The Quest For 3DP Filament Spool Holding Perfection
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- Why did it take me so long to make a self centering smooth bearing spool holder for any of my 3D printers. This thing is great!
To download the files please support on patreon.com/designprototypetest
I've been using a similar design for years. I have tried the one with the lever arm that locks and unlocks, and they break, no matter what material I print them out of, Nylon, Petg, PC. I tried beefing up the geometry, gave up. I've had spools unwind themselves using the frictionless option so often. Using the nut to squish the bearing is not ideal, I use felt pads on the fixed side of the spool holder -- I adjust the tension of the fixed side to the felt pad (furniture pads, super cheap). Some friction and resistance is necessary to no come back to a tangled mess. This is really a big issue with brand new spools.
Exactly. Things can get nasty for the new spools when the filament is close to the edge of the spool.
@@medyk3D I thought much the same myself (great minds think alike, and yet fools seldom differ).
But yeah, it needs a little bit of "tug" (a governor would be nice) to stop that happening. I even considered driving a second stepper with an old extruder to feed out a little slack on demand but that's too damn complex (too much to go wrong).
Now wait until a certain Australian chap allegedly steals the design... (cough, splutter)
@@marcdraco2189 I have a governor that YOU ARE WELCOMED TO TAKE!!! PLEASE!!! He's GRUESOME to any SANE minds left in this uber-BLUE (not red, AAMOF. Yikes!) state, and I'm SICK AND TIRED of his arrogant STUPIDITY!
@@palewriter1856 Florida? I feel for you/
@@marcdraco2189 Uh - NO - wrong coast!
Problem is: my mental flatulence in swapping the r/b color scheme.
Pardon me while I drop back and correct my stupid blunder!!
Watched the whole video then realized this wasn't available on thingiverse and I have to support on patreon to get access. No hate at using patreon, but definitely feel like this video was to sell a product instead of share. Wasted 20min only to find I cant do the thing without paying. Its a cool design though.
But that's what TY has become: self-promoting infomercials, and mindless stuff with baited titles (and unrelated thumbnails) to maximize views and ad click-throughs. Gone are the days when someone just wants to share something cool without hard or self selling.
I use this kind of spool holder for about 3 or 4 years now...when I designed mine I use left hand threads on the tube to be sure it will not unthread itself !
this is how I would have done it as well
care to share your design STL?
Not sure if you check comments or not but another simple solution to some of the earlier designs would be to make it a reverse thread then you wouldn't have to worry about a locking nut.
lol saw this comment right after posting mine. Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best ones.
Just printed a couple of these up, and they work perfectly. Total peace of mind doing long overnight prints. I think printing at 100.2% will make bearing install a little easier. Thanks!!
I put Lucas Red Tacky Grease in the bearings I use.
Very slight drag on rolling, prevents 'self-unrolling'.
Viscous damping for the masses!
I designed one myself, and yours is far closer to the one I originally wanted to make. Good job!
Thank you for the kind words. Have a great day!
If you're printing flexibles a free moving spool is essential, if you have too much friction the filament stretches and can create clogs and jams
For the spool end nut spinning itself off, put the filament on backwards so it would tend to tighten the holder or print backwards threads.
or create a thread with opposite rotation thread
That's basically a remix from the duke doks's design. You should check his thingiverse profile so you can realize that 'your solution' was in his profile like a month ago.
Some time ago, you uploaded a video about teaching tech stealing content and you are doing the same.
The solution in this video is good, since it correct the only problem that the original model has, but it is just an improvement, as well as the rest of the remixes of any design in thingiverse.
Can you guys quit with these "remix" arguments? I did not remix anything. I started from a blank screen in CAD, and based my measurements off the spools which I showed in the video. Every single facet of my design is my creation. Is a Tesla Model S a Remix of a Ford Taurus? I gave credit to every single source of inspiration I found for my design. Just because DukeDoks made a version with Keyways before me doesn't mean I copied him. I wasn't even aware of his solution until you told me to go look for it, and it's functionally quite different from mine. DukeDoks' solution incorporates keyways as well, but the cone still threads onto the axle. You bring up the irrelevant TT copycat issue makes me think you have a bias against me. Are you trying to harm my reputation, by finding some minute instance of inconsistency in my motivations/actions like I'm some sort of political candidate? Even if I am a hypocrite (and I endeavor not to be so) that doesn't change the validity of my message. Did you see this video of mine that provides a pretty final answer to the "Is TT copying DPT?" Question: ruclips.net/video/FE7ZoWcyc6w/видео.html
Many times the problem with engineering and design is trying to solve the correct problem. Often the actual problem manifests itself in actual use. My observation is that the free spinning spool is a problem, or more correctly, a solution looking for a problem. A small winding irregularity causes a bit of resistance followed by a release and spin. The resulting loop of filament entangles itself in the printer parts and then gets snagged. The snag and spin of the stock parts is actually amplified. What I want is consistency. A little drag that keeps the filament where it belongs, but not so much there is a bind and release. We need to design a constant but light drag, which will eliminate more potential failure modes.
In the background of the intro you can see the extruder overcome the imbalance of the spool and then throw a big loop of slack into the feed . this might also be due to residual strain in the filament making it unwind itself. This seems like it would be an invitation to tangling...either on part of the printer or the loops forming a knot. It seems like some sort of mild friction would be helpful...like the “click” on a surf casting reel that prevents backlash. Maybe some small magnets that cause some cogging as the spool rotates...Or maybe magnets acting on a copper or aluminum disk so it adds viscous drag but no static drag.
I love what you did here by utilizing a keyway. Sealed bearings (I think you have seals there, forgive if I am in error) are harder to turn than shielded bearings. In fact, you inner race is spinning on the shaft I would wager due to seal friction. No content but too designed my own years ago due to being unhappy with everything else. It improved my print quality.
Upon using TPU for the first time, on my Ender 5S1 (Direct Drive), I realized that I'd never get consistent extrusion as long as the extruder had to pull past the friction of the spool on the arm. I'm doing a similar design and researching options before committing to my model - this gave me a few ideas for adjustments. One thing that I don't like is that the original metal arm flexes uner the weight of a full spool and the spool sags and moves to the low point. I designed an entirely new arm out of PLA that clips directly onto to 80/20 t-slot rails on both the back rail and the bottom rail, which adds shear support and stiffens up the entire mechanism - no more sagging spool holder.
This solution was PERFECT for me !!!!!! Thank you for this solution !!!!
this was a cool video because you showed ppl a few examples of spool holder design and who designed them. Also you gave a brief education on how your methodology pertaining to design went. Thanks
Thanks again for this. I just printed and installed a third one of these for my recently new-to-me Ender 3 Pro. Should have done it sooner.
"Your design" ... in that you took an existing free design, slightly modified it, then put it behind a paywall. If this really was your design or you made major changes that'd be one thing, but you should at least have the courtesy to post it on thingiverse as a remix so the original creator can get some credit.
I did not remix anyone else's work. I started from a blank screen and drew every single facet of my geometry. By your reasoning Tesla should pay Ford a royalty check because clearly a Model S is just a remix of a Taurus. Also, please unsubscribe from my channel and do not watch any more of my videos. I do not give you permission to watch my content. You are worse than a free loader. You are actually attacking me for daring to ask for compensation for the value I have added.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I apologize, I can only know what you show me. I'd suggest focusing on that next time. Your video spends a lot of time showing us other designs and goes on to make it look like you picked someone else's design and changed one thing. I know it's important to draw from what already works and improve from there, but I didn't get the impression that you designed it entirely yourself, I didn't get to see that process. It felt like "look at this design, I like this one... and here's what I changed" basically. I would have loved to see your process more in-depth, even a timelapse would have been nice, or maybe a brief review of your itinerations to your final result?
I do recognize I came out the gate rude, and assumed somethings I shouldn't have. I'm not sorry for standing up for the other designer, but I am honestly sorry for misjudging you. I've had people take my own work, make tiny changes, then claim it as their own - so I was a bit harsh because I know how that feels.
I hope in the future you're a bit nicer to new viewers that stumble across your channel. I'm not a subscriber, never was. This video is public, anyone can find it and watch it. You may want to change your upload settings if you meant this to be a private video.
Apology accepted. The core value of this channel is recognizing original creators in an attempt to have them reap the rewards for their contributions. I provided a tour of existing "prior art" to show the evolution of the design. I am merely adding the latest creation in a chain of ever improving designs. I'm sure someone can improve upon what I have made. I hope they will acknowledge those who came before them as I did here.
@@DesignPrototypeTest , that Taurus/ Tesla thing that you used repeatedly was not the best analogy. Thank you for showing the older designs btw.
I really like the ones where the rim of the spool sits directly on the bearings because they make for very quick mount/dismount. A design where one of those is on a slider to allow for different spool widths and it's sturdy enough to mount above a printer would be my ultimate holder.
Good design. However! The problem with this low of a friction on a spool holder is that some filaments tend to unwind and then kink. Also when filament unwinds too much it tends to crisscross itself which causes famous knotted filament issues. I use something similar except i just use 12mm pipe and two 1mm wide contact sliding points. very low friction but enough to keep the filament nicely wound but will easily dispense just enough filament. when it's printing the spool is continuously slowly rotating, no unroll, stop... etc.
608 RS bearings, they have rubber seals that are removable. I pack one side with TinkSeal, bearings not only roll smoother, but the TinkSeal helps keep the dust out as well.
FYI - 608 bearings with metal shields (608 ZZ or 2Z) are non contact.
I have been putting off making one for the past 2 years. Thanks for sharing.
Your right velleman k8200 did this long time ago... even had a quick release nut. Good job engineerin GB something that already exists... again.
That's a really nice design! In my opinion the main problem is that when you attach the roll of filament directly on the 3d printer every movement gives a tiny push to it, that then pushes back the printer. This makes ghosting much worse, and is especially apparent when you have a moving bed and the roll of filament on the top. My solution was much simpler, to put the roll elsewhere! At the end of the day I have a Bondtech extruder, the force that thing can use to pull filament is scary, it won't have issues with the tiny amount of friction!
Frankly I'd just go with something like thing:3020026 with a narrower roller and have mounted at a slight angle so the spool can't fall off and call it good, been using something similar for years now with no issues. I think I'm going to remix so I can mount it to my old steel stock spool holder for my predator to make it more ridged and sized appropriately for 3kg spools. Thanks for bringing up the subject, I've been meaning make a new spool holder for a while now, i keep getting side tracked with other projects.
Danke dass du dein Design so genau erklärt hast obwohl du es nur deinen patreon Leuten gegeben hast
Thank you for enjoying my video even though my patreon supporters make it possible for me to continue making videos. Communism always fails.
So you revised someone's design and put it behind a pay wall,
genius
🙃
It's boring seeing the same old weak comments that think they are so astute. Let's look at it this way: I let hundreds of designers go before me and make their best object then I made a better version. Am I a better designer than everyone who came before me, or is this just the way iterative design in a society happens?
@@DesignPrototypeTest That's like saying you have no original ideas. You can only take someone else's idea, tweak it a bit, and profit from it. The real issue is you're working within a community that is traditionally open source. The model you "remixed" was open source an licensed under Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - No Derivatives. The least you could have done was to credit the original designer, link to your remix, and piss on the creative commons license (however you want to interpret it) it was published under by putting it behind a Patreon paywall.
I would not have even bothered commenting, because I know it takes a lot of work to put these videos out and getting any kind of return in investment is difficult. I contribute to many Patreon accounts with this in mind. However, your attitude and egocentric replies to some of these comments is repulsive. If you're doing that poorly, then find another source of income that isn't so stressful for you.
I like how’s your printer in the background tangeling the filament. Clearly design flaw of your “perfect design”. The spool unloads really quickly at the beginning of the video. Then the filament tangled. Hmmm
I'm not an expert in these things, but isn't it the case that when making a derivative work from an open source design, that the derivative has to also be open source (i.e. not behind a paywall)?
The original licence that’s its free to remix even for commercial purposes. He should give credit though.
Like a link
I did not remix anything. I started from a blank screen in CAD, and based my measurements off the spools which I showed in the video. Every single facet of my design is my creation. Is a Tesla Model S a Remix of a Ford Taurus?
I created something similar to the one you're showing and I had a jam once because the spool holder was well, spooling effortless that the filament managed to unroll and caused it to wrapped itself on the bowden extruder lol It has to have a balance between spooling freely and enough tension so the filament stays on to the spool.
I started using a self centering (conical end) bearing design in..2012 I'm pretty sure...love how it rolls, HATED loading it though as I have a habit of changing spools frequently. Uses M8 similar to the one you showed from '13. But yeah...man I despise having to screw those cones together to swap spools. Definitely like your design!
I watched this video a couple weeks ago and ended up buying a spool barrell with bearings, about 5€ in aliexpress..
This makes sense if you have the bearings at home or if you enjoy doing it, but if you don't it's totally worth paying a little extra to get the piece already built.
Yep. There's pretty much nothing. That's worth DIYing anymore. Except that it feels good to accomplish things instead of just buying them.
Triple roller designs like the one Mark Rehorst designed and Deckingman uses are superior: filament physically cannot jump the side of the reel, so zero chance of a tangle. Yes, more bearings at needed, but that's a small price to pay for reliability. Plus, you don't have to unscrew anything to load a new spool. Insanely easy and quick. I have them in all my dryboxes.
At that print speed in the background you could weigh the spool down with a rock and it wouldn't make much of a difference.
I personally like the two Part spool holders (like the "tush" on thingiverse) where the spool rides on its outer walls best. Super easy to change spools, low material, very few points of failure.
I always have problems with the spool getting dragged out of it as the filament nears the end with the TUSH design. The last of.the filament usually feeds fine jammed sideways against my printer, but it is hardly ideal.
@@adaycj yep, same problem 😔
I haven't tried it myself, but a spool weight might help: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4266659
@D.P.T. you designed a good compliant mechanism, why not make your threaded connect surface compliant so you can pinch the outer ring part, slide it to approx. position then twist to fine adjust. This design looks good, just seems like a compliance mechanism would be perfect for this.
Very nice work my friend. I appreciate how you see failure, and potential failure in the everyday stuff we use in 3d printing. It's refreshing when someone finally stands up and says, "Not today, Satan... Not on my printer".... lol. I also appreciate your teaching technique. Keep it up man!
Another solution is to open the bearings, clean them and change the lubricant for grease. I have used it for other projects with the same purpose.
I, too, have put this off TOO LONG - putting up with kludged-up NON-solutions. My first attempt at a solution was a sitting stand with 4 bearings for the spool to sit ON, but that quickly proved inadequate when spool sizes started changing so much - in EVERY direction!
So this proffered design is fine, EXCEPT FOR - all the spools I have of Taulman's filaments on his OLD design spools - the little guys with the tiny hole for a spindle - don't remember the diameter, but I think it's under 20mm. What I'm working on is something to upgrade my standard Ender 3 holder to handle those little spools PLUS turn on bearings to get rid of the drag that makes my poor extruder work so hard. So - good job for handling all the ones you CAN fit....
Not sure if anyone has mentioned this in the 223 comments already, but one thing that could speed up filament changes is to change that keyed spindle to double keyways, then take your jam nut, and turn that into a keyed threaded nut so it slides onto the spindle through the key slots, then twists onto the threads to jam the outer cone into place. Put a couple of hand knobs, and you've also got the bolt lever of a bolt action mechanism.
Obviously there are other options as well, Since the spindle is there to position the outer cone, you can cut a third off top and bottom, use the flats to key the cone, and again cut a clearance path in the nut to slide on as well, then twist to secure.
Good Ideas!
Nice video!
Every printing enthusiast or professional would dial in the spool holder eg. free unwinding of the spool in the way it is best suited for the current needs and printer. I have few different printers in different configurations with single bearing spool holder and some work with increasing friction and some work directly. The holders that don't work in my opinion are the outside rim spool holders, ruined few important prototypes on those, luckily it was just PLA and not CF, even stock holders outperform them.
nice design. only issue is you deleted the jam nut. a jam nut exists when you have TWO threadings coming together. your cone unit slides on. so its no more tight than a simple threaded cone. ie you can eliminate one whole part by just building your plastic nut into your plastic cone.
He addressed exactly why he did that in the video. If the cone is the nut, it can be unscrewed by the spool and lose tension. By having the cone keyed and the nut to secure it, there is very little chance of the nut backing off.
.....orrrr just print it with left handed thread to alleviate the unscrewing problem....or flip the way you're mounting the spool.
Print the spool holder shaft w/out infill and the threads become a spring. Once the the flange is screwed slightly taut it will apply constant pressure and no reinforcing nut is necessary.
When will you have this added to your patreon file list?
Lol! I was thinking of printing myself one the other day. I’ll give yours a test! Thanks!
This is awesome!!! Im currently building an enclosure big enough for two of my ender 3’s and i was really wanting to find the best solution for spool holders to go above the enclosure. Im so glad you made this video when you did. Came in clutch as always :)
These remind me a lot of motorcycle tire balancers. I might have to use some of these ideas to make a static tire balancer for my jeep.
Went for the same solution few months ago. Works great.
Got all excited to finally build one of these today. Got everything printed and then ran to the hardware store. Came home and began assembly only to discover I didn't buy fully threaded bolts. Ugh, rookie mistake. LOL
You could have used a left turn thread simply and you would have not have to have a counter-nut. :)
Just like a box/table fan 👍
the longest Patreon tease I've ever sat through 🤦
With the first spool holder looked at (by emolan), you're actually looking at a remix that completely neglects the fact that the design was intended to be used with a tube/sleeve which is included in the files of the original creator's post. The flange wouldn't have been an issue. Just FYI
Worlds best ...? Are you from the USA?
watch the video, mate. it's clearly a joke. and he tells you it is before the intro starts
u mad bro?
You should be using washers when attaching the bolts to the metal bracket at 13:13 timestamp.
I've been using a similar design and I love it.
like bike cranks, they thread opposite rotations. Create a counter clockwise tighten thread pitch (opposite of 99% of applications) and no jam nut needed...
Until I forget and load the filament roll backwards so it is pulling with the opposite rotation. Not realizing my mistake until the spool falls off the printer.
I've had this idea for a while and wonder what you think. Since I have two extruder drivers on my mainboard, and the spare parts to make this work, I want to hook up the second extruder motor directly to the filament spool. This way, the filament would always be primed so the actual extruder has to do minimal work when it comes to pulling or pushing the filament from the spool during extrusions and retractions. The driver would obviously have to be tuned correctly for the amount of extrusion and the type of spool in order to rotate it the right amount (not to mention the diameter of the filament roll - there should be enough slop to make it work without being too exact though). More work than anyone would reasonably do, but I'm not all that reasonable.
Edit - not sure what happened to my comment so retyped it.
It's very doable by it violates the K.I.S.S. principle: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KISS_principle
Left-hand thread is a solution to do something that turns not to loosen. But nice design
Yup. So much easier since it's all 3dp anyway
I have been using them in a 4 spool drybox setup(the screw stays bolted, and they drop into "slot mounts") for about 3yrs, and was using them on a printer mounted or board mounted(one printer is mounted by a 2ft sq piece of MDF)
new spools self unwinding and the jumping the edge is the biggest issue
having a drybox is a necessity for exotics, and having multiple racked and ready to go is good for how often I change things
Sleek!
But.
Do we actually need some tension to keep filament on the spool from unwinding and entangling?
i think the first example will do just fine. just need to print an adaptor for any weird spools
14:05 This is the main issue with all skateboard bearings spool holders I've tested - they can unwind to easily. Not so sure of tightening the nut will be enough in the long run.
Have you heard Apple vs Samsung, just because you started from a blank screen and drew everything from scratch doesn't mean you didn't copy or remix. Apple sued Samsung for the Galaxy S cause it looked too much like the iPhone, both basic rectangle in shape and yet Apple won the copyright. I'm sure Samsung also started with a blank screen from scratch.
Apple had a patent. You are confusing intellectual patent law with "remixing" of digital models and the associated open source licensing. If I don't use the source code (the original model) and instead start from a blank screen then I am not bound by the GPL under which the source code was shared. Even if I had used the source code, according to the GPL v3.0 I am allowed to charge money or any other compensation I would like for my creation/addition. The GPL does require that I share the source code WITH MY PAYING CUSTOMERS if they ask for it, but I am not required to share with anybody else. I don't owe the freeloading a-holes of the world open access to my work. I'm not required to post my geometry anywhere. You aren't a virtuous champion of open source. You are attacking an impoverished RUclipsr who makes less than $5 per hour for my efforts here. You are demanding that I work for you for free. Furthermore, all these comments about this particular subject are from anonymous avatars with very new membership dates. You are a sock puppet master trying to convince me this is some kind of general public consensus. If your motivations were upstanding you would wouldn't be hiding in the shadows. You would show your face and honestly be representing yourself along with your message. What you are doing is shameful and you know. You are a shady piece of garbage trying to justify thievery.
Is it possible to eliminate the need of jam nut by using lefthand threads?
I was wondering the same thing.
If it is unwound, press left thread, the point will tighten the nut, you may have to install the drum in the opposite direction, and it is solved! This is an unnecessarily overcomplicated problem! I cut the original fixed ender spindle in two, put two bearings attached with printed rings and an 8mm shaft. working perfectly!
You are like the tenth person to leave this comment. What happens when you install the spool backwards? It pulls from the other side thus unwinding the reverse threads. My design is more foolproof and guaranteed not to fail.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I didn't criticize your plan, there's no problem with that! I just wrote that I think this is an overrated problem! I simply mounted the original cr3 axle and that's it.
I made a similar design. Good job, it's an excellent solution.
In many opportunities, the piece was damage because the filament balancing :/
8:45 Left hand thread would keep the 'nut' from coming undone.
What happens when you flip the spool and unroll the filament from the other side?
You should press bearings on by the outer race, not the center. Just a little force in the wrong axis can shorten the life of your bearings.
Printed and installed. Works great
Great design, as usual.
My flsun v400 holder was so loud. I put bicycle ball bearings in mine so it's unquestionably silent. A lot of these designs are similar to mine but mine has less parts than most and only loses out to the quickest in install/uninstall effort.
Can this setup work with a Neptune 3 pro, if not is there a solution for this. I have 2 pro 3s I would like to try out. thank you..
I conjured up something similar for my Ender 3 and I find it does need some sort of drag mechanism. I've leaned a paint brush against the spool but want to make something inside the tube. A light ratchet mechanism with a little forward drag as well would make it perfect.
You know, one simple TPU part should do the job. Just a tube with a couple of drag arms that fits snug over the bolt. Might even even be able to design it so you can adjust the drag by how much you squeeze it between a couple of nuts. Wanna race? lol. I'd rather just download yours you know. :)
I like the keyway design. Left hand square threads would be good. And one less component. and the largest polymer bearing you can fit in a assembly to work with your smallest filament rolls internal diameter. Help with the inertia
Of the roll. If you find it over rotating. Can even add thrust bearing to set a preload to get the perfect amount of resistance.
Ive been thinking these past weeks of making one of these myself. I wanted to get a cover for my spools to avoid dust while they sit around on the print, maybe I'll just make that part and add it in onto yours.
theres filament dryers that will act as a cover, the sunlu ive got has kinda meh bearings or fitment of them, but it is also a dryer too... ive never used mine directly with the printer, we have the ender 3 style one in the video which is nice :)
Such a lovely review of the new polyterra pla. If only it wasn’t all sold out I’d love to try some as well.
If you haven't checked recently I see most colors in stock on Amazon.com now.
I have been looking for a solution to the crappy spool holders. Wonderful and would love to print yours asap!
Sorry to repeat you suggestion before reading the comments. You beat me.
You didnt know you can spin the first nut too? So you dont need the second nut.
good work! maybe make the outer nut easier to grab and tighten? increase outer diameter of nut by 60% and make outer have 10-12 nubbed sphere removals for ergonomics
None of these address an issue making your extruder work harder at semi random times. Inertia.
When you pull the filament quickly it must accelerate the whole roll. There needs to be an auto feeder that keeps a zigzag of filament ready to be pulled without hitting the inertia if the whole spool. A motor keeps the zigzag bent (think like bellows expanding and contracting), so the printer never feels more than the mass of 20cm.
You could also reverse the thread of the screw?
I have the first one but it has to have the outer roller to work properly
Ii like this design a lot, but i have the new Creality Ender 3 S1 and the spool arm is two pieces that uses a twist to lock together system, so at the moment there s no way to mount this on the arm. Any chance of a design with this type of mounting?
Mate I just getting into 3d and you are going to be my channel thanks for the effort
Thanks for sharing!
Is the general concept proven to crack under pressure without the use of metal? I have prime, guess I just have an origami approach where it can be helped.
Too low of a friction makes the spool (especially full and heavy ones) continue to unwind due to inertia, which is dangerous considering the risk of tangle. So fo such a "perfect" frictionless holder, one eventually finds he has to slow down the unroll by _increasing friction_ with somme additional brake, making the original solution pointless.
my problem is, i got a 3 pack at new egg, and it has a 3" hole. Which so far everything I saw or made is either too small or too bulky. I plan to just make that one out of wood so its flat.
Hey man, your Patreon doesn't seem to work anymore but I'm super interested in these files! Where can I buy them from you?
In the background the printer is unspooling filament like crazy. Friction is your friend my friend.
side question, how are you liking that Polyterra PLA? On paper its cheap, matte, and great colors. Does it print well, easy to use?
Cut the lock that have minimal threads and go down over the keyway a half twist lock in place making a more rapid on and off?
Already order my berrings :)
Is the holder file available to non patreon?
Nice work!
Bestest best indeed!!!1 :)) Much appreciated, thanks!
I would like to try this sounds cool for my CR-10.
This is a nice design , I was thinking of using the same one from dukedoks for my Ender 3. I would love to use your design instead. Any chance you would consider selling it?
May require a keyway on both sides for centering purposes
So you remix creative common designs make a minor change and then charge for your remix. Wait you don't charge for the files to those that pay you a patreon fee - my bad.