📖 Be the first in line to receive our Financial Freedom PDF e-book, which explains exactly how we have been able to arrange our life so that we can go cruising, and how YOU can do this too! ➜ bit.ly/FinancialFreedomPDF 📖 Get a free PDF download detailing over 3,500 knots & splices here ➜ bit.ly/knotsPDF If you enjoy our videos then consider joining our Patreon Crew! patreon.com/sailingbritaly You might think that $1 per month is nothing, but if 10% of our subscribers chose to pledge just $1 per month, it would be an absolute game changer for us and we could make LOTS more content for you! You get exclusive benefits by being a Patron, so sign up to join our wonderful community and help keep these videos coming. Thank you! Chris, Rossella & Emma 😁
p.s. If you don't want to get involved on Patreon, but you want us to make more videos, you can help us out by sharing this video! Under the video, on the right hand side (Next to the like button... 😉) you will see a button which says SHARE. If you click on that you will be able to share the video, and this is a huge help to us which doesn't cost you a penny. Thank you so much! ❤️
p.p.s. If any of you are craving seeing Emma again, we have a vlog coming on Sunday. Or it's visible on Patreon already with the early video access there. :-)
I'm refurbishing my own "little boat", (and I mean little!). I have a list of jobs to do, so searched RUclips for helpful videos - and isn't there a load of crap out there!! So I was very happy that I eventually found your channel, it's the best thing on RUclips for us DIY boaters. Great stuff, really informative and explained in a simple and helpful way. Thanks very much, and keep sailing ;-)
Incredible video, thanks. I researched this exact same job on the internet for days and became a virtual 'expert' and your procedure was exactly as I had planned. Your boatbuilding and camera work and presentation are quite superb. A masterclass in DIY.
I was weighing up the cost of getting 'the yard' to replace all the seacocks on my project boat. Just found your video and think I'll try it myself. Thank you for demystifying the process.
I'm Glad to hear that Matt. The detailed version of this video is over an hour long and has a lot more information. It may save you time in the long-run, so watching that is probably time well spent. Cheers, Chris
You are a very competent and diligent sailor. Please keep it up and don't let the haters get you down captain Nick and Major Alders.. if we can't treat you like a.king,please understand we are both vets and just trying to keep the old Irwin going!!
Thanks Chris for making these videos, I'm half way through replacing my volvo saildrive diaphragm and have a couple of seacocks to replace too over the next two weeks and have really appreciated having such an insight into both jobs.
We absolutely love your videos, and appreciate all the love, care, attention and effort you (as a family) obviously put into making them - we learn from each and every one. It doesn’t look at all easy! We’ve just signed up as patrons, it’s not much as we’re poor full time cruisers but hopefully every little helps. Keep up the great work!
Hi Cam and Tom! Thank you so much for joining our Patreon Crew! Making these videos is definitely not easy, but we do love it and we feel like we are making a positive contribution to the world. We're sure running your blog www.camandtom.com is also a lot of work, but we are certain that one day you will also be glad you put all the hours in that you are doing now. We wish you all the luck in the world and hopefully we'll share an anchorage one day so we can buy you a beer! Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Great video. Thanks for taking the time. I'm also very impressed you were able to film good shots with good lighting while working in such tight spaces!
Well done,, this was a brilliant video,i have to replace one of my seacocks and was dreading it,what a simple way of getting it done I never thought of doing this by grinding it from the bottom, thank you, and keep up the good work 😀
I always watch your videos. I watch all the sailing channels and I never miss yours because you’re always teaching and I want to learn so keep up the good work. Thumbs up 👍
You're very welcome Alex. The longer version of the video has extra info so you may find it helpful to watch that one before you start the job. Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma :-)
About to replace 2 through-hull assemblies and this helped a great deal to know what to expect, what fittings to choose and also how to go about the pro-active replacement of the original (1979 and really make me nervous) fittings. The long version will be watched again before I begin the job! Many Thanks!
Hi there, thank you! I don't know how easily you can get them in Canada, but one of our Patrons [thanks Greg!] brought Apollo Full Flange Sea Valves to our attention. I did my usual OCD online digging to see what they are like and they are probably the best ball valves money can buy (Flanged bronze body, chrome plated bronze ball, bronze valve stem, stainless handle) Might be worth a look before you tackle your job. Fair winds! Chris 👍
I watched the short version of this video then went down to my friend's boat and helped him remove the large 1 and 1/2 inch seacock. I did the grinding and he did all the grunting and banging from inside of the boat. It took me more than 90 seconds. Probably about 4-5 minutes, but my metal grinding disk is old and I was going carefully. Next step is to buy a replacement. Many thanks Chris
Hi Scott, I'm glad to hear the video helped. The detailed version covers a lot of extra detail which you or your friend might find useful so that might be worth watching: ruclips.net/video/9bV1rqqvw-k/видео.html It's a long one but you can just do what I do when I watch videos on RUclips: watch at 2x speed. You get the same info in half the time! Cheers, Chris 👍
Hi Chris, Your Video have taught me more about skin fittings and seacocks than anyone has for years. im doing all on Kedim at the moment and have been looking for the right supplier for them. Your right about ASAP. really helpful and will be spending money with them. I have just refurbished my blakes seacocks in the head and just the bolts to secure them to the hull are a FORTUNE. Fantastic seacocks but you pay the price to keep them. Thanks for another great Video. wait for the next one. Cheers and best wishes to you all. Tony.
Hi Tony, thank you very much for the feedback, it's very satisfying to know that we are helping others with our videos. Good luck with your boat work and fair winds! Chris 👍
Hi cheers from IRELAND, we are very greatfull for all your videos , learned so much from you , thank you very very much. Don’t worry about peoples questions too much...
Hi there! Thank you very much / Go raibh maith agat! Rossella and I both love the Emerald Isle and we would love to visit it together some time. We have a lot of family over there. Fair winds! Chris, Rosella & Emma 😊
Great video Chris, many thanks. We’re refitting a boat ourselves but have started with deck replacement and rigging adjustments. Before we launch, checking/replacing all the through hull fittings is at the top of the (seemingly endless) list of things yet to do. Your long video will be an important part of our guide! Fair winds. Best, Sophie
Hi Sophie, we're glad to hear that this will be helpful for you! We know the feeling with the endless to-do list... 😂😂😂 The important thing is to prioritise and as long as you put the most important items at the top (and revise the list regularly) you will be out sailing before you know it. The list will never be fully finished, but that's part of the fun of owning a boat! :-) Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊 p.s. Please share our videos with any ladies you know who like sailing... 99.3% of our viewers are male at the moment!
Great info! As far as the arrangement of the seacocks for the heads, would there be any concern of contamination with having the output and intake so close together?
Thank you! The work I did didn't alter that as the intake and outlet are located in the same place they were when built. You raise a good point though and the the marine WC outlet should always be aft of the inlet for this reason. Cheers, Chris 👍
Great job, it's on my radar either for the start of this season, or for next season. I'm leaning towards composite seacocks, but not 100" sure just yet - you've given me some more places to look while I do the research, so thank you!
Composite are good options: Trudesign are better than Forespar Marelon. Some googling will reveal why. Good luck with the job when you get to it. Cheers, Chris 👍
They are useful and I personally appreciate you taking the time to make these videos. Glad the camera survived at first I thought you’d smashed your hand into something and were on your way to casualty.
Hi there, this is the most awsome movie, including tips and trix on this most important operation. As always a good sence of humour helps a lot, especially when combined with knowledge and craftmanship. Helped and encouraged me a lot on my first exchange - although I have been sailing some decades in my own boats (including a Bavaria 32 2005). Greetings from south Sweden (onbord an Aphrodite 30).
Dude! Your videos are very informative and useful. These longer videos are amazing with explanations of why do certain things instead of just how to do them. I wish you lots of success with it.
Great video! All of the sea cocks on my 2001 beneteau 361 are shot. The raw water intake crumbled the first time I winterized. Same thing happened on my friend's beneteau 400 when I helped her winterize last weekend. I'm replacing all diy
It’s such a common problem Rich, we hope our videos help you do the job (we have a longer version of this video on our channel which goes into even more detail). Buon lavoro! Chris
Truly a great video, extremely useful for anyone who wants to face a similar job. I personally did it twice (the first one without experience and tutorials 😱 ..., many many years ago) the last time exactly like you! I totally share your indications and in addition I can confirm that I owned two American boats with composite thru-hulls: perfect after years and years. The European school is a bit different, even my latest excellent Hallberg Rassy 312 sailboat has bronze thru-hulls. Bravo, great job 👍
Thank you Mauro, we hope that this helps other boat owners get their boats shipshape without breaking the bank. Composite through-hulls are very valid (I especially like Tru-Design), but they were too big to fit underneath our galley, and I wanted to use the same throughout the boat, so this excluded their use. The Hallberg Rassy 312 is a beautiful boat. Buon vento! Chris 👍
Cheers Will. That camera broke for good a few months down the line but we have bought another one. Fingers crossed it will last as filming on a boat is very tough on electronics. Fair winds, Chris 👍
good job on description and details. helpful as I am now changing my fittings. going with composite trudesign, hope I am making a good choice. From what I've been reading they are quite reliable
My pleasure! Trudesign are excellent and if they would have been small enough to fit under our galley then I may well have chosen them myself. As it was, I didn't want to mix & match, so I went DZR throughout. Chris
Thanks Chris!! I trully like this viedo. In fact a was a bit reluctant to do de job myself (I have to replace all seacocks in our SO 45DS) but after your great video and explanation, I'm now confident enouth to carry on with it.
I’m glad to hear that! I made a longer version if this video with even more detail so check that out before you do the job (it’s linked in the description). Cheers, Chris 👍
Hi there. I am just about to undertake replacement of the saildrive seal, following your great online blog. Ordered all parts from a Volvo dealer who sent a stainless steal stopcock, and two non CR brass connections. Which I think should be returned following your guidance. Where did you purchase yours from as I can’t seam to find anyone who can supply theses thanks Roy Keep up the excellent informative and good viewing videos.
Hi Roy, apologies for the delay - we can't keep up with comments on here these days. I bought ours here: www.yachtboatparts.com/volvo-penta-saildrive-seacock-ball-valve--bronze-dzr-stainless-7204-p.asp We offer technical help and have a private messaging service on Patreon, which can be accessed for just $1 per month. We wouldn't be still making these videos if it wasn't for our Patrons. Best regards, Chris
Nice job Chris. I have done it a couple of times before both with brass and composite Thruhull, and I must say the only reason not to use composite as you mentioned is space. They are generally bigger, but great quality and easy to work with.
Probably several have already asked… but would it be impossible to (on a monohull) just have one bigger inlet, and than a required amount of T- or Y-connecters? And for the outlet as well? Grey water can effectively rinse out the black water, and the growth on the outside would be more located to one area. With one in and one out, it would make sense to have bigger dimensions and put the money in best (desired) quality.
Hi , I’ve followed your advice and ordered from asap and I’m going to use locktite 572 as a thread sealant , I’m just wondering if when you apply the sealant to the skin fitting and screw the ball valve down onto it if there is a risk of the sealant coming up and actually fouling the ball valve ? The top of the thread is right up against the valve . Rob
Thanks for the video. I got a bit lost on step 4... what is the extra (£2) backing nut you mentioned? Is it just like a locking nut you can use to set the orientation of the seacock itself?
Hi thanks for this really useful. Is it necessary to let the sealant go off overnight. I'm using Sikaflex 591 : if I did the inlet in the morning and sealed it in by the same evening could I not fitting the valve on? It quotes a 2-4 day full cure time anyway??
What a great video, this is a job still to be done on our Westerly so it’s a great help. Also we have subscribed to your channel to work through your other videos. Thanks fella!
Maybe a year later, but used your video when renewing my hull fittings this week. So it's not gone unused. Thanks for the ideas and info. Regards from Norway
Hi Frank, this was my intention when I made this video and I hope that 5 years from now people will still be referring back to it. Well done for doing this very important job and thank you for taking the time to give me your feedback. Best regards, Chris 👍
Thomas Vartabedian Our pleasure Thomas, we are making lots of helpful videos so subscribe and enable notifications if you haven't already. Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 🙂
Good video Chris and well worth watching. I changed my water inlet seacock in April this year as it snapped off in my hand while I was removing the hose. Luckily I was out of the water at the time. I checked my other 4 and they seemed ok, but still worried about them. They are in better condition than yours to be honest, so next time she is out of the water I plan to change them all.
HI Lee, we're glad you are finding these videos useful and hopefully they will help you with your future boat work. Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
It is very good (This was the first time I've ever used it). The CT1 was exceptional too. It's such a pleasure to have a sealant like that come off your fingers easily whilst it's wet. If you watch their promotional videos it's very good stuff. I plan on carrying a box of it with us when we sail over the horizon... Fair winds! Chris 👍
Yes, I've used CT1 before - it's good stuff. We tend to carry a tube or two of one of the modern sealants/adhesives. Serious Stuff, or Sticks like.. are both very good as well. So much easier to use than Sikaflex and much more effective than old style silicone/mastik sealants.
I have no intention of ever doing this project myself. But the knowledge from your video will allow me to properly inspect my seacocks to some degree and check the work of a mechanic with a much higher level of certainty . ( I feel it is necessary, when communicating with a Brit, to use the term " properly" or "proper" at least once.
Hi Robert, we're glad this video was useful for you in that respect. You can never have too much knowledge so it definitely makes sense to watch videos like this even if you have no intention of carrying out the work yourself. That way you can check that the work is done "properly". 😉 Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 👍
Thanks Per, there is a detailed version of this video with lots of extra information so check that out if you'll be doing this job yourself. Cheers, Chris 👍
Great video; about to do this job on my trapper 300. Fortunately it still has the original Blakes seacocks,although the bronze bolts are totally shot. The seacocks themselves seem ok and I shall be reconditioning them with grinding paste and replacing the thru hull bolts. Very clear video and definitely worthy of subscribing to. I’m still undecided about using backing plates altho’ the original plywood ones had compressed over the years.
Blakes are the bees knees. I'm not a fan of ply backing plates. G10 is an option, or if the hull is thick enough you may be able to do without them... Cheers, Chris 👍
Sailing Britaly Thanx for the tip about G10. That is similar, but not the same as Tuffnol, which I happen to have and was thinking about using as backing plate material. It has excellent qualities as its extremely hard and wont compress or delaminate. As the Blakes seacocks have thru hull bolt fittings I think backing plates are pretty much a necessity to ensure they sit flush to the inside of the hull. I’m sitting this year out sailing my Trapper, which gives me a great opportunity to address these kind of issues. Look forward to catching up with more of your vids.
hi Chris. As usual all very good tips. :) Also worth noting use of bronze/brass skin fittings on aluminium (even 5083) hulled yachts like one of mine is is a seriously big no no. Always use 316 inox. Result could be galvanic corrosion ending up with the fitting being kicked out with a corroded ring around the fitting. Im also very wary of plastic skin fittings below the waterline too when new are great but over time can end up becoming extremely brittle. I dont see the point of painted steel handles either, which, over time corrode and seize. They seize on an immersion tank in the house, never mind a yacht floating on the salty sea. Always worth carrying some wooden bungs of various sizes (or even fresh carrots) plus a lump hammer in case of skin fitting failure. Also I have found that PU40 Marine Sealant at Toolstation is nice for a sealant. Only £4 or so a tube. Used it to seal the keelbolts holes on my beneteau a few years ago. Still floating.
Hi David, I have also heard very good things about PU40. Here are the datasheets for that and CT1: tecnic.everbuild.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Puraflex-40-SDS-v6.pdf www.ct1ltd.com/wp-content/uploads/bsk-pdf-manager/2016/11/ct1_product_info_sheet_10-03-2015.pdf PU40 is subject to more shrinkage on cure (10% vs 3%) and is not quite as strong as CT1 (1.5 Mpa vs 2.65 Mpa) but I think it is a very valid product. For comparison, 3M 5200 has a strength of 7.0 Mpa, which although desirable in a few applications, in my opinion is far too strong to use on skin fittings. You risk ripping the laminate apart if you ever have to take them out. I have heard of many cases of Sikaflex not being so good, which is why I didn't use it on our boat (as well as the problem with the cold temperatures when I did this job). I totally agree that Aluminium boats have their own unique requirements to avoid problems with galvanic corrosion. Fair winds! Chris 👍
Domestic household fittings usually fail because of limescale, and some really cheap, poorly made metal parts. Electrolysis is a nightmare on aluminium (and carbon fibre layups), and catches a lot of people out - aluminium rudder stocks in particular. I would favour reinforced nylon for the reasons above, but they're no panacea.
Nice job on the video. Glad you didn't bash the camera into jetsam! Those old fittings looked like trash. When you put the skin fitting in, I question putting any sealant on any part that is inside the hull like at 15:11. The outside flange is what is keeping water out. The extra sealant will just make it harder to remove.
Thanks John, it was a relief to get the camera fixed. I had resigned myself to having to buy a new touchscreen but fortunately I didn't even need to do that. Rossella would have gone bananas (I always break things, whereas she could own a piece of equipment for 50 years and it wouldn't have so much as a scratch on it 😂) As for the sealant you are correct in what you are saying, but belt and braces doesn't hurt here, as long as the correct kind of sealant is used. I have seen people bed skin fittings, including the threads in great big gloops of 5200, with a very thin hull laminate, and I wouldn't want to be the one to remove these in the future... CT1 sealant adheres much less aggressively (26 kg/cm² for CT1, vs 70 kg/cm² for 3M 5200), so it won't be a problem. Fair winds! Chris 👍
To me it’s a myth that one can’t get marine sealant off, I have had no trouble removing sealed nuts and then cutting the dry sealant. Even fairly young sealant. Every single piece of 27 year old sealant on my boat was found to be dead and powdery. We are 90% way through resealing and replacing every bolt and fitting.
Thanks for making this great video - I used your method to remove and replace a seized valve/throughhull. Boat is now back in the water and leak free. Don't think I'd have been brave enough to apply an angle grinder to my boat if I hadn't see you do it first! :-)
Yes it was enough for us, but we didn’t have much left over. I replaced 8 through-hull assemblies and replaced the plastic saildrive ball valve with a DZR valve. A second bottle would have been a useful addition for the boat’s tool kit.
What do you think about the heavy duty nylon seacocks? They are used in other industrial areas as conduit caps, plumbing, etc. They are extremely durable, and no corrosion ever. Is there a down side to them?
Hi there, this just came up elsewhere so here is the copy and pasted reply: "I agree regarding composite through-hulls, but I have owned boats with Marelon ball valved and the stem felt weak to me when any resistance was encountered (friction between the ball and valve caused by marine growth) while operating the valves. I have also heard several stories like this: mysailingfix.com/2017/07/28/thru-hull-failure/ I am yet to hear a single report of problems with TruDesign So I would choose TruDesign instead. If anyone has heard of a TruDesign failure please share it." Cheers, Chris
@@SailingBritaly thanks Chris, now that you mention it that would seem to be a weak point, where the most load and force is under use. Maybe the ball valve and handle too.
Thank you Chris for this high quality video! Your camera work is outstanding! I am about to do the same work on our Beneteau Oceanis 45 next week. I have left the boat for a short stop-over 350 miles from where I leave, and now I don't remember if my skin fittings are made of composite or brass. I have some videos I took indicating that actual corroded valve is fitted to relatively clean, black, threaded stem, protruding from the hull. But just by the look I cannot tell. Would it be possible that Beneteau used composite skin fittings and then fitted those with cheap brass valves? Any Beneteau owners to comment on this?
Really good video. The problem with zink in brass can not be stressed enough! But nail polish remover is not only acetone, it usually also contain oil (for skin protectin) so it is not suited for degreasing before painting or gluing.
![DIY Seacock Replacement (Detailed Version) | ⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵ [Boat Work]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9bV1rqqvw-k/mqdefault.jpg)
![DIY Seacock Replacement (Detailed Version) | ⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵ [Boat Work]](/img/tr.png)
![Saildrive Diaphragm Replacement | ⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵ [Boat Work]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/o_Bv7_tAOY4/mqdefault.jpg)
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p.s. If you don't want to get involved on Patreon, but you want us to make more videos, you can help us out by sharing this video! Under the video, on the right hand side (Next to the like button... 😉) you will see a button which says SHARE. If you click on that you will be able to share the video, and this is a huge help to us which doesn't cost you a penny. Thank you so much! ❤️
p.p.s. If any of you are craving seeing Emma again, we have a vlog coming on Sunday. Or it's visible on Patreon already with the early video access there. :-)
Great stuff mate, you're the only one I trust to get the right information on doing the most important jobs that may save lives
I'm refurbishing my own "little boat", (and I mean little!). I have a list of jobs to do, so searched RUclips for helpful videos - and isn't there a load of crap out there!! So I was very happy that I eventually found your channel, it's the best thing on RUclips for us DIY boaters. Great stuff, really informative and explained in a simple and helpful way. Thanks very much, and keep sailing ;-)
Incredible video, thanks. I researched this exact same job on the internet for days and became a virtual 'expert' and your procedure was exactly as I had planned. Your boatbuilding and camera work and presentation are quite superb. A masterclass in DIY.
Thank you very much indeed. Cheers and God bless, Chris
I was weighing up the cost of getting 'the yard' to replace all the seacocks on my project boat. Just found your video and think I'll try it myself. Thank you for demystifying the process.
I'm Glad to hear that Matt. The detailed version of this video is over an hour long and has a lot more information. It may save you time in the long-run, so watching that is probably time well spent. Cheers, Chris
@@SailingBritaly Excellent. Bookmarked!
You are a very competent and diligent sailor. Please keep it up and don't let the haters get you down captain Nick and Major Alders.. if we can't treat you like a.king,please understand we are both vets and just trying to keep the old Irwin going!!
Cheers Nick, and a salute from an old ally. Chris 👍
Thanks Chris for making these videos, I'm half way through replacing my volvo saildrive diaphragm and have a couple of seacocks to replace too over the next two weeks and have really appreciated having such an insight into both jobs.
You're very welcome, good luck with your jobs. Chris 👍
I have to tell you I am extremely happy I found these videos, I learned quite a bit from them. Cheers mate, full sails.
I’m glad you found them helpful Patrick. Fair winds, Chris
We absolutely love your videos, and appreciate all the love, care, attention and effort you (as a family) obviously put into making them - we learn from each and every one. It doesn’t look at all easy! We’ve just signed up as patrons, it’s not much as we’re poor full time cruisers but hopefully every little helps. Keep up the great work!
Hi Cam and Tom! Thank you so much for joining our Patreon Crew! Making these videos is definitely not easy, but we do love it and we feel like we are making a positive contribution to the world. We're sure running your blog www.camandtom.com is also a lot of work, but we are certain that one day you will also be glad you put all the hours in that you are doing now. We wish you all the luck in the world and hopefully we'll share an anchorage one day so we can buy you a beer! Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Liked and bookmarked.👍 most informative sailing channel on RUclips.
That is a huge compliment coming from a RUclips megastar such as you Paul! Thank you 🙏👍
Excellent! Thank you for documenting, both short and long versions. This is critical stuff!
Really good video. Thanks for posting about something so important that many people don't pay enough attention to. You could be saving lives.
Thank you Dave, we hope that we can help others stay safe with videos like this. Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Great video. Thanks for taking the time. I'm also very impressed you were able to film good shots with good lighting while working in such tight spaces!
You’re welcome! Chris 👍
Well done,, this was a brilliant video,i have to replace one of my seacocks and was dreading it,what a simple way of getting it done I never thought of doing this by grinding it from the bottom, thank you, and keep up the good work 😀
As usual, you did a great job. My wife and I both really appreciate the explanations in your DIY projects.
Thank you for the feedback Wayne. 😊 I'm surprised your wife watches this stuff so thank her on my behalf! Cheers, Chris 👍
Very useful! The angles you shoot from help to show what you're explaining! Thanks
My pleasure. 😊
I always watch your videos. I watch all the sailing channels and I never miss yours because you’re always teaching and I want to learn so keep up the good work. Thumbs up 👍
Thank you very much! Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Thank you for making and posting. Very helpful. I now need to replace all my boat's seacocks.
You're very welcome Alex. The longer version of the video has extra info so you may find it helpful to watch that one before you start the job. Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma :-)
Thank you for sharing ! Your videos will help me to complete the job this weekend...
You're very welcome Sébastien, I hope the job went smoothly for you! Best regards, Chris 👍
About to replace 2 through-hull assemblies and this helped a great deal to know what to expect, what fittings to choose and also how to go about the pro-active replacement of the original (1979 and really make me nervous) fittings. The long version will be watched again before I begin the job! Many Thanks!
Hi there, thank you! I don't know how easily you can get them in Canada, but one of our Patrons [thanks Greg!] brought Apollo Full Flange Sea Valves to our attention. I did my usual OCD online digging to see what they are like and they are probably the best ball valves money can buy (Flanged bronze body, chrome plated bronze ball, bronze valve stem, stainless handle) Might be worth a look before you tackle your job. Fair winds! Chris 👍
Thanks Chris, I will check them out!
👍
I watched the short version of this video then went down to my friend's boat and helped him remove the large 1 and 1/2 inch seacock. I did the grinding and he did all the grunting and banging from inside of the boat. It took me more than 90 seconds. Probably about 4-5 minutes, but my metal grinding disk is old and I was going carefully. Next step is to buy a replacement. Many thanks Chris
Hi Scott, I'm glad to hear the video helped. The detailed version covers a lot of extra detail which you or your friend might find useful so that might be worth watching:
ruclips.net/video/9bV1rqqvw-k/видео.html
It's a long one but you can just do what I do when I watch videos on RUclips: watch at 2x speed. You get the same info in half the time! Cheers, Chris 👍
Thank you for taking the time to do such detailed and informative videos!
Hi JD, you are very welcome, thank you for your comment! Fair winds, Chris 👍
Love your video. Excellent and professional well done.
Nice educational video, how everything is explained. Thank you for this. I have to do this job on my own sailboat. Greetings Erik
Hi Chris, Your Video have taught me more about skin fittings and seacocks than anyone has for years. im doing all on Kedim at the moment and have been looking for the right supplier for them. Your right about ASAP. really helpful and will be spending money with them. I have just refurbished my blakes seacocks in the head and just the bolts to secure them to the hull are a FORTUNE. Fantastic seacocks but you pay the price to keep them. Thanks for another great Video. wait for the next one. Cheers and best wishes to you all. Tony.
Hi Tony, thank you very much for the feedback, it's very satisfying to know that we are helping others with our videos. Good luck with your boat work and fair winds! Chris 👍
I am about to change our engine intake seacock and this is incredibly useful! Thank you for making it.
Hi cheers from IRELAND, we are very greatfull for all your videos , learned so much from you , thank you very very much.
Don’t worry about peoples questions too much...
Hi there! Thank you very much / Go raibh maith agat! Rossella and I both love the Emerald Isle and we would love to visit it together some time. We have a lot of family over there. Fair winds! Chris, Rosella & Emma 😊
Thank you for your excellent guide to removing sea clocks… we have a damaged Blake’s to remove.
Great video Chris, many thanks. We’re refitting a boat ourselves but have started with deck replacement and rigging adjustments. Before we launch, checking/replacing all the through hull fittings is at the top of the (seemingly endless) list of things yet to do. Your long video will be an important part of our guide! Fair winds. Best, Sophie
Hi Sophie, we're glad to hear that this will be helpful for you! We know the feeling with the endless to-do list... 😂😂😂 The important thing is to prioritise and as long as you put the most important items at the top (and revise the list regularly) you will be out sailing before you know it. The list will never be fully finished, but that's part of the fun of owning a boat! :-) Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
p.s. Please share our videos with any ladies you know who like sailing... 99.3% of our viewers are male at the moment!
Great videos and clear reasoning behind choices the aviation training is obvious well done keep it up
Thank you :-)
Hi Chris. Great videos. Have you heard of composite skin fittings and seacocks? Do you know if they are any good?
I am about to do the same job. Very informative, Thank You!
Our pleasure Patrick! Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Me too, top hat 25 footer.
Great info! As far as the arrangement of the seacocks for the heads, would there be any concern of contamination with having the output and intake so close together?
Thank you! The work I did didn't alter that as the intake and outlet are located in the same place they were when built. You raise a good point though and the the marine WC outlet should always be aft of the inlet for this reason. Cheers, Chris 👍
Great job, it's on my radar either for the start of this season, or for next season. I'm leaning towards composite seacocks, but not 100" sure just yet - you've given me some more places to look while I do the research, so thank you!
Composite are good options: Trudesign are better than Forespar Marelon. Some googling will reveal why. Good luck with the job when you get to it. Cheers, Chris 👍
They are useful and I personally appreciate you taking the time to make these videos.
Glad the camera survived at first I thought you’d smashed your hand into something and were on your way to casualty.
Thank you for the feedback! The camera was a relief. It wasn't long ago I dropped an action cam into the sea... Doh! 😂 Fair winds! Chris 👍
Yes, I enjoy your instructional videos very much.
Thank you Michael. Chris 😊
Thanks for the short version. Re: your exasperation with hitting your camera - been there on DIY projects. Happy no permanent damage:)
Yes it was a lucky escape not having to buy a new touch screen or camera. Phew! Cheers, Chris 👍
Hi there, this is the most awsome movie, including tips and trix on this most important operation. As always a good sence of humour helps a lot, especially when combined with knowledge and craftmanship. Helped and encouraged me a lot on my first exchange - although I have been sailing some decades in my own boats (including a Bavaria 32 2005). Greetings from south Sweden (onbord an Aphrodite 30).
Tack så mycket Hans! Oh to be in Sweden now: One of the only countries to have stayed somewhere approaching sanity over the last year... Chris
Just what I was looking for. Will be looking at your other videos
I’m glad this was helpful Rob, welcome aboard! Chris 🌅⛵️
@@SailingBritaly Thanks. Looked at some of your other videos. Really useful tips. You have a new subscriber. Thanks for taking the time.
You are making great videos! Please keep it going!
Thank you Martin 👍
Great stuff! One of the best DIY sailboat videos in youtube.Keep on !
Thank you Heikki! 👍
Dude! Your videos are very informative and useful. These longer videos are amazing with explanations of why do certain things instead of just how to do them. I wish you lots of success with it.
Thank you Milton! We love helping people so subscribe for more helpful videos like this. Fair winds! Chris
👍
Great video! All of the sea cocks on my 2001 beneteau 361 are shot. The raw water intake crumbled the first time I winterized. Same thing happened on my friend's beneteau 400 when I helped her winterize last weekend. I'm replacing all diy
It’s such a common problem Rich, we hope our videos help you do the job (we have a longer version of this video on our channel which goes into even more detail). Buon lavoro! Chris
Truly a great video, extremely useful for anyone who wants to face a similar job. I personally did it twice (the first one without experience and tutorials 😱 ..., many many years ago) the last time exactly like you! I totally share your indications and in addition I can confirm that I owned two American boats with composite thru-hulls: perfect after years and years. The European school is a bit different, even my latest excellent Hallberg Rassy 312 sailboat has bronze thru-hulls. Bravo, great job 👍
Thank you Mauro, we hope that this helps other boat owners get their boats shipshape without breaking the bank. Composite through-hulls are very valid (I especially like Tru-Design), but they were too big to fit underneath our galley, and I wanted to use the same throughout the boat, so this excluded their use. The Hallberg Rassy 312 is a beautiful boat. Buon vento! Chris 👍
@@SailingBritaly Grazie mille... 😘
once again, very usefull. keep on doing and good to see that the cam is still working
Cheers Will 👍
Cheers Will. That camera broke for good a few months down the line but we have bought another one. Fingers crossed it will last as filming on a boat is very tough on electronics. Fair winds, Chris 👍
These videos are helpful. I enjoy the refit content. Thanks. 👍
Our pleasure James. Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 🙂
good job on description and details. helpful as I am now changing my fittings. going with composite trudesign, hope I am making a good choice. From what I've been reading they are quite reliable
My pleasure! Trudesign are excellent and if they would have been small enough to fit under our galley then I may well have chosen them myself. As it was, I didn't want to mix & match, so I went DZR throughout. Chris
Thanks Chris!! I trully like this viedo. In fact a was a bit reluctant to do de job myself (I have to replace all seacocks in our SO 45DS) but after your great video and explanation, I'm now confident enouth to carry on with it.
I’m glad to hear that! I made a longer version if this video with even more detail so check that out before you do the job (it’s linked in the description). Cheers, Chris 👍
Hi there. I am just about to undertake replacement of the saildrive seal, following your great online blog. Ordered all parts from a Volvo dealer who sent a stainless steal stopcock, and two non CR brass connections. Which I think should be returned following your guidance. Where did you purchase yours from as I can’t seam to find anyone who can supply theses thanks
Roy
Keep up the excellent informative and good viewing videos.
Hi Roy, apologies for the delay - we can't keep up with comments on here these days. I bought ours here: www.yachtboatparts.com/volvo-penta-saildrive-seacock-ball-valve--bronze-dzr-stainless-7204-p.asp We offer technical help and have a private messaging service on Patreon, which can be accessed for just $1 per month. We wouldn't be still making these videos if it wasn't for our Patrons. Best regards, Chris
Nice job Chris. I have done it a couple of times before both with brass and composite Thruhull, and I must say the only reason not to use composite as you mentioned is space. They are generally bigger, but great quality and easy to work with.
HI there, the Trudesign look fantastic and if I had room then I wouldn't hesitate to go for those. Cheers, Chris 👍
Very informative ,detailed and easdy to understand 👍🙏🏻
🙏👍
Probably several have already asked… but would it be impossible to (on a monohull) just have one bigger inlet, and than a required amount of T- or Y-connecters? And for the outlet as well? Grey water can effectively rinse out the black water, and the growth on the outside would be more located to one area. With one in and one out, it would make sense to have bigger dimensions and put the money in best (desired) quality.
Hi ,
I’ve followed your advice and ordered from asap and I’m going to use locktite 572 as a thread sealant , I’m just wondering if when you apply the sealant to the skin fitting and screw the ball valve down onto it if there is a risk of the sealant coming up and actually fouling the ball valve ? The top of the thread is right up against the valve .
Rob
Thanks for the video. I got a bit lost on step 4... what is the extra (£2) backing nut you mentioned? Is it just like a locking nut you can use to set the orientation of the seacock itself?
Hi there, yes they are just backing nuts. Not essential but they do make for a more sturdy set up. Cheers, Chris
Excellent job mate, your boat looks in very good condition. Question, how is the teak attached to the deck?
Hi thanks for this really useful. Is it necessary to let the sealant go off overnight. I'm using Sikaflex 591 : if I did the inlet in the morning and sealed it in by the same evening could I not fitting the valve on? It quotes a 2-4 day full cure time anyway??
Dude this video is super instructing! extremely good job, thank you so much!
My pleasure, subscribe for more! 😉Cheers, Chris 👍
What a great video, this is a job still to be done on our Westerly so it’s a great help. Also we have subscribed to your channel to work through your other videos. Thanks fella!
I’m glad you found this helpful - welcome aboard! Chris 👍
Looked this up to understand why rv Sarsia sank in Birkenhead. Now I know. Thanks!
Loving the videos. The in depth explanation is fantastic. Definitely keep up the great work!
Hi Matt, thank you for the feedback, it is much appreciated. Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Maybe a year later, but used your video when renewing my hull fittings this week. So it's not gone unused. Thanks for the ideas and info. Regards from Norway
Hi Frank, this was my intention when I made this video and I hope that 5 years from now people will still be referring back to it. Well done for doing this very important job and thank you for taking the time to give me your feedback. Best regards, Chris 👍
Thank for making the video I new to boating learning is so very important.
Thomas Vartabedian Our pleasure Thomas, we are making lots of helpful videos so subscribe and enable notifications if you haven't already. Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 🙂
Good video Chris and well worth watching. I changed my water inlet seacock in April this year as it snapped off in my hand while I was removing the hose. Luckily I was out of the water at the time. I checked my other 4 and they seemed ok, but still worried about them. They are in better condition than yours to be honest, so next time she is out of the water I plan to change them all.
HI Lee, we're glad you are finding these videos useful and hopefully they will help you with your future boat work. Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Another great job and another big thumbs up from me! Thanks again.
Thank you very much. 👍 Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Multisolve is good stuff. Makes cleaning up sealants so much easier. Not many people seem to be aware of it though.
It is very good (This was the first time I've ever used it). The CT1 was exceptional too. It's such a pleasure to have a sealant like that come off your fingers easily whilst it's wet. If you watch their promotional videos it's very good stuff. I plan on carrying a box of it with us when we sail over the horizon... Fair winds! Chris 👍
Yes, I've used CT1 before - it's good stuff. We tend to carry a tube or two of one of the modern sealants/adhesives. Serious Stuff, or Sticks like.. are both very good as well. So much easier to use than Sikaflex and much more effective than old style silicone/mastik sealants.
I have no intention of ever doing this project myself. But the knowledge from your video will allow me to properly inspect my seacocks to some degree and check the work of a mechanic with a much higher level of certainty . ( I feel it is necessary, when communicating with a Brit, to use the term " properly" or "proper" at least once.
Hi Robert, we're glad this video was useful for you in that respect. You can never have too much knowledge so it definitely makes sense to watch videos like this even if you have no intention of carrying out the work yourself. That way you can check that the work is done "properly". 😉 Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 👍
Great video!! Thank´s for all information. It will help me alot with my own project. Please continue! I´ll love it.
Thanks Per, there is a detailed version of this video with lots of extra information so check that out if you'll be doing this job yourself. Cheers, Chris 👍
Very informative and also entertaining!
Thank you! Chris 👍
Great video; about to do this job on my trapper 300. Fortunately it still has the original Blakes seacocks,although the bronze bolts are totally shot. The seacocks themselves seem ok and I shall be reconditioning them with grinding paste and replacing the thru hull bolts. Very clear video and definitely worthy of subscribing to. I’m still undecided about using backing plates altho’ the original plywood ones had compressed over the years.
Blakes are the bees knees. I'm not a fan of ply backing plates. G10 is an option, or if the hull is thick enough you may be able to do without them... Cheers, Chris 👍
Sailing Britaly Thanx for the tip about G10. That is similar, but not the same as Tuffnol, which I happen to have and was thinking about using as backing plate material. It has excellent qualities as its extremely hard and wont compress or delaminate. As the Blakes seacocks have thru hull bolt fittings I think backing plates are pretty much a necessity to ensure they sit flush to the inside of the hull. I’m sitting this year out sailing my Trapper, which gives me a great opportunity to address these kind of issues. Look forward to catching up with more of your vids.
brilliant video. Thank you!
Very useful, especially information about DZR brass.
Thank you for taking the time to comment. Chris
hi Chris. As usual all very good tips. :) Also worth noting use of bronze/brass skin fittings on aluminium (even 5083) hulled yachts like one of mine is is a seriously big no no. Always use 316 inox. Result could be galvanic corrosion ending up with the fitting being kicked out with a corroded ring around the fitting. Im also very wary of plastic skin fittings below the waterline too when new are great but over time can end up becoming extremely brittle. I dont see the point of painted steel handles either, which, over time corrode and seize. They seize on an immersion tank in the house, never mind a yacht floating on the salty sea. Always worth carrying some wooden bungs of various sizes (or even fresh carrots) plus a lump hammer in case of skin fitting failure. Also I have found that PU40 Marine Sealant at Toolstation is nice for a sealant. Only £4 or so a tube. Used it to seal the keelbolts holes on my beneteau a few years ago. Still floating.
Hi David, I have also heard very good things about PU40. Here are the datasheets for that and CT1:
tecnic.everbuild.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Puraflex-40-SDS-v6.pdf
www.ct1ltd.com/wp-content/uploads/bsk-pdf-manager/2016/11/ct1_product_info_sheet_10-03-2015.pdf
PU40 is subject to more shrinkage on cure (10% vs 3%) and is not quite as strong as CT1 (1.5 Mpa vs 2.65 Mpa) but I think it is a very valid product. For comparison, 3M 5200 has a strength of 7.0 Mpa, which although desirable in a few applications, in my opinion is far too strong to use on skin fittings. You risk ripping the laminate apart if you ever have to take them out. I have heard of many cases of Sikaflex not being so good, which is why I didn't use it on our boat (as well as the problem with the cold temperatures when I did this job). I totally agree that Aluminium boats have their own unique requirements to avoid problems with galvanic corrosion. Fair winds! Chris 👍
Domestic household fittings usually fail because of limescale, and some really cheap, poorly made metal parts. Electrolysis is a nightmare on aluminium (and carbon fibre layups), and catches a lot of people out - aluminium rudder stocks in particular. I would favour reinforced nylon for the reasons above, but they're no panacea.
Thank you! Very helpful
Super helpful and informative. Thank you!!!
Our pleasure Andrew - thank you for the thank you! Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 🙂
Nice job on the video. Glad you didn't bash the camera into jetsam!
Those old fittings looked like trash.
When you put the skin fitting in, I question putting any sealant on any part that is inside the hull like at 15:11. The outside flange is what is keeping water out. The extra sealant will just make it harder to remove.
Thanks John, it was a relief to get the camera fixed. I had resigned myself to having to buy a new touchscreen but fortunately I didn't even need to do that. Rossella would have gone bananas (I always break things, whereas she could own a piece of equipment for 50 years and it wouldn't have so much as a scratch on it 😂)
As for the sealant you are correct in what you are saying, but belt and braces doesn't hurt here, as long as the correct kind of sealant is used. I have seen people bed skin fittings, including the threads in great big gloops of 5200, with a very thin hull laminate, and I wouldn't want to be the one to remove these in the future... CT1 sealant adheres much less aggressively (26 kg/cm² for CT1, vs 70 kg/cm² for 3M 5200), so it won't be a problem. Fair winds! Chris 👍
To me it’s a myth that one can’t get marine sealant off, I have had no trouble removing sealed nuts and then cutting the dry sealant. Even fairly young sealant.
Every single piece of 27 year old sealant on my boat was found to be dead and powdery. We are 90% way through resealing and replacing every bolt and fitting.
Once again thanks for a wonderful video, very informative and well shot. Cheers!
My pleasure Nick. Cheers mate, Chris 👍
Good job ! Nice and clean
Thank you Joaquim 👍
We all been there when we have to learn how to fix something so we don't need to fess up breaking something 😀 great videos
😊 Thank you. 👍
Your videos are great. Thank you for making them.
Thank you for watching and commenting. :-) Cheers, Chris 👍
Great videk. Keep them coming!
Thank you Daniel! Chris 👍
Hi Chris, Did you consider Marelon valves?
Great video keep them coming please
Hi Kevin, thank you! Fair winds, Chris 👍
Cheers mate - great content! :)
Great video!
Thank you! Fair winds, Chris 👍
another great video
Thank you Roderick 👍
Incredible useful video!
Subscribe for more! 👍👍👍
Terrific output....liked and subbed, thanks.
Thank you Gareth, welcome aboard! Cheers, Chris
Thanks for making this great video - I used your method to remove and replace a seized valve/throughhull. Boat is now back in the water and leak free. Don't think I'd have been brave enough to apply an angle grinder to my boat if I hadn't see you do it first! :-)
That's good to hear, well done on completing the job and thank you for taking the time to send us your feedback. Cheers, Chris 👍
Did your 50ml Loctite 572 suffice for all your through hulls and if so how many valves do you fit?
Yes it was enough for us, but we didn’t have much left over. I replaced 8 through-hull assemblies and replaced the plastic saildrive ball valve with a DZR valve. A second bottle would have been a useful addition for the boat’s tool kit.
@@SailingBritaly Many thanks for the super swift reply. Most useful indeed. Stay well where you are, Mark
👍
An aircraft mechanic we are such a fussy bunch aren't we been working on jets for 35 years seen to much to not be fussy your doing it right keep it up
Cheers Wayne 👍
Loved the video. Keep it up
Thank you 👍
Great Information and presented in a great way. Thank you i will be following!
Thank you Ryan, welcome aboard! Chris 👍
Are the threads NPT to NPS or NPT to NPT?
What do you think about the heavy duty nylon seacocks? They are used in other industrial areas as conduit caps, plumbing, etc. They are extremely durable, and no corrosion ever. Is there a down side to them?
Hi there, this just came up elsewhere so here is the copy and pasted reply:
"I agree regarding composite through-hulls, but I have owned boats with Marelon ball valved and the stem felt weak to me when any resistance was encountered (friction between the ball and valve caused by marine growth) while operating the valves. I have also heard several stories like this:
mysailingfix.com/2017/07/28/thru-hull-failure/
I am yet to hear a single report of problems with TruDesign So I would choose TruDesign instead.
If anyone has heard of a TruDesign failure please share it."
Cheers,
Chris
lol, never mind, I found the answer later in the vid....
@@SailingBritaly thanks Chris, now that you mention it that would seem to be a weak point, where the most load and force is under use. Maybe the ball valve and handle too.
Thanks for sharing. Great video
Our pleasure Scott, thank you for commenting. 👍
thank you! Need to replace mine, very informative.
My pleasure Marco, good luck with the job. Chris 👍
Thank you Chris for this high quality video! Your camera work is outstanding!
I am about to do the same work on our Beneteau Oceanis 45 next week.
I have left the boat for a short stop-over 350 miles from where I leave,
and now I don't remember if my skin fittings are made of composite or brass.
I have some videos I took indicating that actual corroded valve is fitted to relatively clean,
black, threaded stem, protruding from the hull. But just by the look I cannot tell.
Would it be possible that Beneteau used composite skin fittings and then fitted
those with cheap brass valves?
Any Beneteau owners to comment on this?
Great video. Thanks for doing it!
Happy to be of service George, thank you for watching & commenting. Cheers, Chris 👍
You helped me alot. Thank you so much.
Really good video. The problem with zink in brass can not be stressed enough! But nail polish remover is not only acetone, it usually also contain oil (for skin protectin) so it is not suited for degreasing before painting or gluing.