I've been looking at a 52 Dodge Meadowbrook for sale not far from me and the more I read and hear about these really old Mopars the more I want one! That one looks really good inside and out, it's registered, running and passing inspection, and it's for sale for $8k which is really not that much for a classic American car in Poland... From what I've seen there's plenty of new production parts and from reading about it on the forums it's not too difficult to make it keep up cruising on highway.
Thank you so much for this sir!!!!! I'm having to rebuild my 47 chrysler flathead 6, and this is the only video on the whole internet for this build. PURE GOLD. Nothing like a flathead
I can not thank you enough for taking the time to show this rebuild. I am working on a 1953 Plymouth Cambridge and this video has been a huge blessing. Thanks for the references for parts as well!!! You truly are awesome at what you do. Thanks again. God bless you!!!
I just ran across this video, and am glad I did. I've started rebuilding a '40 Plymouth (201, I think), for a P10. I can't wait to get through the remainder of this series
When I was 6 years old, 1958, I honed the flat head 6 in our 1950 Plymouth. My father was fitting new pistons and rings and he did a valve job on the head. I did the honing, because I could fit in the engine compartment. I sat on top of the engine and did my honing job. This video is taking me WAY back.
I've been looking for a video like this for years! I have a 1953 Dodge 230 cid flathead 6 that is locked up. This will definitely help with the rebuild. Thanks for the video!
Don't know where you are located I have a rolling over supposedly rebuilt motor and 3 spped trans. It is currently in a clarkson tug needs rewiring but it is for sale
Don't underestimate these old flatties. Back in the day I used to wind my 230 to 4000 rpm. It went once to 5200 ( broken throttle spring) before the valves floated . Tough old motors.
Reminds me of my 1952 Pontiac straight 8. Did a valve job to it Replaced bearings and timing chain. Added an AC partial flow oil filter and used Kendall GT-! racig oil. No problems, engine ran very well. Thanks for posting.
I just got a 51 Dodge b3b truck with the 218 FH... the motor is original with 37k miles on. the motor seems strong now, but this set of videos was very informative. thank you!
I definitely didn't see this coming. Thanks for the surprise. I have seen videos of valves being removed from Ford flathead V8 engines, but removing them from an inline makes it easier take pictures of the process.
I am really enjoying your channel. I may never own a 41 Plymouth (would love to), but nonetheless I find watching this work relaxing and informative. Thanks!
Nice video. Im working on a Buick 263 Fireball straight 8 and i am having fun trying to get all of the baked on oil off of the oil galley and valve train.
Chrysler Industrial They we’re in Cockshut combines, tanks trucks and definitely in service until 1972 because my Dad had a P&H 17 1/2 model 218 mobile crane and the power plant for the cranes superstructure was a Chrysler Industrial flat head all factory! That engine would start at-30 degrees Celsius and runs like a top and with a straight pipe at low idle you could easily have a conversation or listen to the radio. What a great piece of engineering!!🇨🇦👍😀
Did you pull the water distribution tube before you hot tanked it? Very important to make sure it is functional for cooling of the #5 & #6 valves. All Chrysler flatheads moved to hardened valve inserts in the early 30s. Also did you mark rod and main bearing caps so your can replace them in the same location on reassembly? If it is a 230/218 the rods are offset so check the forge numbers to make sure you get the order correct.(That's why it is important to ID them before pulling them.) The con rod bolts are special size with a unique lock washer, so don't lose them. To another comment/? the bottom of the distributor shaft has a tang that fits in a slot in the top of the oil pump. The oil pump has to be carefully installed in a specific relationship with the cam so the timing is correct. Bypass oil filters were an option and have better filtering characteristics than full flow filters. The lifters are called tappets. Lot more info about these vehicles at www.p15-d24.com
I had one in the back of my 65 5 ton dodge water truck street flusher running a big water pump , it was a good reliable motor , The truck had a 413 gas motor and a 5 speed gear box no rear split axle :)
I have always wanted to see a flathead rebuild. I love oddball engines from the past.the 305 GMC rebuild was great.how about maybe a348/409 or a Pontiac flathead 8 or a Buick overhead valve 8, or a Chevy 235 6 cylinder Buick nailhead,or a Oldsmobile 394??
I have a1937 Dodge. Thanks for all the tutorials and video production. My Dodge has 218.7 , recently re built. Your opinion on newer detergent motor oil. Also LUCAS zinc oil additive for older valve, and hotrods.
What I found surprising is that these old Plymouth sixes had hardened exhaust seats way back then. Here's a promotional vid from 1937. ruclips.net/video/5XpxQsHD0Vo/видео.html
We have 1953 Cranbrook coupe, just bought another for engine and overdrive trans. Belvedere. Disassembling it. Cutting frame down to use as spare engine and transmission stand. Rebuilding engine for hot rod, well all we can do with a 218. Lol. Taking the Coupe to shows as original. Extra engine on frame stand. Have not seen that. Engine and trans on actual frame as stand. Hopefully with radiator and crankable eventually.
My Mother got a used 51 plymouth cranbrook from an old farmer. Never do that. everything was shot. the engine was so worn out it sounded like a diesel(loose parts clattering). when the motor was hot the compression was so bad it could not get away from the starter. Lots of .25c/quart bulk oil went through it till it finally broke a piston. the whole car was shot so I burned it out and sold it for scrap. I was amazed how much heat comes off a burning car. this was about 1960 I just removed the gas tank,wheels and turned the car on its roof with windows hood and trunk open. Called the fire dept to let them know what I was doing so they did not come out for nothing. once burned out it was easy to pull out the scrap copper.cut it up with a torch.
The main baring bore has a factory size & it is usually called bearing housing bore. That way of checking the main bearing bore is ok but Most Chrysler manuals use recommend this method: Install a good crankshaft (reground or at some regrind size) in new bearings, lube the bearings with 30 wt oil, torque the main caps. If the crank spins freely you are good to go, if in a bind get the block align bored.
I'm picking up my uncles 38 Chrysler Royal in a few weeks and will be needing to have the engine rebuilt as it hasn't ran in 30 years. Covered barn car. I love these videos but idk if this work is something I would like to do myself without someone that knows more than I do. Any chance you're located in Washington?
with no oil filter the idea was to let the crud build up in the engine and clean it out at rebuild time. Also poor air cleaners let a lot of dirt in. today its not easy to get non detergent oil. NOTE to old car people. If you do not convert to full flow oil filter system. do not put modern oil in them or the crud will come loose and damage the engine.
Good point. Maybe eventually this shirt will make its way into the role of oily rag to wipe down engine parts; with the American Flag cut out and disposed of properly, of course.
Somewhere out there are a few old timers and younger hipsters who swear flatheads are the only way to go, apologizing for all of their weaknesses and condemning all of the new stuff’s potentials. Hey enjoy your 73 horsepower, friend...and to be fair, I bet they sound cool and they’re different. To each their own:)
It looks like the bore spacing is different from cylinder to cylinder. Mayhaps 1-2, 3.98", 2-3, 4", 3-4, 3.98", 4-5, 4", 5-6. 3.98" ? You have a new sub here....
I didn't know Chrysler made a flathead that early. Are all inline 6's considered flatheads? You know your ol' lady's gonna kick you right square in the nuts when she sees the hole in your shirt!
Flathead engines are engines with the valves in the block instead of the cylinder head. There are 4 cylinder flatheads, inline 8 flatheads, and V12 flatheads for example. Inline 6 engines can be flatheads, OHV, SOHC or DOHC.
I see you are wearing a Newport Beach shirt. Is that where you shop is located? I am looking for a good place to get my 230ci Dodge Flathead 6 rebuilt for my Power Wagon. Thanks for the video I am trying to learn as much as possible about these.
Hi. I've got a question for you. IDE really like to here from you. I've got a 1948 Chrysler Windsor Super Hurricane flat head. Anyway Ide watched your video, and I caught it all up to where you was ready to install the oil pan. I couldn't find that last video. Anyway. Ide like to rebuild my engine. (Factory only) Ide like to either bring it to you from here in the Mark and West Virginia area. I was hoping that maybe around $5,000 would do it. People up this way, want to use a 318, 340 etc in it etc. No... I don't want that. I realize that you may need to do certain things to it. It is what it is. You may here and there may haft to change something, that's ok if you do. Whatever needs to be done. Ide also like to go to 8 volt battery with it if I could. All I need is get it close to factory. I want to drive, not a antique tag. Don't worry, I rarely drive over 55. So yea... It does have age to it. Would you be able to get ahold of me? A either for finding the correct parts or B- would you be interested in rebuilding the engine? The car is around 14 years before my time. Lol.
I got a quick question, I have a sbc 400 do I have to drill steam holes in the heads, and what's it for if I do. My cousin has a race car and he says I don't have to but he's not a machinist. It's going into a weekend driven c3 corvette with 11to 1 piston and aluminum heads
Daniel C Poor quality fluids compared to today’s lubricants. That and there were so many unpaved roads back then. The amount of dusty conditions cars ran in back then was about the same as earth moving equipment face today .
Because the exhaust valves are in the block near the ring lands the upper cylinder lubrication of a flathead is more critical than an OHV motor, which has a head gasket that prevents the piston ring area from getting so hot. The improved motor oils definitely help the flathead. The old motor manuals recommend a periodic de-carbon process - which few motors got. Typically a well cared for Mopar flathead was good for 85,000 miles before it needed an in-chassis overhaul. I expect with the improved oils these motors can double that life. You will find that the piston lands and rings are cracked in many of these motors - and yet they still run, sort of.
last year we took a 50 ford truck good body running motor flat head 4 speed with a 3 speed no tires bad bed to scrap i try to tell my buddy we would get a lot more if we sold it but he just wonted it gone i bet a lot people hate us for this better yet was the 70 moch 1 that we got for free we just wonted the motor out of it
Hi! I recently stumbled across your channel due to your GMC 305 V6 rebuild. I am finding your videos and experience to be valuable in my research to rebuild my engine. I have to ask, yes I know this is out of context of this video but, any interest in building an IH SV engine?
I would convert it to full flow oil filter. put synthetic oil in it. I have one of those flat head spring compressors. also use a real good paper element air cleaner. had a double silent chain, good stuff. The old chevys were the pore and bore.
how different would this be from a 1952 Plymouth engine i believe its a 218? My grandpa gave me his 1952 Plymouth Special Deluxe and the engine doesnt seem to run so i want to keep it all original as possible.
The Slant 6 oil pump is a external pump driven off the cam also Maybe that's where they got their idea since the slant was designed back in the late 50's
I have a 1950 Plymouth with a 230 flathead engine, I'm replacing the exhaust & intake manifold gasket, I took out a bolt towards the rear of the engine and antifreeze came out, is the water jacket that close to the bolt?
I have the same build going on right now, I have the rground cam, lifters etc along with the aluminum head from Egge. Are you interested in building it this winter?
I wish I had the money to send an engine to you and have a video of it being rebuilt. It's so cool to watch you work. Btw, what usually causes warpage on the block?
Where did you get the pistons/Rods/crank/cam for the rebuild? I am in San Diego and am planning to rebuild my 1933 Dodge that has a 1953 Dodge Flat head engine.
Even detergent oils of the 70s-early80s were pretty poor. Engine oils of today are pretty incredible as far as how clean they can keep tiny , high horsepower engines and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles. Nissan copied the design of that oil pump almost to a “T” in their older 4 cylinder truck engines. Most people don’t realize that the Japanese copied designs primarily from the USA but also from VW. As a Matt of fact, most of your original Toyota technicians came from VW when Yoda first started selling here in the USA. The Landcruiser’s original inline 6 was built from plans based on the Chevy inline six.
That silvolite company still exist in Carson City Nevada they advertise all their Pistons being heat treated and I noticed you pulled the oil pump it look like a distributor so what controls the spark when and where did the distributor just come in on the other side and then ride on the top of the gear rather than the bottom or did it have a shaft that went in the bottom oil pump curiosity kills me?
If you look closely you will notice the distributor bore on the opposite side of the block from the oil pump. The distributor is driven by a coupling on the end of the oil pump shaft.
I'm not sure how the 2 are related, but I often read about Keith Black pistons at the same time that I read about Silvolite pistons. I think Keith Black is their high performance division, but I am not entirely sure.
they did use them in forklifts. a place I used to work for had a 1967 Baker forklift and it had a Dodge 230 cu In flathead in it. when it blew a head gasket I ordered a replacement for a 1954 Dodge flathead and this worked perfectly. the head and block had a flat surface so it was not due to warpage.
I got a 1951 plymouth cranbrook giving to me and someone took all the wiring on with the generator so I figured I would change it to 12 volt but I'm having a hard time finding a distributor with hei do you know where I can get my hands on one
try VPW in iowa they carry all the parts for that eng i have a 230 cu in eng i ordered all my parts from them i can tell you one part you may need is the correct cond in the dist its a ---STANDARD AL 118 it will give max spark i found this the hard way
Hi this is off subject but I need a little info. I have a 69' 429ci and I can not find a new stock balancer, it is internally balanced. I do have an aftermarket for the 68'-73' but 4 bolts, can I just grab one off a later model 429ci with a 4 bolt crank. The last thing I need to know is do I have to go to aftermarket flywheel if the crank is internally balanced?
to all these folks deading to tackle te flat head 6 im now 86 two yrs ago i pulled the eng out my m37 army truck ground the valve put in new rings converted dist to civilian ( LOWER COST) plug and wires put in back by myself so you can do it
I have a question for anyone here, I have a 1940 Plymouth P10 Deluxe 4 door sedan. The numbers on the block are TX 319 1073 C. This is a Canadian car so I've read that it would have a long block in it. The block is 25.5 inches long. 3 3/8" Bore X 4 1/2" Stroke. I had ordered a gasket set for this car on rock auto, what they sent me was for a 218 and or 230 set...the head gasket in this kit was 26 inches long and the valve cover gaskets are short too. Anyways can someone tell me from the numbers of the block what engine I have and where a guy can get hold of parts for it? THANKS!!!
I thought it as a 230ci but I was just guessing based on the limited research I did, after more research and numbers chasing I now know this engine is a 1937 201 CId plymouth business coupe engine the bore is 3.1250 and the stroke is 4.3750 when we are done boring our bore will be 3.185 our cubic inches will be will be 209 nothing to wright home about but it is what it is
This has been a CRUCIAL resource for me rebuilding the 230 Flathead in the 1958 Dodge Power Wagon I’m restoring. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!
I've been looking at a 52 Dodge Meadowbrook for sale not far from me and the more I read and hear about these really old Mopars the more I want one!
That one looks really good inside and out, it's registered, running and passing inspection, and it's for sale for $8k which is really not that much for a classic American car in Poland...
From what I've seen there's plenty of new production parts and from reading about it on the forums it's not too difficult to make it keep up cruising on highway.
Thank you so much for this sir!!!!! I'm having to rebuild my 47 chrysler flathead 6, and this is the only video on the whole internet for this build. PURE GOLD. Nothing like a flathead
Your very welcome
Love that people are actually restoring 40's, 50's engines. Especially those flatheads.
I can not thank you enough for taking the time to show this rebuild. I am working on a 1953 Plymouth Cambridge and this video has been a huge blessing. Thanks for the references for parts as well!!! You truly are awesome at what you do. Thanks again. God bless you!!!
Just picked up a 51 4dr cambridge myself
I just ran across this video, and am glad I did. I've started rebuilding a '40 Plymouth (201, I think), for a P10. I can't wait to get through the remainder of this series
I have a 37 Plymouth 201 Flathead I'm rebuilding, I just got mine unseized and it turns over again.
I've got a '40 P10 too. Original engine and also have one sitting on a '39 chassis.
When I was 6 years old, 1958, I honed the flat head 6 in our 1950 Plymouth. My father was fitting new pistons and rings and he did a valve job on the head. I did the honing, because I could fit in the engine compartment. I sat on top of the engine and did my honing job. This video is taking me WAY back.
Some people say that the original air cooled VW engines would have lasted longer if they had a spin on filter rather than an oil strainer.
I've been looking for a video like this for years! I have a 1953 Dodge 230 cid flathead 6 that is locked up. This will definitely help with the rebuild. Thanks for the video!
Don't know where you are located I have a rolling over supposedly rebuilt motor and 3 spped trans. It is currently in a clarkson tug needs rewiring but it is for sale
CALL A MECHANIC where are you located?
@@crxman9119 ZION IL. USA.
@@crxman9119 Zion Il.
Don't underestimate these old flatties. Back in the day I used to wind my 230 to 4000 rpm. It went once to 5200 ( broken throttle spring) before the valves floated . Tough old motors.
The direct acting valvetrain is lightweight and efficient, but the motor can't breathe well.
Reminds me of my 1952 Pontiac straight 8. Did a valve job to it Replaced bearings and timing chain. Added an AC partial flow oil filter and used Kendall GT-! racig oil. No problems, engine ran very well. Thanks for posting.
Thank you so much for showing how to take the valves out! I am pretty sure I am going to need to take mine out and lap them
I just got a 51 Dodge b3b truck with the 218 FH... the motor is original with 37k miles on. the motor seems strong now, but this set of videos was very informative. thank you!
I definitely didn't see this coming. Thanks for the surprise.
I have seen videos of valves being removed from Ford flathead V8 engines, but removing them from an inline makes it easier take pictures of the process.
I am really enjoying your channel. I may never own a 41 Plymouth (would love to), but nonetheless I find watching this work relaxing and informative. Thanks!
Nice video. Im working on a Buick 263 Fireball straight 8 and i am having fun trying to get all of the baked on oil off of the oil galley and valve train.
Wow! Watched this 1yr or so ago now I'm picking up a 50 dodge wayfarer with the 230 in it!
Chrysler Industrial They we’re in Cockshut combines, tanks trucks and definitely in service until 1972 because my Dad had a P&H 17 1/2 model 218 mobile crane and the power plant for the cranes superstructure was a Chrysler Industrial flat head all factory! That engine would start at-30 degrees Celsius and runs like a top and with a straight pipe at low idle you could easily have a conversation or listen to the radio. What a great piece of engineering!!🇨🇦👍😀
agreed very good engine
the chrysler 6 was used in many applications including farm equipment and war effort equipment
These flatheads was also used in forklifts. Sometimes propane was used as fuel. I think the engine was made all the way to 1970.
Just popping in to say I love this channel. I've learned alot about motors here.
Thanks alot!
Did you pull the water distribution tube before you hot tanked it? Very important to make sure it is functional for cooling of the #5 & #6 valves. All Chrysler flatheads moved to hardened valve inserts in the early 30s. Also did you mark rod and main bearing caps so your can replace them in the same location on reassembly?
If it is a 230/218 the rods are offset so check the forge numbers to make sure you get the order correct.(That's why it is important to ID them before pulling them.) The con rod bolts are special size with a unique lock washer, so don't lose them. To another comment/? the bottom of the distributor shaft has a tang that fits in a slot in the top of the oil pump. The oil pump has to be carefully installed in a specific relationship with the cam so the timing is correct. Bypass oil filters were an option and have better filtering characteristics than full flow filters. The lifters are called tappets. Lot more info about these vehicles at www.p15-d24.com
I just finished a ‘37 201 build. Fun engine to go through.
I had one in the back of my 65 5 ton dodge water truck street flusher running a big water pump , it was a good reliable motor , The truck had a 413 gas motor and a 5 speed gear box no rear split axle :)
Love the channel nice to see a real old school engine!
Wow ! What a great video. Very interesting and lots of good information thanks
THX
I have always wanted to see a flathead rebuild. I love oddball engines from the past.the 305 GMC rebuild was great.how about maybe a348/409 or a Pontiac flathead 8 or a Buick overhead valve 8, or a Chevy 235 6 cylinder Buick nailhead,or a Oldsmobile 394??
I have always wanted to do a straight 8 just haven't come across one yet
I have a1937 Dodge. Thanks for all the tutorials and video production.
My Dodge has 218.7 , recently re built. Your opinion on newer detergent motor oil. Also LUCAS zinc oil additive for older valve, and hotrods.
I think you have the only video working on one of these so far, and uploaded just as I'm pulling mine apart. Thanks for the good vid!
if you run into a problem post it on line these comments some of us can help i found mine 11 yrs ago
What I found surprising is that these old Plymouth sixes had hardened exhaust seats way back then. Here's a promotional vid from 1937. ruclips.net/video/5XpxQsHD0Vo/видео.html
I'm addicted to your videos man.
Did you replace the water distribution tube in the block? Those can be a bear to get out, but are critical for proper cooling.
We have 1953 Cranbrook coupe, just bought another for engine and overdrive trans. Belvedere. Disassembling it. Cutting frame down to use as spare engine and transmission stand. Rebuilding engine for hot rod, well all we can do with a 218. Lol. Taking the Coupe to shows as original. Extra engine on frame stand. Have not seen that. Engine and trans on actual frame as stand. Hopefully with radiator and crankable eventually.
Great video man! Very detailed.
Folks in case u don't feel the amount of effort by the host, again thank you, the engine block is so heavy you really need assistance!
My Mother got a used 51 plymouth cranbrook from an old farmer. Never do that. everything was shot. the engine was so worn out it sounded like a diesel(loose parts clattering). when the motor was hot the compression was so bad it could not get away from the starter. Lots of .25c/quart bulk oil went through it till it finally broke a piston. the whole car was shot so I burned it out and sold it for scrap. I was amazed how much heat comes off a burning car. this was about 1960 I just removed the gas tank,wheels and turned the car on its roof with windows hood and trunk open. Called the fire dept to let them know what I was doing so they did not come out for nothing. once burned out it was easy to pull out the scrap copper.cut it up with a torch.
The main baring bore has a factory size & it is usually called bearing housing bore. That way of checking the main bearing bore is ok but Most Chrysler manuals use recommend this method: Install a good crankshaft (reground or at some regrind size) in new bearings, lube the bearings with 30 wt oil, torque the main caps. If the crank spins freely you are good to go, if in a bind get the block align bored.
I'm picking up my uncles 38 Chrysler Royal in a few weeks and will be needing to have the engine rebuilt as it hasn't ran in 30 years. Covered barn car. I love these videos but idk if this work is something I would like to do myself without someone that knows more than I do. Any chance you're located in Washington?
This reminds me of when I help my rebuild a 49 dodge truck what a mass no gloves and my hands we're black for a while good video on this.
with no oil filter the idea was to let the crud build up in the engine and clean it out at rebuild time. Also poor air cleaners let a lot of dirt in. today its not easy to get non detergent oil. NOTE to old car people. If you do not convert to full flow oil filter system. do not put modern oil in them or the crud will come loose and damage the engine.
I guess living in Arizona, the extra armpit ventilation comes in handy.
Why ruin a decent shirt when tearing that filthy thing down?
Good point. Maybe eventually this shirt will make its way into the role of oily rag to wipe down engine parts; with the American Flag cut out and disposed of properly, of course.
Somewhere out there are a few old timers and younger hipsters who swear flatheads are the only way to go, apologizing for all of their weaknesses and condemning all of the new stuff’s potentials. Hey enjoy your 73 horsepower, friend...and to be fair, I bet they sound cool and they’re different. To each their own:)
It looks like the bore spacing is different from cylinder to cylinder. Mayhaps 1-2, 3.98", 2-3, 4", 3-4, 3.98", 4-5, 4", 5-6. 3.98" ? You have a new sub here....
super cool. would love to see this engine running
thats the plan
I didn't know Chrysler made a flathead that early. Are all inline 6's considered flatheads? You know your ol' lady's gonna kick you right square in the nuts when she sees the hole in your shirt!
Flathead engines are engines with the valves in the block instead of the cylinder head. There are 4 cylinder flatheads, inline 8 flatheads, and V12 flatheads for example.
Inline 6 engines can be flatheads, OHV, SOHC or DOHC.
yea didn't notice tll i reviewed the video
I see you are wearing a Newport Beach shirt. Is that where you shop is located? I am looking for a good place to get my 230ci Dodge Flathead 6 rebuilt for my Power Wagon. Thanks for the video I am trying to learn as much as possible about these.
Hi. I've got a question for you. IDE really like to here from you. I've got a 1948 Chrysler Windsor Super Hurricane flat head. Anyway Ide watched your video, and I caught it all up to where you was ready to install the oil pan. I couldn't find that last video. Anyway. Ide like to rebuild my engine. (Factory only) Ide like to either bring it to you from here in the Mark and West Virginia area. I was hoping that maybe around $5,000 would do it. People up this way, want to use a 318, 340 etc in it etc. No... I don't want that. I realize that you may need to do certain things to it. It is what it is. You may here and there may haft to change something, that's ok if you do. Whatever needs to be done. Ide also like to go to 8 volt battery with it if I could. All I need is get it close to factory. I want to drive, not a antique tag. Don't worry, I rarely drive over 55. So yea... It does have age to it. Would you be able to get ahold of me? A either for finding the correct parts or B- would you be interested in rebuilding the engine? The car is around 14 years before my time. Lol.
Well presented good content
I got a quick question, I have a sbc 400 do I have to drill steam holes in the heads, and what's it for if I do. My cousin has a race car and he says I don't have to but he's not a machinist. It's going into a weekend driven c3 corvette with 11to 1 piston and aluminum heads
drill em it will run hot otherwise any machine shop worth their salt can do it
Thanks I appreciate your help, I was pretty sure they had to be drilled,but now, I'm sure not to assemble the 400 without it.
When's part two out?
That engine already has hardened seats. Research is your friend.
Mr Torres? Old teacher still at it
Oil and air filtration technology back then probably contributed to a lot of the premature wear issues.
Daniel C Poor quality fluids compared to today’s lubricants. That and there were so many unpaved roads back then. The amount of dusty conditions cars ran in back then was about the same as earth moving equipment face today .
Because the exhaust valves are in the block near the ring lands the upper cylinder lubrication of a flathead is more critical than an OHV motor, which has a head gasket that prevents the piston ring area from getting so hot. The improved motor oils definitely help the flathead. The old motor manuals recommend a periodic de-carbon process - which few motors got. Typically a well cared for Mopar flathead was good for 85,000 miles before it needed an in-chassis overhaul. I expect with the improved oils these motors can double that life. You will find that the piston lands and rings are cracked in many of these motors - and yet they still run, sort of.
I was wonder when (If ever) the flathead got chrome or moly rings. Those did a great job of extending engine life.
I want to buy your shirt . I love the aircon
last year we took a 50 ford truck good body running motor flat head 4 speed with a 3 speed no tires bad bed to scrap i try to tell my buddy we would get a lot more if we sold it but he just wonted it gone i bet a lot people hate us for this better yet was the 70 moch 1 that we got for free we just wonted the motor out of it
Great info, very informative. Where are you located at?
Hi! I recently stumbled across your channel due to your GMC 305 V6 rebuild. I am finding your videos and experience to be valuable in my research to rebuild my engine. I have to ask, yes I know this is out of context of this video but, any interest in building an IH SV engine?
I would convert it to full flow oil filter. put synthetic oil in it. I have one of those flat head spring compressors. also use a real good paper element air cleaner. had a double silent chain, good stuff. The old chevys were the pore and bore.
He showed that the bores are worn too far. The engine is likely being rebuilt because it failed a compression or leakdown test.
yes that makes sense.
how different would this be from a 1952 Plymouth engine i believe its a 218? My grandpa gave me his 1952 Plymouth Special Deluxe and the engine doesnt seem to run so i want to keep it all original as possible.
The Slant 6 oil pump is a external pump driven off the cam also Maybe that's where they got their idea since the slant was designed back in the late 50's
these engines first saw introduction in 33'
Awaiting ur next video for this series. Whe. Installing the oil pump how do u time it for the distributor.
Good
I have a 1950 Plymouth with a 230 flathead engine, I'm replacing the exhaust & intake manifold gasket, I took out a bolt towards the rear of the engine and antifreeze came out, is the water jacket that close to the bolt?
I have a 1932 Plymouth PB needs rebuild. Has Babbitt Bearings. Can I convert this to Inserts ?
I have the same build going on right now, I have the rground cam, lifters etc along with the aluminum head from Egge. Are you interested in building it this winter?
Hey Vern, I'm waitin' for the flathead six rebuild, part 2 eh! 🙂
Waiting on parts
id like a 265 cool motors it has four mains ford have 3
Was this the type of engine used in dodge power wagons?
Yes. The later WM300 used the 251, early models used the 230
I wish I had the money to send an engine to you and have a video of it being rebuilt. It's so cool to watch you work.
Btw, what usually causes warpage on the block?
Cylinder blocks can warp due to heating and cooling cycles. The block will warp even faster if the car is overheated.
The good old days
Where did you get the pistons/Rods/crank/cam for the rebuild? I am in San Diego and am planning to rebuild my 1933 Dodge that has a 1953 Dodge Flat head engine.
I have tons of cranks for 251 or 265 crysler flat head
This is a 201
Even detergent oils of the 70s-early80s were pretty poor. Engine oils of today are pretty incredible as far as how clean they can keep tiny , high horsepower engines and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles. Nissan copied the design of that oil pump almost to a “T” in their older 4 cylinder truck engines. Most people don’t realize that the Japanese copied designs primarily from the USA but also from VW. As a Matt of fact, most of your original Toyota technicians came from VW when Yoda first started selling here in the USA. The Landcruiser’s original inline 6 was built from plans based on the Chevy inline six.
That silvolite company still exist in Carson City Nevada they advertise all their Pistons being heat treated and I noticed you pulled the oil pump it look like a distributor so what controls the spark when and where did the distributor just come in on the other side and then ride on the top of the gear rather than the bottom or did it have a shaft that went in the bottom oil pump curiosity kills me?
If you look closely you will notice the distributor bore on the opposite side of the block from the oil pump. The distributor is driven by a coupling on the end of the oil pump shaft.
the distributor is on the opposite side
Myvintageiron7512 thanks man looks like Smoby44 was a little quicker to the draw I love this stuff and believe me I take it all in
I'm not sure how the 2 are related, but I often read about Keith Black pistons at the same time that I read about Silvolite pistons. I think Keith Black is their high performance division, but I am not entirely sure.
Skyline Fever both are part of United Engine & Machine
What do you have against engine stands or were they all occupied....
Hola, si esta tupido el desahogo puede gastar aceite un motor 218 plymouth 23 pulgada. Gracias.
Where's part 2?
I have one of these motors what is total rebuild cost on one?
Hey, where did you get the 60 over pistons?
EGGE
Didn't they run that engine or something similar in forklifts for a while?
Cheezy Dee They had these motors in boats too. Under the Chrysler marine this 230 cid motor was the Ace rated for 70hp.
motorsportmach I remember an old Chris Craft locally that had the old Chrysler Straight Eight too , very similar design and a tough old motor .
they did use them in forklifts. a place I used to work for had a 1967 Baker forklift and it had a Dodge 230 cu In flathead in it. when it blew a head gasket I ordered a replacement for a 1954 Dodge flathead and this worked perfectly. the head and block had a flat surface so it was not due to warpage.
The used this engine in just about everything they made a heavy duty industrial version
Also airplane tugs, combines, air raid sirens
thanks again sir
What the heck is up with that funny square looking imprint on the side of those early blocks?
Great information. Part 2 ? Soon
yes waiting on parts
yeah ford really liked their babbit bearings.
Your back
I have a 1948 dodge truck b-1 how do I tell what size flat head engine I have
I believe the numbers on block was used for vin numbers back then
nope
Where do you find a engine like that?
I got a 1951 plymouth cranbrook giving to me and someone took all the wiring on with the generator so I figured I would change it to 12 volt but I'm having a hard time finding a distributor with hei do you know where I can get my hands on one
not sure on that one
Where did you get your parts for this engine?
try VPW in iowa they carry all the parts for that eng i have a 230 cu in eng i ordered all my parts from them i can tell you one part you may need is the correct cond in the dist its a ---STANDARD AL 118 it will give max spark i found this the hard way
Is this video applicable to 1953 engine?
Hi this is off subject but I need a little info. I have a 69' 429ci and I can not find a new stock balancer, it is internally balanced. I do have an aftermarket for the 68'-73' but 4 bolts, can I just grab one off a later model 429ci with a 4 bolt crank. The last thing I need to know is do I have to go to aftermarket flywheel if the crank is internally balanced?
Sorry went too fast I ment 4 bolt crank pulley off later model 429ci.
Where are you located? I'm in La Verne CA 91750
What's the ballpark cost to have someone completely rebuild one of these? Assuming I have no aftermarket parts like this customer.
mine was about 1.8k no speed parts
to all these folks deading to tackle te flat head 6 im now 86 two yrs ago i pulled the eng out my m37 army truck ground the valve put in new rings converted dist to civilian ( LOWER COST) plug and wires put in back by myself so you can do it
Watched this video a dozen times, just noticed the rip under his armpit
ohh man,...the original crank is no more...
Does anyone on this thread know how to get a hold of this fella? Does he offer his services to the public? I'd like to hire him.
Bro I have one you can rebuild what’s the name of your shop
I have a question for anyone here, I have a 1940 Plymouth P10 Deluxe 4 door sedan. The numbers on the block are TX 319 1073 C. This is a Canadian car so I've read that it would have a long block in it. The block is 25.5 inches long. 3 3/8" Bore X 4 1/2" Stroke. I had ordered a gasket set for this car on rock auto, what they sent me was for a 218 and or 230 set...the head gasket in this kit was 26 inches long and the valve cover gaskets are short too. Anyways can someone tell me from the numbers of the block what engine I have and where a guy can get hold of parts for it? THANKS!!!
Can you provide engine spec's? Bore, stroke, rod length, valve sizes, I think you said a couple different engine sizes cubic inches.
I thought it as a 230ci but I was just guessing based on the limited research I did, after more research and numbers chasing I now know this engine is a 1937 201 CId plymouth business coupe engine the bore is 3.1250 and the stroke is 4.3750 when we are done boring our bore will be 3.185 our cubic inches will be will be 209 nothing to wright home about but it is what it is
I have a 1947 Dodge WFX. It needs an engine rebuild. What is your contact information?
sorry not taking on any more customer work
1937 Dodge Coupe in the houzz,