You might find that the know will pull up into the hole in the neoprene, spreading the neoprene and jamming the pot in place where the only way to undo it will be breaking the lid. Replacing the lid is a 'bit of a pain' Not sure the neoprene adds much. If you are worried about chafe, maybe a piece of HDPE with a hole *just* big enough (or even a 'top-hat bush up through the FR4 & deck with an upstand to stop the water on deck ... just thinking out loud here)
We are looking forward to finding out 😁 We have used neoprene on the stretching rig at home. Compared to the original test stretches of the chainplate we can see fewer really squashed looking sections of the knot. The details of the pots, lids etc are really open to change according to what we learn.
Nice work. I would have gone straight to a sealant/ adhesive, forget the catch pot. Do like the cover, which if sealed at top should keep it all dry. I wonder if a simple stopper knot, or similar would be enough? Save a lot of work, just one splice. I believe you can buy Dynema cover webbing tube, that would protect the deck joint very well. That said, once set up, there should not be any movement to create wear. At least you can monitor the condition, unlike a hidden crack in stainless Is it Dynema for the shroud?
Thanks. We were concerned about water wicking down the inner fibres where it might be difficult to get sealant to penetrate. We like the soft shackle approach a) there are online tests to breaking b) the doubling makes it easier to have a loop for the low friction ring closer to the deck without compromising the splice bury c) the chainplate is stronger than the shroud made from the same dyneema d) the knot is bigger and can't slip so more secure. Monitoring the condition where it goes through the deck is another reason for not using sealant. Yup shrouds are the same dyneema.
@@SustainableSailing good logic! I have seen other methods, yours is certainly the most simple. All good…except the hole in the deck! I guess once you are happy, you can encapsulate below with a thin layer of grp, not difficult to cut away if replacement required.
This is extremely interesting. I need to install an inner forestay so I'll be watching how this works with great interest, especially how much water collects in those cups. I like your backing plates, they look really solid. I might copy that. There may be a fair bit of room for experimentation on the above deck bits to reduce water coming in. Before I saw the end of the vid I was going to suggest building a small section above the deck where the chainplate goes through but you beat me to it! One question; wouldn't there be a risk that the knot on the end of the dyneema pul up and crumple, distort or crack the lid of the plastic jar due to the tension of the shroud?
Our inner forestay will basically use the same technique. We are strengthening the part bulkhead at the aft end of the original anchor deck locker, then we will have a nice beam spanning the width of the deck that the backing plate will attach to. As the knot will be in the old anchor locker we don't need to worry about water ingress on that one. Agree about experimenting with the above deck protection. We hope that the sunbrella sleeve (that be tight around the narrower section of the mushroom and extend to above the low friction ring at the bottom of the shroud) will help protect from UV, chafe and also stop most of the water. We will also look at using epoxy or Sikaflex to waterproof the through deck area (but suspect that they won't fully stop water wicking down the inside of the dyneema. Hopefully, the container lids will not crack as they will be glued very flat and tight to the backing plate, the neoprene should add protection. If not we could cut away more of the lid so there is just the screw thread lip and seal that with sikaflex from the outside. Then the knot won't touch it at all.
@@SustainableSailing I've been mulling about this stuff for a while trying to work out how to do my inner forestay so of course I'm excited to see how you are going about it. Thanks.
Interesting, are you OK with the deck carrying all that load? Our boat has the chainplates bolted to a large fiberglass bulkhead attached with 5 x 1/2" bolts with the hull taking the load.
Basically this is a very beefed up version of the original. For everything apart from the main mast cap shrouds there was just a bronze eye bolt with two rectangular bits of stainless steel (approx 60mm x 30mm) as backing plates. The cap shrouds had a length of stainless bolted to a bulkhead with the top bent over to a right angle which the chainplate bolt went through. Our huge backing plates fully cover the hull deck joint and are bedded onto thickened epoxy for a very even spread of the load. We are adding knees for the main mast cap shrouds. Rival rigs are not that big and this had lasted 45 years with deck cracks in only one place (where the two stainless backing plates had become misaligned and then bent), we are confident this is a lot stronger than it was.
Apologies, we felt we needed something other than silence through all the sped up bits. We are having a few problems with our DJI mikes at the moment which I'm finding a bit frustrating when it comes to levels and clarity. I thought I had got the music quiet enough.
![Kumamoto Masters Japan 2024 | Gregoria Mariska Tunjung (INA) [5] vs. Akane Yamaguchi (JPN) [2] | F](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EIjZybhsWqA/mqdefault.jpg)
Looks great guys! keep up the good work!
great video!!....
You guys should have 100,000 subscribers you are so inventive
At the current rate maybe in 100 years 🤣
Genius water catch, your ideas are always fascinating
We bought the plastic containers from www.ampulla.co.uk/ took a while to find a supplier of smallish containers with wide enough lids.
You might find that the know will pull up into the hole in the neoprene, spreading the neoprene and jamming the pot in place where the only way to undo it will be breaking the lid. Replacing the lid is a 'bit of a pain'
Not sure the neoprene adds much. If you are worried about chafe, maybe a piece of HDPE with a hole *just* big enough (or even a 'top-hat bush up through the FR4 & deck with an upstand to stop the water on deck ... just thinking out loud here)
We are looking forward to finding out 😁
We have used neoprene on the stretching rig at home. Compared to the original test stretches of the chainplate we can see fewer really squashed looking sections of the knot.
The details of the pots, lids etc are really open to change according to what we learn.
Nice work.
I would have gone straight to a sealant/ adhesive, forget the catch pot.
Do like the cover, which if sealed at top should keep it all dry.
I wonder if a simple stopper knot, or similar would be enough? Save a lot of work, just one splice.
I believe you can buy Dynema cover webbing tube, that would protect the deck joint very well. That said, once set up, there should not be any movement to create wear. At least you can monitor the condition, unlike a hidden crack in stainless
Is it Dynema for the shroud?
Thanks.
We were concerned about water wicking down the inner fibres where it might be difficult to get sealant to penetrate.
We like the soft shackle approach a) there are online tests to breaking b) the doubling makes it easier to have a loop for the low friction ring closer to the deck without compromising the splice bury c) the chainplate is stronger than the shroud made from the same dyneema d) the knot is bigger and can't slip so more secure.
Monitoring the condition where it goes through the deck is another reason for not using sealant.
Yup shrouds are the same dyneema.
@@SustainableSailing good logic!
I have seen other methods, yours is certainly the most simple.
All good…except the hole in the deck! I guess once you are happy, you can encapsulate below with a thin layer of grp, not difficult to cut away if replacement required.
This is extremely interesting. I need to install an inner forestay so I'll be watching how this works with great interest, especially how much water collects in those cups. I like your backing plates, they look really solid. I might copy that. There may be a fair bit of room for experimentation on the above deck bits to reduce water coming in. Before I saw the end of the vid I was going to suggest building a small section above the deck where the chainplate goes through but you beat me to it! One question; wouldn't there be a risk that the knot on the end of the dyneema pul up and crumple, distort or crack the lid of the plastic jar due to the tension of the shroud?
Our inner forestay will basically use the same technique. We are strengthening the part bulkhead at the aft end of the original anchor deck locker, then we will have a nice beam spanning the width of the deck that the backing plate will attach to. As the knot will be in the old anchor locker we don't need to worry about water ingress on that one.
Agree about experimenting with the above deck protection. We hope that the sunbrella sleeve (that be tight around the narrower section of the mushroom and extend to above the low friction ring at the bottom of the shroud) will help protect from UV, chafe and also stop most of the water. We will also look at using epoxy or Sikaflex to waterproof the through deck area (but suspect that they won't fully stop water wicking down the inside of the dyneema.
Hopefully, the container lids will not crack as they will be glued very flat and tight to the backing plate, the neoprene should add protection. If not we could cut away more of the lid so there is just the screw thread lip and seal that with sikaflex from the outside. Then the knot won't touch it at all.
@@SustainableSailing I've been mulling about this stuff for a while trying to work out how to do my inner forestay so of course I'm excited to see how you are going about it. Thanks.
L I K E 👍👍👍👍👍❣ 💯❣💯 ❣🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩
It's just about possible that this is an OTT comment trying to harvest clicks! ;-)
Interesting, are you OK with the deck carrying all that load? Our boat has the chainplates bolted to a large fiberglass bulkhead attached with 5 x 1/2" bolts with the hull taking the load.
Basically this is a very beefed up version of the original. For everything apart from the main mast cap shrouds there was just a bronze eye bolt with two rectangular bits of stainless steel (approx 60mm x 30mm) as backing plates. The cap shrouds had a length of stainless bolted to a bulkhead with the top bent over to a right angle which the chainplate bolt went through.
Our huge backing plates fully cover the hull deck joint and are bedded onto thickened epoxy for a very even spread of the load.
We are adding knees for the main mast cap shrouds.
Rival rigs are not that big and this had lasted 45 years with deck cracks in only one place (where the two stainless backing plates had become misaligned and then bent), we are confident this is a lot stronger than it was.
Great -except for the annoying background music!
Apologies, we felt we needed something other than silence through all the sped up bits.
We are having a few problems with our DJI mikes at the moment which I'm finding a bit frustrating when it comes to levels and clarity. I thought I had got the music quiet enough.
Music ok…just too loud
No music in the latest video.
Sound is our most troublesome task 😞