I agree, we will make sure to do better with that in the future, the goal of this one though was to have the printer actually printing while we talked about it.
I’m surprised that “.step” files weren’t mentioned among the most common ones. I always export my design as a step file. I think I’ve read somewhere that it is more accurate when it comes to arcs/curved paths. So, since that moment, I’ve only used step files.
Well thank you for that information, though if you're a complete noob at printing you're probably using 3mf or stl, which is why they were the two most common ones listed. Now as you grow into the hobby and learning what is better for certain situations .step files definitely come into play.
Not necessarily, 3D printing is a lot of trial and error, remember that printers have personalities and can and will get upset, it's just like playing your favorite game, spending money on it doesn't make you a better player but the hours that you put into the game do. Anyone can go and spend money on a Bambu printer that does pretty much everything for you but you're not going to get the immersive learning experience that can be enjoyed when tinkering with your printer and making it do what you want it to.
Lol, that's simply not true. There is a quite steep diminishning return curve for 3D printers when it comes to quality. You can get almost the same quality out of old printers (let's say Ender 3v3) as with Bambu, it just requires suficcient knowledge and experience in order to setup everyting. So no, more money doesn't nessesery means better quality of 3D printing.
Got a weird one that I am also enlisting Bambu Support on and recommendations would be grateful and informative for others as this issue doesn't appear to be just Bambu lab or Prusa or Prusa based slicers. Considering my research thus far involving many hours of testing, research and wasted filament and have printed a test object in relation to what feels like 99% of available settings and combinations of those settings. This issue persists throughout the whole model at these specific layers where layer time "potentially" causes shrinkage or a over or under extruded result or deviation in X,Y,Z and is not reflected in G-code. This defect is associated with (Top layers and corresponding solid infill/bridge) and (A different support Interface material) with and without a prime tower. Which in general creates larger layer times. My testing and further (potentially incorrect) theory is that the concept of layer time (thermal deviation) is not creating this effect and is negligible especially on large parts where cooling naturally occurs. Which I also believe is associated in part to the Benchy Hull Line. These tests should rule out or highlight machine and filament characteristics good and bad with "fairly constant" variables. Especially if the print head moves away from model during pause process. (X1 Carbon specifically or comparable types) if it doesn't move away your not exercising certain mechanical stresses that should highlight a deviation mechanically or digitally as the programmed coordinates, feed rates, temps and such are (perfect) and locked in per your settings. To further that point, disable any feature that would automatically control a alteration to such areas. Ill go into the temp "perfect" aspect later as its always trying to lower and at different rates. In my scenario is a simple 4 inch open top box where the floor is 1/2 inch thick, 1 inch tall, 1/4 inch thick walls that uses 3 walls per the slicer. Since the inside of the box is 1/2 inch vertically from the bottom, a portion of that space is (sparse infill and walls) the remainder is (Bridge/Solid Infill/Top layer and walls). A protruding and or sunken outer wall line impacting at least 1 layer and potentially more that can alternating some of those positions exist at those sections involving top layers and support interface material of a different kind and possible of same material if the layer time is long enough. Why would the outer walls of the entire layer have a distortion equal to top layer area height when they are separated by 1/4 inch (actually less, because each side has 3 walls) vs Benchy which is way tighter tolerances which would be more likely influenced by lateral failure at that point due to proximity of wall to infill to solid top layer. Regardless of infill density/style/direction/layer time matching or cooling changes or order the problem affects at a bare minimum the outer wall while prioritizing outer walls first or any combination of wall and infill order. Upon cutting the part in half and razor blade cross section the wall and no visible differences are internal like a air pocket/gap that indicates a misalignment. To test misalignment further if it is more intentional is to disable arc fitting or G2/G3 commands incase its interpolating arcs wrong but that wouldn't doesn't explain straight walls. Thankfully didn't change result. I can create a section of the print below those top layers to contain 6 walls which are 12 when two walls are back to back and different infill settings that induce a time difference and more thermal mass and no outer blemish occurs. Which proves a thick sufficiently cooled wall doesn't contract or bulge like this considering cooling starts each independent line the moment it leaves the nozzle let alone using a fan. Can pause the print orders of magnitude beyond (Layer time of top surface or support material transition) resume and the contraction/shift or flow change does not occur. But as soon as you get to either the support interface (Layer time) or top layers (Layer time) is when the issue arises. As it seems a material change layer time defect is similar or equal to the top layers layer time defect. Example: With the box dimensions given above, run such a slow speed that cooling is complete before depositing next line adjacent to current without a fan. Next add 5 or any number of pauses anywhere on print for 400 seconds or something exceeding the largest layer time and monitor with a timer then resume print. The result on my end is no perceivable difference and if critically looking at it potentially a 5% difference in shine, not a layer/flow deviation like the top layer time difference. I think its safe to say were out of the territory where thermal fluctuations impact line placement. The issue persists regardless of outer wall distance from "solid top layers" separated by varied amounts of infill types/density and number of walls. Now how does this corelate to support interface time difference one might ask... Since inducing a 400 second pause time doesn't result in a contraction deviation or flow irregularity, and proves the machines ability to start/stop/start and match the other non stop surfaces. There seems to be other forces at play no matter how primed the nozzle is before the outer wall or the start of the deviation. The deviation/flow change laterally through those areas Isn't associated with temperature, mechanical problems/quality or filament conditions. Perhaps a extruder compensation value hidden behind user interface associated with layer time? Slicer layer time corrupts G-code at machine level after loaded? Have tested different different line widths with no change the affected area hoping it was inducing a computing error or shift at those layers but that still wouldn't account for the support interface layer time shift/flow change unless associated with printing of support. What's your thoughts if not specifically to my issue but even to the Benchy Hull Line with similar issues knowing the information provided. If a specific slicer potentially (Cura) or others resolved it why are other manufacturers not resolving this or they aren't transparently resolving this anomaly as its not new apparently and the easy out to the conversation is layer contraction, cooling, filament condition/type or mechanical issue. Aside from some (Prusa) documentation which indicates tuning or mechanical issue or filament and as the issues they conclude they are not confident of what impacted their results but still try to provide a G code solution. Also considering I am having no repeating effects outside of layer time location would indicate no mechanical or filament issue. 400 second start/stop/start while moving to wipe area and back again proves X/Y/Z backlash accuracy. As far as the filament it prints great and doesn't exabit any other printing defects and is maintained at less than 15% humidity. Now to elaborate on perfect temp. The slow speed/flow matching with minimal cooling ensures nozzle heat recovery is maintained consistently. As I have compartmentalized some of these functions we can start to isolate the issue. To prove the theory of settings outside of user control but the manufacturer has them is as simple as this. A firmware update. I'm using newest version of Bambu Studio with the latest firmware on the machine and this has persisted through other versions/firmware and rolls of material. Have gone through the mechanical maintenance processes with no impact. What's your thoughts?
This is definitely a unique case that I am interested in investigating, would you mind emailing me the file so I can put it on some of our printers to see if we can iron out some of the hiccups you're running into? If you don't mind just let me know and I will post my email for you to send it to. Also are you using regular pla, what brand, what speeds are you using, and what diameter nozzle? I'm very curious on this one, thanks for reaching out to us with it.
@@danielgolden5633 Don't worry we will try our best to help you, ender 3's run a variant of Marlin just like the Magician series, do you know which ender 3 you have? V2, pro, V3 SE, or another type?
@@danielgolden5633 Ok I will have to see if I can find an ender 3 to work with to try to help you out, they're not a printer we use but for a printer in need I'm sure exceptions can be made.
Not everyone is ready or needs a printer that costs as much as the bambu. Sometimes a simple little printer is the way to go. Also bambu is starting to lose their advantage, I have a kobra 3 with the ace pro that is better than any bambu I have ever printed with, thats not to to take anything away from bambu they have great products but the market is quickly catching up and becoming cheaper.
yes and no but i did just buy a bambu x1c + ams to replace my modded ender 3 v3 se print spped is the same, but filament claibration is 15m in the x1c and 15 hr abs prints are 100% perfect, i couldnt ask for more in 55 hrs i have printed for 37 hours lol
If your new just use the handy app on your phone and you can download the Bambu slicer on your computer I think it's called Bambu studios. Don't worry about ORCA if you have a Bambu.. at least at first
Buy a printer along with 20 kg of filament of various type. print and experiment to the last inch in many settings and situations. If you don't know how to use cad or 3d modeling software and not interested in learning them, don't buy a 3d printer.
i have a Bambu X1C + AMS and 30+ filament and i have no idea how to use 3d modeling software, its doing 100% what i want it to do and its doing it fantastic
I agree that experimenting, failing and learning the hobby are all valuable steps, and I also believe that learning some form of cad software is beneficial, however it is not for everyone and some people just want to experiment and see the cool things that can be found on sites like thingiverse, printables, or makerworld. To some people 3d printing is a stress relief.
subscriber #45
good basic info for the new user.
some example test prints etc should be a good extra for the visual leraners.
I agree, we will make sure to do better with that in the future, the goal of this one though was to have the printer actually printing while we talked about it.
I’m surprised that “.step” files weren’t mentioned among the most common ones. I always export my design as a step file. I think I’ve read somewhere that it is more accurate when it comes to arcs/curved paths. So, since that moment, I’ve only used step files.
Well thank you for that information, though if you're a complete noob at printing you're probably using 3mf or stl, which is why they were the two most common ones listed. Now as you grow into the hobby and learning what is better for certain situations .step files definitely come into play.
How to get better at 3d printing: spend more money
Not necessarily, 3D printing is a lot of trial and error, remember that printers have personalities and can and will get upset, it's just like playing your favorite game, spending money on it doesn't make you a better player but the hours that you put into the game do. Anyone can go and spend money on a Bambu printer that does pretty much everything for you but you're not going to get the immersive learning experience that can be enjoyed when tinkering with your printer and making it do what you want it to.
i just bought an anycubic kobra 2 neo and i can literally print anything that fits in the volume.
pnp parts included and at a high resolution
Lol, that's simply not true. There is a quite steep diminishning return curve for 3D printers when it comes to quality. You can get almost the same quality out of old printers (let's say Ender 3v3) as with Bambu, it just requires suficcient knowledge and experience in order to setup everyting. So no, more money doesn't nessesery means better quality of 3D printing.
Got a weird one that I am also enlisting Bambu Support on and recommendations would be grateful and informative for others as this issue doesn't appear to be just Bambu lab or Prusa or Prusa based slicers. Considering my research thus far involving many hours of testing, research and wasted filament and have printed a test object in relation to what feels like 99% of available settings and combinations of those settings. This issue persists throughout the whole model at these specific layers where layer time "potentially" causes shrinkage or a over or under extruded result or deviation in X,Y,Z and is not reflected in G-code. This defect is associated with (Top layers and corresponding solid infill/bridge) and (A different support Interface material) with and without a prime tower. Which in general creates larger layer times. My testing and further (potentially incorrect) theory is that the concept of layer time (thermal deviation) is not creating this effect and is negligible especially on large parts where cooling naturally occurs. Which I also believe is associated in part to the Benchy Hull Line. These tests should rule out or highlight machine and filament characteristics good and bad with "fairly constant" variables. Especially if the print head moves away from model during pause process. (X1 Carbon specifically or comparable types) if it doesn't move away your not exercising certain mechanical stresses that should highlight a deviation mechanically or digitally as the programmed coordinates, feed rates, temps and such are (perfect) and locked in per your settings. To further that point, disable any feature that would automatically control a alteration to such areas. Ill go into the temp "perfect" aspect later as its always trying to lower and at different rates.
In my scenario is a simple 4 inch open top box where the floor is 1/2 inch thick, 1 inch tall, 1/4 inch thick walls that uses 3 walls per the slicer. Since the inside of the box is 1/2 inch vertically from the bottom, a portion of that space is (sparse infill and walls) the remainder is (Bridge/Solid Infill/Top layer and walls). A protruding and or sunken outer wall line impacting at least 1 layer and potentially more that can alternating some of those positions exist at those sections involving top layers and support interface material of a different kind and possible of same material if the layer time is long enough. Why would the outer walls of the entire layer have a distortion equal to top layer area height when they are separated by 1/4 inch (actually less, because each side has 3 walls) vs Benchy which is way tighter tolerances which would be more likely influenced by lateral failure at that point due to proximity of wall to infill to solid top layer. Regardless of infill density/style/direction/layer time matching or cooling changes or order the problem affects at a bare minimum the outer wall while prioritizing outer walls first or any combination of wall and infill order. Upon cutting the part in half and razor blade cross section the wall and no visible differences are internal like a air pocket/gap that indicates a misalignment. To test misalignment further if it is more intentional is to disable arc fitting or G2/G3 commands incase its interpolating arcs wrong but that wouldn't doesn't explain straight walls. Thankfully didn't change result.
I can create a section of the print below those top layers to contain 6 walls which are 12 when two walls are back to back and different infill settings that induce a time difference and more thermal mass and no outer blemish occurs. Which proves a thick sufficiently cooled wall doesn't contract or bulge like this considering cooling starts each independent line the moment it leaves the nozzle let alone using a fan. Can pause the print orders of magnitude beyond (Layer time of top surface or support material transition) resume and the contraction/shift or flow change does not occur. But as soon as you get to either the support interface (Layer time) or top layers (Layer time) is when the issue arises. As it seems a material change layer time defect is similar or equal to the top layers layer time defect.
Example: With the box dimensions given above, run such a slow speed that cooling is complete before depositing next line adjacent to current without a fan. Next add 5 or any number of pauses anywhere on print for 400 seconds or something exceeding the largest layer time and monitor with a timer then resume print. The result on my end is no perceivable difference and if critically looking at it potentially a 5% difference in shine, not a layer/flow deviation like the top layer time difference. I think its safe to say were out of the territory where thermal fluctuations impact line placement. The issue persists regardless of outer wall distance from "solid top layers" separated by varied amounts of infill types/density and number of walls. Now how does this corelate to support interface time difference one might ask...
Since inducing a 400 second pause time doesn't result in a contraction deviation or flow irregularity, and proves the machines ability to start/stop/start and match the other non stop surfaces. There seems to be other forces at play no matter how primed the nozzle is before the outer wall or the start of the deviation. The deviation/flow change laterally through those areas Isn't associated with temperature, mechanical problems/quality or filament conditions. Perhaps a extruder compensation value hidden behind user interface associated with layer time? Slicer layer time corrupts G-code at machine level after loaded? Have tested different different line widths with no change the affected area hoping it was inducing a computing error or shift at those layers but that still wouldn't account for the support interface layer time shift/flow change unless associated with printing of support.
What's your thoughts if not specifically to my issue but even to the Benchy Hull Line with similar issues knowing the information provided. If a specific slicer potentially (Cura) or others resolved it why are other manufacturers not resolving this or they aren't transparently resolving this anomaly as its not new apparently and the easy out to the conversation is layer contraction, cooling, filament condition/type or mechanical issue. Aside from some (Prusa) documentation which indicates tuning or mechanical issue or filament and as the issues they conclude they are not confident of what impacted their results but still try to provide a G code solution. Also considering I am having no repeating effects outside of layer time location would indicate no mechanical or filament issue. 400 second start/stop/start while moving to wipe area and back again proves X/Y/Z backlash accuracy. As far as the filament it prints great and doesn't exabit any other printing defects and is maintained at less than 15% humidity.
Now to elaborate on perfect temp. The slow speed/flow matching with minimal cooling ensures nozzle heat recovery is maintained consistently. As I have compartmentalized some of these functions we can start to isolate the issue. To prove the theory of settings outside of user control but the manufacturer has them is as simple as this. A firmware update. I'm using newest version of Bambu Studio with the latest firmware on the machine and this has persisted through other versions/firmware and rolls of material. Have gone through the mechanical maintenance processes with no impact.
What's your thoughts?
This is definitely a unique case that I am interested in investigating, would you mind emailing me the file so I can put it on some of our printers to see if we can iron out some of the hiccups you're running into? If you don't mind just let me know and I will post my email for you to send it to. Also are you using regular pla, what brand, what speeds are you using, and what diameter nozzle? I'm very curious on this one, thanks for reaching out to us with it.
Could you make a video about Firmware? I updated my firmware and now the axis won’t move. Not even auto home. I have a Ender 3. 4.2.2 motherboard.
We can certainly do that, do you have an ender 3 or are you working with a mingda with an ender board?
@@GLRoboticsUSA I have a Creality Ender 3 printer. I have watch several videos. They are very confusing.
@@danielgolden5633 Don't worry we will try our best to help you, ender 3's run a variant of Marlin just like the Magician series, do you know which ender 3 you have? V2, pro, V3 SE, or another type?
@@GLRoboticsUSA I have the basic Ender 3.
@@danielgolden5633 Ok I will have to see if I can find an ender 3 to work with to try to help you out, they're not a printer we use but for a printer in need I'm sure exceptions can be made.
Just buy a Bambu it’s better in every way
Not everyone is ready or needs a printer that costs as much as the bambu. Sometimes a simple little printer is the way to go. Also bambu is starting to lose their advantage, I have a kobra 3 with the ace pro that is better than any bambu I have ever printed with, thats not to to take anything away from bambu they have great products but the market is quickly catching up and becoming cheaper.
yes and no
but i did just buy a bambu x1c + ams to replace my modded ender 3 v3 se
print spped is the same, but filament claibration is 15m in the x1c and 15 hr abs prints are 100% perfect, i couldnt ask for more
in 55 hrs i have printed for 37 hours lol
Aaaaaaannd tell me you don't know anything about 3d printing, without telling me you don't know anything about 3d printing
i'm defaulting to step files instead of stl
Would you mind sharing why you're going to move forward with the step files as opposed to the STL files?
After watching videos for five years (still no printer) I would humbly suggest a Bambu Lab A1 with the Orca slicer.
If your new just use the handy app on your phone and you can download the Bambu slicer on your computer I think it's called Bambu studios. Don't worry about ORCA if you have a Bambu.. at least at first
Dont know why you would use orca slicer for the bambu when they have their own slicer thats literally the same thing.
I've had more issues with orca than anything else
Buy a printer along with 20 kg of filament of various type. print and experiment to the last inch in many settings and situations. If you don't know how to use cad or 3d modeling software and not interested in learning them, don't buy a 3d printer.
i have a Bambu X1C + AMS and 30+ filament and i have no idea how to use 3d modeling software, its doing 100% what i want it to do and its doing it fantastic
I agree that experimenting, failing and learning the hobby are all valuable steps, and I also believe that learning some form of cad software is beneficial, however it is not for everyone and some people just want to experiment and see the cool things that can be found on sites like thingiverse, printables, or makerworld. To some people 3d printing is a stress relief.