Excellent. Not only was this informative but well produced. Lighting and sound were great, you covered the topic very clearly; I can see your experience and knowledge. I'm glad you didn't waste my time talking about the weather or your problems in life. You have increased my knowledge and my confidence. Maybe the best RUclips instructional videos I've seen. By the way, I'm a college professor.
Oh man yeah the nonsense people say in videos about lawnmower engines. "It's about 105, 106 degrees today. It's hot, it's hotter than yesterday. Probably be cooler than tomorrow. But, anyway I got this lawnmower off my buddy Ray..."
Thank you. This video series is great. It has helped me immensely rebuild a nonstarting b and s 450e mower. Your viewers appreciate your thoroughness and work ethic. :)
great video and so was the tear down video. Thinking seriously about starting a small engine repair shop from home. I can rebuild motors pretty well and have almost every tool i think i would need Thank You Daddy for the tools. I inherited his when he passed and along with mine think i am set on tools I do need a good torc wrench though. The trouble shooting a small engine i may need some experience but will learn. Thanks for the great video it gives me confidence that i can accomplish this and along with my SS live without having to be at work at 5:am as i do now.
I always smooth up that crank on that pto side before I try to put the sump cover back on. New seal & lubed up before I slide it on the shaft. That corroded shaft can tear an old dried out seal & now there's a leaker.
Jake, I have a 09P602, 140 cc. And I have had no luck finding specs, I bought a Briggs&Stratton Repair Guide for Single Cyl OHV Air Cooled Engines that covers 97700 and 99700 Vertical Shaft engines which I thought would be close enough. Anyways, thanks for your video, a lot more helpful than the guide I bought.
Great video! Just noticing the half assed paint job by Briggs. Lol. Either paint the thing black or don’t. Instead they spray the bottom of the block and figure you won’t notice the paint missing from the cylinder head 😒
It`s a nice excursion to the inside of the engine!!! :) It seems to me, I have to do this, because of possible camshaft issues... Do you have an idea how to diagnose it prior to engine disassembly, please? Some people advised to check a special bounce of a decompression mechanism, manually rotating flywheel at the end of compression cycle... If no bouncing or clicking effect- camshaft needs to be replaced. However, this method is useful for more powerful engines. Is this still effective for this type of engine4s, or decompressor works differently here and no "bounce" is OK? Thank you
Great video and very helpful. I have a question about the slinger and governor/crank arm. Using time 7:11 as a reference - how does the arm that is resting on the slinger interact with it when the motor is running? Isn't the slinger just slinging oil? How is the governor crank interacting with the slinger and how do you correctly set it? With the engine apart, and no springs attached, it just freely rotates.
The two metal parts on the governor are pivoting weights which push the center nylon pin out. The tip of the spinning pin pushes on the lever arm, which is connected the linkage that closes the throttle. There is no adjustment inside the engine. The governor just pushes harder on the lever with increased speed, and an external spring pulling it back controls the RPM. You should think of the assembly as primarily a governor. The oil slinger function is simply extra ribs on the spinning assembly.
I have an old Luv Bug riding mower.. 6.75 Briggs. I noticed the belt pulley attached to the bottom of the crank shaft comes in contact with the deck pulley when the deck is lifted to highest setting. There is a limited Clarence between these two pulleys. There isn’t any way to adjust the deck for it is fixed other than one adjustment to level it from left to right for even cutting. I come to find excessive up and down movement in the crank. Enough that it causes this clearance issue with the deck pulley. The engine runs great. I simply won’t use blade deck on highest level. I changed oil twice and put new carb, air filter and plug in and installed all new drive belts. This was a trash find. Cuts great! My question is how much life do you think is left in this engine and can the main bearing be replaced on the crank or is it possible wear in the crank that is causing this play?
@@Jake.of.All.Trades I was able to fix my motor today all thanks to this video. I used your other disassembly video and watched it backwards lol. My original issue was the connection rod blew up and cracked the motorblock. I used JB weld steelstik on the cracks and filed it all down. Its up and running thank you!
Thank you so much for the video! After I put the camshaft, the it turns only with the bracket loose. After I torque the screw 100 inch pound it would not rotate. Any ideas?
Do we have to lubricate the inside of the cylinder wall with a little bit of engine oil? I had to open my briggs 675 quantum push mower to change the gasket and to make sure I reset the governor correctly. I noticed some parts of the inside of the cylinder wall had some deep scratches. Deep enough to where I can feel the roughness with my fingers. I'm going to put it all back together, but I just want to know if I should put some oil on those scratched up spots on the cylinder wall? Thanks for your help.
Question: at around 16:30 I think you mix up the intake and exhaust rocker arm. Please check that because you also refer to the gap, which could be incorrect.
Timing Question: I have just opened up an engine with a broken rod…the green timing gear notch is not aligned with the crank timing gear notch…out by approx 45 deg on the green cam gear…how can that be ???? Could a rod failure cause the gears to jump?
Superb video series! I have just dismantled one of these engines and found that the green timing gear marker was NOT aligned with the marker on the crank gear…out by approx 45 degrees…how could that possibly be ?? The rod is broken but I assume a broken rod would not cause the timing gears to jump …or????
For what it's worth: my engine had a sheared flywheel timing key AND the black plastic timing gear on the crankshaft was in the wrong position because it's locating tab and sheared off too. That might explain your findings.
@@shortwavesurfer7222 Well in my case it must have been the blade hit a rock and stopped the rotation but the engine kept on going, shearing both the flywheel key and the crankshaft plastic gear. It took me four teardowns to realize both had broke! Maybe yours also hit something and broke the rod instead of the key but also sheared the plastic crankshaft gear tab.
Confused. When adjusting for valve clearance. The video showing you adjusting the valve with the long rocker,you called it the intake valve and you set it to 0.004. it is actually the exhaust valve. Did I miss understand that.
I have one of this machine, but I have a problem: When I try to turn on, the cord is hard to move. I try to rotate shaft with my hand and I feel hard, I can move it but I ferl hard. What are the posibles issues?? Thanks.
Thank you for the video! I have an engine that was run with too little oil - it seized. I can turn it about 1/2 rotation, but it stops hard. What should I be looking for that is causing it not to turn fully?
Have you done the snowblower engine? 21M114 does the arrow on the piston go towards the PTO OR flywheel? And the rod, the PTO side goes to the rear and the MAG goes toward the front? Thanks.
With a good oil film there is no direct contact. And if there is contact, the plastic is less likely to wear, and the wear material will be less of a problem in the oil. Of course that doesn't address aging of the PA6.6 resin, but it should be fine long past the expected lifetime of the equipment its installed on.
This video REALY helps people like me who have tools and no money for big repair bills thanks so so so much!
Excellent. Not only was this informative but well produced. Lighting and sound were great, you covered the topic very clearly; I can see your experience and knowledge. I'm glad you didn't waste my time talking about the weather or your problems in life. You have increased my knowledge and my confidence. Maybe the best RUclips instructional videos I've seen. By the way, I'm a college professor.
Glad it was helpful!
Oh man yeah the nonsense people say in videos about lawnmower engines. "It's about 105, 106 degrees today. It's hot, it's hotter than yesterday. Probably be cooler than tomorrow. But, anyway I got this lawnmower off my buddy Ray..."
Thank you. This video series is great. It has helped me immensely rebuild a nonstarting b and s 450e mower. Your viewers appreciate your thoroughness and work ethic. :)
great video and so was the tear down video. Thinking seriously about starting a small engine repair shop from home. I can rebuild motors pretty well and have almost every tool i think i would need Thank You Daddy for the tools. I inherited his when he passed and along with mine think i am set on tools I do need a good torc wrench though. The trouble shooting a small engine i may need some experience but will learn. Thanks for the great video it gives me confidence that i can accomplish this and along with my SS live without having to be at work at 5:am as i do now.
The detail on your 163 cc rebuild videos is fantastic.
Thanks 👍
I always smooth up that crank on that pto side before I try to put the sump cover back on. New seal & lubed up before I slide it on the shaft. That corroded shaft can tear an old dried out seal & now there's a leaker.
Jake, I have a 09P602, 140 cc. And I have had no luck finding specs, I bought a Briggs&Stratton Repair Guide for Single Cyl OHV Air Cooled Engines that covers 97700 and 99700 Vertical Shaft engines which I thought would be close enough. Anyways, thanks for your video, a lot more helpful than the guide I bought.
What specs do you need? These aren't exactly F1 engines and torque measurements aren't very important if snug/tight.
This video has helped me so much thank you I can finally mow my lawn
Nice job, smart and clear thanks.
Glad it helped
Very well done. Experience shows.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very informative! Thank you!
Great video! Just noticing the half assed paint job by Briggs. Lol. Either paint the thing black or don’t. Instead they spray the bottom of the block and figure you won’t notice the paint missing from the cylinder head 😒
Thanks dude.
It`s a nice excursion to the inside of the engine!!! :) It seems to me, I have to do this, because of possible camshaft issues... Do you have an idea how to diagnose it prior to engine disassembly, please? Some people advised to check a special bounce of a decompression mechanism, manually rotating flywheel at the end of compression cycle... If no bouncing or clicking effect- camshaft needs to be replaced. However, this method is useful for more powerful engines. Is this still effective for this type of engine4s, or decompressor works differently here and no "bounce" is OK? Thank you
Thanks for your help an videos
Glad you like them!
ruclips.net/video/qRPSEnCQ5us/видео.html
Great video and very helpful. I have a question about the slinger and governor/crank arm. Using time 7:11 as a reference - how does the arm that is resting on the slinger interact with it when the motor is running? Isn't the slinger just slinging oil? How is the governor crank interacting with the slinger and how do you correctly set it? With the engine apart, and no springs attached, it just freely rotates.
The two metal parts on the governor are pivoting weights which push the center nylon pin out. The tip of the spinning pin pushes on the lever arm, which is connected the linkage that closes the throttle.
There is no adjustment inside the engine. The governor just pushes harder on the lever with increased speed, and an external spring pulling it back controls the RPM.
You should think of the assembly as primarily a governor. The oil slinger function is simply extra ribs on the spinning assembly.
awesome indeed sir. im just a little confused with the govener to the rod. i dont get how the rod works against the govener drive sprocket shaft.
Superb series of videos!!
I noticed that you didn't oil the parts prior to installation. I have seen other mechanics do that. Great job!
Assembly lube but coat of oil would be nice
Excellent video!, very good shots and very well explained, but such a job to rebuild an engine with plastic parts?...
I have an old Luv Bug riding mower.. 6.75 Briggs. I noticed the belt pulley attached to the bottom of the crank shaft comes in contact with the deck pulley when the deck is lifted to highest setting. There is a limited Clarence between these two pulleys. There isn’t any way to adjust the deck for it is fixed other than one adjustment to level it from left to right for even cutting. I come to find excessive up and down movement in the crank. Enough that it causes this clearance issue with the deck pulley. The engine runs great. I simply won’t use blade deck on highest level. I changed oil twice and put new carb, air filter and plug in and installed all new drive belts. This was a trash find. Cuts great! My question is how much life do you think is left in this engine and can the main bearing be replaced on the crank or is it possible wear in the crank that is causing this play?
Excellent!
Glad you liked it!
@@Jake.of.All.Trades Mine now runs as it shall. Success! :-)
this helped a bunch. Is pt.2 available?
I have a little bit left. I'll try to have it up this week.
@@Jake.of.All.Trades I was able to fix my motor today all thanks to this video. I used your other disassembly video and watched it backwards lol. My original issue was the connection rod blew up and cracked the motorblock. I used JB weld steelstik on the cracks and filed it all down. Its up and running thank you!
ruclips.net/video/qRPSEnCQ5us/видео.html
Thank you so much for the video! After I put the camshaft, the it turns only with the bracket loose. After I torque the screw 100 inch pound it would not rotate. Any ideas?
Do we have to lubricate the inside of the cylinder wall with a little bit of engine oil? I had to open my briggs 675 quantum push mower to change the gasket and to make sure I reset the governor correctly. I noticed some parts of the inside of the cylinder wall had some deep scratches. Deep enough to where I can feel the roughness with my fingers. I'm going to put it all back together, but I just want to know if I should put some oil on those scratched up spots on the cylinder wall? Thanks for your help.
Its the lubesystem only the part on the crankshaft,
Question: at around 16:30 I think you mix up the intake and exhaust rocker arm. Please check that because you also refer to the gap, which could be incorrect.
You may be right. The long arm is the exhaust valve and the short arm is the intake valve. I usually go .010 for exhaust and .005 for intake.
@@Jake.of.All.Trades would the valves cause hunting?
Or the governor adjustment? I set both of them. I'm pretty sure they are correct but now I get this surging.
Timing Question: I have just opened up an engine with a broken rod…the green timing gear notch is not aligned with the crank timing gear notch…out by approx 45 deg on the green cam gear…how can that be ???? Could a rod failure cause the gears to jump?
Yes
Jake, not much spec info on the B&S 675EXi motor, your videos were a great help. Any procedure for adjusting the governor?
Where can you get engine specs like journal diameter for example for the crank? Thanks great video
Is top dead center important when doing the valve lash
Are you sure about 220 in/lbs on the head bolt torque spec?
I pop the head off, just to have a see I put it back and tighten it back up.
Does this cause a problem?
Good job
Thanks
Not finding the link to part 2 of this series.
Found it.
What is the part number for the cam that fits this mower thanks
When is part 2 going to be uploaded?
here you go ruclips.net/video/qRPSEnCQ5us/видео.html
Superb video series!
I have just dismantled one of these engines and found that the green timing gear marker was NOT aligned with the marker on the crank gear…out by approx 45 degrees…how could that possibly be ??
The rod is broken but I assume a broken rod would not cause the timing gears to jump …or????
For what it's worth: my engine had a sheared flywheel timing key AND the black plastic timing gear on the crankshaft was in the wrong position because it's locating tab and sheared off too. That might explain your findings.
@@victorg2803
OK thanks Victor that makes sense. I wonder what would cause the key to shear in the first place ?
@@shortwavesurfer7222 Well in my case it must have been the blade hit a rock and stopped the rotation but the engine kept on going, shearing both the flywheel key and the crankshaft plastic gear. It took me four teardowns to realize both had broke! Maybe yours also hit something and broke the rod instead of the key but also sheared the plastic crankshaft gear tab.
Hi there how do you set up the governor on the top of the engine from rev too high please cheers Matt
where is a good place to find a complete rebuild kit?
Confused. When adjusting for valve clearance. The video showing you adjusting the valve with the long rocker,you called it the intake valve and you set it to 0.004. it is actually the exhaust valve. Did I miss understand that.
no, you're correct. I messed up.
I have one of this machine, but I have a problem: When I try to turn on, the cord is hard to move. I try to rotate shaft with my hand and I feel hard, I can move it but I ferl hard. What are the posibles issues?? Thanks.
Thank you for the video! I have an engine that was run with too little oil - it seized. I can turn it about 1/2 rotation, but it stops hard. What should I be looking for that is causing it not to turn fully?
Sounds like a blown connecting rod
Is the cam shaft plastic?
Yes
You from MN? Same here brother
Have you done the snowblower engine? 21M114 does the arrow on the piston go towards the PTO OR flywheel? And the rod, the PTO side goes to the rear and the MAG goes toward the front? Thanks.
intake valve is not the one u set as intake. u test the engine or only do for utube . ?
Can you tell me the model number of that engine, I have the same one and need the part number for the piston rings.
Thank you
where did you order your parts from???
No compression relief lever on cam??
Its on the other side of the gear near the lobes
You can see the lever riveted to the metal shaft at 6:01, 6:03 and 6:08
Used no assembly lube at all 👍😉
I got oil leaking from my valve cover
I have question
👍
Where’s teardown
Assembly lube !
Test
Plastic camshaft? Talk about planned obsolescence….
With a good oil film there is no direct contact. And if there is contact, the plastic is less likely to wear, and the wear material will be less of a problem in the oil.
Of course that doesn't address aging of the PA6.6 resin, but it should be fine long past the expected lifetime of the equipment its installed on.
Excellent video, thank you!