Trying to FIX: PAPER SHREDDER Running On & Overheating
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- Опубликовано: 11 фев 2020
- Hi, this 'trying to fix' video shows me attempting to fix a paper shredder which runs on after the paper has been shred and also overheats.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince. 
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hey vince, the reason your having a problem with that switch is because the nylon washer is missing between the clip and the arm that control the pressure switch your working with, replace this with a new washer and the issue will not return
First
@@FLCollection620 ?
Second!
Find a couple of washers to take up the slack on the shaft, then stick the retaining pin in. This shouldl keep the little leg straight making sure on it's way up it returns without getting stuck.
Jup, yes your right
That's exactly what I was thinking. A homemade washer made out of vinegar or cooking oil plastic containers. That's an easy to work with slippery plastic.
I've even use that type of plastic cut into strips and rolled up to make a bushing sleeve inside the wheels of a lawn dethatcher
And a new microswitch....
I imagine Vince lurking in a dark corner, waiting for some tech to fail :3
Lol
This is the perfect description of craft mastery. It take a thousand projects to collect the techniques in order to solve and then effectively repair almost anything. Bravo!
Can’t believe iv watched a 50 minuet video of a man fixing a shredder! and it was the highlight of my week 😂
Possibly use a small washer and then the cotter pin to shim that a bit. Thanks Vince...
Yes! See your own video vince, the lever must be kept in place. And also, Oil the knives before use by putting some oil on the first paper. This is normal daily use...
I agree a small washer under cotter pin should work.
Wow this is perfect. I was just looking for a My Mate VINCE video I hadn't seen to watch when my food gets her in a few minutes. Couldn't have come at a more perfect time. Thanks, Vince!
I love how diverse your repairs are, 1 video your repairing stereos, then tour fixing vacuums, game consoles etc it's my favourite thing about your channel! Very entertaining to watch and see how these every day items work 😃
Nice job, Vince. You are correct in that the capacitors and inductors on that board are for keeping motor noise out of the AC lines. The thermal cutout switch is probably on the motor itself. They are commonly connected in series at the start of the windings, usually wrapped in heat-resistant fiberglass sheathing and/or kapton tape or similar tubing. Many newer fan motors have a thermal _fuse_ attached in this way, and when they overheat and fail (usually due to hair and dust accumulating around the motor shaft) they just stop working alltogether and get thrown out, as they can be difficult to uncover and replace without destroying the delicate enamel-coated wires used for the windings.
I have used Wago connectors few years now and you are right they are amazing and very useful.
Oh my. I had the same issue with my shredder last week and as it stopped half way through a load and overheated I though I should send it to you. After about 2 hours of it being switched off at the wall it then worked again though. It's funny to see this video now, nice one Vince.
Where the pin and crank are pivoted there is an indentation for the spring to sit in. The coil of the spring fit around the shaft pushes out the paper sensing lever. Looking back at 6:43 it looks like this is the spring.
Great video 🤗 A small bit of info I learnt a long while ago is that shredder manufacturers say not to oil the cutters. Though they don't say why, I reckon this is because printer paper has a fine coating of clay for sharper prints. I suppose this clay could produce fine dust that would get trapped in the oil. That's why printer paper feels so smooth compared to regular paper.
Great effort there Vince what a tricky fix for something that seemed so simple at face value
Put a thin washer between the pin and a lever on that switch mechanism, to keep the lever a bit more straight. I think it just getting stuck to the wall.
After viewing your video, I attempted to fix my own shredder with the same problem and the same design. I'm not what you would call real handy, but I tore into it, cleaned up the mess inside, took some time to put it back together, but it worked like new! And I even had a part left over!!
maybe that wasn't a staple and it was a return spring for the lever
First
Jumper weather huh? It HAS been bloody cold recently!
Keep up the good work fella!
Hi Vince. Maybe motor got heat protection inside it? Also this white arm looks like it's need to be pushed away from that metal clip on the end. I repair same paper shredder in my company and 100% true about that grease - there is too much of it, everything was covered in paper dust even after one week of use. After couple of cleaning it's ok and amount of grease is perfect.
Nice fix vince. I’ve binned 2 shredders in the past as well!
I think you were correct way back at the beginning, it is supposed to run on for a second or two so the paper is ejected from the mechanism, this is usually done with a cam on the cutter shaft so the switch would remain pressed in until the cutter had done at least one rotation. Keep on fixing.
Nice fix Vince. Looks a little like the 'push lever (long arm)' could have the end shaved at an angle so it doesnt catch on the guard
Looking at the plastic bump above the actuator it had a return spring, as other have said it could have been what you thought was a staple.
vince maybe you could use a few small washers on the arm to push it in abit before you put the s clip on
The two Inductors and the capacitor is forming a differential mode EMI filter to avoid the injection of any EMI noise to the line.
We've got the same shredder, with the same problem. I've never got around to fixing it.
I might take it apart soon now I remember about it.
GG=
German Greetings :D
The reverse of the motor is pobably just a second spool in the motor.
And the overheating is propably just a thermo switch hidden inside the motor..
Reverse is changing the polarity from the anchor windings. 4 wires going into the motor. 2 wires into winding outside, 2 wires into winding anchor.
Nice fix! would not two washers make it more stable and less likely to clogging up?
Love your channel always entertaining!
I remember when paper shredders were cutting edge technology.
I almost shredded my hand in one at school cus I didn't know what it was
They still are, Hellooo!
Wait ... this one isn't ... I'm disappointed.
It's a universal motor (can work on AC and DC). You can reverse the direction by turning around EITHER the windings on the stator OR the rotor. The bimetal is attached to the motor.
Vince , i love these videos..They are oddly satisfying , and i like to do these things myself aswell... You are the proper repair man :)
I've got a fellows paper shredder. It too has lost its ability to detect paper being put in it and is on auto all the time. Just took it apart whilst watching your video and thought I'll have a go! Couldn't find what makes it detect the paper going inside it but I regreased all of the gears and it runs smoother now lol
what a relief when finally solved the issue.
Great video Vince and it's lovely to see a everydayish item being fixed. Never had this problem myself but I am very surprised this happened to you.
Notification on my Phone: MyMateVince fixing a shredder - that's my kind of trigger to fire up RUclips
Yes! A 55 minute video! Thanks!!!!
Cheers for this video mate, I just fixed my shredder because of this and its was my sensor A quick clean and check of connections and now its great.
👌 🙂👍
Those blue "capacitors" a MOVs (Metal Oxide Varistor), typically used for power surges, so that circuit looks like it does some power smoothing and protection. The big yellow thing is a film capacitor (for smoothing)
The motor probably has a thermistor inside so when it gets hot it shutdowns the motor.
zer0Bot Correct
Bi metallic switch :)
@@porkbap55 oops that's right, one similar to microwave ovens or fridges
No - they're capacitors, for snubbing RFI.
A motor wouldn't need MOVs.
They are capacitors ....
Maybe graphite powder as lubricant would work.
Mobin92. Graphite in its make up is carbon which is conductive. That’s why some membrane pads have graphite pads. So it would constantly mess with the switch turning it on and off at random or even completely leaving it on.
Vince, allow me to help you out mate. The problem is in the white push button switch box. The return strength of the button has worn away with use. Open the box and see if you can get a pair of needle nose pliers in enough to shorten the spring just a smidgen. This will allow your pusher to FULLy return to allow it to turn off. Moving to top switch helps because you are running it backwards causing the pusher to return to full return and so it is off. Again, the return throw of that button needs to be a tad stronger or/ "prouder". This should fix it next time - good till the motor burns out or you get a new shredder.
Vince, look at the end(tip/bottom) of that arm, it hangs up on the little step(groove for the paper)(min. 49). There is a groove in that frame for the arm to move freely. Since the arm is to sloppy, the end is getting stopped on that corner. Use a washer between the arm and cotter pin.
Look at when you poke in there with the exacto knife. minute 49.56.
The motor has an overtemp cutout switch on it that cuts it out if it gets too hot.
Also a thin washer would keep the little plastic arm more in line with the groove and should stop it from getting stuck.
was thinking the same thing
The spring inside the switch has stretched. You could fix it by taking 1 winding of the string but you are right if you take to much off. It will no longer click down. The coils and the cap are a suppression filter. The JY472M from what I can find is a safety capacitor. Which is designed to reduce Electromagnetic interference(EMI) and radio frequency interference(RFI) caused by the motor. I can't tell you for sure but at a guess there will be the equivalent of a thermostat on the motor. Which will ping apart when it gets hot and when it cools down it pings back shut.
Actually, since the spring passes through the contact arm, it pulls the arm down from underneath to make the switch close, and tightening it would make it pull down harder, not stop it from working.
I would shave a chamfer on the lower end furthest away from the pivot where it appears in 2D to be visibly catching on the paper guide slot.
Watch the end part of the video again, (when this reoccurs) where you realise the lever is sticking.
Enjoy your videos mate!!
I do hope you have been keeping the whole thing oiled too :)
There are special sheets you can get that you run through the shredder to oil it, or you just put some sewing machine oil in and run the shredder a couple of times.
"Across the line" (or X capacitor) means the capacitors can be connected between live and neutral
Well done mate.
If you look in the paper feed slot, there is the rectangle slot that the arm slots into. The arm is catching on the edge. If you widen the slot, maybe the arm will return easier.
The circuit with L1 L2 and the yellow capacitor is a mains filter (Seems to be a slight variation of a common-mode filter, which is to take switching noise out of the mains), then the switches are simply switching power to the AC motor, the two blue caps on the motor are just noise suppression capacitors on the motor. The motor will be a universal motor, and they can be quite noisy on the mains with the brushes/commutator. It'll also have a overheat switch, which I suspect might be a bi-metallic strip switch on top at the back of the motor (The black and metal thingy).
Your switch is faulty, even though you tested with the meter, it doesn't test it under load. Also I think you may be missing a little spring on the plastic paper detect lever, and that's why the switch struggles to turn it off, probably the internal spring in the switch weakened, and it's not switching off cleanly, and possibly burning the contacts.
The yellow and blue caps are special safety capacitors, commonly known as X capacitors and Y capacitors, they are designed to fail in a safe way across the mains, and not short out.
Under appreciated video fix!
I have an older version and it is terrible with the paper getting built up between the plastic barriers in the center and it looks like they didn't improve the design at all. Frequently have to take it apart to clear it out.
To me the sound at the end before it quit sounded to me on my setup like Electrical Sparking where the current was jumping directly between contacts in the motor before it could turn again. Would also explain the burn smell.
My mate Vince for president!
Adding a small washer on either side of the lever arm, would hold the lever true. The spring is strong enough as long as there is not too much load. hence the 6 sheet maximum.
Here in Canada I've seen that microswitch using a variety of applications even in dishwashers and what not. I remember having to replace one in a dishwasher and not really knowing how common they were I bought a replacement one from an appliance store and they way overcharged me.
I was wondering if perhaps a homemade washer made of slippery plastic what type used in vinegar or cooking oil containers placed between the sensor arm and not retaining metal clip might have help with the alignment so that it wouldn't fetch upon adjoining protrusions of the actual case?
Perhaps a little gooey Grease was also a culprit mixed in with paper fibres just wear that arm is catching up.
Well Vince, as I was watching this I was wondering how the Crazy Russian Hacker would fare in this repair video. He's constantly slashing and cutting himself accidentally when he's testing kitchen gadgets. He probably get one of the plasters on his fingers stuck in the shredder, LOL.
Or worse... Drop it into his lap while it's plugged in and get sack caught in it
Bwahaha
As usual I enjoyed this video as I enjoy taking apart stuff if I'm watching videos by myself or if I repair things that were given to me by friends.
Have a great day Vince and don't drop that thing on your lap! Well at least don't if it's plugged into the mains
Could there be a return mechanism on the lever for the button?
Hi Vince have a Auroa shredder same problem not cutting off
Hey vince. Would you like a fix a faulty ps3 controller?
That was a pretty cool fix
I have one the same..i bought a new micro switch..all the contacts inside the switch were burnt and it did not connect properly(when i took the switch apart) and it did not return to the off position weak return spring inside the micro switch..the new switch cured it straight away.The switches are real cheap quality on these.
I had a small manual one (one with a handle) a while back loved playing with the shredded paper.
You mean scissors?
@@og-ol-timer not scissors, go to amazon and search for "manual paper shredder" you'll see exactly what i meant.
😂 got it
If you haven’t tried baking soda and super glue, now is a good opportunity. You can build up the slot which the lever passes through so that it pushes the tip away from the hole it’s catching on the opposite side.
Is the switch high resistance under load? Bad contacts?
You can see the thermal cut out on the motor @40:05 its tied to the field windings with black wires going to it also that is a universal motor wich can run on AC orDC and is reviersed by changeing over the output from the field windings to the brushes, there the same type of motors used in corded power tools. The small pcb is an EMI filter the inductors an capactor filter noise from the motor and the resistor across the capactor is to discharge it so you dont get a shock from the plug pins when you unplug it.
Interesting. However I would not want to leave that connected for long periods with 240 volts going through a potentially faulty micro switch.
Tightening the spring inside the microswitch won't stop it from working. It pulls the contact arm up and down by passing through the middle of the arm from above to below.
Nice Repair
33 min in I noticed that it twisted means that it is binding strip rollers apart lube mounts for better results, all the best to you, PS, do what I said will reduce strain on the motor. 🤠
I wasn't happy when it was partially functional, but I am delighted that it's completely knackered - paraphrased.
It looks the end of arm of the switch is sometimes touching the metal cutting disk or the plastic frame. Probably you can put a washer and the end of the axis near the clip to keep the arm closer to the switch. The arm looks like bent outwards.
the best thing when bought new, disassemble the thingy and recast the plastic gears as backups for future modeling needs (preferably in metal /brass)
i think regular cleaning of the grease will be better than not, even if that may foul up with paper dust eventually.
Vince marvelous.
What about a small rubber band fixed to the lever on one side and on th other side to the holder of the micro switch?
I would use a washer between the arm and the switch
Looks like the lever is gagging up on the spindle because of the angle it’s sitting at, increasing the friction enough to hold it. Interesting. Thank you.
Vince the way your motor works is it has phases each wire is one phase. You can switch ANY two wires and the motor goes the opposite way. but if you switch two wires then switch one of those with the third one that was left alone you are back to the same rotation.
Capacitors are storing electricity, and charges out over time. (Essentially timing devices...)
That could be used to keep the motor running for a while. But obviously at decreasing power.
The duration is often determined by the amount of resistance in the circuit, that the capacitor has to discharge to...
Unless there is some kind of setup to feed it directly from the source while the capacitor has over a certain amount of charge left.
Which I don't think it is in this case, as it sounds like its slowing down gradually after the switch is no longer hit.
That's not whats happening in this circuit - the capacitors in this circuit are there to suppress spikes (EMI) and in conjunction with the inductors to suppress line noise...
I would have cleaned up the points inside the switch while it was open, pitting and piling on the points can cause a delay when they get hot. Also agree with the other comments there should be a nylon washer on the lever arm to align it with the groove in the casing.
The two inductors and capacitor are a typical noise suppressor circuit, the inductors like to pass low frequency but block high frequency transients or noise on the mains coming back down the line. Think of inductors as opposite to capacitors.
Capacitors block DC but pass AC, Inductors pass DC but try to block AC, obvious the inductors don't block the AC entirely otherwise the unit would not work at all. The Inductors block high frequency spikes more than they do 50Hz low frequency AC, the impedance increases with frequency. The typical noise filter has an inductor in series on each leg of the AC supply and the capacitor goes directly across the mains supply.
Did you remember to oil it, there is a product called dry lube for bicycle chain would work better.
WD40 sprayed on to sheets of paper and then shred it will lube the cutters
I never click so fast in all my life unless My Mate Vince is in the house. Let's go!
Excellent job =D I think replacing the microswitch would sort this without the adjustment of that plastic piece! It is not springing back outwards with the same force as a brand new switch! You can get replacement switches identical in size to the one in there btw! I have the exact same Shredder! And incidentally, I got a brand new one here to find a home for that is boxed never used (given to me recently).
I think you are right Chris, by trimming the pusher I have just taken up the weakness in the spring. I should have trimmed the switch plastic bit instead of the pusher which would have done the same thing. Then if the switch was replaced in the future it would be back to the original condition. Thank you :-)
Wow, that is a hell of a cheap shredder. Recent once do cross cut, which cuts stripes with a length of about 10mm length. I would not even try to waste time to fix this can opener one. :) However nice Video as always.
Probably the noisiest repair video you've made yet. It was still very entertaining!
The most Time he does the peep'ist videos... ^^
There is very little electronics in this, there are 3 switches and 6 components. There is no timer circuit. The inductors & yellow capacitor are for line filtering, the blue discs that are across the motor are for noise suppression (to remove EMF spikes). The 3rd switch is the thermal cutout on the motor.
I stripped down my parents shredder and the grease that was in the gears was really sticky and taken ages to clean it out it still overheats but goes on longer now
A shim might have solved the issue. Or simply file a slight part of the piece that touches the paper. I was getting caught. If you looks back on the video you can see it getting caught
Vince, while you have the shredder working, as well as you can. The OCD in me tells me that shredder is only good for arts and crafts to make streamers or some pasta. What would be an ideal shredder, is a cross cut.
It’s still not working correctly! Your earlier theory about needing a delay due to un-square paper was correct; you need to be able to run-on. This also removes the paper still in-blade after the run. This is exactly what my shedder does.
I wish you did more game consoles and less random electronics. Game consoles are what i subscribed for and every time i see a notification of a video of yours and i open it finding random stuff i am always a little disappointed. Anyway i wish you the best for your channel beacuse the way you do your videos is awesome.
Worked on a few of them myself. Bits of paper everywhere and paper dust cause many issues.
3 in 1 oil from time to time sprayed on the blades, worked wonders.
I have the exact same shredder with the same fault. I just assumed that a little bit of paper was caught in the trigger.
normally the automatic setting usually runs the paper shredder for 2-5 seconds after paper has passed through the switch before the shredder switches itself off for the cutters to clear themselves (bad design floor, as the cutters never clean themselves out). I would much rather a near enough instant cutout, because doing a load of shredding will soon give a stinking headache especially if it is going for 2-5 seconds ontop of the paper passing through, and you got a lot to shred. so done yourself a favour by getting rid of that feature.
Vince maybe you should show the guy that created vista install in 2 minutes a pointer on how to fix his printer, it also struggled!! lol
Those switch contacts are burnt and need cleaning inside the switch because the mains motor is still getting voltage when the switch is open as the contact are arcing because the contacts are not fully opening. The shredder does not have a delay.
in fact, the motor has a 3 wires connection, 2 of them are used to receive the 2 wires that we use in 240 v, the capacitor replace the 3rd wire, and it is been feed from one of our 240 v wires, the reverse action happens when we change where the capacitor is connected to the motor
I used to have similar shredder at home about 10 years ago. It was really unreliable because it was constantly overheating and shredding month worth of documents (which was smth like 20 papers) took 20 or more minutes since it overheated after 10 seconds and than i had to wait quite a while. I tried to clean and grease it on proper places but in the end i just threw it away and bought a new one (since i wasn't comfortable with device that contains tiny pieces of paper and overheats all the time). And even though i don't shread more than those 20 per month i'm happy with it since it's working all the time and it's not overheating (and i don't have to worry about the fire posibility all the time).
Edit: Also i'm really worried about that unit since all shredders should have a switch that will turn off the device once you pick it up from the container (so you cannot pick ot up running).
I also thank that yellow component next to the 2 inductors is a rectifier bridge to convert ac to dc which would make sense with the reverse but I could be wrong just my thoughts
No, it's a capacitor.
So is it all ac then? It looked similar to another video I watched on electronic repair schools Chanel a while ago now
Haven't watched yet, so gonna guess paper sensor, something real simple wich is a shame cos I no you like a challenge...I'm gonna do this on all your great vids, I'm gonna write my guess first...now off to watch it.