Track rod end replacement - Land Rover Freelander 2

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Комментарии • 11

  • @badrallach4792
    @badrallach4792 20 дней назад +1

    Nicely done, I use a bit heat from a small blow torch, never let's me down. My dad called it the hot spanner 😅

  • @struanrobertson3417
    @struanrobertson3417 20 дней назад

    Good job.

  • @ton1813
    @ton1813 19 дней назад +1

    Use a crows foot spanner at 90 deg with your torque wrench to do the nut.

    • @BeavisPits
      @BeavisPits  19 дней назад

      Thanks, was at a car show today and saw a set of Crowsfoot spanners but they had forgotten their card machine so we’re only taking cash. I’ll find someone online. Thanks for the advice. Not heard if these before.

  • @marcus_jones
    @marcus_jones 17 дней назад +1

    PlusGas is a much better release agent than WD40 on tightly connected parts. Give it a go, I think you'll be impressed. 😊

    • @BeavisPits
      @BeavisPits  17 дней назад +1

      Yep, used it before, have run out!

  • @MikeSmith-tg1ku
    @MikeSmith-tg1ku 20 дней назад +1

    Are you sure the spliter tool will also fit the ball joint on the control arm
    Have you tried it ?

    • @BeavisPits
      @BeavisPits  20 дней назад

      No, I’ve not tried it myself but have heard of people using it on that balljoint. I’ll have to try it now!

  • @spooner1949
    @spooner1949 21 день назад

    Hitting on the top only strengthens the joint, you should be hitting from underneath. I have removed these joints with nothing more than a hammer hitting underneath.

    • @BeavisPits
      @BeavisPits  21 день назад

      Do you mean hitting the track rod end body downwards? Yes that will help, if you can get the hammer in there.

    • @spooner1949
      @spooner1949 20 дней назад

      @@BeavisPits Once you've removed the nut from the ball joint, contrary to what you would think, hit the ball joint from underneath, not the threaded end. It's totally the opposite to what you would logically expect to do, but it works.