After watching the video to learn how to assemble the spool holder, I watched it again to admire the video production and music. Great job on both the holder and video, thanks!
This is like dejavu for me......I was just pondering a solution for the retracted filament on my ERCF during filament swaps and I immediately thought to myself "spring that pre-tensions as the spool unwinds mounted on some sort of slip clutch on the spool axle would solve this! After a after a quick search I came across this! Bravo on the design; you beat me to it by what looks like three years! Thank you for sharing the files good sir it is greatly appreciated! You really deserve more subs.......In fact I can help with that as you've just gained one!
Really grateful you guys posted the step files too. Trying to make a version of this thats as thin as possible (including the stand) so that it fits inside a dry box.
This is amazing piece of genius engineering! So much better and reliable than the finicky Prusa MMU2S spool holder & buffer system. Printed this with Prusa i3 MK3S+MMU2S kit with 0.2mm layer Prusa PETG and I was amazed just how painless the assembly was.
This is exactly what I've been looking for for a week. Why on earth was this so hard for me to find.. :) But man was it worth the wait, what a gorgeous design and system you've come up with.
:facepalm: In retrospect the issue you point out at 5:35 should have been obvious, but I spent a lot of time fighting that exact problem this past spring and never made that realization. Thank you for this great video!
I must compliment you on the excellent balance between music and voice. It is way better than most RUclips videos which would be better off without any music as it is too intrusive. You, however, are masterful at this difficult balance!
@@lkibbler "Ich muss Ihnen ein Kompliment machen für die ausgezeichnete Balance zwischen Musik und Stimme. Sie ist viel besser als die meisten RUclips-Videos, die ohne Musik besser aufgehoben wären, da sie zu aufdringlich ist. Sie sind jedoch meisterhaft in dieser schwierigen Balance !" Wenn´s so schlitzohrig gemeint ist wie es klingt - dann mein Kompliment ! Bleibt trotzdem die Frage, warum YT nicht endlich die Möglichkeit schafft, Text zu hören ohne von "Musik" belästigt zu werden. Das gilt natürlich ebenso oder noch mehr für´s TV, das ja mit seinen Zwangs-Gebühren diktieren kann. If it is meant as sly as it sounds - then my compliment! Still the question remains why YT does not finally create the possibility to listen to texts without being bothered by "music". Of course this is also true for TV, which can dictate with its compulsory fees.
Great idea and job...needed this, works great thanks! #Update in agreement with other commenter on design/print issue but does work okay with single spring. This filament spool is a definite must for Ender 6 to help with poor feeder part quality and design...you're welcome lol
this is so cool! sadly I like my spool holder moounted to the side of my printer D: also I don't like having to screw in the filament like that! but this is so amazing for MMU!
Nice! I had not thought of using a clutch to harness the unwinding of the filament to wind the spring! I figured it would need to be wound manually like an old pocket watch.
No but to roll up the filament after the change if you print several filaments, so that it can not get tangled. Useful for e.g. MMU from Prusa or ERCF for Klipper printer
I printed 5 of these (started with this design, then modified to hang upside-down under a cabinet) a couple years ago to feed my Prusa MMU2. They worked great for a while, but I'm finding that the clutch is no longer working properly in most of them. Does the spring need reprinted after a while?
@@VincentGroenhuis It's too bad that there isn't some source for a metal sprint, like in old grandfather clocks, but that aren't too strong. I don't know of a way to make one. The thing is, 5 years later and right now, owners of a Creality Ender 3 V3 Plus sure could use one of these. They put the spool on the right side of the machine and the big problem that everyone is experiencing, is when the printer does homing and the gantry travels up to the top to hit the limit switch, the filament unwinds. But when the gantry comes back down to the bed, the filament can't rewind back into the spool so it just sprints all over the place, always getting stuck. Either over the edges of the spool and/or gets caught up around the motor on that side and even grabs the motor's cable connector. It's a really poor design there. Some of us have just moved the spool to the top and made an extension cable for the runout sensor that we also move to the top. This solves that problem but can introduce another where, again, when the gantry goes to the top, it gets within a few mm, the filament gets bend to almost 45 degrees and often, SNAP! I'm redesigning that now to allow a more gentle curve at that point. But having a spool rewinder that doesn't need constant repair, would be good. LOL
Great video. Good narration, quick and to the point without a lot of bombastic LIKE SHARE SUBSCRIBE stuff. Reminds me of an old PBS carpentry instructional video (in a good way!). Nice print, it looks functional and is BEAUTIFUL with the multicolor printing.
Oh man, I've so got to borrow that centre hub design to rewrawp filament in an orderly manner but just going from one spool to to another to fix a tangled mess.
Hi, sorry kind of a dumb question, I've printed it all except for the stand thats pritning now, when you say "make sure the clutch slips" what does that mean exactly, like its able to pull without adding more tension to the spring?
Pardon my ignorance but for what is this used for? I mean, what happens in the case that the tension reach its max limit and printer keeps dragging filament? Sorry for my poor english, greetings from mexico
I was going to print the RepWinder then I found this and it doesn't require any additional non-3d printed parts (apart from bearings (which I have lots left over from when there was a fidget spinner printing craze)). I'll being printing this instead.
RESURRECTION! When the Printer raises and when a Multi Material Unit retracts filament, That material goes back toward the spool. Without the Slip Clutch system, that filament just starts creating a rats nest and begins falling out the sides of the spool or worse, the filament gets stuck under more of the same material of the spool and stops moving all together.
I am trying to get this to work. I am using the v3.4 spring. It seems that the spool pulls the filament a little too much and I can the filament in the PTFE team (from MMU2 to the spool). Any tips?
My printed spring was a total failure. The bottom and upper spart of the spring are almost fuzed together, same for the spring to the hub. How did you get the print so clean. I'm printing on a BLV mod printer with a bowden setup.
Try lower temp, higher speed, higher cooling fan, no Z hop on retract, different material type (PLA or PETG). Otherwise I don't know but you can also revert to the simple v1.01 spring.
Same issue, but does work on top spring releasing, printed three times no support, no raft/skirt or brim and reduced bed heat nozzle temp etc. 2nd layer height...nothing works to free inner bottom spring...fused to bottom circular shroud as you say.
I just got my first 3D printer. I have only made three things on it, and my filiment was coming off the spool and tangling and messing up my prints. So I'm trying to figure out what spool holder i should print to use intead of the one that came with my printer. My question is... is this for normal use, or is this only for when loading/unloading the filiment? I'm sorry, it's a newbie question, but I can't figure out if it is meant to be used in normal oporation of the printer too.
Get -2Z shield option bearings instead of -2RS, problem solved. Putting the unshielded bearings back in there is not so smart... they'll collect dust and will require maintenance.
it is basically meant to keep the spool from having too much slack as the extruder moves toward it pushing the filament back toward the spool. Sometimes filament can slip off the spool if there is too much slack in it. I personally think best example for this would be on Delta Printers because when the print finishes it homes to the top pushing the filament back toward the spool in most cases. So that is where I think they type of retractable spool system would work best.
Its for multimaterial units where you have to retract huge sections of filament while switching filament. If it doesnt go back on the spool it will get tangled and jam
Cool mechanism though it looks like changing filament will be chore. What’s the advantage over using just a brake? Do you use retraction of several 100mm? :D
Waar is het purge block? Ik zie een vol printbed maar geen groot purge block! Ik maak gebruik van de MK3S met MMU2S maar krijg het nog niet foutloos aan het werk. Zo te zien gebruiken julllie ook een setup van Prusa, dus mochten er nog tips zijn... Ik houd mij aanbevolen!
@@VincentGroenhuis Thanks just saw this and was like man this could fix the issue of my filament getting loose and falling off spool while printing and will be a quality of life thing.
Bearings type "608" were supplied by Prusa with the original spool holders, but can also be ordered from various mechanical engineering shops. You can also use skate bearings.
I printed everything correctly using the latest modular spring but.. it does not rewind. I tried both PLA and PETG with no results, there is too much friction. I guess i wasted my time and material. Please help me Vincent, the problem is the spring.
@@xAaronGamer Oops, ok. Can you make a video, then I can look at it. Hard to help from a distance. Why is the friction there? Parts rubbing against each other? If you remove the spring does it roll smoothly?
This is good solution but a piece of sponge, clipped right on the fillament at the beginnig of the tube, does the job without any springs creating gentle resistance and cleaning the filament simultaneously ;)
The spring for this set up is not well designed. it is literally the only item i have ever had fail with good first layer adhesion. What happens is the spring comes loose during printing and then wraps around the print head causing a crash. rethink its design . My advise to anyone thinking about this design is print the spring first, because if it fails there is no point in continuing.
@@VincentGroenhuis to make this print right I had to enforce supports. Which makes it very difficult to post process without breaking the spring. I would also recommend making the spool nut cone shaped so when you screw it on it auto centers the spool. Some of the nut pieces do this if you put them on backwards. Ibeleive there is also a way to increase spring tension by baking the spring at 175 degrees for 20 minutes or so. Not sure on that. Mostly a good design, update the instructions with print tips for the spring.
Check the slicer output layer view, is there a gap (skipped layer)? If yes: you can reduce layer bonding by increasing printing speed and fan, by lowering temperature and/or by changing to a different material. You can also try separating using a knife from outwards.
![Gucci Mane & Sexyy Red - You Don't Love Me [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j7IBqyFKT4c/mqdefault.jpg)
This really is genius! The amount of engineering that has to have gone in this is incredible!
Thanks!
After watching the video to learn how to assemble the spool holder, I watched it again to admire the video production and music. Great job on both the holder and video, thanks!
This is like dejavu for me......I was just pondering a solution for the retracted filament on my ERCF during filament swaps and I immediately thought to myself "spring that pre-tensions as the spool unwinds mounted on some sort of slip clutch on the spool axle would solve this! After a after a quick search I came across this! Bravo on the design; you beat me to it by what looks like three years! Thank you for sharing the files good sir it is greatly appreciated! You really deserve more subs.......In fact I can help with that as you've just gained one!
I wonder how many people watch this to the end. VERY MESMERIZING.
I finally printed this out over the past few days and it is a fantastically done piece of engineering. Very nice.
Thank you for your kind words!
Thats awesome! Firstly i thought this was a original prusa video. You have the same voice like the ppl wo make the videos for prusa.
The voice is not mine, but spoken by Tim de Man!
@@VincentGroenhuis kan tim beter engels dan jou? (Ik heb geen idee waarom er ik stond)
@@vonckjenl3633 I think so!
Really grateful you guys posted the step files too. Trying to make a version of this thats as thin as possible (including the stand) so that it fits inside a dry box.
What a professional - the design, the presentation and the production! You are an inspiration to many. Thank you for everything!
This is amazing piece of genius engineering! So much better and reliable than the finicky Prusa MMU2S spool holder & buffer system.
Printed this with Prusa i3 MK3S+MMU2S kit with 0.2mm layer Prusa PETG and I was amazed just how painless the assembly was.
Bee-U-Tee-Ful 2 color print! Nice mechanism. Definitely on my "to-make" list. Thank You.
This is exactly what I've been looking for for a week. Why on earth was this so hard for me to find.. :) But man was it worth the wait, what a gorgeous design and system you've come up with.
:facepalm: In retrospect the issue you point out at 5:35 should have been obvious, but I spent a lot of time fighting that exact problem this past spring and never made that realization. Thank you for this great video!
very slick. I will try this for my home printer, and if it works we'll use it for our printers at work. Thanks for sharing.
Just made this. realized i had no bearings in the right size. 3D printed some bearings. not the best in the world but it works!
What a quality video, well narrated and everything !
Everything about this video is just .. so.. beau..tiful .. I AM GONNA CRYYYY!!
Thanks for letting me do the music again! =)
I must compliment you on the excellent balance between music and voice. It is way better than most RUclips videos which would be better off without any music as it is too intrusive. You, however, are masterful at this difficult balance!
@@lkibbler "Ich muss Ihnen ein Kompliment machen für die ausgezeichnete Balance zwischen Musik und Stimme. Sie ist viel besser als die meisten RUclips-Videos, die ohne Musik besser aufgehoben wären, da sie zu aufdringlich ist. Sie sind jedoch meisterhaft in dieser schwierigen Balance !"
Wenn´s so schlitzohrig gemeint ist wie es klingt - dann mein Kompliment !
Bleibt trotzdem die Frage, warum YT nicht endlich die Möglichkeit schafft, Text zu hören ohne von "Musik" belästigt zu werden.
Das gilt natürlich ebenso oder noch mehr für´s TV, das ja mit seinen Zwangs-Gebühren diktieren kann.
If it is meant as sly as it sounds - then my compliment!
Still the question remains why YT does not finally create the possibility to listen to texts without being bothered by "music".
Of course this is also true for TV, which can dictate with its compulsory fees.
What is the title of this song you made!
@@johnny5634 No title, just wrote it for the video =) . I have plenty of original work on timdeman.bandcamp.com if you'd like to hear more!
What an outstanding design! Great! :)
Great idea and job...needed this, works great thanks! #Update in agreement with other commenter on design/print issue but does work okay with single spring. This filament spool is a definite must for Ender 6 to help with poor feeder part quality and design...you're welcome lol
this is so cool! sadly I like my spool holder moounted to the side of my printer D: also I don't like having to screw in the filament like that! but this is so amazing for MMU!
That's amazing! Time to make one!!
really like your printer...been wanting to get a dual extrusion setup. Yours looks awesome
Nice! I had not thought of using a clutch to harness the unwinding of the filament to wind the spring! I figured it would need to be wound manually like an old pocket watch.
Seriously impressive design! I love this! Will have to find your files and make one! Won't be as cool as yours though
Glad to hear that my ones will always be cooler than yours ;-) But I've seen pretty nice color combinations in the wild though. Have fun!
Vincent, what a sublime creation!
this is genious
Mooi heren! Super strak filmpje voor een super strakke spool holder! Ik ga er wat printen!
outstanding model, but I am trying to understand the use case here. is it to change filament more quickly after you finish?
No but to roll up the filament after the change if you print several filaments, so that it can not get tangled. Useful for e.g. MMU from Prusa or ERCF for Klipper printer
it keeps the filament in tension when you unload the filament from the printer.
Awesome work man
Erg mooi ontwerp, Vincent!
Bedankt voor het maken en natuurlijk ook het delen!
i was about to design this myself. great work!
I printed 5 of these (started with this design, then modified to hang upside-down under a cabinet) a couple years ago to feed my Prusa MMU2. They worked great for a while, but I'm finding that the clutch is no longer working properly in most of them. Does the spring need reprinted after a while?
Yes, PLA spring gets weaker over time, there are a few good remixes around with PETG spring inside a cup.
@@VincentGroenhuis Thanks for the quick reply. I'll look around for the PETG remixes. I like my setup a lot...don't want to change. 🙂
@@VincentGroenhuis It's too bad that there isn't some source for a metal sprint, like in old grandfather clocks, but that aren't too strong.
I don't know of a way to make one.
The thing is, 5 years later and right now, owners of a Creality Ender 3 V3 Plus sure could use one of these.
They put the spool on the right side of the machine and the big problem that everyone is experiencing, is when the printer does homing and the gantry travels up to the top to hit the limit switch, the filament unwinds. But when the gantry comes back down to the bed, the filament can't rewind back into the spool so it just sprints all over the place, always getting stuck. Either over the edges of the spool and/or gets caught up around the motor on that side and even grabs the motor's cable connector.
It's a really poor design there.
Some of us have just moved the spool to the top and made an extension cable for the runout sensor that we also move to the top. This solves that problem but can introduce another where, again, when the gantry goes to the top, it gets within a few mm, the filament gets bend to almost 45 degrees and often, SNAP! I'm redesigning that now to allow a more gentle curve at that point.
But having a spool rewinder that doesn't need constant repair, would be good. LOL
Great video. Good narration, quick and to the point without a lot of bombastic LIKE SHARE SUBSCRIBE stuff. Reminds me of an old PBS carpentry instructional video (in a good way!). Nice print, it looks functional and is BEAUTIFUL with the multicolor printing.
wow what a cool presentation of a just as cool 3D Print thing! bravo!
I like this concept.
Oh man, I've so got to borrow that centre hub design to rewrawp filament in an orderly manner but just going from one spool to to another to fix a tangled mess.
Hi, sorry kind of a dumb question, I've printed it all except for the stand thats pritning now, when you say "make sure the clutch slips" what does that mean exactly, like its able to pull without adding more tension to the spring?
Yes! If you put the clutch too tight then the spring would eventually try to destroy itself.
What did you use to do the multi colors on this print? It looks like you made your spring from purge material.
Purge, correct! Prusa MMU2. There is also a separate small wipe&prime tower.
What sized baring does it require? This is not apparent in any of the instructions that I can see. I thought this thing was 100% printable.
Type "608"! A bunch of them are supplied along with the MMU2.
Amazing design and video! :)
Well done!
Really good idea
Pardon my ignorance but for what is this used for? I mean, what happens in the case that the tension reach its max limit and printer keeps dragging filament? Sorry for my poor english, greetings from mexico
The clutch will let it slip.
this would work great with ercf
I was going to print the RepWinder then I found this and it doesn't require any additional non-3d printed parts (apart from bearings (which I have lots left over from when there was a fidget spinner printing craze)). I'll being printing this instead.
Why do I need this?
you dont
pretty sure unless you are making multi filament prints on the regular you don't
RESURRECTION! When the Printer raises and when a Multi Material Unit retracts filament, That material goes back toward the spool. Without the Slip Clutch system, that filament just starts creating a rats nest and begins falling out the sides of the spool or worse, the filament gets stuck under more of the same material of the spool and stops moving all together.
I am trying to get this to work. I am using the v3.4 spring. It seems that the spool pulls the filament a little too much and I can the filament in the PTFE team (from MMU2 to the spool). Any tips?
Great work!!! amazing design ;-D
My printed spring was a total failure. The bottom and upper spart of the spring are almost fuzed together, same for the spring to the hub. How did you get the print so clean. I'm printing on a BLV mod printer with a bowden setup.
Try lower temp, higher speed, higher cooling fan, no Z hop on retract, different material type (PLA or PETG). Otherwise I don't know but you can also revert to the simple v1.01 spring.
Print the modular v3.4 spring which is super easy to print.
Same issue, but does work on top spring releasing, printed three times no support, no raft/skirt or brim and reduced bed heat nozzle temp etc. 2nd layer height...nothing works to free inner bottom spring...fused to bottom circular shroud as you say.
Underrated!
Dit is echt een gigantisch goed idee. Veel beter dan dat onhandige Prusa buffer apparaat. Maar: is deze ook voor XL/2kg rollen geschikt?
Yes, a 3 kg stand is available!
Dude....you rock!
Does this cause an issue for retraction during printing?
No
I just got my first 3D printer. I have only made three things on it, and my filiment was coming off the spool and tangling and messing up my prints. So I'm trying to figure out what spool holder i should print to use intead of the one that came with my printer. My question is... is this for normal use, or is this only for when loading/unloading the filiment? I'm sorry, it's a newbie question, but I can't figure out if it is meant to be used in normal oporation of the printer too.
Also fine for normal use :-)
@@VincentGroenhuis thank you so much for replying!!! I really appreciate it!
What happens, if you want to print the whole spool of filament. Can the string be "overstreched"?
No, there is a clutch
Whats the best material when printing this? PLA or PETG?
Both should work. Be sure to use v3.4 for the spring. I normally use PLA but that is a personal preference.
Get -2Z shield option bearings instead of -2RS, problem solved. Putting the unshielded bearings back in there is not so smart... they'll collect dust and will require maintenance.
I don't understand what problem this solves...
it is basically meant to keep the spool from having too much slack as the extruder moves toward it pushing the filament back toward the spool. Sometimes filament can slip off the spool if there is too much slack in it.
I personally think best example for this would be on Delta Printers because when the print finishes it homes to the top pushing the filament back toward the spool in most cases. So that is where I think they type of retractable spool system would work best.
Its for multimaterial units where you have to retract huge sections of filament while switching filament. If it doesnt go back on the spool it will get tangled and jam
Cool mechanism though it looks like changing filament will be chore. What’s the advantage over using just a brake? Do you use retraction of several 100mm? :D
Yes, you need ~500 mm retraction for het multi-material MMU2 setup!
But Why i don't see the use what issue does it solve?
The issues are: filament load/unload problems, and multi-material setup (Prusa's MMU2) taking up too much space
Yeah, it's pretty much a solution searching for a problem.
Waar is het purge block? Ik zie een vol printbed maar geen groot purge block! Ik maak gebruik van de MK3S met MMU2S maar krijg het nog niet foutloos aan het werk. Zo te zien gebruiken julllie ook een setup van Prusa, dus mochten er nog tips zijn... Ik houd mij aanbevolen!
I use "wipe to object" (the spring) so the purge block is super small!
@@VincentGroenhuis ahh.. thanks! That was it! Thanks! I'm going to do that.
What Bearing did you use?
Normal skateboard bearings, or better called 608rs/608zz
hey I'm curious about the product you spray on the print table at the start of the video, any info on that?
3D LAC!
@@VincentGroenhuis Thanks, great project btw
nice clutch :)
;)
I would like to know what you sprayed on the print bed
3D LAC
Well done !
Georgeus!
Спасибо за видео.
what kind of bearings there are many sizes of bearings
Type "608", any subtype is fine, eg 608ZZ or 608RS.
@@VincentGroenhuis Thanks just saw this and was like man this could fix the issue of my filament getting loose and falling off spool while printing and will be a quality of life thing.
What green is that? I really like it
Most likely Makerpoint Yellow Green, ordered back in 2017: www.makerpoint.nl/nl/makerpoint-pla-750gr-yellow-green.html
Can these holders fit into a Repbox?
There is a special version for Repbox: the RepRewind!
Do you have the original step files available?
Yes, see Thingiverse
videos that make me feel dumb
which file is this AMF MM Single or Step?
Depends, what do you need?
where do the bearings come from?
Bearings type "608" were supplied by Prusa with the original spool holders, but can also be ordered from various mechanical engineering shops. You can also use skate bearings.
@@VincentGroenhuis thank you!
How did you print this without purge block?
With purge block! Yes, it is there...
@@VincentGroenhuis purge block not on the build plate?
Purge block is on the build plate. It is small as "wipe to object" is also used.
@@VincentGroenhuis oh ok, I might have missed it on your video
@@alvint4944 Found the purge block yet? :-)
How did you achieve dual colors?
I use the MMU2 which allows to switch between five colors!
@@VincentGroenhuis thanks
this looks interesting but it adds too much unnecessary noise.
that's so sick why did i never hear about this 🥺
I printed everything correctly using the latest modular spring but.. it does not rewind. I tried both PLA and PETG with no results, there is too much friction.
I guess i wasted my time and material.
Please help me Vincent, the problem is the spring.
Where exactly is the friction?
@@VincentGroenhuis The spring does not unroll smoothly
@@xAaronGamer Try the v3.4 modular spring
@@VincentGroenhuis that's the version i tried, i wrote it
@@xAaronGamer Oops, ok. Can you make a video, then I can look at it. Hard to help from a distance. Why is the friction there? Parts rubbing against each other? If you remove the spring does it roll smoothly?
Impressive! 😀
do you work for a german engineering company? because this is overengineered for what its use is LOL
Thanks,
This is good solution but a piece of sponge, clipped right on the fillament at the beginnig of the tube, does the job without any springs creating gentle resistance and cleaning the filament simultaneously ;)
So, What's How to use Rewinder?
Fantastic design, terrible video. Thumbs up
lol "cleaning bearings"
🖖 👍
so what does this solve a problem for? I have an ender 3 pro so not sure the application?
If you have a multi material printer like the Prusa MMU, it helps keep the filament from getting tangled
not much use for single material printer.
The spring for this set up is not well designed. it is literally the only item i have ever had fail with good first layer adhesion. What happens is the spring comes loose during printing and then wraps around the print head causing a crash. rethink its design . My advise to anyone thinking about this design is print the spring first, because if it fails there is no point in continuing.
That's why I designed the v3.4 modular spring!
@@VincentGroenhuis to make this print right I had to enforce supports. Which makes it very difficult to post process without breaking the spring. I would also recommend making the spool nut cone shaped so when you screw it on it auto centers the spool. Some of the nut pieces do this if you put them on backwards. Ibeleive there is also a way to increase spring tension by baking the spring at 175 degrees for 20 minutes or so. Not sure on that. Mostly a good design, update the instructions with print tips for the spring.
You don't need supports for v3.4 modular spring
The spool nuts already auto center the spool 😉
Worked no problem for me, no raft, no supports needed outside of main stand unit
I enjoyed the music more than the ARSH (I don't have an MMU or ERCF, so no real use for it ;) ) !
my spring is weld solid in the center
Check the slicer output layer view, is there a gap (skipped layer)? If yes: you can reduce layer bonding by increasing printing speed and fan, by lowering temperature and/or by changing to a different material. You can also try separating using a knife from outwards.
@@VincentGroenhuis Merci! Thank You:)
Most annoying music award!!!
Не, ну если ретракт настроен на километр, то я не спорю, полезная вещь 🤣🤣🤣
Так оно разработано для MMU2, там ретракт неизбежно будет добрый метр
😘👍👋🇨🇭
Oh, what a horrible music!
Flattened by your comment!!!
Such a poor complicated design. ridiculous
Where's your design? yeah thought so..
@@drood78 I don't need to design one, but if I did it wouldn't be as crap as this turd on wheels. Speaking of turds hi.
This content is pure gold, great work!! Very underrated work