Yes that’s the second piece of damaged wiring / loom that I’ve found, the other being near the starter motor on my gearbox video. Might be worth you flagging this on one of your videos Scott as you reach a wider audience.
Lol, I did this a gew months back. Exhaust manifold to turbo bolts keep coming undone leading to further turbo underboosts. Considering putting some nuts and threadlock on them
Oh that’s a worry. I did toy with the idea of putting some thread lock on but as the originals were so tight I decided against it. Hope I don’t live to regret that! Did you use new bolts?
@@garyredman642retightened and they came loose a few days later. Need to get some new bolts I guess. Can you access the heads of the bolts from the top behind the scuttle panel?
@@HaggisMuncher-y2u sadly I don’t think you can get the bolts out without removing the EGR valve and cooler. You could probably get a spanner in under the cooler to undo them, but I don’t think there would be enough room to withdraw the bolts.
Been there done it. Its actually easier for access if you drop the sub-frame and suspension off out of the way. Even better, drop the engine on the floor and swap the turbo out.
Brilliant video Gary... Between this and the EGR video - they are gold... The 'yap yap yap' noise you play at the end is one of the faults i have along with a low fuel rail pressure which i have been chasing to no avail. Car conks out on idle and when driving. Im about to jump in with EGR and turbo replacement... i think... but nice if i could sort the fuel rail pressure first before committing to turbo
Great video! Very interesting to see the crank sensor wiring damaged by EGR heat.
Yes that’s the second piece of damaged wiring / loom that I’ve found, the other being near the starter motor on my gearbox video. Might be worth you flagging this on one of your videos Scott as you reach a wider audience.
Thank you for posting 👍👍
Lol, I did this a gew months back.
Exhaust manifold to turbo bolts keep coming undone leading to further turbo underboosts.
Considering putting some nuts and threadlock on them
Oh that’s a worry. I did toy with the idea of putting some thread lock on but as the originals were so tight I decided against it. Hope I don’t live to regret that! Did you use new bolts?
@@garyredman642retightened and they came loose a few days later.
Need to get some new bolts I guess.
Can you access the heads of the bolts from the top behind the scuttle panel?
@@HaggisMuncher-y2u sadly I don’t think you can get the bolts out without removing the EGR valve and cooler. You could probably get a spanner in under the cooler to undo them, but I don’t think there would be enough room to withdraw the bolts.
Been there done it. Its actually easier for access if you drop the sub-frame and suspension off out of the way. Even better, drop the engine on the floor and swap the turbo out.
have you got any torque settings please Gary - cheers pal .......brilliant vid its got me going to do this now thanks so much
Great help gary very helpful I owe you a pint , Iv got mine out now the rebuild
Brilliant video Gary... Between this and the EGR video - they are gold... The 'yap yap yap' noise you play at the end is one of the faults i have along with a low fuel rail pressure which i have been chasing to no avail. Car conks out on idle and when driving. Im about to jump in with EGR and turbo replacement... i think... but nice if i could sort the fuel rail pressure first before committing to turbo
Thanks for the positive comments Andy, and I’m glad the videos are of help to you 😊
Thanks for putting this up. what milage has your car done please
145,000
Do you have the part numbers for the gaskets and bolts please
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