Excellent video, absolutely top notch. The wife came out again wondering who I’ve been talking to so long. She can’t tell our voices apart, go figure. That was a super video. Thanks, Jim
great video, thank you, very clear with instruction. i am thinking the exhaust bore turned out a bit looser because the drill seemed to turn faster and for a bit longer, use to work in a machine shop, reaming was always done at a slower speed.
I was wondering also if not using a cutting fluid or lubricant might cause the drill/reamer to cut an over sized hole. In most of the videos I've seen when drilling and reaming for new guides they say to use a good lubricant.
Yes I probably should have used at least wd40 or cutting fluid but i didn't really think about it at the time, but you are correct it would be best. Your welcome, thanks for watching!!!
Fine job! All I've ever done is lapped and not new bushings.............yet! All I do with a stuck one is pull the head, run some good oil down the stem and take a dead blow hammer and tap the valve back down after turning the engine over till it goes back down on it's own. Then put the head back on after changing the oil in the sump if it's grungy, and it usually is. Then get it running and the valve will work itself loose and then change the oil again. I might use cheap oil in the 1st change or ATF but Delo or Valvoline diesel formula 15/40 in the final. You did GOOD, Pal! Pick me one!
Thanks. I hear ya! That usually works good, i've had a few that were really bad. I usually use a cheaper oil to flush them out, then go with valvoline mixed with lucas, seems to be a perfect mix for small engines (future video as well), thanks for watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 Sounds like a plan to me. Good old Lucas! That's in a new one to me because I try and keep the oil clean from then on and I have NO doubt you do too! NOW go pick me one!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 The Onan 2500 watt had a stuck valve and it's run fine ever since but I marked the crank pulley and store it with the piston a T.D.C. The Briggs on the 5k I hit the starter every few days so it don't have a chance. Now you can pick me another one to stay in practice!
I have an old 5HP B&S on a generator. It burned an exhaust valve 20 or so years ago and then this year the thing started missing when under load and could not keep the revs up. I took the head off no burned valves but way too much play I lapped them both in and put it back together as this alum. block had no guides at all, it now runs ok but I think it will get bad again with so much play in the valves. All the small engine guys said I'll have to replace the engine sooner or later . But I was thinking of reaming out the alum guides and drifting in the new brass/bronze guides and a new set of valves and lapp them in. Do you think it will work and last? I'm asking you because you know your stuff and tend to think outside the box also. Tks for a great video.
Thanks for the great guide! What part number did you use for the exhaust bushing? (not the incorrect and to thin 63709). For my engine (also 5hp B&S) pno 63709 is wrongly stated and info is missing in available exploded views about the exhaust valve bushing. I have measured the dismantled exhaust bushing, which has an outer diameter of approx. 8mm/.0315 (for 1/4 valve stem). Many thanks for the advice.
Good video I have a Tecumseh 5.5 hp for a snow blower I was wondering if you could do that to those valve guides also.The Tecumseh has bushings in already
Great video. You the guru! You know the subject and it shows. Few small engine shops may even know this, what to say do it. They probably do not even know how to differentiate between signs of worn rings and worn guides. I too have never done it in 14 years. Thinking of doing it for the heck of it, to have done well another rare procedure. Have a Tecumseh 9HP snow engine. Guides not available. May use Briggs guides or one from the set you showed. Is opening up the crankcase really necessary or can I go just cover the holes for the valve tappets with duct tape?
Thanks! If the briggs ones will not work, you can probably find some brass bushings that will work just fine, as long as you have the proper size tools to drill and ream/press the new ones in. No, you can do that, just tape it off so no shavings will get in, i had this engine already tore apart. Thanks for Watching!!!
What would be the part # for the valve guide tool for the model 28 briggs? I have a 12 horse powerbuilt on my snapper that has over 4000 hours on it and the exhaust valve guide is very sloppy.
I do not have the part #'s for that, i can give you the part numbers for the guides though. I haven't been able to source the kit for the bigger engines for some reason. Intake valve guide is 231218, exhaust is 261961 Wish i could help more. Thanks for Watching!!!
These are bad about letting oil seep past them and causes smoking while running, and in extreme cases if the valve guides are so worn that it make the valves not seal right, so it will loose compression and just not run right. Most common is just oil burning. Thanks for Watching!!!
Excellent video, absolutely top notch.
The wife came out again wondering who I’ve been talking to so long.
She can’t tell our voices apart, go figure.
That was a super video.
Thanks,
Jim
Appreciate that! hahaha thats hilarious! Your welcome, thanks for watching!!!
LOL!
Excellent video!! Your attention to and explanation of detail is far and away better than most all others I've watched. Thanks!!
Appreciate that! Thanks for Watching!!!
Phak ! I forgot to watch this one. 6 months later is better than never. Good content. Thanks for sharing.
I hear ya! Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
We use a .0308 and a .2485 reamer and lube is a must. Because reamers lubed alway cuts .0015 bigger because of chips and wear. Great video no less.
Thanks for the tip! Thanks for Watching!!!
This is a great video. I wish more videos on RUclips have this place and knowledge.
Great video. Never replaced valve guides on a small engine before. Great job. Thanks for sharing.
Appreciate that! I haven't done to many myself to be honest. Your welcome, thanks for watching!!!
great video, thank you, very clear with instruction. i am thinking the exhaust bore turned out a bit looser because the drill seemed to turn faster and for a bit longer, use to work in a machine shop, reaming was always done at a slower speed.
I was wondering also if not using a cutting fluid or lubricant might cause the drill/reamer to cut an over sized hole. In most of the videos I've seen when drilling and reaming for new guides they say to use a good lubricant.
Would it help to put a little lube on your reamers? Thanks for great video's.
Yes I probably should have used at least wd40 or cutting fluid but i didn't really think about it at the time, but you are correct it would be best. Your welcome, thanks for watching!!!
Fine job! All I've ever done is lapped and not new bushings.............yet! All I do with a stuck one is pull the head, run some good oil down the stem and take a dead blow hammer and tap the valve back down after turning the engine over till it goes back down on it's own. Then put the head back on after changing the oil in the sump if it's grungy, and it usually is. Then get it running and the valve will work itself loose and then change the oil again. I might use cheap oil in the 1st change or ATF but Delo or Valvoline diesel formula 15/40 in the final. You did GOOD, Pal! Pick me one!
Thanks. I hear ya! That usually works good, i've had a few that were really bad. I usually use a cheaper oil to flush them out, then go with valvoline mixed with lucas, seems to be a perfect mix for small engines (future video as well), thanks for watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 Sounds like a plan to me. Good old Lucas! That's in a new one to me because I try and keep the oil clean from then on and I have NO doubt you do too! NOW go pick me one!
@@lewiemcneely9143 It does good, yeah it makes a difference flushing them like that. lol I'll have a pickin' video eventually
@@fnaguitarplayer9 The Onan 2500 watt had a stuck valve and it's run fine ever since but I marked the crank pulley and store it with the piston a T.D.C. The Briggs on the 5k I hit the starter every few days so it don't have a chance. Now you can pick me another one to stay in practice!
@@lewiemcneely9143 Thats a really good idea keeping it at TDC.
I have an old 5HP B&S on a generator. It burned an exhaust valve 20 or so years ago and then this year the thing started missing when under load and could not keep the revs up. I took the head off no burned valves but way too much play I lapped them both in and put it back together as this alum. block had no guides at all, it now runs ok but I think it will get bad again with so much play in the valves. All the small engine guys said I'll have to replace the engine sooner or later . But I was thinking of reaming out the alum guides and drifting in the new brass/bronze guides and a new set of valves and lapp them in. Do you think it will work and last? I'm asking you because you know your stuff and tend to think outside the box also. Tks for a great video.
I’m sure new guides will fix it 😊
Well done 👍 keep doing it like this and you’ll be fine 😊
Thanks for the great guide! What part number did you use for the exhaust bushing? (not the incorrect and to thin 63709). For my engine (also 5hp B&S) pno 63709 is wrongly stated and info is missing in available exploded views about the exhaust valve bushing. I have measured the dismantled exhaust bushing, which has an outer diameter of approx. 8mm/.0315 (for 1/4 valve stem). Many thanks for the advice.
Good video I have a Tecumseh 5.5 hp for a snow blower I was wondering if you could do that to those valve guides also.The Tecumseh has bushings in already
wow good video , thx Ed Loretto Ontario Canada
Do you use cutting oil? Very good info
Great video. You the guru! You know the subject and it shows. Few small engine shops may even know this, what to say do it. They probably do not even know how to differentiate between signs of worn rings and worn guides. I too have never done it in 14 years. Thinking of doing it for the heck of it, to have done well another rare procedure. Have a Tecumseh 9HP snow engine. Guides not available. May use Briggs guides or one from the set you showed. Is opening up the crankcase really necessary or can I go just cover the holes for the valve tappets with duct tape?
Thanks! If the briggs ones will not work, you can probably find some brass bushings that will work just fine, as long as you have the proper size tools to drill and ream/press the new ones in. No, you can do that, just tape it off so no shavings will get in, i had this engine already tore apart. Thanks for Watching!!!
great video. i needed this info thanks
Yeah it was moving. But huge improvement on exhaust
I'm dying to get my hands on that valve kit.19269. Any idea? I've looked everywhere I know.
What would be the part # for the valve guide tool for the model 28 briggs? I have a 12 horse powerbuilt on my snapper that has over 4000 hours on it and the exhaust valve guide is very sloppy.
I do not have the part #'s for that, i can give you the part numbers for the guides though. I haven't been able to source the kit for the bigger engines for some reason. Intake valve guide is 231218, exhaust is 261961 Wish i could help more. Thanks for Watching!!!
Got a part # on those guides and who makes them ?
Great video
Appreciate that, Thanks for Watching!!!
What made you have to replace the valve guide bushings to begin with? was it not running right?
These are bad about letting oil seep past them and causes smoking while running, and in extreme cases if the valve guides are so worn that it make the valves not seal right, so it will loose compression and just not run right. Most common is just oil burning. Thanks for Watching!!!
A+ good job
Thanks for Watching!!!
👍
im having trouble finding that tool..
You will more then likely have to order the whole set, I got mine from jacks small engine. Thanks for Watching!!!
100th like
I hear ya! Thanks for Watching!!!