Hi there Thanks for a brilliant little video. I was having issues with idle and loss of power and changed a few things, including this vacuum pipe and fitted the EGR delete kit and it's worked the trick. Full power resumed and running better than ever 😊
@@TrackCraftPerformance thanks for the reply One question I do have. Whilst changing a few things, including the vacuum pipe I noticed that there is a black fixed metal pipe with an upside down U shape at the end that has no pipe on the top end, just behind the oil filler cap area. I notice in a still of your video that your's had a red pipe that I think heads up and then tracks along at the top of the bulkhead alongside the pipe with the throttle filter on it. Where does the red silicon pipe go to, as mine appears to be missing 🤔
So that pipe is the diff breather, usually doesn't have anything on the end but if you plan on wading at all, I'd get some 4mm tube on there and extend it to somewhere higher 👍
Bodged it. Worked fine this morning on way to work. Ordered a new intercooler. Had a split in the back. Rubbing on the screwhead lol. 13.50 for new pipe. Happy days
Thank you for your reply young man, I have a Land Rover Freelander manual drive 2 litre TD4 sedan Estate station wagon 2004 face lift , with diesel pre heater electric heater screen electric heater rear window electric heater wing mirrors and a different drivetrain to the rear axle from the MK1 excellent drive and towing, 116473mls , I believe this was when Ford America had this make of vehicle , and made a lot of upgrades and modifications, and this model was made for cold climate countries. The only thing sometimes happens: at about 70 + mls per hr hesitation and all dial’s dropped out then return to normal😮 and sometimes for no apparent reason black smoke will appear on acceleration but not very often, any suggestions? 😊ps has a good regular service history .
Hey Thanks for the comment. As far as I remember the tube was never blocked on this one? I had the filter on the turbo vent pipe bit but the red one just came up to bulkhead and attached to a bracket. The car was written off last November so it's been a while but from memory I never had anything blocking the vent
Hi mate, in the video its showing your new vacuum line is kinked where it fits to boost solonoid. may be worth checking. Thanks for the video`s by the way. Just fitted a new turbo to my freelander and what a nightmare I had lol
Hey bud, thanks for the comment. Just went out to check 😅 I think it's the angle of recording as it's a nice curve but does look a bit kinked in video for some reason lol yh I've heard the turbo can be an "interesting" job 😂😂
@@TrackCraftPerformance Interesting is one way to describe it lol I could swear but I wont :) sorry to drag you out checking must be my failing eyesight :)
Hi Sir. Thanx you so much for this. Im having problems with my Td4. Rough Idle and then it just stalls. I have no idea were to start. A feul people says it feul issue. So how much truth is there to this. If i open the feul cap I do not hear that woosh of presure that gets released. Could that be my problem.
Possibly fuel issue, if say get the vacuum hoses done first. I've got two videos that cover most of the vacuum hoses so that would be a good start. Then check your induction hoses, so turbo etc and make sure that none of them have splits or frays. If all check out then move on to fuel. It will likely be the hp fuel pump on the side of the engine which is say would be a good start 👍
I manager to sort out the problem. The feul pressure switch on the side of the feul rail was the reason for me having less hair. Thank you so much for your help.
Hey To be fair quite a few things 😅 Anything from leaky hose to transmission failure causing excessive resistance. It's just a tick box exercise to see if you can narrow it down
I had a whole load of issues with my 2003 FL1 TD4. I changed all the vac lines with silicone thick-walled tubing. Big differences in braking, pickup of engine/turbo and performance. 20 quid and half an hour. Better than new as the silicone doesn't collapse at all under a vacuum. As I was removing the old tubing it was disintegrating. LR dealer quoted 120 quid plus VAT to run diagnostics before they would touch it!! And then they would have come up with a load of parts that they reckoned needed replacing, not including the tubing.
It's amazing the difference a few small lines can make lol I had already done the brake ones as one disinterested as well. But yh it's crazy the amount a dealer will charge for this kind of work as I'm sure they see it enough to know exactly what it is without "diagnostics". Not saying it's always this and that diagnostics can't be useful but if this video helps a few save the money on it then I'm happy lol
I just checked my vacum pipe, whilst it's not got any holes in it does have some very weak points where I think it's collapsing under vacuum so I've got some 4mm silicone pipe. What the best access for the back of the engine, did you go in via the wheel arch or just did it by feel? Also, why didn't you route the new pipe along the same route as the old? (that's what I'm going to do).
I found it best to go by feel to be fair, it's not as bad for access as I thought. Just follow the line down with the new pipe already in the same hand and pull off the old one and put new one on at same time lol I routed it differently as I didn't like the pathing before, lots of areas for it to rub or get caught etc. This route gives easier access and better for inspecting it 😁👍
Yes, not always but if I was cruising along then I would get chuffing and puffs of black smoke etc it's surprising how many things this can fix 😅 not always a guarantee but it's a good start for many issues related to dirty/rough running on these engines
That’s a nice little ‘fix’ . My vacuum line is still ‘okay’ but has a fair few wear and rub marks on it where it has been chafed by the air filter/PCV plastic wear. I think I will replace mine as you have done. Just wondering if you have a link for the pipework you have fitted? Many thanks..
Hey bud, glad you like the video. I think I put the link in the description of the video at the bottom. It's decent stuff, samco 4mm vacuum tube. Shouldn't need much as it was less than a meter to go from vacuum chamber to the solenoid, then about 4 or 5 inches from solenoid to wastegate but it worth doing the vent filter as well. I'd say 2m would cover you but measure twice, cut once 😅 learned that one the hard way 😂
Your probably as well to replace them all. These cars are getting old now. When I inspected my vac hoses 3 or 4 were cracked/dry rotted. Even the one going down to the turbo.
Yh I did a video on the vacuum ones a while ago. All the hoses now done and the car definitely feels better for it. But 100% agree that with the age of the Freelander 1's it's well worth doing at this point
It doesnt usually have a pipe on there as it just needs to breathe to atmosphere. It could be that someone has put a pipe on there to extend it out for when going through water to make sure it doesn't suck in water. A better way to do it would be to just have the one pipe and make it longer and just relocate the filter somewhere better and less likely to get water
you have it on the chamber wrong it should be on the front of the chamber and the vacuum feed coming of the vacuum line should be on the back of the vacuum chamber
Hey bud, tha KS for commenting. Not sure what you mean though, it's all plumbed in as per original lines when it had the original lines on and matches the plumbing diagram that I have. I did re route the line to not have to go over engine but other than that it all matches the diagram I got from workshop manual
Just double checked lr drawings and each tube is going to the correct port so not sure why there are different drawings from LR, maybe facelift and pre facelift?
Hi there
Thanks for a brilliant little video. I was having issues with idle and loss of power and changed a few things, including this vacuum pipe and fitted the EGR delete kit and it's worked the trick. Full power resumed and running better than ever 😊
Hey
Glad it helped 😁👍 it's nice to know it's helping those out there
@@TrackCraftPerformance thanks for the reply
One question I do have. Whilst changing a few things, including the vacuum pipe I noticed that there is a black fixed metal pipe with an upside down U shape at the end that has no pipe on the top end, just behind the oil filler cap area. I notice in a still of your video that your's had a red pipe that I think heads up and then tracks along at the top of the bulkhead alongside the pipe with the throttle filter on it. Where does the red silicon pipe go to, as mine appears to be missing 🤔
So that pipe is the diff breather, usually doesn't have anything on the end but if you plan on wading at all, I'd get some 4mm tube on there and extend it to somewhere higher 👍
@@TrackCraftPerformance thanks again. Much appreciated 👍
Bodged it.
Worked fine this morning on way to work.
Ordered a new intercooler.
Had a split in the back.
Rubbing on the screwhead lol.
13.50 for new pipe. Happy days
Happy days, bargain that 👍
Glad it's all fixed 😁
Thank you for your reply young man, I have a Land Rover Freelander manual drive 2 litre TD4 sedan Estate station wagon 2004 face lift , with diesel pre heater electric heater screen electric heater rear window electric heater wing mirrors and a different drivetrain to the rear axle from the MK1 excellent drive and towing, 116473mls , I believe this was when Ford America had this make of vehicle , and made a lot of upgrades and modifications, and this model was made for cold climate countries. The only thing sometimes happens: at about 70 + mls per hr hesitation and all dial’s dropped out then return to normal😮 and sometimes for no apparent reason black smoke will appear on acceleration but not very often, any suggestions? 😊ps has a good regular service history .
*where the red hose from the IRD vent goes. it must not be blocked*
Hey
Thanks for the comment.
As far as I remember the tube was never blocked on this one? I had the filter on the turbo vent pipe bit but the red one just came up to bulkhead and attached to a bracket.
The car was written off last November so it's been a while but from memory I never had anything blocking the vent
Hi mate, in the video its showing your new vacuum line is kinked where it fits to boost solonoid. may be worth checking. Thanks for the video`s by the way. Just fitted a new turbo to my freelander and what a nightmare I had lol
Hey bud, thanks for the comment. Just went out to check 😅 I think it's the angle of recording as it's a nice curve but does look a bit kinked in video for some reason lol yh I've heard the turbo can be an "interesting" job 😂😂
@@TrackCraftPerformance Interesting is one way to describe it lol I could swear but I wont :) sorry to drag you out checking must be my failing eyesight :)
Haha I don't mind, would rather someone let me know as it's always possible to miss stuff like that and I'd rather check lol
Hi Sir. Thanx you so much for this. Im having problems with my Td4. Rough Idle and then it just stalls. I have no idea were to start. A feul people says it feul issue. So how much truth is there to this. If i open the feul cap I do not hear that woosh of presure that gets released. Could that be my problem.
Possibly fuel issue, if say get the vacuum hoses done first. I've got two videos that cover most of the vacuum hoses so that would be a good start. Then check your induction hoses, so turbo etc and make sure that none of them have splits or frays. If all check out then move on to fuel. It will likely be the hp fuel pump on the side of the engine which is say would be a good start 👍
I manager to sort out the problem. The feul pressure switch on the side of the feul rail was the reason for me having less hair. Thank you so much for your help.
This problem I am having is intermittent turbo jerking at 2000 to 3000 revs.
Puffs of black smoke.
What else would cause drag and power loss 😊
Hey
To be fair quite a few things 😅
Anything from leaky hose to transmission failure causing excessive resistance. It's just a tick box exercise to see if you can narrow it down
I had a whole load of issues with my 2003 FL1 TD4. I changed all the vac lines with silicone thick-walled tubing. Big differences in braking, pickup of engine/turbo and performance. 20 quid and half an hour. Better than new as the silicone doesn't collapse at all under a vacuum. As I was removing the old tubing it was disintegrating. LR dealer quoted 120 quid plus VAT to run diagnostics before they would touch it!! And then they would have come up with a load of parts that they reckoned needed replacing, not including the tubing.
It's amazing the difference a few small lines can make lol I had already done the brake ones as one disinterested as well. But yh it's crazy the amount a dealer will charge for this kind of work as I'm sure they see it enough to know exactly what it is without "diagnostics". Not saying it's always this and that diagnostics can't be useful but if this video helps a few save the money on it then I'm happy lol
I just checked my vacum pipe, whilst it's not got any holes in it does have some very weak points where I think it's collapsing under vacuum so I've got some 4mm silicone pipe.
What the best access for the back of the engine, did you go in via the wheel arch or just did it by feel?
Also, why didn't you route the new pipe along the same route as the old? (that's what I'm going to do).
I found it best to go by feel to be fair, it's not as bad for access as I thought. Just follow the line down with the new pipe already in the same hand and pull off the old one and put new one on at same time lol I routed it differently as I didn't like the pathing before, lots of areas for it to rub or get caught etc. This route gives easier access and better for inspecting it 😁👍
Did you have puffs of black smoke at 2.0 to 3.0 revs
Yes, not always but if I was cruising along then I would get chuffing and puffs of black smoke etc it's surprising how many things this can fix 😅 not always a guarantee but it's a good start for many issues related to dirty/rough running on these engines
Just found a split in the intercooler pipe.
Will change it Thursday.
And post
Ah amazing, well not amazing but glad you found the culprit. Hopefully fixes it all up for you 😁👍
That’s a nice little ‘fix’ . My vacuum line is still ‘okay’ but has a fair few wear and rub marks on it where it has been chafed by the air filter/PCV plastic wear. I think I will replace mine as you have done. Just wondering if you have a link for the pipework you have fitted? Many thanks..
Hey bud, glad you like the video. I think I put the link in the description of the video at the bottom. It's decent stuff, samco 4mm vacuum tube. Shouldn't need much as it was less than a meter to go from vacuum chamber to the solenoid, then about 4 or 5 inches from solenoid to wastegate but it worth doing the vent filter as well. I'd say 2m would cover you but measure twice, cut once 😅 learned that one the hard way 😂
Many thanks ..👍🏻👍🏻
Your probably as well to replace them all. These cars are getting old now. When I inspected my vac hoses 3 or 4 were cracked/dry rotted. Even the one going down to the turbo.
Yh I did a video on the vacuum ones a while ago. All the hoses now done and the car definitely feels better for it. But 100% agree that with the age of the Freelander 1's it's well worth doing at this point
Hi my turbo vent filter on my td4 has another pipe attached to the other end , is this right?
Regards
Mark 🤔
It doesnt usually have a pipe on there as it just needs to breathe to atmosphere. It could be that someone has put a pipe on there to extend it out for when going through water to make sure it doesn't suck in water. A better way to do it would be to just have the one pipe and make it longer and just relocate the filter somewhere better and less likely to get water
@@TrackCraftPerformance thanks mate I’ve got a new one to fit soon anyway.
you have it on the chamber wrong it should be on the front of the chamber and the vacuum feed coming of the vacuum line should be on the back of the vacuum chamber
Hey bud, tha KS for commenting. Not sure what you mean though, it's all plumbed in as per original lines when it had the original lines on and matches the plumbing diagram that I have. I did re route the line to not have to go over engine but other than that it all matches the diagram I got from workshop manual
@@TrackCraftPerformance in have a diagram direct from lr
Ah ok, not sure why mine would be backwards but everything works as it should and it has a strong vacuum so maybe my chamber was mounted backwards?
@@TrackCraftPerformance it could be
Just double checked lr drawings and each tube is going to the correct port so not sure why there are different drawings from LR, maybe facelift and pre facelift?