Looks like you're doing good. I don't have the book, but I do have a Powerglide I bought a while ago out in the shop. I might start tearing mine down with you. My guess is that mine is also running the darn 1.82s and needs some help. That's why I pulled it back out. It does have the larger input shaft. Darn, I just remembered I sold my 3500 stall converter to a guy on eBay. Did I miss the part about cutting off the bell housing? In place of that Powerglide, I put a 6L90 out of a 3/4 ton Express Van. Now I've got really low, lows and really high, highs! It has double overdrive that gives my old 70 car better highway speed than it ever had before.
I have three videos on the Powerglide build up so far. The second episode I cut the bell housing off and went over how I did it.I just did some machine work on the hi clutch piston so everything should be ready to assemble this weekend!!! Ill keep everyone posted. -Dane
Like the series, just started one myself. I have the rear pump glide and want to delete it if it helps with performance. Knew to this stuff so any info would be appreciated. You choose BTE products for your build, what was the reasoning behind your choice? Are there products good? I was on their website a couple of months ago and checking out the prices. What power lever are you running in your car? I will be putting mine behind a 5.3 and a 7875 Vs with a sloppy stage 2 pac 1218 springs. Fuel pumps 2 walbro 450's 10an feed 8an return. I heard that the first thing that needs to be changed in a stock glide is the Imput shaft and the sun gear, what have you learned so far. Thanks for the entertainment. Bradley
I have made 650WHP so far with no issues. I did end up getting a new planetary form BTE as well as governor delete. I would recommend an input shaft, servo, kevlar band, and the 6 clutch upgrade for what your doing. Also buy real transmission assembly lube its better than what I did in the video and its not too expensive and you'll have it for a long time. New pump gears are cheap insurance as well.
No its not required for the trans brake. I had to modify the case to make the trans brake work tho. I drilled tow holes that intersect witch I is how the fluid engages reverse I think. My transmission did not have the rear pump in it but if it did it would not be used. You also get rid of the governor when you put a manual valve body in. Im guessing the new valve body I installed wont even feed that part of the transmission anymore anyway. This is for racing application. If you were rebuilding it you would put all these things back in. I am still learning tho so if im wrong please let me know. -Dane
@@Burndown I guess I should have asked if the rear pump was left in could the car still be towed and push started or does the rear pump become inoperative . Sorry for my poor choice of words.
The 1.76 were found in all the six cylinder powerglides, seems backwards I know, but thats the way the factory did it. also you'll notice the 1.82 is in a stamped steel housing whereas the 1.76 is in a cast iron housing.
As far as I know the 1.76 is the stronger gear set and was in the powerglides that were behind big blocks and some 6 cylinder trucks. The 1.82 was more common and was behind most 6 cylinder cars as well as the small v8 cars. Mine is out of a Chevelle that had a small block in it. It looks like it was rebuilt at some point and was actually in good shape. It also had an extra friction added already so someone was doing some hot rodding with it.😁 Are you in So Cal? I have a transmission spot that may have another one. If not just call around to any local transmission parts place if you have one in your area. -Dane
I looked at three others besides mine when I was looking a week or so ago. All were 1.82. I got my info out of the book I bought. You could in fact be right but I just replied with what I read. The 1.76 seem harder to find to me than the 1.82
Mine did not have a rear pump but they make a block off plate or if you get a governor support it will do the same. I would get the roller support and call it a day.
Question. I'm I 65 yr old diy er. Lol. Powerglide. JW case and bell. Pro tree brake. Sometimes. Not always. Wen brake applied on starting line. Car Sometimes rolls forward 1. Maybe 2 in. Wth is my problem. Do u know
I’m not a pro but I would say adjust your band and see if that helps. If not check your line pressure to see if you have other issues or a worn band. Good luck man!
@@Burndown @victortrimble4741; Victor Trimble, perhaps You can contact the same transmission people Dane Paul posted above [Transmatic Transmission Parts] or one local to You to describe Your issue(s), problems and discuss solutions, further assessment, evaluation, recommendations ?
@@Burndown Dane Paul @joseluisgonzalez; Jose Luis Pro Tips: As all machinists, amateurs, novice individuals know from basics within metal [& wood] working: A. use a drill press or similar fixture for a hand operated drill for proper, precise, accurate, exact drilled holes B. use a drop or tiny squirt of oil [machine, motor or similar (not WD-40)] on the metal to be drilled for reduced friction, proper metal drilling C. Thoroughly read, re-read instructions until each step is well comprehended, known, planned properly Note: We had good to excellent individuals within Industrial Education [IE] subject course, which properly taught, educated, instructed, trained us within extensive practice, operation, guidance, development within Our Public School education during 7th & 8th Grades during early through 1970's, over 50 years ago [for me specifically 1971-3] including wood, metal working, basic electricity, electronics, assembly, soldering, wiring, etc. All The Best, Sincerely
Can you let us know the diameter of the 1.76, and the diameter of the 1.82, so while we are looking for one, we know we have the one we're looking for?
Its even easier than that. The 1.76 will have a fine spline output shaft and the 1.82 will have less teeth. The 1.76 will fit a th350 yoke as well. I found one at the yard I get motors from so when I pick it up ill answer more on this. The 1.76 is a larger diameter than the 1.82 but not by too much.
Badass love the 60 chevy and the parts in your background shots power glides rock I use the cast iron ones and early 62 chevy aluminum ones
This is my first transmission build but it seems like its going well. Guess I will know when I try to drive the thing.
Looks like you're doing good. I don't have the book, but I do have a Powerglide I bought a while ago out in the shop. I might start tearing mine down with you. My guess is that mine is also running the darn 1.82s and needs some help. That's why I pulled it back out. It does have the larger input shaft. Darn, I just remembered I sold my 3500 stall converter to a guy on eBay.
Did I miss the part about cutting off the bell housing? In place of that Powerglide, I put a 6L90 out of a 3/4 ton Express Van. Now I've got really low, lows and really high, highs! It has double overdrive that gives my old 70 car better highway speed than it ever had before.
I have three videos on the Powerglide build up so far. The second episode I cut the bell housing off and went over how I did it.I just did some machine work on the hi clutch piston so everything should be ready to assemble this weekend!!! Ill keep everyone posted.
-Dane
Like the series, just started one myself. I have the rear pump glide and want to delete it if it helps with performance.
Knew to this stuff so any info would be appreciated. You choose BTE products for your build, what was the reasoning behind your choice? Are there products good?
I was on their website a couple of months ago and checking out the prices.
What power lever are you running in your car? I will be putting mine behind a 5.3 and a 7875 Vs with a sloppy stage 2 pac 1218 springs. Fuel pumps 2 walbro 450's 10an feed 8an return. I heard that the first thing that needs to be changed in a stock glide is the Imput shaft and the sun gear, what have you learned so far.
Thanks for the entertainment.
Bradley
I have made 650WHP so far with no issues. I did end up getting a new planetary form BTE as well as governor delete. I would recommend an input shaft, servo, kevlar band, and the 6 clutch upgrade for what your doing. Also buy real transmission assembly lube its better than what I did in the video and its not too expensive and you'll have it for a long time. New pump gears are cheap insurance as well.
Why do you want to disable the rear pump? Is it required for the trans brake?
No its not required for the trans brake. I had to modify the case to make the trans brake work tho. I drilled tow holes that intersect witch I is how the fluid engages reverse I think. My transmission did not have the rear pump in it but if it did it would not be used. You also get rid of the governor when you put a manual valve body in. Im guessing the new valve body I installed wont even feed that part of the transmission anymore anyway. This is for racing application. If you were rebuilding it you would put all these things back in. I am still learning tho so if im wrong please let me know.
-Dane
@@Burndown I guess I should have asked if the rear pump was left in could the car still be towed and push started or does the rear pump become inoperative . Sorry for my poor choice of words.
Where’d you find the 1.76? I’m building a glide myself and happens to have the weak 1.82
The 1.76 were found in all the six cylinder powerglides, seems backwards I know, but thats the way the factory did it. also you'll notice the 1.82 is in a stamped steel housing whereas the 1.76 is in a cast iron housing.
As far as I know the 1.76 is the stronger gear set and was in the powerglides that were behind big blocks and some 6 cylinder trucks. The 1.82 was more common and was behind most 6 cylinder cars as well as the small v8 cars. Mine is out of a Chevelle that had a small block in it. It looks like it was rebuilt at some point and was actually in good shape. It also had an extra friction added already so someone was doing some hot rodding with it.😁
Are you in So Cal? I have a transmission spot that may have another one. If not just call around to any local transmission parts place if you have one in your area.
-Dane
I looked at three others besides mine when I was looking a week or so ago. All were 1.82. I got my info out of the book I bought. You could in fact be right but I just replied with what I read. The 1.76 seem harder to find to me than the 1.82
Yessir I’m in reseda (SFV) I’ll look around! Thanks for the reply
@@ro_pews Look up Transmatic Transmission Parts. Give him a call.
TSR for the win
I need to know what hole to block off for the rear pump I'm building a shorty and need to block off the rear pump. thank you
Mine did not have a rear pump but they make a block off plate or if you get a governor support it will do the same. I would get the roller support and call it a day.
I set the pump in the case backward without the outer seat to aline the two halves.
Kevin Brown Yes that is a good little trick!
Question. I'm I 65 yr old diy er. Lol. Powerglide. JW case and bell. Pro tree brake. Sometimes. Not always. Wen brake applied on starting line. Car Sometimes rolls forward 1. Maybe 2 in. Wth is my problem. Do u know
I’m not a pro but I would say adjust your band and see if that helps. If not check your line pressure to see if you have other issues or a worn band. Good luck man!
@@Burndown
@victortrimble4741; Victor Trimble, perhaps You can contact the same transmission people Dane Paul posted above [Transmatic Transmission Parts] or one local to You to describe Your issue(s), problems and discuss solutions, further assessment, evaluation, recommendations ?
Omg I cringed when the drill locked up. Gave me flash back of a time when a drill locked up and spun a metal pierce around and sliced my finger hahaha
I was just hoping I didnt ruin my case🤣
@@Burndown Dane Paul
@joseluisgonzalez; Jose Luis
Pro Tips: As all machinists, amateurs, novice individuals know from basics within metal [& wood] working:
A. use a drill press or similar fixture for a hand operated drill for proper, precise, accurate, exact drilled holes
B. use a drop or tiny squirt of oil [machine, motor or similar (not WD-40)] on the metal to be drilled for reduced friction, proper metal drilling
C. Thoroughly read, re-read instructions until each step is well comprehended, known, planned properly
Note: We had good to excellent individuals within Industrial Education [IE] subject course, which properly taught, educated, instructed, trained us within extensive practice, operation, guidance, development within Our Public School education during 7th & 8th Grades during early through 1970's, over 50 years ago [for me specifically 1971-3] including wood, metal working, basic electricity, electronics, assembly, soldering, wiring, etc.
All The Best, Sincerely
were did you get the book for $17.00
Amazon if I remember correctly
Can you let us know the diameter of the 1.76, and the diameter of the 1.82, so while we are looking for one, we know we have the one we're looking for?
Its even easier than that. The 1.76 will have a fine spline output shaft and the 1.82 will have less teeth. The 1.76 will fit a th350 yoke as well. I found one at the yard I get motors from so when I pick it up ill answer more on this. The 1.76 is a larger diameter than the 1.82 but not by too much.
@@Burndown I found it. 1.76=1.170", 1.82=1.145" both have a 27 spline output shaft, and use the same yoke.
how can I get a couple of stickers
Follow me on IG and send me a DM. Ill mail you a couple!!
Thanks for your support.
-Dane