Polaris Robotic Pool Cleaner: Error Code 10 FIXED (Long Version/Full Details)
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Roger the Robot wouldn't work in 2023. We've has error 10 before and it was usually an easy fix (clean the connector contacts), but not this time. Needed full surgery, and significant work on the cable to get it done.
I filmed a shorter summary version which should be watched first:
• Polaris Robotic Pool C...
This one has all the nitty gritty and the entire teary tale, that ended in success!!!!
Link to the pins: www.digikey.ca...
A big thanks for going through all the diags to figure out the solution. As you recommended, I cut out the detangler (agreed worthless). I reconnected with a product from Amazon: “2Pcs IP68 Waterproof Electrical Junction Box Outdoor Underground Wire Connector Junction Boxes for 2 or 3 Pin Cables Range for 3-10MM, 6-11MM, Coupler for 0.5-2.5MM” with a bit of dialectic grease for extra. Just need to get your wire lengths fairly right to avoid too much in the junction box/tube. Up and running! This is day 2 and still going strong. Thanks again!
Hey Jason thanks so much for the comment and appreciate you pointing out that Amazon product. Just looked it up ... seems like it would be ideal! Great to hear you are back up and running!!! Cheers.
Do you have link for wire connection
Thank for posting this video and saving me a pile of money for a new cable! The swivel unit on mine had an internal short due to water incursion. After eliminating the swivel unit it took me a few attempts to get a solid connection between the cable and the motor. Here are a few tips based on my experience.
1. Spend the ~$20 on a molex crimper tool if you don't already have one. Makes the job a lot easier and the result will be much better than trying to use needle nose pliers
2. Before putting the new pins in the connector housing, check the fit between the male and female pins. If it's loose, use needle nose pliers to carefully tighten up the female pin until you get a snug fit
3. Bench test the motor before reassembling the robot and putting it back in the pool
4. Buy plenty of extra pins to practice with
Thanks so much for the comment ... fantastic points! Which Molex crimper did you buy? I think I'll add that as a link in the description as it's a great tip and I wish I'd thought of that. Crimping was definitely a pain in the butt!!
Excellent video and helped me fix my 9550. I found the same issue but all three wires had cracks in them where it bends as enters the robot. Thanks for doing this... you saved me big $$$$ from having to buy a new cable or robot. Those pins are not easy to work with...as others have said buy a 20$ crimper and save some frustration.
Thanks so much for the comment! Love these stories of folks saving $$ and getting back up and running! Fantastic!
I followed this exactly and it solved my problem. Only difference is I soldered the wires instead of replacing the pins. thank you for the detailed video!
So glad it helped! Thanks so much for the note!!
Just finished repairing mine. Your video helped tremendously! I just cut the detengler thingy, reused the connector pins (don’t need to order new one, just push them out, as you showed, then solder on top and push them back in). Worked great. Thanks for taking the time to show what you did.
Awesome to hear! Thanks so much for the note! Glad it worked out!
We were done with error 10 after many fixes. Last month, my better half took the unit apart and cut off the swivel and a good foot of cable on each side, and since then, no more error 10, and it works marvelously! Best decision we made.
Great to hear! Thanks for the note!
In my experience, the swivel looks good but ain't worth a damn. The line always ends up twisted together. I don't believe it actually ever swivels in the water.
how did yall keep in water tight and the connection?
Random crao turns out to be not so random. I have the same vac. My issue was that it would not power on. I took apart the white power supply, looked fine. Then I took the de-tangler apart and found that one of the contact discs was a little dirty. Scotch Brite cleaning and reassemble. Works, for now. Hate to spend 1300 for a new one.
Thanks for the note! Cheers!
My unit displayed an error 10. After taking my Polaris 9650iq apart I determined that the cable was in good condition. I took the motor compartment apart and found that inside the motor compartment there was a small circuit board which showed signs of corrosion. I ordered a replacement circuit board on line . After attaching the new board I tested my robot and I no longer had error 10. It has been working flawlessly since replacement. Lesson learned was to not leave the robot in the pool 24/7. I now remove it from the pool between cleanings.
Tks for sharing that. If you don't mind me asking, where did you order the circuit board from and how much was it??
@@fixingrandomcrap where did you order the circuit board from, or please share the part number.
Hi @Monica ... I didn't do the circuit board bit it seems like chuckh above did.
I had the same issue and eliminated cables.corrosion on the pcb after 3 years of continuous immersion! Cleaned the pcb with methylated spirits. Applied a lacquer coat. Noted main leak was around propeller motor. Replaced o rings and added extra silastic. Replaced silica gel bags. Added silicon to the outer seal on the motor case. Test run drive gave error 8. Look up suggested not in water. Tested in water .. Fixed. Have a new lease of life.
where did you find circuit board..been looking for two years now
Thank you so much!! Same issue, err10/swivel
It save my pool season. I salvage a Pc Molex pin for the connector.
In europe this robot is under the brand Zodiac vortex
Greetings from france
Merci beaucoup pour la commentarie! So glad it helped!
Great stuff here. This little vid saved me $350 for a replacement cable. Many thanks!
So great to hear!! Exactly what I was hoping this video would do!! Appreciate the note!!
I'm joining the chorus of thank yous. I followed all of your advice and my robot is back on duty. I feel like a superhero. That's a like and follow from me...what else needs fixin?!
Love getting these notes! Makes my day! Thanks for taking the time to comment!
You did a really good video! I changed out the power module because I wasn’t getting any display and that worked for that. But then I started getting the same error code so I’m troubleshooting from the module to the vacuum just like you and will probably wind up with the same result. But it’s better than ditching an $1100.03 year-old Polaris. There are several design flaws in this product. I hope they listen to their customers complaints and fix these problems. Again, great job!
Thanks so much for the note! Appreciate it! Let us know how it goes!
Great video!!! Thank you !!!!
I have a P945 with an eroor 10,the connection on the unit side ( black connector) was broken due to corrosion. About to order the connectors now . Wish me luck
Good luck! Thanks for the note. Let us know how it goes!!
I had an Error 10 that came on slowly then became permanent, after watching your video I tested continuity and found two wires shorted. Then I got the courage to split open my cord near the body and found a crimp spot near where it entered the main housing and sure enough all three wires were frayed and touching. I’m ordering the pins and shortening my cable (instead of ordering an new one for $400). Thanks for posting!
Absolutely love getting notes like this ... keep us posted on how it works!!!!
@@fixingrandomcrap thanks will do.
Reminder to readers - when testing continuity of wires, test end to end - should read zero Ohms (connected). But also test that all three conductors are isolated. IOW on one end, test black pin to red pin - it should read OL (open loop). Then test black to brown, then brown to red. Do it from both ends. If any are connected, you have a short. I found my short was definitely in the cable (but I had already cracked open my motor housing so we will see how that turns out).
Waiting on my connectors later this week
Brilliant video, thanks very much. Just fixed mine after watching your work, and as with yours the cable had deteriorated and the wires become exposed / shorted inside just before the black connector clip that joins the cable to the robot.
Thanks so much for the comment!! Fantastic to hear that you were able to fix it!!
Thanks for the detailed instructions - after changing a bad motor, I was left with the bad cord problem. Removed the section of cable that runs through the robot - shortened the cable and installed new pins as per your video. I was very happy that it kept working after many previous error 10’s.
Fantastic news! Thanks for the note (and for subscribing!!). Much appreciated!
Great video, very helpful. My pool cleaner was throwing "Er 10", and thanks to your detailed approach I traced the problem (I think) to a corroded electrical connection at the motor/propeller end - water had made its way into the connection and corroded the pins. Having a salt-water pool probably accelerates the corrosion. Once I (hopefully) source pins or the connector, I'll also remove a couple of feet of the main cord before redoing the connection.
Thanks so much for the note. Glad it helped. Let us know how it turns out!!
I have the exact same issue, robot looks the same but it's called Zodiac Vortex 🙂
Haven't taken it apart yet, I'm debugging at the moment and realized that it works fine when I select "floor cleaning only". As soon as I add the walls it gives me the error 10. I'm not as electronics-savvy as you seem to be so I'm a little scared of opening up that robot. But before I shell out another €1000+ for a new robot I think I need to give this a try.
EDIT: thanks for the comprehensive video, especially the taking-apart-timelapse. Good to see how this thing is assembled.
Thanks so much for the note! That's interesting only getting the error on the wall mode. To be honest I was exactly where you were, not sure I wanted to open it but I was so frustrated with it I was going to throw it out anyway so I said what the heck! Good luck! Let us know how it goes!
@@fixingrandomcrap Thanks, man. Unfortunately, getting rid of the corrosion at the 4-pin-plug did not solve my issue and neither did the floor-only setting. I guess it just ran longer because it doesn't twist the cable as much. But then again, sometimes the error comes on without any kinks in the cable so maybe it's an issue with another part of the electronics. I'm going to open that hing up on the weekend and dive in. All the best!
@@DanielMores let us know how it goes!! Does your model have the detangler cylinder as well? That could be the other trouble spot.
@@fixingrandomcrap so the update 🙂: I opened up the robot and found out that the plug connecting to the motor was totally corroded. Managed to find proper crimp-things and replaced those, chucked it back in the water and voilá ... same error. Then I looked at the detangler. It was running kind of rough and I thought it wasn't untangling very well. Opened it up (easy part) and found some water inside. Trying to open up the hard part resulted in massacred threads so I decided to just do what you did and remove the detangler alltogether. Works fine, but it tangles a lot more, now. Not sure if it's bugging me enough to buy a €300 cable. But I'm pleased with the repair and saving a lot of money thanks to your video!
Hey great stuff! Thanks for the update! Re the tangling, I do find that I need to take a bit of extra care to make sure I am straightening the cable before throwing the robot in the pool. If it's already twisted at all (not necessarily in loops but even any twist in the cable ... if that makes sense), it will start to tangle a bit but if I straighten first it can generally get through a full cycle without tangling much.
Awesome man! Thanks for posting, appreciate it big time
Thanks for the note! Super glad it helped!!
Thank you again… broken cable right on that point you found 👍
Great stuff! Glad the video helped! Thanks so much for the note!
I have had similar issues a few years back (I have a Zodiac one, just another name). Same issue, that I could not find the right connector. I cut and soldered the wire inside the connector, it is still working. But found out recently that the original connector can be ordered, at least in Europe (I am in NL). If interested this is the partnumber R0828000 W (Prise côté bloc moteur ZODIAC Vortex 3-4WD et 4-4WD). It also has an additional flexible item at the elbow to relief the pressure on the cable there.
Oh wow super cool. Thanks so much for sharing. Found that part online just now based on the # you shared. That's great info!
Thank you for the great and timely video! It gave me the knowledge and confidence I needed to fix mine. I used the multimeter to determine that the swivel/detanlger was the only problem so I just deleted it. Interestingly mine used a 3 conductor headphone plug (like the phones used to have), but that design didn't seem so great either as it was the weakest link. So I cut the wires on both sides of the detangler, soldered them together, electrical taped and shrink wrapped in 5 layers so it seems like it will hold up to being under water. That also saved me having to crimp a new end connector. We'll see how long it lasts but it's working perfectly now. Thank you for posting your very informative video, Craig. Liked and subscribed. Cheers!
Found my swivel is also bad using the phone plug. Seems very poor design
@@chrisgarcia9335 I wish I had assumed it was bad before I took the sealed motor compartment apart too. I'm debugging other errors now and hopefully it's not due to water getting in there... I'd be so upset if I caused more problems... If you haven't opened yours yet maybe try cutting out the swivel and testing before you do. It seems like the likely culprit and it'd be a shame to lose the seal if it has nothing to do with your issues. I hope I didn't shoot myself in the foot.
@@georgevaccaro9379 I assumed my motor was good since I just replaced it two months ago. Also pissed my cord went bad after replacing it last year.
Thanks so much for the note George!! Let us know how it holds up!! Awesome news!
Thanks for posting, very helpful! I have noticed what I believe to be a short between the black and the brown/grey pin - i think from your ohm readings that is NOT the way it is supposed to be?
I'm presently going to try a) take apart the spinner per the other fella's video
b) if that doesn't reveal the issue, i'm wagering the problem is like yours with cracked insulation near the entry to the robot.
thanks for any tips!
Sorry slow reply ... missed this one somehow! Any news??
Many thanks for the great tips and video, it works for me! It saved a lot of money! 👌🙏
So glad it helped! Thanks so much for the note!!
Excellent! Thank you for posting.
Thanks for the note! Apprecate it!
Love you sir thanks for your video. Least excepted are the most needed..
To get the pins out,
Male/Female 4 Pin Molex Power Connector Pin Remover Computer Wire Extractor Tool for Modding/Wiring/Sleeving (for .062" and 0.093" pins)Male/Female 4 Pin Molex Power Connector Pin Remover Computer Wire Extractor Tool for Modding/Wiring/Sleeving (for .062" and 0.093" pins) About $15.
So I’m going through the same, after only two seasons of flawless operation. After watching your video I realized that the slider device is the most fragile. So I get error 10 at the very end of the last season 2022. I find one wire lose in the cable connector at the head side.
After tightening that it worked.
This year first use - error 10.
After some fiddling and researching I concluded the weakest point must be the slider “anti tangle” part.
So today gave it another try: moved the slider back forth to “work in” the sliding contacts inside… and there it is in the pool vacuuming.
Super fragile and disappointing quality for the price. Had I known I would have gone for one of those suction side vacuums not the robot.
Very disappointed.
From observing the wire inside it’s a rigid type which can’t withstand a lot of bending cycles. Why not one of those many strand ultra flexible wires. 50ft spool of a single wire is something around $20cad.
Nobody cares about quality even when they are selling a “premium” product.
Thanks for the comment and sharing your experience... yes it is disappointing to see these expensive items breaking down so easily. At least make the replacement cables more reasonable after you've already paid 1500 - 2000$ for the darn thing!!!
Great Video.... have the exact same issue, had got to the same point you did at the Pool unit socket part.... Shame they don't seem to sell the Pump end plug and the socket Plug bits at the head????? i guess they don't want people to fiddle but here in Australia a replacement cable is close to $300.
Glad it helped!! Yes I wish they sold that too ... would have saved a lot of headaches! Thanks for the note!
I have had two Polaris VRX IQ+ in the past 3 years. Both of them frequent error code 10s at least once a month. I got tired of returning to the pool store once a month.
This is a quick easy fix. The “prongs” inside the plug that connects to the base were indeed green with corrosion. I lightly sanded them and gently scraped them until they were shiny again. I sprayed a little electronics contact cleaner on them for good measure. Cleaner fired right up and error code is no more.
Awesome video man thank you. You did everything I would have to and put in 35 minute 😊video. You saved me hours of farting around with it. I was able to save the pins thanks to the heads up and the drill bit idea worked great. A total of 3 hours from start to swimming👍.😊
Thanks so much for the note! Fantastic to hear you are back in business! This was my exact hope with this video ... save some folks some time and money and keep these robots out of the garbage!!! Fantastic stuff. Tks again for reaching out.
I ran into the same issue and step by stepped it like you have just jot finished jyst yet but wanted to share domething ive noticed. I had a cord off another robotic pool cleaner found the brown middle wire had a break not sure exacyly where yet so i temporarlily eliminated it. I used a stand alone wire and the good coord from other bot which was 2 wire not 3 from the other bot we had and bam still had an error 10. I spliced into the connectors from original coord just at the ends where it plugged into the control head and motor.Then started to notice an issue where cord plugs into the control unit. That I was seeing voltage jump at the 4 pin connector itself. Well, I have a little more diagnostics to go but I wanted to also share this....the piss poor designed cable. The 3 wires are sealed all together in an insulated core...with then a much thicker outer layer but the engineering Einsteins didn't adhere that core to the inner one. Where cord goes to the bot I had water traces all the way up the wire of at least 10 yo 14 feet between the two insulator cores. Well with years of plumbing under my belt when I started at 13 years of age when I dropped a pulp down a well and connected tge wires from pump to pressure switch the connector were cramped and the the heat shrink tubing was heated with a torch and those connectors were permanently sealed with gllue indidevdnd rubber coating tubing outer...ensures no arc out even if the metal butt connector breaks that seal insulator heat shrunk tubing was thicker then the insulated wire itself. These geniuses didn't do that and I've noticed the same thing in other videos. Tgough the repairers didn't there words were wet mine still being wet after bring out of the elements for days...Sad really they just keep producing these things knowing they have sn issue but won't address it
You had mentioned something that you were going to put a link of a guy fixing the detangler. Could you give me that video link, possibly? Thank you.
Need help!! Got the same error, I bought a new cable and tried it on, the error code doesn't go away, I also tried to check if the motor is working, that's fine too, i don't see to understand what else the problem might be, I'm not ready to fetch a lot of $$$ for a new one, my gut says it's something to with the circuit board or the control board itself, does anyone have any other experiences...any suggestions plzzzz
I completely replaced the cord and still code 10 error. Maybe it’s the motor versus the base I guess. Don’t feel competent taking the motor apart. Suggestions?
Oh no ... very sorry to hear. Was it a brand new cable??
Hello watching your video and I have a quick question one of the pins broke off so I would like to just buys pins and put all 4 new ones in, can I buy just pins ? It was also getting an E10 error. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for reaching out. Not sure I totally understand. Which pins? The end that plugs onto the robot itself? Or the control panel?
Hello. I’m stuck at removing the plastic clamp that swivels and goes into the robot. Can’t seem to find anything to show that. Any help would be appreciated! Great video btw!
OK gotcha. Do you have the Robot fully apart? Once those last 4 screws are out and also the handle screws it should just come apart and then that whole cable is loose. Getting the elbow off the cable it requires needle nose pliers a flathead and some patience.
@@fixingrandomcrap I've got it now. Thanks!
Can you share the link to the female pins you needed. I may need to go this route on mine.
www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/molex/0002091117/1784872?s=N4IgTCBcDaIOoFkCMSAMBmAwgFQLQDkAREAXQF8g
Those should be the ones there! I had the image late in the video but thats the link to the part # from my invoice. Let us know how it goes!!!
Fix is holding up after a number of weeks here now! Roger the robot has the pool spotless once again!
Hi, How were you able to remove the pins in the first place? I am struggling to disassemble that part of the hose. Thanks!
From which end? The robot end or the controller end?
Thanks for the response! From the end of the hose that plugs into the controller. I believe your video starts with that part disassembled.
OK gotcha. Yes it's a bit tricky. It twists out. Take a pair of pliers and grab the lip of the connector on the side where the pins are sticking out, then use your other hand to twist the housing and it should start to move. Let me know how it goes!
@@fixingrandomcrap The easiest way to do this is to leave the floating robot cable plugged into the controller. First unscrew the nut on the end of the connector and then unscrew the body of the connector while it's plugged in. I found the hard way if you use the pliers method you may damage the lip of the connector.
Star of the show at 5:40
Lol you're not wrong!!
Junk machine. All that money and the customer has to try and correct issue. NEVER buy Polaris again.
Shrink wrap