Quick tip to fix your bubble problem, you can add a coat or 2 of polyurethane before you add the epoxy and the poly will seep down into the pores sealing them up and it can be sanded to a smooth finish if you want before adding the epoxy. BTW those countertops look amazing and you have definitely got something to be proud of there! Keep up the good work!
I wonder if anyone has done a similar project and used seal coat shellac? Seems a few coats of that might help, maybe? You See, I have a similar project coming up with 100 year old white oak, but I won’t be using epoxy. Any suggestions for finish. It is a big kitchen table. Any comments on OsmoCoat?
@@MJ-nb1qn using a nice polyurethane base to seal it then adding a 50/50 mix of boiled lin seed oil and bees wax you can polish it to a nice finish that's food safe, fairly durable and cheaper than epoxy.
I would have never used such a dark stain. But i was pleasantly surprised with the finish. Looks awesome. Also it makes perfect sense because your walls are a lighter color , and the contrast is beautiful. Plus , momma bear is happy and thats all that matters.
I completely agree with the dark stain. I think it was the wrong choice. I have always loved White Oak because you actually do not need to stain it at all. When the top coats go on, the White Oak takes on a beautiful honey color and is so much easier to maintain. Not all woods will do that. Red Oak, for example, looks harsh and brassy without some stain. Just my two pennies.
The “pot holes” are just conversation pieces, I have a great deal of admiration for anyone that can tackle such a large project with the most basic shop tools. Awesome job Sir. Congratulations and remember, you simply do not need a MASTER workshop to turn out MASTER work. Again, very impressed.
That counter is gorgeous, good job. I think only some people will get this comment, but my hobby is wood, I love raw materials, and I love stain!- it brings me back to my childhood and fond memories of my dad and I’m 52. Years ago you made your counter top Out of butcher block which was expensive back in 197@/1980”s, my favorite is birch, walnut, brazallian walnut and any hard wood I can sand and stain
if you want to achieve a professional looking flat finish on porous woods, you must fill the grain before finishing. there are two methods. first you can fill the grain with the finish you are using. this is not a very practical approach when finishing with epoxy as it involves sanding back to bare wood between coats of finish until the grain is filled. this is very time consuming method if you are not using something like a precat lacquer that is sanding dry in 15 minutes and sands very easily. forget sanding back epoxy, not an option. the second method, and the one that would work in an epoxy application is to fill with a grain filler before staining. on something large like this, i would use a hardwood flooring grain filler like bona that flows very easily. it trowels much like the way you applied the epoxy. let it dry, and sand back to bare wood. then stain and finish. as far as the cupping of your top. bracing is not going to be strong enough unless it is steel. there are a few ways of preventing this, and one way of dealing with it. obviously to prevent something like this the wood should be properly dried to something between 8 and 12 percent. and even in that case, with good dry lumber, you should alternate the end grain orientation from board to board. so if you look at your slab at 11:30 and you will see from left to right the first 3 boards share the same orientation, while the last 2 share the opposite. now sometimes this can cause issue and sometimes its a nonissue. personally, i dont worry so much about my board orientation as i am choosing faces for their character/aesthetic, but it can be an issue with thick tops. most common issue for cupping tops is not finishing both sides of the slab. that thick coat of epoxy puts a lot of tensile stress on the top surface. the bottom should be finished in the same way to equalize that force and prevent deformation. a good method of mitigating a cupped top is to make a series of kerf cuts on the underside of the top, along the grain, the entire length of the top. google kerfkore plywood images and you will see what i mean. make the cuts about 3/4 the depth of the top and make them about 1/2 apart. you can do this with a circular saw and a straight board, just make sure that the cuts remain parallel to the edges of the top as well as each other. this will relieve enough material allowing you to flatten the slab with bracing or simply by screwing it to the cabinets, or sometimes allowing it to flatten out under its own weight. only problem is you would have to remove the top, and reinstall.
You are not only a carpenter !! You are a wood doctor and a professor of carpentry. I created a very, very beautiful masterpiece. I believe that a thousand professionals are unable to implement it with this beauty. Greetings to you from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.
Don't feel bad. My epoxy countertops did the same thing. I struggled with it for several weeks and then changed brands of epoxy. That did the trick. Good job meeting that deadline!
Thanks for sharing such a great, complex project! I think it turned out well, maybe not to your expectations, but I think character was born, and a job well done sir! Again, thanks for sharing!
Another tip is what builders of small boats and canoes are using. They often preheat the wood before puting epoxy on. The reason for that is that the air in the wood expands and then you put the epoxy on and the wood cools the air in the wood shrinks and the wood start to suck epoxi in to the wood instead of start bubbling. And I agree with the others who thinks you should have treated the underside. But I really liked your projekt so keep it up! Greetings from Sweden!
I am with you. I understand after seeing the Pine paneling. I wouldn't have had the heart to stain it that dark. You have to admire the beautiful kitchen.
like to see it after 1 year. Epoxy is soft and you can see every scratch easily. Anyway, I admire what you have done and the big efforts spent on this countertop.
I've built a few small boats, and learned that there is a way to deal with the bubbles, which are caused by off-gassing. Here's what works really well: bring your shop up to temperature, and then let the temp begin to fall. As the temp falls, the wood will reverse its off-gassing, and now is the time to apply the epoxy, as the wood will suck it in rather that push it out, eliminating the bubbles. Or, lightly sand between coats and roll the second coat on with a epoxy roller from a boat supply store, such as West Marine. This works for small boats and the finish comes out very nice and smooth.
Nice 👍. To eliminate those bubbles, either seal it with Varnish or a thin coat of epoxy. Had this happen to me. Now that I seal the timber on both sides I've had no problems. All part of the learning process. Cheers from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 👍 😁
Sure this is some fine wood to be just wasted.. personally I try to waste zero wood as much as I can, always keeping in mind that this was a tree (or trees) that got cut down so I can do my thing
I'm glad to see you wearing your eye protection. So many people I work with and have worked with in the past don't wear them. Rather silly if you ask me. I've seen to many videos in shop class back in the day to know better.
Those imperfections are yours and only yours you only know where they are, keep them a secret other people will see only what you tell them. It's perfect for the average person most likely will see something in question and tell themselves, "how artistic." I think it's beautiful nice to see how dedicated to the project you are, that must have felt amazing once you all set it in and finished off the sink. Excellent!! Don't be so hard on yourself, think of the Brillant food that's going to be made there for your family and friends all the best Cheers!! and just enjoy!
yep sealing will help reduce bubbles and a small torch can rid bubbles better than the heat gun ( it's not quite hot enough ) GORGEOUS COUNTERTOP ... and i love it when your wife sees it in place ! that's the best feeling !!
Mate !! That's what you call, "But, I made this" if someone points it out. Not some factory made slab that was brought from a retail shop. Stand up and have pride in what your done. A awesome timber-gain top will always command respect.
Mack you are dead nuts on. Two passes with a grain filler, sanding in between, and a static temp (no applied heat) for a day before the pour would eliminate any chance of gassing. The end product was amazing.
Awesome fine job! Just a FYI - - a coat or two of sand and sealer before the epoxy would have probably made your counter top turn out like you wanted. Me and my podnuh own a TimberKing 1600 and do all sorts of projects incl building his new home currently - on the Bayou. You did good and thanks a million for sharing!!
pre-seal the wood with a thin layer of the same epoxy and a sponge brush on porous materials like wood. Then pour the epoxy on the next day when dry. It helps with preventing large air bubbles with end results.
The most important thing is that your number one client loved it, so congratulations! Here's a few constructive comments to help with your future projects: 1. Spend time straightening the edges of the boards so they'll mate together better. 2. Get yourself some heavier clamps, as it's very important that the edges are firmly held together during the glue-up. 3. To reduce the possibility of warpage, finish the underside of your countertop with at least one coat of the same finish you're using for the top face. 4. To get a better finish, after your first coat of epoxy has set, sand it down (P80), then fill any voids (usually caused by bubbles) with epoxy, then sand out all imperfections with P120 grit sandpaper. You'll have to lay down another coat of epoxy to deal with any remaining problems, after which - you guessed it - you should sand again with a finer grit (P220) so that you don't sand through the epoxy. Once the epoxy has fully cured, give it another, fine grit sanding (P220) then top it off with a high quality varnish. Nice bandsaw mill!
Better clamps are indeed in order. squeeze type are just not going to give you the pressure you need. A screw type clamp will be far more dependable and won't skip or back out if the resistance is too great. I agree with Marty too on the biscuits or dowels. Unless the wood was kiln dried, it is going to shrink some for a while. Overall though, that is a mighty fine looking counter and you ought to be proud of the job well done.
Thank you very much from France, I'm redoing an old countryside house and looking for inspiration. turns out the epoxy finish is a bit too shiny for my taste, but I still learned a lot from this video, fanastic craftmanship, bravo!
Regardless that your wife likes it, that could change when your hard work starts to come undone. Yes, you used Tite Bond, but in just a few years' time you'll have small voids between the boards you've laminated together because they are going to continue drying out. Regardless of Thanksgiving, I would have taken at least another week to finish this project. Biscuit joints, even simple dowels would have prevented or slowed the eventual separations you will see. I also agree entirely with other commenters who said you should have put at least a thin coat of epoxy on the underside. As for the top, two ultra-thick coats a day apart is begging for disaster. A half dozen thin coats would have given you a much more beautiful finish. Now before you think I'm a total curmudgeon, I must thank you for your honesty and for sharing this.
Gussy, regardless of-the stupid response you are on the money. When the timber does react to the conditions they are going to be very disappointed and pissed off as it won’t be able to be repaired.
I'm glad someone else has mentioned those points. Hopefully they will learn from this and the next table will be able to last longer when properly done.
My points are completely valid. Thousands of experienced woodworkers, young or old, would unquestionably agree. I suspect that with such a vitriolic defence, DeWitt is actually the video's creator.
Enjoyed the video thank you. The comments are a valuable asset for me. I learn from both the positive and negative comments. You did a super job. Again thank you
I've got 3 boxes of Hickory pre finished flooring I've been wanting to make new counter tops with. Seeing your counter top and the wood you have used in your kitchen is really nice!!!!
I do epoxy all the time on river tables and some countertops.. I usually do three really thin seal coats of epoxy and then I a fload coat.. rule of thumb is 1oz of epoxy per square foot on seal coats and 3 oz per square foot on fload coats.. I usually add a little extra on the fload coat to make sure it doesn't have thin spots.. but a light sanding between seal coats and it normally seals.. if not I keep doing seal.coats until it seals.. really expensive but looks great when it lays out like glass..
I either use stone coat countertops epoxy or if I'm trying to save money I've tried almost all the different brands and promarine on Amazon is the best less expensive epoxy ive ever found.. but if I'm doing river tables and need a deep pour casting epoxy I always buy stonecoats deep casting epoxy..
Thank you for sharing the blemishes as well as the beauty. I know what you're feeling very well when a project doesn't go your way. You should be really proud of all you've accomplished!
I used the west system now, I have used others but had the best luck with the west system. Only draw back it’s sooooooo expensive. Here in New Jersey in the states one day it could be 60 degrees F with 40 percent humidity and next day it could be 80F with 100 percent humidity. So the west system is very forgiving with that type of weather.I always put poly as finishing coat good luck
I learned early on, if I'm laying a clear coat resin on to any type of bare wood, always spray a seal coat first. Never had trouble with bubbles since.
go over to Next Level Carpentry and build a set of his Journyman's Sawhorses. At the end of the vid he stress tests 1 pair, and they stop adding weight at 15,000 #'s (yes fifteen thousand pounds) .. you only need 6 2x4's and some select constructions screws, they stack and they are easy to cary.
I very much enjoyed your video! Even tho it’s not 💯 % how you wanted it it’s a great guide to people like me. And your baby and family was definitely a nice touch! Since I have a 9 month old! LoL
Great video and great job, don't think of the bubbles as a mistake, they give it character. Own it. I was thinking of getting a granite counter top, I may have to build one of them myself. Good job again.
Isn't that the truth happy wife happy life I pissed mine off after 30 years and she left me over a big house that she no longer wanted happy wifey happy life e
I'm afraid this worktop will fail. It will curl upwards at the outer edges. It is a principle of finishing timber that the same finish should be applied to the underside as to the top, otherwise there will be a differential uptake of moisture on one side compared with the other. Putting braces on the underside will actually make things worse, because you will have grain crossing. Timber expands and contracts across its grain, but (almost entirely) not along it, so with seasonal changes in temperature and humidity, the braces underneath will remain the same length, whereas the worktop itself will seek to get wider or narrower. This inevitably leads to cupping or splitting. To do this properly, take it off again and out to the workshop. Run relieving cuts along the length of the underside, two thirds of the depth of the timber, and two per board. Then encapsulate the underside in epoxy to match the top. It'll probably still fail, because you have no idea of the moisture content of the timber, but at least you'd have a better chance than you have now. I'm afraid this video is pretty much a "how-not-to-do-it" lesson.
One approach for stiffeners is to use angle iron with slots instead of holes for the screws; don't tighten the screws too much and the countertop will be allowed to expand and contract seasonally with moisture. The screws on one side or the center can be holes and fixed tight. That will help with the warping though direction will largely be dictated by grain; the alternating cup up and cup down method is important to avoid large scale warping. I concur bIscuits would help provide a longer life. I've done solid hardwood plank top counters before as a base for barrier, lath, portland cement plaster and tile. That counter still looks good at 30 years old. In my present home I switched to double layers of Hardyboard and big tile.
I have that Porter Cable circular saw in 8 1/4", what a great saw, still use it to make preliminary cuts before employing my track saw. Beautiful finished product dude.
A tip for people doing expoy/resin pours on tables, If you want to remove bubbles easily just spray the surface lighlt with rubbing alcohol and the bubbles will dissapeaer
Hey buddy looks great, what a beautiful kitchen! You experienced “out gassing” which occurs when the timber is heating up with the air around it causing expanding air from the timber to push the resin out. Always complete epoxy coatings in a falling air temperature.
Is that the same for ANY epoxy project or just large projects such as tables etc? I'm considering making an epoxy river countertop for my bar and something like this would really wind me up because it wouldn't be right in my eyes and 'I'd always know' it wasn't quite perfect.
@@Dan_TheMedic - "out gassing" can occur any time you apply epoxy over wood where the ambient temperature is increasing. The secret is to apply the epoxy when the temperature is falling.
While the wood counters are a fun addition to the kitchen, yes I agree some sanding to get rid of the bubbles is needed. ALSO I would add some shelving on that wall. Im not sure why you didnt put the sink where the window was. There are two nice windows to view while doing dishes. allowing alot more cabinet space for that wall that is full of wood. I would add more cabinets to the wood wall or shelving at the very least. You can never have too much storage~ More cabinets :)
After staining, it’s always best to seal porous timber with a fine coating of bees wax/linseed oil mix before applying epoxy coat, to prevent air bubbles.
Wow that looks great I thought about making a kitchen countertop after making a wood (hickory) top for my bathroom vanity. My wife was afraid one of us, probably me, would put a hot pan on the epoxy. The vanity has been is service for eight years now. I didn't epoxy the bottom and it is as flat as the day I installed it. But if I did it again I would just in case. Great video, thanks.
Stone Coat Epoxy recommends two coats at 1oz per sq ft sanding between then a thicker flood coat at 3 oz per sq ft to get a gloss finish. Love the oak!
Tip. When gluing up strips like that what you want to do is look at all the ends at one end and look at the end grain. You want the cup on each piece to be opposite to the one next to it. One piece you want the grain cupping down and the next cupping up. This will keep the end product flat and the whole piece won’t cup.
When I epoxied my Southern Yellow Pine countertops, I had to brush an epoxy prime coat on all sides of the countertop. I poured the final coat within two hours as required. All bubbles came out with a torch. Very happy with the results. I have a suggestion for your countertop, put lots of stuff on it like cutting boards, canisters, a breadbox, etc. Before you know it you will not see any imperfections. Enjoy
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Quick tip to fix your bubble problem, you can add a coat or 2 of polyurethane before you add the epoxy and the poly will seep down into the pores sealing them up and it can be sanded to a smooth finish if you want before adding the epoxy.
BTW those countertops look amazing and you have definitely got something to be proud of there! Keep up the good work!
I think if using the poly you need to add a day of drying time.
@@onedrop7967 depending on the polyurethane, yes. Some quick drying urethane can be done in about 2-3 hours.
I wonder if anyone has done a similar project and used seal coat shellac? Seems a few coats of that might help, maybe? You See, I have a similar project coming up with 100 year old white oak, but I won’t be using epoxy. Any suggestions for finish. It is a big kitchen table. Any comments on OsmoCoat?
@@MJ-nb1qn using a nice polyurethane base to seal it then adding a 50/50 mix of boiled lin seed oil and bees wax you can polish it to a nice finish that's food safe, fairly durable and cheaper than epoxy.
i like using shellac for sealing.
I would have never used such a dark stain. But i was pleasantly surprised with the finish. Looks awesome. Also it makes perfect sense because your walls are a lighter color , and the contrast is beautiful. Plus , momma bear is happy and thats all that matters.
I completely agree with the dark stain. I think it was the wrong choice. I have always loved White Oak because you actually do not need to stain it at all. When the top coats go on, the White Oak takes on a beautiful honey color and is so much easier to maintain. Not all woods will do that. Red Oak, for example, looks harsh and brassy without some stain. Just my two pennies.
The “pot holes” are just conversation pieces, I have a great deal of admiration for anyone that can tackle such a large project with the most basic shop tools. Awesome job Sir. Congratulations and remember, you simply do not need a MASTER workshop to turn out MASTER work. Again, very impressed.
@Doctor Buga lol
That counter is gorgeous, good job. I think only some people will get this comment, but my hobby is wood, I love raw materials, and I love stain!- it brings me back to my childhood and fond memories of my dad and I’m 52. Years ago you made your counter top Out of butcher block which was expensive back in 197@/1980”s, my favorite is birch, walnut, brazallian walnut and any hard wood I can sand and stain
if you want to achieve a professional looking flat finish on porous woods, you must fill the grain before finishing. there are two methods. first you can fill the grain with the finish you are using. this is not a very practical approach when finishing with epoxy as it involves sanding back to bare wood between coats of finish until the grain is filled. this is very time consuming method if you are not using something like a precat lacquer that is sanding dry in 15 minutes and sands very easily. forget sanding back epoxy, not an option. the second method, and the one that would work in an epoxy application is to fill with a grain filler before staining. on something large like this, i would use a hardwood flooring grain filler like bona that flows very easily. it trowels much like the way you applied the epoxy. let it dry, and sand back to bare wood. then stain and finish.
as far as the cupping of your top. bracing is not going to be strong enough unless it is steel. there are a few ways of preventing this, and one way of dealing with it. obviously to prevent something like this the wood should be properly dried to something between 8 and 12 percent. and even in that case, with good dry lumber, you should alternate the end grain orientation from board to board. so if you look at your slab at 11:30 and you will see from left to right the first 3 boards share the same orientation, while the last 2 share the opposite. now sometimes this can cause issue and sometimes its a nonissue. personally, i dont worry so much about my board orientation as i am choosing faces for their character/aesthetic, but it can be an issue with thick tops. most common issue for cupping tops is not finishing both sides of the slab. that thick coat of epoxy puts a lot of tensile stress on the top surface. the bottom should be finished in the same way to equalize that force and prevent deformation.
a good method of mitigating a cupped top is to make a series of kerf cuts on the underside of the top, along the grain, the entire length of the top. google kerfkore plywood images and you will see what i mean. make the cuts about 3/4 the depth of the top and make them about 1/2 apart. you can do this with a circular saw and a straight board, just make sure that the cuts remain parallel to the edges of the top as well as each other. this will relieve enough material allowing you to flatten the slab with bracing or simply by screwing it to the cabinets, or sometimes allowing it to flatten out under its own weight. only problem is you would have to remove the top, and reinstall.
Sean Wimpfheimer That is loads of good information. Thanks for taking the time to type it all!
Great information
Lots of people like the wood finished with the porous and wormy finishes left exposed . Nothing nicer than wormy butternut !
My guess is you have a ton of woodworking experience, wow! Thanks for sharing!!!!
Can I hire you?
You are not only a carpenter !! You are a wood doctor and a professor of carpentry. I created a very, very beautiful masterpiece. I believe that a thousand professionals are unable to implement it with this beauty. Greetings to you from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.
Don't feel bad. My epoxy countertops did the same thing. I struggled with it for several weeks and then changed brands of epoxy. That did the trick. Good job meeting that deadline!
That baby looks so happy climbing all over daddy's table.good job n nice counter top.really looks great.happy wife happy life.love that deep sink.
Thanks for sharing such a great, complex project! I think it turned out well, maybe not to your expectations, but I think character was born, and a job well done sir! Again, thanks for sharing!
Another tip is what builders of small boats and canoes are using. They often preheat the wood before puting epoxy on. The reason for that is that the air in the wood expands and then you put the epoxy on and the wood cools the air in the wood shrinks and the wood start to suck epoxi in to the wood instead of start bubbling. And I agree with the others who thinks you should have treated the underside.
But I really liked your projekt so keep it up!
Greetings from Sweden!
AHHHHH!! I cried a little when that dark stain went onto that beautiful white oak!
I am with you. I understand after seeing the Pine paneling. I wouldn't have had the heart to stain it that dark. You have to admire the beautiful kitchen.
NOW, that's measuring twice and cutting once...very nicely done. bravo on the video...thumbs UP.
like to see it after 1 year. Epoxy is soft and you can see every scratch easily. Anyway, I admire what you have done and the big efforts spent on this countertop.
Looks great! You done the most important thing. You made momma happy
I've built a few small boats, and learned that there is a way to deal with the bubbles, which are caused by off-gassing. Here's what works really well: bring your shop up to temperature, and then let the temp begin to fall. As the temp falls, the wood will reverse its off-gassing, and now is the time to apply the epoxy, as the wood will suck it in rather that push it out, eliminating the bubbles. Or, lightly sand between coats and roll the second coat on with a epoxy roller from a boat supply store, such as West Marine. This works for small boats and the finish comes out very nice and smooth.
Great you show the real life. Not all things go perfect. Thanks for sharing. It looks wonderful.
Nice 👍. To eliminate those bubbles, either seal it with Varnish or a thin coat of epoxy. Had this happen to me. Now that I seal the timber on both sides I've had no problems. All part of the learning process. Cheers from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 👍 😁
Live and learn! Appreciate the tips!
Yep. Needed a seal coat first.
Glenn Cobern same here i seal both sides from encountering the same and now no more problems
Yayyyy Tasmania! I was there in 1986 with the US NAVY. Hobart.
Would a grain filler followed by shellac effectively seal oak,? Can shellac be used under epoxy?
As someone who works with wood as a hobby and never done anything this size before, this countertop came out amazing! Great job!
That cutout would make a nice matching cutting board. Merry Christmas!
Sure this is some fine wood to be just wasted.. personally I try to waste zero wood as much as I can, always keeping in mind that this was a tree (or trees) that got cut down so I can do my thing
How blessed you are to have a nice shop and cool tools. 🙏 Thanks for sharing your video! 👍
Nice to watch a project without background music
Bill Gooch I love the fact that he doesn’t use background music. It’s more enjoyable to hear the wood working sounds
I'm glad to see you wearing your eye protection. So many people I work with and have worked with in the past don't wear them. Rather silly if you ask me. I've seen to many videos in shop class back in the day to know better.
Those imperfections are yours and only yours you only know where they are, keep them a secret other people will see only what you tell them. It's perfect for the average person most likely will see something in question and tell themselves, "how artistic." I think it's beautiful nice to see how dedicated to the project you are, that must have felt amazing once you all set it in and finished off the sink. Excellent!! Don't be so hard on yourself, think of the Brillant food that's going to be made there for your family and friends all the best Cheers!! and just enjoy!
yep sealing will help reduce bubbles and a small torch can rid bubbles better than the heat gun ( it's not quite hot enough ) GORGEOUS COUNTERTOP ... and i love it when your wife sees it in place ! that's the best feeling !!
Mate !! That's what you call, "But, I made this" if someone points it out. Not some factory made slab that was brought from a retail shop. Stand up and have pride in what your done. A awesome timber-gain top will always command respect.
The counter top really looks great. I love wood projects that lets the natural grain show through, even if stain is used.
A grain filler my help with those pock marks.Especially with oak.
Have a great night and Thank you for making this video
Mack you are dead nuts on. Two passes with a grain filler, sanding in between, and a static temp (no applied heat) for a day before the pour would eliminate any chance of gassing. The end product was amazing.
Nice job and you have a beautiful family.
Especially the wonderful and beautiful child.
Good job I love your work I’m learning and having a good time watching your vids. Keep them coming 👍 and God Bless you and your family
Looks awesome dude! Maybe seal the bottom of the countertop. That way it will take moisture more evenly.
Awesome fine job! Just a FYI - - a coat or two of sand and sealer before the epoxy would have probably made your counter top turn out like you wanted. Me and my podnuh own a TimberKing 1600 and do all sorts of projects incl building his new home currently - on the Bayou. You did good and thanks a million for sharing!!
Nice to see you have your little helper in the shop
pre-seal the wood with a thin layer of the same epoxy and a sponge brush on porous materials like wood. Then pour the epoxy on the next day when dry. It helps with preventing large air bubbles with end results.
A good attempt, you need bar clamps and a good cabinet saw. That portable table saw was laboring something fierce. Good learning experience.
My husband wanted to do jobs like this. Although he was talented man, he passed away from agent orange complications from Viet Nam.
Great work!
Absolutely beautiful.
Organic materials always come with nuances that add character.
It beats plastic any day of the week and twice on Sunday.
The most important thing is that your number one client loved it, so congratulations!
Here's a few constructive comments to help with your future projects:
1. Spend time straightening the edges of the boards so they'll mate together better.
2. Get yourself some heavier clamps, as it's very important that the edges are firmly held together during the glue-up.
3. To reduce the possibility of warpage, finish the underside of your countertop with at least one coat of the same finish you're using for the top face.
4. To get a better finish, after your first coat of epoxy has set, sand it down (P80), then fill any voids (usually caused by bubbles) with epoxy, then sand out all imperfections with P120 grit sandpaper. You'll have to lay down another coat of epoxy to deal with any remaining problems, after which - you guessed it - you should sand again with a finer grit (P220) so that you don't sand through the epoxy. Once the epoxy has fully cured, give it another, fine grit sanding (P220) then top it off with a high quality varnish.
Nice bandsaw mill!
Better clamps are indeed in order. squeeze type are just not going to give you the pressure you need. A screw type clamp will be far more dependable and won't skip or back out if the resistance is too great. I agree with Marty too on the biscuits or dowels. Unless the wood was kiln dried, it is going to shrink some for a while. Overall though, that is a mighty fine looking counter and you ought to be proud of the job well done.
Thank you very much from France, I'm redoing an old countryside house and looking for inspiration. turns out the epoxy finish is a bit too shiny for my taste, but I still learned a lot from this video, fanastic craftmanship, bravo!
Brush on the first coat of epoxy. Let it completely dry and then pour and no more porous bubbles. 444
I was thinking the same thing, or use a light coat of urethane Poly to seal it first.
Totally agree. Glad do see and learn on how not to ruin my own work. I know a lady who is a bit more demanding.
Your hard work and precise measures produced a fine countertop. Your family will enjoy many Happy Thanksgivings using that countertop.
Regardless that your wife likes it, that could change when your hard work starts to come undone. Yes, you used Tite Bond, but in just a few years' time you'll have small voids between the boards you've laminated together because they are going to continue drying out. Regardless of Thanksgiving, I would have taken at least another week to finish this project. Biscuit joints, even simple dowels would have prevented or slowed the eventual separations you will see. I also agree entirely with other commenters who said you should have put at least a thin coat of epoxy on the underside. As for the top, two ultra-thick coats a day apart is begging for disaster. A half dozen thin coats would have given you a much more beautiful finish. Now before you think I'm a total curmudgeon, I must thank you for your honesty and for sharing this.
You are a total butthead. You sound as if you're the perfect /person alive. Thank you for your insight oh great one, troll
Gussy, regardless of-the stupid response you are on the money. When the timber does react to the conditions they are going to be very disappointed and pissed off as it won’t be able to be repaired.
@@dm2781632 another "know it all" He's not claiming to be the world's best wood worker. Go troll on the kids channel, you old goat
I'm glad someone else has mentioned those points. Hopefully they will learn from this and the next table will be able to last longer when properly done.
My points are completely valid. Thousands of experienced woodworkers, young or old, would unquestionably agree. I suspect that with such a vitriolic defence, DeWitt is actually the video's creator.
Nice Job!! Looks awesome. I think the bubbles add to its character!!
At 6:40 somebody sure looks like his daddy. One happy little man. Happy Thanksgiving.
Very nice looking countertop. In fact the whole kitchen looks terrific, it has a look of inviting warmth. Very nice.
Beautiful! As they say, if you can't tell from a galloping horse you're good!
Enjoyed the video thank you. The comments are a valuable asset for me. I learn from both the positive and negative comments. You did a super job. Again thank you
Absolutely stunning, happy wife happy life. Happy Thanksgiving 🦃🍽🍁 to you and your family and friends take care my friend god bless
The counter top looks great but I like the kid best.
Thanks, Donald!
I've got 3 boxes of Hickory pre finished flooring I've been wanting to make new counter tops with.
Seeing your counter top and the wood you have used in your kitchen is really nice!!!!
I do epoxy all the time on river tables and some countertops.. I usually do three really thin seal coats of epoxy and then I a fload coat.. rule of thumb is 1oz of epoxy per square foot on seal coats and 3 oz per square foot on fload coats.. I usually add a little extra on the fload coat to make sure it doesn't have thin spots.. but a light sanding between seal coats and it normally seals.. if not I keep doing seal.coats until it seals.. really expensive but looks great when it lays out like glass..
Where do you purchase the Epoxy you use?
Great tips! Thank you!
I either use stone coat countertops epoxy or if I'm trying to save money I've tried almost all the different brands and promarine on Amazon is the best less expensive epoxy ive ever found.. but if I'm doing river tables and need a deep pour casting epoxy I always buy stonecoats deep casting epoxy..
Thank you for sharing the blemishes as well as the beauty. I know what you're feeling very well when a project doesn't go your way. You should be really proud of all you've accomplished!
Looks really nice. It passed the inspector so be happy. lol
Yep, that's all that matters!
I thought it would be something it was 1:45 meaning gray aged surface.
Nice work! I think the little divots add character. Your kitchen looks great!
Man the best part of the video was when you and your dad mounted the countertop..
Nice work!!
Thank you for not playing music in your video. The top looks great!
Awesome job! Happy Thanksgiving to your family from mine!!
Thank you!
I have to say I enjoy watching all of your videos.
What a great job! A whole family loves that and that is what you live for.
That looks really good. Nice work 👍 lovely family too
Boy, I would love a detailed video on the use of epoxy. I still use urethane and lacquer. Hello from Thailand
Frank Cherry check out laggari epoxies they have detailed applications
I used the west system now, I have used others but had the best luck with the west system. Only draw back it’s sooooooo expensive. Here in New Jersey in the states one day it could be 60 degrees F with 40 percent humidity and next day it could be 80F with 100 percent humidity. So the west system is very forgiving with that type of weather.I always put poly as finishing coat good luck
Felicitaciones .. hermoso tu hijo .. quedo muy linda .. desde ARGENTINA
HAPPY NEW YEAR and may GOD bless all your endeavors
Tks for sharing your family, wonderful video!!!
brush on a seal coat of epoxy let it dry halfway the do second pour - also do all sides so it does not warp.
Great job, beautiful family and really like the kitchen 🥰
I learned early on, if I'm laying a clear coat resin on to any type of bare wood, always spray a seal coat first. Never had trouble with bubbles since.
Fall Line Ridge the counter top turned out soo pretty I just love it . Thanks for the video be blessed with love care and grace.
I like it but you definitely need some sturdier saw horses.
go over to Next Level Carpentry and build a set of his Journyman's Sawhorses. At the end of the vid he stress tests 1 pair, and they stop adding weight at 15,000 #'s (yes fifteen thousand pounds) .. you only need 6 2x4's and some select constructions screws, they stack and they are easy to cary.
I very much enjoyed your video! Even tho it’s not 💯 % how you wanted it it’s a great guide to people like me. And your baby and family was definitely a nice touch! Since I have a 9 month old! LoL
Beautiful project. I would consider using splines in the board edges despite the strength of modern glue.
Great video and great job, don't think of the bubbles as a mistake, they give it character. Own it. I was thinking of getting a granite counter top, I may have to build one of them myself. Good job again.
The only thing that matters is she likes it. And yea it looks awesome good job
Wow!, really good tabletop and your great skill. Good video.
When mama's happy everyone's happy. Nice job
Isn't that the truth happy wife happy life I pissed mine off after 30 years and she left me over a big house that she no longer wanted happy wifey happy life e
Working with full dimension lumber of that length is a real pain, but incredibly rewarding. Amazing work man
I'm afraid this worktop will fail. It will curl upwards at the outer edges. It is a principle of finishing timber that the same finish should be applied to the underside as to the top, otherwise there will be a differential uptake of moisture on one side compared with the other. Putting braces on the underside will actually make things worse, because you will have grain crossing. Timber expands and contracts across its grain, but (almost entirely) not along it, so with seasonal changes in temperature and humidity, the braces underneath will remain the same length, whereas the worktop itself will seek to get wider or narrower. This inevitably leads to cupping or splitting.
To do this properly, take it off again and out to the workshop. Run relieving cuts along the length of the underside, two thirds of the depth of the timber, and two per board. Then encapsulate the underside in epoxy to match the top. It'll probably still fail, because you have no idea of the moisture content of the timber, but at least you'd have a better chance than you have now. I'm afraid this video is pretty much a "how-not-to-do-it" lesson.
Yup. Experience is expensive. On every project, your either winning or learning. Short-term win, but long-term complete redo.
One approach for stiffeners is to use angle iron with slots instead of holes for the screws; don't tighten the screws too much and the countertop will be allowed to expand and contract seasonally with moisture. The screws on one side or the center can be holes and fixed tight. That will help with the warping though direction will largely be dictated by grain; the alternating cup up and cup down method is important to avoid large scale warping. I concur bIscuits would help provide a longer life. I've done solid hardwood plank top counters before as a base for barrier, lath, portland cement plaster and tile. That counter still looks good at 30 years old. In my present home I switched to double layers of Hardyboard and big tile.
No. Oak and steel don't mix. Any steel in contact with oak needs to be stainless, and that includes screws.
@@MikeAG333 Good point, Mike. I work in maple and cherry and forgot about oak and steel corrosion.
always do to the top what you do to the bottom :)
It turned out beautiful. I know your wife is happy with that!!!
The piece you cut out for the sink would make a perfect matching cutting board.
Fisher Man 37 That’s what i was about to say! Please tell me he didn’t throw it away or burn it.
Great job ,looks like you are one good carpenter, would like to see more of your projects,
Awesome craftsmanship. Recommend thinner coats of epoxy resin when coating. May take longer but less pot marks. I learned the hard way too.
Nice piece of woodworking. The finish is high gloss, beautiful.
Also, do a very thin precoat to fill in/seal the wood for thicker pour
Sir, great job! It’s beautiful and you did it your self and your family loves it.
That gap between the boards hurt more than the sanding to my ears
and the stain..... it hurt my soul.
Looks like he had all the tools to mill the wood perfectly square too and just decided to only go halfway.
I’ll loose sleep over that gap
Yeah but when you’re filling with epoxy does it really matter?
@@brandoncarver4494 I like the color, but if you want walnut - get walnut.
I have that Porter Cable circular saw in 8 1/4", what a great saw, still use it to make preliminary cuts before employing my track saw. Beautiful finished product dude.
A tip for people doing expoy/resin pours on tables, If you want to remove bubbles easily just spray the surface lighlt with rubbing alcohol and the bubbles will dissapeaer
great job, dude. Well Done.
Men, men, men, men....men, men, men men....We are men, we're wonderful, men, men, men ,me.....
Hey buddy looks great, what a beautiful kitchen! You experienced “out gassing” which occurs when the timber is heating up with the air around it causing expanding air from the timber to push the resin out. Always complete epoxy coatings in a falling air temperature.
Would kiln dried oak helped the bubble situation
@@joeyward8844 No. See Kevin Agee's comments above.
Is that the same for ANY epoxy project or just large projects such as tables etc?
I'm considering making an epoxy river countertop for my bar and something like this would really wind me up because it wouldn't be right in my eyes and 'I'd always know' it wasn't quite perfect.
@@Dan_TheMedic - "out gassing" can occur any time you apply epoxy over wood where the ambient temperature is increasing. The secret is to apply the epoxy when the temperature is falling.
maybe heat the wood up good and hot before applying
While the wood counters are a fun addition to the kitchen, yes I agree some sanding to get rid of the bubbles is needed. ALSO
I would add some shelving on that wall. Im not sure why you didnt put the sink where the window was. There are two nice windows to view while doing dishes. allowing alot more cabinet space for that wall that is full of wood. I would add more cabinets to the wood wall or shelving at the very least. You can never have too much storage~ More cabinets :)
After staining, it’s always best to seal porous timber with a fine coating of bees wax/linseed oil mix before applying epoxy coat, to prevent air bubbles.
Wow that looks great I thought about making a kitchen countertop after making a wood (hickory) top for my bathroom vanity. My wife was afraid one of us, probably me, would put a hot pan on the epoxy. The vanity has been is service for eight years now. I didn't epoxy the bottom and it is as flat as the day I installed it. But if I did it again I would just in case. Great video, thanks.
Stone Coat Epoxy recommends two coats at 1oz per sq ft sanding between then a thicker flood coat at 3 oz per sq ft to get a gloss finish. Love the oak!
Fantastic job! Lovely wood. Rustic looking too.
Tip. When gluing up strips like that what you want to do is look at all the ends at one end and look at the end grain. You want the cup on each piece to be opposite to the one next to it. One piece you want the grain cupping down and the next cupping up. This will keep the end product flat and the whole piece won’t cup.
Good tip!
Nice work brother ,God bless ya and your family !
Try adding a sanding sealer first and then your epoxy finish.
I was going to suggest this...
You read my mind. Never used a sealer except at work. I was shocked at the color. I hated it at first, but the epoxy made it great.
If you made it and not bought it, more power to you and your skills, not many out there that can do what you do 👍
When I epoxied my Southern Yellow Pine countertops, I had to brush an epoxy prime coat on all sides of the countertop. I poured the final coat within two hours as required. All bubbles came out with a torch. Very happy with the results. I have a suggestion for your countertop, put lots of stuff on it like cutting boards, canisters, a breadbox, etc. Before you know it you will not see any imperfections. Enjoy
This countertop looks great! I agree if the lumber was dried in a kil maybe it would had fewer air bubbles.........Great Job
You really need to 'seal' the other side. Otherwise, it's going to warp like crazy !
yep, huge mistake...
Actually my experience is that the exposed side tends to dry more, so leaving the downside unsealed may counteract that warping.
So, good move.
@@janhemmer8181 interesting how your experience differs from all the others... are you from "down under" where everything is turned upside down?
@@satman1w I agree, first slabs/lumber needs to be kiln dried to 6-8% moisture max. then you seal bottom with any sealer not necessary to be epoxy.
Hi everybody. Congratulations very good job and very good helpers 😁🤝👏👍God bless you and your family and God bless the USA 🙏🇺🇸🤝👏👍🇺🇸🇺🇸