I was just absolutely giggling with delight at how carefully this wiring is being done. I've said it before but I'll repeat it - I literally have wired up control panels for nuclear plants that weren't done this much care and planning.
Another good job done, We've just got back from a trip down the Severn to Gloucester, the basin is great, like Salford Quays and Albert dock, all bars and restaurants. Keep up the good work, I bet you can't wait.
Cheers George, Sounds great and yep we cant wait. We have heard how good it is around there from friends who live that way. Will stick it on our list 👍
Congratulations,you've done an excellent job. Personally I'd have made use of fluorescent led tube lights to get the same amount of lumins out but with much fewer individual units and simpler wiring. However each to his own, I like the idea of using led tape strip lights down the edges.
I have a tip for feeding wires through conduit. Use compressed air to blow a piece of string down the conduit, and then tape the wire to the string and pull through! easier than forcing the wire down the tube and means you have less chance of damaging the insulation. When crimping, you should not need to crimp twice as the crimpers are designed to apply the correct amount of pressure on the crimp to crush and hold the wire. I definitely agree with the heat shrink however. Coming along nicely though, keep up the good work!
As you don't usually have compressed air available in such a situation its much easier to use an electricians cable threader, that's what they're designed for after all.
@@tonycamplin8607 it was a suggestion for a solution to a problem that has no one correct answer, and was my solution to it The other question is whether they have a pull through in the first place!
I do not normally comment on technical but as a marine electrician, those cables look too small to me. are they 1mm or larger?Have you calculated the volt drop on those cables for the load? On narrowboats the lighting would normally be 4mm to keep the volt drop below 4%.
Have a check of the last vlog, if I remember correctly, gramps went through all the sizes of wire and large to small diameter. Being an avionics engineer I thought much the same as you. But 2.5mm diameter sounds like its going to be fine to me for the light runs in the ceiling
@@narrowboatmoonshine As I don't have the resistance of the line or current draw of the LED's or the length of cable, I had to guesstimate the numbers and checked against some tables I have used online. 1mm was out but 2.5 is pretty much a 50% overhead, if my numbers were any good. The magic smoke tubes should be able to contain the pressure for awhile! I believe they did some consultation with one of the boating electrics page to make sure they had the right Info. My biggest worry is that wiring coverings can react and degrade with some types of boat insulation.
@@alipuk ok. As a professional that bothers me. I’m not picking on you in anyway but the volt drop should have been calculated. I see so many channels showing people how to wire things up and very often the advice is incorrect or flawed. Lights could just have less light output. But if the same guess work is applied to pumps, inverters etc then that could be dangerous. I’m just being constructive. Send me a pm if you need some advice.
@@narrowboatmoonshine I think you mistake me for someone involved with this project in anything more than a viewer capacity. Trust me I understand exactly where you are coming from. Some assumptions I know are correct are the 12 Volts for the lights and the boat is a 60 footer. Any length calculations I did were estimated length +20%, so 30 ft run would be 36 feet for calculation purposes. Pumps and such are slightly easier to calculate as you can get data sheets and they tend to be more or less the same from manufacturer to manufacturer. Best bet have a look at the first part of the wiring and see what was done and who they have spoken to, hopefully it will reassure you that the proper calculations have been made.
Loving this,kids are brilliant and funny,you two are doing great,boats looking good👍👍👍😘😘
Cheers Carol. Thanks for watching. It was hilarious filming it. 😂😂😂
Another great vlog, quality is job one ! Cheers, Nigel
Thanks Nigel 👍
I look forward to your build vlogs every Sunday.They are interesting and informative,thanks for continuing to make the effort-Simon
Thankyou Simon, Glad you are enjoying them 👍
I was just absolutely giggling with delight at how carefully this wiring is being done. I've said it before but I'll repeat it - I literally have wired up control panels for nuclear plants that weren't done this much care and planning.
Thankyou for that, we are trying to make it bomb proof hahaha. Just pleased it worked after all that 👍👍👍
loved the "wire connection" part with the kids. LOL
It was funny filming it. Never realised 4 year olds could act so well. Not sure about Grandads acting skill though haha
Another good job done, We've just got back from a trip down the Severn to Gloucester, the basin is great, like Salford Quays and Albert dock, all bars and restaurants. Keep up the good work, I bet you can't wait.
Cheers George, Sounds great and yep we cant wait. We have heard how good it is around there from friends who live that way. Will stick it on our list 👍
LOVE the music choices.
Thanks Ant 👍
Congratulations,you've done an excellent job. Personally I'd have made use of fluorescent led tube lights to get the same amount of lumins out but with much fewer individual units and simpler wiring. However each to his own, I like the idea of using led tape strip lights down the edges.
I have a tip for feeding wires through conduit. Use compressed air to blow a piece of string down the conduit, and then tape the wire to the string and pull through! easier than forcing the wire down the tube and means you have less chance of damaging the insulation.
When crimping, you should not need to crimp twice as the crimpers are designed to apply the correct amount of pressure on the crimp to crush and hold the wire. I definitely agree with the heat shrink however.
Coming along nicely though, keep up the good work!
Great tip, We will put that one in our repertoire to use in a future vlog hahaha
As you don't usually have compressed air available in such a situation its much easier to use an electricians cable threader, that's what they're designed for after all.
@@tonycamplin8607 I have some cans of PC air duster that have enough force to get a line down.
@@alipuk A great idea but would that work on a 20M run, my cable threader is 25M long.
@@tonycamplin8607 it was a suggestion for a solution to a problem that has no one correct answer, and was my solution to it
The other question is whether they have a pull through in the first place!
That really did make me jump, loved it
🤣🤣🤣
I do not normally comment on technical but as a marine electrician, those cables look too small to me. are they 1mm or larger?Have you calculated the volt drop on those cables for the load? On narrowboats the lighting would normally be 4mm to keep the volt drop below 4%.
Have a check of the last vlog, if I remember correctly, gramps went through all the sizes of wire and large to small diameter. Being an avionics engineer I thought much the same as you.
But 2.5mm diameter sounds like its going to be fine to me for the light runs in the ceiling
@@alipuk sounds fine or calculated VD?
@@narrowboatmoonshine As I don't have the resistance of the line or current draw of the LED's or the length of cable, I had to guesstimate the numbers and checked against some tables I have used online. 1mm was out but 2.5 is pretty much a 50% overhead, if my numbers were any good. The magic smoke tubes should be able to contain the pressure for awhile!
I believe they did some consultation with one of the boating electrics page to make sure they had the right Info.
My biggest worry is that wiring coverings can react and degrade with some types of boat insulation.
@@alipuk ok. As a professional that bothers me. I’m not picking on you in anyway but the volt drop should have been calculated. I see so many channels showing people how to wire things up and very often the advice is incorrect or flawed. Lights could just have less light output. But if the same guess work is applied to pumps, inverters etc then that could be dangerous. I’m just being constructive. Send me a pm if you need some advice.
@@narrowboatmoonshine I think you mistake me for someone involved with this project in anything more than a viewer capacity. Trust me I understand exactly where you are coming from. Some assumptions I know are correct are the 12 Volts for the lights and the boat is a 60 footer.
Any length calculations I did were estimated length +20%, so 30 ft run would be 36 feet for calculation purposes.
Pumps and such are slightly easier to calculate as you can get data sheets and they tend to be more or less the same from manufacturer to manufacturer.
Best bet have a look at the first part of the wiring and see what was done and who they have spoken to, hopefully it will reassure you that the proper calculations have been made.