I picked this lens up about a week ago after I got my first Fuji camera. I wanted to pick up a small lens for street photography and I love it. The only thing I can see people might have a problem with it is the lens flare at 1.7 but for me it actually gives a vintage look in certain situations.
@@rodgercarey3480 I have set it up for zone focusing. First, the distance markings sort of work but only if you line up with the aperture markings to the right and only for the 4' to 0.6". The longer markings from infinity to 4' are complete guesswork. And even then, the left side aperture markings do not correlate with the distance markings at all (unless I'm just doing something wrong here). It's not a linear focus throw and is simply more accurate and has more throw for the closer markings. But overall you can work it out quickly. I found that setting to F4, and then lining up to the right edge of the infinity symbol will give you a very good zone focus from about 12 feet to infinity. Again, unfortunately it focuses past infinity for me on my copy. No idea why so many new manual lenses do this, even the expensive Voigtlanders.
Mark, I've had this lens for 4 years now (the 1.8 version) and it's stays on my XPro2 maybe it's my version but it's super sharp and the image quality is outstanding!! I wish the earlier version had a clicked aperture, but it's not a deal breaker. I'm glad you were able to review this lens. thank you.
Great review. I love my TTArtisan 27mm for 'street', it's permanently on my FujiFilm X-M1, which is set to monochrome on the C setting. A great mix of 'old' and tech that seems to work so well.
how come? the vignetting is way too much, the only aperture you can use is f/8 cause 2.8 has too much vignetting and at apertures higher than f/8 sharpness pretty much doesnt exist.
Back when first got into photography with a 'proper camera' my a6000 I got some amazing lenses for the price that were discontinued a good few years back. They were Sigma Art lenses for apsc bodies, they did 3 in the set if want to call in that, a 19mm, 30mm and a 60mm ( 28.5, 45 and 90mm equivalent FF) the sharpness quality was amazing even wide open, you could see the great details in individual eye brow hairs etc.... All took 46mm screw on filters, and were small and compact. Retail price was £119.99. I have the 30mm and 60mm, shame I never had the 19mm. Well worth purchasing for Sony user on apsc if they come up second hand etc.
I bought the old 1.8 version soon after getting my Fuji X-T20 and still love using the combination for street photography. My copy of the 1.8 lens is very sharp, quite unlike the descriptions you quoted from other reviews.
I bought the Pergear 25mm on the strenght of your review. I already had 7 Artisans 25mm f/1.8 but, I hated the clickless aperture ring. I've used them both often now for a few weeks. The 7 Artisans 25 is clearly the better lens, sharper across the board. I still hate the clickless ring, but I think I will live with it. Interestingly, I had no problem with flare to speak of with the Pergear, but Pergear included a lens hoom with my copy and I always used it. But, do feel the 7 Artisans is a better lens.
Cheap and compact manual focus lenses, with weird color renditions, weird bokeh, and horrible light leaks. They are famous and loved because it’s a perfect instagram material. Like shooting with old-school cheap instant cameras.
I'll give you another one. The minimum wage in my country is $350. That is the money you have to live with for an entire month. These kind of cheap manual prime lenses are the only option someone like me has if I don't want to spend 6 months without eating and no roof just to buy a lens. It's not that I love the crappy chromatic aberration or the horrible deformed bokeh.
The style of this one is interesting. Looks very fun. I'm on mft, so the 2x crop is obviously a double edged sword, but I have the 50mm TT Artisan lens and it's amazing. I also have the Meike 25mm 1.8 lens. I wish the ring damping was a little stiffer, but it's a phenomenally fun lens to use and actually has a bit of its own color profile, but I'd also recommend the TT artisan 25mm f2 for most of the reasons you mention. This looks like a lot of fun though and finally looks like a pergear that'd be a very serious consideration for the balance of pros and cons.
I agree with you it's probably like that for historical reasons... But it's confusing. Ask chat GPT to give you the 10 most common lens in mm, and give the closest equivalent apsc and FullFrame mm, and the angle of view. Print this and be happy! You can also cut off a 16cm wide:9cm high rectangle on a box (hollow rectangle). Ask ChatGPT the distance you have to put this rectangle to visualise all theses camera angle. Ex if you look threw the triangle at 10 cm from your face it's a FF55mm, if you put it closer, it's a wide angle of FF10mm, if you put it far away, it's the same as a teleobjective FF400mm
Or even better, use a clear flat plastic sheet (look in the recycling bin). Measure a rectangle on a 16:9 ratio (you get a clear solid rectangle). Ask ChatGPT: I have a rectangle sheet of clear plastic 16cm wide and 9cm high. I would like to visualise the 10 most common camera field of view in apsc (or FF) when I hold this rectangle at a fix distance from my eye. I need you to build a table with the exact rectangle dimension for each lens. I also need you to tell me at what distance should I hold my plastic sheet.
A lens do not have an angle of view. It can be used with different sensor sizes. The focal length, on the other hand, do not change with camera body. A much better measure.
Thank you for the detailed review. I think the flare performance is very similar to uncoated or minimally coated lenses. I haven't visited the site to verify. It has that bloom that's common in non coated lenses.
It seems to ship with a lenshood now. Does anybody have experience with that regarding flare? I read other comments which stated that they could not tame it with several third party lens hoods.
i understand that you are in Australia and and still i think your lens price is in USD instead of AUD. it will help some people watching your channel first time from guessing otherwise
Hey Mark. Based on other reviews of several of these inexpensive lenses you have reviewed, I think that flaring, contrast, sharpness, etc., can be different depending on sensor size and technology. Therefore, I think you should consider testing some of these lenses on different brand cameras besides Fuji (Sony, Nikon, etc.) and maybe even different formats, like micro four thirds, where others have commented that traits such as excessive flare are not as pronounced. Just a thought...
this is an amazing find! i had never heard of pergear and was considering the ttartisan 25mm f2 for a small everyday street and travel lens but i really like the colors of this one and the flare as well! especially in the church scene
On the popularity factor - amateur shooters everywhere disproportionally praise budget/not expensive lenses that produce better/nicer/more interesting image than any kit lens, without really knowing or having experience with more and more expensive lenses in general. And that goes up even more as the price go down. So you often end up with feeling that any 'glorified kit lens' 24-105/4 is just magic and 85/1.8 can't be beaten, and how could anyone want more ;) So yeah, this is usable for the money optically, but it would be nice to include some similar not-the-cheapest AF lens for some perspective ;)
These cheap lenses have their place for sure. I'm impressed with the feel of most of these lenses and some even have a clicked aperture. Yes I love my Leica glass but it's nice to have something that has character, is tiny and not that expensive to just throw in the bag for an everyday carry. Great video. :)
I've bought two copies of this lens and neither sample had any appreciable difference in aperture size (or exposure) between f/1.7 and f/2.8. Is this consistent with the experience of others?
Newbie here: Short question. If I buy the mft version of this lense, will the FOV move up to a 50mm FullFrame equivalent since the cropfaktor differs from an APSC Sensor? i would maiinly go for street/travel so i would rather be on the little lower than higher side of focal lenghts for that purpose
Have the 1.8 version, and its fabulous. It looks great. (Better than this model imo), operation is smooth as butter, and like you said it puts this bit of analog filmic 'magic' into the images with zero effort from me. Curious to try this too, although i'm in no hurry :D
Hi mark need some good cheapest lens for my sony a6600 whichbi purchased now. Please tell what lens can i go with firatly in ultrabudget third party lenses
The flare looks extremely similar to my TTArtisan 25mm f2 wide open. Maybe it's a fraction worse on this lens, but not much. When shooting against light I just lose all contrast unless I stop it down to 2.8. That flare-circle also looks nearly identical.
Yes, I have both, the Pergear is worse for sure. It flares when I can't even figure out where the light is coming from, even flares from an overcast sky at times. They are both super fun, cheap lenses.
looks like a nice lens to have I like the form factor size of it also, would be good on my XT30. I think that I could live with the flare and the sharpness looks fantastic.......
How is it for "sun stars"? How many aperture blades? I can't find the specs on the Pergear website. My TTArtisans has 8 blades and produces good sun stars... i.e., night photographs in which street lights become decorative.
Can’t speak for other brands, but I assume they are similar. on Sony, you can choose whether to use the entire full frame sensor, or a crop portion of the sensor for APSC lenses. Electronic APSC lenses will automatically tell the camera to use crop sensor. Since these are manual lenses, you could probably also use the APSC lens in full frame format, meaning the edges will be completely vignetted, kind of a cool effect if you like unusual things.
Is it just me or Chinese branded lenses have too much oil in the creases.. I have a Pergear macro lens and my hands are always oily after using it. I can see oil marks on the lens on this video as well.
It happens when they use oil based grease, it will bleed oil especially after exposure to hot temperature. This doesn't happen with silica based grease commonly used in rebuilding old lenses.
It’s really just a video about the lens, it’s up to you to make any of those decisions. I have plenty of lenses, a lens like this is a fun lens with a unique look, at low price, it up to you to decide if that’s for you.
Big fan of your format. I really like the pre-amble and back story about the lens. I think most viewers actually prefer your style. Know that I subscribed to your channel today! I particularly loved the pics and videos of Sydney. Hard to take a bad photo there.
The Amazon reviews on this lens have people complaining it doesn't fit properly with Sony E mount - it doesn't quite click into place. Is this a problem with all copies or just the experiences of these few reviews?
@@markwiemels Thanks Mark. At the moment I'm torn between this, and the £70ish 25mm lenses from TTartisan and 7artisan. Any preferences on each of these?
@@markwiemelsSo you did! I don't know how I missed that bit! 😂 Looks like there are pros and cons of all of them that sort of cancel each other out. While I've got your attention, I would love to see a comparison review between all the 23/24mm AF lenses available on E mount. Viltrox do a couple, Samyang too, and then what I would call "premium" in this APS-C space, the Sigma. Lots of different prices here, and is it worth spending the extra for the Sigma etc
I've been watching your channel for a few months now since i first started getting into cameras, and being new to cameras I didn't really know the lens manufacturers etc so it was a little difficult to follow your videos. The thing I found a little irritating which I recently read in the comments aswell was that you never mention the name of the lenses, but I was happily surprised in this video, it was more suspensful than irritating, thank you for the change in approach, much appreciated and subscribed now. I hope the click-through rate for the links doesn't drop and affect anything.
Another great review. I love your take on affordable lenses. I shoot full frame and am curious if you have tried the PERGEAR 35mm F1.4 Full-Frame. Even though this is a full frame lens and is extremely fast for its compact size, its still just barely over $100.
@@markwiemels Just watched your video on the 1.4, very tempting lens, but it would sure be nice if they gave it an update to improve its sharpness like they did on this more recent lens you reviewed.
It's the center of the focal plane. The hash marks are the depth of field for different apertures, but they don't mean much as they aren't noted. But I guess you could assume that the widest hash marks are f22, maybe f16, and the intermediate hashes are something in between. There are 3 hash marks. I'm guesssing f4, f8, and either f16 or f22. It's hard to say what the last one might be as f16 isn't actually on the dial, only a white dot next to f22. It's a small lens, so f16 probably didn't fit. There are aperature clicks between each stop I've listed. But it doesn't exactly match up as there are 3 stops after f8. I could all be wrong about this, see below. Maybe but I think I'm right. Traditionally, a red dot is used for using infrared film. It's an offset from the center hash which is traditionally a longer hash, you adjust the focus from long hash to the red dot with infrared film. There is a small black dot to the left of the larger red dot on this lens, and it is centered on the hash marks. It's there, so it's a bit confusing as it breaks with traditional DoF markings on older film lenses. So, I could be absolutely wrong and it could be that it does follow normal convention. That black dot might be the center of focal plane. But it'd be weird as the red dot isn't usually centered on the hash marks as it is on this lens. So, I'm guessing. And infrared doesn't make a lot of sense as you'd either need to use a filter or get the sensor recalibrated for that kind of photography on digital cameras. None of this makes a lot of sense to me. But I've only ever just used those marks for reference on stopped down photography where you want to extend the focal plane forward on landscapes. In this situation, you'd put infinity on the rightmost hash and focal plane would extend to whatever the left most hash aligns to on the focus markings. In this case if you align infinity to the rightmost hash, 0.7m aligns to the leftmost hash. So if you wanted the foreground at 0.7m out of focus you'd move the infinity toward the center center of focus hash, which I guess is that red dot. With infinity on the red dot, 5 ft or about 1.5m is where the focal plane starts. [Note: different lenses focus CW or CCW, this assumes infinity it to the right, so CW to move the focal plane closer.]
i think a comparison video b/t both versions would be worthwhile since i think they may have changed the optical formula.. and pergear still sells both versions at a similar price. thamks for the content, glad you are giving budget lens companies some shine!
Sooooo im super new and just beginning with photography in general. I thought i would try it out with a cheat camera and so i got the canon rebel t7... I dont think qny of these lens mounts linked work for my camera, is that correct? Love any input on similar lens maybe if these dont work!
The Canon Rebel T7 is a DSLR, with a mirror directing the image to the optical viewfinder. All these lenses are for mirrorless cameras and will not work with DSLRs. I'm not very familiar with the range of lenses in Canon EF or EF-S mount, but none of the Chinese brands have anything in this focal length range for DSLRs. Your best bet is probably the Canon EF-S 24mm F/2.8 STM, which you can get used for around $100.
i’m new here and i love it, all of the videos you put out are interesting, are you planning to do a review of the 7artisan 27mm af by any chance? cause i was leaning towards the tta with same specs but the 7artisan is appealing too, and now with this video idk if i should just take a manual focus lens and get to work on my focus skills
Yes, I have it and will make a video. Manual focus is very rewarding and makes you more connected with what you are creating. I mostly shoot manual focus these days.
Mark, what are these piggy thingies in 11:30? I had a discussion with my gf about their nature) Great review, btw. Now I should convince myself that I don't need another lens)
Thanks for pointing out the flare issue. I had tried the 35mm f1.6 from Pergear, similar story, fine in daylight, sharp, nice rendering but at night under street lighting etc, just awful. In the end I went to Voigtlander, for some 6x the price!
What is the coverage on full frame? I'm asking this because i own a brightin star 35mm and when used on a full frame it gives an amazing vignette and vintage look in the corners
I love that this lens has a silver coloring in the middle. It goes will with silver and black camera bodies. Thanks for the review Mark! Man that shot inside the church of the guy with the bag and the Sydney shots are awesome!
Yes! I love that one too! my favourite clip in the video. It's St Pauls in Melbourne, the lighting there is great and it kinda just flared the lens a bit to make it look like film, was soo cool.
So I ordered this lens for my R7 and R6 mark ii. It fits on fine but I can't get it to actually take a photo. An I doing something wrong or is there a truck to get an all Manuel lens to work on a camera?
They are both somewhat character lenses, one isn't better than the other. Different focal lengths, so you would not really buy one over the other, you would first work out what focal length you like or need.
That's the reflection of the soft box with grid on it that you're seeing. It' does look a lot like a thumb print! Thanks for the heads up, just in case.
I intentionally leave this up to your judgement. If there was a clear "best" lens, I would tell you, but these are all character lenses, it's just a question of which one you prefer. I have detailed videos on all 3 lenses, pick the one that makes the images you connect with.
I really enjoy shooting with the f1.8 version, the one I have is under the brand Brightin Star. I wish these Chinese manufacturers would make a decent small 18mm apsc lens instead of churning out so many 25mms though. I do prefer closer to 28mm FF so I'm stuck with using the Kamlan 21mm until one of these manus make a small/pancake 18-20mm that's not a crappy body cap lens.
Kamlan is good, even though I do not use it towards mfd (12mm) - where it is quite good. Usually I close the aperture for landscape. Nice build, and nice lens, really.
Videos are all SOOC, some of the photos have been tweaked, but not heavily edited. I try to give a good indication of what the lens can do, in the hands of someone that does't edit the photos or videos.
@@markwiemels And I wonder if the flaring would be equally bad on M4/3 since is uses a smaller image circle. I'm an Olympus shooter so I'm intrigued. I think I'll buy one and see how it performs. With a hood, of course.
@@gaoldias I think having it on a M43 is just like cropping the image. Only flare that would be on the complete edge of a picture on an APS-C image would disappear on an M43 lens. So I wouldn't expect a real noteworthy difference. The TTartisan 25mm f2 has a tiny bit more control over the aperture in the low end (stops at 2, 2.5 and 2.8) and that might let you control the flare a little bit more. Not sure. Mark reviewed that one too, so if Flare is of concern it might be worth checking that review too.
@@OttosTheName It's not a big concern for me. If I use a hood and/or stop down, it should produce less or even no flare. Interesting little lens. I like that it seems to be sharp.
I picked this lens up about a week ago after I got my first Fuji camera. I wanted to pick up a small lens for street photography and I love it. The only thing I can see people might have a problem with it is the lens flare at 1.7 but for me it actually gives a vintage look in certain situations.
I have the 7artisans 25mm F1.8 incredibly sharp. Renders lovely colours. Close up photos are so good given the right light.
Do you ever set it for zone focusing like for street photography?
@@rodgercarey3480 no I havent
@@rodgercarey3480 I have set it up for zone focusing. First, the distance markings sort of work but only if you line up with the aperture markings to the right and only for the 4' to 0.6". The longer markings from infinity to 4' are complete guesswork. And even then, the left side aperture markings do not correlate with the distance markings at all (unless I'm just doing something wrong here). It's not a linear focus throw and is simply more accurate and has more throw for the closer markings. But overall you can work it out quickly.
I found that setting to F4, and then lining up to the right edge of the infinity symbol will give you a very good zone focus from about 12 feet to infinity. Again, unfortunately it focuses past infinity for me on my copy. No idea why so many new manual lenses do this, even the expensive Voigtlanders.
Just ordered the 25mm 1.8 lens, for my Fuji xe2.📷
Mark, I've had this lens for 4 years now (the 1.8 version) and it's stays on my XPro2 maybe it's my version but it's super sharp and the image quality is outstanding!! I wish the earlier version had a clicked aperture, but it's not a deal breaker. I'm glad you were able to review this lens. thank you.
Thanks for the info! I prefer the clicked aperture as well.
The 23mm F1.4 from TTArtisan is still my fave in this ballpark! Great video as usual.
Thanks for bringing that lens up! I bought it, but had not used it yet.
The TT 23mm f1.4 is literally one of the best lenses available, period, at any price range.
@@markwiemels its a great value for money lens, a favourite of mine for street - using a Fuji and Punchy Parr film simulation.
On your advice I bought the TTArtisan APS- 25mm F2.0. Not a patch on the Fujifilm 27mm F2.8 auto focus.
Great review. I love my TTArtisan 27mm for 'street', it's permanently on my FujiFilm X-M1, which is set to monochrome on the C setting. A great mix of 'old' and tech that seems to work so well.
Such a super fun lens!
how come? the vignetting is way too much, the only aperture you can use is f/8 cause 2.8 has too much vignetting and at apertures higher than f/8 sharpness pretty much doesnt exist.
Back when first got into photography with a 'proper camera' my a6000 I got some amazing lenses for the price that were discontinued a good few years back. They were Sigma Art lenses for apsc bodies, they did 3 in the set if want to call in that, a 19mm, 30mm and a 60mm ( 28.5, 45 and 90mm equivalent FF) the sharpness quality was amazing even wide open, you could see the great details in individual eye brow hairs etc.... All took 46mm screw on filters, and were small and compact. Retail price was £119.99. I have the 30mm and 60mm, shame I never had the 19mm. Well worth purchasing for Sony user on apsc if they come up second hand etc.
I bought the old 1.8 version soon after getting my Fuji X-T20 and still love using the combination for street photography. My copy of the 1.8 lens is very sharp, quite unlike the descriptions you quoted from other reviews.
I bought the Pergear 25mm on the strenght of your review. I already had 7 Artisans 25mm f/1.8 but, I hated the clickless aperture ring. I've used them both often now for a few weeks. The 7 Artisans 25 is clearly the better lens, sharper across the board. I still hate the clickless ring, but I think I will live with it. Interestingly, I had no problem with flare to speak of with the Pergear, but Pergear included a lens hoom with my copy and I always used it. But, do feel the 7 Artisans is a better lens.
Cheap and compact manual focus lenses, with weird color renditions, weird bokeh, and horrible light leaks. They are famous and loved because it’s a perfect instagram material. Like shooting with old-school cheap instant cameras.
Well, I´ll save time ...
You mean by using your phone?
I'll give you another one. The minimum wage in my country is $350. That is the money you have to live with for an entire month. These kind of cheap manual prime lenses are the only option someone like me has if I don't want to spend 6 months without eating and no roof just to buy a lens. It's not that I love the crappy chromatic aberration or the horrible deformed bokeh.
@@RJSOW Go ahead, take pictures. The art is in your mind....
@@alexced3923dude what lmao
The style of this one is interesting. Looks very fun. I'm on mft, so the 2x crop is obviously a double edged sword, but I have the 50mm TT Artisan lens and it's amazing. I also have the Meike 25mm 1.8 lens. I wish the ring damping was a little stiffer, but it's a phenomenally fun lens to use and actually has a bit of its own color profile, but I'd also recommend the TT artisan 25mm f2 for most of the reasons you mention. This looks like a lot of fun though and finally looks like a pergear that'd be a very serious consideration for the balance of pros and cons.
I wish we'd describe lenses by their angle of view, not their focal length. Imagine never having to do math to figure out equivalency.
Seriously
I agree with you it's probably like that for historical reasons... But it's confusing. Ask chat GPT to give you the 10 most common lens in mm, and give the closest equivalent apsc and FullFrame mm, and the angle of view. Print this and be happy! You can also cut off a 16cm wide:9cm high rectangle on a box (hollow rectangle). Ask ChatGPT the distance you have to put this rectangle to visualise all theses camera angle. Ex if you look threw the triangle at 10 cm from your face it's a FF55mm, if you put it closer, it's a wide angle of FF10mm, if you put it far away, it's the same as a teleobjective FF400mm
Or even better, use a clear flat plastic sheet (look in the recycling bin). Measure a rectangle on a 16:9 ratio (you get a clear solid rectangle). Ask ChatGPT: I have a rectangle sheet of clear plastic 16cm wide and 9cm high. I would like to visualise the 10 most common camera field of view in apsc (or FF) when I hold this rectangle at a fix distance from my eye. I need you to build a table with the exact rectangle dimension for each lens. I also need you to tell me at what distance should I hold my plastic sheet.
A lens do not have an angle of view. It can be used with different sensor sizes. The focal length, on the other hand, do not change with camera body. A much better measure.
Thank you for the detailed review. I think the flare performance is very similar to uncoated or minimally coated lenses. I haven't visited the site to verify. It has that bloom that's common in non coated lenses.
It seems to ship with a lenshood now. Does anybody have experience with that regarding flare? I read other comments which stated that they could not tame it with several third party lens hoods.
i understand that you are in Australia and and still i think your lens price is in USD instead of AUD. it will help some people watching your channel first time from guessing otherwise
Is he talking in AUD? Ive always assumed he's talking in USD since most of his viewers are probably in the US.
Hey Mark. Based on other reviews of several of these inexpensive lenses you have reviewed, I think that flaring, contrast, sharpness, etc., can be different depending on sensor size and technology. Therefore, I think you should consider testing some of these lenses on different brand cameras besides Fuji (Sony, Nikon, etc.) and maybe even different formats, like micro four thirds, where others have commented that traits such as excessive flare are not as pronounced. Just a thought...
Good idea! Thanks!
this is an amazing find! i had never heard of pergear and was considering the ttartisan 25mm f2 for a small everyday street and travel lens but i really like the colors of this one and the flare as well! especially in the church scene
Debating on this, the ttartisan 23mm f1.4, or the ttartisan 25mm f2. Looking for sharpness, details, and sometimes low light street photography.
Best options for the $$$$$$ love it !!!
Pergear is the name of the company, that owns the TTArtisan brand.
@Mark Wiesel’s, instead of asking about what lenses you like, what if I ask you what kind of photography you wish you could be the best at?
Probably landscape, I think it's the most challenging.
@markwiemels interesting, what makes that more challenging than other forms that might including moving objects?
On the popularity factor - amateur shooters everywhere disproportionally praise budget/not expensive lenses that produce better/nicer/more interesting image than any kit lens, without really knowing or having experience with more and more expensive lenses in general. And that goes up even more as the price go down.
So you often end up with feeling that any 'glorified kit lens' 24-105/4 is just magic and 85/1.8 can't be beaten, and how could anyone want more ;)
So yeah, this is usable for the money optically, but it would be nice to include some similar not-the-cheapest AF lens for some perspective ;)
These cheap lenses have their place for sure. I'm impressed with the feel of most of these lenses and some even have a clicked aperture. Yes I love my Leica glass but it's nice to have something that has character, is tiny and not that expensive to just throw in the bag for an everyday carry. Great video. :)
Agree and thanks!
kinda like the apsc version of the voigtlander 40mm f2 that i use a lot for nikon. It's what i usually bring if I can only bring 1 lens
I love that lens!
It’s gorgeous when I adapt it to my Fuji GFX50s
Yeah, you convinced me with the sharpness.
Ordered one from your link, my Canon might just love it ^^
Thanks a bunch!
I've bought two copies of this lens and neither sample had any appreciable difference in aperture size (or exposure) between f/1.7 and f/2.8. Is this consistent with the experience of others?
U are doing great work on this site. I always watch yr progrms. Well done
Thanks!
Newbie here: Short question. If I buy the mft version of this lense, will the FOV move up to a 50mm FullFrame equivalent since the cropfaktor differs from an APSC Sensor? i would maiinly go for street/travel so i would rather be on the little lower than higher side of focal lenghts for that purpose
It works nicely on my G7. Going back to basics with shutter priority, manual adjustments, and a 50mm equivalent.
Just started into photography and purchased Fujifilm x pro 1, would this lens be compatible with the camera
Yes.
Have the 1.8 version, and its fabulous. It looks great. (Better than this model imo), operation is smooth as butter, and like you said it puts this bit of analog filmic 'magic' into the images with zero effort from me. Curious to try this too, although i'm in no hurry :D
Just ordered this w your affiliate link. Thanks for these videos!
Awesome! Thank you!
@@markwiemels Im loving it too.
Why do not you add the lens name to the video title and description?
Hi mark need some good cheapest lens for my sony a6600 whichbi purchased now. Please tell what lens can i go with firatly in ultrabudget third party lenses
Have you reviewed any budget 16mm and 18mm lenses👍📷
The flare looks extremely similar to my TTArtisan 25mm f2 wide open. Maybe it's a fraction worse on this lens, but not much. When shooting against light I just lose all contrast unless I stop it down to 2.8. That flare-circle also looks nearly identical.
Yes, I have both, the Pergear is worse for sure. It flares when I can't even figure out where the light is coming from, even flares from an overcast sky at times. They are both super fun, cheap lenses.
looks like a nice lens to have I like the form factor size of it also, would be good on my XT30. I think that I could live with the flare and the sharpness looks fantastic.......
How is it for "sun stars"? How many aperture blades? I can't find the specs on the Pergear website. My TTArtisans has 8 blades and produces good sun stars... i.e., night photographs in which street lights become decorative.
Do you mean bokeh balls? To get sunstars at night you'd need to be using a very narrow aperture (high f number) and long exposure
Oh- looked at the link and the description said “designed for APS-C” but you mentioned using on full frame- comment please?
Can’t speak for other brands, but I assume they are similar. on Sony, you can choose whether to use the entire full frame sensor, or a crop portion of the sensor for APSC lenses. Electronic APSC lenses will automatically tell the camera to use crop sensor. Since these are manual lenses, you could probably also use the APSC lens in full frame format, meaning the edges will be completely vignetted, kind of a cool effect if you like unusual things.
Is it just me or Chinese branded lenses have too much oil in the creases.. I have a Pergear macro lens and my hands are always oily after using it. I can see oil marks on the lens on this video as well.
Yes, I have noticed this too, some do.
It happens when they use oil based grease, it will bleed oil especially after exposure to hot temperature. This doesn't happen with silica based grease commonly used in rebuilding old lenses.
I`ve been loving my TTArtisan APS-C 10mm F2 but I will check this out too :)
Just subbed man, really inspirational content. Hoping you get that 100K!
Love your amazingly detailed and comprehensive reviews! Keep 'em coming! Fully appreciate the amount of work that you're putting in.
Thanks! So kind of you to say.
Very helpful thoughts on these - thanks a ton, Mark.
Looks fab, but what makes this lens so good that it can replace the autofocus 25mm f1.8 lenses people already own?
It’s really just a video about the lens, it’s up to you to make any of those decisions. I have plenty of lenses, a lens like this is a fun lens with a unique look, at low price, it up to you to decide if that’s for you.
Big fan of your format. I really like the pre-amble and back story about the lens. I think most viewers actually prefer your style. Know that I subscribed to your channel today! I particularly loved the pics and videos of Sydney. Hard to take a bad photo there.
Thanks, yes, I am continuing to experiment with the format. I like the little story at the start.
Love finding out stuff frim your excellent videos
I'm enjoying my Voightlander 25f4 Snapshot Skopar MC ltm. "F8 and be there!"
I love f8 and be there.
The Amazon reviews on this lens have people complaining it doesn't fit properly with Sony E mount - it doesn't quite click into place. Is this a problem with all copies or just the experiences of these few reviews?
Mine is fine. With Amazon, if you have issues, it’s such an easy return process, so it’s not something to be too concerned about.
@@markwiemels Thanks Mark.
At the moment I'm torn between this, and the £70ish 25mm lenses from TTartisan and 7artisan. Any preferences on each of these?
@@northernfocusmcr I did my best to sum this up at the end of the video. They all have their own look and strong points.
@@markwiemelsSo you did! I don't know how I missed that bit! 😂 Looks like there are pros and cons of all of them that sort of cancel each other out.
While I've got your attention, I would love to see a comparison review between all the 23/24mm AF lenses available on E mount. Viltrox do a couple, Samyang too, and then what I would call "premium" in this APS-C space, the Sigma. Lots of different prices here, and is it worth spending the extra for the Sigma etc
thank you so much! so helpful
I've been watching your channel for a few months now since i first started getting into cameras, and being new to cameras I didn't really know the lens manufacturers etc so it was a little difficult to follow your videos.
The thing I found a little irritating which I recently read in the comments aswell was that you never mention the name of the lenses, but I was happily surprised in this video, it was more suspensful than irritating, thank you for the change in approach, much appreciated and subscribed now.
I hope the click-through rate for the links doesn't drop and affect anything.
Thanks for the feedback, I continue to experiment with this.
It's almost similar to 7Artisan's 25mm F1.8.
Whats the brand??
Another great review. I love your take on affordable lenses. I shoot full frame and am curious if you have tried the PERGEAR 35mm F1.4 Full-Frame. Even though this is a full frame lens and is extremely fast for its compact size, its still just barely over $100.
Yep, I made a video about it.
@@markwiemels Just watched your video on the 1.4, very tempting lens, but it would sure be nice if they gave it an update to improve its sharpness like they did on this more recent lens you reviewed.
@@jamescaldwell5 agree. It needs it. Hopefully they will.
Can you share best virtual tours fish eye lens for mirrorless cameras
I ordered a copy from your link right after you released the video and the company still has not shipped it. High demand they say, not cool.
Yeah, brand new lens and the old one version was so popular.
What is the red dot on the silver ring in between the focus and aperture ring for??
It's the center of the focal plane. The hash marks are the depth of field for different apertures, but they don't mean much as they aren't noted. But I guess you could assume that the widest hash marks are f22, maybe f16, and the intermediate hashes are something in between. There are 3 hash marks. I'm guesssing f4, f8, and either f16 or f22. It's hard to say what the last one might be as f16 isn't actually on the dial, only a white dot next to f22. It's a small lens, so f16 probably didn't fit. There are aperature clicks between each stop I've listed. But it doesn't exactly match up as there are 3 stops after f8. I could all be wrong about this, see below. Maybe but I think I'm right.
Traditionally, a red dot is used for using infrared film. It's an offset from the center hash which is traditionally a longer hash, you adjust the focus from long hash to the red dot with infrared film. There is a small black dot to the left of the larger red dot on this lens, and it is centered on the hash marks. It's there, so it's a bit confusing as it breaks with traditional DoF markings on older film lenses. So, I could be absolutely wrong and it could be that it does follow normal convention. That black dot might be the center of focal plane. But it'd be weird as the red dot isn't usually centered on the hash marks as it is on this lens. So, I'm guessing. And infrared doesn't make a lot of sense as you'd either need to use a filter or get the sensor recalibrated for that kind of photography on digital cameras. None of this makes a lot of sense to me. But I've only ever just used those marks for reference on stopped down photography where you want to extend the focal plane forward on landscapes. In this situation, you'd put infinity on the rightmost hash and focal plane would extend to whatever the left most hash aligns to on the focus markings. In this case if you align infinity to the rightmost hash, 0.7m aligns to the leftmost hash. So if you wanted the foreground at 0.7m out of focus you'd move the infinity toward the center center of focus hash, which I guess is that red dot. With infinity on the red dot, 5 ft or about 1.5m is where the focal plane starts. [Note: different lenses focus CW or CCW, this assumes infinity it to the right, so CW to move the focal plane closer.]
Does it have a different character from its mark 1 version of f1.8? And would you recommend people to change to this f1.7 version?
I can't really say, as I don't have the first one.
i think a comparison video b/t both versions would be worthwhile since i think they may have changed the optical formula.. and pergear still sells both versions at a similar price.
thamks for the content, glad you are giving budget lens companies some shine!
This would be perfect for my fx30 recording big bands
Lol love the hi vis worker in church with a woolies bag, how Australian.
He was praying to a cold case of VB.
@@markwiemels as the good lord intended.
Too bad I couldn’t find this lens sold in my country (Malaysia) 😢
Sooooo im super new and just beginning with photography in general. I thought i would try it out with a cheat camera and so i got the canon rebel t7... I dont think qny of these lens mounts linked work for my camera, is that correct? Love any input on similar lens maybe if these dont work!
The Canon Rebel T7 is a DSLR, with a mirror directing the image to the optical viewfinder. All these lenses are for mirrorless cameras and will not work with DSLRs. I'm not very familiar with the range of lenses in Canon EF or EF-S mount, but none of the Chinese brands have anything in this focal length range for DSLRs. Your best bet is probably the Canon EF-S 24mm F/2.8 STM, which you can get used for around $100.
I might get this lens to compare my other cheap budget lens.
Please do more reviews for aps-c lenses under 100$ I love these videos
audio seems to be out of phase. Informative video :)
I'd like Sony to re-engineer their 16mm pancake.
I have that lens but as for me it s too tight for me had bad sharpness at wide open
You are quickly becoming my favorite photo gear reviewer. Bravo and keep up the good work.
i’m new here and i love it, all of the videos you put out are interesting, are you planning to do a review of the 7artisan 27mm af by any chance? cause i was leaning towards the tta with same specs but the 7artisan is appealing too, and now with this video idk if i should just take a manual focus lens and get to work on my focus skills
Yes, I have it and will make a video. Manual focus is very rewarding and makes you more connected with what you are creating. I mostly shoot manual focus these days.
Pantex makes a mirrorless and it's not in here
When you specified all brands
Therefore Pentax K-mount should be on this list
I bought this lens four years ago. It's a fun and funky lens that I'll have to take out and shoot with again.
Mark, what are these piggy thingies in 11:30? I had a discussion with my gf about their nature)
Great review, btw. Now I should convince myself that I don't need another lens)
They are sweet buns. It's like a soft fluffy sweet thing with custard inside, it an Asian desert.
I really enjoy your videos but i wish you would at least say the name of the lens once
Yes, I did, multiple times, I think the brand is unknown to most people so they mentally discard the information, which is understandable.
Thanks for pointing out the flare issue. I had tried the 35mm f1.6 from Pergear, similar story, fine in daylight, sharp, nice rendering but at night under street lighting etc, just awful. In the end I went to Voigtlander, for some 6x the price!
What is the coverage on full frame? I'm asking this because i own a brightin star 35mm and when used on a full frame it gives an amazing vignette and vintage look in the corners
nothing?
The elephant in the room not talked about unfortunatly: Hard stop infinity. Can it be adjusted ?
It has the adjustment screws, so I assume so. Mine works perfectly at the moment.
@@markwiemels Thank you 🙋🏻♂️
The thing is inexpensive enough that I can get one and have a try at declicking the thing and converting a micro 4/3 mount to an ef-m mount.
This is like the Home Shopper Network for camera junkies.
Good old sydney australia when were you guys there?
A couple of weeks ago, such a cool city.
I love that this lens has a silver coloring in the middle. It goes will with silver and black camera bodies. Thanks for the review Mark!
Man that shot inside the church of the guy with the bag and the Sydney shots are awesome!
Yes! I love that one too! my favourite clip in the video. It's St Pauls in Melbourne, the lighting there is great and it kinda just flared the lens a bit to make it look like film, was soo cool.
So I ordered this lens for my R7 and R6 mark ii. It fits on fine but I can't get it to actually take a photo. An I doing something wrong or is there a truck to get an all Manuel lens to work on a camera?
Yes, there is a setting, release shutter without lens, you need to turn that on.
@@markwiemels oh duh .. I guess I'm getting old... Wait I am old already😁 thanks for the help
Is this better than something like 7artisans' 35mm 1.2?
They are both somewhat character lenses, one isn't better than the other. Different focal lengths, so you would not really buy one over the other, you would first work out what focal length you like or need.
Just ordered this from your links. Be a nice lens to play with.
You'll love it.
I have the R7 and the R6 Mark II. So I'll see which one it works best on
Always come here for the Melbourne shots. Visited earlier this year and loved the place.
It has flare because of that LARGE thumbprint @ 02:30 and @10:06. ??
That's the reflection of the soft box with grid on it that you're seeing. It' does look a lot like a thumb print! Thanks for the heads up, just in case.
I've owned the 1.8 version for years and it is very sharp
A video on budget fisheye lenses would be greatly appreciated! 🙏
Mark, if you could only keep one of the 3 lenses, which would it be?
I intentionally leave this up to your judgement. If there was a clear "best" lens, I would tell you, but these are all character lenses, it's just a question of which one you prefer. I have detailed videos on all 3 lenses, pick the one that makes the images you connect with.
I've always found that Pergear, like Mieke, just doesn't match the build quality of TTArtisan and &Artisans. Go with the TTArtisan 25mm f2.
I'm pretty impressed with this one, I think it's on par.
I really enjoy shooting with the f1.8 version, the one I have is under the brand Brightin Star. I wish these Chinese manufacturers would make a decent small 18mm apsc lens instead of churning out so many 25mms though. I do prefer closer to 28mm FF so I'm stuck with using the Kamlan 21mm until one of these manus make a small/pancake 18-20mm that's not a crappy body cap lens.
Agree, I love 28mm FF FOV.
Kamlan is good, even though I do not use it towards mfd (12mm) - where it is quite good. Usually I close the aperture for landscape. Nice build, and nice lens, really.
@@ivansusic562 it's a great lens! Love using it, just wished it was shorter and lighter.
Plan to buy xs-10 for family and regular use, please suggest give allrounder performance budget third-party lens.. please replay
TT Artisan 35mm F1.4
So, is this good for raw photography as well? Not feeling JPEG.
Yes.
EOS-M are for the most part sold out
All still and moving image straight out from camera or edited?
Videos are all SOOC, some of the photos have been tweaked, but not heavily edited. I try to give a good indication of what the lens can do, in the hands of someone that does't edit the photos or videos.
What camera was used?
Oh, Thanks for the reminder, should add that to the description, Fuji XH2, default color/settings.
Really love the shots of Melbourne, Mark! Have you been filming here?
It's where I live.
I guess all these cheap manual lenses have no coating applied to the glass.
They all have coatings, just some are higher quality/spec than others.
I haven't watched the video yet but i know the lens thanks for covering it ❤
Sure thing!
Mitigate at least some of the flare problems by using a hood. Or did you do that and still had terrible flare?
It would for sure, no, I didn't use a hood.
@@markwiemels And I wonder if the flaring would be equally bad on M4/3 since is uses a smaller image circle. I'm an Olympus shooter so I'm intrigued. I think I'll buy one and see how it performs. With a hood, of course.
@@gaoldias I think having it on a M43 is just like cropping the image. Only flare that would be on the complete edge of a picture on an APS-C image would disappear on an M43 lens. So I wouldn't expect a real noteworthy difference.
The TTartisan 25mm f2 has a tiny bit more control over the aperture in the low end (stops at 2, 2.5 and 2.8) and that might let you control the flare a little bit more. Not sure. Mark reviewed that one too, so if Flare is of concern it might be worth checking that review too.
@@OttosTheName It's not a big concern for me. If I use a hood and/or stop down, it should produce less or even no flare. Interesting little lens. I like that it seems to be sharp.
Wish they would start making lenses for L-Mount - hopefully the rumors of an L s35 camera are true as I don't mind shooting in s35 mode
too bad no K mount
Mark! I gather it does NOT have a Nikon Fx fitting only the Z fitting!
No, mirrorless only.
That's what the manufacturer's website says.
😢
Cries in eos t5 😢