4 | Bricklaying walls | Build a pool yourself | English version
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2024
- The bricklaying of the walls of the pool is displayed in this video. It took me from November 2019 till March 2020 to finish this part of the diy concrete pool project. Because it largely took place in winter, I was highly dependent on the weather. Below 5 degrees Celsius, bricklaying is not recommended. In addition, I did not feel like bricklaying bricks for whole days in a row. That way I kept the fun. I also wanted to do the bricklaying very precise, to prevent possible leaks later on. Of all the sub-projects for building my swimming pool, this was the longest sub-project. I tried to mix 1 or 2 tubs of masonry mortar daily and then use it to brick a number of concrete blocks until the masonry mortar had run out. This usually amounted to a maximum of 12 bricked concrete blocks a day. I used steel reinforcement strips (Murfor) in the horizontal joints.
For the complete build of my swimming pool, see the playlist with all videos;
• Build a pool yourself ...
Or see the full version video with subtitles, a lot of languages are available;
• Build your own swimmin...
Or visit my channel if you like;
/ martinvledder
I ordered the concrete blocks with which I bricked the walls at NuBouwen.nl, 1/5 of my order was for the corner concrete blocks, here are two links;
• Betonblok 29x20x19 | B...
www.bouwmaterialenkopen.com/c... blocks-29x20x19cm.html
To strengthen the walls even more I poured stabilized sand behind them. I made the stabilized sand myself by mixing 1 part cement with 5 parts sand. This then becomes a rock-hard layer that not only provides extra reinforcement of the walls, but also serves to support the edge tiles.
The top of the pool will be above ground level, which is better from a practical point of view than it would be level with ground level. Why? The top of the swimming pool of our previous house was level with ground level, as a result, dirt and leaves were blowing into the pool much more easily, but also hedgehogs and mice etc. sometimes accidentally entered the pool at night ....... ! So through these experiences I knew it was better to go for a raised edge this time. That meant that I had to brick 6 layers of concrete blocks, because the depth was 1 meter and a concrete block is 20 cm high (including a 1 cm joint). 6 x 20 cm is 1.20 meters high. In reality, the edge would be a little higher because I made the first joint 2 cm high and there were also edge tiles planned on the edge. In any case, the top of the top (sixth) layer of concrete blocks would come 21 cm above ground level.
#martinvledderbuildapool
How to build a concrete block pool, or cinder block pool, yourself? Watch this video. This diy concrete block pool video will show you how to do it.
To find my videos you might also use the search words;
Build a pool yourself
Build an inground pool yourself
Build a swimming pool yourself
Building a swimming pool yourself
Can you build a pool yourself?
How to build a concrete pool yourself
How to build a swimming pool
How to build your swimming pool step by step
How to build your own swimming pool
How to build your swimming pool
How to build your own pool
DIY swimming pool
Cheap swimming pool construction
00:00 Intro
00:10 Planning walls
00:57 Concrete blocks delivered
01:19 Set up tent
01:49 In the tent
02:31 Highlight layers
02:46 First layer
03:33 Second layer
04:23 Third layer
04:47 Fourth layer
06:29 Wind and hail showers
07:33 Stabsand behind the wall
09:29 Fifth layer
10:07 Storm Ciara
11:22 Continue with fifth layer
11:59 Storm Dennis
12:39 Tent destroyed
13:47 Continue with fifth layer
14:11 Sixth, last, layer
15:31 Masonry ready
15:41 Materials used
15:55 End screens - Хобби
I love the tent idea working during winter such great work as well!
Thank you.😊
Solid work. I built on in a similar fashion but mine is half in ground, half above ground. Only about four feet deep. 8' X 12'. It is based on a hole that was left when we lost a big oak tree in a hurricane. I applied a fiberglass reenforced stucco to the block inside, and out before back filling. The above ground portion is covered in limestone. The inside of the pool is coated with white swimming pool epoxy. Simple above ground sand filter system that I plumbed underground to an enclosure about ten feet from the pool. No drain. I use a sump pump if draining is needed. Original build was just under $2,000.00. It's coming on ten years old with very few issues.
Thanks for your reaction and story. Good work.
@@MartinVledder We live in deep South Texas and it is a blessing to have this to jump in after doing yard work.
@@robertpalmer3166 That's exactly what I love to do too.
How long did you let the cement base "cure" before starting to build the walls?
@@vnodinenodine7801 Probably a lot longer than needed. I just worked on it when I had time. I'd give it the better part of a week though.
Seems like you have the perfect climate for a swimming pool.
Yes, I believe so too.
Nice job, especially you finished this before Pandemic.
Thank you and also thanks for subscribing.
Partly correct about the pandemic. The first measures were taken in the Netherlands in March 2020. I was still building the walls at the time. Luckily I was still able to get materials from the local hardware store. From then on, I also often had materials delivered whose delivery time became longer and longer.
I love your style of working, seems more fun and more patiently precise
Thank you. It was fun indeed.
Hi Martin great job we are in the process of building a block pool and my husband wants to know how did you do the curve / mortar at the first row of blocks on the concrete on the inside of the pool ? It looks like a curve of mortar ? Or did you add something else ? Like a metal profile just asking basically how is the curve held in thanks Deb
Hi Deb, I put in the first layer of cement without using metal or anything like that. I put the first layer of mortar on the concrete floor and kept a joint thickness of 2 cm instead of the 1 cm I used for the layers above. Due to this thickness it was not possible, at that time, to obtain a perpendicular joint, but this joint kept sagging a bit. I just left it that way. Only after I had laid the last top layer (months later) did I grind away the curvature of the bottom joint with a chisel so that it became a bit straighter. That looked a bit neater than an irregular curved joint. Regards, Martin
Heeft u het wapeningstaal alleen horizontaal gebruikt? Ik zie vaker bij bouw met blokken dat we ook metalen staven gebruikt worden verticaal l.
Ik heb het wapeningstaal inderdaad alleen horizontaal toegepast. Ik zie ook dat er vaak verticale wapening wordt toegepast. Dat zijn dan vaak wel diepere en grotere zwembaden. Ik heb een relatief klein zwembad en niet zo diep, de benodigde sterkte is volgens mij dan minder en bovendien heb ik ook zo'n 10 cm dikke muur van gestabiliseerd zand toegepast. Maar ik moet eerlijk zeggen dat ik geen expert ben op dit gebied. Het zwembad bij mijn vorige huis had helemaal geen wapening in de muren en dat heeft nooit tot problemen geleid. Dat zwembad, een ovaal stalen ingegraven zwembad met liner, was door een aannemer gemaakt en had alleen geschoorde steunmuren aan de rechte zijden en gestabiliseerd zand achter de rondingen. Ik heb het een beetje daarvan afgekeken.
Ik zie dat u een liner skimmer hebt gemonteerd, heeft u dat makkelijk kunnen metselen en stucen gezien het feit dat aan de zijkanten uitsteekt om liner te bevestigen?
Ik ben benieuwd
De skimmer is idd geschikt voor zwembaden met een liner maar ook zonder liner kan deze skimmer gebruikt worden. Als je geen liner toepast, gebruik je gewoon de onderdelen niet die je nodig hebt voor de liner. Ik heb van tevoren gemeten hoeveel ruimte de sierflens, die aan de voorkant zit, inneemt naar de muur toe. Zo wist ik tot hoever ik de skimmer in de muur moest inmetselen, en ik hield daarbij ook nog rekening met de dikte van de stuclaag van 1 cm. Het inmetselen was geen enkel probleem. Op het punt waar de stuclaag de skimmer raakt heb ik ook nog speciale zwembadkit aangebracht.
Helder, en bedankt voor uitleg
It wasn't necessary to apply a liner or waterproofing substance to the OUTSIDE of the walls?
Hi Brian, the groundwater level does not rise above the floor, so the walls remain dry. If the groundwater level occasionally rises, for example during prolonged rain, I assume that the 35 cm thick walls will stop the water sufficiently and that the moisture absorption of the concrete will be too short to have a negative effect on the walls. I don't believe that the moisture will go all the way through the wall and come out the other side. But, I'm no expert in this area. Perhaps, I hope not, my estimation turns out to be wrong. Fortunately it is going well so far.
Hi Martin
What blocks did you use and do you have the spec and when you purchased them.
Cheers
Hi, I used Concrete blocks BIA-19/20. BIA stands for "Beton Industrie Arts". That is the name of the manufacturer In The Netherlands. A block is 29 cm long, 20 cm wide and 19 cm high. I ordered them on October the 22nd 2019. See the advertisement text and extended specs below, or use the following link;
www.bouwmaterialenkopen.com/betonblokken-29x20x19cm.html
Description
These concrete blocks (29x20x19cm) are a good choice for many ground, outdoor and indoor applications. The concrete blocks can be ordered online per 15 pieces. They can be processed immediately upon receipt. Cement can be used for this. To make sure you have enough concrete blocks for your job, we advise you to order 5% extra.
These concrete blocks are suitable for various types of walls, such as foundation walls, cavity walls, solid walls and chimneys. In addition, concrete blocks are extremely suitable for complete extensions, garages and borders. But concrete blocks are also a good choice for a weather-resistant shed, tight garden partitions and strong planters. Furthermore, this size of concrete blocks is suitable for swimming pools. This is because the concrete blocks must be at least 20 centimeters wide. Check with your structural engineer whether the blocks are suitable for your construction.
Easy to handle
Due to the good grip, these concrete blocks are easy to handle and ideal to work with.
High carrying capacity
Due to the high load-bearing capacity, concrete blocks are suitable for both load-bearing and non-load-bearing walls. This makes them a good option for solid partition walls in residential construction.
Sound dampening
The blocks offer extremely sound damping values. They are therefore particularly suitable as solid partition walls with the best possible sound insulation. This sound-absorbing value can also be an advantage for a shed or garage.
Excellent insulation
Concrete blocks offer excellent insulation values. By choosing these concrete blocks you ensure a pleasant living climate.
Fireproof
These blocks have excellent fire-resistant properties, because only mineral components with a high resistance are used.
Ecologically and building biologically responsible
These concrete blocks are ecologically produced and meet the most recent building construction requirements. Due to the use of natural raw materials and an energy-saving production process, the blocks are ecologically and biologically responsible.
Extended specifications
LxWxH in cm 29x20x19
Price per piece incl. VAT €2.15
Number of pieces per m2 16
Price per m2 € 34.40
Delivery Per layer, without pallets
Quality 1st choice
Weight per block 18.5 kg
Order unit per 15 pieces
Number of kg cement per m2 15
Number of kg of sand per m2 45
Number of kg mortar (ready-to-use) per m2 63
Number of kg of plaster per m2 1.6
Weight per order unit 277.5 kg (per 15 pieces)
Compressive strength in N/mm2 15
Take away option Yes
i didnt see it clearly in the video, did you lay the steel reinforcement horisontally between the layers?
Hi Eduan,
That is correct.
Did you have to install a drain for the floor? If not, why did you not need one?
HI, a drain in the floor is not really necessary. It's easy to have. But it costs much more, and I already did not have the opportunity to drain water to the sewage system. Instead, I empty the pool with a submersible pump and discharge the water through a hose into the street. In my city, rainwater, from the roofs, is also drained down the street. This is to prevent the sewer from becoming overloaded and to retain the water in the ground for longer, so that nature suffers less from droughts.
Do you think the mortar between bricks was needed honestly? you plastered the outside and painted it...Just curious I want to build a pool as well.
Hi Jeremy,
It's always good to wonder if a particular building step is necessary, but bricklaying the walls is a must. Without cement between the bricks, a wall collapses like a house of cards when pressure is applied. Plaster and paint will never give the 4 walls the strength which is necessary to withstand the force of 18.5 m³ of water they enclose. In addition, the walls must also be able to withstand the pressure of soil and rising groundwater on the outside. Plaster gives the walls a smooth surface so that you can safely swim in it and the rubber paint ensures watertightness of the walls on the inside and of course the final color.
@@MartinVledder appreciate it...I'm not an expert by any means but I'm pretty hand hope to be swimming by end of July. Thanks.. actually watching your videos atm
@@jeremymtz360 I wish you a lot of strength and fun building your own swimming pool. The result will give you a lot of satisfaction.
Do you have the link to the skimmer of where you bought it from?
Hi. Wally, here is the link to the website where I ordered the skimmer Zwembad.eu. See the following link for all the specifions of the skimmer. Under the Tab "Technische Fiche" you will find all the sizes.
www.zwembad.eu/brede-mond-skimmers/3915-882-skimmer-brede-mond#/9461-versie-skimmer_15l_wit
How deep can the pool be with block walls? Do you recommend using filled block and rebar in it for strength?
Hi, I am not an expert in this field. I just did what others have done. My pool belongs to the smaller type. I don't know how deep you can go without vertical reinforcement. I do think that if you make a pool bigger and deeper, the walls should also have better reinforcement.
Great work! How wide did you make the steps?
Thank you, 1 block of concrete is 20 cm thick, 29 cm long and 19 cm high. This means that the step, including a joint of 1 cm per block, is approximately 63 cm wide.
I must try this when i get a house! how did you dig the hole? hiring a digger could be pricey.
Hi, thank you for your reaction.
Please, see my other videos "Part 2 Dig the hole" and "Part 9 The Cost" to get the answers.
No reinforced iron bars? How is it going so far?
Hi, I used metal strips between the layers as vertical reinforcement and a wall of stabilized sand behind the concrete wall for vertical and horizontal reinforcement. That should be enough. So far no issues arised. The walls are, after two years, still standing.
Did u use a liner?
Hi Nicky,
No, I did not use a liner. I used rubber paint. You can see that in video 6.
Is there no bottom drain?
Hi Joshua,
Indeed there is no bottom drain.
@@MartinVledder I see the skimmer, for cleaning. How do you drain it? And is there no pool equipment either? I suppose that’s a pretty easy plumbing add, huh?
@Joshua Seigel Please see video 5 "Technical installation" for all equipement and plumbing. I drain the pool only before winter and I use a submersible pump then. Please see videos 7 and 11 how I drain the pool. There are 13 videos which, I believe, displays everything. Or see the video "Build your own swimming pool | Videos 1-10 | English version" to see the complete build of my pool. Thanks for your reaction and viewing Joshua. It is much appreciated.
Aufnahme hochkant?
Ich verstehe diese Frage nicht, können Sie diese Frage anders formulieren?
@@MartinVledder schade das die Aufnahme nicht in 16:9 Format erstellt wurde
@@Kai90xy Das ist richtig.
What was total cost ?
Hi jes iba, in part 9 "The costs" you can see in detail all the partial costs in addition to the total costs. Click on the following link if you want to watch this video . ruclips.net/video/ec_e2vW_iAQ/видео.html
Why not make the pool deeper
Hi David,
That is due to the level of groundwater. In this part of the Netherlands where I live, the groundwater was reached after digging 1.15 meters. The groundwater level can vary. When it has rained a lot, the groundwater rises. It drops again when the pumping stations of the polder, pump the water to a lower level. It is not impossible to dig deeper and then start building, but that requires a lot of precautions and becomes quite expensive.
That was a waste of 16 minutes. Didn't even see it finished
Hi Damien, I'm sorry you see it that way. You just viewed one of my 13 videos. When you go to my channel you will see all the seperate videos. Or you could watch the video where I have put all the seperate videos together. Here is the link ruclips.net/video/AFYuiyXsPRY/видео.html
You will see for sure the finished state of my pool.