How to Reseat / Lap Valves (Basic Valve Job)
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- In this video i'm explaining how to reseat or lap valves in a flathead or overhead valve engine. Also can be called a valve job, but this is not a complete valve job. I also used to much valve grinding compound, it does not require a whole lot. Usually when a engine needs this done is when a engine has low compression that is found to be leaking around the valves, or sometimes a engine will backfire do to the valves not closing completely/properly. Thanks for watching.
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Thanks so much man, learning about this saved me hundreds of dollars. Rather do it myself than take it and have someone else do it, take a week and a half, and charge me bigtime. Rock on!
Well if anyones goin to use this vid for learning purposes then go on and do that `cause the guy does know what he´s doin`. His advise and instructions are advisable to others. Have no fear you can deal with your valves here. Titanium valves are used in modified engines or newer cars that have alot of horses, Valves as such are usually used for rpms over 8000rpm thats why they´re also light weight. And yes grinding them is NOT a good idea at all. 6 valves would run about 800-900 bucks.
Never knew how to do a valve job and I been twisting wrenches for 20+ yrs. I do now though. Good Vid Dude!
I never knew how or what was involved for reseating and lapping valves so thanks for taking the time to show that.
your welcome, glad to help out, thanks for watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 That is called a "valve lapping operation".
"Valve grinding" requires a valve grinding machine ($$$) AND a valve seat grinder.
(More $$$). For most light valve jobs, LAPPING is normally good enough.
My husband and I were really enjoyed watching the video. You are a good teacher. We had tried to set values on 16.5 Briggs. Found out they were sticking, which caused the back firing. Didn't know how it worked until we watched your video. Great job explaining it. Thank you for being on You Tube with these videos.
A few weeks ago I bought a couple of vintage Briggs and Stratton flathead engines.
Neither one worked when I got them but I cleaned the carbs and repaired the starter
clutches on both and got both of them running. Thanks for all the help.
Your welcome, glad to help out. Thanks for Watching!!!
turned out, the carb was fine, save the seal between the tank and carb, the flywheel key had sheared, so it was about 60 degrees off on the flywheel. 95 cents and about an hour of work, she runs like an absolute champ.
thank you, i just cant get anyone to explain this stuff to me so im learning little by little from guys like you that take time to make the films and post them, one day i will rebuild a whole engine, i already fixed my variator :) im pleased with that so far .
Your welcome! I hear ya! Thanks for Watching!!!
thanks for making the video. If like me, you don't rebuild motors, this beats reading a manual. I tore my 14 hp Kohler apart this winter and so far have seen every aspect of the rebuild on you tube. I love the internet!
Your welcome! I have rebuilt several motors, and i do have a 4 part video on rebuilding a 12.5HP briggs and stratton, which covers alot of briggs engines (all small engines are very similar in construction). It does come in very handy! Thanks for Watching!!!
oh wow! thats low! I rebuilt a 12.5 horse last summer and it had a burnt valve, i didn't do a compression check on it, it still ran, i dug through my parts, and found a good used one for it. thanks for watching!!!
hmm good question. i don't usually go by hours, i usually only have to do this when i rebuild a motor. but briggs says most engines should last around 2000 hours of use before needing rebuilt, so i'd say to do preventive maintenance (stop valves from burning) maybe do it after 1000-1500 hours (guessing), then again when it needs rebuilt. some motors can last a really long time. just depends on how well there taken care of. sorry i could't be more specific. thanks for watching!!!
thanks. i have a 4 foot fluorescent light right above my workbench, really helps alot on these videos! What i plan on doing soon to my workbench will give more contrast on the videos, if it don't work out i'll go back to how it is now. thanks for watching!!!
This is the correct way to do it. It's not difficult and not something that takes long either, so never use a drill or lap in a complete rotary motion. 👍
Yeah, i have tried to use a drill and had bad luck with it. Thanks for Watching!!!
@seapeddler that probably would be better. i'm old fashioned i'm not big on modern stuff. and for lawn mower engines i would say this is all you need. your 100% right, don't get me wrong. thanks for watching!!!
You're wrong about one thing.... you said you're not the best about explaining things. I think you do an unbelievable job of not only videoing by yourself but explaining. These are some of the best RUclips video How To's, I've seen and you sound like a young man. Good for you.
haha I really appreciate that, I try to keep things as simple as possible. Yeah I'm 22, been on here since 2008 i think it was, thanks for watching!!!
I restored a 1973 JD 140 H3 Garden Tractor but had to send the engine and carb off to be gone through since I didn't know enough about it. I am not happy having someone do that kind of work for me, especially on a hobby project. I'm trying to learn as much as I can online and your videos are a lot of help. This winter, I plan on pulling the engine to clean and paint it again and see about checking gaskets and seals for oil leaks.
I know what you mean, you sound like me, i'd rather do all the work that way I know exactly what has been done to it/how it was done. You probably have already watched it but i do have a 4 part video on rebuilding a 12.5 horsepower briggs, but its similar on any brand or size small engine. Heard that, sounds like a good project for winter.
lol, because my experience, i did not chance my valve guide, then my spark plugs always busted, and alot of smoke still coming out the exhaust pipe, thank you bro, and nice vid..
Thanks, no problem! Always glad to hear that a video helped someone! Thanks for watching!!!
thanks! Its a fun hobby to get into! Use a wire brush (cup type) on a drill, don't put to much pressure down, let the brush do the work. Sometimes helps to soak it in a cleaner like carburetor cleaner before wire brushing it. Just don't do it with the valves out, as it will scratch up the seats. and make sure the piston is all the way up, so you won't scratch the cylinder. thanks for watching!!!
Thanks for showing this video on how to lap the valves. I just got the same tool and compound and have an engine waiting but wasn't sure how to do this - thanks again!
thanks! glad to help out! I doubt they will beat themselves into spec, if that was case then you would never have to reseat (lap) valves like i did in this video, now if they the valve or the seat was made of a soft metal like brass or aluminum, then yes i would think they could beat into spec, but then they would wear out faster too. So yeah to sum it up, i'd say this is the only way. If you put new valves in a engine without lapping it would start, but it would have loss of power and>>>
@TheFace3701 not a problem! yeah its pretty simple. good luck on your project. No problem, thank you for watching my video!
You did a good job...you put another brick in the wall of knowledge!
I used a good sized dab a hot glue and a flat drill bit in a drill, saved a lot of work
Very informative. Rebuilding an early-1990's vintage 5hp flathead because I got a little tired of it not having any compression
+Charred Steak I hear ya, yeah most of the time valves are the cause for low compression in flathead motors. Thanks for Watching!!!
Sir , personally I think you are doing very good at explaining different things
Appreciate that! Thanks for Watching!!!
THANKS YOU !!! after 6 hrs of videos you showed what I needed to know. How to get the valves out of a Briggs OHV . That one little trick is what I needed. You are very good and I truly Thank You !!! for making these videos. You have helped me a ton.
thats how i've always done it, after reseating the valves you check clearance, then go from there, if the clearance is to small you grind down, if its to big, you can either reseat it more (if its just a few .001" off or welded the valve stem and grind to spec. thanks for watching!
glad it helped you out! Yeah the guides is a lot more complicated, usually a machine shop will have to do that, unless you have a milling machine and press in your garage. I'm not really sure how much they charge to do it, you might call around just to get a idea. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks for making this video. I need to do this to a car engine and I only had an idea on how to do it. It doesn't look too difficult and it's worth a shot to save an engine. Thanks again.
@workensmart thanks i really appreciate it, i got a ton more to make! yeah i know all about the emissions, whats the point? its not like they can "confiscate" all of our old flatheads haha you still see l heads on some pushmowes, not many though. thats why i try to get every flathead i can, i'm running out of room to store my engines in haha thats why i garage keep my mowers, my grass cutter is a 70's montgomery ward, bought new and garage kept since then, still looks new, no rust or ....
@1972FordF150 yeah i'd say it just needs a new diaphragm. well the block has to be bored out, then the block is heated (makes it easier) with a oxy acetylene torch or baked in a oven for a while then the sleeve is pressed in. I've never done it myself but i hope to get into machining so i can bore these motors out myself and sleeve them.
9 years in, this video is still very helpful, thanks
I hear ya! Your welcome, hanks for Watching!!!
@FuzzyMcButterWink i hear ya, glad my video helped! thanks!! and thanks for watching!
Excellent video. Covered, lapping, removing valves and installing valve springs.. Can't go wrong..
Appreciate that! Thanks for Watching!!!
makes sense! i always use to much of anything. my dad told me i use to much compound haha I realize now that a little dab is all you need, same with grease on lawn mower wheel bushings (plain bearings) don't need much at all! Thanks for Watching!!!
@SirSmighty thank you. it is possible, can't say until its tore apart, it may have a burnt valve, and if it burns oil too, then it needs new rings (rebuild) but yeah, take a look at the valves, might just need reseated. if its overhead valve (OHV) then check valve clearances, it can cause that to if the they are set to tight and the valves aren't closing all the way. or might be a bad compression release. list goes on haha thanks for watching
no problem, glad to help! thanks for watching!!!
Your explanations were actually pretty clear to me,
@arturomartinez1983 a finer grit will give a better finish, rougher grit is good if you have bad pits. Usually what is done is a rougher is used first (if necessary) then a finer to finish it off, like sanding. Mine is 34A grit which is a universal grit, its Permatex brand, i've never had any problems with it, seats/valves come out looking new. I'd recommend what i use (34A) hope this helps, thanks for watching!!!
Good job,we use to do this in shop class,good to see some body sticking to the old school method.
Lcy Grl Thanks! I hear ya, i think you get better results because you can actually feel and hear it cutting, the drill method is faster and more aggressive. But it works as well. Thanks for Watching!!!
oh wow. Yepp your right, I don't guess i've come across one with the Stellite valves yet! learn something everyday. I just looked it up, some say the coating is like .040" and it is possible that you can grind through it, but i don't know if its the same thickness as what i was reading (auto site), I would suggest emailing briggs, on their site when you email them you can fill out your model info, i'm sure they can tell you what to do.
Brigg has valve guide tools to ream the guides and install the bushing. You use a drill. Get the valve off the seat and rock it sideways to check for wear. It should have a little side movement. Let a machine shop replace the seat. Don't use a drill. Sleeves may be N/A! Install inserts in the head bolt holes. Maybe use next to standard OS rings. File them to about .005-.006. Check the end gap at the bottom of the ring travel. To replace guides, it's easy but the tools cost. Don't hone with a cyl. hone, use sandpaper. Put a cloth under the head to remove the springs on riding mowers. Check for valve seals!
thanks for that! i hear ya. its a pretty simple process, but on flatheads you have to watch the valve clearance, because its hard to adjust on flatheads, because if its to tight, you have to grind the valve stem, or if its to loose you have to weld it up then grind down to spec! its a pain, but most of the time its within spec and you don't have to do that! thanks for watching!!!
glad to help! thanks for watching!!!
Enjoyed the vid. Ive got an old Sears snowblower (1962) with a tecumseh engine that Im going to rebuild this summer. Thanks!
Not sure why, but the video gets to 3:26 then stops playing, even though the counter continues. This could just be a problem with my flash player or something, but it's really annoying since I'm planning on reseating the valves on my hijet when I take it apart, and videos like this are really helpful.
your welcome, glad to help out thanks for watching!
Dude you're a top bloke. Good to know there are people like you out there :) I've gotta go do 24 of these now so I best be off
appreciate it! your welcome, thanks for watching!!!
Thats a good idea! Look it up, its what your supposed to do in small engines, and works fine in any engine. I don't like running a drill, it can wear your valve guides. thanks for watching!!!
Thank you for sharing this video. I have been working on my own cars for many years but never knew how to lap valves. Your video is excellent! I drive a 1966 Chevy Corvair Monza and hope I don't need a valve job, but at least I understand how it's done.
Your welcome! I hear ya, its simple really, but one thing i didn't talk about in the video is you have to make sure your valve guides are good, if there is to much play the valves still won't seal perfectly. I hear ya! Can not beat older vehicles. thanks for watching!!!
@fnaguitarplayer9 I heard that they have a assembly plant in China for other parts of the world like over there, but the engine blocks are made in Mexico from what I heard, and assembled in Wisconsin. And yeah I have a 12 HP I/C Briggs and I just started it for the first time in 4 days and it started as fast as I could turn the key WITH NO CHOKE. Those are some damn good engines I wish they still made them.
Very good thanks for the tips. Keep teaching us with such simplicity I'm no mechanic and now I can do that.
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Recommended this video on my channel because this is a very good explanation on lapping valves. Hope you get a lot more views! I'm watching this because I am getting ready to do a valve lapping job myself on a Briggs flathead and I wanted to review how it's done. Thanks
You have been a big help because i have ask you some questions awhile back about what valves clearance settings for overhead valves and a couple days later you reply back to me with the right settings number i have had that lawnmower for over a year it wouldn't never started up as soon as i sets the valves the same way you told me at top dead center it ran like a sewing machine Thanks man
Freddie Johnson glad to help out, if you ever need anything else feel free to ask! Thanks for watching!!!
Great Video! I'm doing my first rebuild (Kohler 181s) and watching someone do this is SO helpful!
i hear ya! glad to help out! thanks for watching!!!
not saying your wrong, but i've never had any problems reseating valves this way, now valve grinding is different. Thanks for Watching!!!
Hey Buddy, I went out and pick up the same tool at NAPA, worked great! After I finished I found a good way to check if the valve is seating good ... Spray some WD 40 or 3 in 1 oil around the valve and make a puddle around the edges of the Valve. If it drains quickly you do not have good seat. If the puddle hangs out for a while you have a good seal. Don't use Brake cleaner or contact cleaner, It will evaporate and throw you off. Just my 2 cents.
I hear ya! I've heard of that before, i've done it a few times, works pretty good. Thanks for Watching!!!
No problem! I hear ya, this is actually one of my favorite things to do on a engine, i don't know why haha thanks for watching!!!
@SirSmighty yeah. i bought mine at harbor freight, but you can buy them just about anywhere like advance, napa or autozone. yeah might be the best thing to do, especially with the chipped piston.
Great video. You're a better teacher than you give yourself credit for. Thanks for the video - please make more!
yeah thats a advanced valve lapping/valve job, hardly ever have to do it on these small engines, yeah i definable don't recommend using a drill to lap valves, i tried it one time and it just didn't feel right to me, felt like i was grinding the valve guides! thanks for watching!!!
You explain this stuff pretty well, better than most I've seen on YT. They've been helpful as I attempt a first time rebuild. Please keep making these videos. They are appreciated
The Serdi machine which hones the valve seats concentric/parallel with the guides is the most proper way, but perhaps not applicable to flatheads. When the valvespring is reinstalled in this situation, the valve may be held askew of the seat. This will lower compression regardless of valve seat / valve face concentricity.
I also learned in class that you should lift and smack the valve down on the seat and rotate it a good bit when doing this.
FYI Valves are hardened steel a drill chuck is pot metal. Hardened steel Vs Pot metal Steel wins. So the chuck won't mess up the valve. I do all mine with that method. But then again I am doing it to a V6 so quite a few valves there so I have to find quicker ways to do it.
Also if you spray wd-40 in the intake and exhaust ports and let it sit for a bit you'll see if any are leaking. The oil will run out past the valve. But the springs need to be installed.
On a car engine with an iron head the valves usually need about 5 passes especially if they are bad and pitted a bit.
I also heard of a removing one of the suction cups and putting the lapping tool in a drill and then lapping it that way. I tend to switch back and forth on the drills forward and reverse setting and lift it every so often so it gets a good seat.
Good tutorial on doing this the valve surface on the exhaust valve you did was very nice and even all the way around.
evilcowboy That is true, i never thought of that. I've done that once or twice on OHV motors, but you can do it on these flat heads unless you do like you say remove the cup and use the drill. Thanks appreciate that! Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9
no problem man. Like I said you did an awesome job explaining the process and the seat and valve looked flawless.
evilcowboy This is actually one of my favorite repairs to do, I'm planning on working on a 11 horse briggs here in the next week or so, the valves need reseated on it, I'm planning on making another video, showing more of what to look for on a actual repair. Yeah it turned out pretty good on this one, surprising too since the valve guides are worn so much on it haha
fnaguitarplayer9
lol yeah you should see the engine I am working on. It got screwed bad. Someone didn't change oil in it and it spun a bearing and seized. Crank is gone and so is the no 1 rod.
It's a 3.8L V6 GM. The valves had such terrible gunk on them they had to be lapped 5 times for a proper seat. They still had the margin and looked decent with no problems so I decided to reuse everything and just throw in new valve seals.
The heads look good now the block is reusable but the crank is getting pulled from a working engine tomorrow and the pistons are gonna be re-ringed and it should be good to go from there.
Good luck on your next engine. I'd like to hear it run when you finish up so videos for starting it. I'm probably gonna do some vids of my first start after my rebuild as well.
evilcowboy
oh wow, that ain't no good, Sounds like a complete rebuild, hopefully it will run like a new one once its done! Shame it ruined the crankshaft, thanks, I probably won't be rebuilding any until next spring/summer, i don't have much time to do anything anymore.
great video, straight to the point, without the life story... Awesome video!
+doug h Appreciate that! Yeah i try to stay the point, but every now and then i might get sidetracked! Thanks for Watching!!!
Oh contrary, you explained it just fine. In fact I like your videos because you're to the point without the bs like some that like to here there self talk. Thanks bro
Thanks! I try to stay focused on the video and not talk about non-related stuff. That aggravates me like crazy, try to watch a video on how to do something and someone talks for ever about nothing haha Thanks for Watching!!!
@1972FordF150 not sure myself, from what i gather there also made in Thailand. i don't know if all there blocks are made there or not. Like i said in another comment, i hate the fact they quit making 12 horse flatheads, those engines are so reliable!
Glad you like them! I try to keep things as simple as possible but still technical enough to get info out of it. Will Do! I can't do much this time of year, I hope to make alot more videos this summer! thanks for watching!!!
great vid, thanks a ton... now i get to start on my motorcycle... all 16 valves... fun
That was a good job, you explained it well.
Thanks mate for taking the time to do this video. Nice and clear
@kbj76 glad to help. Thanks for watching!
this vid has helped me loads while im rebuilding my kohler k301 ,done valves and piston rings now runs as sweet as a nut,thanks for sharing,,, supergem
supergem Glad to hear it helped you out. Good to hear! Always glad to hear when a rebuild/restoration goes good. Your welcome, thanks for watching!!!
@Mikej1592 hahahaha i hear ya haha. oh OHV motors you can chuck up the valve stem in a drill, while the valve is in the head, alot of people do that, especially on bigger engines like V8's, saves time, but i don't think it does quite as good, i did it one time on a OHV briggs, and it just didn't feel right to me haha i'm sure you could find a way to get a suction cup in a drill and do the same for a flathead engine too haha thanks for watching!
12 years old and still relevant!
You did just fine, man. I'm feeling confident I can grind the valves now. I would like to replace the valve guides and I presume that's a bit more involved.
yeah it could be causing it. be sure to check your clearance on both valves after reseating. running to rich can cause backfiring some too.
@billyrowe0064 Yes it is a Briggs and Stratton, its a 5 horse (model 13), this came off a mini bike, but they are very popular on go karts and mini bikes. They are also found on tillers. They are some of the best engines ever made, any of the briggs flathead engines. thanks for watching
What a great job explaining the procedure...I'm rebuilding an H60 Tecumseh and this is the first time I've ever broke down a small engine. It comes off anAriens snowblower and I really want to bring it back to life. One question I have is how to get te burnt carbon/oil off the top of the valves and piston head. Thanks for any help. Keep up the great work...
Gunna be rebuilding a head soon and this is the best vid ive come across. Big thanks.!
No problem! Yeah, the purpose of 2 is in case your valves are in rougher shape (pitted), you would use the coarse first then go back over with the fine, think of it like sanding wood, you start with a coarse grit to do the "rough in" then you finish up with a fine grit to smooth it out. If you don't use a fine after the coarse the valve may not seal properly, I use a medium grit, just one step, i've never had any problems. But the 2 step method is best. Thanks for Watching!!!
@frank48164 i hear ya. i'm not a big fan of tecumseh engines, but they are good engines when they are running good. i always have carburetor trouble with them. i prefer briggs over any brand. yeah its pretty simple, but the hardest part is setting valve clearance on flathead engines, OHV is no problem. They tend to build up carbon, you should see a 3 horse i was working a month ago, it had a quarter inch of carbon in it haha no problem, thanks for watching!
Yup. The angle of the worn seat will likely be different from the new valve. Lapping will get them nicely evened out.
thanks! You say it stops running, does is bog out or just shut down like turning the key off? Ifs its bogging down it is a bad belt and or pulley, if its just shutting off then its probably a bad safety switch somewhere, could be any of them, either the reverse or deck. I usually bypass all of the switches on my mowers haha don't do that yourself though! like my maintenance video, after the oil change when i started it, the clutch was out its dangerous with out them! thanks for watching!!!
thanks! That sounds like fun! haha thanks for watching!!!
@griffen5552010 thanks. no problem. haha ehhhh. i can't tell you for sure. i know engines like the 3 horse and 3.5 horse and 12 and 12.5 are all the same, i don't know about the 5.5 and 6. If the model is the same (first 1-2 digits of the model is the same then it "should" work. I can't say for sure. But if your getting a good deal on the crankshaft, i'd reccomend going ahead and getting it, then even if it don't work, you might need it for another engine eventually. thanks for watching!
that valve is setting in the center of the valve seat and that's where it is supposed to be, if the valve is riding to high or to low on the seat, then the seat needs reworking.
Yep, when its in the center you know everything is lining up right, i have had them be offset and used another valve and that corrected it, i guess the angle changes. Thanks for Watching!!!
@SirSmighty yeah feel free to post a video response. no problem, glad to help. good luck on your project!
- Frank
oh wow! haha i'll have to keep that in mind when i run out of compound!!! thanks for watching!!!
@fnaguitarplayer9 in the nutshell he said that he was surprised by the wooden gadget, ignore him, great video!
@Stratau no problem. thanks for watching
@1972FordF150 yeah thats probably all it needs. i know what ya mean. i got about 5 motors i want to rebuild, it costs so much to do it. i got several that needs bored out, and few that needs sleeved.
Excellent explanation, will give this a try with one of my spare engines!
However watching fiatnutz channel he cuts the valve seats at three different angles, that's got to be more precise than this could be surely?
Really appreciated your explanation. And showing how to do it. Great help!
+Yvonne Behrens Your welcome, always glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
@kevykev38 yes it does. It really needs to valve guide bushings installed. And i will have it done before i do anything with this motor.
Yesterday I lapped the valves on one head of my old Goldwing- I didn't think to look on here until today- I'm just about to return the valve spring compressor and wanted to make sure I had done it right- which apparently I had- I used the same Permatex compound and chocked 'em up in a cordless drill. I was mostly curious what color and how wide the seating surface was supposed to be (as in is that grey area like on here okay-) looks like you've done this a few times, thanks for the video
Yes you will still need to lap the valves, even with new valves and/or new seats, this just ensures a complete seal. I'm in WV Thanks for Watching!!!
Do you have a video on how to separate halves of engine to do the gasket? I have a Cub Cadet 16 horse single cylinder overhead valve engine. The Briggs engine looks close.