Pete that is why that set up there is very easy to get the timing 180 degrees off on the FarmAll H , Just by removing the points cover behind the cap in order to check the points gap , You probably know this , But when the engine is jogged in order to get the breaker points on the high part of the lobe for gap checking , Then reassembled , The rotor has to be at 1:00 when the number one cylinder is on compression stroke , If you don't know this when reassembling , The rotor can be set at 7:00 and not 1:00 , The timing is now off 180 degrees , So remove the points cover and rotate the small D shaped hole in the plate 360 degrees , Because of a small gear drive in that plate the D hole can rotate 360 while causing the rotor to turn only 180 degrees , Rotate that D shaped hole 360 degrees and reassemble , I stick my finger in the number 1 cylinder spark plug hole and rotate engine to feel the compression to know that it's on the power stroke , Then look to see if the rotor is at 1:00 , Then she will run fine , I hope I didn't make this to confusing , Thanks .
Great job on the change over. It sounded great to me as you adjusted the timing. If she still sounds that good under heavy load, you know she is where she need so be.
Everytime I watch a video of you your mechanical ones especially I am so impressed that your knowledge you have built multimillion-dollar buildings I assume but yet you can take a tractor that's 60 years old and make it run and make it look like brand new I am so impressed
Great video, lurned a lot. I'm used to working on a vehicle distributor. Same components but it's assembled differently and a bit more complicated. That's a real nice H.
Most Nash distributors will bolt in. There is a vertical adapt to install almost any Farmall 4 cylinder distributor on your H model. I never thought of converting my magneto . Good idea.
It’s a big help to be mechanically inclined with all that old equipment you have on your farm. I know I still have a lot to learn. Keep the videos coming!
HI there Pete. Loved the startup....first time. I think you got the timing really close first time...just going by my ear. Wow, that sounded good to kick into life as soon as you turned it over. Absolutely love the sound.
Good job my dad and uncle farmed a 200 acre farm in Sterling, NY when I was a kid. My uncle owned a farmall h and my dad had a john deere a. They raised herford cattle, Yorkshire pigs and put up wheat, corn, soybeans and hay with those two tractors. You are really making me want to find an h right now.
I recently bought a replacement Dist. for my '50 8n side mount as old one was pretty worn and I did not want it down too long. It was essentially transforming itself into a rattle, and knew the rebuild was going to take a little time. I was amazed and the difference the replacement dist. made. That being said, even though this was not a cheap Chinesium replacement, I did have some reservations about how long the points and condensor would last vs. the NAPA Echlin line I usually use as well. I settled on running what was in it until it failed, and that turned out to be a month. Troubleshooting was a little bit of a pain, as I checked for spark, which I still had, so I moved on to a carb because of some pre-conceaved notions that it was going need some having never been cracked into in the 10 years I have had it. After going completely through all of the valves, filters and lines I went on to use a complete kit and rebuild the carb. I am glad I rebuilt the carb, as I did find some issues (float level, worn needle and some junk behind the needle and seat and down in the bottom of the carb.), but I reinstalled it, and had the same issue. It was running about 30 seconds and then it would start to stumble. I immediately reinstalled my cheapee spark tester on #1 and fired it back up. When it started to stumble, you could see the spark was cutting out. Grabbed a spare condenser off the parts shelf and that took care of it. Easy fix in the end, but a round about way to get there. I do enjoy watching you work on this stuff, Pete. I do not often see others using that engine lube, which is pretty impressive, sticky stuff. Oh, and nice product placement with the shirt.... ;-)
Begging your pardon, but an oilite bearing should be oiled, not greased-at least in my experience of machine tools. But I'm no mechanic, and you seem to be a capable fellow! Please ignore me if i am incorrect in this instance. Another great video Sir, loving anything you put together on your equipment!
The easy way I find TDC on my H is remove ALL the spark plugs except #1. I do this because I will feel NO compressions on the other cylendars EXCEPT #1, when turning the manual crank. As soon as I start feeling resistance on the manual crank I then know I'm building compression on ONLY #1. I then start looking for the TDC mark on the pulley. I then turn the manual crank slowly until the pointer lines up with the TDC mark on the pulley and VOILA. The great thing about this procedure is, I don't need a second person or compression gauge to find TDC on #1. Hope this helps someone out there in antique tractor land.
I use Delco alternators on all my rolling stock. I have found I need to put an inline diode from the ignition switch to the alt. exciter lead or it back feeds and I can't shut the engine down. After I overhauled my 300 utility it would run so slow you could watch the fan turning .
Great video Pete i have a massey to30 converted to 12 volts 3 plus yrs converted to 12 volts no issues with points frying no ballast restior wonder if i have just been lucky
Is there any way you could help me with the part numbers for the distributor that you replaced? I know it was a long time ago but I didn’t know if you still know them. I don’t want to just go into NAPA and say I need distributor parts 😂. Great video and I love watching all your videos. God bless!
Actually pete, my 1948 farmall c, that i just restored, has the exact same cover plate below the distributor, not sure it its the original or not, whatever it is, you doing a great job and i love watching
Dealing with a Farmall 400 right now I believe the timing is not advancing whatsoever. Wondering how tight the springs should be on the cams. If I push the cams out they stay out . Spring does not pull them back
Really informative video, thank you. I have a question: my '48 Cub has a magneto. I put oil in the bearing cup on the mag, (maybe too much oil), is there supposed to an oil film all around the coil & rotor assembly? The points & condenser are dry so the oil didn't get in there
Hi Tony, that area should not have oil in it; it should be clean & dry. The oil will eventually attract dirt, and you don't want that. The oil cup at the drive end of the mag should be oiled liberally (this lubricates the impulse coupling), but the oil cup near the distributor cap should only be oiled with a drop or two once a year.
One wire goes from the battery to the kill switch, the other wire goes from the kill switch to the coil. When the switch is open it breaks the circuit to the coil.
I live in Namibia. I have a 3141 John Deere Tractor. I wish you were nearby to fix my Tractor. I am struggling to find spare parts for my Tractor. Garages are saying it's an old model Tractor that is no longer on the market, thus spare are no longer available.
Hi Pete!Thanks for your great channel.I am watching it always and more often.I was also a technical drawer in the past and restore my Farmall's since 2002.I have 3 (2x Doncaster Super BMD and 1 Chicago MV) and all in detail like your Super C.I have a serious question regarding your NAPA parts.Over here many of the same junk regarding parts has been sold.We also have Dutch NAPA stores.I really would like the partsnumbers from your ignition.I am restoring in detail an MV 274995 X3D.Is it possible to look up for the numbers?NAPA store over here in Holland say's no problem to get parts from USA but cannot find the numbers.Take 1 month and they connect with NAPA USA. Best thanks from Holland and I appreciate your informative channel very much. (An simple email will be handled very discrete)
Electronic ignition is a pain. I can fix points if they go bad for less than $15. Electronic ignition will cost me many times that, and I may be stuck until a new unit comes in the mail.
Its really smart what you said. People don't see the cost to maintain, repair or replace a part as long as it s easy to install. you are so right. keep it up.
@@JustaFewAcresFarm yes true but I've done almost a 100 boat engine conversions and once we did that we never had any problems but I guess it's what you're use to. I hate points with all the gapping and they corrode vs electronic Is a sealed system that once done you never have to touch timing or cleaning and regapping.
A lot of tractors on farms usually have to jump start other pieces of equipment. The electronic ignitions don't like it and burn out. You can change points and condenser in 20 minutes. Takes a week for a new pertronix
What color other than red is their you ask? Their is another color when it comes to tractors. The wrong color. You covered that in other videos. lol Dont tell my wife I pay attention please.
I wish I could like these videos more than once.
Pete you're a Heck of a mechanic ! I really enjoy watching you rebuild your old tractors !
Thanks Craig!
This is just what I needed to get my dads old tractor running again. Appreciate it very much.
You did a great job and explained it all as you assembled everything.
Enjoyed this video (and Part 1). Thanks for taking time explaining what you're doing and why. Thanks!
Great job Mr, well explained & clean inspección job,thanks,keep sharing already suscribe Say hello jorge
I really enjoy these videos. You have a great way of explaining things! Take care.
Pete that is why that set up there is very easy to get the timing 180 degrees off on the FarmAll H , Just by removing the points cover behind the cap in order to check the points gap , You probably know this , But when the engine is jogged in order to get the breaker points on the high part of the lobe for gap checking , Then reassembled , The rotor has to be at 1:00 when the number one cylinder is on compression stroke , If you don't know this when reassembling , The rotor can be set at 7:00 and not 1:00 , The timing is now off 180 degrees , So remove the points cover and rotate the small D shaped hole in the plate 360 degrees , Because of a small gear drive in that plate the D hole can rotate 360 while causing the rotor to turn only 180 degrees , Rotate that D shaped hole 360 degrees and reassemble , I stick my finger in the number 1 cylinder spark plug hole and rotate engine to feel the compression to know that it's on the power stroke , Then look to see if the rotor is at 1:00 , Then she will run fine , I hope I didn't make this to confusing , Thanks .
I cant think of any scenario where I would have to repair a tractor but I really enjoy these videos.
That tractor is straight off 'Green Acres'. It's a beauty.
This is the first video I saw , and I found it by accident when looking for information on electronic ignition for my tractor.
Love it when everything behaves the first time 👍 nice job
My ear agreed with your ear on distributor position for the timing. It just sounded right. Way to go.
Great job on the change over. It sounded great to me as you adjusted the timing. If she still sounds that good under heavy load, you know she is where she need so be.
Everytime I watch a video of you your mechanical ones especially I am so impressed that your knowledge you have built multimillion-dollar buildings I assume but yet you can take a tractor that's 60 years old and make it run and make it look like brand new I am so impressed
Another outstanding video - great attention to detail.
Really enjoy these videos..please share more in the future..
Really enjoyed watching the rebuild. Nothing sounds as good as an old tractor after an upgrade.😎
Well done, Pete! Such a beautiful tractor. Thanks for the detailed explanation of your repair!
Great video, lurned a lot. I'm used to working on a vehicle distributor. Same components but it's assembled differently and a bit more complicated. That's a real nice H.
Most Nash distributors will bolt in. There is a vertical adapt to install almost any Farmall 4 cylinder distributor on your H model. I never thought of converting my magneto . Good idea.
It’s a big help to be mechanically inclined with all that old equipment you have on your farm. I know I still have a lot to learn. Keep the videos coming!
Awesome! I really enjoy watching your videos and learning tips and tricks. Thank you!
Love the International Harvester stuff.
HI there Pete. Loved the startup....first time. I think you got the timing really close first time...just going by my ear. Wow, that sounded good to kick into life as soon as you turned it over. Absolutely love the sound.
Good job my dad and uncle farmed a 200 acre farm in Sterling, NY when I was a kid. My uncle owned a farmall h and my dad had a john deere a. They raised herford cattle, Yorkshire pigs and put up wheat, corn, soybeans and hay with those two tractors. You are really making me want to find an h right now.
Great tutorial Mr. Pete! You are a jack of all trades and well on your way to mastering them!
Nice video ! I believe the H was the best tractor ever made
Thanks for the video just what I needed working on a 39 h
Looks great and sounds even better. Nice job Pete!!!
I have been thrilled with Sparex brand parts. Very good quality for the money! They even make the diesel injector parts for my Fordson Major!
I recently bought a replacement Dist. for my '50 8n side mount as old one was pretty worn and I did not want it down too long. It was essentially transforming itself into a rattle, and knew the rebuild was going to take a little time. I was amazed and the difference the replacement dist. made. That being said, even though this was not a cheap Chinesium replacement, I did have some reservations about how long the points and condensor would last vs. the NAPA Echlin line I usually use as well. I settled on running what was in it until it failed, and that turned out to be a month. Troubleshooting was a little bit of a pain, as I checked for spark, which I still had, so I moved on to a carb because of some pre-conceaved notions that it was going need some having never been cracked into in the 10 years I have had it. After going completely through all of the valves, filters and lines I went on to use a complete kit and rebuild the carb. I am glad I rebuilt the carb, as I did find some issues (float level, worn needle and some junk behind the needle and seat and down in the bottom of the carb.), but I reinstalled it, and had the same issue. It was running about 30 seconds and then it would start to stumble. I immediately reinstalled my cheapee spark tester on #1 and fired it back up. When it started to stumble, you could see the spark was cutting out. Grabbed a spare condenser off the parts shelf and that took care of it. Easy fix in the end, but a round about way to get there. I do enjoy watching you work on this stuff, Pete. I do not often see others using that engine lube, which is pretty impressive, sticky stuff. Oh, and nice product placement with the shirt.... ;-)
Thanks Chris! I have not had good luck with off-brand ignition parts. I read somewhere that half the cheap condensers are bad right off the shelf.
Begging your pardon, but an oilite bearing should be oiled, not greased-at least in my experience of machine tools. But I'm no mechanic, and you seem to be a capable fellow! Please ignore me if i am incorrect in this instance. Another great video Sir, loving anything you put together on your equipment!
I’am anxious to tear something up and fix it.thanks teach.
Just a FYI NAPA has the magneto coils for about US38. You have to salvage the core from your old coil because no one makes those, but they don't fail.
The easy way I find TDC on my H is remove ALL the spark plugs except #1. I do this because I will feel NO compressions on the other cylendars EXCEPT #1, when turning the manual crank. As soon as I start feeling resistance on the manual crank I then know I'm building compression on ONLY #1. I then start looking for the TDC mark on the pulley. I then turn the manual crank slowly until the pointer lines up with the TDC mark on the pulley and VOILA. The great thing about this procedure is, I don't need a second person or compression gauge to find TDC on #1. Hope this helps someone out there in antique tractor land.
I use Delco alternators on all my rolling stock. I have found I need to put an inline diode from the ignition switch to the alt. exciter lead or it back feeds and I can't shut the engine down. After I overhauled my 300 utility it would run so slow you could watch the fan turning .
I've long preferred to set timing by ear, with a tiny bit of fine tuning if it doesn't respond as desired under load.
The ignition switch you are installing is called a single throw single pole.
"What other color would I use besides red?"
When it comes to Farmall tractors, there is no other color!
Federal Highway Yellow and White on a Cub.
Unless its an Industrial model, then it would be yellow.
Great video Pete i have a massey to30 converted to 12 volts 3 plus yrs converted to 12 volts no issues with points frying no ballast restior wonder if i have just been lucky
Looks great, you make it look so easy! Thank you!
Excellent presentation!
I am so impressed! Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely great job Pete! Explanation is perfect you do a great job>
Well done. Very interesting.
Thank you for sharing Sir!
Is there any way you could help me with the part numbers for the distributor that you replaced? I know it was a long time ago but I didn’t know if you still know them. I don’t want to just go into NAPA and say I need distributor parts 😂. Great video and I love watching all your videos. God bless!
Me too! Needed for a 140.
Awesome informational video. Thank you.
Well done, thanks for sharing.
Actually pete, my 1948 farmall c, that i just restored, has the exact same cover plate below the distributor, not sure it its the original or not, whatever it is, you doing a great job and i love watching
Interesting. My Super C does not have that plate.
Saludos Pete! de Mexico! Adelante!
Good job.
I thank you this video was very helpful
Good job
Dealing with a Farmall 400 right now I believe the timing is not advancing whatsoever. Wondering how tight the springs should be on the cams. If I push the cams out they stay out . Spring does not pull them back
nice work!!
As usual another great video. Thanks
I think it running a little lean at idle. The rest of the RPM range sounds good though.
Love the video. Love the farmall H we have 2 on our farm ....just wondering why you don't have fenders on it tho
super super awesome. seriously.
Hey Pete, does your coil get hot now that you are 12 volt distributor run?
Just curious why you didn't install electronic ignition, instead of points?
Sounds like sweet music!
So are you still using the 6 volt starter? They start much faster then!
Yes still the same starter.
Did it still have a miss (sounded like it, but I don't hear well), or does it smooth out when up to operating temperature? Nice job!
Really informative video, thank you. I have a question: my '48 Cub has a magneto. I put oil in the bearing cup on the mag, (maybe too much oil), is there supposed to an oil film all around the coil & rotor assembly? The points & condenser are dry so the oil didn't get in there
Hi Tony, that area should not have oil in it; it should be clean & dry. The oil will eventually attract dirt, and you don't want that. The oil cup at the drive end of the mag should be oiled liberally (this lubricates the impulse coupling), but the oil cup near the distributor cap should only be oiled with a drop or two once a year.
@@JustaFewAcresFarm Thank you so much for you response, I will clean it up & give it shot.
How do you like the distributor over the mag?
Stupid question… your second wire coming off the kill switch, where does it go? The one side is 12 volt feed, but where does the second wire go ?
One wire goes from the battery to the kill switch, the other wire goes from the kill switch to the coil. When the switch is open it breaks the circuit to the coil.
Can set timing on a 130 with a timing light. I have points
What would happen if you accidentally wire the coil wrong as in reversed positive and negative terminal
Pete, what comments do you have about your physical fitness and health compared to when you were at a desk job? Thanks
I live in Namibia. I have a 3141 John Deere Tractor. I wish you were nearby to fix my Tractor. I am struggling to find spare parts for my Tractor. Garages are saying it's an old model Tractor that is no longer on the market, thus spare are no longer available.
Pete, I'm a new subscriber, where are you located?
Thanks, Alan, Oakland Maine
How many projects like these do you do a year on your tractors? Also the 656 IH doesn't need that much work besides seasonal Maintenance right?
Probably a half dozen little jobs like that. The 656 needed a ton of work when I got it. I'll have to do a video on that sometime.
Just a Few Acres Farm That would be fantastic and something I’d be interested in. Have a goodnight Pete!
Red Power
Hi Pete!Thanks for your great channel.I am watching it always and more often.I was also a technical drawer in the past and restore my Farmall's since 2002.I have 3 (2x Doncaster Super BMD and 1 Chicago MV) and all in detail like your Super C.I have a serious question regarding your NAPA parts.Over here many of the same junk regarding parts has been sold.We also have Dutch NAPA stores.I really would like the partsnumbers from your ignition.I am restoring in detail an MV 274995 X3D.Is it possible to look up for the numbers?NAPA store over here in Holland say's no problem to get parts from USA but cannot find the numbers.Take 1 month and they connect with NAPA USA. Best thanks from Holland and I appreciate your informative channel very much. (An simple email will be handled very discrete)
I did not have the same results. My Farmall 560 is sputtering and backfires.
Mechanics don't use a timing light. We set it with the engine off.
🦅🇺🇸
Why not switch It to electronic ignition. Points are a pain and so obsolete
Electronic ignition is a pain. I can fix points if they go bad for less than $15. Electronic ignition will cost me many times that, and I may be stuck until a new unit comes in the mail.
Its really smart what you said. People don't see the cost to maintain, repair or replace a part as long as it s easy to install. you are so right. keep it up.
@@JustaFewAcresFarm yes true but I've done almost a 100 boat engine conversions and once we did that we never had any problems but I guess it's what you're use to. I hate points with all the gapping and they corrode vs electronic Is a sealed system that once done you never have to touch timing or cleaning and regapping.
A lot of tractors on farms usually have to jump start other pieces of equipment. The electronic ignitions don't like it and burn out. You can change points and condenser in 20 minutes. Takes a week for a new pertronix
What color other than red is their you ask? Their is another color when it comes to tractors. The wrong color. You covered that in other videos. lol Dont tell my wife I pay attention please.
Good job .