Clear Resins and Cleaners Test
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- Опубликовано: 12 дек 2024
- I try out various resins and cleaners to see what comes out the clearest from a small sampling. Resins used: Voxelab Transparent, Siraya Tech Simple Clear, Monocure Crystal Clear Tuff, Nova3d Ultra Clear High Transparency, and Monocure Rapid Clear. Cleaners used: Isopropyl Alcohol, Ethanol, Monocure Resin Away, Mean Green, and Simple Green
See what combination will work for you.
Check out my web store 3DM Tabletop for all your dungeons and dragons minis, custom dice and accessories: 3dmtabletop.com
Kobold Models by Bryan Schlossbauer:
/ schlossbauer
www.thingivers...
Resins:
Voxelab Transparent- www.voxelab3dp...
Siraya Tech Simple Clear- siraya.tech/pr... (Affiliate Link)
Monocure Crystal Clear Tuff- monocure3d.com...
Nova3d Ultra Clear High Transparency- www.amazon.com...
Monocure Rapid Clear- monocure3d.com...
Thank you making this video and putting in the effort! Straight to the point video filled with content like in the old days of RUclips.
When pouring from containers like the 5 Litre ones, pour with the spout at the highest point. This allows better air intake and virtually eliminates the 'glugging'
Also laying/pouring the container on its side helps :-)
Man this video was a lifesaver. I'm new to 3d printing and have been wanting to get into clear and this made up my mind.
That's a ton of work! Thank you for doing this!
Thanks for sharing, working on a project and plan of getting some transparent resin for the first time.
Debating between Elegoo and Siraya, only been using Siraya Tech Fast Grey so far and it’s been working great.
Subscribed! really very useful, please keep making this type of content. Thanks.
Many thumbs up for this video!
Awesome research! Thanks for your help!
You just saved me 170 dollars on the Resinaway.... My prints are still tacky after IPA rinse/scrub, mean green wash in a anycubic and then sprayed off with IPA prior to curing... Maybe I need to increase the cure times but at 6 minutes the prints are wet with resin. This shit is crazy for trial and error. Great video, saved me a lot of time.
ill tell ya, im just using IPA right now, spray off the worst with IPA from a squirt bottle, shake it around in a tub with IPA. and excess IPA mixed with any uncured resin i remove using compressed dry air. does the trick
Crushed it with this
I used up 1 liter of rubber Nova 3D and could not even get an average result. Always delamination and model breaks when printed.
You mentioned IPA is the cheapest but in brick and mortar in the USA I can get 1 gallon of mean green for $6.50 and 1 gallon on 99% IPA for $20
True, I meant for me out of the recommended cleaners meant for UV resin prints. I would not recommend using any household cleaners or degreasers as they are not meant for that use and, for me, had adverse effects on the prints.
Wow! Such a great video! Thanks a lot. I only have one question - what's inside the ultrasonic cleaner when you put the bags with cleaners inside of it? Could it be just water to transfer the sound waves into the actual prints and the liquid that's inside the bags? Thanks in advance.
Correct, it is just water and then I just use baggies to quickly change out cleaners without having to dump out, clean and refill the whole tank each time. I leave the baggies unzipped when in use in the ultrasonic cleaner so that there is a vent for vapors and seal them when not in use to reduce evaporation.
This was some effort. Thanks
I saw another Nova3D clear video and was skeptical until I saw this video. This is a perfect comparison. You even cured for extra long to amplify the yellowing effect! Do you think think the Nova3D will remain that clear in the long-term?
I'm no expert, but all the clear resins I've used have yellowed over time with more exposure to UV light (playing with minis outside, sunlight through a window to the print sitting on a shelf, etc.), but this resin does appear to have much better resistance to yellowing and could potentially stay very clear for a long time, especially if it is rarely exposed to UV light. Of course, time and amount of UV exposure will tell.
@@geek-happens Thanks for this video. Do you not coat your prints with any UV protective coating?
@@skyrider4789 I usually don't, but I have started to use a UV cut if I happen to do something in clear ruclips.net/video/g4yWnVuMaW0/видео.html
Thank you very much for making this video. Love all the experimentations you did. Which ones are the most and least viscous? I have been wanting to print with effect powders, and have been wanting to find the most viscous ones.
You'll want to check the viscosity with the manufacturers to be certain, but from a quick poor and stick dipping test, most are about the same, but the Siraya Tech simple is very noticeably the thinnest, almost water-like. So my guesstimate with all the clear resins I currently have on hand is from thickest to thinnest: [Voxelab Transparent, eSun PMMA-like, Monocure Rapid Clear]
Thank you for this video. Great to see a comparison between these. I've owned a Mono X for only a few days but ordered the Nova3D Ultra Clear resin (other resin I got has been fairly easy), before researching more to learn that clear resins can take a bit more "finesse" to get good results. I've had several failed prints, probably due to under-exposure time, and watching a different YT video, supports seem to fuse to the model easily and result in resin being more usable for a model directly sitting on build plate (and one that doesn't require supports)... not as good for minis.
What settings did you use for this? Results here look great, although can't tell how the supports would go. 6s normal exposure time seems recommended from Nova3D.
The settings I used on my Mono SE was 4 bottom layers at 25 seconds with normal layers at 5 seconds. I almost always print my minis with the base flat on the build plate and use modified light or medium supports using formware 3D
Thanks for the video! It's very concise. I have an on topic but slightly tangential question: I'll be receiving a transparent print from a third party. It looked super clear as it was being printed but now that it's post-processed (probably with Isopropyl and water) it's pretty frosted looking. Once I get the print in hand, would you have a suggestion for how to get it looking clearer without sanding? (it's very curvy and full of details I think would be hard to access to sand). Someone suggested "Tamiya Clear coat". Would it really be that simple?
A clear coat can help, I typically cure clear prints for only about 2 minutes and then apply a UV protective coat to help prevent it from yellowing. If you use a gloss coating, it should bring out more of the transparency
@@geek-happens Hey mate have you noticed which yellows more between the Tuff and the Nova3d? As well as increase in brittleness now that it has been like a year and half?
@@La838 I haven't noticed a difference in yellowing, applying a UV protective coat after a short post cure seems to work well. From my experience, most resins get more brittle over time, but the "tuff" ones (or those with added flexibility) tend to be less brittle.
For smoky black siraya tech what do you recommend for bottom exposure and normal exposure settings?
It depends on your machine, always start with the recommended settings from the resin manufacturer. siraya.tech/pages/support
Hi, thanks for share, ¿how does this parts work at outdoors?
I wouldn't recommend using UV resin products outdoors for long periods of time. They will become yellow and brittle faster. That being said, I play D&D with printed miniatures outdoors all the time, sometimes they get dropped and break, but I just print more if needed.
Hi there,
Could you please tell me the layer thickness you usedfor the nova 3d high-transparency material?
They were all printed at the default 50 micron
the cost is really dependent on the country u live in, over here rinse away is cheaper than ipa, and it doesn't break down as much as the ipa so u dont need to replace it as often, u didn't mention that, the upfront might be more in the states but u are not replacing it as often so its actually cheaper
Good points, thanks for sharing. I personally prefer IPA, but definitely use what works best for you.
ruclips.net/video/orAPv-1CqK8/видео.html
Could you share your settings? I also own a photon mono SE
Its best to contact the resin manufacturer, they should be able to provide you with some good starting settings. These may need some tweaking, but this is what I have: Monocure Tuff Crystal Clear (Bottom: 4 Layers at 35s, Normal Layers: 3s, Z-lift: 6mm at 240mm/min), Nova3D Ultra Clear (Bottom: 6 Layers at 25s, Normal Layers: 5.5s, Z-lift: 6mm at 240mm/min), Voxelab Clear (Bottom: 6 Layers at 35s, Normal Layers: 3s, Z-lift: 6mm at 240mm/min), eSun Clear PMMA-Like (Bottom: 5 Layers at 30s, Normal Layers: 5s, Z-lift: 6mm at 70mm/min) I hope that gives you a good start.
I'm having the issue that my resin is pooling and harding around my supports, is this problem cause by my supports or over exposure?? Or both ? Im a total newbie.
If it is at the build plate, that is common, if its above, then yes, likely over exposure. Contact the resin manufacturer for recommended print settings of their resin with your machine, they can give you at least a good starting point. Some printers also have calibration tests you can run that prints the same test part at different exposure timings (like Anycubic RERF) that will also help
I am looking for a resin to print window for a model. Could anyone please help.
Sorry for the late reply, I'm finishing up another clear resins test and if you're wanting the most clarity, nova3d ulta clear is still the clearest, but resione G217 is a very close second and appears to be easier to print with, but is more pricey. Siraya Tech Craft Clear is also a good clear resin that is easy to print with. You'll also want to coat your finished print in a UV protectant that will also help it be more transparent.
There's no final sheet with results. How IPA compares to Ethanol, for example? Which is the second clear resin? So much time wasted, useless.