Thank you for troubleshooting the provided switching supply rather than just replacing it right away. It gives those of us that already have these units insight into possible failure modes and how to remedy them.
I have done some further testing and have determined the mode of failure and a possible solution. I will be posting a follow up video relating to this shortly.
This is like a season-ending cliff hanger episode. Must watch part 3 now! =) Looking forward to it greatly Jerry....please don't keep us waiting too long, the pandemic is bad enough! lol
Holy Mother of Watts! What a little beast! I took a quick squiz, and there doesn't seem to be anything cheap in the 70v range from a good manufacturer. However, the Meanwell SE-600-36 is on sale for $67 from Jameco, and two of those in series would net you 72v at 16.6A 😁 With remote sense even! Only hickup being that they don't run PFC, so you might annoy your power company 😬 Also, what a coincidence! A few days ago I convinced myself to get a ut61e to replace my old fluke 101. Then I decide to see what you've been up to, and imagine what I see on your bench! Hopefully I made a solid choice! 👍😁
My primary application for my RD6012 is for battery charging. I wanted a flexible supply that could provide higher currents at lower voltages for larger batteries. I like the monitoring capabilities of this unit when connected to the provided software so that I can keep an eye on how the charge is progressing without being there. I have the temperature sensor run outside of the case so I can tape it to the side of the batteries I'm charging. It would be more convenient if there was a connector on the front panel for this purpose.
Hi Jerry. very nice video as usually. With my RD6006 I used a 600 watts power supply. With 360 watts maximum, I have some "space" ah ah Chinese products we never know !!!
The manufacturer doesn't seem to have taken the inefficiency of their own system into account, the label on the side says 70 volts at 11.4 amps which is 718.2 W, something has got to give or be working in the "red zone". They allow you to take liberties but not for too long so "fair do's" to them. "Doh I wish I hadn't said that" was a classic by the way, really made me laugh"
I think it had shut down before. Did you watch it for the hour you left it running? Only the AH counter in the bottom. Right. Was less than 1Ah. Which would mean it had only been running for around 6 minutes. I have this supply. I use a 1500w buck boost and 12v 1200w server psu.
Fuses do a poor job of protecting electronic devices. A fuse can run at 150% of its rating for many SECONDS before actually opening. I'll be curious to see what kind of noise you get out of that supply and if changing that diode helps.
It is a firmware function and so would be easy for them to implement. As I mentioned in one of my videos if they made the OVP and OCP global settings independent from memory settings then this would make the supplies much safer (in my opinion). Having these settings loaded at the same time as selecting a memory seems to totally negate their purpose. Some people may like the way the supplies work but I would not allow them to be used in my company development lab or repair workshop because of the way this feature currently works.
The 1601 is only a 160W supply compared to the 6006 360W so they are not really comparable. If you go for the 6012 it is a 720W supply. It really depends on what you are looking for. If I only needed a 160W supply then a linear option may be better.
There appear to be two case versions and it appears I got this one that has some very short mains leads that attach to the switch and plug. Very annoying. smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B083LVCYP6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Any thoughts on this? Presumably, I mistakenly clicked on the case for the RD6006?
Sorry but that is incorrect. The controller is not 100% efficient and nor is the SM supply. The input power to the 6012 was 819W. The current was 11.9A which is above the 11.4A limit. Input power to the overall suppy was 948W. The output power (720W) is not the same as the input power and will always be significantly lower. From the above figures we was also see what the efficiency is, RD6012 is approx 88% and the SM supply is approx 86%.
@@First2ner You have a lot more faith in these cheap supplies than me. Anything over 80% of specification is usually optimistic. I am sure that if they could add 5% to the spec then they certainly would (12A sounds better than 11.4A). That is actually why I purchased these items as I wanted to see if the kit parts would meet the spec because it seemed odd specifying an 800W supply for a 720W(output) power supply bearing in mind the efficiency testing I had done on the RD6006 because I doubted that they had doubled the efficiency. Also bear in mind that these are average currents and the peaks will be higher so I would have expected a supply rated at 1000+ W. I used a 600W supply in my RD6006 for this reason.
There does seem to be a lot of dubious quality products coming out of China. Having said that the reason I decided to buy this 'kit' was because I fully expected it to fail. After testing the RD6006 and getting the efficiency results I could not see how an 800W supply could be sufficient. Especially as most of these supply specifications state that they should not be run at >80% of rating for more than a few minutes so technically I was running the product outside the manufacturers rating but that being the case the kit supplier should not be using it. For my RD6006 I used a 600W supply and for the RD6012 I would expect to see 1000W as a minimum. WIth around 90% efficiency then at 720W output the RD6012 needs 800W but allowing for 80% operation then this should be 1000W.
Thank you for troubleshooting the provided switching supply rather than just replacing it right away. It gives those of us that already have these units insight into possible failure modes and how to remedy them.
I have done some further testing and have determined the mode of failure and a possible solution. I will be posting a follow up video relating to this shortly.
Thank you for showing failures. That's the best way to learn.
Thanks a lot for doing these tests, and for explaining why thing fail and what should have been designed/put together different.
This is like a season-ending cliff hanger episode. Must watch part 3 now! =) Looking forward to it greatly Jerry....please don't keep us waiting too long, the pandemic is bad enough! lol
Holy Mother of Watts!
What a little beast!
I took a quick squiz, and there doesn't seem to be anything cheap in the 70v range from a good manufacturer.
However, the Meanwell SE-600-36 is on sale for $67 from Jameco, and two of those in series would net you 72v at 16.6A 😁
With remote sense even!
Only hickup being that they don't run PFC, so you might annoy your power company 😬
Also, what a coincidence!
A few days ago I convinced myself to get a ut61e to replace my old fluke 101. Then I decide to see what you've been up to, and imagine what I see on your bench! Hopefully I made a solid choice! 👍😁
My primary application for my RD6012 is for battery charging. I wanted a flexible supply that could provide higher currents at lower voltages for larger batteries. I like the monitoring capabilities of this unit when connected to the provided software so that I can keep an eye on how the charge is progressing without being there. I have the temperature sensor run outside of the case so I can tape it to the side of the batteries I'm charging. It would be more convenient if there was a connector on the front panel for this purpose.
I sincerely thank you for learning a lot.
Thank You for the videos Jerry. I always buy higher rated PS to use in RD products.
Hi Jerry.
very nice video as usually.
With my RD6006 I used a 600 watts power supply.
With 360 watts maximum, I have some "space" ah ah
Chinese products we never know !!!
Excellent, congrats 🎉👏🎉👏🎉👏🎉👏🎉👏🎉👏🎉👏
A larger image detail would be nice.
Regarding the heat, the block you elevated the supply with appears to be reducing the air inlet grill area.
The manufacturer doesn't seem to have taken the inefficiency of their own system into account, the label on the side says 70 volts at 11.4 amps which is 718.2 W, something has got to give or be working in the "red zone". They allow you to take liberties but not for too long so "fair do's" to them. "Doh I wish I hadn't said that" was a classic by the way, really made me laugh"
Excellent.. this was my question from your part-1.
SO are you recommending with going with a higher quality supply, a higher power supply, or both?
I think it had shut down before.
Did you watch it for the hour you left it running? Only the AH counter in the bottom. Right. Was less than 1Ah. Which would mean it had only been running for around 6 minutes.
I have this supply. I use a 1500w buck boost and 12v 1200w server psu.
Wonder if you can find a nice Noctua fan to replace that one?
I will be using this to precision charge my batteries: lead-acid, 14 V powerbank and a ebike battery.
Fuses do a poor job of protecting electronic devices. A fuse can run at 150% of its rating for many SECONDS before actually opening. I'll be curious to see what kind of noise you get out of that supply and if changing that diode helps.
I wonder if changing the over voltage and current protection to separate settings could be done by a firmware update or is it hard wired?
It is a firmware function and so would be easy for them to implement. As I mentioned in one of my videos if they made the OVP and OCP global settings independent from memory settings then this would make the supplies much safer (in my opinion). Having these settings loaded at the same time as selecting a memory seems to totally negate their purpose. Some people may like the way the supplies work but I would not allow them to be used in my company development lab or repair workshop because of the way this feature currently works.
How do you view the RD6006 vs something like the NPS 1601 for a starter unit?
The 1601 is only a 160W supply compared to the 6006 360W so they are not really comparable. If you go for the 6012 it is a 720W supply. It really depends on what you are looking for. If I only needed a 160W supply then a linear option may be better.
There appear to be two case versions and it appears I got this one that has some very short mains leads that attach to the switch and plug. Very annoying.
smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B083LVCYP6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Any thoughts on this? Presumably, I mistakenly clicked on the case for the RD6006?
I want to correct you, you did not pull 12A out of the supply, 12A at >69v would be 830w. You were in below supplies rating of 11.4A, just...
Sorry but that is incorrect. The controller is not 100% efficient and nor is the SM supply. The input power to the 6012 was 819W. The current was 11.9A which is above the 11.4A limit. Input power to the overall suppy was 948W. The output power (720W) is not the same as the input power and will always be significantly lower. From the above figures we was also see what the efficiency is, RD6012 is approx 88% and the SM supply is approx 86%.
@@JerryWalker001 ok, I expected to have higher efficiency. But still that is less than 5% overload, wouldn't expected it to blow
@@First2ner You have a lot more faith in these cheap supplies than me. Anything over 80% of specification is usually optimistic. I am sure that if they could add 5% to the spec then they certainly would (12A sounds better than 11.4A). That is actually why I purchased these items as I wanted to see if the kit parts would meet the spec because it seemed odd specifying an 800W supply for a 720W(output) power supply bearing in mind the efficiency testing I had done on the RD6006 because I doubted that they had doubled the efficiency. Also bear in mind that these are average currents and the peaks will be higher so I would have expected a supply rated at 1000+ W. I used a 600W supply in my RD6006 for this reason.
Aren't "Chinese" and "badly designed", synonymous? Are there any well designed Chinese products?
There does seem to be a lot of dubious quality products coming out of China. Having said that the reason I decided to buy this 'kit' was because I fully expected it to fail. After testing the RD6006 and getting the efficiency results I could not see how an 800W supply could be sufficient. Especially as most of these supply specifications state that they should not be run at >80% of rating for more than a few minutes so technically I was running the product outside the manufacturers rating but that being the case the kit supplier should not be using it. For my RD6006 I used a 600W supply and for the RD6012 I would expect to see 1000W as a minimum. WIth around 90% efficiency then at 720W output the RD6012 needs 800W but allowing for 80% operation then this should be 1000W.
@@JerryWalker001 Thank you for the great informative content, much needed and much appreciated.
So after all it seems that the fan is actually temperature based controlled.
Is it by means of this green component ? (noob here)
imgur.com/a/4yVajDo
Link sho to off save vietnams thanh you