The more Matt talks about this, the more other builders adopt this - one day someone is going to crack the nut and make a product that makes this an easy no brainer for all.
I love the idea of all the insulation being outboard but what I've never understood is how do you attach 9-12" of insulation? Are people driving 12+ inch screws through all of it and hitting 1.5" wide studs or rafters? Hope do you ensure it goes straight that far?
This! He's talked about it one time with a wall but it was only 4 in of insulation but I absolutely agree. How can you possibly guarantee you're sinking those huge long screws?
@@BenBrand can you start one bottom “ring” (around the exterior of the house) of zip 4x8 and foam board insulation, screw it in while you can see the studs above it, and then add the next “ring” of zip and foam board?
Even if you miss, you are going into structural sheathing. As long as you don't have an exposed ceiling, you can leave the misses in place, and go back and try again if you have too many misses that might effect roof uplift. If you have an exposed ceiling, you use 2x material to cover the joists, and with the proper length screws, you basically can't miss. It is pretty standard to install a metal roof into 1x furring or structural sheathing.
The simple answer is to use sips panels, but if you don't want to go that route, Steve Baczek actually did a video on this topic. Since he lives in Boston he has more code required insulation in many of his projects than Matt does in Texas. Basically you run what looks like a flooring truss (preferably a 2x4 open web truss, but I-joists work as well) up the side of your building and attach them directly to the studs and rafters through your sheathing. Assuming you are trying to implement the "Perfect Wall" concept with all of the insulation on the exterior, but you need more than 4 or 5 inches of rigid exterior insulation (which is all that is really viable with the standard method Matt uses with the long screws going through furring strips into studs), your wall assembly would be as follows: drywall or similar cladding on the inside, then a smart vapor retarder if required by code in your area, then studs, then sheathing (either with an integrated WRB like ZIP system, or plywood or OSB with either a fluid applied WRB or self-adhered membrane). At this point your wall should resemble Matt's typical "Perfect Wall" assembly and be fully airtight and water tight. Now you need to screw the open web trusses directly to your studs through your sheathing, then either fill the space between them with spray foam or a moisture resistant bat insulation like mineral wool, or wrap the trusses with house wrap and fill the cavity with a moisture resistant blown-in insulation (mineral wool is again an excellent choice). Whichever way you choose to insulate, you should enclose the bottom edge of the trusses with wire bug mesh and either soffit material or pressure treated plywood with a few drain holes drilled in to keep pests from building nests inside the insulation while allowing any incidental moisture to drain out. Depending on how deep your insulation filled trusses are, you can either just add a rain screen and your siding, or you may need to add furring strips or another layer of sheathing to keep your trusses from moving before adding your siding. A roof assembly for thick exterior insulation would look similar, with sheathing directly on the rafters (either ZIP or standard sheathing with a fluid applied WRB or self-adhered membrane), then the open web trusses screwed directly to the roof trusses and filled with insulation. This is where the roof assembly differs from the wall assembly, in that you are going to want to attach another layer of sheathing on top of the insulation filled trusses regardless of how deep they are, and your engineer may specify blocking or let-in bracing between the trusses depending on the expected snow loads and wind loads in your area. Then you want to apply a self-adhered high temperature roof underlayment and or ice and water shield on top of this second layer of sheathing. You can then either attach your metal roofing or shingles directly to this upper sheathing layer and vent the underside of the sheathing (you will need to plan for this with some kind of corrugated vent product to keep the insulation from blocking airflow), or install furring strips on top of the sheathing to allow venting and attach your metal roofing to the furring strips. I realize this was long, but I hope this helps. Good luck with your building project.
@r.j.bedore9884 wow, extremely helpful!! Thank you for taking the time to lay all that out. It makes sense but seems to be closer to a double wall situation now which of course works. Also, definitely getting more complicated and expensive. I guess that's what it takes to have lots of insulation and focus it all towards the outside. Layers of rigid insulation can only take you to far it seems. That definitely helps answer my question and makes sense. What you describe reminds me of the Larson wall. I didn't consider that being on the outside necessarily but if you put the water and air control layers inside i guess it does bring it all outside. Thanks again for sharing that info!
Fantastic breakdown! I appreciate that you show the progression (and details!) of monopoly framing methods across multiple projects. I love the mindset of striving for constant improvement and the fine tuning that comes with each build. Excellent! 😊
Matt, one way to vent those lower rooftops would be to do a box vent on the inside corners all the way up to the upper roof. This would carry the ventilation from the lower roof, up into the soffit of the upper roof, and all the way up to the ridge vents. The box vents could be easily disguised on the inside corners as trim boards, or even columns to carry enough air flow for the venting. I love the concept of the monopoly framing, but I still think the execution needs some additional work. Detailing out 2 or 3 layers of sheathing on the roof seems quite excessive, and I also worry about the fastener length causing issues in the future having enough holding power as things move around and relax through the seasons. Using 8 to 10 inch fasteners, it could introduce fastener twist or stretch, affecting the holding power. There has to be a faster, cheaper way to accomplish the goals needed. We just need to flesh things out better!
I did monopoly framing on the house I am building now. Walls are Zip R6. Roofs are all OSB nailed for high wind. Covered this with another layer of ZIP R6, which is also nailed with 16d for high wind. Joints are all staggered. Soffits and rakes are attached with structural screws. I consulted ZIP and got their recommendation on how to use the ZIP R6 on the roof. Yes, I have 2 roofs. Complete house was taped with ZIP tape and Fentrim tape for connecting to concrete. Walls are 2x4 staggered on 2x6/2x8 plates. Windows are inset as if 2x4 wall. Insulator has caulked all interior baseplates, and vertical studs around doors and windows and also where top plates meets roof. Complete house was wrapped in Mortairvent rain screen. House then got standing seam on roofs and Hardi horizontal and board and batten over the rain screen. All insulation will be closed cell. Each pass is done on subsequent days. House was rain tested during the Helene storm and no leaks. The only extra costs would be the double roof and a little extra labor on staggered walls. Also the rakes and soffits, but those went quickly. ZIP and Hardi are typical products here on the coast of SC.
Cor-A-Vent makes a product to vent roof to wall. I used this same kind of system on my barn, Timberframe Rafters, 2x6 T&G, plastic sheeting, 4 layers of 1.5" polyisocynate (R-34+), taped seams, 1x4 strapping vertical to roof, huber board to seal it all in. This roof system looks just like your best practice for siding.
Matt... would Monopoly Framing allow you to re-introduce "hidden rain gutters" in the eves of a home without the risk of water damage and leaks? I'm thinking this opens the opportunity to do a tray based rain gutter that lives in the overhang/eves which simply leaks to an unconditioned and uninsulated aluminum soffit below? Are there any products that fill this void?
Why is the second layer of zip sheathing necessary? Is it because of the type of roof? In other words, if you did a standing seem metal roof, couldn't you attach that directly to the furring strips? (I think you have another example of this where the furring strips are at a 45º angle).
I wonder if structurally screwing 2x4's on face to the top cord of the rafters prior to sheathing would be a solution to the issue of screwing through 12" of exterior insulation and possible missing the standard 1.5" wide cord.
I have a quick question about the wood sheeting being sandwiched between the non-breathable layers. The foam panel on top and the spray foam underneath. I’m wondering when the water leak in somewhere, it'd cause the roof panel to rot due to the lack of ventilation?
I like the double wall on the inside approach to framing, no need for window bucks, makes nice deep window sills, and provides more room for the HVAC oval ducts and plumbing between the two walls. No need for Simpson metal top plates and stud guards if the plumbing and ducts were in between the two walls. The electrician wouldn't need to drill the studs to run wires.
Matt, Thank you all your videos very helpful and I was wondering do you a have price per sqft for insulated roof system? I live in north Alabama and about to build house the way you just wondering the cost for roof insulate.
I would like to see the rough cost breakdown at that time, with the double sheathing and the foam panel insulation. Those foam panels are ridiculously pricey.
Hey Matt, at 17:32 there looks to be some sort of adhesive/foam under the Zip-R sheathing. Could you enlighten us on what type/brand it is and why it's needed? Is it for additional sheer strength?
Thanks for covering the detail about using the SPAX lag screws to secure the second layer of ZIP sheathing to your house. I was wondering how you did it and sure enough you mentioned it, and that it's expensive! I'm sure it's all worth it when you consider the quality and longevity of the building.
Your sub's went through the roof(PI) after the first mono frame house. It was an excellent detail. Since then you have stalled. Time to expand your character base - similar to the Perkins.
I really like Matt's videos where he discusses the details of the build, but I couldn't find the links to the videos that Matt showed and promised to include in the video description.
Hey Matt, I'm a young builder in the mountain west. I grew up in the industry and am trying to get on board with building tighter and more efficient homes. I have an upcoming project that I would love to try this monopoly framing technique on. My concern with this method in my market is keeping it budget friendly. Most builders in my market have vented attics, (vented soffit and ridge vents on the roof). When you do this method of framing do you have to have some sort of duct work or erv system that circulates the air in the attic spaces? I'd love to get some feed back. Thanks.
It is highly recommended to have an ERV when building tighter homes. Stuffy air, bath exhaust issues, possible appliance issues, and maybe one or two other issues can arise without getting fresh air from outside. Otherwise you would have to open a window for your "tightly built house" which would defeat a lot of what you are trying to accomplish
Really like your work. Help us figure out how to build the best quality for a lower amount. The if people have a bigger budget, they can add bling (cool framing timbers, exquisite finishes, etc).
Matt, question we are planning to remodel a home from 1989. Plan is to update interior, reroof and reside. would love to add continues exterior insulation, have you ever done this and is it even possible? Your Monopoly concept is so perfect. We are located in northern Missouri.
A critical thing with SIPS is to tape all the _interior_ joints where the panels meet. This can be tricky, especially in roofs, since they often meet at framing members. It takes careful advance planning. The reason is that there have been serious failures where humid interior air gets between the panel joints and condenses in the small gap between panels, and then proceeds to rot the exterior sheathing from the inside out. The larger SIPS manufacturers have good details for all this stuff on their websites.
I would agree. They recommended I first covered the roof with OSB. It becomes my primary shear layer. Then a covering of Zip R6, nailed with 16d. Stagger joints.
I have a question...I live about 30 miles East of Houston and am considering building a house with a crawl space...which do you recommend..poured cement pilings or concrete blocks..
Did you bug screen the notches and openings that you created for airflow under your roof? It seems like you created the perfect habitat for bees and wasp to nest, maybe not in Texas heat, but I bet they try in the cooler months.
I did the same thing. Building bylaw's here forced my hand to do so as overhang is included in the total square footage of the building so wanted to maximize my square footage so no overhang it was with metal siding/roof and I love it. Also did 2 2x4 on 2' centers staggered framing walls filled with rockwool with blown in Cellulose in the attic space.
You have done a lot about conditioned attics and with this "monopoly framing" it tends to go that way easily, but what about a vented attic where the perfect wall/roof is underneath the gable roof? Build the walls and continue the control layers across the ceiling of the top floor and then build the ventilated attic above that with no penetrations into the living space below.
Not that it couldn't be done but I think it may be tricky. Generally people need an area overhead (attic) or a basement to run mechanicals. With Matt's teachings of bringing those inside the envelope of the house, you would need a conditioned basement or a conditioned attic. Or maybe neither but a rather large central mechanical room. But you would also need space to run the ducting. In a conditioned attic or basement that scenario is pretty easy. Probably difficult to accomplish without those two scenarios
This question may show that I really don't know anything about it, but - why isn't the gable end soffit framing done at an upward angle instead of being perpendicular to the vertical pieces in the roof area? The flow would probably be much greater, and isn't that why those air gaps are there in the first place? But, I do wonder also about the compounded heat from the full length ventilation channel created by the runs from the soffit to the top of the roof. It would appear to be better if there were intermediate vents instead. Is it just because of the costs and a poor ROI?
Request, many off us in the North have and prefer vented attics. How do we frame these types of assemblies? I'v seen some with a Siga product stapled to top or bottom of ceiling joists, others where they used Zip on top or bottom of ceiling joist. Some have had service cavities as well.
There is no good reason for exterior insulation on a roof if you have a vented attic. So that pretty much removes any reason for following this approach. The whole reason this approach came about was to find ways to insulate the roof at the exterior, with continuous insulation, which only makes sense if you have an unventilated attic. Even if I was building in the north I would still opt for an unventilated attic.
I LOVE your show and the invaluable information given. The problem is, most builderd and contractors or remodelerers do NOT use anything beyond the shitty existing building codes and do not want to. It is beyond frustrating. I need to fix a leaky door, ahve more old (14 y/o) windows, builder grade, but you canot find anyone doing this to the building-science standards. I did use Pella for 4 windows that had water intrusion from years of the hail but in hindsight, they used HORRIBLE install practices and it scares me to lnow that no flashing was even applied, just spray foam and caulk! I would never use Pella again because for the amount of money it cost, they should have done a hell of a lot better. Can you recommend builders/contractors in my area? I am in Killeen/Temple, Texas.
Headwall with vented zee bar and panels cut short should allow air to leave along the wall. Why did you vent (cut openings) at the rake of the roof? You should only need intake at the eaves and ridge to allow proper air flow.
For venting the roof to wall put your insulation on than you 1×4s but put on same plane as the roof rafters than it vented up roof than up the wall into the vented over hang that leads to upper roof and out roof vent than the whole house has a vent around whole house without inference
Wondering how those bolt on over hangs would survive Hurricane or tornados? Porch roof vent with a rafter vent. Split down middle and applied top of roof
I would not call your house “traditional.” It is a modern interpretation of a traditional house. Traditional, unfortunately, often connotes boring. While your house likely fits your neighborhood, it still stands out as something far beyond traditional.
I wish he would show energy savings for a price comparison. Even though comfort can't be calculated in ,energy savings for the life of the property might help sell this style to purchasers🎉🎉🎉
Do we really need a second layer of zip on the roof after the two layers of insulation? On the risinger build, we can't we just attach the roofing directly to the 2x4s you've used as a rainscreen? Are we worried about water/uv damage to the insulation even though it's under a metal roof? Seems like a lot of extra cost for minimal benefit
@@niktak1114 No, not if the metal roofing is attached to furring strips. With the latest variant, there is 2x4's used to extend the eaves, the are essentially big furring strips.
I don't understand why you need a second layer of sheathing on the roof. If that sheathing is supported by 2x4 furring strips which is resting on the insulation, why don't you just lay out the furring strips so that you can directly attach the metal roofing to it? Couldn't you run them at a 45?
What about how that one friend of yours did semi-traditional roof framing, then just fully enclosed the roof soffit with Zip-R? Why not show that off? Way simpler than the sub-roof setups that you usually do.
I'm working on a modified version of a couple of these roofs for my upcoming bardominium build. Instead of doing the gable-end overhangs the way you did them on your personal house or using the expensive Hunter panels, I'm thinking about sheathing with basic OSB, ripping down some 2x4's to 1.5in sticks, running them up to the ridgeline 24"oc, filling the gap with either foam or mineral wool board, then running another row of slats across the roof and again filling the gap with foam or mineral wool, then finally sheathing with zip and taping it. The bottom layer of sheathing should be permeable enough to dry to the inside and the materials should be cheaper. Only real downside I can see is dealing with a hot roof but if I'm going with metal anyway that shouldn't be an issue. Might even be able to get away with batt insulation instead of rigid... but I might just be dreaming there.
This is the way of building that contractors never want to admit is much better. Its great to see the evolution of your work. Thank you
Could I cost cut the second layer of zip, put osb, and then tape the seams and use the zip peel and stick roof underlayment
Wondered the same thing. Zip isn't cheap, and then x2. But then water damage from a poor roof isn't cheap either...@@anthonyorourke2008
@@anthonyorourke2008 osb retains water much longer then plywood. That system he used has the possibility of mold growth in the zip
@@anthonyorourke2008 See my note above.
I really appreciate that you keep looking for ways to increase performance while reducing costs.
The more Matt talks about this, the more other builders adopt this - one day someone is going to crack the nut and make a product that makes this an easy no brainer for all.
I love the idea of all the insulation being outboard but what I've never understood is how do you attach 9-12" of insulation? Are people driving 12+ inch screws through all of it and hitting 1.5" wide studs or rafters? Hope do you ensure it goes straight that far?
This! He's talked about it one time with a wall but it was only 4 in of insulation but I absolutely agree. How can you possibly guarantee you're sinking those huge long screws?
@@BenBrand can you start one bottom “ring” (around the exterior of the house) of zip 4x8 and foam board insulation, screw it in while you can see the studs above it, and then add the next “ring” of zip and foam board?
Even if you miss, you are going into structural sheathing. As long as you don't have an exposed ceiling, you can leave the misses in place, and go back and try again if you have too many misses that might effect roof uplift. If you have an exposed ceiling, you use 2x material to cover the joists, and with the proper length screws, you basically can't miss. It is pretty standard to install a metal roof into 1x furring or structural sheathing.
The simple answer is to use sips panels, but if you don't want to go that route, Steve Baczek actually did a video on this topic. Since he lives in Boston he has more code required insulation in many of his projects than Matt does in Texas. Basically you run what looks like a flooring truss (preferably a 2x4 open web truss, but I-joists work as well) up the side of your building and attach them directly to the studs and rafters through your sheathing.
Assuming you are trying to implement the "Perfect Wall" concept with all of the insulation on the exterior, but you need more than 4 or 5 inches of rigid exterior insulation (which is all that is really viable with the standard method Matt uses with the long screws going through furring strips into studs), your wall assembly would be as follows: drywall or similar cladding on the inside, then a smart vapor retarder if required by code in your area, then studs, then sheathing (either with an integrated WRB like ZIP system, or plywood or OSB with either a fluid applied WRB or self-adhered membrane). At this point your wall should resemble Matt's typical "Perfect Wall" assembly and be fully airtight and water tight. Now you need to screw the open web trusses directly to your studs through your sheathing, then either fill the space between them with spray foam or a moisture resistant bat insulation like mineral wool, or wrap the trusses with house wrap and fill the cavity with a moisture resistant blown-in insulation (mineral wool is again an excellent choice). Whichever way you choose to insulate, you should enclose the bottom edge of the trusses with wire bug mesh and either soffit material or pressure treated plywood with a few drain holes drilled in to keep pests from building nests inside the insulation while allowing any incidental moisture to drain out. Depending on how deep your insulation filled trusses are, you can either just add a rain screen and your siding, or you may need to add furring strips or another layer of sheathing to keep your trusses from moving before adding your siding.
A roof assembly for thick exterior insulation would look similar, with sheathing directly on the rafters (either ZIP or standard sheathing with a fluid applied WRB or self-adhered membrane), then the open web trusses screwed directly to the roof trusses and filled with insulation. This is where the roof assembly differs from the wall assembly, in that you are going to want to attach another layer of sheathing on top of the insulation filled trusses regardless of how deep they are, and your engineer may specify blocking or let-in bracing between the trusses depending on the expected snow loads and wind loads in your area. Then you want to apply a self-adhered high temperature roof underlayment and or ice and water shield on top of this second layer of sheathing. You can then either attach your metal roofing or shingles directly to this upper sheathing layer and vent the underside of the sheathing (you will need to plan for this with some kind of corrugated vent product to keep the insulation from blocking airflow), or install furring strips on top of the sheathing to allow venting and attach your metal roofing to the furring strips.
I realize this was long, but I hope this helps. Good luck with your building project.
@r.j.bedore9884 wow, extremely helpful!! Thank you for taking the time to lay all that out. It makes sense but seems to be closer to a double wall situation now which of course works. Also, definitely getting more complicated and expensive. I guess that's what it takes to have lots of insulation and focus it all towards the outside. Layers of rigid insulation can only take you to far it seems. That definitely helps answer my question and makes sense. What you describe reminds me of the Larson wall. I didn't consider that being on the outside necessarily but if you put the water and air control layers inside i guess it does bring it all outside. Thanks again for sharing that info!
If I ever win the lottery you guys are one of my first calls to build me a house.
Yes, they aren't cheap! I inquired and was very sad to learn that I really couldn't afford Matt to build my retirement house in Austin. :o(
I was waiting for Scotts' genius framing system. His treatment of overhangs should be included.
Yea, we need more Scott/his methods on here
@shawnweaver3955 Scott True. Dimora Homes, Bastrop Texas. Scott was feted in past Risinger videos.
Timely video. We are building our first monopoly framed home and experiencing the joy of finding the rafters under all the insulation layers.
One of the main reasons I used engineered floor trusses for my roof. Should be easy to hit the 3-1/2" flanges through thick exterior insulation.
Fantastic breakdown! I appreciate that you show the progression (and details!) of monopoly framing methods across multiple projects. I love the mindset of striving for constant improvement and the fine tuning that comes with each build. Excellent! 😊
This was great!! More videos with breakdowns like this would be super helpful!
Matt, one way to vent those lower rooftops would be to do a box vent on the inside corners all the way up to the upper roof. This would carry the ventilation from the lower roof, up into the soffit of the upper roof, and all the way up to the ridge vents. The box vents could be easily disguised on the inside corners as trim boards, or even columns to carry enough air flow for the venting.
I love the concept of the monopoly framing, but I still think the execution needs some additional work. Detailing out 2 or 3 layers of sheathing on the roof seems quite excessive, and I also worry about the fastener length causing issues in the future having enough holding power as things move around and relax through the seasons. Using 8 to 10 inch fasteners, it could introduce fastener twist or stretch, affecting the holding power.
There has to be a faster, cheaper way to accomplish the goals needed. We just need to flesh things out better!
Totally agree! Love the idea of exterior roof insulation but there has to be a cheaper/more efficient way
I did monopoly framing on the house I am building now. Walls are Zip R6. Roofs are all OSB nailed for high wind. Covered this with another layer of ZIP R6, which is also nailed with 16d for high wind. Joints are all staggered. Soffits and rakes are attached with structural screws. I consulted ZIP and got their recommendation on how to use the ZIP R6 on the roof. Yes, I have 2 roofs. Complete house was taped with ZIP tape and Fentrim tape for connecting to concrete. Walls are 2x4 staggered on 2x6/2x8 plates. Windows are inset as if 2x4 wall. Insulator has caulked all interior baseplates, and vertical studs around doors and windows and also where top plates meets roof. Complete house was wrapped in Mortairvent rain screen. House then got standing seam on roofs and Hardi horizontal and board and batten over the rain screen. All insulation will be closed cell. Each pass is done on subsequent days. House was rain tested during the Helene storm and no leaks. The only extra costs would be the double roof and a little extra labor on staggered walls. Also the rakes and soffits, but those went quickly. ZIP and Hardi are typical products here on the coast of SC.
Great job at Build Show Live in Austin this year! Thank you wife again for allowing us to tour your house.
Cor-A-Vent makes a product to vent roof to wall.
I used this same kind of system on my barn, Timberframe Rafters, 2x6 T&G, plastic sheeting, 4 layers of 1.5" polyisocynate (R-34+), taped seams, 1x4 strapping vertical to roof, huber board to seal it all in.
This roof system looks just like your best practice for siding.
I was thinking a ridge vent, split in half
Matt... would Monopoly Framing allow you to re-introduce "hidden rain gutters" in the eves of a home without the risk of water damage and leaks? I'm thinking this opens the opportunity to do a tray based rain gutter that lives in the overhang/eves which simply leaks to an unconditioned and uninsulated aluminum soffit below? Are there any products that fill this void?
I believe ns builders has a video using his detail with exterior insulation. I can't remember the series but it was probably about a year ago
Why is the second layer of zip sheathing necessary? Is it because of the type of roof?
In other words, if you did a standing seem metal roof, couldn't you attach that directly to the furring strips? (I think you have another example of this where the furring strips are at a 45º angle).
I am wondering the same thing. I was hoping to do zip, rockwool, furring strips, standing seam metal. Why can't that work?
I wonder if structurally screwing 2x4's on face to the top cord of the rafters prior to sheathing would be a solution to the issue of screwing through 12" of exterior insulation and possible missing the standard 1.5" wide cord.
I like that idea.
I have a quick question about the wood sheeting being sandwiched between the non-breathable layers. The foam panel on top and the spray foam underneath. I’m wondering when the water leak in somewhere, it'd cause the roof panel to rot due to the lack of ventilation?
I like the double wall on the inside approach to framing, no need for window bucks, makes nice deep window sills, and provides more room for the HVAC oval ducts and plumbing between the two walls. No need for Simpson metal top plates and stud guards if the plumbing and ducts were in between the two walls. The electrician wouldn't need to drill the studs to run wires.
Matt,
Thank you all your videos very helpful and I was wondering do you a have price per sqft for insulated roof system? I live in north Alabama and about to build house the way you just wondering the cost for roof insulate.
I would like to see the rough cost breakdown at that time, with the double sheathing and the foam panel insulation. Those foam panels are ridiculously pricey.
I remember all of those video intros! I watched every single one and now I’m studying to become a home inspector 😁
Hey Matt, at 17:32 there looks to be some sort of adhesive/foam under the Zip-R sheathing. Could you enlighten us on what type/brand it is and why it's needed? Is it for additional sheer strength?
Thanks for covering the detail about using the SPAX lag screws to secure the second layer of ZIP sheathing to your house. I was wondering how you did it and sure enough you mentioned it, and that it's expensive! I'm sure it's all worth it when you consider the quality and longevity of the building.
Your sub's went through the roof(PI) after the first mono frame house. It was an excellent detail. Since then you have stalled. Time to expand your character base - similar to the Perkins.
The third house you showed with the Hunter panel seems to be expensive; how much does it cost verses the R - value achieved?
I’d like to know what you think about Scott True’s method of taking the control layer AROUND the soffit and overhang.
I really like Matt's videos where he discusses the details of the build, but I couldn't find the links to the videos that Matt showed and promised to include in the video description.
Love it… great break down. Thanks
Hey Matt, I'm a young builder in the mountain west. I grew up in the industry and am trying to get on board with building tighter and more efficient homes. I have an upcoming project that I would love to try this monopoly framing technique on. My concern with this method in my market is keeping it budget friendly. Most builders in my market have vented attics, (vented soffit and ridge vents on the roof). When you do this method of framing do you have to have some sort of duct work or erv system that circulates the air in the attic spaces? I'd love to get some feed back. Thanks.
It is highly recommended to have an ERV when building tighter homes. Stuffy air, bath exhaust issues, possible appliance issues, and maybe one or two other issues can arise without getting fresh air from outside. Otherwise you would have to open a window for your "tightly built house" which would defeat a lot of what you are trying to accomplish
Really like your work. Help us figure out how to build the best quality for a lower amount. The if people have a bigger budget, they can add bling (cool framing timbers, exquisite finishes, etc).
Fascinating way of building that, unfortunately, I can't afford. Awesome to watch though
Matt, question we are planning to remodel a home from 1989. Plan is to update interior, reroof and reside. would love to add continues exterior insulation, have you ever done this and is it even possible? Your Monopoly concept is so perfect. We are located in northern Missouri.
For the headwall vent, could you use a plain TStud without the foam?
Would a SIP panel over traditional framing make more sense and streamline the process?
A critical thing with SIPS is to tape all the _interior_ joints where the panels meet. This can be tricky, especially in roofs, since they often meet at framing members. It takes careful advance planning. The reason is that there have been serious failures where humid interior air gets between the panel joints and condenses in the small gap between panels, and then proceeds to rot the exterior sheathing from the inside out.
The larger SIPS manufacturers have good details for all this stuff on their websites.
Are there any studies (formal or informal) on roof airgap size optimization of venting when planned for full sun and black shingles?
Now if Huber would only certify the Zip-R panels for roofing use!
I would agree. They recommended I first covered the roof with OSB. It becomes my primary shear layer. Then a covering of Zip R6, nailed with 16d. Stagger joints.
I have a question...I live about 30 miles East of Houston and am considering building a house with a crawl space...which do you recommend..poured cement pilings or concrete blocks..
Did you bug screen the notches and openings that you created for airflow under your roof? It seems like you created the perfect habitat for bees and wasp to nest, maybe not in Texas heat, but I bet they try in the cooler months.
Wouldn't it be bug screened at the soffit?
I built my shop without overhangs and a carpenter stopped and was very curious, works very well though and looks great.
I did the same thing. Building bylaw's here forced my hand to do so as overhang is included in the total square footage of the building so wanted to maximize my square footage so no overhang it was with metal siding/roof and I love it. Also did 2 2x4 on 2' centers staggered framing walls filled with rockwool with blown in Cellulose in the attic space.
Would that last roof structure work for a very cold climate like Montana?
would a shingle over Lamaco style vent work at the very top of the deck? Basically you are just looking for a vent to let air escape.
Matt, I have a house built in 59, If I were to do my roof like this would the extra weight from the wood be structural disaster waiting to happen?
How about for rowhomes, any systems there to run all exterior insulation to avoid having it in the wall?
You would want it in the wall too for a sound barrier between you and your neighbor.
Can you please provide a link to Joe’s perfect wall article? Thanks!!!
You have done a lot about conditioned attics and with this "monopoly framing" it tends to go that way easily, but what about a vented attic where the perfect wall/roof is underneath the gable roof? Build the walls and continue the control layers across the ceiling of the top floor and then build the ventilated attic above that with no penetrations into the living space below.
Yes
Not that it couldn't be done but I think it may be tricky. Generally people need an area overhead (attic) or a basement to run mechanicals. With Matt's teachings of bringing those inside the envelope of the house, you would need a conditioned basement or a conditioned attic. Or maybe neither but a rather large central mechanical room. But you would also need space to run the ducting. In a conditioned attic or basement that scenario is pretty easy. Probably difficult to accomplish without those two scenarios
This question may show that I really don't know anything about it, but - why isn't the gable end soffit framing done at an upward angle instead of being perpendicular to the vertical pieces in the roof area? The flow would probably be much greater, and isn't that why those air gaps are there in the first place? But, I do wonder also about the compounded heat from the full length ventilation channel created by the runs from the soffit to the top of the roof. It would appear to be better if there were intermediate vents instead. Is it just because of the costs and a poor ROI?
Request, many off us in the North have and prefer vented attics. How do we frame these types of assemblies? I'v seen some with a Siga product stapled to top or bottom of ceiling joists, others where they used Zip on top or bottom of ceiling joist. Some have had service cavities as well.
There is no good reason for exterior insulation on a roof if you have a vented attic. So that pretty much removes any reason for following this approach. The whole reason this approach came about was to find ways to insulate the roof at the exterior, with continuous insulation, which only makes sense if you have an unventilated attic.
Even if I was building in the north I would still opt for an unventilated attic.
@@HistoricHomePlans I understand this. Which is why I asked how to frame those types of assemblies.
For the head wall vent, if using a metal roof, you can just use perforated Z-Bar, especially if your storms don't normally come from that direction.
I LOVE your show and the invaluable information given. The problem is, most builderd and contractors or remodelerers do NOT use anything beyond the shitty existing building codes and do not want to. It is beyond frustrating. I need to fix a leaky door, ahve more old (14 y/o) windows, builder grade, but you canot find anyone doing this to the building-science standards. I did use Pella for 4 windows that had water intrusion from years of the hail but in hindsight, they used HORRIBLE install practices and it scares me to lnow that no flashing was even applied, just spray foam and caulk! I would never use Pella again because for the amount of money it cost, they should have done a hell of a lot better. Can you recommend builders/contractors in my area? I am in Killeen/Temple, Texas.
I wonder if you could modify a ridge vent to use for the head wall vent
Thanks Matt
Headwall with vented zee bar and panels cut short should allow air to leave along the wall. Why did you vent (cut openings) at the rake of the roof? You should only need intake at the eaves and ridge to allow proper air flow.
For venting the roof to wall put your insulation on than you 1×4s but put on same plane as the roof rafters than it vented up roof than up the wall into the vented over hang that leads to upper roof and out roof vent than the whole house has a vent around whole house without inference
Perhaps a cavity batten to increase air/water flow. Aka the James Hardie 306181
Wondering how those bolt on over hangs would survive Hurricane or tornados?
Porch roof vent with a rafter vent. Split down middle and applied top of roof
I would not call your house “traditional.” It is a modern interpretation of a traditional house. Traditional, unfortunately, often connotes boring. While your house likely fits your neighborhood, it still stands out as something far beyond traditional.
Why would this be better than steel cladding with closed cell spray foam directly sprayed onto the back side of the steel?
What about modified monopoly framing?
I wish he would show energy savings for a price comparison. Even though comfort can't be calculated in ,energy savings for the life of the property might help sell this style to purchasers🎉🎉🎉
Do we really need a second layer of zip on the roof after the two layers of insulation? On the risinger build, we can't we just attach the roofing directly to the 2x4s you've used as a rainscreen? Are we worried about water/uv damage to the insulation even though it's under a metal roof? Seems like a lot of extra cost for minimal benefit
Condensation will form on the underside of the roofing
@@niktak1114 No, not if the metal roofing is attached to furring strips. With the latest variant, there is 2x4's used to extend the eaves, the are essentially big furring strips.
@@niktak1114 and then it'll drain out and dry out, no?
That's a good way to support a gable soffit
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I don't understand why you need a second layer of sheathing on the roof. If that sheathing is supported by 2x4 furring strips which is resting on the insulation, why don't you just lay out the furring strips so that you can directly attach the metal roofing to it? Couldn't you run them at a 45?
Cool system but for the cost I’d rather do ICF. Particularly in tornado country
What about how that one friend of yours did semi-traditional roof framing, then just fully enclosed the roof soffit with Zip-R? Why not show that off? Way simpler than the sub-roof setups that you usually do.
I have a 1930 house I need to do insulation in the walls. Can you come over lol
The air gap on the lower roof could feed into an air gap on the wall.
The first time I seen something like it was called super insulation but I think duel wall construction is better but am doing more research
Always put cladding underneath your basement concrete floor.
I don't understand why the venting is needed between water-sealed layers of roofing.
I really don't understand why sips wouldn't be a good option? Especially on the roof.
I'm working on a modified version of a couple of these roofs for my upcoming bardominium build. Instead of doing the gable-end overhangs the way you did them on your personal house or using the expensive Hunter panels, I'm thinking about sheathing with basic OSB, ripping down some 2x4's to 1.5in sticks, running them up to the ridgeline 24"oc, filling the gap with either foam or mineral wool board, then running another row of slats across the roof and again filling the gap with foam or mineral wool, then finally sheathing with zip and taping it. The bottom layer of sheathing should be permeable enough to dry to the inside and the materials should be cheaper. Only real downside I can see is dealing with a hot roof but if I'm going with metal anyway that shouldn't be an issue. Might even be able to get away with batt insulation instead of rigid... but I might just be dreaming there.
I'm ok with Joes perfect wall but not double roofs that end up with only R20 insulation.
You have accomplished your goal with the envelope, but man, esthetically I hate everything about that first house.
Those vented roofs will make perfect homes for animals and bugs. No?
Interesting question. This is such a smart system, I expect they have an answer for that.
Not sure about down in TX where Matt is, but up in the Northeast, we get wasps in pretty much any gap in siding or soffits.
C'mon, you place bug screen at the openings and that takes care of the bugs.
Who can afford this type of house construction? 1%, 5%? If the result is just no heating and cooling bill, what is the break even point?
you don't even do the work you just let the hired help work
I dont live between he sheetrock and exterior sheeting.
Those channels are perfect places for fire to spread really, really fast.
This roof system is a poor choice for California and its wildfire problems.
There is probably less chance of fire spreading with this system than a vented attic.