Take Apart Tesla Model S Frunk & Cabin Air Filter (Apr. 2016+)
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Learn how to take apart the frunk and access the bioweapon defense mode cabin air filter of a refreshed Tesla Model S. The car used in this video is a 2018 model, but these instructions apply to Model S built in April 2016 or later (unless Tesla changes things again, of course).
If you're trying to take apart a pre-refresh dual motor Model S, I have a video for that: • Quick DIY: How To Disa...
If you're trying to take apart a Model 3, I have a video for that too: • What's Under The Model...
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Disclosure: The creator of this video is a Tesla owner and is long $TSLA
Alex, Seriously, thank you for taking the time to show this so clearly. It really helped me pull the frunk out of my P100D just ahead of some further drag strip testing. I'm currently sitting at 11.07s so will see what difference this and the rear seat bench actually make, hopefully tomorrow. - Cheers , Andrew (UK)
wow so well designed and so easy to access parts to change.
You made a nice video here. I have a 2020 Model S and I drove it from Sacramento to Rochester NY. Couple days after I got there it threw up a bunch of codes after supercharging. Rochester SC was nice, gave me a loaner and replaced the battery coolant heater. Who woulda known. I asked if they could replace the 12V battery which was almost 4 yrs old and they said no because it tested healthy. When the time comes I want to change it myself and I can do it with your video. Warranty will be up in June or sooner since I'm at 46.5k mi. Also they replaced the front half shafts. Not really a comment here just some FYI.
It is so much harder than gasoline car!!! Genius engineering!!!
so that's the HEPA filter, sheesh it's big! Thanks for the great tutorial Alex!
Perfect, I you did take the time to mention the model year, which many do not bother to tell but it is important when it comes to cabin air filters. Good Job
Tesla spent a lot of time arranging systems so that the frunk could be as large as possible. I hope that these components will last a very long time, as replacing parts and diagnosing problems would get very expensive. Thank you so much, Alex!
Alex thanks for that, you answered like 4 different questions with this video....not to mention time and MONEY $$$ (which after paying for my Model S I don't have) :)
man, that hepa 'upgrade' really did cut down Frunk Space (of course, I don't think I've used my 2016 "frunk" more than 1 or 2 times in all the years I've had it! )
Very well dun Alex. !😮
Great video. Thanks Alex.
I started taking it apart. From the previous repair done in Rochester I found that the two drain hoses were not connected. The clip on the big hose side was broken. Also missing little push pins on the side pieces. Makes you wonder. Also I'm just wondering what water would go into that tray where the drain hoses are? In any case it looks like I can't change the 12v unless the frunk comes out. It's a Hankook 30Ah.
2013 model s , just found out if you don't move those bump stops (twist a bit), they will lock up. Guess they used steel in aluminum there.
Thank you Alex, if you were on a sound dampening binge, what, if anything, in the Frunk would you wrap with deadening mats and/or MVL?
I’ll let Tesla Service change mine :)
Does any one know what is the purpose of the left and right hoses that are not connected to anything? anyone else notice them?
Excellent video.
Is the 2022 MS LR the same to replace the hepa filter?
Great video .. very helpful .. keep it up man
why go through the mess while you can schedule mobil service to replace it for 24 buck. i just schedule mine 2017 mx
Can i replace the battery without removing the front tub that has the cabin filter attached?? Thanks!
It has been a while since I’ve taken one of these frunks apart, but I think you can replace the 12V battery without completely removing the tub. You can clearly see the battery and its hold-down bracket as soon as I remove the cabin air duct.
@AlexVenz
Thanks for the video!
Do you gain access to the "membrane" of the headlights after removing the frunk?
I am trying to remove the water from the headlights of a 2018 Model S I am wondering should I remove the frunk or the covers inside the wheel arches to gain access to the headlights?
Thanks in advance!
It's been quite a while since I shot this video, so my memory is a bit fuzzy... But it does look like the rear of the headlight housings are accessible from the frunk once the trim and tub are removed, based on the quick tour I did at the end of the video.
@@AlexVenz Thanks!
Hey there...I just bought the Tesla S Plaid. Is it pretty easy to install a front laser jammer system? I am not sure how to run the wires from the front bumper into the cabin. Thanks. Aaron
Please tell me you live near Los Angeles. I have a terrible smell coming out of the vents, I have tried to clean all of the inside surfaces in the car which hasn't helped. I figure it is due to the air filter OR due to some mold/mildew something in the ducting or the AC. In any case, I have taken it to the Tesla dealership AND the smell is still there! They tried to mask it which helped for a few days but the nasty smell came back. PLEASE HELP ME
Hey, thanks for this video. My 2018 model S died during charging in my garage; car threw all sorts of errors including "shutting down" and service required. Tesla had to replace the onboard charging unit.
That morning when car failed, I heard a different, rattling type of noise from the frunk; it was not a sound I've heard before. Sounded like something was still moving. Last night, I saw a rat in my garage, and immediately connected the two. I'm now thinking that a rat got under the frunk and chewed through a wire that ended up killing the onboard charger, since the car was charging at the time.
I know Tesla accessed the frunk (as they forgot to tuck back in the liner under the seal, but I don't think they were looking for chewed wires. I'm now concerned that a chewed wire is still exposed and could cause another failure when it rains and that area gets wet.
Any thoughts of which wires might have been chewed? I'm either going to remove the frunk myself and check things out (using your video as reference), or let Tesla know about the rat and have them double check everything, no doubt paying labor.
Thanks for any advice!
Honestly, there is so much stuff under the frunk that could cause problems if damaged that I couldn't point you to any specific thing. I'd probably start by checking wiring near openings into the compartment, especially ground connections.
Great video Alex! This helps me a lot as I'm about to tear apart the frunk to search for the source of my MS '17 air suspension leak. Any chance you know where the air fill valve is located? The location on the pre-refresh S is well documented online (it's on the strut brace up near the base of the windshield), but I can't find much info on '16.5 and newer Ss like mine.
If I remember correctly, the fill valve is located on the air system reservoir for these cars, as opposed to being located on the chassis brace for the older ones, and it's a dry nitrogen fill.
@@AlexVenz I imagine that was done to eliminate one potential failure point (the T valve). Hopefully it's not too difficult to access. I'm guessing most of the nitrogen is gone from my system and replaced with air. How important is it to charge the system with nitrogen again once the leak has been fixed?
@@davidlemieux2606 I don't know exactly how important the nitrogen fill is, but I do know that Tesla recommends not using shop air because it could introduce too much moisture into the system.
@@AlexVenz luckily I'm in Canada and it's well below freezing outside, so no moisture in the air. Perhaps once the issue is resolved I can take it to a tire shop to inflate with nitrogen. Anyway, thanks again!
So basically Tesla has 2 air filters one in the frunk area and another under the glove box?
Or different year models have different setups?
Different models and different years have different cabin air filter configurations.
hey Alex can you make a video to compare getting a used model s versus a new model 3 please? im relatively frustrated about which to get and dont want to make the wrong decision. their prices are relatively similar at the moment.
I'm planning on doing exactly that. I just got my Model S back from service yesterday, so I should be able to get started on it somewhat soon-ish.
keep in mind that Model 3 warranty for battery goes only up to 80k if I am correct, that is made of steel and of similar weight, smaller size and used one will have free charging. my vote goes for low miles MS produced only after 2015...
@@tompaj10 that's exactly what im looking into. A used 2015 with lower than 50k miles so that I get the 4 years/50k bumper to bumper warranty. I like my auto pilot. Don't know if I'd pay 5000 for it.
I have auto pilot in mine but I would not pay for it now. Cold weather/heated seats are important for people in cold climate due to fairly weak heater in Tesla MS.@@geo5106
tompaj10 nice. I’ll look into the seats. which model do you have? Was interested in seeing if getting “P” was important. Don’t know how much different a 4.5 sec vs 5.5 sec feels in 0-60
Can you elaborate on the redundant power input for the steering? T For it to make sense there would have to be two separate 12 Volt systems. I didn't know there was. Or is one input from the steering wheel and the other from the AP?
The steering system is not steer by wire, there's still a mechanical connection between the wheel and the rack. I haven't seen a wiring diagram for this setup yet or a circuit diagram of the power assist control board, but after poking around in the frunk area I'm guessing that what they're doing is feeding in two 12V lines to drive two independent power assist control boards.
@@AlexVenz I assume there is only one motor on the steering rack?
Correct
Alex, do you know where to buy replacement HEPA bioweapon filter? I’ve found the cabin filter replacements online but the HEPA filters are scarce.
Your best bet is to buy it through a Tesla service center
@@AlexVenz So ordered it from Tesla. the HEPA filter is glued into the plastic housing that is bolted onto the Frunk. That’s why you can’t find any aftermarket filters. I guess one could pull out the filter and get one that fits and glue it back in but it seems cumbersome. Telsa charged $220 for it. The inside cabin filter was $8.80 which was way less than many aftermarket ones online.
General hospital 🏥 drama queen 👸🏼
🦅🦅🇺🇸
Which lapel mic do you use?
It's a Countryman B3 lavalier mic
THE MUSIC DRONING ON IN THE BACKGROUND MAKE THIS DIFFICULT TO LISTEN TO. EVERYONE IS A FRUSTRATED DJ.
Only buy one of these cars If you have a lot of money to burn.... Never buy one used.
People buy used MB and BMWs all the time and they are way worse than this.