If you wanna build any kind of broadband absorbers use the porous absorber calculator, play with it! The thicker you go, the lower of a GFR you need your material to be. And yes, an air gap is very welcomed, but keep in mind that the "box" (the frame of your panel) should be closed off to the wall (not neccessarly sealed), this will improve your absorbtion coefficient which means more low frequency absorbtion for free.
First time hearing/reading this. Most commercial bass traps are not closed off I believe.. could you explain why it should be? Would be highly appreciated
@@anthonymuc If you close to box to the wall the absorbtion coefficient lowers itself, if you just space the entire panel from the wall that open airgap won't lower the coefficient that much. Just something I learned form John Brandt and asked him myself about sealed or not because I was confused too.
This technically is false. I don’t really care what specific guru’s advice that you follow. I know directly from the manufacturer itself, that when they do the coefficient data testing, they do two tests. (One flush to the wall and then another test 16 inches from the wall) Regardless of the material being used, this is a uniform standard across the field of acoustic absorption coefficient data testing. And regardless of the material used, whenever it has a 16 inch gap to the wall, it has a BETTER lower frequency absorption coefficient. This is well documented/proven scientific data. This also works as a double whammy allowing for corner straddled bass traps to ship using less weight/material, while providing a lower frequency absorption coefficient. We have made full corner bass traps as well as bass traps with the air gap and have had success with both styles. However, overall it’s going to largely depend on the room that you’re in, the dimensions of the room, the other Acoustic treatments within the space and what frequency problems you’re currently experiencing that determine whether or not you need a bass trap like you’re mentioning. More often than not, a corner straddled bass trap (with an air gap) is an EXCELLENT solution. 👍
@@NGAcoustics I never said that if you don’t close the box the coefficient will not lower. And I also never mentioned that an absorber with an air gap performes better than an absorber which has the whole box filled. A full panel vs a panel with a specific air gap should perform the same if calculated accordingly. My 50 cm deep panels have 40 cm of material with a 10 cm air gap because they would’ve perform the same if they were filled. My 30 cm deep panels are filled because, due to the GFR of the material I used, they would’ve been less efficient at that specific depth with an air gap.
@panickedrobert What I’m saying is that you’re wrong based off of countless tests, scientific data and easily provable/searchable data. You specifically said “closing in the bass trap would increase the frequency absorption coefficient…” Which is patently false and unproven.
I'm poor. can I stack a bunch of that fluffy pink insulation rolls stacked up high in my corners? then throw a huge black fabric drape over it. would that be effective at all? yes this insulation is "fluffy" however in these rolls they are packed VERY TIGHT. so the density is higher
Actually, I don’t think you should let anything get in your way of creating! Usually having some treatment(s) is better than no treatments whatsoever (even if it’s an “incorrect density” or not even “properly placed”) it can still yield positive results over no room treatments whatsoever… Below is another video of my personal recommendation of four things you can do if you cannot currently afford acoustical panels/treatments… hope it helps! 😎 ruclips.net/video/Ijqpj3dVmGk/видео.html
Hey i m in to new room the avilable space is A :: 15x21x10 WxLxH B::: 16x21x10 C:::: 17x21x10 Which one is good And there is no window etc only one door
Personally I would go for the 17 x 21 x 10! Another good option is to 16 x 21 x 10… But I would stay away from the 15 x 21 x 10… The dimensions with the least amount of square root numbers that can be used (between the various dimensions) the better overall!
It would be nice to know the exact material to purchase for making bass traps. Link? I already got a bunch of Owens Corning 703 fiberglass on order. But I’m still confused.
Awesome project! Sounds like you just need some good acoustic fabric and the materials to construct the frames at this point! Feel free to shoot me an email here: Jacob@NGAcoustics.com and I can guide you through the process. Here is a link where you can get the best quality acoustic fabrics in the game: www.ngacoustics.com/collections/acoustic-fabrics
Great explanation thx. So if I use compfortboad 80, which is 6 lbs 24" ×24" × 6" high should do well as bass trap and 3 lbs 16" × 48" × 3" for mid and frequency. Am I getting this right. Hope you can reply to my question thx.
So if the 16” air gap results in lower frequencies being attenuated I ask you this: if I’m building a tube trap and I want it to be an 18” diameter trap should I go for the 1.5” thick fiberglass or the 5” thick? The 1.5” right?
That is a really really good question! However… One factor that you’re not considering is that the density of the material being used ALSO determines the frequency absorption coefficient… So the main concern with that would be, that the 1.5in thickness material would not provide you enough “oomph” and density for it to effectively absorb the “lows” like you want it to. I think the ideal solution here (assuming your goal is low frequency attenuation) would be to build one closer to around 2ft diameter and then use the 5in thickness material instead! Hopefully that helps! Thanks for the question!!
Play around with a bucket and water and something to bob up and down in water you'll see placement of speaker is critical. Corners are not needed if you place sub correctly
Good insight! Yes SOMETIMES this is the case - however there are many times/scenarios when corner bass traps ARE actually needed, even if you DON’T have a sub! Ex. Smaller room, square/rectangular room, mastering/post production room etc. Most of this is obviously relative to what you’re doing within the space, the dimensions of the space and treatments that you currently have in there.
We don’t recommend. Check out this eye opening blog post that our acoustics specialist Tyler wrote that goes into detail comparing and contrasting the pros and cons of acoustic foams verses acoustic panels. www.nextgenerationacoustics.com/blogs/q-a/why-acoustic-foam-is-deadly-for-your-studio-or-venue
Listened, learned, subscribed!!
Awesome!! Glad it helped and thanks for the sub! Lots more to come..
This is the best explaination i've ever heard. Thank you so much.
Dude! That was EXCELLENT! So clear and so helpful. All the info I was wondering about. Thank you so much.
Incredible video. Thanks for sharing all this knowledge.
thanks for clearing things up
Hey man its Devin here. 😄
Love the channel bro. Keep it up.
If you wanna build any kind of broadband absorbers use the porous absorber calculator, play with it! The thicker you go, the lower of a GFR you need your material to be. And yes, an air gap is very welcomed, but keep in mind that the "box" (the frame of your panel) should be closed off to the wall (not neccessarly sealed), this will improve your absorbtion coefficient which means more low frequency absorbtion for free.
First time hearing/reading this. Most commercial bass traps are not closed off I believe.. could you explain why it should be? Would be highly appreciated
@@anthonymuc If you close to box to the wall the absorbtion coefficient lowers itself, if you just space the entire panel from the wall that open airgap won't lower the coefficient that much. Just something I learned form John Brandt and asked him myself about sealed or not because I was confused too.
This technically is false. I don’t really care what specific guru’s advice that you follow. I know directly from the manufacturer itself, that when they do the coefficient data testing, they do two tests. (One flush to the wall and then another test 16 inches from the wall) Regardless of the material being used, this is a uniform standard across the field of acoustic absorption coefficient data testing. And regardless of the material used, whenever it has a 16 inch gap to the wall, it has a BETTER lower frequency absorption coefficient. This is well documented/proven scientific data. This also works as a double whammy allowing for corner straddled bass traps to ship using less weight/material, while providing a lower frequency absorption coefficient. We have made full corner bass traps as well as bass traps with the air gap and have had success with both styles. However, overall it’s going to largely depend on the room that you’re in, the dimensions of the room, the other Acoustic treatments within the space and what frequency problems you’re currently experiencing that determine whether or not you need a bass trap like you’re mentioning. More often than not, a corner straddled bass trap (with an air gap) is an EXCELLENT solution. 👍
@@NGAcoustics I never said that if you don’t close the box the coefficient will not lower. And I also never mentioned that an absorber with an air gap performes better than an absorber which has the whole box filled. A full panel vs a panel with a specific air gap should perform the same if calculated accordingly. My 50 cm deep panels have 40 cm of material with a 10 cm air gap because they would’ve perform the same if they were filled. My 30 cm deep panels are filled because, due to the GFR of the material I used, they would’ve been less efficient at that specific depth with an air gap.
@panickedrobert What I’m saying is that you’re wrong based off of countless tests, scientific data and easily provable/searchable data. You specifically said “closing in the bass trap would increase the frequency absorption coefficient…” Which is patently false and unproven.
Thank you for the information I am looking for.
Glad I could help! 🤝
Thx , it was very informative.
I'm poor. can I stack a bunch of that fluffy pink insulation rolls stacked up high in my corners? then throw a huge black fabric drape over it. would that be effective at all?
yes this insulation is "fluffy" however in these rolls they are packed VERY TIGHT. so the density is higher
Actually, I don’t think you should let anything get in your way of creating! Usually having some treatment(s) is better than no treatments whatsoever (even if it’s an “incorrect density” or not even “properly placed”) it can still yield positive results over no room treatments whatsoever…
Below is another video of my personal recommendation of four things you can do if you cannot currently afford acoustical panels/treatments… hope it helps! 😎
ruclips.net/video/Ijqpj3dVmGk/видео.html
How does a rectangular corner bass trap with an air gap compare against a triangular superchunk that’s just fully rockwool?
Just seeing this! I’ll make a video covering this soon! Y’all make sure to subscribe and I’ll answer this one when I have a chance! 🤝✍️
@@NGAcoustics Thanks! 🙌🏾
Wonderful!
Im happy i found you, great content. Can you make something also for Diffusers?
Actually yes! I have a few different video topics on diffusion coming very soon.
Nice and clear info 💥
Glad it helped!! 🤙
Hey
i m in to new room the avilable space is
A :: 15x21x10 WxLxH
B::: 16x21x10
C:::: 17x21x10
Which one is good
And there is no window etc only one door
Personally I would go for the 17 x 21 x 10! Another good option is to 16 x 21 x 10… But I would stay away from the 15 x 21 x 10… The dimensions with the least amount of square root numbers that can be used (between the various dimensions) the better overall!
It would be nice to know the exact material to purchase for making bass traps. Link? I already got a bunch of Owens Corning 703 fiberglass on order. But I’m still confused.
Awesome project! Sounds like you just need some good acoustic fabric and the materials to construct the frames at this point! Feel free to shoot me an email here: Jacob@NGAcoustics.com and I can guide you through the process. Here is a link where you can get the best quality acoustic fabrics in the game:
www.ngacoustics.com/collections/acoustic-fabrics
Fiber glass does nothing for bass traps
Great explanation thx.
So if I use compfortboad 80, which is 6 lbs 24" ×24" × 6" high should do well as bass trap and 3 lbs 16" × 48" × 3" for mid and frequency. Am I getting this right.
Hope you can reply to my question thx.
Actually, yes!
No
So if the 16” air gap results in lower frequencies being attenuated I ask you this: if I’m building a tube trap and I want it to be an 18” diameter trap should I go for the 1.5” thick fiberglass or the 5” thick? The 1.5” right?
That is a really really good question! However… One factor that you’re not considering is that the density of the material being used ALSO determines the frequency absorption coefficient…
So the main concern with that would be, that the 1.5in thickness material would not provide you enough “oomph” and density for it to effectively absorb the “lows” like you want it to. I think the ideal solution here (assuming your goal is low frequency attenuation) would be to build one closer to around 2ft diameter and then use the 5in thickness material instead! Hopefully that helps! Thanks for the question!!
cool dude
Play around with a bucket and water and something to bob up and down in water you'll see placement of speaker is critical. Corners are not needed if you place sub correctly
Good insight! Yes SOMETIMES this is the case - however there are many times/scenarios when corner bass traps ARE actually needed, even if you DON’T have a sub!
Ex. Smaller room, square/rectangular room, mastering/post production room etc. Most of this is obviously relative to what you’re doing within the space, the dimensions of the space and treatments that you currently have in there.
So dont use the cheap foam?
We don’t recommend. Check out this eye opening blog post that our acoustics specialist Tyler wrote that goes into detail comparing and contrasting the pros and cons of acoustic foams verses acoustic panels.
www.nextgenerationacoustics.com/blogs/q-a/why-acoustic-foam-is-deadly-for-your-studio-or-venue
Pro