You are supposed to disconnect the cable and tension springs at the bell crank before adjusting the adjuster. Then you take up the internal play with the bolt at the back of the bell crank before reattaching the cable and springs. It's only at this point you use the in-cab cable adjustment to get your "Clicks". When this is done right, before connecting the cable and springs, if you actuate that little lever between the guides, you'll feel the brake bite with very little movement. The adjustment screw isn't there to take up slack in the external cable as you describe, it's for the internal linkage, which allows the strut to transfer force onto the rear mounted shoe correctly. This is why people think the modified strut (dog bone) is the answer, but it's not, just follow the manufactures technique for adjustment. Earlier Landcruiser service manuals don't instruct you to disconnect the cable and springs which is what is key. It's only around 96 and older manuals but they are all the same system) parts pretty much on 70/80/90/100/120/150 etc. The Bell crank bolt needs to be done by "feel". My guess is by only half arsing the adjustment, you find you damage the cable by over doing it all the time hence why they have a bad reputation. Once the damage is done, you just spend the next 15 years shouting at it and telling everyone how shit the handbrake is 😅
Thank you so much for the video. It has cleared up the questions I had. Being on the younger side of the spectrum I don't really know how to adjust the drum brakes. I have seen how they work, but finding a video for a 70 series with drums was not easy. But thanks to your video I will be able to give it a go. 👍
Back that cable off before adjusting the shoes! When the cable is tight, it's pulling on the shoes and leads to an ineffective handbrake and premature wear on the shoes. Adjust the cable up again after adjusting the shoes.
I think its too tight the way you have done it Toyota always recommend 7-9 clicks for landcruiser handbrakes to allow for articulation of the rear diff which can inadvertently pull the cable tight when off road and skid the rear wheels. When adjusting my 80 series handbrake I back off the cog adjusters, bring the lever up 5 clicks and then adjust the cogs again to bite against the drum and final adjustment from there at the cogs. My 80 is a 95 model (1 owner) and still has the original shoes in there with heaps of friction material left & handbrake works fine
Mate thanks for the vid. I have a question. I have the dog bone and S.E kit. and it's still shit. It's hard to know how much friction is right when trying to turn the the hub while adjusting the pads with the wheel off because when the wheel is back on the extra weight and leverage that gives you means the friction that felt right when trying to turn the hub alone is not the same as the friction needed to stop the wheel when the wheel is back on. I've just spent all day on it and it's still shit. Any ideas? I'm always worried I'll do it up too tight.
Thanks mate, yeah I understand what your saying I just do it up until it’s tight and you can’t turn it then just back it off just so the drum is slightly loose. I don’t try spinning it the whole way round because it will always grab slightly on the hand brake shoes or disc pads. The worst that can happen is it wears a bit off your hand brake shoes. I’d just experiment until you find the sweet spot.
Be prepared to do this every couple of months. Buy Dog bones and hand brake upgrade kit from Superior Engineering . Prob then adjust once a year....Maybe. Handbrake is just shit it been shit and always will be shit !
Comes down to just doing the adjustment right, if your adjusting it every couple months you must be pulling it up with a 3 foot pipe on the end of the handle and driving around with the hand brake on haha. Cheers for the comment.
I'm about to adjust them for the first time on my 79 but on my previous 95 Prado, the knurled wheel was always spinning back loose on its own. Never got around trying to secure it but not too hard, so that it could still have been adjusted through that hole.
Yep. I have the dog bone and S.E kit. and it's still shit. Hard to know how much friction is right when trying to turn the the hub while adjusting the pads with the wheel off because when the wheel is back on the extra weight and leverage that gives you means the friction that felt right when trying to turn the hub alone is not the same as the friction needed to stop the wheel when the wheel is back on. I've just spent all day on it and it's still shit.
You are supposed to disconnect the cable and tension springs at the bell crank before adjusting the adjuster. Then you take up the internal play with the bolt at the back of the bell crank before reattaching the cable and springs. It's only at this point you use the in-cab cable adjustment to get your "Clicks". When this is done right, before connecting the cable and springs, if you actuate that little lever between the guides, you'll feel the brake bite with very little movement. The adjustment screw isn't there to take up slack in the external cable as you describe, it's for the internal linkage, which allows the strut to transfer force onto the rear mounted shoe correctly. This is why people think the modified strut (dog bone) is the answer, but it's not, just follow the manufactures technique for adjustment.
Earlier Landcruiser service manuals don't instruct you to disconnect the cable and springs which is what is key. It's only around 96 and older manuals but they are all the same system) parts pretty much on 70/80/90/100/120/150 etc. The Bell crank bolt needs to be done by "feel".
My guess is by only half arsing the adjustment, you find you damage the cable by over doing it all the time hence why they have a bad reputation. Once the damage is done, you just spend the next 15 years shouting at it and telling everyone how shit the handbrake is 😅
Thank you so much for the video. It has cleared up the questions I had.
Being on the younger side of the spectrum I don't really know how to adjust the drum brakes.
I have seen how they work, but finding a video for a 70 series with drums was not easy.
But thanks to your video I will be able to give it a go. 👍
No worries mate
Legend doing the work ute now.
Will let you know my success
Cheers mate, easy simple explanation
70 series the same. My Troopy is 1997 model.Good video.
Cheers mate
VDJ 70 series are the same. Was hoping you were going to show a quicker way that what I was already doing. Thanks for your time. Cheers
Thanks for the knowledge!
Back that cable off before adjusting the shoes! When the cable is tight, it's pulling on the shoes and leads to an ineffective handbrake and premature wear on the shoes. Adjust the cable up again after adjusting the shoes.
Good info. Thanks mate.
Cheers Ill try my luck thank you
Is that 260z in the background
@@_gremsly8923 yeah I think its a 260
I think its too tight the way you have done it
Toyota always recommend 7-9 clicks for landcruiser handbrakes to allow for articulation of the rear diff which can inadvertently pull the cable tight when off road and skid the rear wheels.
When adjusting my 80 series handbrake I back off the cog adjusters, bring the lever up 5 clicks and then adjust the cogs again to bite against the drum and final adjustment from there at the cogs.
My 80 is a 95 model (1 owner) and still has the original shoes in there with heaps of friction material left & handbrake works fine
got my new lc79 and searching for this video when it only has 247km on the clock😢
Mate thanks for the vid. I have a question. I have the dog bone and S.E kit. and it's still shit. It's hard to know how much friction is right when trying to turn the the hub while adjusting the pads with the wheel off because when the wheel is back on the extra weight and leverage that gives you means the friction that felt right when trying to turn the hub alone is not the same as the friction needed to stop the wheel when the wheel is back on. I've just spent all day on it and it's still shit. Any ideas? I'm always worried I'll do it up too tight.
Thanks mate, yeah I understand what your saying I just do it up until it’s tight and you can’t turn it then just back it off just so the drum is slightly loose. I don’t try spinning it the whole way round because it will always grab slightly on the hand brake shoes or disc pads. The worst that can happen is it wears a bit off your hand brake shoes. I’d just experiment until you find the sweet spot.
Do you do this on both sides?
Yes you do.
its called a star wheel adjuster
👍
its a cog
Be prepared to do this every couple of months. Buy Dog bones and hand brake upgrade kit from Superior Engineering . Prob then adjust once a year....Maybe. Handbrake is just shit it been shit and always will be shit !
Comes down to just doing the adjustment right, if your adjusting it every couple months you must be pulling it up with a 3 foot pipe on the end of the handle and driving around with the hand brake on haha. Cheers for the comment.
I'm about to adjust them for the first time on my 79 but on my previous 95 Prado, the knurled wheel was always spinning back loose on its own. Never got around trying to secure it but not too hard, so that it could still have been adjusted through that hole.
Yep. I have the dog bone and S.E kit. and it's still shit. Hard to know how much friction is right when trying to turn the the hub while adjusting the pads with the wheel off because when the wheel is back on the extra weight and leverage that gives you means the friction that felt right when trying to turn the hub alone is not the same as the friction needed to stop the wheel when the wheel is back on. I've just spent all day on it and it's still shit.