Very Informative and well explained, especially regards to the case screw touching the positive cap solder point. The good thing with buying electronic goods from the far East is that it has opened doors for the average hobbyist and/or enthusiast to acquire test/electronic equipment at very good prices. But we take for granted that once assembled and the unit powers up that it's safe to work. I come from electronics/telecommunications background and with modern equipment you still need to be aware of some of he pitfalls and hazards especially with AC/DC etc... Saying that I will be looking to build the exact same SMPS and hopefully if all goes well with PAT test it will be one of main Bench PSU's. Great Video... Thank You
Thanks, I totally agree that some of the cheaper offerings may be cheap but can still offer something that would be impossible to obtain otherwise without spending considerably more. As long as buyers appreciate them for what they are are and do not have unrealistic expectations then I think some are definitely work considering. Hopefully videos such as this will help others to determine if it is work the risk.
Glad you mentioned that. I just put mine together and those bottom screws didn't cause a problem but I measured them and they were a bit long. I put washers under them to be safe.
I just bought the same kit and thank you for the bolt warning on the bottom. I did not cut mine, I made spacers using my 3d printer. The thickness of the spacer is 3mm and works great. I am going to add a fuse as a precaution as well...
It may have just been specific to the type of supply I used but it seemed worth mentioning. My supply was fused but as the short was effectively 'inside' the SMPS it did not blow. I would use delrin for the spacers as PLA may soften if the supply gets hot. Interestingly I carried out some experiments a few years ago to see if I could 3D print some mounting washers for toroidal transformers but anything over 60C and they fail very quickly (change shape and get loose), hence the delrin in the video later in this series. Let me know how your supply works as it is always interesting to hear from other builders.
@@JerryWalker001 Actually I used PETG which is much like ABS. A much better alternative to PLA. I measured the depth of the threads on the bottom of the supply and noted there was a 3 mm clearance. The bolts were at least 2 mm too long. So the spacer fixed that.
How do you find printing with PETG? Also I am currently looking around for a new 3D printer. I have 2 but am looking for something a little more professional. Currently I am considering this one. 3dgbire.com/products/raise3d-pro-2?variant=7283219071029
FYI: If anyone interested, you can find my custom firmware for RD6006. If you have any ideas, wishes, what to change or add in to the firmware, or found bugs, just let me know. www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/ruideng-riden-rd6006-dc-power-supply/225/ monitor.net.ru/forum/threads/651114/page-6
This is probably the best set of videos I have found on this power supply!!! Great job!!!! My only question is the interior psu. I noticed you decided to go with the fan connect to the psu and with the top off. Wouldn’t it run cooler keeping the top on and leaving the fan as is and then adding the included fan and controller. I have seen other tutorials on these guys products where they turned the included fan to run based on temp. I’m just curious your thoughts.... freaking great work👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks. It is normally a bad idea to run multiple fans as they can 'fight' each other and actually reduce air flow. Also I did not want 2 fans running as this would make the supply noisy. Having a fan on the inside supply would only ever move air from inside the inner cover to outside the inner cover so simply removing the cover eliminates the need to that fan. All that is then needed is a fan to remove air from the supply outer enclosure. During testing the temperature at full load of the hottest part of the system never gets above 40C. Taking all the above into account meant that a single fan was by far the best solution (in my opinion).
If you are using the fan on the rear of the case then it should be pushing air 'out' of the rear of the case. This will draw air in through the slots at the front of the case and past the controller and internal supply and then out the rear of the case. I put the fan sensor on the hottest part of the internal supply. This means that most of the time the fan is off and the supply is silent and it only turns on when the supply starts to heat up at high power output levels.
Jerry Walker you Rock!!!! I plan to build one today and post on my RUclips channel. I’m not going to go in depth as you did, but I do plan on mentioning you and your channel! Great information you have on this model from A-Z. Thanks for the videos and the tips👍👍👍👍👍
LOL!! just chatting with RD Tech. The temperature probe was meant to use externally. For example, battery temp when charging. i may make an extension and add a removable plug face-mounted to the side. i don't like the idea of it dangling from the btm like they say to do. hopefully the fix this design in the future...
It's easier to wire up the back hardware 1st before mounting the driving power supply. I preferred to keep both fans in so there will be *MORE* air flow! -- Leaving the cover *OFF* the switching power Supply means introducing more *NOISE* !!
I find it easier to fit the supply first so the wires can be arranged to properly suit the supply used. Having multiple fans does not always mean more air flow as they can 'fight' each other and the results I obtained were very good as the temperature remains very low even at full power. I tested the supply with both covers on and off and it made no difference to the 'noise'. I did a lot of work investigating the noise issue before posting my video about it. As I say int he videos it is up to the individual to build the supply as they prefer. There is no real right or wrong way as long as the result is properly tested.
The unit barely gets warm and the fan does not cut in until fairly high power is reached so the internal temeperature never goes over 45C at the hottest part so the single fan is sufficient. I normally find that as long as a reasonable air flow is possible over the internal parts then temperature is not a problem and having another noisy fan in the lab can be avoided. It will be interesting to see how the linear version will perform.
I'm really leery about Chinese power supplies on the bench. I've had too many of those kinds of switchers burn up because the manufacturer used what appear to be Shenzen floor sweepings for the major components. I have a couple Power Designs linear supplies from the early 1990's for most of my work.
I will be making a tear down video of one of the RD6006 shortly. I am also making a linear back end version. I am currently carry out a lot of detailed testing on the first unit I built and so far it is looking very good. All the components are used well within their rating. I agree that the vast majority of cheap switching supplies are very poor but there are some reasonable ones out there. For critical testing and development I would only ever use linear supplies but I needed some high power supplies and out of all the units I have tried this is the best so far for the price. Naturally it would be possible to go 'up market' and spend a lot on high end supplies but I have also had quite a few Agilent (etc) supplies fail so price does not always guarantee reliability (but it helps).
Can I just check if you did connect a ground cable from the Power Supply ground to the Chassis? I have the same kit, and when I powered mine on (without the Riden connected yet), it blew the fuse (and tripped my breakers). The only difference was that I did have a ground cable going from the Power Supply to the Chassis. Another curiosity - was that I notice that the Fuse is on the Neutral line and not the Live one. Is that the same as in yours and all others, and isn't that abnormal? Thanks for your great videos....I'll rewatch Part 2 and 3 now....! :-D
Yes I connected ground to chassis and mains ground. If this blows your trip then the supply has a fault and I would advise not using it. The fuse should be in the live (brown) line. I also modified my supply and disconnected the green terminal post from the internal circuit and connected it to ground (I will not want the battery charge function).
@@JerryWalker001 Thank you Jerry! That's most helpful! Yes, I'll get a replacement supply - been watching videos on SMPS repair and it does sound a bit too hairy :-D
Why not turn the case fan to push air into the case. It would blow across the PS and feed air to the front panel fan. I plan on doing this build and I think that is how I will do it.
You can arrange it however you think best. Blowing air in from the back of a unit is generally a bad idea and having the rear fan fighting the front fan may cause problems.
It depends on the supply current. At 6A it needs around 2.5V or it becomes unstable. The RD6006 has an overvoltage input protection and as the linear supply is unregulated then it is not possible to go any higher than I have unless a pre regulator is used or the unloaded voltage will trigger the over voltage protection. It would certainly be possible to build a linear back end to give a higher input voltage but I only needed 55V so this is what I designed to. Also note that higher input voltage would also need larger input capacitors. However once the better rectifier is installed then I should get close to the maximum 60V output at full load. I set the output voltage on the switching version to 64V but of course this is a regulated voltage.
Yes it does seem a bit odd but the SMPS which I used in my switching version was also a 60V (nominal) supply and they are normally adjustable by +/-10% so in theory you can adjust them from 54V to 66V. I set mine to around 64V and this allows for the full 60V at 6A. I would advise checking that the supply they recommend allows adjustment.
Karol K RD tech / Riden have a video on assembling the power supply. They show how to adjust the voltage to 65V. Here it is: (check at 2:00) ruclips.net/video/RMRuErdv2LM/видео.html
Just put mine together and checked there are 3 installed. There's a spot for a fourth but it's unused. I'm not going to worry about it unless I get too much ripple or something.
There are 3 case sizes, the one in this video, a double height version of this and a short version (about a third of the length, ideal for portable with 3s/4s lipo)...
EEVBlog is way too superficial to be useful. It’s like a Weather Channel news service. Dave’s just trying to jump on stuff as fast as possible and pump out a crap video so he can claim his turf. Just ignore him.
Could you kindly add a link to a picture of where you connected the temperature sensor and how you wired it to the RD6006 please? That will be immensely useful. Thank you.
Which sensor, there are 2. The fan control sensor plugs into the fan control board and the battery sensor plugs into the RD6006 board. The connections are shown in the manual.
@@JerryWalker001 Thank you for replying. No, I thought you had used the IR Temperature monitor to find the best place to put the temperature sensor under a particular portion on the PCB. Hence my question. By the way, your videos are immensely helpful and informative. Please keep up the good work of sharing knowledge.
@@3dprinting208 Oh so you meant where was it sensing? The hottest part of the system was the heatsink that the rectifier was fitted to (on the linear version) and the main switching device in the switching supply (on the switching version). I determined this using thermocouples and located the sensors (both fan and display) in the hottest spot. I could not use the IR camera as the supply cover needs to be fitted when making the tests.
@@JerryWalker001 Thank you for the prompt reply. I bought the entire kit from Banggood and the Power Supply was from a manufacturer called Geekcreit not the Meishile one. Just after connecting the powersupply and turning on, the fuse blew up and I guess something else blew inside - as I resoldered another fuse I found lying around and that blew up too. I have now ordered the Meishile powersupply directly from them via Amazon instead of Banggood. Will let you know how it goes once I get it hooked up. Are there any precautions to take when connecting these power supplies? I am not a professional and am just getting into electronics. I dont want the 2nd power supply to blow up as well. Other forums seems to suggest that its best to open the packaged power supply and let it sit for 2 days in the open to ensure no moisture is present. Any ideas you could share please?
@@3dprinting208 Which fuse blew? I would advise connecting the switching supply to the mains before fitting it into the case. Make sure the screws holding it into the case are not protruding into the supply and shorting it. Once it runs outside the supply then fit it to the case and try again before connected the RD6006. Adjust the switching supply to 65V. If the fuse still blows then most likely the RD6006 is faulty but this is fairly unlikely.
WTF? Ruideng Answer for NOT WORKING Pc Software connection trough WiFi! "Problem is NOT WORKING on Pc Software in WiFi connection!-- this is your only problem ? our products only support wifi for phone App, not PC software .. " Hangzhou Ruideng Technology Co., Ltd 2/F, Block B, Building 1, No. 2628, Yuhangtang Road, Cangqian Sub-district,Yuhang District, Hangzhou City,Zhejiang Province, China
This is one of the best Power Supply👍👍👍🤝🤝🤝
Very Informative and well explained, especially regards to the case screw touching the positive cap solder point. The good thing with buying electronic goods from the far East is that it has opened doors for the average hobbyist and/or enthusiast to acquire test/electronic equipment at very good prices. But we take for granted that once assembled and the unit powers up that it's safe to work.
I come from electronics/telecommunications background and with modern equipment you still need to be aware of some of he pitfalls and hazards especially with AC/DC etc...
Saying that I will be looking to build the exact same SMPS and hopefully if all goes well with PAT test it will be one of main Bench PSU's.
Great Video... Thank You
Thanks, I totally agree that some of the cheaper offerings may be cheap but can still offer something that would be impossible to obtain otherwise without spending considerably more. As long as buyers appreciate them for what they are are and do not have unrealistic expectations then I think some are definitely work considering. Hopefully videos such as this will help others to determine if it is work the risk.
Glad you mentioned that. I just put mine together and those bottom screws didn't cause a problem but I measured them and they were a bit long. I put washers under them to be safe.
I just bought the same kit and thank you for the bolt warning on the bottom. I did not cut mine, I made spacers using my 3d printer. The thickness of the spacer is 3mm and works great. I am going to add a fuse as a precaution as well...
It may have just been specific to the type of supply I used but it seemed worth mentioning. My supply was fused but as the short was effectively 'inside' the SMPS it did not blow. I would use delrin for the spacers as PLA may soften if the supply gets hot. Interestingly I carried out some experiments a few years ago to see if I could 3D print some mounting washers for toroidal transformers but anything over 60C and they fail very quickly (change shape and get loose), hence the delrin in the video later in this series. Let me know how your supply works as it is always interesting to hear from other builders.
@@JerryWalker001 Actually I used PETG which is much like ABS. A much better alternative to PLA. I measured the depth of the threads on the bottom of the supply and noted there was a 3 mm clearance. The bolts were at least 2 mm too long. So the spacer fixed that.
How do you find printing with PETG? Also I am currently looking around for a new 3D printer. I have 2 but am looking for something a little more professional. Currently I am considering this one. 3dgbire.com/products/raise3d-pro-2?variant=7283219071029
The quality of the 6006 and case is on par with any professional equipment I have bought, even allowing for the price difference...
Hi Jerry, can you please add a link for your 60v power supply? Other than that excellent job. Stay safe!
For battery, a *CR1225* will work fine as well.
Pretty much any CR12xx battery will work (12mm diameter) as the battery holder accepts different thickness cells.
Thank you.
FYI: If anyone interested, you can find my custom firmware for RD6006.
If you have any ideas, wishes, what to change or add in to the firmware, or found bugs, just let me know.
www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/ruideng-riden-rd6006-dc-power-supply/225/
monitor.net.ru/forum/threads/651114/page-6
This is probably the best set of videos I have found on this power supply!!! Great job!!!! My only question is the interior psu. I noticed you decided to go with the fan connect to the psu and with the top off. Wouldn’t it run cooler keeping the top on and leaving the fan as is and then adding the included fan and controller. I have seen other tutorials on these guys products where they turned the included fan to run based on temp. I’m just curious your thoughts.... freaking great work👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks. It is normally a bad idea to run multiple fans as they can 'fight' each other and actually reduce air flow. Also I did not want 2 fans running as this would make the supply noisy. Having a fan on the inside supply would only ever move air from inside the inner cover to outside the inner cover so simply removing the cover eliminates the need to that fan. All that is then needed is a fan to remove air from the supply outer enclosure. During testing the temperature at full load of the hottest part of the system never gets above 40C. Taking all the above into account meant that a single fan was by far the best solution (in my opinion).
Jerry Walker awesome explanation!!!!So should I have the fan in push or pull? Thanks for explaining!!!!
If you are using the fan on the rear of the case then it should be pushing air 'out' of the rear of the case. This will draw air in through the slots at the front of the case and past the controller and internal supply and then out the rear of the case. I put the fan sensor on the hottest part of the internal supply. This means that most of the time the fan is off and the supply is silent and it only turns on when the supply starts to heat up at high power output levels.
Jerry Walker you Rock!!!! I plan to build one today and post on my RUclips channel. I’m not going to go in depth as you did, but I do plan on mentioning you and your channel! Great information you have on this model from A-Z. Thanks for the videos and the tips👍👍👍👍👍
LOL!! just chatting with RD Tech. The temperature probe was meant to use externally. For example, battery temp when charging. i may make an extension and add a removable plug face-mounted to the side. i don't like the idea of it dangling from the btm like they say to do. hopefully the fix this design in the future...
It's easier to wire up the back hardware 1st before mounting the driving power supply.
I preferred to keep both fans in so there will be *MORE* air flow!
--
Leaving the cover *OFF* the switching power Supply means introducing more *NOISE* !!
I find it easier to fit the supply first so the wires can be arranged to properly suit the supply used. Having multiple fans does not always mean more air flow as they can 'fight' each other and the results I obtained were very good as the temperature remains very low even at full power. I tested the supply with both covers on and off and it made no difference to the 'noise'. I did a lot of work investigating the noise issue before posting my video about it. As I say int he videos it is up to the individual to build the supply as they prefer. There is no real right or wrong way as long as the result is properly tested.
@@JerryWalker001 - I get your point! Thanks.
mount the fan in push/pull for maximum airflow. those little fans don't have much static pressure
The unit barely gets warm and the fan does not cut in until fairly high power is reached so the internal temeperature never goes over 45C at the hottest part so the single fan is sufficient. I normally find that as long as a reasonable air flow is possible over the internal parts then temperature is not a problem and having another noisy fan in the lab can be avoided. It will be interesting to see how the linear version will perform.
I'm really leery about Chinese power supplies on the bench. I've had too many of those kinds of switchers burn up because the manufacturer used what appear to be Shenzen floor sweepings for the major components. I have a couple Power Designs linear supplies from the early 1990's for most of my work.
I will be making a tear down video of one of the RD6006 shortly. I am also making a linear back end version. I am currently carry out a lot of detailed testing on the first unit I built and so far it is looking very good. All the components are used well within their rating. I agree that the vast majority of cheap switching supplies are very poor but there are some reasonable ones out there. For critical testing and development I would only ever use linear supplies but I needed some high power supplies and out of all the units I have tried this is the best so far for the price. Naturally it would be possible to go 'up market' and spend a lot on high end supplies but I have also had quite a few Agilent (etc) supplies fail so price does not always guarantee reliability (but it helps).
Can I just check if you did connect a ground cable from the Power Supply ground to the Chassis? I have the same kit, and when I powered mine on (without the Riden connected yet), it blew the fuse (and tripped my breakers). The only difference was that I did have a ground cable going from the Power Supply to the Chassis. Another curiosity - was that I notice that the Fuse is on the Neutral line and not the Live one. Is that the same as in yours and all others, and isn't that abnormal? Thanks for your great videos....I'll rewatch Part 2 and 3 now....! :-D
Yes I connected ground to chassis and mains ground. If this blows your trip then the supply has a fault and I would advise not using it. The fuse should be in the live (brown) line. I also modified my supply and disconnected the green terminal post from the internal circuit and connected it to ground (I will not want the battery charge function).
@@JerryWalker001 Thank you Jerry! That's most helpful! Yes, I'll get a replacement supply - been watching videos on SMPS repair and it does sound a bit too hairy :-D
Did you get the WIFI board also?
Why not turn the case fan to push air into the case. It would blow across the PS and feed air to the front panel fan. I plan on doing this build and I think that is how I will do it.
You can arrange it however you think best. Blowing air in from the back of a unit is generally a bad idea and having the rear fan fighting the front fan may cause problems.
I don’t like the thing it turns on itself when the input voltage from the smps is applied.
The RD6006 needs 1V extra on the input side so 61V should be sufficient. RD Tech recommends to set the power supply to 65V.
It depends on the supply current. At 6A it needs around 2.5V or it becomes unstable. The RD6006 has an overvoltage input protection and as the linear supply is unregulated then it is not possible to go any higher than I have unless a pre regulator is used or the unloaded voltage will trigger the over voltage protection. It would certainly be possible to build a linear back end to give a higher input voltage but I only needed 55V so this is what I designed to. Also note that higher input voltage would also need larger input capacitors. However once the better rectifier is installed then I should get close to the maximum 60V output at full load. I set the output voltage on the switching version to 64V but of course this is a regulated voltage.
Jerry Walker
This was a comment to the video where you install the 60V 10A SMPS 😝 but it’s interesting to know your considerations for the lineair ps.
Well, RD tech recommends a 60v power supply on Aliexpress which I actually bought. So how can I get 60v from power supply? 😁
Yes it does seem a bit odd but the SMPS which I used in my switching version was also a 60V (nominal) supply and they are normally adjustable by +/-10% so in theory you can adjust them from 54V to 66V. I set mine to around 64V and this allows for the full 60V at 6A. I would advise checking that the supply they recommend allows adjustment.
Karol K
RD tech / Riden have a video on assembling the power supply. They show how to adjust the voltage to 65V. Here it is: (check at 2:00)
ruclips.net/video/RMRuErdv2LM/видео.html
I got the same kit but it didn't output any voltage. Turns out they forgot to put in one of the four 470uF capacitors...
In mine too.. Did you add it?
@@davideiotti9725 No, I asked them to send me a new one and they did.
Just put mine together and checked there are 3 installed. There's a spot for a fourth but it's unused. I'm not going to worry about it unless I get too much ripple or something.
Hi. what is the rate voltage of the output capacitors ?
Regards
100V
A bench power supply of lesser quality would smell of feet.
Is the max current 10A or 6A?
The max current limit setting is 6.1A
Please send me purchasing link
Where did you source the case?
The case was from the same place as the RD6006. I think that all the sellers have both.
There are 3 case sizes, the one in this video, a double height version of this and a short version (about a third of the length, ideal for portable with 3s/4s lipo)...
EEVBlog is way too superficial to be useful. It’s like a Weather Channel news service. Dave’s just trying to jump on stuff as fast as possible and pump out a crap video so he can claim his turf. Just ignore him.
Could you kindly add a link to a picture of where you connected the temperature sensor and how you wired it to the RD6006 please? That will be immensely useful. Thank you.
Which sensor, there are 2. The fan control sensor plugs into the fan control board and the battery sensor plugs into the RD6006 board. The connections are shown in the manual.
@@JerryWalker001 Thank you for replying. No, I thought you had used the IR Temperature monitor to find the best place to put the temperature sensor under a particular portion on the PCB. Hence my question. By the way, your videos are immensely helpful and informative. Please keep up the good work of sharing knowledge.
@@3dprinting208 Oh so you meant where was it sensing? The hottest part of the system was the heatsink that the rectifier was fitted to (on the linear version) and the main switching device in the switching supply (on the switching version). I determined this using thermocouples and located the sensors (both fan and display) in the hottest spot. I could not use the IR camera as the supply cover needs to be fitted when making the tests.
@@JerryWalker001 Thank you for the prompt reply. I bought the entire kit from Banggood and the Power Supply was from a manufacturer called Geekcreit not the Meishile one. Just after connecting the powersupply and turning on, the fuse blew up and I guess something else blew inside - as I resoldered another fuse I found lying around and that blew up too. I have now ordered the Meishile powersupply directly from them via Amazon instead of Banggood. Will let you know how it goes once I get it hooked up. Are there any precautions to take when connecting these power supplies? I am not a professional and am just getting into electronics. I dont want the 2nd power supply to blow up as well. Other forums seems to suggest that its best to open the packaged power supply and let it sit for 2 days in the open to ensure no moisture is present. Any ideas you could share please?
@@3dprinting208 Which fuse blew? I would advise connecting the switching supply to the mains before fitting it into the case. Make sure the screws holding it into the case are not protruding into the supply and shorting it. Once it runs outside the supply then fit it to the case and try again before connected the RD6006. Adjust the switching supply to 65V. If the fuse still blows then most likely the RD6006 is faulty but this is fairly unlikely.
WTF? Ruideng Answer for NOT WORKING Pc Software connection trough WiFi!
"Problem is NOT WORKING on Pc Software in WiFi connection!-- this is your only problem ?
our products only support wifi for phone App, not PC software .. "
Hangzhou Ruideng Technology Co., Ltd
2/F, Block B, Building 1, No. 2628, Yuhangtang Road,
Cangqian Sub-district,Yuhang District,
Hangzhou City,Zhejiang Province, China