So inspiring that you are sharing these amazing details with us. I have included these details for years on my remodels. I documented one of my projects in a "Deep Energy Retrofit" series on JLC. Thank you for bringing an up-leveled way of building to the masses, it is time we build better.
@buildshow I like how much you talk about rain screens, and agree they are a "best practice" item. It's good that you have shown several variations on your channel, and discussed different gap sizes and why you would want one over the other. One thing I would love to see more about is how to keep pests ( mostly bugs) out of the rain screen. I am sure there are products/practices to do this, but more information about them would be greatly appreciated. Also details for keeping bugs out of head flashing, outlet boxes and other penetrations that need that drainage/ air flow opening. In my area mud daubers, yellow jackets, and even honey bees LOVE to get in behind siding and trim if they can. Maybe even a comparison/guide of what systems are better for different pests/weather considerations. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge of quality building practices. It is very helpful even for non builders to see what a quality build involves, and the benefits that can be had for a very reasonable cost difference over typical code built houses.
Nice! Exactly how the 1st layer pre-pitch works on a traditional 3pc pan build. I do similar testing on my pans b4 pouring top layer of pan to 100%, make sure all weeping holes are functioning properly so shower pan dries out quickly & thoroughly between showers. Bullet-proof system if done correctly. Take care. KOKO ("KEEP ON KEEPEN ON")!
I personally would not use the zip Rainscreen product behind LP SmartSide or any other wood-based siding; I would be concerned that it would hold water against the backside of the siding via capillary action even though the membrane is perforated. It was developed for use behind masonry and stucco, not wood siding. I would use wood slats or Cor-A-Vent strips to increase both drainage and drying potential behind the wood siding. Looks like a very viable option for use with fiber cement siding in a rainscreen wall assembly, however.
Why not use AZEK for the window trims? No rot ever and if you want white trims the classic is already white. I have done it and I love it. Windex, a paint brush to loosen the dust, and a hose and they look like new. Totally agree on leaving the screw holes not caulked. We use a small head screw that uses a T15 or T10. The screws are pre-painted white so the heads just blend in.
Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. I'm a homeowner in central FL, getting 50-60" rain/year. Currently in an old house with felt/fibrous board sheathing (not sure correct term) and T1-11 that is rotting/eaten up by woodpeckers and has to be replaced. So we have decided on Hardie once we find a good contractor. The house does not feel solid, and I would like to tighten it up. What would you recommend as far as sheathing? I'm thinking maybe leave the felt/fiber board stuff and sheet over it with Zip board (or something that helps insulation/blocks sound). Then it looks like we definitely need the rain screen of 3/4 inch in this climate. I'm interested in your opinion on materials and technique for re-siding a 1979-1980 house; it will help guide me to a contractor that knows what he's doing. (Have been taken advantage of before.) Or if you happen to work in CFL would love to talk to you :-)!
Again, nice work on your builds. Just commented on your weeping demonstration of the zip system. The one area that I wouldn't recommend hardie board is in the shower for backing. It is extremely difficult to counsinsink screws. That's why they came out with different screw heads to help out with this issue about 20+ yrs ago. Permabase made by national gypsum comp out of CA is a much better board to use in showers if it's not a traditional fatmud wall floating system. KOKO
Does Hardie no longer require a gap at butt joints for expansion and contraction? Last time I used Hardie lap siding-which admittedly was a decade or so ago-I was told I needed to leave a minimum 1/8” gap at butt joints and corner boards or my warranty would be voided. This installation has mitered corners and no gaps at butt joints leaving no room whatsoever for expansion and contraction. Isn’t this asking for trouble over time? The Awesome Framers in WA stop the siding just short of the adjacent board at the corner and then install butt-jointed corner boards over the top of the siding, leaving the gaps at the siding bevels open for additional ventilation.
Matt said the Zip System rain screen is cheaper than just using 1-by material? I'm very skeptical. How is this this multi-layer high tech laminate made in a factory cheaper than raw lumber?
I bet the truth of the matter is that Huber paid for it. At the end of the video, Matt shows us the section of the wall with the 1-by vertical slats...which is probably how the project started. Then Huber wanted to showcase Rainscreen. All the window and door trim had already been sized to account for 3/4 inch thick slats, not 1/4 inch wrap. When they switched to the 1/4 inch Rainscreen, all that trim now looks goofy, sticking out an extra 1/2 inch. No thanks. Slats can be put up quickly, the material is cheaper, and the airflow is better.
Two questions: I know on other videos, Matt has recommended the pre-painted Hardie siding. Any reason why not to go with that other than color availability? Also, since when does Matt install bath fans? I thought ERV’s were basically a non-negotiable item now.
Yeah, the bath fans were quite a surprise and inconsistent with statements in previous videos. Maybe Nu-tone or Broan is a sponsor for this video series? It’s getting harder to distinguish between best practices and sponsored content with Matt’s videos.
So you use a 1x4 battens on top of the Zip sheathing as a sleeper for the Hardie siding to allow for a drying space?? What would you recommend for a stone veneer spacing, 1”??
When I build a pumicecrete house metal siding goes up first Metal siding is the pumicecrete form that stays in place Form and finished wall all in one My goal is to build a pumicecrete home for Community First in Austin Texas
Mortairvent makes a product that looks exactly the same, except different color, as the ZIP rainscreen. If you pressure wash your house, or have it pressure washed, then you might want to consider a rainscreen due to spraying water upward.
Matt it looks like you ran the depth of the cedar the same for the Hardie lap as you are going to for the brick ledge. I understand why you’d want it deeper to accept the brick, but why not make the lap siding depth less to match the thinner siding profile?
I’ve seen immersion tests on a building science channel that demonstrate nail perforations (and presumably staple penetrations) have no negative effect on the ability of the Zip sheathing to resist water penetration.
I always thought that the rain screen is a great idea but wondered if there’s a 1/4 gap that’s big enough for insects to get into.So that being said is there a solid starter strip to begin with?
Matt, I love your channel. When are you going to do a video deep dive on Omniblock? It's an internally insulated CMU block. I have no financial interest in it or relation to the company, but as someone who's planning their own custom dream build some day, it's been on my radar for a while and I'd love to see a professional's take on it like yours.
Omniblock is appropriate for the desert climate in Arizona where it was developed, but is not cost-effective for the vast majority of climates where a continuous vapor barrier is required and where more insulation is required to meet code since it provides only a relatively thin layer of insulation with an unsealed joint between each insulation insert. If you have to add a WRB with vapor barrier and more insulation (not to mention a cavity for running electrical and plumbing), you’d be much better off using conventional CMU or ICF (insulated concrete forms). The information on the Omniblock website is quite misleading, by the way.
@@MichaelJ674 Isn't the continuous vapor barrier required precisely because a wall is made of wood? If this is true, why are they building with it in Canada?
personal experience with Hardie ColorPlus, still had to hire a painter. Too many imperfections to touch up, paint did not fully cover the long edges of trim. Hardie customer service was great, but the ColorPlus product was not so much. Warranted once and still had the same issues, so I had a painter come out. Has anyone had similar issue?
The issue with the zip rain screen appears to be that it dries the sheathing side, but not the siding. So something like cedar would not dry properly since it's tightly in contact with the weather barrier face.
They already sell the matrix without the weather barrier attached, which is common for cedar siding. So you would keep your normal sheathing with weather barrier layer, then matrix, then siding.
Why not use stainless steel screws on the window frame? It only costs nominal more…. (4:30) Especially since you’re not caulking over the screws. (15:05)
Probably not necessary in the arid SW, but I would prefer to use SS screws in more humid regions and they are an absolute must in a coastal environment.
If the water gets behind the siding,how the hell does it get beyond the rain screen to dry .seems to me the rain screen should be reversed or at least not have a solid backer.?
I’ve heard elsewhere that the membrane on the Zip Rainscreen is perforated, but I’m still in total agreement with you on this. Zip Rainscreen was developed for use behind masonry and stucco, and I can see how it’s probably a viable option behind fiber cement siding. However, I would never use it behind any wood-based siding as I would be concerned the membrane would hold water against the back of the siding via capillary action (basic physics in my opinion). I would use wood slats or Cor-A-Vent strips to increase both the drainage and drying potential.
Not a hater, genuin question here: you are pro ZIP system instead of OSB. One of the pros you mentioned in the past it was to avoid the wrapping, but now, you are doing wrapping as well. Could you explain?
@@immemous zip is osb. Osbs failure is whenit gets wet is permeability decreases the wetter it gets, from inside or outside. Plywoods permeability increases the wetter it gets
Does this style of rain screen induce any waviness into the siding? It would seem it would unless you could VERY accurately control nail depth which is hard to do with hammer/gun. Anyone have experience with Hardie (or other Fiber Cement products) over this style rain screen?
I agree, especially in the south/ southwest due to high humidity. But due to price issues Fiber Cement is still a good secondary choice due to its rot resistance.
Huge mistake not putting a bug screen at the bottom and top of the rainscreen behind the siding. It’s hard to fathom considering Matt’s emphasis on managing insects during foundation work and framing and in past videos on his channel. The nubs on the Zip Rainscreen are not continuous leaving plenty of room for termites, carpenter ants, roaches, etc. to enter and nest. The homeowner will have to rely entirely on expensive and toxic chemical treatments for insect control behind the siding. It would have so easy to install a strip of Cor-A-Vent or similar braided nylon mesh at top and bottom of walls to maintain drainage and ventilation while keeping the bugs out.
Why wouldn't the drainage be on the siding side. The siding is against the WRB. Doesn't that defeat the purpose of preserving the siding and drying that side, where water is going to get in?
Same. It’s basic physics that the membrane side of the Zip Rainscreen will hold water against the back side of the siding via capillary action. If you flip the Rainscreen (nubby side out), you void the warranty from Huber. Probably doesn’t matter if you hold some water against the backside of fiber cement siding-especially in a place like Austin, Texas-but I would never use this product behind a wood-based siding. I would use wood slats or Cor-A-Vent strips to increase both the drainage and drying potential.
Love everything Zip, but will go against the grain on their rainscreen. This style I don’t think will ventilate the backside of the Hardy. It ventilates the zip sheathing/wall, but the hard is in the same position as if nailed to the zip sheathing. There is no extra ventilation airspace between the hardy and the rainscreen fabric. So the hardy won’t have ventilation…just the zip sheathing/wall assembly (which is good!). It’s just not going to provide the benefit to the hardy board like a 1x rainscreen would. With a tradition 1x system, the hardy is free floating between the furring strips, thus the ventilation of backside of hardy.
What is the need to vent the back of fiber CEMENT siding? Is not that one of the many advantages James Hardie has over the OSB or wood siding competitors?
@@MichaelJ674 I only mention it because Matt is saying that by venting the backside of hardie siding, you prolong the life of the paint by double. Which is indicative of the benefit to the boards overall, which I would think also extends the life of the board itself.
@@NK-ic6yt I only mention it because Matt is saying that by venting the backside of hardie siding, you prolong the life of the paint by double. Which is indicative of the benefit to the boards overall, which I would think also extends the life of the board itself.
That is correct. It was developed for use behind masonry and stucco, not “conventional” siding. See other comments about the potential downside to using Zipscreen behind wood-based siding, namely that it will hold water against the backside of the siding via capillary action.
Ask him why Hardie doesn't provide 2x trim. So you are using cedar all over because you can't get 2x trim from Hardie. Good point about the window trim, when putting in windows that last 10-15 years.
Doesn’t create a true rainscreen. Besides, you don’t have to provide a drainage layer between fiber cement siding and Zip sheathing. It is best practice, however, and there are lot ways to accomplish this from a 1mm drainage layer (HydroGap, e.g.) to a full 3/4” rainscreen gap for maximum drainage and drying potential. Not to mention continuous exterior siding options which are pretty standard on high- performance houses. Adding texture to the surface of the Zip sheathing would be a waste of money from my perspective, not a money grab.
So inspiring that you are sharing these amazing details with us. I have included these details for years on my remodels. I documented one of my projects in a "Deep Energy Retrofit" series on JLC. Thank you for bringing an up-leveled way of building to the masses, it is time we build better.
Loved the blue water experiment!! So helpful, thank you
@buildshow
I like how much you talk about rain screens, and agree they are a "best practice" item. It's good that you have shown several variations on your channel, and discussed different gap sizes and why you would want one over the other.
One thing I would love to see more about is how to keep pests ( mostly bugs) out of the rain screen. I am sure there are products/practices to do this, but more information about them would be greatly appreciated. Also details for keeping bugs out of head flashing, outlet boxes and other penetrations that need that drainage/ air flow opening.
In my area mud daubers, yellow jackets, and even honey bees LOVE to get in behind siding and trim if they can.
Maybe even a comparison/guide of what systems are better for different pests/weather considerations.
Thank you for sharing all your knowledge of quality building practices. It is very helpful even for non builders to see what a quality build involves, and the benefits that can be had for a very reasonable cost difference over typical code built houses.
Matt... really damn smart! Always interesting, but this video is just filled with great details. Thanks
Nice! Exactly how the 1st layer pre-pitch works on a traditional 3pc pan build. I do similar testing on my pans b4 pouring top layer of pan to 100%, make sure all weeping holes are functioning properly so shower pan dries out quickly & thoroughly between showers. Bullet-proof system if done correctly. Take care. KOKO ("KEEP ON KEEPEN ON")!
Everlast Siding! So overlooked!
LP smart side there warranty on their siding is much better than James Hardy
@@steveanderson4768 I put SmartSide on my house. Absolutely love it. It is so nice and warm looking.
@@steveanderson4768 You dont know shit then, LP is osb junk
I personally would not use the zip Rainscreen product behind LP SmartSide or any other wood-based siding; I would be concerned that it would hold water against the backside of the siding via capillary action even though the membrane is perforated. It was developed for use behind masonry and stucco, not wood siding. I would use wood slats or Cor-A-Vent strips to increase both drainage and drying potential behind the wood siding. Looks like a very viable option for use with fiber cement siding in a rainscreen wall assembly, however.
Great details, as always. Really wish I could make it out to the show.
Great details! We actually just put up a video today discussing the same topic utilizing a different kind of furring material!
Love the zip rain screen so much nicer then using wood
Why not use AZEK for the window trims? No rot ever and if you want white trims the classic is already white. I have done it and I love it. Windex, a paint brush to loosen the dust, and a hose and they look like new. Totally agree on leaving the screw holes not caulked. We use a small head screw that uses a T15 or T10. The screws are pre-painted white so the heads just blend in.
Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. I'm a homeowner in central FL, getting 50-60" rain/year. Currently in an old house with felt/fibrous board sheathing (not sure correct term) and T1-11 that is rotting/eaten up by woodpeckers and has to be replaced. So we have decided on Hardie once we find a good contractor. The house does not feel solid, and I would like to tighten it up. What would you recommend as far as sheathing? I'm thinking maybe leave the felt/fiber board stuff and sheet over it with Zip board (or something that helps insulation/blocks sound). Then it looks like we definitely need the rain screen of 3/4 inch in this climate. I'm interested in your opinion on materials and technique for re-siding a 1979-1980 house; it will help guide me to a contractor that knows what he's doing. (Have been taken advantage of before.) Or if you happen to work in CFL would love to talk to you :-)!
Again, nice work on your builds. Just commented on your weeping demonstration of the zip system. The one area that I wouldn't recommend hardie board is in the shower for backing. It is extremely difficult to counsinsink screws. That's why they came out with different screw heads to help out with this issue about 20+ yrs ago. Permabase made by national gypsum comp out of CA is a much better board to use in showers if it's not a traditional fatmud wall floating system. KOKO
Does Hardie no longer require a gap at butt joints for expansion and contraction? Last time I used Hardie lap siding-which admittedly was a decade or so ago-I was told I needed to leave a minimum 1/8” gap at butt joints and corner boards or my warranty would be voided. This installation has mitered corners and no gaps at butt joints leaving no room whatsoever for expansion and contraction. Isn’t this asking for trouble over time?
The Awesome Framers in WA stop the siding just short of the adjacent board at the corner and then install butt-jointed corner boards over the top of the siding, leaving the gaps at the siding bevels open for additional ventilation.
Matt said the Zip System rain screen is cheaper than just using 1-by material? I'm very skeptical. How is this this multi-layer high tech laminate made in a factory cheaper than raw lumber?
Perhaps the material cost is higher, not sure, but it looks like a time saver which could make it cheaper installed factoring in labor cost.
Labor savings for sure, also no nails shooting through your zip
But nobody shoots holes through building wrap?
I bet the truth of the matter is that Huber paid for it. At the end of the video, Matt shows us the section of the wall with the 1-by vertical slats...which is probably how the project started. Then Huber wanted to showcase Rainscreen. All the window and door trim had already been sized to account for 3/4 inch thick slats, not 1/4 inch wrap. When they switched to the 1/4 inch Rainscreen, all that trim now looks goofy, sticking out an extra 1/2 inch. No thanks. Slats can be put up quickly, the material is cheaper, and the airflow is better.
Good product ❤
The Zip rain screen doesn’t have any bug prevention? Pretty sure our ladybugs and cluster flys are going to move in.
Can you use the Paslode TetraGRIP nails for Hardie with the 1/4" air screen?
Two questions: I know on other videos, Matt has recommended the pre-painted Hardie siding. Any reason why not to go with that other than color availability? Also, since when does Matt install bath fans? I thought ERV’s were basically a non-negotiable item now.
Yeah, the bath fans were quite a surprise and inconsistent with statements in previous videos. Maybe Nu-tone or Broan is a sponsor for this video series? It’s getting harder to distinguish between best practices and sponsored content with Matt’s videos.
So you use a 1x4 battens on top of the Zip sheathing as a sleeper for the Hardie siding to allow for a drying space?? What would you recommend for a stone veneer spacing, 1”??
Been watching the build show for a couple years now. I find it disappointing that its turned into a series of infomercials.
Matt, why not take your drainage / ventilation gap into your vented soffit? It would make the detailing simpler.
would you recommend using rain screen for vinyl in eastern pa (40in+ rain/year)?
When I build a pumicecrete house metal siding goes up first
Metal siding is the pumicecrete form that stays in place
Form and finished wall all in one
My goal is to build a pumicecrete home for Community First in Austin Texas
Mortairvent makes a product that looks exactly the same, except different color, as the ZIP rainscreen. If you pressure wash your house, or have it pressure washed, then you might want to consider a rainscreen due to spraying water upward.
Matt it looks like you ran the depth of the cedar the same for the Hardie lap as you are going to for the brick ledge. I understand why you’d want it deeper to accept the brick, but why not make the lap siding depth less to match the thinner siding profile?
Especially if your architect is going for a more contemporary look as stated.
Wouldn't the staples used on the dimpled product break the water seal on the zip sheathing?
@@Luclin Yes, but so would the siding nails.
I’ve seen immersion tests on a building science channel that demonstrate nail perforations (and presumably staple penetrations) have no negative effect on the ability of the Zip sheathing to resist water penetration.
Can you find the project where you can make video with outside finishes details for bricks and stones?
I always thought that the rain screen is a great idea but wondered if there’s a 1/4 gap that’s big enough for insects to get into.So that being said is there a solid starter strip to begin with?
The material itself is a matrix that is not conducive to bugs. If you do 1×, then yes, you need a big screen, which is shown in this video.
Cor-A-Vent strips make a nice porous bug screen; same twisted nylon mesh as the Zip Rainscreen. There are plenty of other options..
Matthew ..would you explain how the outside corner on the lapped siding is cut.
Watch the video. Miter cut at 9:45 using 12” miter saw.
Matt, I love your channel. When are you going to do a video deep dive on Omniblock? It's an internally insulated CMU block. I have no financial interest in it or relation to the company, but as someone who's planning their own custom dream build some day, it's been on my radar for a while and I'd love to see a professional's take on it like yours.
I’m not familiar with that one. I’ll look it up. Thanks
Omniblock is appropriate for the desert climate in Arizona where it was developed, but is not cost-effective for the vast majority of climates where a continuous vapor barrier is required and where more insulation is required to meet code since it provides only a relatively thin layer of insulation with an unsealed joint between each insulation insert. If you have to add a WRB with vapor barrier and more insulation (not to mention a cavity for running electrical and plumbing), you’d be much better off using conventional CMU or ICF (insulated concrete forms). The information on the Omniblock website is quite misleading, by the way.
@@MichaelJ674 Isn't the continuous vapor barrier required precisely because a wall is made of wood? If this is true, why are they building with it in Canada?
It's a rabbet whether you use a router or not!
personal experience with Hardie ColorPlus, still had to hire a painter. Too many imperfections to touch up, paint did not fully cover the long edges of trim. Hardie customer service was great, but the ColorPlus product was not so much. Warranted once and still had the same issues, so I had a painter come out. Has anyone had similar issue?
@@erlinglasalle I used their primed product and couldn’t be happier. Takes paint extremely well.
Bummer to hear. I suspect you had an install issue that lead to this. My color plus Hardie looks fantastic 3+ years later.
That bottom board should line up with the bottom of the window
The issue with the zip rain screen appears to be that it dries the sheathing side, but not the siding. So something like cedar would not dry properly since it's tightly in contact with the weather barrier face.
Good point. What would you use?
They already sell the matrix without the weather barrier attached, which is common for cedar siding. So you would keep your normal sheathing with weather barrier layer, then matrix, then siding.
I’ve been making the same comment on Steve B. and Matt’s channels. I would use good old 1x slats or Cor-A-Vent strips.
No bug screen needed on the zip dimple mat?
My thoughts too..seems would be an attraction for pests
Why not use stainless steel screws on the window frame? It only costs nominal more…. (4:30)
Especially since you’re not caulking over the screws. (15:05)
Do you see the screw?
Probably not necessary in the arid SW, but I would prefer to use SS screws in more humid regions and they are an absolute must in a coastal environment.
If the water gets behind the siding,how the hell does it get beyond the rain screen to dry .seems to me the rain screen should be reversed or at least not have a solid backer.?
I’ve heard elsewhere that the membrane on the Zip Rainscreen is perforated, but I’m still in total agreement with you on this. Zip Rainscreen was developed for use behind masonry and stucco, and I can see how it’s probably a viable option behind fiber cement siding. However, I would never use it behind any wood-based siding as I would be concerned the membrane would hold water against the back of the siding via capillary action (basic physics in my opinion). I would use wood slats or Cor-A-Vent strips to increase both the drainage and drying potential.
Not a hater, genuin question here: you are pro ZIP system instead of OSB. One of the pros you mentioned in the past it was to avoid the wrapping, but now, you are doing wrapping as well. Could you explain?
Never mind, I just finished watch the video.
@@immemous zip is osb. Osbs failure is whenit gets wet is permeability decreases the wetter it gets, from inside or outside. Plywoods permeability increases the wetter it gets
Does this style of rain screen induce any waviness into the siding? It would seem it would unless you could VERY accurately control nail depth which is hard to do with hammer/gun. Anyone have experience with Hardie (or other Fiber Cement products) over this style rain screen?
Hardie does not recommend dimple mat under their siding.
What keeps the rain screen from becoming bug highway?
Should definitely have a bug screen as the nylon mesh nubs are discontinuous.
It would be good to see that home inspector, which is fb famous wound, get on checking out this home. Be going away with a lot of blue tape not used.
Metal siding is the best
I agree, especially in the south/ southwest due to high humidity.
But due to price issues Fiber Cement is still a good secondary choice due to its rot resistance.
Do it once do it right
is there a risk of ants and bugs climbing and making nests in the rain screen behind the siding??
Certainly that’s possible. I recommend a foundation ant control spray every quarter. I use Chem-Free pest in Austin TX for mine
Needs a bug screen at the bottom and top! The nubs in the rainscreen are discontinuous.
Did someone else have Build Show trademarked?
No, this is a special video series entitled The Risinger Build. There are lots of videos series under the Build Show umbrella.
I’m the first
Huge mistake not putting a bug screen at the bottom and top of the rainscreen behind the siding. It’s hard to fathom considering Matt’s emphasis on managing insects during foundation work and framing and in past videos on his channel. The nubs on the Zip Rainscreen are not continuous leaving plenty of room for termites, carpenter ants, roaches, etc. to enter and nest. The homeowner will have to rely entirely on expensive and toxic chemical treatments for insect control behind the siding. It would have so easy to install a strip of Cor-A-Vent or similar braided nylon mesh at top and bottom of walls to maintain drainage and ventilation while keeping the bugs out.
Ok
Why wouldn't the drainage be on the siding side. The siding is against the WRB. Doesn't that defeat the purpose of preserving the siding and drying that side, where water is going to get in?
I've been asking this question since the first time I seen it.
Same. It’s basic physics that the membrane side of the Zip Rainscreen will hold water against the back side of the siding via capillary action. If you flip the Rainscreen (nubby side out), you void the warranty from Huber. Probably doesn’t matter if you hold some water against the backside of fiber cement siding-especially in a place like Austin, Texas-but I would never use this product behind a wood-based siding. I would use wood slats or Cor-A-Vent strips to increase both the drainage and drying potential.
Love everything Zip, but will go against the grain on their rainscreen. This style I don’t think will ventilate the backside of the Hardy. It ventilates the zip sheathing/wall, but the hard is in the same position as if nailed to the zip sheathing. There is no extra ventilation airspace between the hardy and the rainscreen fabric. So the hardy won’t have ventilation…just the zip sheathing/wall assembly (which is good!). It’s just not going to provide the benefit to the hardy board like a 1x rainscreen would. With a tradition 1x system, the hardy is free floating between the furring strips, thus the ventilation of backside of hardy.
Probably not a big deal with cement fiber siding, but definitely a problem with wood-based siding.
What is the need to vent the back of fiber CEMENT siding? Is not that one of the many advantages James Hardie has over the OSB or wood siding competitors?
@@MichaelJ674 I only mention it because Matt is saying that by venting the backside of hardie siding, you prolong the life of the paint by double. Which is indicative of the benefit to the boards overall, which I would think also extends the life of the board itself.
@@NK-ic6yt I only mention it because Matt is saying that by venting the backside of hardie siding, you prolong the life of the paint by double. Which is indicative of the benefit to the boards overall, which I would think also extends the life of the board itself.
So really one only NEEDS to use that rainscreen when using brick or stone, but it’s OPTIONAL with other siding types???
That is correct. It was developed for use behind masonry and stucco, not “conventional” siding. See other comments about the potential downside to using Zipscreen behind wood-based siding, namely that it will hold water against the backside of the siding via capillary action.
No exterior insulation? Did I miss something, seems odd for Matt.
I "thought" that green OSB doesn't need anything. But it's cool, you don't install that stupid thin brick crap, I say as a 32 y.exp. mason.
I should probably watch entire video but what’s the black wrapping on the second floor and its purpose?
Keeping painting, trade employed I guess with his junk!!!!!!
Low maintenance siding but cedar around windows? why not use same product, thats gonna need maintained with paint
Kind of a no-brainer, right?
Why not just add a plug in the screw heads and leave them proud a bit?
Ask him why Hardie doesn't provide 2x trim. So you are using cedar all over because you can't get 2x trim from Hardie. Good point about the window trim, when putting in windows that last 10-15 years.
You would think Huber would just texture their Zip boards to act as a built-in rain screen. Money Grab.
You know ...that is a good point! Give it a texture like LP smartside and you would be good to go!
I'm thinking something like HydroGap house wrap.
Doesn’t create a true rainscreen. Besides, you don’t have to provide a drainage layer between fiber cement siding and Zip sheathing. It is best practice, however, and there are lot ways to accomplish this from a 1mm drainage layer (HydroGap, e.g.) to a full 3/4” rainscreen gap for maximum drainage and drying potential. Not to mention continuous exterior siding options which are pretty standard on high- performance houses. Adding texture to the surface of the Zip sheathing would be a waste of money from my perspective, not a money grab.