’t necessarily "impoverish bass" but instead help to create a clearer, more accurate listening environment. However, the need for Bass Traps depends on the specific context in which you're using them. In some cases, a simple reduction in reverberation or rearranging your setup may be all that's necessary to achieve the desired sound in a room!
What do you recommend for a mounting height for diy panels mounted on the ceiling to mitigate noisy neighbors above? Would you recommend directly mounting to the ceiling or hung on chains? Also, do you have a room coverage recommendation for this application? I would rather error on the side of too much coverage. I am just really tired of noisy neighbors above us and would like to make a substantial investment now to ensure years of comfort. Thank you in advance.
Hi Sean, I’m sorry to say that there’s no perfect solution for completely eliminating the noise you’re experiencing. The most effective way to address this issue is to tackle it at the source.
Unless you can move, some level of noise will likely always be present - due to sound transmission coming through the building's structure.
You can (theoretically) reduce overall noise transfer by adding density and creating an air gap, but completely eliminating it is essentially impossible. Using “standard” acoustic panels or ceiling baffles is not necessarily the optimal solution for your specific situation. While they DO help reduce noise transmission coming from within a room, they are not as effective at stopping noise coming in from other rooms..
For a more custom tailored solution, we could design a high-density soundproofing baffle with plywood at its core, sound-absorbing material on both sides, and a sturdy frame. This would improve both density and absorption, possibly helping to lessen the perceived noise.
Another option is installing an acoustic drop ceiling with a grid system and acoustic insulation in the space above. This can be effective, especially in rooms with higher ceilings (over 9-10 feet). However, it can be quite costly and less ideal for lower ceilings.
I hope this helps you find a way to manage the noise issue effectively!
Best regards,
Jacob@NGAcoustics.com
I think you might be better off with ANC headphones or ear muffs rather than drop ceilings, or acoustic panel installations. You'd have to cover the whole roof in order to have absolutely no leakage in sound which is cost prohibitive.
You are referring to “sound transmission” which can only be mitigated with construction. “Sound absorption” (which is what the video is about) is about containing unwanted reflections inside of a room.