This Tool Helps RESTORE DOORS AND WINDOWS! See How...(Profile Paint Scraper/Steel Shave Hook)
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
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(Individual replacement blades became unavailable while I was making this video. Hopefully they will return soon :) Also, Chili did not pay for this video--they only sent out the tool for free, and I really wanted to try it!)
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This Tool Helps RESTORE DOORS AND WINDOWS! See How...(Profile Paint Scraper/Steel Shave Hook)
Scraping paint from old doors and windows can be extremely tricky. In this short video, The Honest Carpenter experiments with a shave hook / profile paint scraper from Chili Tools!
Window and door restoration specialists use a variety of techniques to remove paint from old doors and windows.
Often, they will remove units, then even take out window glass. Then, they will use a strong orbital palm sander to sand down the "flats"--or the flat rails, stiles and muntins.
In order to carve out the paint on the "profiled" inner edges of the door panels, or window muntins, they will often turn to a profile scraper, or shave hook.
With the bevel up, these blades can be used to carefully carve or scrape the figured contours of these surfaces.
Window and door restoration specialists will also heat up the old paint using a heat gun. These tools can be dangerous though, and should always be handled cautiously!
Also, paint from before 1975 can contain LEAD. The EPA has a strict set of guidelines for working with lead-based paint. Please read and follow their policies here:
www.epa.gov/lead
Thanks for watching! Be sure to visit us at The Honest Carpenter Website:
www.thehonestcarpenter.com 
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This is one of the best demonstration videos I've seen! There was no talking over the fitting and prep of the tool or over the tool in use. The use was clearly and cleanly demonstrated. Any explanation that was needed was saved till the end. Kudos!
You can buy a test kit for lead and if you have lead paint you can take the door or window to a paint removal specialist where they will dip the piece in special paint removal liquid that removes all the lead paint. We did that with an old door that we turned into a headboard. Worked out perfectly.
Thank you, Rocadamus! For a while in the early 2000s, I feel like they were selling lead test pens, like markers. But I haven’t seen them in quite a while, maybe they weren’t EPA approved. You’re approach was the best one though-I’d like to see that process!
@@TheHonestCarpenter Thanks. We found a really cool old door at an old antique shop and knew almost immediately it probably had lead paint on it. We grabbed a lead paint kit from Lowes, just to be certain. It tested positive, so we contacted a local (in Phoenix) company that removes old lead paint by dipping it. It completely took ALL the paint off of the door down to the raw wood and it looked amazing. You can not be too careful about lead paint. Once we knew it was positive for lead, we covered it in plastic and taped it close, then took it to the paint removal place. Love your vids.
I’ve seen this tool and never knew how to use it. Thanks for sharing and also for emphasizing the very real danger of lead paint. I think that scrapping it off would be safer than sanding, where the paint becomes airborne and easily breathed in.
I just have to stop and say that I am so appreciative of your channel! Your videos are short and to the point. They are informative and never leave me with more questions than I started with. And I want to thank you SO MUCH for not making me watch a 20+ minute video of babble for information that could have been said in two sentences! RUclips videos are the new dreaded work meeting... most of it could have been an email 😆 so glad I found your channel! I will always come here first if I need info for a project!
Thank you, Katie! I script out my videos these days just for that reason. It cuts down on a lot of the empty space. No circling back to old meetings here 😁 Thanks for watching! Lots of new stuff coming up when I get a new house/studio this spring!
Oh jeez I randomly clicked on this vid from a Google search whilst trying to shop for a new shavehook and then realised it was you Honest Carpenter!!! serendipity! - Yeah I've been pretty annoyed when going to sites and being asked to scrape clean a door/window with mouldings (and an easily scratched centred glass panel that they've asked me not to remove) when I've had nothing at my disposal but a large flat scraper. Note to self: keep that shavehook in your van at all times!
Ps, good advice on the heatgun pre-application, a lot of folks I know would spend their entire day scrapping a door raw with just the tool and their elbow-grease. As for the safety aspect with the heatgun well it's obvious but I guess you have to state it to avoid liability so kudos.
Last note is just to remove all intumescent strips, silicone or caulking before using the heatgun. Just my two cents 😃
I'm a professional window cleaner and restorer. There are multiple types of this tool you can find and I highly recommend it. It can be used to repair drywall and plaster as well. Keep them sharp and have at it. Tears through wood plaster and gypsum like a hot knife through butter.
Thank you, Diamond Back! Just who I wanted to hear from! Didn’t even know about the plaster/gypsum function. I might tune my blades up on my diamond stones and give it a try 😄
@@TheHonestCarpenter for plaster it will need to be a carbide blade with a teardrop shape. With the pointy end pull back on the crack and it will create a deep valley in the crack. Now turn around for the rounded end and pull along the crack again giving a shallow wider valley. Now your ready to patch. I have one from my dad. Was working on steel windows and the plaster guy offered me $100 for the one I have. Very hard to find and not cheap when you do. Should be on a long angled steel stem and the head itself needs to be 2 inches. You can make one from steel but with the softer steel it will bend and dull quickly. Carbide will hold up much better. This one tool is the most important tool in my tool belt.
How do I find the ones you use or can you show pictures?
@@tylermcgonigal6031 I ordered it online. I'll see if I can find it and will provide the link
@@tylermcgonigal6031 go on amazon. Search "teardrop plastering scraper" the one from this video will be the first hit. It comes with two additional scraper heads buy some can be found with up to 24 attachments. Get the one that has the heads that best fits your needs
Using the citrus stripper and this tool would be advised. Used the stripper before but didn't know about this scrapper tool. Learn something new every day. Right on
I have seen them but never used. I did it the hard way. Great Info & Demo!!! Thank You!!! 😲👍😎😃
I bought the Allway Tools Soft Grip Contour Scraper Set with 6 Blades last summer to scrape off the lead paint on my porch. It works extremely well with a heat gun and some contour sanding afterwards. There were at least 10+ layers of paint to remove. The scraper is really the only way to remove paint along with a good heat gun other than a chemical stripper. I try to avoid the terribly strong and lingering odor that all chemical strippers give off. The single most important feature of a scraper I think is that it has to have a comfortable handle grip. You are most likely going to be scraping paint for many many long hours and if you don’t have a comfortable grip your hand starts to cramp very quickly. That was one of the main reasons I bought the Allway tools scraper. It is under $25 Canadian funds on amazon.
How in the world could you ever get a thumbs down vote on any of your videos? Almost every video I've learned something from is concise and helpful for simple to moderate DIY projects. I love learning more about all of these tools and materials.
Going through all my tools...sorting/organizing. And I have had one of these FOREVER. Glad to know what it is for. Now that I know, lol you said "be careful with the heat gun" & the lead based paint. When i was little, we lived in an old house in Baltimore, and I remember my dad on the side of the house, on a ladder, with the BLOW TORCH, burning paint off of the window trim, presumably he was scrapping it with the one I have (I know tools that we "handed down" to me)...probably his grandfathers who actually built a dresser and a corner China display cabinet that I still have (things certainly arent made the way they use to be!!)
Cool story, Dhana! No, things def aren’t what they used to be 😅
DIYers will 100% crack the glass using a heat gun on windows. The best way I've found is to sand the flat areas, chemical strip the moldings and only use this tool on stubborn details. Too many things will go wrong using it exclusively.
Either that or poison themselves on the lead paint.
@@r13gbs that's what respirators are for.
There are special ones for windows, the Speed Heater and the Speed Heater Cobra (smaller version). They use infrared heat, and there's much less of a chance of the glass cracking. Still there, of course, but decidedly smaller. With the big one, you place it on a piece of wood sitting atop the "flats" described in this video, tilted at an angle to the next mullion you're aiming to scrape. Important to make sure it's directed primarily at the woodwork, and not the glass. I use a small, thin piece of plywood with soft furniture foot pads under, to protect the glass.
The heat gun recommended in the description comes with a tip specifically designed to direct the heat away from the glass when stripping windows....but he didn't use it in the video :-/
Thank you for the warning about the scraping! My teeth cringed but the heads up gave me enough time to mute my phone. Yay 😁
I wasn't familiar with the mystery tool. My first thought was "hmm. A torcher device from a tool rep.? I wasn't expecting the Spanish inquisition! 🤷
I'll add only an old school trick I learned from my Granddad.
24 hours before using the heat stripper, coat the surface to be stripped with a decent coat of plain old boiled Linseed oil. This helps to lift the paint from the wood and helps prevent scorching.
Doing that would take less than half the time using just the heat gun, and requires less time with 1000° blasting away at an antique hardwood paneled door.
When I'm removing paint from a piece that I am refinishing, sometimes I use Citristrip Paint Remover. Smells like orange and works really well. I have not had any bad results with it . The VOC level is so minimum I don't even wear a mask inside. I use gloves only because of the paint.
"Citristrip Paint Remover. Smells like orange and works really well.' If you have days & days & days to reapply & scrape it over & over again. Been working with it for a month now. Never again.
@@kooale try wrapping in plastic wrap after you apply and let it sit for a couple hours, it should come right off.
@@theagavejazz I will postpone further stripping until spring or summer & then return to using Jasco® Premium Paint & Epoxy Remover, by far the fastest & most effective stripper I've used in the past few years, though toxic as all hell. But thanks Mr. C.
My Dad and his two brothers as well as their father were all painters and glaziers and used these all the time.I also used them -mainly the triangular shaped one in my plumbing trade to clean the oxidization off lead before leadburning or lead wiping.But they were always called 'shave hooks'.Paint scraper was used to describe the flat style of various widths like the one on the window at 4.50. Doesn't what they were called they are very handy tools.Love ya shows-Jeff from OZ.
It's a shave hook, yes. I'm a retired decorator.
Not many know the trade name for them these days. I've never seen one with an interchangeable head before, its a good idea. They're sharp when new, but blunt fairly quickly and you can't sharpen them. I don't like hot air strippers though, they don't get hot enough and outside in a slight breeze, they're useless. They're better for amateurs though. A flame is much better and quicker, but takes practice.
@@julianhowarth1075 Was taught as a kid to use a Primus Kero powered blow torch to strip paint-still remember the smell of the paint.Before you could afford gas soldering gear I always used a kero blow torch for heating my soldering irons.That's what the hook and rest on the top of the torch barrel was for-supporting your iron as it heated.
Really appreciate tools like this for restoring purposes. Thanks for showing!
🙏🏼🙏🏼 For the »WARNING« about “ear noise”. You are awesome for adding that👍🏻
Many years ago I worked with a home restore company. I was the low man in the company and I remember NOT having a tool like that. I had to use razor blades to get into the profiles of the windows. How much easier would it have been having that tool? Very interesting video.
This video brought back some old memories and the are all BAD! I had four of these tools. One was so old it had a wood handle. Craftsman used to sell a set with two handles so you would not need to change blades so often. I have not used one since the 1970s and I am so glad. In those days, you would take the door off the hinges and use a propane torch to heat the paint (usually lead based) away from the structure. Windows were also removed. Thankfully the newer paints last longer and are not as hard to remove from the surface with an orbital sander for flat surfaces and a Roto Tool for the profiles.
Test the paint layers for lead before doing anything. That way, if the paint doesn't contain lead, you won't have to follow all of the rules for removing lead paint, which are important, but a real PIA. Not all old paint contained lead -- only the "good" stuff. Lead additives increased durability, protected against mold, made the paint more crack-resistant, improved paint coverage, and had other desirable characteristics, and was used in more expensive paints. The lead percentage was usually higher in exterior paints, so be especially careful when removing exterior paint. Latex paints are relatively new and are less likely to contain lead (but you should still test if you don't know when the paint was applied). Finally, remember that even if you use a non-toxic paint remover, the paint sludge you scrape off may contain toxins.
This is exactly what I need to finish scraping off the paint off my cabinet doors! Thx
Stripping solution gets every where 💁🏻♂️💁🏻♂️💁🏻♂️
Thanks for the video! Loved watching how you demonstrated this from beginning to end! Another one for the tool box!
A great tool. I use a paint stripper but still need to use this tool.
Awesomeness... thanks so much for the info...I've a couple windows to restore, gonna try this 😀
You’re welcome, Grams! Work safe-watch out for those old windows! 😄
@@TheHonestCarpenter absolutely!! Blessings
Be careful paint appled prior to 1976 has lead in it an burning it make it more hazardous, sorry as a pro this is not recommended, use safer strippers
@@robertswenson6009 cannot use strippers, for health reasons thats why I use the older methods... I do wear a respirator and eye protection so no worries
Can you use paint remover and then scrape off with this tool? Would seem easier. But I'm definitely NOT a pro.
You certainly can, I've been doing just that for months
When my dad bought an old house a few years ago, which had half a dozen ugly painted doors, he removed them all and took them to a company which dipped them in paint remover which removed all paint effortlessly.
Upon retrieval he stained and varnished them and they came out great. His investment in time was very limited.
He did have one of those tools too and I always wondered what the heck it was for (I guess he did too)!
I'm mostly with monkeygaborange on what to use. However, there are places and times when the correct profile scraper is a job saver. I didn't use one like this, what I used was basically a flat piece of steel about 6 inches long and usually about 4 inches wide, but it was often cut to fit a specific shape, usually some shape that was uncommon on most jobs but common on a single job, if you get what I mean, not found in many places but found throughout a particular place. Sometimes, you don't want to use stripper, because the trim is located in a place where the stripper will run off and maybe ruin something else. In some of the old very ornate homes of yesteryear, you don't want to take down the trim either, that would make the job bigger and harder than it has to be. besides there's a good chance of breakage of irreplaceable trim if you try to remove 100+ year old wood trim. So, sometimes mild heat is okay, but you don't want to get it too hot. Rather than a heat gun I have used a blow dryer, better ones get just hot enough, but lower the risk of burning things. they don't last long with all day use, but can be picked up in thrift stores cheap enough to be considered throw aways. (clean the intake areas when you get them)
I was just going to get a heat gun to strip a chair, the paint was kind if sticky when I sanded it and there are many grooves etc. I will check those out in you Amazon shop
Hi, When I started out in woodwork that is all you had and none of those fancy heat guns, mine took paraffin and you had to pump it up to get the correct pressure before stating to scrape anything, as for lead paint, we were still using it so we had the fumes when removing it and the smell when applying it PPE was a pair of old gloves.
I used a can opener and chisel on the 17 windows, 10 doors and all of the wainscotting in my upstairs apartment. No heat gun.
I stripped all of the paint layers off...up to the original milk paint or shellac and then used white pigmented shellac as both the primer and paint coat.
Came out beautiful and bound any missed areas of paint so that there was no peeling.
Since the WPS is flat, I kept it clean with soap and water and touched up any areas that needed it over the years with another coat of WPS.
Use blow torch with fantail attachments for faster heat transfer.
Thank you for all you do.
The respirator must be the vapor type or both vapor and particulate type if you're also sanding. Keep a fire extinguisher with you and a bucket of water.
The average diyer will probably scorch the wood and thus damage the door/window/furniture item when using a heat gun. It also wastes a lot of energy and takes a lot longer. Most pros stick to orbital sanders and diyers probably should follow that practice too. Having said that, I've seen these tools before as parts of a heat gun kit and I believe they have their uses (e.g. when working with painted iron). I'd use them but what is really missing is a heat gun with accurate temperature control. Noxious fumes are also a problem - e.g. when you have to work indoors.
This is an interesting approach. I think I would have taken the door off it’s hinges and sanded as much as I could then primer, paint and sealer spending on paint you users The places I would scrape would be in fitment areas like the door jamb if I had warping or inconsistencies
The ultimate glazier tool . I'm sold and Thanks .
You’re welcome, Quantum! I want to team up with a good glazier someday. I’ve done it a couple times, but I want to get some pro tips!
@@TheHonestCarpenter IMO - Your 6 in one tool video is one of your best . I bought 2 because of your recommendation .
6 in 1 tool for those interested ->
ruclips.net/video/5IGDokUJebw/видео.html
Gives me a hand cramp just watching this video. I have used scraper and mostly it takes patience.
Yeah, you're forearms will get a workout with these things, John. You're right, takes patience and HEAT. I was in a cold, cold outbuilding here and was having a hard time getting the paint to warm. I think in a relatively insulated shop, I could speed it up a little.
going to tackle a window project to rebuild a dozen old wood windows this year. Nice tool idea to add to the arsenal.
If you are going to do that many windows you need to build a steam box. Look it up
Thanks for the demonstration Ethan. One question: what's the appropriate temperature setting on the head gun for this type of work? Mine is adjustable between 50 to 500 degrees Celsius.
I don't know of anyone who strips and primes a door these days, they just add another coat of paint on top or replace the door.
I would be inclined to replace the door.
Truth. Looks like he’s scraping off a previous color prior to the white.
I used scrapper on windows and doors just to remove flaked paint. Other paint was left intact - too much effort. Sanding old paint was also very impractical. Bought more expensive paint and painted two layers on top. But for scrapping old flaked paint, scrappers work perfectly. Also some paint was left on windows after painting - scrappers were perfect for them also.
That’s the difference between doing it right and just going through the motions.
You lose the crisp definition of the profile after too many layers of paint
Was that oil paint ?
If not, would that process have worked on oil paint ?
You make any tool seem essential. lol
Haha, thanks Mucaro 😆 The bigger your tool collection gets, the more essential the next one seems!
@@TheHonestCarpenter, haha, that's how I feel. Size matters after all.
Great video Ethane! Thanks for sharing that with us.
Have you done a video on respirators? This summer I plan to do a lot of painting and purchased a sprayer. But I have no idea which respirator I should use while using the spray paint. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Another helpful and interesting video. Thanks Ethan! Hey, I have a question. You mentioned in this video that you have a video about heat guns, but I could not find one on this channel. Could you please link to it in the description? Again, thank you for this good information! -Cara
I hate to admit it but I have always wondered what those things were for. Now I know, Thanks
Appreciate the silence at the beginning and your succinct use of words. Just the facts. VERY COOL.
To make things faster, I would think buying three handles would work better.
I’d say you’re not wrong about that. Chili sent me this one for free, but it seems like if you were really tackling a big project, getting a few and just keeping extra blades as backup would be best.
Fantastic! If I had only known this 2 weeks ago!
Working on a restoration project, Shelley?
But how long will it take to scrape a whole door though.
Thanks for another great video! Please talk at the beginning of the videos. I almost bailed because I thought the whole thing was no narration. Just an FYI in case I wasn’t the only one thinking this.
Thanks for sharing that
You’re welcome, Hassan!
Thanks...I will be buying a new door. 😊
I prefer using a heat gun and profile scrapers when cleaning up old doors and trim. Way faster and cleaner than chemical strippers that dry out the wood. In the end the results of restoring 100+ old wood is well worth the time.
Shouldn't the bevel point towards the handle?
Wow these blades on the wrong hands can serve as a weapon or an arrow / spear tip.
I have re-contoured putty knives and scrapers with a bench grinder. Most of the time I reach for my cheap pocket knife.
I feel like I didn't hear this said explicitly so... DO NOT HEAT GUN SUSPECTED LEAD PAINT. It will vaporize the lead into poisonous gas. He said to follow EPA guidelines, and that's at the top of the list for specialists who do lead paint remediation. The processes for those specialists are public. Read up!
You really had me focused trying to figure out what the heck that was. That looks EXTREMELY labor intensive, which makes me ask why not use a chemical stripper? Wouldn’t that save time therefore, money? Is there some advantage to stripping it mechanically?
Thanks, I think I will invest in one.
Yes those tools do work, however, I think I would rather use a paint and varnish remover. I have restored a few pieces of furniture. My first piece I spent hours and hours of sanding till I finally got smart and used a paint and varnish remover. And then only a little time was devoted to clean up sanding.
Great to have around except you might get distracted by another project you need to finish while you're looking for it just about like everything else.
Humm. Nice addition to know. Thank you
Wow 👍
Thanks for the information
First time to your channel with an important question!
Are you William Zabka's ( karate kid, Cobra Kai)brother or cousin?
Great advice as usual!
Seen this before, but normally it doesn’t have interchangeable head you just need multiple scrapers
I would always suggest this tool with an interchangeable head so you have an easier time sharpening it but still would have multiple scrapers at hand so you don't need to change the heads constantly when you are dealing with multiple profiles.
I would really appreciate you talking on videos giving details and information. Just showing a product sometimes just doesn't help. Love your videos btw.
Looks to be better solution than paint strippers? 🤔
Come on everybody knows that, helps clean yourself when the nature calls.
Was doing a window one time and didn't realise the windowsil was plastic.. Whoops! Make sure there's no plastic in the way!
Wouldnt a paint stripper work better than a heat gun....thanks for sharing though
Never used one and never will use one!!
Seems like all work and no fun!!
More Power baby more Power!
Thanks Chili but I will pay you not to send me any!!
I am just not wired to do that fine work
MORE POWER BABY MORE POWER!!!!!
Great video
Thanks
Bob
England
Probably cheaper to buy new door
This is true, Manny. A lot of DIYers these days like to reclaim this old stuff. That door is so old you can see saw blade swipes from the mill in it.
Sure it’s less expensive to buy a new door. However, old doors and new doors aren’t comparable. A new door made of solid wood, will cost easily 3-4 times the cost of stripping. The doors that are inexpensive are typically hollow and made from cardboard, or at best MDF. Not even close to the same thing.
its a paint stripper...(edit) works well with stripper too but a little messy.
Just when you think your painter's 5 in 1 tool is the mother of all tools...
I made sure to squeeze a shot of that one into the video too, HAL 😆
Looks like a superior tool @ lesser cost: HYDE Contour Scraper with 6 Changeable Blades #10450 $15.30
Cool but seems this will take forever 😀
This kind of work is not my profession, but I have spent the last two years restoring the cedar window frames, door frames, doors and cladding on my own place. I’ve experimented and refined my method and honed my technique.
On flat surfaces I mostly just sand, using the best power tool, and on profiled areas/narrow edges, I use a non toxic (water based) remover and a non rusting steel or synthetic abrasive pad and or scraper, prior to sanding by hand, using a shape that fits the profile best.
I’d never consider using a heat gun.
Whilst the scraper you use, looks to do the job well on flat surfaces, I would prefer the much smaller triangular blades on a shorter shaft, to get into tight corners.These type of blades can also be rotated on all three sides when they get blunt.
Why not use a chemical stripper? At least on the bigger projects like that. if you're taking that door down to original, you're probably doing windows and trim work in that house too. That is a lot of scraping. Wouldn't chemies be easier?
That's definitely a possible approach, Cassandra. But showing it on the channel would have made me nervous--I want to team up with a company to cover paint stripping chemicals, so I can rely on their research for safety sake. In the future I'll definitely cover it!
@@TheHonestCarpenter I think I phrased that badly. I love your tool videos, no criticism intended. I guess my actual question was I got the impression that pros will frequently do it manually, or with a sander, what I wondered was why wouldn't professionals use chemical strippers instead of hand tools? Or did I read that wrong?
@@cassandraclark1189 No Worries! Pros will definitely use all the methods above. I think they alternate between them based on individual circumstances. For some reason when I see restoration pros resurfacing windows, they seem to do it more with heat and tools rather then chemicals. I'm not entirely sure why, maybe just don't want as much fume exposure. But designated painters, by contrast, seem to opt for chemicals strippers more frequently.
I have been pretty disappointed in strippers lately. California has banned so many of the ingredients in them and they just don't work like they used to.
@@Yellow.Dog. oh man, I hadn't thought of that. The house my folks did when I was a kid was full of beautiful oak, just everywhere. Floors, windows, doors, everything. Thank God for strippers then. It was hard enough scraping the carpet glue off the floor, couldn't imagine scaping all that paint 😳
I just bought a house. It’s really old. It has 39 windows and they all look like that door. PLEASE tell me there’s a faster way to scrape the paint off than this lol
You might wanna change that razor blade..... seemed more like a tear than a slice.
That’s more my ineptitude, MB. But I think I could tune them up sharper for sure, which would help. Maybe even back sharpen it for a tiny hook edge too...
Oh wait, you meant the utility knife! Yeah, time to swap blades 😂
I am forever getting questions on my paint stripping video asking what this tool is called, so people can search and buy one.
But how far can a ninja fling them at a target?
Chemical Strip is Easiest !!!!!!!!!!!
I've used tools that are very similar like this one in the Netherlands like 30 years ago...
It boggles my mind that you have bare flesh touching metal that's being heated with the gun? I wear gloves and suggest everybody should. It was a good scraping demonstration.
Nah, use a multitool with the right attachment and do the job ten times faster. Nice video though
I really really Hate the sound when opening a plastic package
A scraper
The scrapping noise was annoying! Like scratching on a chaulk board!
Yeap😟😒 and you got to
have ....aaaaaaloooot of
Patience.....trust me .....
Good tool but very very time consuming even for one door ! ! !
paint stripper is BETTER and will not cut into the wood
After an hour or 2 of scraping that door.....id lose my shit and go buy a new door.
I noticed that at the 4:40 mark in you video the person has their mask not on but hanging fro their.
Safty first wear some type of mask when working on possible lead base paint which you mentioned in your video.
Edit out the person using a machine sander in your video with the mask hanging down off their neck please!
I may have gotten lead poisoning just by watching this.