How to know the drag setting: I get my wife to hold the rod, tie the line to a scale (like the one you use to weigh fish), and pull against it. I adjust the drag until it releases at the right pounds. Then, to understand where that setting is, I tighten it down while counting the turns. That way, I can get back to the same general spot by reversing the process.
Some reel companies publish the maximum drag strength for each model and size, which will give you a decent enough handle on your setting. For example, my Penn Pursuit III 2500 maxes out at 10 pounds. So if I'm using 10-lb braid, I just dial it back a little from the max, and I'm good. With 15-lb, I could probably screw it down all the way, but I wouldn't.
Factory drag measurement changes with usage The best solution for singles or "non cooperative wives" is to buy a 10 dollars scale with dial lock. Just attach the line to the scale and walk away until the drag releases line. Go back and read the measure of the black line on the scale. simple as that. l leave the link here (when you see the scale Will understand instantly) www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MKMHZK/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Great video.thanks. I tell everyone. Tie your knots at home, and break your line. If it breaks in the knot. Use a different knot. Every line limes a particular knot. Personal experience. The uni knot works by far better than any other knot on the market. Tied right. Happy tight lines.
One thing to bare on mind about braid specifically Power Pro The average breaking strength of Power Pro Braid in MY tests was at least 25% greater than advertised My 30lb Power Pro braid broke consistently at over 45lbs I believe Power has a chart of actual breaking strength of thier lines
I’ve used Improved Clinch for 45 years with mono (Palomar with braid) and can’t remember a lost fish because of the knot..But.. there’s been thousands lost for other reasons. 😭😂 I have tried hundreds of knots and occasionally use a different one..but as you said, tied right with drag set they all work well. Thanks for your videos! 🎣
So very true , that’s why I use a noodle rod at 9ft for steelhead and have 6lbs line to catch 12 lbs fish , let the rod do the work , not the line good info many never consider
In general, I agree with this idea, but there are several caveats that need to be taken into account. Over the years, I've been fairly fanatical about learning and testing knots and lines. The specific brand and type of line you're using matter enormously. For example, if I tie a clinch knot in Berkely Big Game, it’s reliable. But with my Sufix Elite or Siege, the knot slips every time, even if I tie it with ten turns. Those lines are slick, and the clinch doesn't hold. And it's not just because the Sufix lines are copolymers since other copolymer lines I've tested held until the clinch broke. For years, I used the Palomar knot for everything with great success. Then I tried a new brand of fluorocarbon, and broke the knot over and over on hooksets. When I changed knots, the problem disappeared. I know you have confidence in your system, but I've never seen a test of any kind of GSP line where the clinch rated even 50%, but if you double the line, it becomes a very good knot. I'm not trying to tell you to change knots, and I agree that a well-tied knot is better than a poorly-tied one. And the quicker and more consistently you can tie a knot, the more likely you are to retie when you find abrasions, but the specific line you use will make a huge difference in the relative break strength of the knot you tie. Just some things to think about…
Makes good since,i,ve seen guys land 10lbs catfish using only 6lbs test lines,only possible because they know how to tie thier knots and set their drags right👍
I fished in Missouri(when I was at FLW) with a guy named Mike. He showed me a knot that was easy to tie(you can tie it by feel, really). Several years later I saw that it was called the "World's Fair Knot". I still use it to this day -I just think of it as "The Mike Knot"; 'cuz he showed it to me years before the rest of the world found out about it.
I use the Uni knot for almost all of my fishing. As a carp angler, there are other knots we also use, like the knotless knot (snell), figure-8 loop, etc., but, for connecting most components, I love the Uni. The reason is exactly what you cite in this video--I can tie that knot well, and I have had no problems with knot breakage using it. In carp angling, since carp have soft mouths, you have to set the drag so they can run to avoid tearing the hook out of their mouths, so I never approach the breaking strength of my knot.
Unless you're fishing for big game or sharks, those 50-60% knots do fine with 25% drag. No-one is locking down the drag on pompano, blues, and croakers. I save the cool knots such as the Bimini and FG for tuna, GT, and amberjack.
I mostly use a uni knot because it can be used to tie 2 lines together, snell a hook, and works with all types of line. It's just as easy as the clinch knot. All of these knots are super easy to tie once you do them 3 or 4 times.
In real life fishing of over 50 years, the best, strongest, easy to tie knot is variously called the “ Jack”, the “Miller” or the “Jack Miller” knot! Beats the crap out of the improved clinch, is easier to tie, uses less line and is way way stronger! And you don’t have it on your list! It is rated at 100% line strength and in my real life experience it is or very very close! Once you try it you won’t bother the rest!
I use an improved clinch knot most of the time because I can tie it in my sleep. I use a few other knots like the double uni, the surgeons loop, and a loop knot for a few other situations. The knots I tie are the ones that I know backwards and forward so they don't slip, burn, or break. I've landed trout in the 3-4 pound range on 2 pound test and an improved clinch- I have also lost a few.
I tie the San Diego Jam knot which is the upside down version of the Clinch. You are 100% right. Drag and rod action can eliminate 99% of all break offs. I always used the formula of 25% of drag breakage. I use rods that load up more before I have to set the hook and that seems to give me better hookup rates as well. Anyways great video as usual! Always informative!
I've used the trilene and palomar for years and swore by them. One day looking at an old magazine I seen a article about the davy knot. I tried it and now 6 years later still use it for most of my applications. I tie it so well I am confident my double davy knot will out perform most other people's trilene or palomar. The only time I don't use it is when I'm using line heavier than 30lb test leader, or when I'm fishing a lure or hook that has a very thick diameter compared to the line. That's the only time it will slip. Just the other day I broke a berkley fusion hook on a snag while using 4lb test on my ultralight rod, using a regular davy knot. 😁
Ever since I was a kid, I’ve simply used three overhand knots (one on top of the other) on just about every fishing connection. I can’t remember ever having a knot break or slip. I can’t say I fish for huge fish, but I’ve caught 38 inch redfish and 3 foot sharks.
This advice is great for bass fishermen, fishing for fish that are around an expected size range. I fish tuna and right now we are hooking fish from 15-200lbs, I need that knot to hold at the highest percentage of line strength possible, when fishing with a lever-drag reel you adjust the drag as needed as the fight goes on, if I'm fishing 50lb line I start with the drag around 12-16lbs and move it up if needed on bigger fish, its not uncommon to have 40lbs of drag, thumbing the spool to get that fish the last few feet to the boat, would hate to see a knot fail at 60-70% when you could easily have tied an 80%+ knot and have landed that fish... I could see a similar situation arising when fishing around heavy weeds, and having to drag umpteen lbs of mat and your fish out of the junk, knot strength does matter in extreme situations but not in most, I'll give you that.
There are some hard physics involved here....the more sharp bends in a knot, the more it fractionally reduces the strength (ie flexure). However, the biggest factor in if you break off is often how you store the line. If you allow the line to sit outside in the boat it will lose much of its strength to sun (UV) damage and has a better chance of coming in contact with chemicals like WD-40 or oils that can weaken it as well. One trick I learned was using a snug knot on a split ring instead of tying straight to the lure with a loop knot. You still have the full range of motion but its a stronger knot connection as the diameter of the split ring is larger and won't cut the line as quickly.
Well said, you are quite right. One of the very few you tubers i agree with 100%. 5 lbs of drag on a medium light spin set is one hell of a lot of drag
Awesome vid man. I've been so self conscious with what knot to 8se nd when. I love my uni knot. I strictly run braid for everything 3zcept trout. So this vid is perfect for finding a good mono knot
Any advice on how to determine if your drag is set to 50 percent of breaking strength. I’ve never tried to be that exact before. Any advice would be helpful
Sure. Set your drag to a best guess and then pull on the line with a scale (I use Boca Grips) and see what the pound reading is when the drag engages. Make adjustments and finalize.
When I started fishing I strictly used palomar, but as the years went by I seen other fisherman using the clinch knot and they were so much faster at it.. so I switched... Never lost a fish because of the knot I used.. you just have to always check your knot regardless of which method you are using.
I get my wife to hold the rod, tie the line to a scale (like the one you use to weigh fish), and pull against it. I adjust the drag until it releases at the right pounds. Then, to understand where that setting is, I tighten it down while counting the turns. That way, I can get back to the same general spot by reversing the process.
Knots very much come into play when catching giant strong pelagic fish. Sure for piddly little fish with light rods. Catching a Kingfish (cousins of your guy's Amberjacks), the forces are immense, with locked out drags, when you can't give them an inch or they reef ya. Popping at the knot is a very real concern.
Caught a little mistake. At 4:14 you said 0.11 when you meant to say .011. I think everyone knew the point you were making. I agree with you on the properly tied knots. Good video.
No, no, no. This video offends me. The Uni-knot is the best & strongest knot in the history of mankind. Sir, I challenge you to a duel on Saturday morning at Ft. Fisher at your secret surf fishing spot. 2 men go in, 1 comes out.
Ha! Looks like you were preaching to the choir. No burning at the stake for you. The only time I've had a knot break is when I've been snagged and have had to break off. I like the Davy knot because it's quick and there's no need to trim the tag but all of them have worked for me.
How to know the drag setting: I get my wife to hold the rod, tie the line to a scale (like the one you use to weigh fish), and pull against it. I adjust the drag until it releases at the right pounds. Then, to understand where that setting is, I tighten it down while counting the turns. That way, I can get back to the same general spot by reversing the process.
Gee, a good Trilene knot is one of the easiest knots I tie! A Trilene is just a clinch knot with the tag doubled through the eye of the hook or snap at the start. Am I missing something?
You are exactly right. ruclips.net/video/in3hGfD_vpY/видео.html I guess I do not do the extra step because I mostly use flies when fishing freshwater and the eye of the hook is too small for the extra step.
the palomer is nice. esp when you use a clinch style knot. is it called a clinched palomer? idk but it's beyond stronk. esp if you quadruple the line up.
The FG knot, tied well, has very little resistance when going through your rod eyes. If you don't use a wind on leader there is no reason to use the FG (or PG) knots. With practice, the FG isn't that hard, or slow, to tie. It does need some practice to tie it well I must
Fact, point your rod at the fish if your using drag to stop you from breaking the line. Dont believe me? Try it pull line off the reel with rod at 12 o'clock then point it straight at you. 😮😮😮
Burn the Heretic!!! Lets give him HELLL!!!! LOL.LOL.LOL... Finally someone illustrates this big truth on fishing!!! Kudos, Kudos...Kudos!! Holy Glory for you!!! (One of the biggest statements on fishing!!) Now, we should fix the biggest mistake in US sport fishing (here goes the second heresy ) We must refer "always" about line diameter "Not the line resistance"on mono/multy/or whatever. Line capacity in a reel is based in diameter nothing else... Example: 120m (or yard) of .30mm (or inch) is the capacity of my 1000 Daiwa reel. We can't refer it in "pounds or pound test" because is absolutely deceiving (and totally stupid). There are many different strengths in pounds for the same line diameter. This horrible mistake is produced mainly in US. Outside people refer in mm. The normal 30 pounds monofilament is three times thicker than the 30 pound ardent gliss you can get!!! And both will be 30 pounds!!! So, your reel will have a third of line spooled if we refer fill it with 30 pound mono!!!! Even different brands of Mono have different diameters for any given line resistance. And even worst if we talk about behavior inside the water, A 30 pound line "three times thinner" will fish completely different affected by water friction. And also casting distance is affected by the same reason in a different way.. So We must buy line by diameter not by pounds!!! We must stop talking about line resistance. Line diameter instead (in mm or inches.) Another heretic here!! And Gunner!! And good old fashioned fisherman... Thank you and Regards. Fred.
I'm not sure where your break strength chart figures originated, but I find it hard to believe that a clinch or improved clinch is only a 70% break strength knot. Most of my flies are tied with an improved clinch and breakoffs almost always occur away from the knot. If the knot fails, it usually does not break, instead leaving a curled frayed end, which IMO means an improperly tied knot. Clinch and improved clinch knots must be lubed with water or saliva and pulled down properly or they will fail. The most common failure occurs when the knot loops over the eye of the hook which happens mostly with very small flies. this is easily avoided by pulling the completed but untightened knot away from the eye, then pulling it down tight. The second most common failure is trapping a loop when pulling the knot down. The knot wraps tend to stack and overlap if not wetted. All knots should be tested with a hard pull before casting the lure or fly.
I wish I could find the study again. But, here is another one - www.awesomefishingknots.com/2015/01/fishing-knots-strength-test-palomar-vs.html It has the clinch at 52%. As I mentioned in the video, the result has a lot to do with how the test was conducted. You are SO right about the frayed end. The other issue/mistake I made with my flies is cutting the tag to close to the knot and it slips back through.
@@KayakhacksFishingI have switched my leaders (I mostly fly fish) to all fluorocarbon. I believe it is a more consistent material, it's definitely a smaller diameter for the same weight as mono, more abrasion resistant, and theoretically less visible to the fish because the refractive index is the same as water. it does require different knots and for connectors, I use a jam knot tied with a tiefast tool. I still use an improved clinch for leader to fly connections, and when I break off, 99% of the time, the leader breaks. the improved clinch is not failing unless improperly tied.
Are you a heretic? Well yes. But that doesn’t mean you are wrong. Just a quick question, “how do you know the poundage of your drag?” By the way my dad thought me the improved clinic when i was small i have since learned others but that one is my go to like you described.
Sure. Set your drag to a best guess and then pull on the line with a scale (I use Boca Grips) and see what the pound reading is when the drag engages. Make adjustments and finalize.
Your whole premiss is based on your type of fishing. So i call BS! Try bottom fishing for gag grouper with spinning tackle in 4 knot current! Steelhead fishing with 6x tippet. Dock fishing for Snook. Etc Using Stated line strength by manufacturers is ridiculous.
For flyfishing, I agree with you, up to 50 lb fish or smaller hooks, a loop knot is great, or whatever you can tie. For saltwater larger game fish...trolling... or other applications such as smaller line to larger hooks...you are dead wrong. I can tie them all perfectly and knot matters.
Nobody would opt for a weaker knot when it's just as easy to tie a stronger knot, especially when line diameter is a primary consideration and maximising strength for thin diameters is common sense. One should always maximise knot strength because it doesn't cost anything to make the most of the line. None of the knots you're likely to mention are difficult to tie, there's only incompetent fishermen. Next, listed diameters are always false. Next, each type of line will yield different results for each knot, and those figures will be different in practice once the line is under water. Next, the way you use the rod is irrelevant to the knot that you should be tying. Next, listed breaking strains vary from brand to brand. Some brands have an understated breaking strain to compensate for the loss of knot strength, while other brands list an approximation and leave it up to the angler to glean the most strength out of it. This means a clinch knot will seem to perform better when in truth, the diameter is also thicker for understated lines. I don't see how the statements you've made detract from the opportunity to be more efficient. Tying the strongest knot is being efficient. The only thing I agree with is that's its better to tie a knot that one is proficient with and will yield consistently reliable results. But you've assumed that one is incapable of tying the stronger knot to begin with. It just doesn't make sense to purposely tie a weaker knot.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
How to know the drag setting: I get my wife to hold the rod, tie the line to a scale (like the one you use to weigh fish), and pull against it. I adjust the drag until it releases at the right pounds. Then, to understand where that setting is, I tighten it down while counting the turns. That way, I can get back to the same general spot by reversing the process.
Some reel companies publish the maximum drag strength for each model and size, which will give you a decent enough handle on your setting. For example, my Penn Pursuit III 2500 maxes out at 10 pounds. So if I'm using 10-lb braid, I just dial it back a little from the max, and I'm good. With 15-lb, I could probably screw it down all the way, but I wouldn't.
Great point! Thanks!
Factory drag measurement changes with usage
The best solution for singles or "non cooperative wives" is to buy a 10 dollars scale with dial lock.
Just attach the line to the scale and walk away until the drag releases line. Go back and read the measure of the black line on the scale. simple as that. l leave the link here (when you see the scale Will understand instantly)
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MKMHZK/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Great video.thanks. I tell everyone. Tie your knots at home, and break your line. If it breaks in the knot. Use a different knot. Every line limes a particular knot. Personal experience. The uni knot works by far better than any other knot on the market. Tied right. Happy tight lines.
One thing to bare on mind about braid specifically Power Pro
The average breaking strength of Power Pro Braid in MY tests was at least 25% greater than advertised
My 30lb Power Pro braid broke consistently at over 45lbs
I believe Power has a chart of actual breaking strength of thier lines
Thanks for that insight!
I’ve used Improved Clinch for 45 years with mono (Palomar with braid) and can’t remember a lost fish because of the knot..But.. there’s been thousands lost for other reasons. 😭😂 I have tried hundreds of knots and occasionally use a different one..but as you said, tied right with drag set they all work well. Thanks for your videos! 🎣
So very true , that’s why I use a noodle rod at 9ft for steelhead and have 6lbs line to catch 12 lbs fish , let the rod do the work , not the line good info many never consider
In general, I agree with this idea, but there are several caveats that need to be taken into account. Over the years, I've been fairly fanatical about learning and testing knots and lines. The specific brand and type of line you're using matter enormously. For example, if I tie a clinch knot in Berkely Big Game, it’s reliable. But with my Sufix Elite or Siege, the knot slips every time, even if I tie it with ten turns. Those lines are slick, and the clinch doesn't hold. And it's not just because the Sufix lines are copolymers since other copolymer lines I've tested held until the clinch broke. For years, I used the Palomar knot for everything with great success. Then I tried a new brand of fluorocarbon, and broke the knot over and over on hooksets. When I changed knots, the problem disappeared. I know you have confidence in your system, but I've never seen a test of any kind of GSP line where the clinch rated even 50%, but if you double the line, it becomes a very good knot. I'm not trying to tell you to change knots, and I agree that a well-tied knot is better than a poorly-tied one. And the quicker and more consistently you can tie a knot, the more likely you are to retie when you find abrasions, but the specific line you use will make a huge difference in the relative break strength of the knot you tie. Just some things to think about…
Good Point!
You're very correct, arguing on which knot is better is kind of arbitrary, it really comes down to being able to tie a knot and having a tag out.
Makes good since,i,ve seen guys land 10lbs catfish using only 6lbs test lines,only possible because they know how to tie thier knots and set their drags right👍
I fished in Missouri(when I was at FLW) with a guy named Mike. He showed me a knot that was easy to tie(you can tie it by feel, really). Several years later I saw that it was called the "World's Fair Knot". I still use it to this day -I just think of it as "The Mike Knot"; 'cuz he showed it to me years before the rest of the world found out about it.
I just looked it up. Nice!
I use the Uni knot for almost all of my fishing. As a carp angler, there are other knots we also use, like the knotless knot (snell), figure-8 loop, etc., but, for connecting most components, I love the Uni. The reason is exactly what you cite in this video--I can tie that knot well, and I have had no problems with knot breakage using it. In carp angling, since carp have soft mouths, you have to set the drag so they can run to avoid tearing the hook out of their mouths, so I never approach the breaking strength of my knot.
I love the double uni to connect lines. It is a great knot.
Very well put. There are several knots I know and don’t know. All the knots I know work well so I don’t bother learning other knots.
Unless you're fishing for big game or sharks, those 50-60% knots do fine with 25% drag. No-one is locking down the drag on pompano, blues, and croakers. I save the cool knots such as the Bimini and FG for tuna, GT, and amberjack.
Good Point!
I mostly use a uni knot because it can be used to tie 2 lines together, snell a hook, and works with all types of line. It's just as easy as the clinch knot. All of these knots are super easy to tie once you do them 3 or 4 times.
Thank you, sir!! Great informative video!!
You are absolutely right. I tie an improved clinch in seconds in the dark and it hasn't ever been a problem even with 2-4lb line on brookies.
In real life fishing of over 50 years, the best, strongest, easy to tie knot is variously called the “ Jack”, the “Miller” or
the “Jack Miller” knot! Beats the crap out of the improved clinch, is easier to tie, uses less line and is way way stronger!
And you don’t have it on your list! It is rated at 100% line strength and in my real life experience it is or very very close!
Once you try it you won’t bother the rest!
I'll try it. Thanks
Great information sir. Thank you for the sharing of knowledge
I use an improved clinch knot most of the time because I can tie it in my sleep. I use a few other knots like the double uni, the surgeons loop, and a loop knot for a few other situations. The knots I tie are the ones that I know backwards and forward so they don't slip, burn, or break. I've landed trout in the 3-4 pound range on 2 pound test and an improved clinch- I have also lost a few.
I tie the San Diego Jam knot which is the upside down version of the Clinch. You are 100% right. Drag and rod action can eliminate 99% of all break offs. I always used the formula of 25% of drag breakage. I use rods that load up more before I have to set the hook and that seems to give me better hookup rates as well. Anyways great video as usual! Always informative!
I really appreciate that! I'll work even harder!
I've used the trilene and palomar for years and swore by them. One day looking at an old magazine I seen a article about the davy knot. I tried it and now 6 years later still use it for most of my applications. I tie it so well I am confident my double davy knot will out perform most other people's trilene or palomar. The only time I don't use it is when I'm using line heavier than 30lb test leader, or when I'm fishing a lure or hook that has a very thick diameter compared to the line. That's the only time it will slip. Just the other day I broke a berkley fusion hook on a snag while using 4lb test on my ultralight rod, using a regular davy knot. 😁
I agree. The Davy is quick and good enough. I use that with my flies.
Arden Gliss is the brand of fishing line you mentioned ?
Yes. It casts a mile, but you need to watch for fraying if you fish around rocks or oysters.
Ever since I was a kid, I’ve simply used three overhand knots (one on top of the other) on just about every fishing connection. I can’t remember ever having a knot break or slip. I can’t say I fish for huge fish, but I’ve caught 38 inch redfish and 3 foot sharks.
This advice is great for bass fishermen, fishing for fish that are around an expected size range. I fish tuna and right now we are hooking fish from 15-200lbs, I need that knot to hold at the highest percentage of line strength possible, when fishing with a lever-drag reel you adjust the drag as needed as the fight goes on, if I'm fishing 50lb line I start with the drag around 12-16lbs and move it up if needed on bigger fish, its not uncommon to have 40lbs of drag, thumbing the spool to get that fish the last few feet to the boat, would hate to see a knot fail at 60-70% when you could easily have tied an 80%+ knot and have landed that fish... I could see a similar situation arising when fishing around heavy weeds, and having to drag umpteen lbs of mat and your fish out of the junk, knot strength does matter in extreme situations but not in most, I'll give you that.
That is quite a range! Thanks for your insight and recommendations!
Well done my friend, you are the professor !!! Thanks for sharing brother, tight lines and good times. Peace
😎👍✌🖖🐟💥🛎
When the bites on and you’re catching I like to re-tie more often do to line stretch or nicks. Helps my confidence for when that big one bites.
I agree!
There are some hard physics involved here....the more sharp bends in a knot, the more it fractionally reduces the strength (ie flexure). However, the biggest factor in if you break off is often how you store the line. If you allow the line to sit outside in the boat it will lose much of its strength to sun (UV) damage and has a better chance of coming in contact with chemicals like WD-40 or oils that can weaken it as well. One trick I learned was using a snug knot on a split ring instead of tying straight to the lure with a loop knot. You still have the full range of motion but its a stronger knot connection as the diameter of the split ring is larger and won't cut the line as quickly.
Great points! Thanks
I can tie the uni knot in my sleep. You know, I couldn’t get out of bed today because I had tied myself into the bed in my sleep. Using the uni knot.
lol!
Fantastic short story. LOL!!!
I love the UNI knot. Is one of my preference...but l dont tie it in my bedroom!!
Fred.
UNI knot is life.
Well said, you are quite right. One of the very few you tubers i agree with 100%. 5 lbs of drag on a medium light spin set is one hell of a lot of drag
I really appreciate that! I'll work even harder!
Awesome vid man. I've been so self conscious with what knot to 8se nd when. I love my uni knot. I strictly run braid for everything 3zcept trout. So this vid is perfect for finding a good mono knot
Thanks for sharing!
Any advice on how to determine if your drag is set to 50 percent of breaking strength. I’ve never tried to be that exact before. Any advice would be helpful
Sure. Set your drag to a best guess and then pull on the line with a scale (I use Boca Grips) and see what the pound reading is when the drag engages. Make adjustments and finalize.
New friend here, glad I found your channel. Some real interesting and helpful tips. 👍
I really appreciate that! I'll work even harder!
I like the pointer you used on your whiteboard! Keep the vids comin'...
lol! Bombarda float
When I started fishing I strictly used palomar, but as the years went by I seen other fisherman using the clinch knot and they were so much faster at it.. so I switched... Never lost a fish because of the knot I used.. you just have to always check your knot regardless of which method you are using.
Yep. Especially as a fly fisherman, trying to deal with complex knots and a tiny hook eye can take forever!
How do you set the drag on your reel to a specific poundage?
I get my wife to hold the rod, tie the line to a scale (like the one you use to weigh fish), and pull against it. I adjust the drag until it releases at the right pounds. Then, to understand where that setting is, I tighten it down while counting the turns. That way, I can get back to the same general spot by reversing the process.
@@KayakhacksFishing thanks
Kayak Hacks Fishing
Thanks no need to respond to this question above. I should have read all comments first. Might be a good winter video though
@@KayakhacksFishing Do you have a video??
I need to make one.
always great stuff. thanks
Very interesting take on fishing knots. When did you graduate from Knot U? Never heard of Ardent Gliss - will check it out.
lol! I graduated from Knot U after losing a few fish with poorly tied complex knots!
Knots very much come into play when catching giant strong pelagic fish. Sure for piddly little fish with light rods. Catching a Kingfish (cousins of your guy's Amberjacks), the forces are immense, with locked out drags, when you can't give them an inch or they reef ya. Popping at the knot is a very real concern.
Great point!
Great video
You're darn right mate, cheers.
ive tied some crappy knots in my long life and have never had my knot break. i always set my drag to just put a good bend in my rod and thats it.
Caught a little mistake. At 4:14 you said 0.11 when you meant to say .011. I think everyone knew the point you were making. I agree with you on the properly tied knots. Good video.
lol! Thanks! I really appreciate the correction.
What about the double Pittson i believe it is stronger
I am not familiar with that knot. Thanks for the reference to it so I can check it out!
No, no, no. This video offends me. The Uni-knot is the best & strongest knot in the history of mankind. Sir, I challenge you to a duel on Saturday morning at Ft. Fisher at your secret surf fishing spot. 2 men go in, 1 comes out.
I know how that would end....
Human flesh is pretty good bait for redfish and flounder, also mackerel and virtually every species of shark.
@@docbailey3265 After I finish Kayak Hacks off, I can surf fish his belly strips for citation flounder in the surf.
Loser goes home, winner gets to stay and fish?
lol... winner gets to clean up the mess and hide the body in the sand. "Nothing here to see, Officer..."
Ha! Looks like you were preaching to the choir. No burning at the stake for you. The only time I've had a knot break is when I've been snagged and have had to break off. I like the Davy knot because it's quick and there's no need to trim the tag but all of them have worked for me.
The Davy knot rocks for speed. Very quick to tie. I use it with flies when I get in a hurry.
Trilene is superior to improved clinch in every single application in my opinion - great video
How do you know when your drag is set to half the breaking point of the line?
How to know the drag setting: I get my wife to hold the rod, tie the line to a scale (like the one you use to weigh fish), and pull against it. I adjust the drag until it releases at the right pounds. Then, to understand where that setting is, I tighten it down while counting the turns. That way, I can get back to the same general spot by reversing the process.
what about the loop knot?
that works. I did not look at it.
Clinch knot fails when you use light line with larger wire.
Lost too many fish and lures due to improved clinch knot failure.
Good point
Gee, a good Trilene knot is one of the easiest knots I tie! A Trilene is just a clinch knot with the tag doubled through the eye of the hook or snap at the start. Am I missing something?
You are exactly right. ruclips.net/video/in3hGfD_vpY/видео.html I guess I do not do the extra step because I mostly use flies when fishing freshwater and the eye of the hook is too small for the extra step.
also known as the double clinch knot.
I tie a palomer knot ( can’t spell ) I tie it in the dark with these old eyes. Set the hook brother
Yes!
the palomer is nice. esp when you use a clinch style knot. is it called a clinched palomer? idk but it's beyond stronk. esp if you quadruple the line up.
Been saying this for years. Why I don’t understand the fascination with the hard to tie FG knot.
The FG knot, tied well, has very little resistance when going through your rod eyes.
If you don't use a wind on leader there is no reason to use the FG (or PG) knots.
With practice, the FG isn't that hard, or slow, to tie. It does need some practice to tie it well
I must
all the knots in this video are about the same difficulty.
Key is proper knot with proper tension 😂 who would think? 👍
Completely agree! Learn how to tie a knot well.
Fact, point your rod at the fish if your using drag to stop you from breaking the line. Dont believe me? Try it pull line off the reel with rod at 12 o'clock then point it straight at you. 😮😮😮
Good Point!
Burn the Heretic!!!
Lets give him HELLL!!!! LOL.LOL.LOL...
Finally someone illustrates this big truth on fishing!!!
Kudos, Kudos...Kudos!!
Holy Glory for you!!!
(One of the biggest statements on fishing!!)
Now, we should fix the biggest mistake in US sport fishing (here goes the second heresy )
We must refer "always" about line diameter "Not the line resistance"on mono/multy/or whatever.
Line capacity in a reel is based in diameter nothing else...
Example: 120m (or yard) of .30mm (or inch) is the capacity of my 1000 Daiwa reel.
We can't refer it in "pounds or pound test" because is absolutely deceiving (and totally stupid).
There are many different strengths in pounds for the same line diameter.
This horrible mistake is produced mainly in US. Outside people refer in mm.
The normal 30 pounds monofilament is three times thicker than the 30 pound ardent gliss you can get!!!
And both will be 30 pounds!!!
So, your reel will have a third of line spooled if we refer fill it with 30 pound mono!!!!
Even different brands of Mono have different diameters for any given line resistance.
And even worst if we talk about behavior inside the water,
A 30 pound line "three times thinner" will fish completely different affected by water friction.
And also casting distance is affected by the same reason in a different way..
So We must buy line by diameter not by pounds!!!
We must stop talking about line resistance. Line diameter instead (in mm or inches.)
Another heretic here!!
And Gunner!!
And good old fashioned fisherman...
Thank you and Regards.
Fred.
All true!!
Dilley Dilley! Totally agree! 👍👍🎣
I'm not sure where your break strength chart figures originated, but I find it hard to believe that a clinch or improved clinch is only a 70% break strength knot. Most of my flies are tied with an improved clinch and breakoffs almost always occur away from the knot. If the knot fails, it usually does not break, instead leaving a curled frayed end, which IMO means an improperly tied knot. Clinch and improved clinch knots must be lubed with water or saliva and pulled down properly or they will fail. The most common failure occurs when the knot loops over the eye of the hook which happens mostly with very small flies. this is easily avoided by pulling the completed but untightened knot away from the eye, then pulling it down tight. The second most common failure is trapping a loop when pulling the knot down. The knot wraps tend to stack and overlap if not wetted. All knots should be tested with a hard pull before casting the lure or fly.
I wish I could find the study again. But, here is another one - www.awesomefishingknots.com/2015/01/fishing-knots-strength-test-palomar-vs.html
It has the clinch at 52%. As I mentioned in the video, the result has a lot to do with how the test was conducted.
You are SO right about the frayed end. The other issue/mistake I made with my flies is cutting the tag to close to the knot and it slips back through.
with stretchy mono id say its more like 40%
@@KayakhacksFishingI have switched my leaders (I mostly fly fish) to all fluorocarbon. I believe it is a more consistent material, it's definitely a smaller diameter for the same weight as mono, more abrasion resistant, and theoretically less visible to the fish because the refractive index is the same as water. it does require different knots and for connectors, I use a jam knot tied with a tiefast tool. I still use an improved clinch for leader to fly connections, and when I break off, 99% of the time, the leader breaks. the improved clinch is not failing unless improperly tied.
@@flyfshrmn09 Sound great!
Palomar or a uni
Yep... love the palomar
Uni knot with the line doubled all day.
Clinch for life.
Uni is life
Why not just learn to be competent at tying the strongest rated knot? It's part of improving one's abilities.
Yep!
if it aint the best it's the worst.
Are you a heretic? Well yes. But that doesn’t mean you are wrong. Just a quick question, “how do you know the poundage of your drag?” By the way my dad thought me the improved clinic when i was small i have since learned others but that one is my go to like you described.
Sure. Set your drag to a best guess and then pull on the line with a scale (I use Boca Grips) and see what the pound reading is when the drag engages. Make adjustments and finalize.
Your whole premiss is based on your type of fishing. So i call BS!
Try bottom fishing for gag grouper with spinning tackle in 4 knot current!
Steelhead fishing with 6x tippet.
Dock fishing for Snook. Etc
Using Stated line strength by manufacturers is ridiculous.
I appreciate your perspective.
For flyfishing, I agree with you, up to 50 lb fish or smaller hooks, a loop knot is great, or whatever you can tie. For saltwater larger game fish...trolling... or other applications such as smaller line to larger hooks...you are dead wrong. I can tie them all perfectly and knot matters.
You are in a different fishing world than I am with 50 pounders. Good point.
Nobody would opt for a weaker knot when it's just as easy to tie a stronger knot, especially when line diameter is a primary consideration and maximising strength for thin diameters is common sense. One should always maximise knot strength because it doesn't cost anything to make the most of the line. None of the knots you're likely to mention are difficult to tie, there's only incompetent fishermen.
Next, listed diameters are always false. Next, each type of line will yield different results for each knot, and those figures will be different in practice once the line is under water.
Next, the way you use the rod is irrelevant to the knot that you should be tying.
Next, listed breaking strains vary from brand to brand. Some brands have an understated breaking strain to compensate for the loss of knot strength, while other brands list an approximation and leave it up to the angler to glean the most strength out of it. This means a clinch knot will seem to perform better when in truth, the diameter is also thicker for understated lines.
I don't see how the statements you've made detract from the opportunity to be more efficient. Tying the strongest knot is being efficient. The only thing I agree with is that's its better to tie a knot that one is proficient with and will yield consistently reliable results. But you've assumed that one is incapable of tying the stronger knot to begin with.
It just doesn't make sense to purposely tie a weaker knot.
Good Point!