Very good explanation..especially to a new guy to a laser. I've been doing cnc for many years but this laser is a whole new ball game. Your experience on this is about a 1/4 mile ahead of me; I'm glad you still see and understand those behind you, and can address my beginner issues.
I've only got a total of 6 months experience with lasers and this software. With no prior woodworking or crafting experience either. So, I not really addressing anyone "behind" me. Cause I'm still figuring it out. This is the first real attempts at doing inlays. I'm sure there are better ways and I'll figure them out. And happy to share what I learn as I learn it.
It’s been a long time since you made this video, and it helped me tremendously. Before any of us had our Roly’s.) My thoughts on the whole inlays vs proper inlay thing is that it takes a long time to cut out a void for my inlay and it has a greater chance of not working. But it takes minutes (maybe seconds) to through cut 1/8” or 1/4” material and the matching inlays, adjusted for kerf, are a perfect friction fit. I can then laminate to a matching (or contrasting) piece of material underneath and the mirror image on the reverse side is eliminated. I have more confidence in my ability to laminate than to get to a perfect void.
Thanks for the sub! I've done a few videos of my attempts using inlays. Some where I'm completely cutting out a design and placing an insert of the design from a different material in the other. The last few were dealing with using thinner hardwoods and creating pockets for them to fit into.
This was using the diode. Flood fill and offset fill provide two entirely different results for me. Offset fill works from the outside perimeter inwards constricting as it engraves. It can also result in undisired results. But flood fill moves bilaterally and provides and even constant result. I use both. But while offset fill can save a ton of time, if I'm concerned about the final result, I refrain from using it.
@@HoboWithWood Yes, flood does work better on the diode, but on the Co2, folks don't dial in their min power, so they gat bad results and don't use it. You don't have min power setting on the diode, so that's why the results are bad. *If* you know how to use the laser, offset fill works great on the Co2, but most folks don't. The only bad results I get on the diode is sharp corners. Anything smooth works well.
Thanks for your time and information. I really like the quality of material I get from Ocooch Hardwoods. I have no affiliation. I was on deadlines for Christmas gifts and my local hobby shop finally went out of business sadly. Their stock is superb. Happy New Year
I've looked at their website. It's not that different from the guys I'm dealing with. In fact, you might be getting a little bit better pricing. Happy New Year's to you, too.
It is simply creating a sublayer. I used the black (00) layer to do the 50mm/s @ 60% PWR fill mode using cross hatch. Then created a sublayer using the line mode at 40mm/s @ 30% PWR. Then followed that with a third sublayer using the flood fill technique using the same 40mm/s at 30% PWR. A total of four passes on the pocket all done from one layer using sublayers.
For thin stock hardwoods I look for sellers that cater to the scroll saw person. One caveat regarding purchasing thin hardwoods I bought several pieces from a seller in the desert southwest and when it arrived in my humid Missouri shop it all twisted.
That is something I never thought of. I do let any wood I purchase acclimate to my shop before working with it. But I never thought of the impact of buying from a region with such a difference in climate and the impacts it may have. Fortunately I have a warehouse within driving distance that has ALL kinds of exotic hardwoods on hand and ready for lasering. I'm in NC. If I can workout a "deal" it might be a great source for you. More to come after first of the year. Stay tuned.
This is the primary reason I make my own veneer. I can buy exotic wood lumber or bowl blanks and, using my bandsaw, I can make veneer about 3/32” thick which is perfect for doing inlay work.
Find an airplane propeller manufacturing shop! They are always looking for twisted wood! Lowes home improvement is a great source for twisted wood. Rarely is straight wood found there.🤣🛫
Love how he explains everything
Very good explanation..especially to a new guy to a laser. I've been doing cnc for many years but this laser is a whole new ball game. Your experience on this is about a 1/4 mile ahead of me; I'm glad you still see and understand those behind you, and can address my beginner issues.
I've only got a total of 6 months experience with lasers and this software. With no prior woodworking or crafting experience either. So, I not really addressing anyone "behind" me. Cause I'm still figuring it out. This is the first real attempts at doing inlays. I'm sure there are better ways and I'll figure them out. And happy to share what I learn as I learn it.
@@HoboWithWood I've only got a couple weeks into my laser. So, that's why you're worthy of guruhood to newbies like me. Keep up the good work!
Thank you. Don't forget to check out the new channel for lots of FREE projects. youtube.com/@lasermakersrealm
GOOD JOB. THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP. WE CAN LEARN TOGETHER.
Thanks for watching!
Very Helpful, Thanks for taking the time to share!
Glad it was helpful!
It’s been a long time since you made this video, and it helped me tremendously. Before any of us had our Roly’s.) My thoughts on the whole inlays vs proper inlay thing is that it takes a long time to cut out a void for my inlay and it has a greater chance of not working. But it takes minutes (maybe seconds) to through cut 1/8” or 1/4” material and the matching inlays, adjusted for kerf, are a perfect friction fit. I can then laminate to a matching (or contrasting) piece of material underneath and the mirror image on the reverse side is eliminated. I have more confidence in my ability to laminate than to get to a perfect void.
It’s a great video
Awesome video ❤ thanks guy 😎 this helps me a lot
Wonderful.. just went and subscribed to Laser Maker's Realm !
Took the day off yesterday. Just now catching up on messages. Thanks for the sub.
Thanks for your advice! I’ve been searching on how to do this. Subscribed!
Thanks for the sub! I've done a few videos of my attempts using inlays. Some where I'm completely cutting out a design and placing an insert of the design from a different material in the other. The last few were dealing with using thinner hardwoods and creating pockets for them to fit into.
Great job loved it
Remember, flood fill is mostly used for diode lasers, and actually has been replaced by offset fill.
This was using the diode. Flood fill and offset fill provide two entirely different results for me. Offset fill works from the outside perimeter inwards constricting as it engraves. It can also result in undisired results. But flood fill moves bilaterally and provides and even constant result. I use both. But while offset fill can save a ton of time, if I'm concerned about the final result, I refrain from using it.
@@HoboWithWood Yes, flood does work better on the diode, but on the Co2, folks don't dial in their min power, so they gat bad results and don't use it. You don't have min power setting on the diode, so that's why the results are bad. *If* you know how to use the laser, offset fill works great on the Co2, but most folks don't. The only bad results I get on the diode is sharp corners. Anything smooth works well.
this has been very informative subbed ;)😀
Thanks for the sub!
Thanks for your time and information. I really like the quality of material I get from Ocooch Hardwoods. I have no affiliation. I was on deadlines for Christmas gifts and my local hobby shop finally went out of business sadly. Their stock is superb. Happy New Year
I've looked at their website. It's not that different from the guys I'm dealing with. In fact, you might be getting a little bit better pricing. Happy New Year's to you, too.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I've been Kerfed, Thank you, Tho, line after Fill? I get the concept but is there a setting for that or just create a layer
It is simply creating a sublayer. I used the black (00) layer to do the 50mm/s @ 60% PWR fill mode using cross hatch. Then created a sublayer using the line mode at 40mm/s @ 30% PWR. Then followed that with a third sublayer using the flood fill technique using the same 40mm/s at 30% PWR. A total of four passes on the pocket all done from one layer using sublayers.
@@HoboWithWood I have not done the sub-layers yet. I saw your line had said multi I was wondering about that. Now I get it. cool Thank you.
It used to be a setting, but the setting has been removed. Now you do it by adding a sublayer.
For thin stock hardwoods I look for sellers that cater to the scroll saw person. One caveat regarding purchasing thin hardwoods I bought several pieces from a seller in the desert southwest and when it arrived in my humid Missouri shop it all twisted.
That is something I never thought of. I do let any wood I purchase acclimate to my shop before working with it. But I never thought of the impact of buying from a region with such a difference in climate and the impacts it may have. Fortunately I have a warehouse within driving distance that has ALL kinds of exotic hardwoods on hand and ready for lasering. I'm in NC. If I can workout a "deal" it might be a great source for you. More to come after first of the year. Stay tuned.
This is the primary reason I make my own veneer. I can buy exotic wood lumber or bowl blanks and, using my bandsaw, I can make veneer about 3/32” thick which is perfect for doing inlay work.
Find an airplane propeller manufacturing shop! They are always looking for twisted wood! Lowes home improvement is a great source for twisted wood. Rarely is straight wood found there.🤣🛫
Lol😂