Hey John, another informative, and awesome video as always. I love you a whole lot. Is the 2020 Keystone Bullet Travel Trailer as high quality as an R-Pod trailer? In my opinion, the Keystone bullet looks somewhat bland and as my pa would put it, "Trashy". Keep up the amazing work John. -George
George, The Bullet is pretty solid. Probably the biggest gain from the Keystone Bullet is the Hyperdeck subfloors which don't wick up water. So if you have any leaking, the floor is not ruined. It has worked well for me. I still have the R-Pod as well and like it for smaller campsites. All the best!
John, I’m towing a 23’ airstream using a Blue Ox Sway Pro at the 9th link. My tow vehicle is a 2020 F150 Platinum short box. I went to a CAT scale today for the first time. Weights were Steer Axle 3120, Drive Axle 3520, -‘; Trailer Axle 4980 and Gross Weight 11620. Should I move up the 8th link to push more weight onto the front axle? Thanks Jim
Great video as yusual John. I'm amazed that this is the first time I've heard of a WDH which I really wish I had about a week ago when I was in the beautiful Olympic National Park. And if you've ever been up there you know the roads are less than ideal. I was towing my Rpod 196 with my Porsche Cayenne which is not a very good tow vehicle but it does the job, I would not recommend ever using one. But anyways my Rpod was loaded a little heavier than I'm used to and I was going down a a hill with a sharp turn and the front of my car felt very loose and unfortunately I clipped the guard rail with the back of my Rpod but luckily only minor damage was sustained but I sure wish I had a WDH back then. Anyways thanks for the great video John and if you know of anyway to patch small damaged areas I would love to hear them. -Sebastian
Sorry to hear about your issue. Generally if you are feeling that your steering is loose, it likely means you have too much weigh on your car's rear axle. Glad the video was helpful. All the best!
Did I hear you right? Going from 9 links to 8 links put more pressure on the bars? MY RV dealer initially setup my rig to 9 spare links. They kept blowing the fuse when raising the truck and the ride felt way too stiff, transmitting bumps from the trailer back up to the truck, very uncomfortable. I then tried 8 links and it was easier on bumpy roads and although I did blow the fuse again it was because of the uneven dip I was working in when unhooking at the campsite. Next trip I tried 7 unused links and this was too soft, lots of bouncing through bumps so I'm going back to 8 unused links. Hope to hear from you on my experience. I'm towing a 27 FT 6300# Airstream with a 1 Ton Ram 4x4 with airbags. I like the zip tie trick to remember my links, thank you. Leo in Whitefish, Montana
Fewer links will move more weight to the front of the tow vehicle and back of the trailer, lowering weight at the hitch. I've never noticed a change in ride quality in my Toyota Tundra when changing the number of links. Your 1-Ton Ram is likely set up very differently than my 1/2-ton Tundra in terms of ride quality. I have no idea why you are blowing fuses. I've never had that happen. The tip on using a zip tie is a good one, thanks for sharing!
Thank you for this great and super informative video. Can anyone inform me as to how having an AWD affects how you would want to distribute weight on the “axles”? Thanks
Not sure it matters but you should reference your car’s owners manual under the towing section. Some unibody vehicles speak specifically about using weight distribution hitches. I have a video on towing with a Honda Pilot that may help: ruclips.net/video/WAIMgWv7Zjo/видео.htmlsi=hHFv3iq9NQnEWeaj
John: Maybe you can help me with math. I got a new tow vehicle, and have weighed it with my RV on Cat Scale. My trucks capacities are as follows: Front axle...3,500 Rear axle..3,600. GVWR 6,250. My Cat Scale numbers were: Front axle 2,760 Rear axle 3,500. I thought I was good, but adding up those numbers puts me over GVWR even though I'm within axle perimeters. Trailer was not an issue Weighed 4,700 max is 5,500. Can you help explain this? Thanks John
@@keithmcgregor2546 I can have more than 600 lbs difference between axles when towing, however, a good setup with a weight distribution hitch will minimize this. My last Cat Scale was in April with 3,460 lbs. on my steer axle and 3,700 lbs. on my drive axle. You may be able to adjust your WDH to move more weight to the front axle.
I missed this video a couple years ago ! Another great video John. I think I'll head to a CAT scale before too long. Safe travels.................. Bob in Grand Rapids MI
Thanks for this video. We are new R podders and have been watching your channel for awhile. Your videos are always to the point and very informative. Thanks
Rob, it would be great if you could take a moment and reply with the math supporting your statement. Most folks reading this won’t understand otherwise. Thanks!
@@JohnMarucci hi John I am in New Zealand am a engineer and designed a few trailers, lived and worked in US to for a number of years own a Carson rebel toy hauler tow with a Toyota Ute , very light weight tow vehicle. Now generally speaking you really want to design with about 10%drawbar weight, more makes it tow better but can put big loads in funny places. Yours for example I would consider quite extreme in that to take off over a 1000lb on the hitch via the WDH you are putting huge bending load on the trailer draw bar and I would suggest keeping a close eye on the frame at the front of the box, and also a huge load on the front attachment of your trucks hitch. I BTW do use a WDH but also have airbags to do the donkey work of the leveling kinda a 50-50 thing and find that works best. From experience I find that leveling the vehicle is more important than weight distribution but all hitches inherently give some sway control and in the US high hiway speed situation I would not go without a WDH for that reason. But a trailer your size would only expect to be moving 500-750 lb
Rob, thanks for the reply and explanation of your comment. The 5,000 lb. unloaded Keystone Bullet is certainly at the max for the Tundra with the WDH. There is only so much weight you can move fore and aft from the tongue before you need truck with more capacity or better structure. Thanks again!
@@JohnMarucci actually I don’t really agree with you there the tundra can tow heaps more if set up properly. A tow load equal to the tow vehicle is quite acceptable, in fact a tow vehicle 80% of tow load is fine but normally this would put you outside max gross combination mass. What you are mainly doing in the US is trying to fix your f,d up vehicle setups where you have super light springs and crap load carrying capacity. My NZ hilux I can put 400kg on basically 1000lb and will hardly go down, US truck put that on it and it sits on its arse screwing up all the handling geometry. Everyone in the RV world in the US seems to be on the WDH bandwagon which is actually just fixing a crap suspension setup and I would suggest creating a whole heap of other potential problems, I already see you tube with broken drawbars no surprises to me, and what you are doing puts you at that risk point I believe, just imagine the loads on your truck if you go through a dip in the road. You really need to fix the truck first before you throw these bandaids on , either by airbags or re-springing with helper springs then topping up with a WDH to do final leveling and provide a little sway control.
Well done video on a much misunderstood topic. FWIW, you can take it another step from what you describe here and compare your measured weights to your vehicle specifications and also calculate the Front Axle Load Restoration percentage from your WDH (you're at a good 81% with 8 links). Interestingly, I looked up a 2017 Tundra TRD 4x4 on the internet and found a gross vehicle weight rating of 7,100 lbs. If that's correct for your vehicle, the 700 lb. tongue weight + 6,400 lb. vehicle weight puts you right at that max weight. Any additional cargo or passengers and you will be over. I don't know if you're a member of the RPod owners group on FB, but if so, there's a spreadsheet that you can download there that will do the calculations for you. Again, good video. Thx.
John, Great analysis on WDH's. I learned the hard way on how important a WDH hitch as I originally tried just using a sway bar that helped sway but really didn't help the cause of the sway, which was uneven loading on the tow vehicle and had almost 2 inches of drop on the rear end and 1" of rise on the front. I found out there was to much drop on the rear end and needed to get a WDH. With a WDH the sway is gone and now it tows like a dream and it handle much better on bumpy roads. I really like your Blue Ox for easy adjustability for different things you tow and taking the tow bars off and on and IMO looks like the best WDH I've seen! I have a Husky Centerline TS that works well and looks to be about half the cost of the Blue Ox but I only have the one trailer to tow and so I don't need the easy adjustability. I am able to get the spring bars off and on pretty easy by raising the electric jack high enough to pull them off but hopefully that doesn't overstress the jack?
Mike, I similarly have to raise and lower my tongue considerably to lower tension and remove the chains. So I think this is fairly common. The main item that can be overworked in this process is your power tongue jack as you mentioned. Point of clarity, I actually have a different Blue Ox set up for the Pod vs the Bullet as they sit at very different heights and it would mean making major changes to the shank when moving between trailers. The one for the Pod I purchased when I got the Pod in Spring of 2017, the one for the Bullet in 2019. Thanks again for the comment, all the best!
Hey John, quick question do you use your blue ox system with your Rpod as well? We have a 2017 rpod 178 and a 2016 Silverado and I don't currently have a weight distribution system. Wondering if I should get one for longer trips. Keep up the great work!
John, I wonder how adding 30 gallons of fresh water in my RPod 191 affects the distribution of weight over the 3 axles? 250 pounds added just in front of the RPod axle probably requires more tension on the weight distribution hitch.
Tim, I think it would add some tongue weight and some axle weight. You would need to check it before and after on a CAT Scale to know exactly. Given that, with a Tundra and any of the smaller Pods, it likely isn't an issue that would need adjustment. You can always try it both ways as far as number of links on the WDH and see what you like. Thanks!
I understand that most large, trailered boats have surge brakes that are incompatible with WDH... As a result, WDHs are not typically used with those heavy boat trailers. (Same could be said for big utility and livestock trailers, BTW.) How do these big boat and utility trailers get away without WDHs when towing a travel trailer without a WDH is described as unsafe and dangerous? Just sayin'
Ely, another fine question. I am not familiar with boat towing as you mentioned. I suppose the aerodynamics of a travel trailer and potential weight behind the axles (via people loading them improperly) is a consideration. What a WDH doesn't make up for is bad decisions when loading any trailer. Thanks again for a great question!
So, I'm looking to purchase a travel trailer and am a newbie. Other than selection of the trailer, I am very concerned with the GVWR, tongue weight, etc. Do you have a video on what all I need to know about this before I buy? Thank you.
Tracey, I walked through some of this on a live show this past summer. Just go to time stamp 23 min 30 sec on this video: ruclips.net/video/2oY92yTWnAY/видео.html or by podcast: www.podbean.com/eu/pb-2wm77-f4246f
Thanks John! I've always towed for years with a different WDH and sway bar setup. but until I saw this I really didn't know how they worked, just that I can tow more easily with them, and with a Nissan Xterra TV I really need to use them. RV dealers should really tell people this information. Thanks again.
I think I did some measurements when I was putting the video together, but mainly of the differences in sag at the rear and front of the truck. Not sure I still have those somewhere. If I find them I'll post back. Thanks!
What is the stress on the trailer frame (ball to axle) and the tow vehicle frame as the WDH "moves weight" between axles? Are there any considerations for tow vehicles with unibody construction vs. ladder frames? Is the dynamic stress (e.g., bouncing over a rough highway) higher than the static stress as measured on a scale? Just sayin'
Ely, good point. It would be hard to say the stress over time on the frames of the tow vehicle and trailer when using a WDH. Not sure how you would measure it. Some car manufactures (i.e. Honda) warn against using WDH on their unibody frames. I am sure there is more wear on the frames as the hitch is trying to keep weight distributed. If you find some research on the subject, feel free to add a link to it. Thanks for the comment!
It really depends on the drop on the shank. It can be a problem if the shank hangs low. Whoever sets it up needs to do it correctly with the right shank and direction of the shank to try and avoid this issue.
Matthew, I haven't looked at it. I have used the E2 from Fastway and the Blue Ox Sway Pro and both are excellent, but not cheap. Generally you'll get what you pay for. Also, besides price, there is ease of use. The Blue Ox is very easy to use and adjust. The E2 is a bit more difficult to adjust while traveling. So keep this in mind. I'd personally watch a bunch RUclips videos on the various models before making this type of important safety decision. Thanks!
Can you get the tongue weight using these scales? Weigh together then TV and trailer separately? Since I've added a bike carrier in front I need an easy/cheap way to measure without the bath scale beam method.
You might be able to do this, but most of these scales are at truck stops and used regularly by truckers. It would be tough to stop and disconnect in order to weigh the the tongue without backing up the scale.
John Nagy, you can get tongue weight using the procedure described in the video. Tongue weight = (Drive Axle + Steer Axle with trailer hooked up and WDH disengaged) - (Drive Axle + Steer Axle of the truck alone). The tongue weight in the video based on the weights provided is 700 lbs. (4,040 + 3,060) - (3,020 + 3,380) = 700 lbs.
Great video, John! Very interesting and informative. We will be picking up our new trailer in December and already have chosen the Blue Ox WDH. When you are counting the links to increase the tension, are you counting from the end of the chain or from where it is connected to the tension bar?
At 4:27 you said you reset to EIGHT links of chain. You count links from the FREE end of the chain and to increase tension, you would have needed to go to TEN links, not the other way. Blue Ox says 9 links is nominal, and use 10 or 11 only if needed.
I count eight links from the bar not including the half link that is attached to the bar. Fewer toward the bar means more tension. I usually do 8 links with my heavier Keystone Bullet, works well. Thanks.
@@JohnMarucci thanks for this clarification on counting the links. I have the same Blue Ox WDH with 1000 lb. bars on our 2018 F150 and 2021 Grand Design 22 MLE trailer. Similar weights to your setup. Your video is hands down THE BEST tutorial and explanation of this WDH setup. I have watched several of your videos and really appreciate all of your work and attention to detail. Safe travels and maybe I'll see you out on the road some day.
Kathy, it depends on the WDH, some, like my Blue Ox do have sway control build in. So you don't need a sway bar as well. I think the E2 is similar, but you'd need to check on other brands. Thanks!
Excellent video John. There’s a lot of misinformation and lack of clarity out there (from other channels that I won’t mention here) about the function and benefits of weight distribution. Thank you for for putting this together the right way. Keep em coming!
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Hey John, another informative, and awesome video as always. I love you a whole lot. Is the 2020 Keystone Bullet Travel Trailer as high quality as an R-Pod trailer? In my opinion, the Keystone bullet looks somewhat bland and as my pa would put it, "Trashy". Keep up the amazing work John. -George
George, The Bullet is pretty solid. Probably the biggest gain from the Keystone Bullet is the Hyperdeck subfloors which don't wick up water. So if you have any leaking, the floor is not ruined. It has worked well for me. I still have the R-Pod as well and like it for smaller campsites. All the best!
John, thanks for doing all the hard work. You've convinced me to go with a WDH, even though my trailer is only 4500 lbs.
Glad the video was helpful! All the best.
John, I’m towing a 23’ airstream using a Blue Ox Sway Pro at the 9th link. My tow vehicle is a 2020 F150 Platinum short box. I went to a CAT scale today for the first time. Weights were Steer Axle 3120, Drive Axle 3520, -‘; Trailer Axle 4980 and Gross Weight 11620. Should I move up the 8th link to push more weight onto the front axle?
Thanks
Jim
Great video as yusual John. I'm amazed that this is the first time I've heard of a WDH which I really wish I had about a week ago when I was in the beautiful Olympic National Park. And if you've ever been up there you know the roads are less than ideal. I was towing my Rpod 196 with my Porsche Cayenne which is not a very good tow vehicle but it does the job, I would not recommend ever using one. But anyways my Rpod was loaded a little heavier than I'm used to and I was going down a a hill with a sharp turn and the front of my car felt very loose and unfortunately I clipped the guard rail with the back of my Rpod but luckily only minor damage was sustained but I sure wish I had a WDH back then. Anyways thanks for the great video John and if you know of anyway to patch small damaged areas I would love to hear them. -Sebastian
Sorry to hear about your issue. Generally if you are feeling that your steering is loose, it likely means you have too much weigh on your car's rear axle. Glad the video was helpful. All the best!
Did I hear you right? Going from 9 links to 8 links put more pressure on the bars? MY RV dealer initially setup my rig to 9 spare links. They kept blowing the fuse when raising the truck and the ride felt way too stiff, transmitting bumps from the trailer back up to the truck, very uncomfortable.
I then tried 8 links and it was easier on bumpy roads and although I did blow the fuse again it was because of the uneven dip I was working in when unhooking at the campsite. Next trip I tried 7 unused links and this was too soft, lots of bouncing through bumps so I'm going back to 8 unused links. Hope to hear from you on my experience. I'm towing a 27 FT 6300# Airstream with a 1 Ton Ram 4x4 with airbags. I like the zip tie trick to remember my links, thank you. Leo in Whitefish, Montana
Fewer links will move more weight to the front of the tow vehicle and back of the trailer, lowering weight at the hitch. I've never noticed a change in ride quality in my Toyota Tundra when changing the number of links. Your 1-Ton Ram is likely set up very differently than my 1/2-ton Tundra in terms of ride quality. I have no idea why you are blowing fuses. I've never had that happen. The tip on using a zip tie is a good one, thanks for sharing!
Thank you for this great and super informative video.
Can anyone inform me as to how having an AWD affects how you would want to distribute weight on the “axles”?
Thanks
Not sure it matters but you should reference your car’s owners manual under the towing section. Some unibody vehicles speak specifically about using weight distribution hitches. I have a video on towing with a Honda Pilot that may help: ruclips.net/video/WAIMgWv7Zjo/видео.htmlsi=hHFv3iq9NQnEWeaj
Very well informed now about WDH. Your topics always seem to be well timed with my current interest. Thanks John!
Paul, great to hear! Thanks!!
Thank you! 🎉
John: Maybe you can help me with math. I got a new tow vehicle, and have weighed it with my RV on Cat Scale. My trucks capacities are as follows: Front axle...3,500 Rear axle..3,600. GVWR 6,250. My Cat Scale numbers were: Front axle 2,760 Rear axle 3,500. I thought I was good, but adding up those numbers puts me over GVWR even though I'm within axle perimeters. Trailer was not an issue Weighed 4,700 max is 5,500. Can you help explain this? Thanks John
Keith, I have a towing calculator in Excel I can send to you if you like. Please email me at john@johnmarucci.com
Email would not go through John ...is a difference of 600 lbs front axle to rear common ?
@@keithmcgregor2546 I can have more than 600 lbs difference between axles when towing, however, a good setup with a weight distribution hitch will minimize this. My last Cat Scale was in April with 3,460 lbs. on my steer axle and 3,700 lbs. on my drive axle. You may be able to adjust your WDH to move more weight to the front axle.
Excellent video! I'm curious about backing up with a WDH. Can you do it with any WDH or only certain types and models?
Most WDH you can back up with. Some folks only use a sway bar and those usually have to be detached before backing up.
How are you counting links? From the top of the chain down toward the bar or from the bar up?
From the bar up.
@@JohnMarucci Thanks John.
I missed this video a couple years ago ! Another great video John. I think I'll head to a CAT scale before too long. Safe travels.................. Bob in Grand Rapids MI
Thanks Bob! All the best!
Thanks for this video. We are new R podders and have been watching your channel for awhile. Your videos are always to the point and very informative. Thanks
Glad to hear that the videos are helpful! All the best!
25% drawbar weight on that trailer, would suggest not a particularly good design
Rob, it would be great if you could take a moment and reply with the math supporting your statement. Most folks reading this won’t understand otherwise. Thanks!
@@JohnMarucci hi John I am in New Zealand am a engineer and designed a few trailers, lived and worked in US to for a number of years own a Carson rebel toy hauler tow with a Toyota Ute , very light weight tow vehicle.
Now generally speaking you really want to design with about 10%drawbar weight, more makes it tow better but can put big loads in funny places. Yours for example I would consider quite extreme in that to take off over a 1000lb on the hitch via the WDH you are putting huge bending load on the trailer draw bar and I would suggest keeping a close eye on the frame at the front of the box, and also a huge load on the front attachment of your trucks hitch.
I BTW do use a WDH but also have airbags to do the donkey work of the leveling kinda a 50-50 thing and find that works best.
From experience I find that leveling the vehicle is more important than weight distribution but all hitches inherently give some sway control and in the US high hiway speed situation I would not go without a WDH for that reason.
But a trailer your size would only expect to be moving 500-750 lb
Rob, thanks for the reply and explanation of your comment. The 5,000 lb. unloaded Keystone Bullet is certainly at the max for the Tundra with the WDH. There is only so much weight you can move fore and aft from the tongue before you need truck with more capacity or better structure. Thanks again!
@@JohnMarucci actually I don’t really agree with you there the tundra can tow heaps more if set up properly. A tow load equal to the tow vehicle is quite acceptable, in fact a tow vehicle 80% of tow load is fine but normally this would put you outside max gross combination mass.
What you are mainly doing in the US is trying to fix your f,d up vehicle setups where you have super light springs and crap load carrying capacity. My NZ hilux I can put 400kg on basically 1000lb and will hardly go down, US truck put that on it and it sits on its arse screwing up all the handling geometry.
Everyone in the RV world in the US seems to be on the WDH bandwagon which is actually just fixing a crap suspension setup and I would suggest creating a whole heap of other potential problems, I already see you tube with broken drawbars no surprises to me, and what you are doing puts you at that risk point I believe, just imagine the loads on your truck if you go through a dip in the road.
You really need to fix the truck first before you throw these bandaids on , either by airbags or re-springing with helper springs then topping up with a WDH to do final leveling and provide a little sway control.
Well done video on a much misunderstood topic. FWIW, you can take it another step from what you describe here and compare your measured weights to your vehicle specifications and also calculate the Front Axle Load Restoration percentage from your WDH (you're at a good 81% with 8 links). Interestingly, I looked up a 2017 Tundra TRD 4x4 on the internet and found a gross vehicle weight rating of 7,100 lbs. If that's correct for your vehicle, the 700 lb. tongue weight + 6,400 lb. vehicle weight puts you right at that max weight. Any additional cargo or passengers and you will be over. I don't know if you're a member of the RPod owners group on FB, but if so, there's a spreadsheet that you can download there that will do the calculations for you. Again, good video. Thx.
Thanks for the informative comment!
John, Great analysis on WDH's. I learned the hard way on how important a WDH hitch as I originally tried just using a sway bar that helped sway but really didn't help the cause of the sway, which was uneven loading on the tow vehicle and had almost 2 inches of drop on the rear end and 1" of rise on the front. I found out there was to much drop on the rear end and needed to get a WDH. With a WDH the sway is gone and now it tows like a dream and it handle much better on bumpy roads.
I really like your Blue Ox for easy adjustability for different things you tow and taking the tow bars off and on and IMO looks like the best WDH I've seen! I have a Husky Centerline TS that works well and looks to be about half the cost of the Blue Ox but I only have the one trailer to tow and so I don't need the easy adjustability. I am able to get the spring bars off and on pretty easy by raising the electric jack high enough to pull them off but hopefully that doesn't overstress the jack?
Mike, I similarly have to raise and lower my tongue considerably to lower tension and remove the chains. So I think this is fairly common. The main item that can be overworked in this process is your power tongue jack as you mentioned. Point of clarity, I actually have a different Blue Ox set up for the Pod vs the Bullet as they sit at very different heights and it would mean making major changes to the shank when moving between trailers. The one for the Pod I purchased when I got the Pod in Spring of 2017, the one for the Bullet in 2019. Thanks again for the comment, all the best!
Hey John, quick question do you use your blue ox system with your Rpod as well? We have a 2017 rpod 178 and a 2016 Silverado and I don't currently have a weight distribution system. Wondering if I should get one for longer trips. Keep up the great work!
Travis, I do use a Blue Ox on my R-Pod as well. Works well.
John, I wonder how adding 30 gallons of fresh water in my RPod 191 affects the distribution of weight over the 3 axles? 250 pounds added just in front of the RPod axle probably requires more tension on the weight distribution hitch.
Tim, I think it would add some tongue weight and some axle weight. You would need to check it before and after on a CAT Scale to know exactly. Given that, with a Tundra and any of the smaller Pods, it likely isn't an issue that would need adjustment. You can always try it both ways as far as number of links on the WDH and see what you like. Thanks!
John - love the channel and your well thought out information. For your Rpod, do you use the blue Ox 1000 (on your Amazon link) or something smaller.
I have the BXW0550 (550lb bars) for my R-Pod 179 given the lighter weight of the small R-Pod. Thanks.
I understand that most large, trailered boats have surge brakes that are incompatible with WDH... As a result, WDHs are not typically used with those heavy boat trailers. (Same could be said for big utility and livestock trailers, BTW.) How do these big boat and utility trailers get away without WDHs when towing a travel trailer without a WDH is described as unsafe and dangerous? Just sayin'
Ely, another fine question. I am not familiar with boat towing as you mentioned. I suppose the aerodynamics of a travel trailer and potential weight behind the axles (via people loading them improperly) is a consideration. What a WDH doesn't make up for is bad decisions when loading any trailer. Thanks again for a great question!
So, I'm looking to purchase a travel trailer and am a newbie. Other than selection of the trailer, I am very concerned with the GVWR, tongue weight, etc. Do you have a video on what all I need to know about this before I buy? Thank you.
Tracey, I walked through some of this on a live show this past summer. Just go to time stamp 23 min 30 sec on this video: ruclips.net/video/2oY92yTWnAY/видео.html or by podcast: www.podbean.com/eu/pb-2wm77-f4246f
Thanks John! I've always towed for years with a different WDH and sway bar setup. but until I saw this I really didn't know how they worked, just that I can tow more easily with them, and with a Nissan Xterra TV I really need to use them. RV dealers should really tell people this information. Thanks again.
Glad the video was helpful!
Very good examples. One additional think might have been to include the ground to frame clearance differences.
I think I did some measurements when I was putting the video together, but mainly of the differences in sag at the rear and front of the truck. Not sure I still have those somewhere. If I find them I'll post back. Thanks!
What is the stress on the trailer frame (ball to axle) and the tow vehicle frame as the WDH "moves weight" between axles? Are there any considerations for tow vehicles with unibody construction vs. ladder frames? Is the dynamic stress (e.g., bouncing over a rough highway) higher than the static stress as measured on a scale? Just sayin'
Ely, good point. It would be hard to say the stress over time on the frames of the tow vehicle and trailer when using a WDH. Not sure how you would measure it. Some car manufactures (i.e. Honda) warn against using WDH on their unibody frames. I am sure there is more wear on the frames as the hitch is trying to keep weight distributed. If you find some research on the subject, feel free to add a link to it. Thanks for the comment!
Great info, you do a good job of explaining the details. You answered questions that I didn’t know I had. Thanks.
Craig Glad it was helpful!
Wow this is an amazing video, thank you for being so thorough
Glad to hear that the video was helpful!
What happens when you drive a weight distribution hitch over a deep gully or culvert?
It really depends on the drop on the shank. It can be a problem if the shank hangs low. Whoever sets it up needs to do it correctly with the right shank and direction of the shank to try and avoid this issue.
Thank you very much John, this helped me understand how i need to go back and figure out how t better setp up my hitch
Glad it helped!
Well done - thanks.
The best video I've seen so far comparing the weights. Thanks John!
Jose, thanks for the encouraging words. Glad the video was helpful!
Hi John what you think about harbor freight haul master hitch??
Matthew, I haven't looked at it. I have used the E2 from Fastway and the Blue Ox Sway Pro and both are excellent, but not cheap. Generally you'll get what you pay for. Also, besides price, there is ease of use. The Blue Ox is very easy to use and adjust. The E2 is a bit more difficult to adjust while traveling. So keep this in mind. I'd personally watch a bunch RUclips videos on the various models before making this type of important safety decision. Thanks!
Excellent video. Thank you.
Glad to hear it!
Excellent video. Thank you.
Glad the video was helpful. Thanks!
Well done and very informative, as usual.
Thanks Craig!
I have rp174 ipod and nissan exterra vehicle. I want to know from you is do I need to have distribution hitch?? Thanks for your response
I would use a weight distribution hitch and have on all my trailers.
Ok thanks. I appreciate your input
Awesome detailed analysis, thanks
Mark, I am glad the video was helpful. Thanks for the comment!
This is just what you need. I also use the app.
Jim, thanks for the comment.
Can you get the tongue weight using these scales? Weigh together then TV and trailer separately? Since I've added a bike carrier in front I need an easy/cheap way to measure without the bath scale beam method.
You might be able to do this, but most of these scales are at truck stops and used regularly by truckers. It would be tough to stop and disconnect in order to weigh the the tongue without backing up the scale.
John Nagy, you can get tongue weight using the procedure described in the video. Tongue weight = (Drive Axle + Steer Axle with trailer hooked up and WDH disengaged) - (Drive Axle + Steer Axle of the truck alone). The tongue weight in the video based on the weights provided is 700 lbs. (4,040 + 3,060) - (3,020 + 3,380) = 700 lbs.
Great video, John! Very interesting and informative. We will be picking up our new trailer in December and already have chosen the Blue Ox WDH. When you are counting the links to increase the tension, are you counting from the end of the chain or from where it is connected to the tension bar?
I count the chain links from the bar. Thanks!
@@JohnMarucci Thanks!
A very informative video. If you could do a video with the equalizer 4 wdh , that would truly be appreciated.
Larry, I don't have an Equalizer to test with. If I do switch to one at some point, I can show how to adjust it. Thanks!
@@JohnMarucci Thank you.
At 4:27 you said you reset to EIGHT links of chain. You count links from the FREE end of the chain and to increase tension, you would have needed to go to TEN links, not the other way. Blue Ox says 9 links is nominal, and use 10 or 11 only if needed.
I count eight links from the bar not including the half link that is attached to the bar. Fewer toward the bar means more tension. I usually do 8 links with my heavier Keystone Bullet, works well. Thanks.
@@JohnMarucci thanks for this clarification on counting the links. I have the same Blue Ox WDH with 1000 lb. bars on our 2018 F150 and 2021 Grand Design 22 MLE trailer. Similar weights to your setup. Your video is hands down THE BEST tutorial and explanation of this WDH setup. I have watched several of your videos and really appreciate all of your work and attention to detail. Safe travels and maybe I'll see you out on the road some day.
@@tonyinfante7993 Thanks for the feedback Tony!
Is Husky brand a good WDH?
From what I’ve heard it is a good brand. I have only used the Equalizer and the Blue Ox brands and both have been good.
If using a WDH do you also use anti-sway bar?
Kathy, it depends on the WDH, some, like my Blue Ox do have sway control build in. So you don't need a sway bar as well. I think the E2 is similar, but you'd need to check on other brands. Thanks!
Hey John, thanks for the info. Have you done any analysis on gas mileage with and without weight distribution? Thanks again!
Excellent video John. There’s a lot of misinformation and lack of clarity out there (from other channels that I won’t mention here) about the function and benefits of weight distribution. Thank you for for putting this together the right way. Keep em coming!
Thanks Joe, I appreciate the feedback!
John, what’s the tongue weight for your trailer?
Manufacturer specs for my 2020 Keystone Bullet 243BHS shows the tongue weight at 580 lbs.