Hii, for those who wondering about a condensed version, I might start editing after this week so let me know if you want that ! 👀 My apologies about discord notifications, problem fixed for finals !
- Palms marks on Janja's butt :3 - "Alex has left his DNA on the wall" - Ai's attempts on the last boulder deserved an attention. - Orianne's reaction on her teammate cheering 😁 - Desperately needed a separate cam on setters' faces during all this 🌚 PS: @savie591, you're the savior 🙏🙏🙏
" what else could she have done?" Eat more, work on her leg strength and jumping power. But of course, then she would be a little bit heavier and her finger strength to weight ratio would be slightly less impressive than it is. If some climber had no way of doing a boulder because her fingers were not strong enough to hold a bad crimp, would you also complain?
@@DunklerVater 3cm is huge for catching a crimp. Basically extra 2 phalanges of a finger. Also how about reach (foot to finger distance)? Overall it seemed that the whole 1st boulder just could've been moved 10cm down or so. Though this is not what you want to/have time to do once it's almost set 😁
Route setters really did a bad job, could feel the enthusiasm of the crowd draining with all the failures. Over-compensating for an easy qualifying round isn't fixing the problem it's just compounding it. Shame for the athletes and spectators.
Because you know that Ai Mori would climb away from everyone if she could only reach the holds, you have to slow her down in a different way. That's a shame. The route setter team knows exactly how big she is. Intelligent route setters do not exclude small climbers.
all these comments are tedious really because you know that is not true. her weakness has always been her lack of dynamicism/power. she has always been a static and safe climber which is why she is so good in lead. This won't change because route setters has to also think about setting for tall climbers. like many has said Mao also started normally. its not about the 3 cms. if you look at it carefully she is not fully stretched between the two starting holds she is just not jumping as high as Mao. As a short climber myself I know that is my weakness and that's why I try to train my legs. Not saying Ai is not doing that but it's just how the game is. I used to really like her but it seems like so many non-climbers fans off her who watch nowadays always blame it on her height- and that's such a put off. she doesn't even do that herself.
Спорт
you are lifesaver💪💪
Thank youu
Hii, for those who wondering about a condensed version, I might start editing after this week so let me know if you want that ! 👀
My apologies about discord notifications, problem fixed for finals !
Thank you. To me it's not important. I can just skip :)
Just very happy to have the full version.
i prefer the full version!!!
Full version please
Fast as lightning! ⚡ Thanks a lot, IFSC is always blocking content for Spain 😢
Glad I could helped you ! 🙌
Anotherone from Spain here! Thanks ❤
@@pamelacorvino406 you're welcome guys :)
Thank you for the full replay this time ❤❤
You're welcome, enjoy the show 🎉
dude! Thank you for this!
Glad I could helped you !✌🏻
Thank you!
Thaaaaaaank you!
@@beethovenian you're welcome 🙌🏼
- Palms marks on Janja's butt :3
- "Alex has left his DNA on the wall"
- Ai's attempts on the last boulder deserved an attention.
- Orianne's reaction on her teammate cheering 😁
- Desperately needed a separate cam on setters' faces during all this 🌚
PS: @savie591, you're the savior 🙏🙏🙏
Glad you enjoyed it !
discord notifications caught me off guard i thought it was mine 😭
I love you dude 😭
You're welcome ahah
When will they stop height checking ai mori
I knew there would be whining in the comments after I saw her attempt that boulder.
@@jk-qe3jj cry more
@@Hampshire87 I'm not the one crying because the start was high.
when ai mori starts jumping? mao nakamura is only 3cm taller than ai and did the jump _easily_
Ai Mori may have skipped leg day 😅
Glad Nakamura ended 6 after the great 4th boulder performance
Where can I get the soundtrack???
Which one ?
If Oriane can't do a slab it's probably too hard.
ai mori couldn't even start the boulder!!! what else could she have done? really frustrating it seems like a height thing 😡😡
It's not a height thing, Nakamura did the start no problem
@@thefrenchpilot true, i
think it was just sad watching her struggle and not do it every time 🥴
" what else could she have done?"
Eat more, work on her leg strength and jumping power. But of course, then she would be a little bit heavier and her finger strength to weight ratio would be slightly less impressive than it is.
If some climber had no way of doing a boulder because her fingers were not strong enough to hold a bad crimp, would you also complain?
At least it was on a boulder a large amount of the competitors struggled with.
Ai on boulder 1...
Yeah that was unfair. It needn't be that high
@@Oyvindbf mao nakamura is only 3cm taller than ai and did the jump easily
@@DunklerVater 3cm is huge for catching a crimp. Basically extra 2 phalanges of a finger. Also how about reach (foot to finger distance)?
Overall it seemed that the whole 1st boulder just could've been moved 10cm down or so. Though this is not what you want to/have time to do once it's almost set 😁
Shame on the setters. I hope you are reading this. SHAME
@@DunklerVater Yeah, to be fair, Ai has practically zero vert
Mens lead finals?
For Innsbruck it's sunday ! But if you speak for Budapest, unfortunatly my video got blocked.. sorry 😮💨
Route setters really did a bad job, could feel the enthusiasm of the crowd draining with all the failures. Over-compensating for an easy qualifying round isn't fixing the problem it's just compounding it. Shame for the athletes and spectators.
I share your frustration but you have to know: route setting on a big comp is a nightmare
This was pretty normal for a Semi-final. It's only about to find the top 8 and not for a good show. :)
Because you know that Ai Mori would climb away from everyone if she could only reach the holds, you have to slow her down in a different way. That's a shame. The route setter team knows exactly how big she is. Intelligent route setters do not exclude small climbers.
I mean yes, If they made every boulder so that it tested her strength and none of her weaknesses, she would surely win.
@@jk-qe3jjand that wouldn’t, be fair too. .
@@petervanderpluijm559 Of course.
all these comments are tedious really because you know that is not true. her weakness has always been her lack of dynamicism/power. she has always been a static and safe climber which is why she is so good in lead. This won't change because route setters has to also think about setting for tall climbers. like many has said Mao also started normally. its not about the 3 cms. if you look at it carefully she is not fully stretched between the two starting holds she is just not jumping as high as Mao. As a short climber myself I know that is my weakness and that's why I try to train my legs. Not saying Ai is not doing that but it's just how the game is. I used to really like her but it seems like so many non-climbers fans off her who watch nowadays always blame it on her height- and that's such a put off. she doesn't even do that herself.
Hugely unfair!