Modify Instax Wide 300 for Mamiya Press & Polaroid 600SE Lenses
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 окт 2019
- Read Updated Instructions First!: sprkplg.com/wide300mod/
Free files here (older revisions): www.printables.com/@SPRKPLG/m...
Exclusive & test files, updated revs, giveaways: / sprkplg
Blog & Store: sprkplg.com/
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Got an Instax Wide 300 with a broken lens? Repurpose it as an Instax Wide back! This tutorial is centered around use of my Mamiya Press or Polaroid 600SE adapters, but nothing stops you from using these same instructions and adding a lens solution of your own (Pinhole Wide 300? Mmmmm).
ADAPTERS
Mamiya Press (Universal, Super23, etc): sprkplg.com/product/mp-wide30...
Polaroid 600SE: sprkplg.com/product/600se-wid...
TOOLS/MATERIALS USED
Priline Carbon Fiber Ploycarbonate (adapter material): amzn.to/2HvwuBG
Cold shoes: amzn.to/2Tr5Qwk
Luxjet LS-1 laser measurement tool: amzn.to/3e6A95n
or IIDA DM-01 laser measurement tool: amzn.to/35vryVF
Switches: amzn.to/3osiDgG
Shrink tubing for wiring: amzn.to/3oj2E4p
Hardware: amzn.to/37D3XFi
Sugru for adapter light sealing: amzn.to/3jpQOBJ
Foam tape for internal light sealing: amzn.to/2Tk0jId
Super glue for mount: amzn.to/35tgHM0
Deburring tool to enlarge holes: amzn.to/3onhbvV
Grommets for cable release integration: amzn.to/31EJ2Oa
Cable release: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...
Instax wide in bulk: amzn.to/35uMdt8
Screwdriver set: amzn.to/34srirj
Scissors
Exacto knife
Flush cutters
OPTIONAL for DIY MAMIYA PRESS (no adapter purchase needed)
1. Extension Tubes #2 + #3 or #5
2. Dremel or cutting tool
3. Sandpaper
4. Ground Glass installed into an empty Instax Wide cartridge
5. Epoxy or your choice for permanently attaching the macro tube to the camera
REWIRING
1. Connect thick black wire (negative battery terminal) to the thin black wire of the switch/button board. Or solder the thin black wire to the negative battery terminal and eliminate the thick wire.
2. Connect the thin blue wire from the switch/button board to the thick green wire (top terminal) of the motor. Or solder the thin blue wire to the top motor terminal and eliminate the green wire.
3. Connect the thick pink/red wire (positive battery terminal) to the thick blue wire (bottom terminal) of the motor. Or solder the thick pink/red wire to the bottom motor terminal and eliminate the thick blue wire.
4. No other wires are needed, you can remove the thin pink wire completely. 
Хобби
Great job figuring this out. Might give it a try.
You were serious about not knowing electronics. The red wire from switch area should be REMOVED. That's why you had short with switch. Remove wire and you don't need to pop off switch. So it's super easy, and you should shorten them to just fit. All the shutter switch is doing is switching the negative from off to on to energize the motor. Remove all wires not used in that group.
the_lomographer thanks, and pinned! Now I need to find out how to activate the motors on one press. I know the switch where the orange wires are gets tripped when the film lift arm comes back down, so I’ll try to mess with that.
I remember reading a post where someone did figure this out. I didn’t bookmark it but it is out there. And for me the easy way to time the development push is to be holding the camera and feel and here the motor. There is a noticeable build in strain right as last received pod gets filled then squeezed through. If you let go then, all good.
@@sprkplg i recently bought the adapter and am working to install it soon. Did you figure out the switch thing? I don't mind holding it down for the 5 seconds but would obviously prefer the normal function.
@@jerk4628 Yes, check the link in the description and there are instructions there.
For anyone doing It, be careful with the Big condenser behind the flash. Discharge properly prior to messing with the board. Awesome Mod!!
After using this mod camera for a few months I can say it's definitly the best you going to get out of fuji instax wide film. Extrordinary results and your imagination is the limit.
Man thanks so much for this. For years I've wanted to shoot instant street photography, but have never found a way for it to be viable for me (both monetarily and my shooting method). This will finally allow me to do it. Look forward to an order from me once I can afford it :D and once again, Thank you !
I don’t know if I’m brave enough to do this but I appreciate the video / guide! Good stuff!
Damn I wish I had the confidence to try this out
Awesome job, thanks for sharing your knowledge. xxx
Very nice. Thank you so much
thanks a lot man!!!
Would love to see some example photos please :)
Oops thought I had answered this. Best examples are on Instagram at the moment, check the tag #mpwide300
Ahh the sound of plastic ...
Hi
I am from Hong Kong
And can I buy the whole set from you
The instax wide 300 with the lens
Thanks
I wanna do one for the instax wide 210. I got an old minolta autocord that i can repurpose into the instax body
I was thinking about my Pentacon 6 mount lenses on my Instax Wide and wanted to check whether you sell an adapter. But then the realization came in. I need lenses with built-in shutters :(
Still amazing work though.
As I understand with the extension ring method I won't be able to "calibrate" the focus properly; my only possibility would be to check (for each lens) where infinity / close range is and mark it on the lens barrel?
And with your adapter you have the correct flange distance, so that infinity is (more or less) acurate?
You can add ground glass or frosted plastic to a hacked empty cartridge to help you get to correct infinity focus. Or you can load a new cartridge with the darkslide still in and measure 62mm from the seat of the extension ring mount to the darkslide. My adapters are pretty close, nearly dead on. Only reason I can't say they are 100% is because there is no published data for the true flange distance for Mamiya Press. I settled on 62mm from various tests but it's +- .5mm
I wonder if there is a way to keep the frames counting (eletronic part) and make the shutter button work just like the original ( one touch)
Hey, super cool! Where can i buy such adapters? Also available for M42 dread?
Link is in the description. :)
Do you think if i got your adapter and the mamiya press 90mm 3.5 that i could use the original of the instax 300 for approximate framing? Focal lenghts are pretty similar
He says at his webpage that u can use the 90mm or the 100mm. He recommends the 100mm, but it worth as well if you have the 90mm, also that one is cheaper than the 100mm.
wish i found this before i destroyed my lens group ahahhaa
good video，actually the orange wires would allow you to print your film with one click(instead of holding for 5 seconds)
Yes, there is some modification required on one of the gears. I now have updated instructions in link in the description.
I did it ! Thanks so much for the video ! I also made the “one touch shutter button mod”. Please, explain why the film gets stuck just for a little end portion after being ejected ? Does it mean I have to extend the channel on that internal gear just a little more? Thanks !!
I've never actually tried to troubleshoot this because it has happened to me a lot on the Lomograflok, and hardly at all on the Wide 300 mods. And whenever it did happen I just assumed it was film or temperature related.
How do you trigger the lens? Cable release?
Are the orange wires related to the flash? If so they could be linked to the lens shutter via a dangling PC cable and used when needed
Jacopo Abbruscato no they are for some sort of eject sensor/switch. Check my site for how they are used in single-press ejection of the film.
wanderlush can i use a Mamiya - Sekor C 1:2,8 f= 55mm S or a Mamiya-Sekor E 1:1.7 f=50mm with the adapter ?
He recommended, at his webpage, to use the 90mm or the 100mm, but he can reply u faster than here if you DM him through instagram.
Hey, just found your video and have a brocken instax wide 300 and a polaroid 600se lens laying around, so perfect for the hack!
But I am from europe and shipping of the adapter would be very expensive, but i have a 3d printer! So would you sell the 3d file too?
Did you get a response or find a solution? I’m in Germany :(
@@larsjnsn Unfortunately I didnt get a response, sorry
How to get accurate focus specially with open apertures? The Mamiya Sekor lens has a focus ring but you use the Universal Press rangefinder to focus accurately.
with this set up, you have to use a separate range finder to figure out the distance.
I use a laser rangefinder.
Are you pretty much sending all 6v to the motor (batteries in series), or are some of the batteries in parallel?
MixedMuscleArts yes, all 6v in series
Any idea how to get the Polaroid 600SE lenses on an EF mount?
I can do it but don't have a 600SE lens anymore to verify infinity. I can go off my previous measurements and it will be close, just not guaranteed.
Are you still making the cone/lens mount? How much do you sell them for? I have the 90mm
Still do, currently $39 at sprkplg.com/product/mp-wide300-adapter/
@@sprkplg Thanks! Will it be a problem shipping to the Philippines?
great what screwdrivers are those
Is it possible to do this on the 210 the older version of the 300?
Sam Garrett not sure, i have never experimented with one of those. In theory they should be similar. The adapter is unique to the Wide 300 though.
Very good! But i miss some photos.....
You need to see examples? Check the #mpwide300 tag on Instagram.
If you take out all the stuff that makes the instax lens shoot then how does camera take the picture?
The lens has the shutter and aperture needed to generate an image.
How you see focusing the image? Anyway, I followed your IG.
You don't see a focused image, that was not possible on the stock Instax Wide 300 either even though that one had 2 focus lengths. You either need to utilize zone focusing, or use a laser rangefinder. With my adapters I include an easy to use rangefinder card that helps.
Super curious how the photos turn out with a mod like this.
Mitch Gayle there are examples in the listings for the adapters. Landscape shots are sharper but where this setup really shines is portraits, so you get that nice subject isolation at wider apertures.
What type of screwdriver are you using to open the camera?
It’s just a small screwdriver, the specific one is a +2.0 bit, but any small screwdriver will work. Doesn’t have to be too tiny either.
Thank you!
How much do you sell these for? I’d be interested for sure
Harry Roth I no longer sell them cause I just don’t have as much free time anymore. It’s why I made this video and sell the adapters, or you can try the full DIY method if you have the macro extension tubes. Or make your own pinhole lens.
I just listed one on eBay, my latest version with 2 integrated cold shoe mounts and included laser rangefinder for easy focusing. Make me an offer and put a note that you're from youtube if interested. For sample images I have a few on Instagram, check #mpwide300
Wanderlus
Does this give it better low light capabilities?
Yes if you get one of the f/3.5 lenses, or the 100mm f/2.8
Will this work for a Mamiya RB, Hasselblad?
Nevermind. You adapt a lens to this camera. I was looking for the ejector mod to mount to the back of an RB
www.google.com/amp/s/www.digitaltrends.com/photography/escura-hasselblad-portrait-back-kickstarter/%3famp
A Hong Kong company did a Kickstarter with Hasselblad back. You can still purchase it 20% off now.
Do you have an Ebay store?
Not anymore unfortunately. I do have an online store but I am currently focusing on designing only.
Hey Dude. Awesome video. Do you have an email address so I can purchase the mount.
Brad Royine yeah in my about section, click on my Instagram link and on my profile there I have an email link.
hello;)
this is awesome,and i’m trying to gather supplies to do the mod as i speak..where can i find/what is you instagram @ name under?
@maxwanderlush
If you don't rip the wires off the microswitch at the bottom which engages the cam, you can just wire the motor in series with the micro switch, and the shutter button in parallel. In this way, the shutter button kick starts the motor, and the micro switch takes over and ejects the film, turning off after one film is ejected (though you may have to cut a bit of the leading edge of the cam off to turn off the motor a split second earlier. I just converted a pack film camera to Instax and show how I wired it. ruclips.net/video/M1XpKIrsm9c/видео.html
I'll have to post an update soon but I do it differently than this now. On my site I have a writeup on how to wire it for the ejection cycle. I haven't done a writeup for it yet but I'm also running a switch to kill the motor and prevent accidental ejections.
@@sprkplg The battery switch is a great idea--I have to be careful not to press the shutter button on mine... Also, how do you focus? Guesstimate? I think an interesting project would be to take an Instax back/motor and somehow fit it with a dark slide so you can focus with ground glass, then mount the back and remove the dark slide, but I'm not sure that's possible...
thewetcoast I shoot mostly in daytime now so I guess and hardly miss. A typical daytime well lit shot will be f/22-32 @ 1/500 so very forgiving depth of field. The project you describe that's essentially the Lomograflok back, its for use with 4x5 ground glass backs. I will be releasing a Mamiya Press body for that back. It will be a much better option than these mods.
@@sprkplg I guess a back like that would have to be a redesign like the Lomograflok because of the way the instax motor protrudes in front of the film plane, making it difficult to mount. And making it dark slide compatible would be a challenge! That Lomograflok back is very cool!
thewetcoast yeah, thats why I figured why reinvent it if a good solution for my own purposes is coming. For sure darkslides are a pain to design for, especially when the dimensions of the slides you have at your disposal may not be the same as others. Another point for the lomo.
Sell ?
“Craptacular”
sell me one ?
It would have been better if you showed the camera actually being used and the picture quality.
Interesting there are NO PHOTOS.
Best examples are on Instagram at the moment, check the tag #mpwide300.