Your a smart man sir, and a credit to our trade. I really get tired of hearing so many people say they have been treated poorly or or fleeced out of their money by scumbags calling themselves mechanics. Thank you for being an example of what a good mechanic is like.
Wow! That went so easy. Thanks for your help. Took maybe a minute to change the pump seal and gasket. The soft mallet is the easiest way to remove pump. As long as you know what you are doing. I accounted for all the orange seal peices. So confident nothing I did hurt the transmission. Again Thank you.
Hi Gary love the video I’ve got a 94 F150 E40D with a hard shift 1-2 and a hard shift 2-3 I watched another video talking about the broken springs in the modulator valve, you mentioned the switch could cause hard shifting also. I’m glad you mentioned that switch that’s much easier than the modulator springs I’m doing the switch First thanks!
So Gary, it blew the seal out because it was the wrong seal. The trans lost its fluid and the customer stopped driving it. The customer had no complaints of any other issues, aside from the leak. You dismantle the trans finding only a thrust washer missing a locator. My question is , why didn't you remove the pan and inspect for metal and fluid condition and simply install a correct seal and run it?
This video is really helpful Gary. Thanks for showing this. I'd really love to see the follow up to this teardown and follow the rebuild. I'm currently trying to diagnose an issue with the E4OD in my 91 bronco with an BW1356 transfer case. Thanks again!
The transmission is leaking a trail of fluid out of the front. I've been told that it may have overheated. But the fluid level is fine according to the dipstick and the fluid doesn't smell burned at all. It's very strange.
+Gary Ferraro I am having a similar problem with mine. It does not leak when under normal driving, but as soon as I put any load on it, say a sport quad behind it, it starts puking out the front of the tranny. Any ideas?
Pete Woolley Your problem is probably with the front seal peeling back when hot, Threre is a certain seal that was used and i dont believe its an OE seal, when towing the trans will get hot, when that happens the seal will peel back, it will leak like crazy, but when cool it will be ok. What year is your vehicle? Gary
Hello Mr Gary thanks for taking the time to do such a great job with your work and showing others, i rebuilt my 1995 E4OD Transmission and when i put it in reverse it locks up and engine shuts off. What might be the problem you think, if you dont mind me asking Thanks
Hello you have such awesome videos. I was wondering if you ever have time can u do a complete rebuild of the e40d transmission. If not I understand. But your videos are awesome
Transmission does 1st gear good and the trans to shift to 2nd and seems to locks up and the rear wheels lock up till almost stopped then it’ll just happen all over again
Hi Gary, I enjoy watching Ur Videos, they are very informative, my question is, would it be possible to make a video of the complete assembly of the E4OD, would like to see the instalation of the overdrive section, we have to assemble this section complete on the bench don't we, otherwise we bend the clutches and it will not go back together. Thanks Mark
Yes, the o/d section has to be assembled on the bench. I will keep that in mind, currently i do not have an E4OD in the shop. Its not that bad to assemble, if you have any questions just let me know. Gary
Gary, I have an E4OD not shifting into 3rd or 4th OD , in a 1990 E-350 351. First and second are good and reverse is great. doesnt shift passed 2nd when in drive, just neutrals out and starts to rev unless i floor it, then it just runs the limiter. but refuses to shift. Drives and responds to throttle fine with gear lever in lower levels 1 and 2. Thank you a ton in advanced.
Gary Ferraro I recently purchased this vehicle. The fluid isn’t fully determined. I’ve cycled some of the fluid out after I found a leak in the hardline of the radiator/trans cooler. But when I dropped the pan to check the valves there definitely wasn’t enough fluid in it. I haven’t had the opportunity to add fluid yet and make sure it’s at the proper level. Every time I’ve added fluid I had to wait till the next day to check the level because after adding to the filler tube it seems like it has too much fluid but I think that’s from scrapping the walls of the tube as the dip stick feeds in. Cause when I check it the next day running in park it doesn’t show any fluid on the dip stick. Compared to it seeming too full the day before
The fluid was still red. Not extremey dark. When I dropped the pan no large chunks of metal on the magnet. Just some fuzz which seemed pretty moderate for the vehicle age
@@SchlongVelez When filling these the fluid has to sit for a while then recheck. If this ran low on fluid, may have damaged the clutch packs, fill it and see how it works
Trans is not shifting when it gets hot. Its fine when your driving but once you stop and the truck sits for 10 to 15 mins and heats up it will not shift out of first, If you shift it manually and let the converter lock up and drive it a bit to get some heat out of it, it will shift fine. ( it will not shift into third gear) the trans does not slip at all.It in a 1994 F350 2wd with a 7.3 power stroke. Thanks Rick Dechau
you mentioned that the snap ring that holds the o/d piston likes to pop out. what symptoms would you expect if that snap ring does pop out? Loss of o/d? Great videos, keep up the good work!
Actually, it would still work, the clutch clearance is alittle on the tighter side so everything kinda stays in place, lots of times we get the jobs in for other reasons and when taking the trans apart i find the snap ring out, so i put a transgo shift kit in everyone, a spiral snap ring comes in the kit for the 4th piston, that doesnt pop out. Thanks for watching
What a great video! Thanks for taking the time to do it! We're considering buying a 97 F250 4WD w/an E4OD. It's automatic. When accelerating up a hill, it will shift out of drive into neutral. After this happens, if you put it in 2nd and then to drive, it will make a smooth transition. It has high RPMs when shifting into 2nd. It does this hot or cold. It's a good truck except for this. My hubby is considering buying it and knows it could be something less serious (solenoid pack, transmission fluid/leak, etc), but it would be great to be more sure of whether he'll need to rebuild. Any thoughts as to what the problem might be? The guy is driving the truck in this condition the last week or so, which is a concern too. Thanks!!
First thing to check is fluid level, also if you know someone that has a scan tool, you should have it scanned to see if any transmission codes are present.
My 94' F250 7.5l did the same thing for a few weeks despite correct fluid level then finally I lost all forward gears. But I was having erradic shifting for a few years anyways, but guess it had enough. I am in the process of a complete rebuild and shift upgrade.
What pliers did you use to removed the rear output snap ring. I am currently on this step and having a darn time getting that ring off. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
What's that part you hammer out name? At time of 14:00. On my 92' ford f150 is leaking from there. I need to replace that part. That's pretty cool that you hammer walk it out. I just need to know the part name.....
I understand if you don't want to be too specific, Gary, but where are you located? We've got a '97 F250 Extended Cab 4x4 with a 7.3L Diesel and the E40D. When babied, the transmission shifts smoothly. Any other time, an audible hum is apparent and the shift from 3rd to 4th is slow. The truck sat idle for a year awaiting funds for an electrical repair, so I'd like to know if the idle time might have had a negative effect, and also I'd like to know if you think that a fluid and filter change might have any negative effects? Thank you very much for your time...
+Timberwright Svs Hello, Im located in new york on long island. Servicing the trans cant hurt but if there is an internal issue(mechanical) it wont help. Sitting around shouldnt really hurt anything just make sure fluid is full before you drive it. Gary Thanks for watching
Gary. 92 f150 e4od shifts from 1st to 4th immediately and also no kick down. Pulled pan. No metal. Replaced solenoid pack and checked vb thoroughly. No luck with scanner but check engine light gives me a 633 code. I unplugged the transfer case and it seemed to do better but still erratic shifts.. thinking of changing PCM next. Any ideas greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Check the status of the 4WD Low wire, look at a scan tool to see the state of the wire, the wire maybe grounded. If the computer thinks it's in 4WD low it will upshift quickly
Hi Gary very good video, im planing to rebuild my friend a4od trans, i been doing 4l60e now i want to do his what tips you can give me and if i can install a transgo shift kit or if a need to install any updated part on the trans???? thanks...
Thank you so much for posting these awesome videos! This video (along with the ATSG manual) was extremely helpful in tearing down my E4OD. I've rebuilt a few other transmission, but this is the first Ford for me. I recently acquired a free '96 F-250 4X4 7.5L from a friend. The PO ran it low on fluid and it had absolutely no forward movement. After topping off the fluid to the proper level, reverse worked perfectly with no abnormal noise. After teardown, I found the inner splines on the forward planetary had been completely stripped out by the output shaft. Output shaft seems fine as does everything else on the trans. All the clutches, bushings, and bearings look good, although I'll replace all clutches and seals anyways while I have it apart. I've ordered an all steel 6-pinion forward planet kit to replace the stripped 4-pinion one. Any ideas on what might have caused the splines to strip out? I'd hate to put it all back together and have it fail again. Thank you in advance!
@@GaryFerraro Thanks so much for the quick response! Yes it was aluminum and I've already ordered a heavy duty steel 6-pinion replacement, as well as a hardened sun gear shell (old one had light cracking as you described in your video). This truck will be used for towing and hauling. Anything else I should consider upgrading?
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the advice! I'll report back when I get the truck back on the road hopefully in a few weeks. Also shot it the dark here, but do you have a relative named Pete? My high school wood shop teacher in California was from New York, and if I recall correctly his name was Pete Ferraro. And you guys have an uncanny resemblance, demeanor, and similar sounding voices.
Just tore it down. Some clutches burned band worn pump bushing wiped out. Forward drum scored from band. Gonna just clean it and let local atra certified shop rebuild it. Thanks
Gary, Your E40D tear down video was really informative. I was told that these trans took a lot of different tools to work on them. But by your video I didn't see anything special at all? I searched your RUclips channel and I don't see a reassembly video or a video about the shift kit you talked about. Are you going to make either of these videos? Thanks, Paul
How you are supposed to take the pump out is use 2 of the extension housing bolts and screw them into the only 2 treaded holes in the pump. Then use anything, I use a seal puller, and work it out. Takes about a minute and you don't have to beat the shit out of your input shaft.
+Gary Ferraro I am currently rebuilding an e4od for my f350. Trying to get the snap ring on the output shaft is killing me. Wondering if I put the wrong bearing in the bottom. Is there a thinner one that looks the same?
Howdy. The old truck is up and running with the E40D. How do I check line pressure? Just want to know everything is perfect. Before I start abusing it.
Gary,I appreciate your video,it has helped me alot.I have a 92 f350 diesel with e4od.its leaking at front seal.can i remove just the pump to replace it.Do I have to do anything with the bands.or anything else.
+DerrickIngr Ingram If its just leaking from the front seal, you dont even have to remove the pump, if the seal is a grey in color, those seals are a problem, get a seal from the ford dealer, should be black rubber. I actually have a video segment i did not put on my channel yet, but i go over the front seal in the unit. It pretty common for the seal to leak, after you knock the seal out make sure the bushing is ok, if all looks good just knock in a new front seal. How does the truck shift? hopefully you didnt run too low on fluid to burn the clutches. Thanks for watching, please subscribe. Gary
Gary I have a 94 Bronco that will only move in drive. I was coming home the other night everything was working fine. I stopped at a stoplight and when I started to drive it was very sluggish I tried shifting manually down to 1st or 2nd and it got much worse . It will move in Drive but no other gear or very little in any other gear. Reverse also does not work. Just looking to get some inside of what might be wrong. I'm assuming I need to pull the transmission and have it rebuilt. Thanks for any help you can give. Mike
Me again 3 years later. Well things were good. But I screwed up. It shifted hard. If I didn't warm it up. And took off like a mad man. And bam shifting into 3rd. Then nothing. No forward or reverse gears. And no computer code thrown. I'm assuming something major broke. Thoughts on what?
@@ReverseGear Well if this stopped all of a sudden then sure seems like something broke, if the pump is ok, then it's very possible the O/D planet stripped or broke(the input shaft fits into the O/D Planet or something may have happened to torque converter, you said you had the pan down and it looks clean? Any noises when car is in or out of gear?
What do you use to seal the transmission side of the lower trans dipstick tube with on a 97 f350 powerstroke with an e40d trans? It is smooth and has no indented ring for an oring to fit in like the upper tube does where it fits into the lower tube, its just smooth and so is the hole in the trans also.
What was the estimated cost for this rebuild? I have a 1993 Ford E250 Coachman camper van that lost all fluids from the bell housing. I have low income so I am not sure if it's worth trying to have it rebuilt or should it be replaced with a rebuild one. I believe it is the E4OD. I am located in southern NJ. How do you locate a reputable shop to do this work ? it looks like an expert like you is needed. I am homeless now without my camper van. Lost my house to foreclosure and was living in campgrounds until the truck broke down. Will this rebuild cost thousands of dollars? It was towed to the ford dealer but they said the part that it needed was obsolete and they don't use aftermarket parts and that the estimate to repair was above $3500. They wanted to replace the tans with a rebuilt one. I assume it was that front seal that you first removed. Any suggestions for me would be helpful.
I have an E4OD in a 1990 F150 that only goes into reverse. We resealed the transmission and replaced the torque converter. We dropped the pan and it had no accumulation of residual metal. Would this be a pump issue or more likely a band / gear issue. Ive rebuilt engines before, but never a transmission. This is my daughter's truck and I am reluctantly going to fix this for her lol Thanks for the video and assistance in advance
No, it won't move in 1st gear. I've ordered the rebuild manual mentioned further down in the comments. We are going to have to acquire the replacement parts a little at a time if it is extensive.
You may have an issue with the foward clutch drum, which is located in the center of the trans, the valvebody will have to be removed because there are center support bolts that have to come out in order for the support to be removed, Behind the center support are the clutch drums for foward and direct, the direct drum is the one with the band around it, the foward drum is the other. Gary
I have a 92 7.5L E4OD and I know the case is bad. I also have a rebuildable 95 7.5L E4OD, can I use the 95 case and place it into the 92? I understand there is a difference with solenoid body plugs and possibly a difference with the check ball amount and location?
Doing some research, looks like the check balls are the same from 1990 to 1995. Looks like valvebody gaskets are the same, solenoid pack is different but its the connector. have to talk to my supplier about the case
So long as the check balls are the same I believe that using the solenoid pack from the 92 in the 95 case should be fine? I Have to use the 92 solenoid pack to ensure compatibility with the 92 truck? At any rate, thank you for the reply and any further help you provide. I loved the video and hope you do more.
+rody resquin da silva If you have no foward, i would think you have an issue with your foward clutch pack, replacing the solenoid block wont fix the problem. Gary
I like the video lost of info, I do have a question I have a 89 F350, 460 E40D, when I got the truck it had sat up for about 4 years, and I got it running and it was shifting hard from 1 to 2, previous owner said it all ways did that, so I keep driving, know it won't shift at all, I can manually shift from 1st, to 2ed, and that's it no more gears, so I parked, 2 mouths later I got in and it was doing the same, but I went to park it and something popped and it started shifting, and 4 days later it went back to not shifting, I did change filter and fluid, no change any help is greatly appreciated, and God Bless.
+Donald Jacobson The best first step is to read the codes from the PCM, which is the computer which controls the E4OD. Considering your unit's symptoms, there should be error codes concerning them stored within the PCM's memory.
Hi gary i love your watching your videos on your youtube channel. I Own a 96 f150 with a 5.0 liter 302 engine. When i make a u turn either the torque convertor is starting to fail or first gear is starting to fail. What is the best way to determine if it is my torque convertor or first gear that is starting to fail?
where is your shop I have two e4ods from 7.3diesel one only goes in reverse and the other is smooth in first and second slams into third and immediately goes to fourth doesn't want to shift back down unless manually done. problems ! I liked and subd
San Diego , about as far away as possible as i could of been .. but i love the video thanks Gary they have so many rebuild kits for e4od which do you recommend?
Does the pump rotate at a constant speed as compared to a decrease or increase in engine rpms? Or does the pump rpm's vary along with engine rpm's? I have (92 Ford F150 E40D) with a pump sounding low pitched noise (actually sounds like the water pump on my small RV) at low engine rpm's (idle).
thanks for the video. I have a 94 bronco xlt. the problem I'm having is it shifts hard in all gears with a occasional second gear slip. I ran dtc and got the 628 code exessive tourque converter clutch slippage. my question is. Is this a problem that can be fix with out a full rebuild or would I have to rebuild it? it is a E4OD 5.8L gas engine electronic shift transfercase. the other question I have is. if it can be fixed with out a full rebuild what is the problem and how do I fix it?
+Andrew Galyk Andrew, i never did a repair on an E4OD with a 628 code, But normally the problem lies in the front part of the transmission. The converter could be bad,your pump and/or pump bushings, worn pump gears. Either way the trans would have to come out. Also, if the trans comes in with that code i always install a transgo shift kit which helps address converter problems. Question, The M.L.P.S switch(manual lever position sensor) or neutral switch, do you know if it was ever updated to the lastest style, sometimes when they are bad it can cause hard shifts in every gear without setting a code for a bad switch. Gary
+Gary Ferraro thanks for the info. it helps. to answer your questions I don't know if it had been updated. how can you tell if it has been up dated? what is the repair procedure for replacing that switch?
Andrew Galyk The old style switch wire harness is held down by 2 clips,one on each side, the new style switch wire harness is held down by one clip right in the front center of the switch. To update the switch, the wire harness has to be rewired so it will be able to plug in to the new style switch. Little tricky to do. Gary
I know this video is old its very helpful i have a 95 e40d i changed filter and refilled fluid now it only shifts reverse first and second it was shifting fine before no codes no flashing overdrive what would be the cause? I used mercon v if you are still around any suggestions?
Ugh doesn't give me hope for my e4od trans in my 1990 F250... it overheated and was puking fluid from front seal, I let it cool filled it back with fluid checked once restarted and not leaking so had to finish towing trailer took it easier the rest of 40 miles and once got it where I needed it checked and was dripping fluid this time but not completely out of fliud... so I know atleast have to replace the front seal girlfriend and I should be able to do that problem is possibly other damage and we too strapped financially to completely rebuild and that might be out of our abilities to take on complete rebuild so what should we check to make sure we not wasting more time then needed on a junk trans also trans has always shifted late and a bit hard when we got it usually stop and go traffic and cold but does a little better once I drained 1 gallon of excess trans fluid and adjusted kickdown cable... any guidance would be appreciated hoping to save truck as we cant afford to replace and it doesn't get used much but is still needed working good enough
Well, with the correct amount of fluid it works ok when not leaking? Is there anyone who can scan the car for codes to make sure no converter slip codes are present
@@GaryFerraro still acts up with proper fluid just not as bad. Occasionally the check engine light flashes after harder acceleration and then letting off or slowing down thought it was ignition issues but after checking plugs, wires, replacing plugs and coil even though truck runs smoother still happens just not as often, as far as getting someone to scan no not without spending $159+ or buying the odb1 scan tool... could jumper wire and read flashes possibly but have to get check engine light to come on and stay on to read the code
@@stevesherman3966 Not sure if a jumper wire can flash the light for the codes. How did the pan look when you changed the filteror did you not have the pan down. Where are you located?
@@GaryFerraro I havent changed the filter or gasket yet I have parts but need to pickup a helicoil and proper replacement bolt for the trans pan as someone previous jammed non standard bolt in so just wanted to have parts on hand before tearing into it at all the front seal just makes it worse for how long we will have to have it apart and more parts, I'm anticipating needing to clean valve bodies and shift solenoid but uneasy about that
Uneasy because we wont exactly be setup to take trans fully out of truck and I dont want to lose springs or the steel ball bearings used as for check valves
My 96 7.3 locks up as soon as it shifts into 3rd and it has to shift in and out bc it’s only running 1100 at 25 which is the most common speed limit in my town can this be fixed is something wrong
I have a 94 f150 4x4 has the 351 in it i have replaced trans 3 times every time it goes out it blows front main seal any idea why it keeps doing this contemplating selling of cant find a solution
+Gary Ferraro I got a 97 F250HD 4x4 that started shifting real hard and when you come to a stop in gear it tries to stall the engine. I pulled a P1724 Auto Trans Slip code from it. Am I looking at a rebuild or is this a sensor???
I have a question between the forward and direct drum your showing a four tab washer but the diagram is showing a 2 tab washer. I have a two and a four but im thinking one of the fours should have went on the first planetary cuz im showing two there that I'm seeing now. Did someone mess up rebuilding it before or is your model different than mine? part 78 in the diagram at natpronet.com/trans/E4od-4r100.pdf
@@GaryFerraro thank you for the reply it shifts perfect when it’s cold , I’ll put a pressure gauge on it then drive it and see what it reads when it doesn’t shift to overdrive thanks
Hello Gary ! Greetings for the day... I'm a subscriber from India and I'm facing some issues with my skoda superb b6 make 2 2009 . I needed some guidance with the DSG7 automatic transmission...the car is is not moving and the gear indicators in cluster metre are just blinking...please help me solve the problem
I have a 93 e40d that Is bucking with light acceleration recently had the pump seal come off after rebuild and replaced it on my own.what internals do you think could have been damaged?should I get another rebuild?
Only upon slight acceleration after I give it a little more it will stop but it will also do it on the highway after coast with light aceleration? I know you the ttans guy but do you think it may be a fuel delivery issue possibly I haven't had any problems with fuel just a possibility maybe?
The motor and trans were both rebuilt but only after the pump seal came out and I removed the trans to replace the seal. I think it may have damaged internals like you said.
Would it be a bad idea to remove the pump just to change the large outer pump seal. I worry about it leaking after I swap the transmission. The C6 it is replacing was leaking at that area.
Ok, just be careful of the overdrive section which is right behind the pump. When the pump gets reinstalled after its tight make sure the input shaft turns(feel how it turns before you pull out the pump) Gary
Gary Ferraro I have not taken the tail shaft off myself. I took it to a shop and they said replace the transmission. Few weeks before that started happening it would make a grinding noise as if a bad u joint but it ran fine. As soon as the grinding and clunking went away completely it started tearing up the plastic gear on sensor. 21 teeth it is.
hi, Gary thks for this video. I have a 93' Bronco 4x4 ...can you tell me the best overhaul kit to buy..want something that will last. Also someone told me Borg-Warner makes the best friction plates? please give your input thks
The best kit to buy is an overhaul kit by the company TransTec, thats OE quality, Where are you located, if you need parts i can hook you up with my supplier
Yes, i would hook you up with my rep, he also has am 800 number. He can ship the parts to you. On the E4OD's I always put a transgo shift kit. My supplier has good stuff
Let me just run it by him, i also have to get his 800 number for, i just hit the speed dial to get him on the phone, shouldnt be a problem though, i will get his E-mail as well
+Hollis Smith Actually they are different, the surface of the clutch and teeth of the clutch on certain frictons in the 4r100 are different. Steels are pretty much the same.
Hello when I changed safety neutral switch on a 94 f150 . that the lever on the transmission I can't seem to move it to change gears what could cause this ?Thank you.
ok, disconnect the shifter cable and see if the shifter moves, if it doesn't you may have moved the lever to far and will have to drop the pan to put it back in place
Good evening sir, i have a 94 f150 4x4 5.0 have a really delayed shift in ny e4od from first to second. Its a rebuilt trans ordered through advanced auto. Just tryin to get the truck to shift correctly and to operate as it should. Any ideas or help would be highly appreciated.
Gary Ferraro will do sir, changing the power steering out to one that works in the morning. So i should manually start out in second and then bump it to drive??
Gary Ferraro ok so got the power steering pump in it today took it out drove til it shifts from at almost 25 to 28 mph dropped to second and second gear does drive even from dead stop i have second gear
+Gary Ferraro when I got it it started to leak transmission fluid so I put the Lucas transmission leak stop and it worked for two days and then everything came out of it soul we sealed up the torque converter because that's where it was leaking from and we put it back and we filled it up with transmission fluid and it worked like for 15 minutes and then after that it just wouldn't run
In the future brother think about eyes on your work. You might as well be crackin walnuts. Id rather HEAR YOU , BUT BE ABLE TO SEE WHAT YOU ARE DOING. I'm all the way down to the last few parts. But saw most of everythi g from the guy with the orange gloves. But he talks about his other VEEDEOS TO MUCH. NO offense but SEEING IS AS GOOD AS HANDS ON FOR ME. MINE HAS A SPRING THAT POPPED OUT at the 9 checkball point. PLUS a single steel check ball fell out when I tipped it and have no clue from where.
The spring and check ball go together, spring first and the steel check ball on top of the spring. My e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com Send me an e-mail and i can send you some info on where the ball and spring goes.
Possible slipping torque converter, with the exhaust back pressure, it may be running hotter than normal, make sure your cat is not clogged. Do you feel it has a lack of power?
LOL, Been having trouble posting my replies, keep getting a message "comment failed to post" so what ive been doing is just typing a letter to see if it will post, then i edit and put my reply. I would answer the questions, and it wouldnt post my answer, sometimes my answers are lenghty. Gary
I like the video lost of info, I do have a question I have a 89 F350, 460 E40D, when I got the truck it had sat up for about 4 years, and I got it running and it was shifting hard from 1 to 2, previous owner said it all ways did that, so I keep driving, know it won't shift at all, I can manually shift from 1st, to 2ed, and that's it no more gears, so I parked, 2 mouths later I got in and it was doing the same, but I went to park it and something popped and it started shifting, and 4 days later it went back to not shifting, I did change filter and fluid, no change any help is greatly appreciated, and God Bless.
Your a smart man sir, and a credit to our trade. I really get tired of hearing so many people say they have been treated poorly or or fleeced out of their money by scumbags calling themselves mechanics. Thank you for being an example of what a good mechanic is like.
Thank you, do the right thing and will always come back to you
Wow! That went so easy. Thanks for your help. Took maybe a minute to change the pump seal and gasket. The soft mallet is the easiest way to remove pump. As long as you know what you are doing. I accounted for all the orange seal peices. So confident nothing I did hurt the transmission. Again Thank you.
Glad to hear all went well, thanks for letting me know. Gary
I didn't think U would answer me!!! Thank U very much for the info, great to have U there with all the answers. Mark Mason
Mark, Your Welcome. I try to make it a point to answer all questions that come in. Gary
Hi Gary love the video I’ve got a 94 F150 E40D with a hard shift 1-2 and a hard shift 2-3 I watched another video talking about the broken springs in the modulator valve, you mentioned the switch could cause hard shifting also. I’m glad you mentioned that switch that’s much easier than the modulator springs I’m doing the switch First thanks!
So Gary, it blew the seal out because it was the wrong seal. The trans lost its fluid and the customer stopped driving it. The customer had no complaints of any other issues, aside from the leak. You dismantle the trans finding only a thrust washer missing a locator. My question is , why didn't you remove the pan and inspect for metal and fluid condition and simply install a correct seal and run it?
Owner of the truck really wanted it done, guess he didn't trust who worked on it last and of course he needs it for his business
This video is really helpful Gary. Thanks for showing this. I'd really love to see the follow up to this teardown and follow the rebuild. I'm currently trying to diagnose an issue with the E4OD in my 91 bronco with an BW1356 transfer case.
Thanks again!
+J LeConte Thanks for watching, What is the problem with the bronco Gary
The transmission is leaking a trail of fluid out of the front. I've been told that it may have overheated. But the fluid level is fine according to the dipstick and the fluid doesn't smell burned at all. It's very strange.
Question, does the car need to be hot before it starts leaking? Gary
+Gary Ferraro I am having a similar problem with mine. It does not leak when under normal driving, but as soon as I put any load on it, say a sport quad behind it, it starts puking out the front of the tranny. Any ideas?
Pete Woolley Your problem is probably with the front seal peeling back when hot, Threre is a certain seal that was used and i dont believe its an OE seal, when towing the trans will get hot, when that happens the seal will peel back, it will leak like crazy, but when cool it will be ok. What year is your vehicle? Gary
Hello Mr Gary
thanks for taking the time to do such a great job with your work and showing others, i rebuilt my 1995 E4OD Transmission and when i put it in reverse it locks up and engine shuts off. What might be the problem you think, if you dont mind me asking Thanks
14:00 I don't want to force anything... Grabs hammer starts whacking. 😋 Great video thanks!
lol was walking the pump out
Hello you have such awesome videos. I was wondering if you ever have time can u do a complete rebuild of the e40d transmission. If not I understand. But your videos are awesome
Thank you, i will keep that in mind. It is very hard for me to do rebuild videos but if i get one and have time with it i sure will
Transmission does 1st gear good and the trans to shift to 2nd and seems to locks up and the rear wheels lock up till almost stopped then it’ll just happen all over again
Hi Gary, I enjoy watching Ur Videos, they are very informative, my question is, would it be possible to make a video of the complete assembly of the E4OD, would like to see the instalation of the overdrive section, we have to assemble this section complete on the bench don't we, otherwise we bend the clutches and it will not go back together. Thanks Mark
Yes, the o/d section has to be assembled on the bench. I will keep that in mind, currently i do not have an E4OD in the shop. Its not that bad to assemble, if you have any questions just let me know. Gary
Awesome Video, I need to see the one where you put it back together.
Thanks Randy, will keep that in mind, Happy Holidays
Happy Holidays to you. Cheers bud
hi what do u have to do to put a 4buy 4 in a 2 wheel drive
Gary, I have an E4OD not shifting into 3rd or 4th OD , in a 1990 E-350 351. First and second are good and reverse is great. doesnt shift passed 2nd when in drive, just neutrals out and starts to rev unless i floor it, then it just runs the limiter. but refuses to shift. Drives and responds to throttle fine with gear lever in lower levels 1 and 2. Thank you a ton in advanced.
ok, if it seems like it goes to neutral when shifting to 3rd, sounds like the direct clutches are no good. What is the condition of the fluid?
Gary Ferraro I recently purchased this vehicle. The fluid isn’t fully determined. I’ve cycled some of the fluid out after I found a leak in the hardline of the radiator/trans cooler. But when I dropped the pan to check the valves there definitely wasn’t enough fluid in it. I haven’t had the opportunity to add fluid yet and make sure it’s at the proper level. Every time I’ve added fluid I had to wait till the next day to check the level because after adding to the filler tube it seems like it has too much fluid but I think that’s from scrapping the walls of the tube as the dip stick feeds in. Cause when I check it the next day running in park it doesn’t show any fluid on the dip stick. Compared to it seeming too full the day before
The fluid was still red. Not extremey dark. When I dropped the pan no large chunks of metal on the magnet. Just some fuzz which seemed pretty moderate for the vehicle age
Can see a 1minute video of the valve body showing the color of the fluid. instagram.com/p/Bzl6IcrHAUe/?igshid=2jbwzk0o52yv
@@SchlongVelez When filling these the fluid has to sit for a while then recheck. If this ran low on fluid, may have damaged the clutch packs, fill it and see how it works
Trans is not shifting when it gets hot. Its fine when your driving but once you stop and the truck sits for 10 to 15 mins and heats up it will not shift out of first, If you shift it manually and let the converter lock up and drive it a bit to get some heat out of it, it will shift fine. ( it will not shift into third gear) the trans does not slip at all.It in a 1994 F350 2wd with a 7.3 power stroke. Thanks Rick Dechau
Rick, Question, how is reverse cold and hot, any problem?
Reverse works ok. It hesitates a few seconds before it goes in gear.
Do you have any codes present for the trans?
gary thank you for a great video as always
how can you remember were all the parts go when you put it back together,wow!
Thanks for watching, im rebuilding a long time. Happy Holidays
you mentioned that the snap ring that holds the o/d piston likes to pop out. what symptoms would you expect if that snap ring does pop out? Loss of o/d?
Great videos, keep up the good work!
Actually, it would still work, the clutch clearance is alittle on the tighter side so everything kinda stays in place, lots of times we get the jobs in for other reasons and when taking the trans apart i find the snap ring out, so i put a transgo shift kit in everyone, a spiral snap ring comes in the kit for the 4th piston, that doesnt pop out. Thanks for watching
What a great video! Thanks for taking the time to do it! We're considering buying a 97 F250 4WD w/an E4OD. It's automatic. When accelerating up a hill, it will shift out of drive into neutral. After this happens, if you put it in 2nd and then to drive, it will make a smooth transition. It has high RPMs when shifting into 2nd. It does this hot or cold. It's a good truck except for this. My hubby is considering buying it and knows it could be something less serious (solenoid pack, transmission fluid/leak, etc), but it would be great to be more sure of whether he'll need to rebuild. Any thoughts as to what the problem might be? The guy is driving the truck in this condition the last week or so, which is a concern too. Thanks!!
First thing to check is fluid level, also if you know someone that has a scan tool, you should have it scanned to see if any transmission codes are present.
My 94' F250 7.5l did the same thing for a few weeks despite correct fluid level then finally I lost all forward gears. But I was having erradic shifting for a few years anyways, but guess it had enough. I am in the process of a complete rebuild and shift upgrade.
What pliers did you use to removed the rear output snap ring. I am currently on this step and having a darn time getting that ring off. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a pair of 90 Degree snap ring pilers, the tips are bent
What's that part you hammer out name? At time of 14:00. On my 92' ford f150 is leaking from there. I need to replace that part. That's pretty cool that you hammer walk it out. I just need to know the part name.....
That is the pump, what is probably leaking is the front seal, that can be changed without pulling the pump out
I understand if you don't want to be too specific, Gary, but where are you located? We've got a '97 F250 Extended Cab 4x4 with a 7.3L Diesel and the E40D. When babied, the transmission shifts smoothly. Any other time, an audible hum is apparent and the shift from 3rd to 4th is slow. The truck sat idle for a year awaiting funds for an electrical repair, so I'd like to know if the idle time might have had a negative effect, and also I'd like to know if you think that a fluid and filter change might have any negative effects? Thank you very much for your time...
+Timberwright Svs Hello, Im located in new york on long island. Servicing the trans cant hurt but if there is an internal issue(mechanical) it wont help. Sitting around shouldnt really hurt anything just make sure fluid is full before you drive it. Gary Thanks for watching
i know this isn't the place to ask this, but i reinstalled the shafter that goes into the pump and it is not coming back out. any ideas?
Great video!!! I have an early 99 F350 2wd with an E4OD. Is the trans the same as the 94 E4OD you show the teardown?
They are very similar but they are not the same
Awesome teardown. Thank you
Jay Bisky thanks for watching
Do your research before getting into the trans, take it slow, i used to do one drum at a time back in the day
I have the same tool cart. Great box. I love mine.
Yes, me too. Thanks for watching
Gary. 92 f150 e4od shifts from 1st to 4th immediately and also no kick down. Pulled pan. No metal. Replaced solenoid pack and checked vb thoroughly. No luck with scanner but check engine light gives me a 633 code. I unplugged the transfer case and it seemed to do better but still erratic shifts.. thinking of changing PCM next. Any ideas greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Check the status of the 4WD Low wire, look at a scan tool to see the state of the wire, the wire maybe grounded. If the computer thinks it's in 4WD low it will upshift quickly
Hi Gary very good video, im planing to rebuild my friend a4od trans, i been doing 4l60e now i want to do his what tips you can give me and if i can install a transgo shift kit or if a need to install any updated part on the trans???? thanks...
Thank you so much for posting these awesome videos! This video (along with the ATSG manual) was extremely helpful in tearing down my E4OD. I've rebuilt a few other transmission, but this is the first Ford for me. I recently acquired a free '96 F-250 4X4 7.5L from a friend. The PO ran it low on fluid and it had absolutely no forward movement. After topping off the fluid to the proper level, reverse worked perfectly with no abnormal noise.
After teardown, I found the inner splines on the forward planetary had been completely stripped out by the output shaft. Output shaft seems fine as does everything else on the trans. All the clutches, bushings, and bearings look good, although I'll replace all clutches and seals anyways while I have it apart. I've ordered an all steel 6-pinion forward planet kit to replace the stripped 4-pinion one.
Any ideas on what might have caused the splines to strip out? I'd hate to put it all back together and have it fail again. Thank you in advance!
If it was an aluminium planet, fairly common, i've seen that before, they just wear out
@@GaryFerraro Thanks so much for the quick response! Yes it was aluminum and I've already ordered a heavy duty steel 6-pinion replacement, as well as a hardened sun gear shell (old one had light cracking as you described in your video). This truck will be used for towing and hauling. Anything else I should consider upgrading?
@@gpcl16 I do Transgo shift kits on all of these transmissions, May also want to look into a billet converter
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the advice! I'll report back when I get the truck back on the road hopefully in a few weeks. Also shot it the dark here, but do you have a relative named Pete? My high school wood shop teacher in California was from New York, and if I recall correctly his name was Pete Ferraro. And you guys have an uncanny resemblance, demeanor, and similar sounding voices.
Just tore it down. Some clutches burned band worn pump bushing wiped out. Forward drum scored from band. Gonna just clean it and let local atra certified shop rebuild it. Thanks
Gary, Your E40D tear down video was really informative. I was told that these trans took a lot of different tools to work on them. But by your video I didn't see anything special at all? I searched your RUclips channel and I don't see a reassembly video or a video about the shift kit you talked about. Are you going to make either of these videos? Thanks, Paul
+Paul Thurmond Hi Paul, I have a video of the shift kit on my computer i will put that soon, a rebuild video i do not have, sorry. Gary
+Gary Ferraro Too bad know one has an assembly video on the E40D. That would be really helpful.
Its very hard for me at the moment, When 8am hits its crazy til 5pm. Gary
I bet you are crazy busy. Thank you for taking the time to put up the videos that you do.
Thank you, and thanks for watching... Please subscribe Gary
How you are supposed to take the pump out is use 2 of the extension housing bolts and screw them into the only 2 treaded holes in the pump. Then use anything, I use a seal puller, and work it out. Takes about a minute and you don't have to beat the shit out of your input shaft.
Thanks for the tip, i actually use the extension housing bolts to line up the pump(along with a band).
+Gary Ferraro I am currently rebuilding an e4od for my f350. Trying to get the snap ring on the output shaft is killing me. Wondering if I put the wrong bearing in the bottom. Is there a thinner one that looks the same?
No, there are 2 bearings, but they are the same, i built 2 this week and that snap ring is a pain, your not alone(lol)
Howdy. The old truck is up and running with the E40D. How do I check line pressure? Just want to know everything is perfect. Before I start abusing it.
The side of the trans that the linkage is on, just in front of that is the pressure tap.
+Gary Ferraro thanks
your welcome
Gary,I appreciate your video,it has helped me alot.I have a 92 f350 diesel with e4od.its leaking at front seal.can i remove just the pump to replace it.Do I have to do anything with the bands.or anything else.
+DerrickIngr Ingram If its just leaking from the front seal, you dont even have to remove the pump, if the seal is a grey in color, those seals are a problem, get a seal from the ford dealer, should be black rubber. I actually have a video segment i did not put on my channel yet, but i go over the front seal in the unit. It pretty common for the seal to leak, after you knock the seal out make sure the bushing is ok, if all looks good just knock in a new front seal. How does the truck shift? hopefully you didnt run too low on fluid to burn the clutches. Thanks for watching, please subscribe. Gary
Thanks Gary good video
+احمد محمد Your welcome, thanks for watching.
Gary I have a 94 Bronco that will only move in drive. I was coming home the other night everything was working fine. I stopped at a stoplight and when I started to drive it was very sluggish I tried shifting manually down to 1st or 2nd and it got much worse . It will move in Drive but no other gear or very little in any other gear. Reverse also does not work. Just looking to get some inside of what might be wrong. I'm assuming I need to pull the transmission and have it rebuilt. Thanks for any help you can give. Mike
Me again 3 years later. Well things were good. But I screwed up. It shifted hard. If I didn't warm it up. And took off like a mad man. And bam shifting into 3rd. Then nothing. No forward or reverse gears. And no computer code thrown. I'm assuming something major broke. Thoughts on what?
Check the fluid level, see if shows like it,s overfull
@@GaryFerraro it's fine. Clean too.
@@ReverseGear ok, if fluid level is ok then pump is good. Do you recall if the overdrive planet was aluminum?
@@GaryFerraro no. I only pulled the pump. To make sure the seals were replaced. It was rebuild that I traded for. And it sat for a while.
@@ReverseGear Well if this stopped all of a sudden then sure seems like something broke, if the pump is ok, then it's very possible the O/D planet stripped or broke(the input shaft fits into the O/D Planet or something may have happened to torque converter, you said you had the pan down and it looks clean? Any noises when car is in or out of gear?
That air leak is killin me.Great video though.
LOL, me too, i switched to cordless impact tools, i bought the dewalt set.
Do you have the diesel e4od video cleaning it and finishing the overhaul?
do not, jst teardown and shift kit install, will keep that in mind. Thank you
What do you use to seal the transmission side of the lower trans dipstick tube with on a 97 f350 powerstroke with an e40d trans? It is smooth and has no indented ring for an oring to fit in like the upper tube does where it fits into the lower tube, its just smooth and so is the hole in the trans also.
silicone, make sure it is positioned correctly so it lines up with the filler tube
What was the estimated cost for this rebuild? I have a 1993 Ford E250 Coachman camper van that lost all fluids from the bell housing. I have low income so I am not sure if it's worth trying to have it rebuilt or should it be replaced with a rebuild one. I believe it is the E4OD. I am located in southern NJ. How do you locate a reputable shop to do this work ? it looks like an expert like you is needed. I am homeless now without my camper van. Lost my house to foreclosure and was living in campgrounds until the truck broke down. Will this rebuild cost thousands of dollars? It was towed to the ford dealer but they said the part that it needed was obsolete and they don't use aftermarket parts and that the estimate to repair was above $3500. They wanted to replace the tans with a rebuilt one. I assume it was that front seal that you first removed. Any suggestions for me would be helpful.
Would like to confirm transmission type, could you post the vin number or e-mail it to me at gsferraro@yahoo.com
VIN 2 1FDHS24H8PHA30136 1993 Ford E250 Coachman Camper Van
VIN: 1FDHS24H8PHA30136 1993 FORD E250 Coachman Camper Van
Ok i will check it at the shop tomorrow and get back to you in the morning
I have an E4OD in a 1990 F150 that only goes into reverse. We resealed the transmission and replaced the torque converter. We dropped the pan and it had no accumulation of residual metal. Would this be a pump issue or more likely a band / gear issue. Ive rebuilt engines before, but never a transmission. This is my daughter's truck and I am reluctantly going to fix this for her lol
Thanks for the video and assistance in advance
Does the truck move in manual one? Shouldnt be a pump issue, pump would affect foward and reverse
No, it won't move in 1st gear. I've ordered the rebuild manual mentioned further down in the comments. We are going to have to acquire the replacement parts a little at a time if it is extensive.
You may have an issue with the foward clutch drum, which is located in the center of the trans, the valvebody will have to be removed because there are center support bolts that have to come out in order for the support to be removed, Behind the center support are the clutch drums for foward and direct, the direct drum is the one with the band around it, the foward drum is the other. Gary
I have a 92 7.5L E4OD and I know the case is bad. I also have a rebuildable 95 7.5L E4OD, can I use the 95 case and place it into the 92? I understand there is a difference with solenoid body plugs and possibly a difference with the check ball amount and location?
Doing some research, looks like the check balls are the same from 1990 to 1995. Looks like valvebody gaskets are the same, solenoid pack is different but its the connector. have to talk to my supplier about the case
So long as the check balls are the same I believe that using the solenoid pack from the 92 in the 95 case should be fine? I Have to use the 92 solenoid pack to ensure compatibility with the 92 truck?
At any rate, thank you for the reply and any further help you provide. I loved the video and hope you do more.
As long as its not PWM solenoid pack, which i dont believe that it is but i want to ask my supplier
great video! i have a 1996 e40d 4x4 that only the reverse work you think if i replace the solenoid pack should fix the problem?
+rody resquin da silva If you have no foward, i would think you have an issue with your foward clutch pack, replacing the solenoid block wont fix the problem. Gary
How do you keep all of this sh*t straight?! Impressive stuff, Sir.
Doing this a long time, Thanks for watching
I like the video lost of info, I do have a question I have a 89 F350, 460 E40D, when I got the truck it had sat up for about 4 years, and I got it running and it was shifting hard from 1 to 2, previous owner said it all ways did that, so I keep driving, know it won't shift at all, I can manually shift from 1st, to 2ed, and that's it no more gears, so I parked, 2 mouths later I got in and it was doing the same, but I went to park it and something popped and it started shifting, and 4 days later it went back to not shifting, I did change filter and fluid, no change any help is greatly appreciated, and God Bless.
+Donald Jacobson The best first step is to read the codes from the PCM, which is the computer which controls the E4OD. Considering your unit's symptoms, there should be error codes concerning them stored within the PCM's memory.
Hi gary i love your watching your videos on your youtube channel. I Own a 96 f150 with a 5.0 liter 302 engine. When i make a u turn either the torque convertor is starting to fail or first gear is starting to fail. What is the best way to determine if it is my torque convertor or first gear that is starting to fail?
+Joe Dirt What happens when you make a turn, does it fall out of speed and neutralize?
IT REVS REALLY HIGHT THEN GOES THUNK INTO FIRST GEAR.
+Joe Dirt is this on a turn or starting from a stop
where is your shop I have two e4ods from 7.3diesel one only goes in reverse and the other is smooth in first and second slams into third and immediately goes to fourth doesn't want to shift back down unless manually done. problems ! I liked and subd
Hello, im in New york on Long Island, are you in the new york area?
San Diego , about as far away as possible as i could of been .. but i love the video thanks Gary they have so many rebuild kits for e4od which do you recommend?
I only use a rebuild kit from a company called Trans Tec, this is OE quality kit
Does the pump rotate at a constant speed as compared to a decrease or increase in engine rpms? Or does the pump rpm's vary along with engine rpm's? I have (92 Ford F150 E40D) with a pump sounding low pitched noise (actually sounds like the water pump on my small RV) at low engine rpm's (idle).
The torque converter drives the pump which is directly connected to the engine, so as engine rpm increases so the the pump volume.
thanks for the video. I have a 94 bronco xlt. the problem I'm having is it shifts hard in all gears with a occasional second gear slip. I ran dtc and got the 628 code exessive tourque converter clutch slippage. my question is. Is this a problem that can be fix with out a full rebuild or would I have to rebuild it? it is a E4OD 5.8L gas engine electronic shift transfercase. the other question I have is. if it can be fixed with out a full rebuild what is the problem and how do I fix it?
+Andrew Galyk Andrew, i never did a repair on an E4OD with a 628 code, But normally the problem lies in the front part of the transmission. The converter could be bad,your pump and/or pump bushings, worn pump gears. Either way the trans would have to come out. Also, if the trans comes in with that code i always install a transgo shift kit which helps address converter problems. Question, The M.L.P.S switch(manual lever position sensor) or neutral switch, do you know if it was ever updated to the lastest style, sometimes when they are bad it can cause hard shifts in every gear without setting a code for a bad switch. Gary
+Gary Ferraro thanks for the info. it helps. to answer your questions I don't know if it had been updated. how can you tell if it has been up dated? what is the repair procedure for replacing that switch?
Andrew Galyk
The old style switch wire harness is held down by 2 clips,one on each side, the new style switch wire harness is held down by one clip right in the front center of the switch. To update the switch, the wire harness has to be rewired so it will be able to plug in to the new style switch. Little tricky to do. Gary
I know this video is old its very helpful i have a 95 e40d i changed filter and refilled fluid now it only shifts reverse first and second it was shifting fine before no codes no flashing overdrive what would be the cause? I used mercon v if you are still around any suggestions?
where did you get the parts from?
Got filter from oreillys as well as the gasket I matched to the original filter it seems like a pressure issue
@@suicidezombie8976 If it worked perfectly before, maybe there is a problem with the filter. How did the pan look
Looked clean magnet had small catch on it but not much else
@@suicidezombie8976 so what happens on the 2-3 shift? does it make the shift and slip real bad or does not make the 2-3 shift?
Ugh doesn't give me hope for my e4od trans in my 1990 F250... it overheated and was puking fluid from front seal, I let it cool filled it back with fluid checked once restarted and not leaking so had to finish towing trailer took it easier the rest of 40 miles and once got it where I needed it checked and was dripping fluid this time but not completely out of fliud... so I know atleast have to replace the front seal girlfriend and I should be able to do that problem is possibly other damage and we too strapped financially to completely rebuild and that might be out of our abilities to take on complete rebuild so what should we check to make sure we not wasting more time then needed on a junk trans also trans has always shifted late and a bit hard when we got it usually stop and go traffic and cold but does a little better once I drained 1 gallon of excess trans fluid and adjusted kickdown cable... any guidance would be appreciated hoping to save truck as we cant afford to replace and it doesn't get used much but is still needed working good enough
Well, with the correct amount of fluid it works ok when not leaking? Is there anyone who can scan the car for codes to make sure no converter slip codes are present
@@GaryFerraro still acts up with proper fluid just not as bad. Occasionally the check engine light flashes after harder acceleration and then letting off or slowing down thought it was ignition issues but after checking plugs, wires, replacing plugs and coil even though truck runs smoother still happens just not as often, as far as getting someone to scan no not without spending $159+ or buying the odb1 scan tool... could jumper wire and read flashes possibly but have to get check engine light to come on and stay on to read the code
@@stevesherman3966 Not sure if a jumper wire can flash the light for the codes. How did the pan look when you changed the filteror did you not have the pan down. Where are you located?
@@GaryFerraro I havent changed the filter or gasket yet I have parts but need to pickup a helicoil and proper replacement bolt for the trans pan as someone previous jammed non standard bolt in so just wanted to have parts on hand before tearing into it at all the front seal just makes it worse for how long we will have to have it apart and more parts, I'm anticipating needing to clean valve bodies and shift solenoid but uneasy about that
Uneasy because we wont exactly be setup to take trans fully out of truck and I dont want to lose springs or the steel ball bearings used as for check valves
My 96 7.3 locks up as soon as it shifts into 3rd and it has to shift in and out bc it’s only running 1100 at 25 which is the most common speed limit in my town can this be fixed is something wrong
HAVE 2001 FORD F-150 4R-1OO WOULD LIKE A VIDEO OF TEARDOWN ARESEAMBLE
+Hollis Smith I do not have any in the shop at the moment but i will keep that in mind. Thanks for watching. Gary
+Gary Ferraro thanks hope U get one in
I have a 94 f150 4x4 has the 351 in it i have replaced trans 3 times every time it goes out it blows front main seal any idea why it keeps doing this contemplating selling of cant find a solution
Ok, so 3 different transmissions all with the same problem? is the seal actually out and on the converter hub or just leaking
The seals actually pop out onto converter and last time it happened I was pulling a hill
+Gary Ferraro I got a 97 F250HD 4x4 that started shifting real hard and when you come to a stop in gear it tries to stall the engine. I pulled a P1724 Auto Trans Slip code from it. Am I looking at a rebuild or is this a sensor???
Can you tell me the definition of this code?
P1728 FORD - Transmission Slip Error
I have a question between the forward and direct drum your showing a four tab washer but the diagram is showing a 2 tab washer. I have a two and a four but im thinking one of the fours should have went on the first planetary cuz im showing two there that I'm seeing now. Did someone mess up rebuilding it before or is your model different than mine? part 78 in the diagram at natpronet.com/trans/E4od-4r100.pdf
+Frank Pope Actually, if you look at it closely it is a 4 tab washer, all 4 tabs are evenly spread apart. Thanks for watching. Gary
So do you know where a two tab black washer would go in this perticular transmission? does it go on the pump maybe I have on left over....
Frank Pope Yes, thats exactly where it goes , fit the tabs into the 2 holes on the stator support.
Why does my E40d not go into overdrive when warms up to operating temp all other gears shift perfect
may be computer strategy to heat the car up quicker, you should see if 4th is being commanded or not when cold
@@GaryFerraro thank you for the reply it shifts perfect when it’s cold , I’ll put a pressure gauge on it then drive it and see what it reads when it doesn’t shift to overdrive thanks
Hello Gary ! Greetings for the day... I'm a subscriber from India and I'm facing some issues with my skoda superb b6 make 2 2009 . I needed some guidance with the DSG7 automatic transmission...the car is is not moving and the gear indicators in cluster metre are just blinking...please help me solve the problem
I dont have to much experience with the 7 speeds, but what codes do you have?
I have a 93 e40d that Is bucking with light acceleration recently had the pump seal come off after rebuild and replaced it on my own.what internals do you think could have been damaged?should I get another rebuild?
If it's the trans, could be forward clutch got damaged, do you feel this at normal acceleration?
Only upon slight acceleration after I give it a little more it will stop but it will also do it on the highway after coast with light aceleration?
I know you the ttans guy but do you think it may be a fuel delivery issue possibly I haven't had any problems with fuel just a possibility maybe?
When going slow it bucks hard on the highway its slight
@@obsfordtx1438 sure, could be misfire too. Any issues before the trans work was done?
The motor and trans were both rebuilt but only after the pump seal came out and I removed the trans to replace the seal. I think it may have damaged internals like you said.
I am in Longview TX. where are you located?
Mark Adams I'm in New York
Would it be a bad idea to remove the pump just to change the large outer pump seal. I worry about it leaking after I swap the transmission. The C6 it is replacing was leaking at that area.
You can pull out the pump to change the o-ring, just make sure nothing comes out of place, are you working on an E4OD? Gary
+Gary Ferraro Yes. switching from a C6 to E40D.
Ok, just be careful of the overdrive section which is right behind the pump. When the pump gets reinstalled after its tight make sure the input shaft turns(feel how it turns before you pull out the pump) Gary
+Gary Ferraro Cool. Thank you very much.
Welcome. Gary
97 expedition 4x4 5.4L vss on tailshaft housing keeps stripping the plastic wheel on it. They will not last for a day when I replace it.
Body Shop how is the part it meshes with or the gear you are using has the wrong pitch to it
Gary Ferraro I have not taken the tail shaft off myself. I took it to a shop and they said replace the transmission. Few weeks before that started happening it would make a grinding noise as if a bad u joint but it ran fine. As soon as the grinding and clunking went away completely it started tearing up the plastic gear on sensor. 21 teeth it is.
Body Shop do they know the reason the gear is going bad? Is the output shaft moving?
Gary Ferraro that is what he said. The main shaft that runs through the transmission and transfer case is moving.
so if this is a 4x4 the vss is in the transfer case
hi, Gary thks for this video. I have a 93' Bronco 4x4 ...can you tell me the best overhaul kit to buy..want something that will last. Also someone told me Borg-Warner makes the best friction plates? please give your input thks
The best kit to buy is an overhaul kit by the company TransTec, thats OE quality, Where are you located, if you need parts i can hook you up with my supplier
Gary Ferraro I'm out in LA,does your supplier carry planetary and other internal parts to?
Yes, i would hook you up with my rep, he also has am 800 number. He can ship the parts to you. On the E4OD's I always put a transgo shift kit. My supplier has good stuff
Ok,thks jus let me know
Let me just run it by him, i also have to get his 800 number for, i just hit the speed dial to get him on the phone, shouldnt be a problem though, i will get his E-mail as well
i wish u would rebuild some
are frictons and steels the same in a 4r100 and e4od
+Hollis Smith Actually they are different, the surface of the clutch and teeth of the clutch on certain frictons in the 4r100 are different. Steels are pretty much the same.
What would likely cause a hard shift into 4th, E40D?
Ok, You have a firm upshift correct? how is the 4-3 coast downshift?
It just stays in 4th almost until the rpm’s are all the way back down before it downshifts. And it feels fine.
It does it more when I’m accelerating hard.
7.5 Liter is the gas 460 my dude.
yes, i realized that after the fact. Thanks for watching
At 26:08 of video how do you pull reverse hub and one way clutch assembly??
What year trans are you working with?
Gary Ferraro 1991
tyrell2010100 still waiting!!!
Hello when I changed safety neutral switch on a 94 f150 . that the lever on the transmission I can't seem to move it to change gears what could cause this ?Thank you.
Ok, so you changed out the neutral switch and now the shifter wont move correct?
The neutral switch is new?
Yes I changed new switch
ok, disconnect the shifter cable and see if the shifter moves, if it doesn't you may have moved the lever to far and will have to drop the pan to put it back in place
Ok thank you for answering me I'm really greatful tomorrow morning I drop the pan
ok, let me know how it goes
Educational
Who the hell engineered that? HOly hell
Lol, our friends at ford
Good evening sir, i have a 94 f150 4x4 5.0 have a really delayed shift in ny e4od from first to second. Its a rebuilt trans ordered through advanced auto. Just tryin to get the truck to shift correctly and to operate as it should. Any ideas or help would be highly appreciated.
Im wondering if its going from 1st to 3rd, After the shift pull it into manual 2nd and see if the gear holds or just revs
Gary Ferraro will do sir, changing the power steering out to one that works in the morning. So i should manually start out in second and then bump it to drive??
Start out in drive, then after the shift pull into manual 2nd and see what happens
Gary Ferraro ok so got the power steering pump in it today took it out drove til it shifts from at almost 25 to 28 mph dropped to second and second gear does drive even from dead stop i have second gear
Could it be a lack of fluid or too much or maybe the solenoid on it isnt getting good connection or something?
how difficult is it to rebuild a e40d
Its not that bad, do you have any experience rebuilding? Very nice photo
+Gary Ferraro no but it looks like it common sense should I get a manual that explains the spec
Yes i would, what is the problem with your trans? the ATSG manual is very good. Gary
+Gary Ferraro when I got it it started to leak transmission fluid so I put the Lucas transmission leak stop and it worked for two days and then everything came out of it soul we sealed up the torque converter because that's where it was leaking from and we put it back and we filled it up with transmission fluid and it worked like for 15 minutes and then after that it just wouldn't run
it stopped moving on you?
In the future brother think about eyes on your work. You might as well be crackin walnuts. Id rather HEAR YOU , BUT BE ABLE TO SEE WHAT YOU ARE DOING. I'm all the way down to the last few parts. But saw most of everythi g from the guy with the orange gloves. But he talks about his other VEEDEOS TO MUCH. NO offense but SEEING IS AS GOOD AS HANDS ON FOR ME. MINE HAS A SPRING THAT POPPED OUT at the 9 checkball point. PLUS a single steel check ball fell out when I tipped it and have no clue from where.
The spring and check ball go together, spring first and the steel check ball on top of the spring. My e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com Send me an e-mail and i can send you some info on where the ball and spring goes.
So basically no...I can't do this myself.
What issue are you having
Hard delayed shifts, erratic shifting, O/D light flashing until reset, Have't pulled codes yet. 98 E450 Ambulance
next step is pull codes, let me know what they are.
Tranny throws an overtemp code just driving down the interstate. There is also a exhaust back pressure code. Any ideas?
Possible slipping torque converter, with the exhaust back pressure, it may be running hotter than normal, make sure your cat is not clogged. Do you feel it has a lack of power?
H?
LOL, Been having trouble posting my replies, keep getting a message "comment failed to post" so what ive been doing is just typing a letter to see if it will post, then i edit and put my reply. I would answer the questions, and it wouldnt post my answer, sometimes my answers are lenghty. Gary
Thatsalottaparts.
I like the video lost of info, I do have a question I have a 89 F350, 460 E40D, when I got the truck it had sat up for about 4 years, and I got it running and it was shifting hard from 1 to 2, previous owner said it all ways did that, so I keep driving, know it won't shift at all, I can manually shift from 1st, to 2ed, and that's it no more gears, so I parked, 2 mouths later I got in and it was doing the same, but I went to park it and something popped and it started shifting, and 4 days later it went back to not shifting, I did change filter and fluid, no change any help is greatly appreciated, and God Bless.
+Donald Jacobson Is there any way you could get that scanned for trouble codes for the transmission