Thanks for doing this! Way to go! And love the blue wrap! Going to be time to do the rears in the summer I imagine... Some thoughts based on my previous brake jobs: * I like the Zip ties - get those ready before. like you said. Though, if you're doing this for the first time, you'll want a friend or someone you can direct with an extra set of hands. * Even with a new car, with all the dust, it can be a dirty job and while you're in there, might want to have some brake cleaner spray handy just to clean off gunk- you're in there anyway, and if you're doing it yourself, might as well spend the time and do it right if they're filthy. * The spring clamp - definitely start with a flathead screwdriver! leverage and prying a certain way are they key. It is tricky, and in my share of removing spring clips, I can say there is a trick - but STILL not sure what it is... I just figure it out and it's annoying, but a flat head has been clutch every time! I think you start in the middle and bottom, then pry the top out and gently mallet it into place. (I bet there IS a cool tool for this too! LOL let me know when you find it!) * And make sure you apply brake grease to those metal-on-metal surfaces too! - all of them...except the friction surfaces of course - where pad meets rotor * Caliper slide bolts - Clean the heck out of and GREASE the heck out of the caliper slides! It's important for them to be able to slide freely to maximize even pressure/wear on the pads. I think that's why the dust boot is there - because there should be plenty of grease in there and you want to keep it from getting dirt/grit in there. Oh, and I found removing the caliper bolts, once fully unthreaded, will ONLY come out if you pull out WHILE turning with tension. Otherwise they'll spin all day. you pointed that out in the video, but worth repeating. It was nice to use an impact on my 525i to pull and spin at the same time - they come right out because there is rotational tension on them. * C clamp is fine, done it before, but if you're getting into this, a cheap rewind kit can be had for like $20 on amazon, then you can do the rears too, which usually require you to twist the piston as you compress it back into the cylinder. Good to have right tools for the job - they are a fraction of the cost of what they were 10 years ago. * Unless you want to chance listening to your brakes squeal loudly, you'll want to apply brake grease to the metal-on-metal surfaces / contact points. (NOT the friction surfaces - pad to rotor) * Replace rotors at the same time? Though arguably not necessary (though I've learned the hard way and had to do the job over) you might wanna think about replaceing the rotors at the same time (I believe it's recommended from the OEM). And really, how much are the parts vs. the labor, your time? And also keep in mind, that adds a bit more to the project. Have a torque wrench handy to tighten down the caliper carrior bolts - carrier is that hefty braket you didn't have to remove because the rotor wasn't replaced :-) And those two bolts are on there pretty good. But those two extra bolts are all that stand between you putting a brand new rotor on... Just my very amateur comments but hope they help someone. Well done, and thanks for your contribution. Looking forward to doing the rear pads, and flushing the brake fluid on my 2015 x1 with about 42k miles on it... PS. Super envious of the Quick Jack!
Thanks for this video. And nice wrap. The spring should pop right off if you pry it up from the middle of the brake disc. You are correct, use a flathead screwdriver.
I think that if you use two levers, one in the middle to hold it out and another on the LOWER spring part it will all just spring out without too much effort. If you are doing a full strip down, discs and pads, then you can apply lubricant to the middle parts that are stuck into the Caliper and then it's very easy. Thanks for the Video
Thanks for this info... didn't realize how absolutely easy they are to remove.... granted the first one shot across the street.... still the hour trying to pry it out before still made me feel silly when it just popped off. Lol. Thanks again.
Haha we did the same wrap on my wifes 2014 X1 right after the pandemic closed everything. That is a great color! So weird that the color my wife picked is the same color in this video seriously cool.
@@LeonardoCostaUSA kinda. The tip of it get pressed into the rotor when the brake pad gets thin enough. The wire in the tip gets cut, interrupting the circuit and that’s what makes the light on your dash light up. It’s physically ruined at that point and needs to be replaced, or else you won’t be able to reset the light. If you replace the pads before they get low enough to damage the sensor then you don’t need a new one.
Instead of prying those clips in from the ends it's easier to place the ends where they belong and pry the middle in with a screw driver or end of a ratchet on the middle against the hub. Just changed these on my wife's x1. First one was annoying but after I figured it out, it was pretty easy. Also if your sensor light on the dash goes off you must change the wear sensor cable. It becomes damaged and unusable. The error code will never go away. Guess how I found that out?
+beach3snowflake it’s called a Quick Jack. I got mine at Costco but they are sold online at other places as well. I highly recommend them. If you wouldn’t mind subscribing to my channel I would really appreciate it 😀
BMW claims that to keep the weight down of the card they made the rotors very thin. They also say the you MUST replace rotors every time yu change the pads.
+Nick Destito Only if you let the pads get worn down enough to “activate” the sensor. The sensor will be physically ground down and that’s what triggers the light on your dash. If you keep an eye on your brake pad thickness and change then before they get too low, you can reuse the sensor.
Ummm you forgot to replace your rotors, unless you turned them which is rarely done these days...you will more than likely feel a vibration when braking without turning and or replacing rotors......
+W&W C if you remove the caliper you should replace the bolts holding them on as they are one time use stretch bolts, so that adds cost. Or weakens the bolts if you reuse them.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for doing this! Way to go! And love the blue wrap! Going to be time to do the rears in the summer I imagine... Some thoughts based on my previous brake jobs:
* I like the Zip ties - get those ready before. like you said. Though, if you're doing this for the first time, you'll want a friend or someone you can direct with an extra set of hands.
* Even with a new car, with all the dust, it can be a dirty job and while you're in there, might want to have some brake cleaner spray handy just to clean off gunk- you're in there anyway, and if you're doing it yourself, might as well spend the time and do it right if they're filthy.
* The spring clamp - definitely start with a flathead screwdriver! leverage and prying a certain way are they key. It is tricky, and in my share of removing spring clips, I can say there is a trick - but STILL not sure what it is... I just figure it out and it's annoying, but a flat head has been clutch every time! I think you start in the middle and bottom, then pry the top out and gently mallet it into place. (I bet there IS a cool tool for this too! LOL let me know when you find it!)
* And make sure you apply brake grease to those metal-on-metal surfaces too! - all of them...except the friction surfaces
of course - where pad meets rotor
* Caliper slide bolts - Clean the heck out of and GREASE the heck out of the caliper slides! It's important for them to be able to slide freely to maximize even pressure/wear on the pads. I think that's why the dust boot is there - because there should be plenty of grease in there and you want to keep it from getting dirt/grit in there. Oh, and I found removing the caliper bolts, once fully unthreaded, will ONLY come out if you pull out WHILE turning with tension. Otherwise they'll spin all day. you pointed that out in the video, but worth repeating. It was nice to use an impact on my 525i to pull and spin at the same time - they come right out because there is rotational tension on them.
* C clamp is fine, done it before, but if you're getting into this, a cheap rewind kit can be had for like $20 on amazon, then you can do the rears too, which usually require you to twist the piston as you compress it back into the cylinder. Good to have right tools for the job - they are a fraction of the cost of what they were 10 years ago.
* Unless you want to chance listening to your brakes squeal loudly, you'll want to apply brake grease to the metal-on-metal surfaces / contact points. (NOT the friction surfaces - pad to rotor)
* Replace rotors at the same time? Though arguably not necessary (though I've learned the hard way and had to do the job over) you might wanna think about replaceing the rotors at the same time (I believe it's recommended from the OEM). And really, how much are the parts vs. the labor, your time? And also keep in mind, that adds a bit more to the project. Have a torque wrench handy to tighten down the caliper carrior bolts - carrier is that hefty braket you didn't have to remove because the rotor wasn't replaced :-) And those two bolts are on there pretty good. But those two extra bolts are all that stand between you putting a brand new rotor on...
Just my very amateur comments but hope they help someone.
Well done, and thanks for your contribution.
Looking forward to doing the rear pads, and flushing the brake fluid on my 2015 x1 with about 42k miles on it...
PS. Super envious of the Quick Jack!
Fantastic feedback. All very good points, thanks for taking the time to reply with additional helpful info. Oh and the Quick Jack is awesome ;)
I have also used small bungie cards from Harbor Freight in place if the zip ties.
+John Sortore 👍🍻
Thanks for this video. And nice wrap.
The spring should pop right off if you pry it up from the middle of the brake disc. You are correct, use a flathead screwdriver.
Thanks Lenny!
I think that if you use two levers, one in the middle to hold it out and another on the LOWER spring part it will all just spring out without too much effort. If you are doing a full strip down, discs and pads, then you can apply lubricant to the middle parts that are stuck into the Caliper and then it's very easy.
Thanks for the Video
Thanks for this info... didn't realize how absolutely easy they are to remove.... granted the first one shot across the street.... still the hour trying to pry it out before still made me feel silly when it just popped off. Lol. Thanks again.
Haha we did the same wrap on my wifes 2014 X1 right after the pandemic closed everything. That is a great color! So weird that the color my wife picked is the same color in this video seriously cool.
+sleek sumo great minds 😎
Really excellent video. You managed to show all steps and parts very clearly....even the cable clips...thanks
+Wilfred Sazili thank you! Hope you subscribed 😁
what is the part number for the sensor sir ??
+eric gonzalez there is a link in the description
@@HelpMeDIY ahh shoot I didnt catch that lol thanks bud
You weren’t concerned about the rotors needing to be turned or replaced while putting new pads on?
+Joe Metzger no, they were smooth (no grooves) so they didn’t need to be turned and they were still thick enough so they didn’t need to be replaced.
Great video, thanks! How did you determine it was the front set rather than the rear set?
+Eric Holder I think I just looked at the pads
Do u have to remove the caliper to replace the wear sensor in the front my pads are fine but I have a break light due to a broken sensor
+Bernie no you don’t have to remove the caliper, just the pads.
Help Me DIY appreciate it
Bernie no problem. Hope you’re a subscriber now!
Ho anche io la Bmw x1 è 84,la tua che anno è? Pe capire che la mia sia uguale... Grazie
+Mimino nerazzurro Il mio è un 2014. Prego.
Why did you replace the brake sensor cable?
+Leonardo Costa after it alerts you that means the sensor is ground down and needs to be replaced.
@@HelpMeDIY it kind a gets "burned" ?
@@LeonardoCostaUSA kinda. The tip of it get pressed into the rotor when the brake pad gets thin enough. The wire in the tip gets cut, interrupting the circuit and that’s what makes the light on your dash light up. It’s physically ruined at that point and needs to be replaced, or else you won’t be able to reset the light. If you replace the pads before they get low enough to damage the sensor then you don’t need a new one.
@@HelpMeDIY understood ✌🏻
@@HelpMeDIY thanks buddy ✌🏻
Excellent work and video. Thank You.
+E. Atilla Ozgul you’re welcome! Glad it helped.
Instead of prying those clips in from the ends it's easier to place the ends where they belong and pry the middle in with a screw driver or end of a ratchet on the middle against the hub. Just changed these on my wife's x1. First one was annoying but after I figured it out, it was pretty easy. Also if your sensor light on the dash goes off you must change the wear sensor cable. It becomes damaged and unusable. The error code will never go away. Guess how I found that out?
+Jeffrey Coombs thanks. Hopefully that will help someone get them on.
I need to replace mine, could you tag me your brake pad no? Thank you
+Arianto Ok I’m sorry but I don’t understand what you are asking me. Can you rephrase?
Hi. What type of car lift are you using? Thx.
+beach3snowflake it’s called a Quick Jack. I got mine at Costco but they are sold online at other places as well. I highly recommend them. If you wouldn’t mind subscribing to my channel I would really appreciate it 😀
what was the key you used in your 7mm socket to get out the bullet bolts? Doing this over the weekend...
Chris Conrad I used a 7mm hex socket on a standard 3/8” ratchet to remove the bolts.
BMW claims that to keep the weight down of the card they made the rotors very thin. They also say the you MUST replace rotors every time yu change the pads.
+Tom McQueen well they want to make money so they want you to do it earlier and more often than necessary.
ya Porsche says the same thing... if you have endless bags of cash I suppose but if they are still good they can be and should be re used
Does the sensor need to be replaced when doing brakes?
+Nick Destito Only if you let the pads get worn down enough to “activate” the sensor. The sensor will be physically ground down and that’s what triggers the light on your dash. If you keep an eye on your brake pad thickness and change then before they get too low, you can reuse the sensor.
Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Very Helpful.
+Valadez14 you’re welcome! Hope you are a subscriber now ;)
What brand of replacement pads should I get? I have a 2015 BMW X1 Sdrive20
+The Nigel Approach I put links in the description of the video to get you exactly what you need.
You didn't grease anything?
+ryan asselin Nah. I’ve never had a problem with squeal or anything but I know most people like to grease the pads
I was getting anxiety watching those clips get put on laugh out loud
+Ace - GT 😂 you and me both!
Ummm you forgot to replace your rotors, unless you turned them which is rarely done these days...you will more than likely feel a vibration when braking without turning and or replacing rotors......
+William I didn’t forget and I didn’t turn them. They didn’t need it. No noise and no vibrations after changing the pads :)
@@HelpMeDIY ......lol, I couldn’t be so lucky!👍🇺🇸
It's a whole lot easier to remove the whole caliper instead of this method and you don't need the 7mm odd ball sized wrench.
+W&W C if you remove the caliper you should replace the bolts holding them on as they are one time use stretch bolts, so that adds cost. Or weakens the bolts if you reuse them.
I was definitely feeling your pain watching those stupid clips.
+Jeffrey Coombs ✊
I think your wife is an aggressive driver or you live in the mountains!
+C. White haha she can drive ;)
Hello, can you download a video tutorial on cleaning the environment stone and opening the oxygen sensors for BMX 1 2012