This is just the best how to! Just authentic, no fat, premium instruction and demonstration! Thank you so much for being a wonderful Mentor to all who are able to watch this video!
Love this video Lou. I still have my grandfathers scraper he gave my dad. My dad gave It to me and said don’t underestimate how useful a very old tool can be. He was right. I use it all the time for smoothing wood removing finish, etc. It seems like you enjoy saying “I’m gonna pick up this little bastard” - I would too.
Lou, you are a gift to shipwrights and woodworkers in general. I am thrilled to have this new channel available - the scraper video alone is going to save me a ton of time.
Great tip Lou! Not that it matters much, but just a little obscure knowledge about files: "Bastard" refers to the coarseness of the file. American pattern files come in bastard, second, and smooth, which are coarse, medium, and fine respectively. A "Mill" file is one originally used in saw mills and suitable for sharpening circular saw blades (not modern carbide ones of course). This mill style is "single cut" and it also has a particular shape, generally rectangular but tapered along its length. Anyway, just in case that's of interest :)
Great info, but the question is how "Bastard" got it's name? There are different theories on this matter, but I subscribe to this one: Its between "Coarse" and Second Cut" hence its the "bastard" cut. As I read, "bastard" was used originally used as "of unknown origin". But it came to know something that is not quite as big/small/long/short/etc as something else, so in a way, in between two other common things. A bastard sword, a batard (French for bastard) baguette, and finally a bastard file.
I love your channels and learn a lot. I appreciate all the time, effort and thought these vlogs take to produce. Always Looking forward to the next one. It means a lot to instruct and encourage the next generation of shipwrights and I appreciate all you do. Thank you.
Please excuse this lengthy comment. Mr. Sauzedde is right about this tool, as always! So I set out to build this “simple” tool. It is simple, cheap to make and very effective. It only took me three try’s to get it right, so here is what I learned. BTW I recommend watching his video multiple times and take notes. Videos like this say a lot with few words. The Red Devil blades are readily available on-line but hard to find locally by me. Mr. Sauzedde had the benefit of an existing tool to pattern a new one from so I had to figure this part out myself. Length of the hardwood handle should be twice the width of your palm plus an inch or so. A 5/8” thickness is perfect, the width = the blade of choice. Precisely cut the blade notch square to the handle. I cut this notch before contouring the handle. Contour the handle to fit your grip and soften the edges to avoid blisters. The mill bastard file grooves will be run perpendicular across the blade edge when sharpening the tool. About 10 strokes should be adequate. The file incline “just above your fingers” is the same angle you will draw the tool across the work. Moderate or light pressure on the work should be all you need. It may sound like I’m overstating the build but it did take me three tries maybe you see it clearer than I did. I cannot say enough about how fantastic this tool works, how quick it works. This has cut my sanding down to the irregular surfaces, edges and narrow spaces using fine grits. No dust, no noise, no batteries or extension cords just sweep up the shavings. When removing varnish, progress can be judged by observing the shavings or material removed rather than how the varnish still looks. This tool will take off very fine shavings. Note in the video how Mr. Sauzedde varies his strokes, this is important. I even used it on edge grain effectively. Enjoy!
Highly appreciate your videos and passion! Hard to tell an "unknowner" why it is important how a tool feels and sounds, and why it needs to be sharpened in a certain way. I deem sustainable tool sharpening a science on its own, open to passionate people, forever unknown to strangers. Best regards from Austria
Probably just saved each viewer here $100 in sandpaper just over the next couple years - not to mention better lungs from not breathing the sanding dust. Thank you!
Hey Lou, I have been following you on your "Tips from a Shipwright" channel then I found this a real bonus! Love your insights and innovative ideas, such an inspiration.
I use the heck out of my scapers. I really like that you can give them a slight concave or convex edge according to your needs. Another handy tool is a Goodell putty 'chisel'. They are about 2 to 3 times thicker than a putty knife & very stiff. Keep them cool when sharpening & it'll maintain it's temper. Great video & I hope someone gets some use from my tips also. Sharing is caring!👍
Incredible video!!! So informative, thank you very much @BristolShipwrights. This is by far the best, most succinct explanation as to why my scrapers don't work AT ALL! I kept buying new ones, hoping they'd be better than the previous. I assumed I had bad luck. I sharpened with the bastard file, but apparently I did it wrong. I was following the directions for sharpening a card scraper. Regardless.. all my scrapers all crapped out on me regardless of their medium (carbide or steel blade). In the end I just needed to see this video!! Now I've now learned how to sharpen scraper blades correctly. I also acknowledge that the factory 'sharpened' finish on a scraper blade is PURE JUNK. "The blade slides around on a plastic handle" - YES. I couldn't keep the blades stationary even while in a vice during attempts to sharpen the dang things. They kept wiggling around regardless of how often/tight I'd fasten the screw. I am going to experiment by disassembling a chip paint brush and try using its handle in lieu of the original plastic one. I am going to order some new blades right now, so that I can assemble some "new" scrapers. .....And yes, I'll properly bastardize the blades before I let them touch wood. Regards, Erica
I made scrapers from handsaw blades, like 2X3, sharpened them with a stone and burnisher, but found it faster to use a file. When I worked in a antique restoration shop. Then I got 2 Red devil scrapers cleaning out a garage for a neighbour, a 1" and a 2" and they are useful I got replacement blades also. If I have some dirty wood or sanded wood, I clean it up with the scraper before cutting with a tool that I sharpened on a stone.
You, sir, are a national treasure. I love how you say "go to the band saw" like it's just a band saw. That thing is COOL. Could you give us some information about it?
IKR? That's a antique slecial treasure version of a bandsaw. You just don't see tools made with that much attention to detail any more. Nowadays, it's sheet metal with a sticker, not cast into the iron.
Paul Bryant at Riverside Boat Company taught me about Red Devil scrapers, I complimented him one time on his bucket of pine handle palm scrapers, much shorter handles and asked him if I could have one sometime and the next time I came to the shop he slid two across the table to me but I could tell they weren't pine and I asked him what they were made out of because I knew they weren't oak or mahogany and he said they were made out of black walnut from a tree that he cut down when he built his house up the hill from his shop in Newcastle Maine. I've used those two mahogany handled Palm scrapers to remove all the Penetrol that was on my 980 square foot log cabin because I didn't like Penetrol and those Red devil blades on the handles that I like are just perfect. The only challenge is getting screws through the Red devil blades because the metal is so hard I had to ask Paul Bryant for his special punch the time that I tried to drill it the drill bit just spun.
@@BristolShipwrights somewhere on RUclips I have some videos of the restoration work that went into my 1967 27-ft Norman Hodgson, WHITE LADY, his last build, a mahogany plank White oak frame striper or buggy top skeg built lobster hull.
Lovely video. Nice presentation and great atmosphere in the workshop. One safety-related question: isn't it considered dangerous to use a file without a handle? A wrong move and the sharp(ish) tang can be stuck through one's hand.
Lou, I wonder what your thoughts are on card scrapers, cabinet scrapers, and scraper planes. I find that they are also excellent tools especially when doing larger areas, but can be more work to sharpen. There is no arguing that your sharpening is fast and the scraper works well. Good to see your new channel. My friends and I don't build boats (yet), but just love your skill and tricks which we apply to our wordworking. Is the other channel going to continue?
I have some vintage Skarsten scrapers. I don't know about original blades, but compatible blades by "HaWe" are commonly available in Luxembourg and Germany (and probably elsewhere in EU), e.g. in Hornbach chain of home improvement stores.
I used to take a rectangle of metal, file or grind an edge and then rub the edge with a metal bar to create a burr. I even had a ceramic stone for this once... The advantage of an unmounted rectangle was that with two hands I could place my thumbs low on the back in the centre and curl my fingers around the two ends. This way I can impart a slight bow in the plate and thus remove more material in the centre and not have the corners dig in. As some one else suggests, old saw blades would be good but I used whatever bits of metal came to hand though on obviously some where better than others. Currently I am using a paint scraper, one of those pallette knife types with a broad flexible blade but not holding it by the handle but as I have described. I used it to smooth some pallet wood. No planes or sandpaper, I got a real smooth finish just with the scraper. As pallet wood there were some deep marks which I could smooth to below the overall surface by flexing the blade. A slight depression being better than a scar or having to flat the whole surface.
These are sold by woodworking suppliers as scrapers. They also sell rods, sometimes carbide rods for rolling the burr. Stanley even had a plane used to hold a plate of steel at an angle with a screw to put the flex in the plate called a scraper plane.
In woodworking, these are called cabinet scrapers. They should be made of steel with an appropriate temper - not too soft, not too hard. Spring steel can work, but might as well buy actual (set of) cabinet scrapers, they are not expensive. Thickness is usually between 0.5 and 1.0 mm (thinner scrapers produce thinner shavings). The way to sharpen them is a bit complicated, it's more than just filing. The working end is squared to the surface using a file and sharpening/honing stones. Then a burr is rolled using a scraper burnisher (a hardened steel or carbide rod of round or triangular shape). In the end, the two working ends of the scraper have 4 usable hook-shaped burrs. These refined burrs are more like cutting edges, than the burrs left after a machining operation, that we usually want to get rid of. In contrast, paint scraper blades, at least of the type shown, are normally filed at about 45 degrees, and that's all there is to their sharpening. As far as I know.
@@thomasarussellsr Veritas (and possibly others) steel make a scraper plane. A cool but rather expensive tool. I have a vintage Stanley #80 scraper plane, which I got very cheap on ebay, along with a vintage pump hand drill, a brace and an assortment of bits. A simple scraper plane like Stanley #80 allow to put a curve in the blade, while more advanced scraper planes such as Stanley #112 (by now a collector's item) or the modern Veritas Scraping Plane allow also to adjust the angle that the blade is presented to the work surface.
Maestro, "bastard" traces its name back to medieval times and the devices of British heraldry signifying rank and family associations thus this definition: > bend sin·is·ter< /ˈˌbend ˈsinəstər/ nounHeraldry noun: bend sinister a broad diagonal stripe from top right to bottom left of a shield (a supposed sign of bastardy). The Bastard File has cuts diagonally from top right to bottom left. See timeline 6:35
@@fingerbottom Being metal it 'cuts' the highs and not the lows where as sandpaper will conform to an irregular surface abrading the lows also. The sandpaper will flatten the surface but much less effectively or precisely.
Taking curly shavings instead of making dust is the mark of a sharp scraper. And he uses just a file! For card scrapers, I use a file and a burnisher. Im skeptical of the need for fine grits and lapping to sharpen them. But this Yankee boat builder gets great results on a pull scraper with just a file, not even a burnisher!
You can tell a lot about your tool (power or hand) by the sound it makes. With a power tool, you get a certain sound when it's running & operating correctly. If it starts to make a sound your unfamiliar with, if it starts to whine, rumble, vibrate or scrape or grind you have a problem & you better shut it down. When you sharpened that first scraper it made a certain sound & you could hear it shaving the wood fibers. When you mounted the new blade out of the box it had practically no sound at all. If I was there when you made this video I wouldn't have had to look at the blade to tell if it's sharp. The sound it made when you were working your stock is all that I would need.
I once asked my supervisor, to sign a chitty for a bastard file, he said you cannot give the girl in the office , that. i told him that files are first cut, second cut bastard and rough. maybe named for same reason a bastard sword was named,which was too long to use single handed and too short for two handed use and file because it is too rough for a fine file , and too fine for a rough file.I served my time as a blacksmith, and we used broken glass to scrape the handles of out hammers, till we got the fit we wanted
From what I've read, bastard usually means bigger than something, but not quite as big as something, e.g. a bastard sword is midway between an arming sword and a long sword. In France, they have a bread called Batard (Bastard in French), it's like a baguette but wider. Bastard file is in between the rough/coarse one and the second cut. Having said that, I've never seen a rough/coarse file in my life. Looks like it's a thing from the days long gone. Bastard files are the coarsest widely available ones, these days.
@synthesaurus I believe the blades he's using here are high carbon steel. So, harder than wood and paint, but softer than the file you use to sharpen them
Why does her not pronounce words correctly? He seems to leave our the the letter r . 😂😂I’m just playing. Always give the northerners a hard time 😂😂 nice video man
For many years I had Newfies working for me. Any word that started with an 'h', they wouldn't pronounce the 'h'; 'hose' became "ose". I would give them a hard time about it. They would try to pronounce the 'h', and it was like it was a real effort for them. Lol. At the same time, they would add an 'h' to any word that began with a vowel. 'Air' would become "hair". Lol. So 'air hose' would be pronounced "hair ose". It still makes me laugh to this day.
It depends how much you're scraping. Try holding onto a cabinet/card scraper after going for a few minutes! They can get damn hot after a bit. It gets old real fast.
The card scraper is a nice tool, especially for smaller things like furniture, but it's hard on my thumbs after a few minutes. For something bigger like a boat or a house, this type of scraper looks good
Card scrapers aren't ergonomic. You can't do a lot of work with them without destroying your hands. The scrapers he's using is a lot more ergonomic. It's a beautiful tool to work with and probably removes a lot more wood as well. Now if you want nicer (flat) results, then the way to go would probably be a scraper plane.
A file makes for a sharper edge and is easier to control. Plus you can sharpen the blade in about 15 seconds. Less time then it takes to take out the power tool and plug it in.
@@stevemeska7784 When using a scraper i always have my Makita sander because it sands faster than hand sanding so I don't have to 'take it out" As far as the sharpness goes; FAIL
This is just the best how to! Just authentic, no fat, premium instruction and demonstration! Thank you so much for being a wonderful Mentor to all who are able to watch this video!
Love this video Lou. I still have my grandfathers scraper he gave my dad. My dad gave It to me and said don’t underestimate how useful a very old tool can be. He was right. I use it all the time for smoothing wood removing finish, etc. It seems like you enjoy saying “I’m gonna pick up this little bastard” - I would too.
There's nothing like learning from someone who knows through his years of experience. 👍
Lou, you are a gift to shipwrights and woodworkers in general. I am thrilled to have this new channel available - the scraper video alone is going to save me a ton of time.
Great tip Lou! Not that it matters much, but just a little obscure knowledge about files: "Bastard" refers to the coarseness of the file. American pattern files come in bastard, second, and smooth, which are coarse, medium, and fine respectively. A "Mill" file is one originally used in saw mills and suitable for sharpening circular saw blades (not modern carbide ones of course). This mill style is "single cut" and it also has a particular shape, generally rectangular but tapered along its length. Anyway, just in case that's of interest :)
Great info, but the question is how "Bastard" got it's name? There are different theories on this matter, but I subscribe to this one: Its between "Coarse" and Second Cut" hence its the "bastard" cut. As I read, "bastard" was used originally used as "of unknown origin". But it came to know something that is not quite as big/small/long/short/etc as something else, so in a way, in between two other common things. A bastard sword, a batard (French for bastard) baguette, and finally a bastard file.
Stripping out all the fluff and using what just works. Lou is the king of making complicated things simple, what a great teacher!
I love your channels and learn a lot. I appreciate all the time, effort and thought these vlogs take to produce. Always Looking forward to the next one.
It means a lot to instruct and encourage the next generation of shipwrights and I appreciate all you do. Thank you.
Please excuse this lengthy comment. Mr. Sauzedde is right about this tool, as always! So I set out to build this “simple” tool. It is simple, cheap to make and very effective. It only took me three try’s to get it right, so here is what I learned. BTW I recommend watching his video multiple times and take notes. Videos like this say a lot with few words. The Red Devil blades are readily available on-line but hard to find locally by me. Mr. Sauzedde had the benefit of an existing tool to pattern a new one from so I had to figure this part out myself. Length of the hardwood handle should be twice the width of your palm plus an inch or so. A 5/8” thickness is perfect, the width = the blade of choice. Precisely cut the blade notch square to the handle. I cut this notch before contouring the handle. Contour the handle to fit your grip and soften the edges to avoid blisters. The mill bastard file grooves will be run perpendicular across the blade edge when sharpening the tool. About 10 strokes should be adequate. The file incline “just above your fingers” is the same angle you will draw the tool across the work. Moderate or light pressure on the work should be all you need. It may sound like I’m overstating the build but it did take me three tries maybe you see it clearer than I did. I cannot say enough about how fantastic this tool works, how quick it works. This has cut my sanding down to the irregular surfaces, edges and narrow spaces using fine grits. No dust, no noise, no batteries or extension cords just sweep up the shavings. When removing varnish, progress can be judged by observing the shavings or material removed rather than how the varnish still looks. This tool will take off very fine shavings. Note in the video how Mr. Sauzedde varies his strokes, this is important. I even used it on edge grain effectively. Enjoy!
Thank you! You filled in the gaps of specificity for the video. No need to apologize, wonderful and appreciated comment!
So glad I discovered this channel! One can never have too much Lou in one's life. Brilliant advice about the scrapers, too, Lou!
Highly appreciate your videos and passion! Hard to tell an "unknowner" why it is important how a tool feels and sounds, and why it needs to be sharpened in a certain way. I deem sustainable tool sharpening a science on its own, open to passionate people, forever unknown to strangers. Best regards from Austria
I really appreciate you teaching me how to use tools correctly.
Probably just saved each viewer here $100 in sandpaper just over the next couple years - not to mention better lungs from not breathing the sanding dust. Thank you!
Great tip. I think I've been sharpening mine for years. Going out right now and try it.
Hey Lou, I have been following you on your "Tips from a Shipwright" channel then I found this a real bonus! Love your insights and innovative ideas, such an inspiration.
I use the heck out of my scapers. I really like that you can give them a slight concave or convex edge according to your needs.
Another handy tool is a Goodell putty 'chisel'.
They are about 2 to 3 times thicker than a putty knife & very stiff. Keep them cool when sharpening & it'll maintain it's temper.
Great video & I hope someone gets some use from my tips also.
Sharing is caring!👍
Incredible video!!!
So informative, thank you very much @BristolShipwrights. This is by far the best, most succinct explanation as to why my scrapers don't work AT ALL! I kept buying new ones, hoping they'd be better than the previous. I assumed I had bad luck. I sharpened with the bastard file, but apparently I did it wrong. I was following the directions for sharpening a card scraper. Regardless.. all my scrapers all crapped out on me regardless of their medium (carbide or steel blade).
In the end I just needed to see this video!! Now I've now learned how to sharpen scraper blades correctly. I also acknowledge that the factory 'sharpened' finish on a scraper blade is PURE JUNK.
"The blade slides around on a plastic handle" - YES. I couldn't keep the blades stationary even while in a vice during attempts to sharpen the dang things. They kept wiggling around regardless of how often/tight I'd fasten the screw.
I am going to experiment by disassembling a chip paint brush and try using its handle in lieu of the original plastic one. I am going to order some new blades right now, so that I can assemble some "new" scrapers.
.....And yes, I'll properly bastardize the blades before I let them touch wood.
Regards,
Erica
Lou for president!
How could anyone possibly downvote’ something like this?
Thanks Lou. Works as advertised!
My grandfather was a beeholder. It was his most popular tool.
I love this idea
I made scrapers from handsaw blades, like 2X3, sharpened them with a stone and burnisher, but found it faster to use a file. When I worked in a antique restoration shop. Then I got 2 Red devil scrapers cleaning out a garage for a neighbour, a 1" and a 2" and they are useful I got replacement blades also. If I have some dirty wood or sanded wood, I clean it up with the scraper before cutting with a tool that I sharpened on a stone.
You, sir, are a national treasure. I love how you say "go to the band saw" like it's just a band saw. That thing is COOL. Could you give us some information about it?
IKR? That's a antique slecial treasure version of a bandsaw. You just don't see tools made with that much attention to detail any more. Nowadays, it's sheet metal with a sticker, not cast into the iron.
Sharpening starts at about 4:15
Been waiting for a long time for this. Thanks Lou!
Hey Lou, you have a new channel. Kristin at Jamestown gave me a clue. glad I found you!
Good to see you here. Thanks for subscribing.
The algorithm works well today!
I can't wait to pick up my own little bastard and start scraping. Thanks for the sharpening tip.
If you make your own handle, make sure to send us a photo and we'll feature it in an upcoming video.
The "little bastard" is the file, not the scraper. But you can call yours what ever you like.
Damn... another thing I need a band saw for. Open space is precious.
You’re a very effective teacher. Thank you.
Holy cow! A new Louis channel! This is awesome!
Excellent. Thanks
Paul Bryant at Riverside Boat Company taught me about Red Devil scrapers, I complimented him one time on his bucket of pine handle palm scrapers, much shorter handles and asked him if I could have one sometime and the next time I came to the shop he slid two across the table to me but I could tell they weren't pine and I asked him what they were made out of because I knew they weren't oak or mahogany and he said they were made out of black walnut from a tree that he cut down when he built his house up the hill from his shop in Newcastle Maine. I've used those two mahogany handled Palm scrapers to remove all the Penetrol that was on my 980 square foot log cabin because I didn't like Penetrol and those Red devil blades on the handles that I like are just perfect. The only challenge is getting screws through the Red devil blades because the metal is so hard I had to ask Paul Bryant for his special punch the time that I tried to drill it the drill bit just spun.
980 square feet of scraping certainly makes you a pro. Thanks for subscribing.
@@BristolShipwrights somewhere on RUclips I have some videos of the restoration work that went into my 1967 27-ft Norman Hodgson, WHITE LADY, his last build, a mahogany plank White oak frame striper or buggy top skeg built lobster hull.
glad i found you.
Lovely video. Nice presentation and great atmosphere in the workshop. One safety-related question: isn't it considered dangerous to use a file without a handle? A wrong move and the sharp(ish) tang can be stuck through one's hand.
Sweet bandsaw #2!
Lou, I wonder what your thoughts are on card scrapers, cabinet scrapers, and scraper planes.
I find that they are also excellent tools especially when doing larger areas, but can be more work to sharpen.
There is no arguing that your sharpening is fast and the scraper works well.
Good to see your new channel. My friends and I don't build boats (yet), but just love your skill and tricks which we apply to our wordworking.
Is the other channel going to continue?
Already is.
I find old blunt hand saws can be cut up into small sections, to make scrapers with, and they hold the all important burr very well.
That's an old bandsaw. Cast blade guard, with filigree openings! Much nicer than stamped sheet metal we get today. I like it!!
Amazing that both of the guards are intact. Not sure how old it is, but it was originally driven by a flat belt to a gearbox. Metal Saw?
@@BristolShipwrights you are right, it cannot be that old. It has blade guards! Hahaha!
What brand is that band saw? What does the writing on the upper guard say? Great video
@@NBCRGraphicDesign A Racine Tool snowflake... 1920's..ish... A great saw and look fantastic.
How nice to see you. I was afraid the virus might have got you Lou. Great videos, great talent.
"pick up the little bastard", LOL!
We used to have Skarsten scrapers to do that, I don’t know if you can still get them but I don’t care I’ve still got mine !
I have some vintage Skarsten scrapers. I don't know about original blades, but compatible blades by "HaWe" are commonly available in Luxembourg and Germany (and probably elsewhere in EU), e.g. in Hornbach chain of home improvement stores.
Thx Lou!
Thank you for showing us!
I used to take a rectangle of metal, file or grind an edge and then rub the edge with a metal bar to create a burr. I even had a ceramic stone for this once...
The advantage of an unmounted rectangle was that with two hands I could place my thumbs low on the back in the centre and curl my fingers around the two ends.
This way I can impart a slight bow in the plate and thus remove more material in the centre and not have the corners dig in.
As some one else suggests, old saw blades would be good but I used whatever bits of metal came to hand though on obviously some where better than others.
Currently I am using a paint scraper, one of those pallette knife types with a broad flexible blade but not holding it by the handle but as I have described. I used it to smooth some pallet wood. No planes or sandpaper, I got a real smooth finish just with the scraper. As pallet wood there were some deep marks which I could smooth to below the overall surface by flexing the blade. A slight depression being better than a scar or having to flat the whole surface.
These are sold by woodworking suppliers as scrapers. They also sell rods, sometimes carbide rods for rolling the burr. Stanley even had a plane used to hold a plate of steel at an angle with a screw to put the flex in the plate called a scraper plane.
In woodworking, these are called cabinet scrapers. They should be made of steel with an appropriate temper - not too soft, not too hard. Spring steel can work, but might as well buy actual (set of) cabinet scrapers, they are not expensive. Thickness is usually between 0.5 and 1.0 mm (thinner scrapers produce thinner shavings). The way to sharpen them is a bit complicated, it's more than just filing. The working end is squared to the surface using a file and sharpening/honing stones. Then a burr is rolled using a scraper burnisher (a hardened steel or carbide rod of round or triangular shape). In the end, the two working ends of the scraper have 4 usable hook-shaped burrs. These refined burrs are more like cutting edges, than the burrs left after a machining operation, that we usually want to get rid of.
In contrast, paint scraper blades, at least of the type shown, are normally filed at about 45 degrees, and that's all there is to their sharpening. As far as I know.
@@thomasarussellsr Veritas (and possibly others) steel make a scraper plane. A cool but rather expensive tool. I have a vintage Stanley #80 scraper plane, which I got very cheap on ebay, along with a vintage pump hand drill, a brace and an assortment of bits.
A simple scraper plane like Stanley #80 allow to put a curve in the blade, while more advanced scraper planes such as Stanley #112 (by now a collector's item) or the modern Veritas Scraping Plane allow also to adjust the angle that the blade is presented to the work surface.
Thank you for sharing!
Excellent video
Thanks
Love that Lou. Do you file the corners lower then the middle of the blade?
Great video. You are a master
Great video!!
Thank you very much very helpful 😃
Job well done! :-)
Maestro, "bastard" traces its name back to medieval times and the devices of British heraldry signifying rank and family associations thus this definition: > bend sin·is·ter<
/ˈˌbend ˈsinəstər/
nounHeraldry
noun: bend sinister
a broad diagonal stripe from top right to bottom left of a shield (a supposed sign of bastardy).
The Bastard File has cuts diagonally from top right to bottom left. See timeline 6:35
Billomaticus Billomaticus ah, of course, now you point it out it’s obvious.
Would it be the same concept as a card scraper, but more aggressive?
Or sandpaper?
@@fingerbottom think sandpaper without the dust.
@@fingerbottom Being metal it 'cuts' the highs and not the lows where as sandpaper will conform to an irregular surface abrading the lows also. The sandpaper will flatten the surface but much less effectively or precisely.
You can re-sharpen any carbide scraper quickly and easily by rubbing a small diamond hone on it. I'ts very quick.
Taking curly shavings instead of making dust is the mark of a sharp scraper. And he uses just a file! For card scrapers, I use a file and a burnisher. Im skeptical of the need for fine grits and lapping to sharpen them. But this Yankee boat builder gets great results on a pull scraper with just a file, not even a burnisher!
Hey RedDevil, how about a 4" & 6" blade version?🤔
You can tell a lot about your tool (power or hand) by the sound it makes. With a power tool, you get a certain sound when it's running & operating correctly. If it starts to make a sound your unfamiliar with, if it starts to whine, rumble, vibrate or scrape or grind you have a problem & you better shut it down. When you sharpened that first scraper it made a certain sound & you could hear it shaving the wood fibers. When you mounted the new blade out of the box it had practically no sound at all. If I was there when you made this video I wouldn't have had to look at the blade to tell if it's sharp. The sound it made when you were working your stock is all that I would need.
Looks like you basically traced a 1 1/2 chip brush or paint brush then cut a recess for the blade, for the handle. Brilliant!
Good stuff here. But why haven't you advertised this on Tips from?
He said, “Pick up our little bastard here...” 😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝😝
Hot stuff!
I once asked my supervisor, to sign a chitty for a bastard file, he said you cannot give the girl in the office , that. i told him that files are first cut, second cut bastard and rough. maybe named for same reason a bastard sword was named,which was too long to use single handed and too short for two handed use and file because it is too rough for a fine file , and too fine for a rough file.I served my time as a blacksmith, and we used broken glass to scrape the handles of out hammers, till we got the fit we wanted
From what I've read, bastard usually means bigger than something, but not quite as big as something, e.g. a bastard sword is midway between an arming sword and a long sword. In France, they have a bread called Batard (Bastard in French), it's like a baguette but wider. Bastard file is in between the rough/coarse one and the second cut. Having said that, I've never seen a rough/coarse file in my life. Looks like it's a thing from the days long gone. Bastard files are the coarsest widely available ones, these days.
Why can't you sharpen a carbide scrapper blade?
Edge is too hard
He is sharpening it though
@synthesaurus I believe the blades he's using here are high carbon steel. So, harder than wood and paint, but softer than the file you use to sharpen them
Bandsaw envy. Couldn't take my eyes off it. My scraper has a plastic handle. I keep it hidden.
Why does her not pronounce words correctly? He seems to leave our the the letter r . 😂😂I’m just playing. Always give the northerners a hard time 😂😂 nice video man
For many years I had Newfies working for me. Any word that started with an 'h', they wouldn't pronounce the 'h'; 'hose' became "ose". I would give them a hard time about it. They would try to pronounce the 'h', and it was like it was a real effort for them. Lol. At the same time, they would add an 'h' to any word that began with a vowel. 'Air' would become "hair". Lol. So 'air hose' would be pronounced "hair ose". It still makes me laugh to this day.
well there went the red devil sponsorship
reddevil aint got nothin on Lou.
Wait til this guy finds out about card scrapers
Tell us.
It depends how much you're scraping. Try holding onto a cabinet/card scraper after going for a few minutes! They can get damn hot after a bit. It gets old real fast.
The card scraper is a nice tool, especially for smaller things like furniture, but it's hard on my thumbs after a few minutes. For something bigger like a boat or a house, this type of scraper looks good
Card scrapers aren't ergonomic. You can't do a lot of work with them without destroying your hands. The scrapers he's using is a lot more ergonomic. It's a beautiful tool to work with and probably removes a lot more wood as well.
Now if you want nicer (flat) results, then the way to go would probably be a scraper plane.
Take a Makita GT 5010 flexible disc sander with a 50 grit
pad and run it at 45 degrees along the edge for 3 seconds.
Amateur.
A file makes for a sharper edge and is easier to control. Plus you can sharpen the blade in about 15 seconds. Less time then it takes to take out the power tool and plug it in.
@@stevemeska7784
When using a scraper i always have my Makita sander because it sands faster than hand sanding so I don't have to 'take it out"
As far as the sharpness goes; FAIL