View-Master Stereo-Matic 500 Vintage 3D Projector - How Does it Work?
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- This is a 1950's vintage home 3D projector for view-master reels. With this you could share your 3D view-master photos with friends and family - all in amazing 3D. But, how does it work? I'm going to try and get this one to work and find out.
More View-Master videos on my other channel: ViewMasterTravels.com
Hi, I enjoyed your video, which was very nicely done. I'm in my eighties and I got caught up in the 3-D movie craze back in 1952 to 1954. I loved 3-D movies so much that I bought a Stereo Realist camera, with the matching stereo viewer. Eventually, I saved up enough money to buy a Realist 3-D projector and aluminized screen. Although the term "silver screen" was popular back in those days for all films, I called 3-D screens aluminized screens, because that was more accurate. I bought a Realist stereo camera, because the Realist system had higher image resolution than the Viewmaster system. That's because the Realist camera used most of a 35mm film frame for each one of the stereo images. I also had the kit required to cut and mount 35mm film into stereo slides. The Realist mounting system also allowed the stereo window to be moved during mounting, which allowed for 3-D close-ups, and also allowed me to place people or objects in front of, or behind the screen when the slide is projected. I was able to hang on to the camera and projector for many years, but I eventually lost the screen. Remember, I've been hauling this stuff around for 70 years. After I lost the screen, I found that I could spray a wall, or large piece of cardboard, with ordinary aluminum spray paint and use that as my screen, because the aluminum paint reflected polarized light without depolarizing it. It was a cheap way to always have a 3-D screen. Eventually, I lost the projector, but I still have my Stereo Realist camera with the viewer and some of the stereo slides I took. Incidentally, back in the day, home projection screens were divided into two types, powered glass screens and aluminized lenticular screens. The aluminized screens were embossed with tiny ridges to improve the viewing angle, thus the name lenticular was used. I mention this, because in searching for a vintage silver screen for your projector, you might have better luck searching for a lenticular screen. You will find that modern 3-D glasses won't work with your projector, because today most 3-D glasses are circularly polarized. I now own a 3-D video projector that allows me to show 3-D Blu-ray movies on an ordinary white screen, because the "active" glasses use LCD shutters to alternate right-left transparency in sync with the projector, which toggles the stereo pair at high speed. Most of the great 3-D movies form the fifties have been restored by the 3dfilmarchive, and they are available on 3D Blu-ray, so I can relive the 3-D movies from my youth today. I also have a 3-D video camera that makes 3-D video for this projector, so I'm making new 3-D memories in the 21st Century, only now my 3-D pictures move and have sound.
Thanks for watching - could idea spray painting cardboard with aluminum spray :-)
This is great! I felt like a kid again watching an exciting episode of Bill Nye the Science Guy.
Thankyou for this. The first in depth video I've seen so far on this model. Nice work.
Nice wedding pictures. Congratulations!
Cool old piece of technology Davetaradavetara, thank you for showing us.
Always wanted one of these projectors. Very sophisticated, not some cheap product that's for sure. Pity i couldn't witness it for real like you can. Very well enplaned as to how the correct screen is important.,
Very, very, veeeeeeeery cool video. As a big 3D buff, you certainly made me smarter today! Thank you.
Glad I could help!
Great video, Dave -- Thank you. Your explanation of polarization was particularly informative. And yes, as LibertarianRepublican pointed out, this is a well-constructed projector and MADE TO LAST! Those were the days when things were made solidly; this is indeed has a steal body. Typically, projectors from the 35mm cinema projectors down to the small, 8mm projectors for home, used a crinkle finish paint on the metal body. As of a few years ago, you could still get that paint as a spray-on from, I believe, Rust-o-lium. It was kind of a traditional thing in the movie industry. Same type was used on the cameras as well.
When I was a kid, i saved up my lawn-mowing money for months to buy the ViewMaster Junior projector. It was ok, but it sure wasn't THIS projector, which I couldn't afford. I had just seen my first 3D movie -- THE HOUSE OF WAX -- with my mom and I couldn't get over what I was seeing and FEELING -- feeling the space BETWEEN the objects in the image. I made my poor mom sit thru the film a second time, and when I didn;t want to leave even for the third run, she had had enough and told me my dad would come pick me up. I was enamored of this marvelous thing called 3D. Since then, of course I dreamed of getting this ViewMaster 3D model, but never could afford it. I wanted to be able to see those ViewMaster slides IN 3D projected in my home theatre in the basement, long before anyone ever heard of such a thing as a "home theatre"! I learned all I could about 3D and how it was able to let you feel space; to me it was stereo for the eyeballs...even better...more impressive. I have been a 3D fan ever since.
This is a beautifully constructed instrument. I have been looking for a used one now for a few years. I want to change out that very hot incandescent bulb and instead of having a single light source, I see there is plenty of room to use LED chips, one in front of each aperture. That would eliminate the two side mirrors, allowing even more light thru to the film for an even brighter image. LEDs produce much less heat so they can deliver much more light without damaging the film. Then instead of polarization, I want to use the active shutter system because that is what my video projector 3D system uses. I can put LCD shutters in front of each of the projector lenses that will only one image to be seen by the viewer thru their shutter glasses. The Left eye will only see the Left image and the Right eye will only see the Right image sequentially. Actually I think the polarization system is a better one, but I am using white screen so I can only use the active shutter system... this is all predicated, of course, if I can find one of these beauties for sale.
Very nice projector, thanks for sharing.
Chosen as the most wonderful video seen last time. I love View Master world, in fact I have a 2D projector (I have two), I had bakelite viewer, and light viewer too. Many reels, many titles.
Well, this 3D projector for me is something new, never seen before. I can notice the quality of manufacture, all metal same a 8mm projector maybe. Even the shape paint texrurized, super used in that era.
I have Dial for Murder CD, filmed in 1955, a 3D movie wich must to be projected in a silvered screen due polarized filter get down lighting, same problem lile you had on your video. hehehe
Sorry my English 🤭
Huggs from Santiago, Chile SouthAmerica 🇨🇱
Thanks for the comment!
There is circular polarization and linear polarization. The projectors likely have linear polarization, and movie glasses have circular polarization. In order for the 3D effect to work the polarization type of the glasses needs to match the projector (be linear as well).
Yes, that's true - and when you use this 3D projector with the linear polarization you have to keep your head level.
Wow, I think you solved a problem I didn't actually have!
I just acquired one of these projectors, and in testing it out I couldn't get both image focus and alignment at the same time. I aligned the frame both vertically (left side lever) and horizontally ("focus" wheel), but continued to have double-images - even WITH polarized glasses. I thought there was some misalignment of the lenses or mirrors, but you demonstrated that my problem is that I have no proper screen. THANX! ~ ~ ~ Uh-oh! I have to take that back... I tried projecting onto a piece of glass, and still have a double image. I think this is not a polarization issue, after all. The image is not just slightly off-focus, there is a distinct GAP between all the lines of the image(s). There MUST be some issue with mirror or lens alignment.
Does anyone have any experience or solution to this issue? I really want this to work properly.
From what I understand - the alignment and focus are combined with the single wheel - and there was a special View Master reel for focussing the projector. I think that special reel was just a regular reel with no images in it (i.e., just empty squares) - and you were supposed to use the focus reel to move the images of the two squares on top of each other. Then the left hand lever is supposed to rotate the wheel properly so that each pair of images advance in alignment. I do find, sometimes, that if the reel is worn out you might have to grab the top of the reel in the projector and slightly wiggle it while looking at the screen to see if you can fine-tune the alignment.
Another thing I notice is that your 3D glasses have to be level on your head and you have to hold your head straight. If you tilt your head to the left or right the 3D effect is lost (because the polarization is "linear" not "circular". Also, you have to make sure you're wearing "linear" polarized glasses.
What I'd do project a reel onto any screen and use the wheel to scoot the two images and try and line up the borders of the images as best you can. If you can't get them aligned even by turning the wheel as far as it goes, you might have to move the projector further away from the screen/mirror. There's probably a minimum distance it will work from.
Hope that helps...
@@davetaradavetara Thanx for your response, but... My projector has the instructions, and I did align the square vertically and horizontally. That is what leaves the extreme double image. I can align the image - which puts the frame out of alignment - but even then, the image is fuzzy. (I don't recall whether I tried the glasses in those instances. Maybe I'll have to give that a go.) I actually have a dozen Polaroid 3-D glasses designed for viewing 3-D images. They make no difference at all.
I had thought about a minimum distance. I don't know what it is, but I'd not expect it to be TOO great, as this is intended for home use. I tried it at a short distance in my kitchen, then at a longer distance (maybe 15'?) in my living room, but the disparity in every condition seemed the same.
I guess I'll have to set it up again and be sure to try the glasses with the IMAGE converged and see whether THAT looks right. If it does, it still means my mirrors or lenses are not lined up...
PS- I thought I'd mention that, according to paperwork I found with this unit, a previous owner purchased new mirrors for it back in, 1969, I think it was. Any way he could have installed them wrong? ... Even if so, it seems odd nobody would have corrected it during the ensuing 55 years!
I noticed they are held in place by spring tension in little brackets. If I can't find any better suggestions, I may end up pulling them off and fiddle with them...
You're right the minimum distance isn't that bad. I use mine about 6-8 feet from the screen and it focuses well. If at around that distance it's always fuzzy no matter how you move the focus wheel then I'd agree that something's out of alignment inside. Good luck!
This is a terrific video! Do you know where I can get a replacement power cord for the Stereo-Matic 500 and/or someone to clean and refurbish our projector? My husband has this projector, an original camera, the reel maker, a box of 2d glasses, and boxes & boxes of his own reels. It would be so cool for our grandchildren to be able to view the reels using the projector! Also, do you have any suggestions for how to repair warped reels?
I'd check 3dstereo.com - or there's resources on my other site vmdatabase.com
The only thing I can think for warped reels would be to press them between heaver books, maybe?
Is this machine yours or borrowed? It's really nice! What a Beautiful Vintage Machine!
I worry though that when the bulb burns out what then? Being Vintage, you need it original.
I am really impressed with its image quality and your video is really good!
I hope it is still popular enough that someone makes a replacement bulb.
I am a Stereographic Artist. I paint in 3D using a mouse believe it or not.
If you like 3D, look up '3D Lois Lane 97 Tribute to Curt Swan' for an example. It took me about a week.
(3dfantasys or 3dmacphee) Your video is really well done Dave.
Thanks :-) It's mine - I did buy a second bulb for it, just in case. The image quality in person is really excellent - and I think the limitation is the screen itself - you can see the screen texture when you're too close - otherwise, it's great.
Glass molecules do not create a repeating crystal structure, that is why it is classified as a liquid (contrary to what people might tell you about it's viscosity). Try 3M schotchlight. It has a narrow viewing angle, but it is extremely bright and clear within the viewing area.
Lost technology, Thank God we still have Peter Dinklage.
Damn dude, last video 8 years ago? Nice new one, though.
Yeah, that's true :-) Lots of alt-history videos on a different channel though -
ruclips.net/channel/UCm4JkWbu0FlL4EWeGklMHPA
I found a black version of this but no case cover. Is black more rare or anything? Also can you use any 3D glasses or no?
Black is very rare - check eBay "sold" prices. You can't use just any 3D glasses though - they have to be older kodak horizontally polarized glasses.
So because you didn't have a silver screen it didn't show in stereo?....Because I couldn't see a stereo image out of any of this.....Unless it looks good in person.....I was thinking about getting a Stereo-Matic 500 but if this is as good as the images get,for as much as they want for a unit,I think I'll have to pass.....Good video.👍
Yes, you need a silver screen to see stereo, and it’s only stereo if you’re looking at it in person. The picture quality on a good clean screen is very good and the stereo is excellent, as long as you focus properly.
Do you have a recommendation on a brand of silver screen?
Not really - they're really hard to find. The ones with actual silver in them often have "silver" in their name - like "Da Lite Silver Flyer" - which I found on eBay pretty cheap.
I've been considering transferring view-master slides into a RUclips slide show. Does anyone have a suggestion of the best way to produce a clear transfer of slides into pics?
My best so far are done with a 35mm slide adapter and a SLR camera. But it’s taken some experimenting with lenses and light sources etc.
The view master NEVER used thus technology or or would you get 3D through the hand viewers.
It was not a true 3D it was 2 separate images shot at slightly different angles... Hence the double images on the reel...
The 2 images just have to overlap at the correct distance that's what the adjustment is for.....
View master actually sold a camera with 2 separate lenses at different angles
Yes, the pictures I show of the wedding were photographed with that camera. Each little picture is cut out of the negative and was mounted onto the view-master reel.
I have one of these. The fan is VERY noisy and you need pola glasses to correctly view the image. I have an original instruction manual as well. It is a fascinating piece of vintage technology.
Yes, the fan is extremely noisy - almost too loud to talk over.
Light isn't emitted from the screen, it's reflected. Your screen depolarized the light by scattering it. Old screens use to be painted with aluminum and were metallic gray in color, that is the origin of the term "Silver Screen". If they had been painted with silver they would have been very expensive. You really ought to do more research before you make videos.
Also, the large wheel on the top between the lenses is focus. Polarizers are filters, not lenses.
I think I see your confusion - to your point, at 8:23 I do say the "light reflects off the screen". The reference at 9:23 to light being "emitted" is the light being emitted by the electrons in the molecules of the screen - that's how "reflected" light actually works at a sub-atomic level.
Here's an explanation on how "reflected" light is actually emitted light -
physics.stackexchange.com/questions/83105/explain-reflection-laws-at-the-atomic-level
does this work with the polarised glasses from passive 3d tvs? they look awesome quality for the age. dont think facebook pics look that good
I'm not sure - it might, as long as they were horizontally polarized. Or you can probably get ones that will for sure work from 3dstereo.com