I bought the aluminum block off plate with two new screws. And yes my starter spring flew out. Landed on the fly wheel magnet lol. Waited for the new o ring seal to come from Florida, it came and the o ring wouldn't stay in place on my 2000 stx di 1100. So I got me some painters tape out some aluminum colored RTV gasket maker. And I took a pic and put a little bit of silicone down in the stator housing seal groove. Reinstalled the o-ring with painter's tape behind it. Left it. Go for 24 hours and Shazam it was ready to install without issues of the ring falling out.
My question is Why do you want to go to premix? Change your oil lines every 6 years or so and you are good to go. Add a filter in line between your oil pump and oil tank if you don't have one. Use a plastic mesh strainer and not a paper element filter. Most Seadoos still have the original oil lines still on them (20yr old oil lines) and they're still good. I have only seen one oil pump failure in 27 years of PWC repair and it would have failed under warranty if they had ridden it more than just a few times. It was missing the seal retainer from the factory. The reason most 2 cycle engines fail is because of a lean fuel to air mixture usually caused my a dirty carburetor or fuel restriction and/or a leaking crankshaft seal or air leak in the crank case.
@@elmaschinon2699 Nonsense! Carbs getting plugged up is a LOT more common than oil pump failure. Yamaha has the best lube system in that the oil is injected into the carb throat, completely bypassing the internal section of the carb. Problems with premix include: it's messy, you have to carry oil with you when you buy gas, you have to do math at the gas pump, it smokes excessively at idle, some oils don't stay mixed with gasoline.
Hey bud thanks for the video... Did you get the oil injection block off plate or you just remove the oil injection gear in there and use the oil injector to block the opening? I just ordered he kit actually, and came across this video.. How has it been running with the 40-1 ratio? I just want to be safe I read 50-1 somewhere else but I just bought the kawasaki 2 cycle oil and I dont think its synthetic.. That may make a difference? I also read that the stator cover has the 2 cooling ports and lines that need to be somehow cleaned out? New to working on these things any help is greatly appreciated. GREAT VIDEO.
I just removed the little gear key way in there and reassembled everything back like normal. The 40-1 ratio has worked great for me and not having to worry about the oil injection makes it a better ride.
Hey bud thanks for the video .. I'm very new to this type of motor and i just bought 2 of them .. i was wondering what is the point of doing what you showed in the video and what mix are you talking about and how do we put that back in lol sorry for the all questions but i was researching how to change the oil on these things and came across your video .. thanks in advance
This engines are 2 stroke. Meaning they don't take engine oil in he crank case. They come equipped with two tanks. A gas tank and a 2 stroke oil tank. The engine comes with a small pump mounted to the stator cover wich gets driven by the crank shaft. The pump pumps oil into each carburetor to be mixed with fuel and lubricate the internals of the engine. Sometimes those pumps fail. And by the time u notice is usually to late because u probably ruined ur engine by then. The purpose to this mod is that u delete that part of the system and start pre mixing ur fuel so u know for sure ur engine is gating lubricated.
@@javiermontes3777 no man. Not on two strokes. That's why you add oil to the gas. The carb shoots gas and it passes through the crankcase before going into the cylinder and that's how it lubes the crank.
Hi I just bought a 1998 Kawasaki STX 1100 a few weeks ago the previous owner did an oil pump delete and damage the third cylinder the engine is now rebuilt and I'm about to put it back in the jet ski I will now be premixing the oil I was just wondering if you might know if the bottom case gets its own oil I read online somewhere that it doesn't and just gets lubrication from premixed fuel hope someone can clarify this for me thank you
Hey man I've been having a issue with my 2000 kawasaki 1100 zxi where it seems like it runs fine for a while then at some point it just seems like I'll be going then it will bog down and shut of sometimes then I won't be able to get it out of idle without it doing it again I'm pretty sure the carbs were rebuilt by the way
I think it's most likely something to do with your coil packs. I've seen it were coils will run fine until they get a little hot and shut down. Then once they cool down they run again. Good luck.
you did way to much work! just remove the oil pump. They make a plate that goes in place of the oil pump. Then there is no reason to take everything apart. You also mention if your going to go your route to use a punch and hit the bearing out. I think it would be easier if you just removed the C-clip holding the bearing in and just slip the bearing out.
Iv done the block off plate and Iv blocked off the 3 ports at the bottom but do I block off the single port at the top near accelerator cable? Or continue to run from the tee piece in the fuel line before the fuel filter??
When I did my jetskis I just plugged the 3 ports on the carbs and took the key way out of the oil pump. Has worked fine since then. Also zip tied the float sensor on the oil tank so it always shows full.
@elmaschinon mines a 98 modal zxi and it doesn't have your normal float in the oil. Has a straight pipe with wires going down? Can I just ru the jetski without it plugged in ???
Hey mine has been sitting for a while and when I looked inside there was oil all in the bottom coming from the oil pump and the fuel lines. do u think doing this would be the fix?
How's it going? I just bought one of these 1997 kawasak 1100 stx this weekend. Its bogging out and the acceleration isn't nowhere near where it should be. I'm thinking about ordering new carburetors. Also it was missing two of the black pipes that sit on top of the carburetor that goes to the fire assertion setup so I'm ordering 2 of those. Do you think that could have anything to do with the way its running? Also the ski already had the oil tank taking off im assuming they done what you did is there anyway I can find out if the took the key out without taking it apart? Thanks in advance
Doing good man. Thanks for asking. I hear alot about peoples wave runners going really slow or bogging out. Most of the times it turns out to be a rock stuck in the propeller or some kind of debri. I'd check that first. As far as the delete. The only way to really know is to pull the staitor cover to know for sure. Make sure all the lines are plugged. U don't want any water in ur carbs. Mix ur fuel good and u should be good to go. Have fun with it. I can leave a brand new 2020 wave runner in the dust with mine. This things are pretty fun. Good luck!
You can take the oil tank out. And take the coupler from the front of the crank shaft to the oil pump. That will keep the engine water tight and the oil pump from turning. Then just premix ur fuel.
I was told to take the line off and blow through it. These are common to get plugged. It is for the cooling system. Make sure to check it to see if it is clear. You can also put the air compressor hose on it to blow it out if its clogged or just doesen't feel like it is clear enough.
I bought the aluminum block off plate with two new screws. And yes my starter spring flew out. Landed on the fly wheel magnet lol. Waited for the new o ring seal to come from Florida, it came and the o ring wouldn't stay in place on my 2000 stx di 1100. So I got me some painters tape out some aluminum colored RTV gasket maker. And I took a pic and put a little bit of silicone down in the stator housing seal groove. Reinstalled the o-ring with painter's tape behind it. Left it. Go for 24 hours and Shazam it was ready to install without issues of the ring falling out.
My question is Why do you want to go to premix? Change your oil lines every 6 years or so and you are good to go. Add a filter in line between your oil pump and oil tank if you don't have one. Use a plastic mesh strainer and not a paper element filter.
Most Seadoos still have the original oil lines still on them (20yr old oil lines) and they're still good. I have only seen one oil pump failure in 27 years of PWC repair and it would have failed under warranty if they had ridden it more than just a few times. It was missing the seal retainer from the factory.
The reason most 2 cycle engines fail is because of a lean fuel to air mixture usually caused my a dirty carburetor or fuel restriction and/or a leaking crankshaft seal or air leak in the crank case.
The answer is because with premix you don't have to worry about everything you just said.
@@elmaschinon2699 Nonsense! Carbs getting plugged up is a LOT more common than oil pump failure. Yamaha has the best lube system in that the oil is injected into the carb throat, completely bypassing the internal section of the carb.
Problems with premix include: it's messy, you have to carry oil with you when you buy gas, you have to do math at the gas pump, it smokes excessively at idle, some oils don't stay mixed with gasoline.
@@steveprice5664 Yea u r right ima put everything back on. Hahaha 😅. You do it ur way n I'll do it my way.
Hey bud thanks for the video... Did you get the oil injection block off plate or you just remove the oil injection gear in there and use the oil injector to block the opening? I just ordered he kit actually, and came across this video.. How has it been running with the 40-1 ratio? I just want to be safe I read 50-1 somewhere else but I just bought the kawasaki 2 cycle oil and I dont think its synthetic.. That may make a difference? I also read that the stator cover has the 2 cooling ports and lines that need to be somehow cleaned out? New to working on these things any help is greatly appreciated. GREAT VIDEO.
I just removed the little gear key way in there and reassembled everything back like normal. The 40-1 ratio has worked great for me and not having to worry about the oil injection makes it a better ride.
@@elmaschinon2699 Hey bud thanks for the quick reply.. Wish I would have saw this before I ordered the block off kit. Really appreciate the help.
So you didn't remove the oil lines from the carbs? Just leave it all attached?
I did remove the lines. Then just plugged them off with some rubber plugs
If you hit that key out, what keeps the water from entering into the stator? From the two water lines attached to cool the oil?
That part is sealed off from the water. Mine have been running great for years.
What did you use to block off the holes on carb? I'm not trying to order the kit.
I used fuel line and melted the ends but u can buy rubber plugs.
Hey bud thanks for the video .. I'm very new to this type of motor and i just bought 2 of them .. i was wondering what is the point of doing what you showed in the video and what mix are you talking about and how do we put that back in lol sorry for the all questions but i was researching how to change the oil on these things and came across your video .. thanks in advance
This engines are 2 stroke. Meaning they don't take engine oil in he crank case. They come equipped with two tanks. A gas tank and a 2 stroke oil tank. The engine comes with a small pump mounted to the stator cover wich gets driven by the crank shaft. The pump pumps oil into each carburetor to be mixed with fuel and lubricate the internals of the engine. Sometimes those pumps fail. And by the time u notice is usually to late because u probably ruined ur engine by then. The purpose to this mod is that u delete that part of the system and start pre mixing ur fuel so u know for sure ur engine is gating lubricated.
@@elmaschinon2699 one question man crankshaft don't need oil
@@javiermontes3777 no man. Not on two strokes. That's why you add oil to the gas. The carb shoots gas and it passes through the crankcase before going into the cylinder and that's how it lubes the crank.
@@elmaschinon2699 you know how to remove that bearing from the cone and the pump and where I can buy that
Same thing happe to one of mine fried the #1 piston. so pre mix it is for the second one
How did you get the stator out without taking the motor out. I’m having trouble with that.
Just feeling around for the bolts and pry off the case because the sealer practically glues it to the block.
The oil injecting unit that is factory , does it inject oil after carbs ?
It injects at the carbs.
Hi I just bought a 1998 Kawasaki STX 1100 a few weeks ago the previous owner did an oil pump delete and damage the third cylinder the engine is now rebuilt and I'm about to put it back in the jet ski I will now be premixing the oil I was just wondering if you might know if the bottom case gets its own oil I read online somewhere that it doesn't and just gets lubrication from premixed fuel hope someone can clarify this for me thank you
@IlirGashi-wg8kf 2 stroke engines don't have oil in the crank case. They lube from the oil in the gas. So what u read is correct.
Hey man I've been having a issue with my 2000 kawasaki 1100 zxi where it seems like it runs fine for a while then at some point it just seems like I'll be going then it will bog down and shut of sometimes then I won't be able to get it out of idle without it doing it again I'm pretty sure the carbs were rebuilt by the way
I think it's most likely something to do with your coil packs. I've seen it were coils will run fine until they get a little hot and shut down. Then once they cool down they run again. Good luck.
@@elmaschinon2699 thanks buddy I'll let you know
you did way to much work! just remove the oil pump. They make a plate that goes in place of the oil pump. Then there is no reason to take everything apart. You also mention if your going to go your route to use a punch and hit the bearing out. I think it would be easier if you just removed the C-clip holding the bearing in and just slip the bearing out.
I'm trying that right now. C-clip came off completely and it's still stuck in there
Does this mean if you use the plate then you don't need to cap off oil injector tubes in carb as well?
Rubber caps work great.
@mogyver69 so just to get it straight you need to remove the oil pump, cap it off w plate, then you need to remove carb to put rubber caps on?
Iv done the block off plate and Iv blocked off the 3 ports at the bottom but do I block off the single port at the top near accelerator cable? Or continue to run from the tee piece in the fuel line before the fuel filter??
When I did my jetskis I just plugged the 3 ports on the carbs and took the key way out of the oil pump. Has worked fine since then. Also zip tied the float sensor on the oil tank so it always shows full.
@elmaschinon mines a 98 modal zxi and it doesn't have your normal float in the oil. Has a straight pipe with wires going down? Can I just ru the jetski without it plugged in ???
Yea u can run it like that. Just ur oil level light will be on all the time.
Hey mine has been sitting for a while and when I looked inside there was oil all in the bottom coming from the oil pump and the fuel lines. do u think doing this would be the fix?
Well you should probably get the excess oil out and yes doing this should get rid of that problem.
@@elmaschinon2699 thanks
How's it going? I just bought one of these 1997 kawasak 1100 stx this weekend. Its bogging out and the acceleration isn't nowhere near where it should be. I'm thinking about ordering new carburetors. Also it was missing two of the black pipes that sit on top of the carburetor that goes to the fire assertion setup so I'm ordering 2 of those. Do you think that could have anything to do with the way its running? Also the ski already had the oil tank taking off im assuming they done what you did is there anyway I can find out if the took the key out without taking it apart? Thanks in advance
Doing good man. Thanks for asking. I hear alot about peoples wave runners going really slow or bogging out. Most of the times it turns out to be a rock stuck in the propeller or some kind of debri. I'd check that first. As far as the delete. The only way to really know is to pull the staitor cover to know for sure. Make sure all the lines are plugged. U don't want any water in ur carbs. Mix ur fuel good and u should be good to go. Have fun with it. I can leave a brand new 2020 wave runner in the dust with mine. This things are pretty fun. Good luck!
@@elmaschinon2699 propeller bearings that can be the problem to
Hello how are do you do auto to manual conversation transmission for people i need for my truck
Hi, I have only done it for some of my friends. Where do u live?
Hi, what ab the rotary valve can I remove the oil tank fully or do I have to connect it somehow? Sorry not totally sure how these things work..
You can take the oil tank out. And take the coupler from the front of the crank shaft to the oil pump. That will keep the engine water tight and the oil pump from turning. Then just premix ur fuel.
what about the water line connecting to the case do you block that off too?
No. Just put it back together like normal
I was told to take the line off and blow through it. These are common to get plugged. It is for the cooling system. Make sure to check it to see if it is clear. You can also put the air compressor hose on it to blow it out if its clogged or just doesen't feel like it is clear enough.
hey there, what about the transmission oil?? is there seperate oil?? is there gear oil??
What did you do for the oil level sensor in the oil tank to get the alarm off of the dash?
Zip tie it upside down so it thinks its always full of oil
Somebody know how to remove the bearing from jet pump cone Kawasaki 150 ulta
greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=196268
Read through this page. Hope that helps.
@@elmaschinon2699 thank you responded and I appreciate
Warm it up with a torch, grab it with a welding glove and slam it down open end first on a piece of wood.