I've been shooting street for years and have only had one confrontation and that person was clearly unstable and most likely on drugs... The looking past the subject tip works like a charm--often has them apologizing for being in your frame!
I had a street photographer take a pic of me once. It was a cool experience. I was a cop for a long time, (retired now), and one time I was jumping on the freeway in my patrol car and cleared my blind spot left. When I did I saw the passenger in a car next to me with a camera. He looked at me and motioned like he was asking permission to take my picture. I nodded yes and gave him a thumbs up. He snapped a couple right before I jumped off the freeway. It was easy because it was summer and my arm was half out the window. Took a whole hot second. I wish I had that picture
00:00 📷 Fear of confrontation is a major concern for street photographers, but it's often unfounded. Tip 1 (Use longer focal lengths) 0:50 🎥 Longer focal lengths like 85mm (full-frame) or 56mm (APS-C) can create distance and reduce the need to get close to subjects. Advantages of These Lenses 2:19 🌆 Longer lenses provide a narrower field of view, helping beginners capture cleaner frames with less distraction. Bonus Lens/Invisibility Cloak 3:43 🕵♂ A compact 250mm lens offers stealth benefits, keeping subjects unaware and enabling intimate shots from a distance. Tip 2 (Use the camera screen) 4:13 📱 Framing shots using the back screen instead of the viewfinder can reduce attention and make shooting less conspicuous. Don't Worry About This 5:28 🕵♂ Shooting from waist level can make your approach less intrusive and yield more compelling street photography. Tip 3 (Trigger with thumb) 6:17 📸 Using your thumb instead of your index finger to trigger the shutter can make your actions less conspicuous. Tip 4 (Avoid eye contact) 7:05 👀 After taking a photo, avoid looking directly at your subject to reduce the chance of confrontation. Tip 5 (Set up and wait) 8:32 🕒 Patience pays off: setting up in a good spot and waiting for the right subject can lead to captivating street photos. Tip 6 (Lonely figure style) 9:36 🚶♂ Capturing solitary figures in urban landscapes can minimize confrontation while creating striking compositions. Tip 7 (Handling confrontations) 11:09 🤝 If confronted about taking a photo, remain calm and explain your intentions; offering to delete the photo can defuse tension. The Story Behind the Thumbnail 13:15 📸 People are often more curious and willing to pose than confrontational when approached for street photography.
If someone asks "Did you take a photo of me?" and you did, don't reply "yes" or "no", instead pay them a compliment first and then mention the photo. Something like, "I saw you and immediately thought you have a great look, so I did take your photo" Then you might get "You should have asked first" to which you can reply, "When I've done that, people tend to pose and the photos are less natural looking. Would you like to see the pictures you're in, I can show you some of my other work too if you'd like? I'll delete the pictures of you if you don't like them." It's pretty hard for most people to remain angry and confrontational with someone who's complimenting them and telling them how awesome they are. Whatever you do, don't respond to their confrontation with escalation, chances are that they were just caught off guard or startled in some way and responding to that. In the end tho, If they're insistent, just delete their pics and go on about your day.
@@hervevazeilles3790 I’m well aware that many countries lack the freedom of expression we have here in the US. Hopefully you get the chance to visit one day.
@@lordclancharlie1325 You have privacy in private spaces. Public spaces are just that public. Maybe you don't recognize photography as a legitimate expression. In any case, there's no reasonable way to expect privacy in public spaces
About Tip 3: Some cameras (at least Fuji) have a mode that lets you use the touchscreen instead of the shutter button, so you tap on the screen and it takes a photo, that way, you dont even need to have any finger on the shutter release.
Tried this… 👍 good tip - it feels a little strange at first but I tend to switch between thumb shutter and screen shutter. It also has the advantage of tapping to focus too 🤙
Yes, just thought the same. Almost all micro four thirds cameras have touch screens and the ability to shoot by touching the screen, so it's easy to do really candid photos.
i’ve tried that, but the problem with it is it takes LOADS of photos you don’t want when you touch it accidentally. Which is only a problem in that you have to sort through them (and it uses up the battery) I guess you could switch that mode off when you weren’t shooting
In my home country Germany street photography is protected by law. The highest federal court put art above privacy. Nevertheless, if someone is obviously unhappy about being in my picture, I offer to delete it.
In the United States courts have ruled that street photography is legal because there is no expectation of privacy outdoors in public. It only becomes an issue when done within private establishments where photography can be prohibited unless permitted, also if an image of someone is being used for monetary gain without that person’s release they can sue for licensing and royalty purposes.
That surprises me: when I lived in Berlin I was always told it's illegal to take a photo of someone in a public place without their permission, even if the person is not the main subject. You almost never see street photographers there.
@@alexs.818 which is honestly a stupid fucking rule. some people need to stay under the radar for their safety or the safety of their loved ones. it's too easy to stalk people nowadays.
I can’t even tell you how many times I’d be shooting a scene, that included zero people, and been approached by someone wondering what I’m doing. Not even aiming the camera anywhere near them. This has been my experience literally, 75% of the time. It’s really given me a complex and created a certain amount of anger about it. Who the hell are these people that think they own the world? Btw, I’m a 69yr old grandma, so am unimposing in any way.
I feel like being unimposing makes people think they have authority over you. It was rare for me to be confronted before COVID lockdown. Now people are much more brash and skeptical. Keep on. It's cool to hear about other photographers and their challenges with where they are in life.
The 50mm is the perfect focal length for new and seasoned photographers. The geometry is perfect and a 50mm is easy for composition without any distortion. You can then move on to wider and more narrow. Buy a camera with a tilt-only monitor. You can use diversion methods, but when you do make eye contact, and they do not look bothered at all, just smile or give them a thumbs up. The is the professional engagement. Also be honest as to what you do -- I have cards as well. You can also look like a tourist taking random shots -- take an extra shot of something else. If you say you are a street photographer, and they look confused, the them it is similar to documentary works. Small town might be more challenging in that respect. Thanks for all the good tips for street photographers, and most of all have fun! - Loren Schwiderski, street photography
This is the way. If you posture like you’re trying to get a tourist photo of something else and keep (acting) like you’re shooting after they walk past they often think you were waiting for them to move. Small lens and silent shutter make this work even better.
Great tips. One of the things that I do is that I pretend I am taking pictures of the surrounding areas before or after I take their photo and I never make eye contact with them. Basically pretending to be a tourist or there for a particular purpose. It puts them at ease.
I've been confronted twice. One was in Rochester, NY in the "Neighborhood of the Arts". I had been taking pictures of the buildings around the area and was literally in an art gallery parking lot when the guy - who I was completely unaware of before this - approached me. There's a photography school maybe a block away. This was before cell phones were common, so seeing someone with a camera wasn't even that weird. The second time was in Manhattan... also taking pictures of buildings, when I was confronted twice by the same guy for pointing a camera in his general direction. Approximately a million people were taking pictures in the same spot at the time, but cell phones were common by then, so I guess the camera was weird? I ignored him, and he went about his business. Later I did not find any pictures that contained him. I've never been confronted in places where it's not super common for everyone to be taking pictures.
People do give strange looks when I Snap with my phone too. I think being captured in a static image is more disturbing than in a moving picture because it feels more personal. I've been using my Fuji XT at eye level for video recording and no one bats an eye lol.
Hi Mark! I am new to your channel and I just wanted to tell you that your videos are a breath of fresh air! I love your concise, clear explanation of camera knowledge and that I can actually hear your voice instead of annoying, loud music played in the back round which can be totally distracting no matter how low the volume is. Thank you and keep up the fabulous work!! 😊
My 90's highschool photography teacher had suggested shooting blind from the hip, so no view finder. We were using full manual film SLR with 50mm lenses.
Eye contact should be avoided like the plague. Once you make eye contact with someone looking to give you a piece of their mind, it does downhill fast.
I have filmed video for the past 1.5 years on the streets of Toronto. Only had one bad encounter on our subway system. Overall my method is to just keep moving with purpose and have a pleasant face. I also shoot a lot of slow motion so it actually helps in that I don’t have to stay in one spot too long. I can move fast and capture what I want and on playback it’s captured beautifully in slow motion. Just discovered your channel recently and love it. Great job. Cheers!
Hi Mark. You discuss sone interesting issues with this video. I feel the way people take pictures on the street is reflection of themselves, and subsequently, that can show in the images they take. Benign introverts compared to gregarious extroverts, a friendly demeanour against an unfriendly one, and people who can be inconspicuous verses those who cannot. I would say being yourself is the starting point and the technicals will find you through trial and error. Finally, you will be rewarded when you talk to people, unexpected conversations will take place that more often than not can lead onto amazing things. Enjoy the rest of your day and regards from London.
Great video as usual Mark! The only confrontations I've had over the last 30 something years have been with people clearly outside frame (in public places) asking if I have permission to take photos of people, and business owners that notice their restaurant or something is being photographed (again from a public location). Of course I'm not violating any laws, but rather someone is convinced it can't be allowed. A patio was in a recent photo I took from a public sidewalk and someone came out of the establishment to ensure I was only using the photos for personal reasons. Rather than start arguing the legality of it, I just said "yes" lol.
I haven't been out much in public doing any photography but when I do I might wear my Panavision T-Shirt and hopefully that will quell any photography disruptions.
I had a confrontation last week but it was with film camera so deleting it was not an option. I said I wasn't doing anything illegal and I'm sorry they felt that way. They are in a public location after all. What annoys me is if I took that same photo with my phone I could have used that anywhere in an instant. Uploaded and shared etc. But this one on film the person got upset. :(
These are PHENOMENAL tips! Thank you very much. I have been wanting to get into street photography for years but have just felt super intimidated and too socially anxious to do so. This is the video I have needed for a long time.
I've always wanted to do street photography but I've been scared. You calmed me down so well! You even answered some of my worries before they even occured. Thank you so much ❤
I use the EVF a lot in streetphotography, I like to frame my pictures that way. And yes you can definitely tell that people are aware if you do that, lots of people look directly into your lens, some anxious, some in their own thoughts, some smiling. I have noticed a lot less negative or anxious looks if I take a tripod with me, set it up at a nice scene and fish for people to walk through. People tend to ask you (in a positive way) what you are doing when they see that tripod and camera, so if you like social interaction this is a bonus. You can take pictures with a phone all day, nobody will look at you. Take pictures with a camera and lots of people will notice you.
I think with a tripod, you look a lot less suspicious. In a sense that youre not trying to hide your intentions. You are taking a photo and everybody knows that. If you're trying to be all stealthy that might be creepy for some people.
Nice video Mark! I found a while ago that the longer focal length lenses suit me better for street photography just for the reasons you list here. Specially if they are compact, even though they turn to be manual focus
This video was very helpful, especially using the thumb to click the camera! I've never stumbled upon that technique on any videos or reels, until now, and I'll definitely use that from now on. Thanks a lot, and you've got my subscription!
Great video man!! Ty so much for these awesome tips!! I’ve been doing street photography for about a year now and I’m glad that I was already doing some of the tips you recommended on this video lol. I’m 100% going to put these to practice!!📸🙌🏼
Good video thanks! Another tips for the "wait for people to comes'in strategy" is to put your camera on a small tripod or place in on a safe surface, then trigger the shutter from your phone. Nowaday, most cameras have a dedicated apps where you can remove view on the phone and control a few things.
I want to get into street photography but I’ve always felt pretty self conscious about it. Your great video has given me the confidence to try it! Your use of the mirror lens is cunning! I have a wide variety of focal lengths in my kit but I’m not sure which to try. I wonder if 135mm would be a good compromise?
It's funny, I never formally learned street photography but I find myself applying most of these tips naturally. Pressing the shutter with my thumb is new to me though, I'll be trying it out, thanks!
These tips are golden. For me, I use a vertical battery grip, and when shooting in landscape, I would actually the the shutter button ON THE GRIP. This helps a lot.
Great advice, thanks so much, had a bit of a bad experience recently when out shooting street and Im a beginner so I was pretty flustered. Going to try these tips, have a great day.
11:40 My canned response is “Photography is not a crime. There is no expectation of privacy in public.”
4 месяца назад+1
About Tip 7: I quite often get into this trouble when taking photos. But in most cases two things happen: 1. when they confront me asking about photos I took, I show them the photos and telling either I can delete, or send them in email. Glad to say never needed to delete any photo to this day. 2. When I take a photo of a person, I immidiately take a photo in a higher or lower angle or zoomed, so when they approach me I'd say I was taking photo of that tree, building, etc. behind them so if they have doubts I can show the last photo for proof (rarely happens they want to see the previous photo where they are visible, in that case I use #1 and offer them deletion or sending).
In my local experience, the folks in my college town seem mostly receptive of my Fujifilm camera because it is black and silver like a "real camera." Image matters, I suppose. That, and I have learned to shoot from the hip, literally, when I am using a manual lens; no aiming, just guessing and sometimes being surprised by a good image.
When shooting I become a fly on a wall. On my Nikon D5, I have Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8 AF-S and on my Nikon D4s, I use a Nikkor 80-200mm /2.8 AF-S. I find this combo works well.
Lots of street photography was done with a TLR, which automatically gives the waist-level viewpoint. I long ago discovered the knack of getting down lower to find a more interesting perspective, sometimes flat on the ground.
What I miss from old cameras is the silent shutter sound. It boggles my mind how modern manufacturers aren't able to make a quieter shutter (without it being electronic, bc all of its negative aspects).
@@TheDavveponken I don`t notice. I have a XF10 and the shutter is normal-instant like any other camera, just way quieter. In this camera the mechanical shutter speed goes to 1/4000, after that you can use electronic one. But ether way, never notice any lag with it, if there is any it only happens due to the focus system not the shutter, that`s for sure.
I’m not afraid of somebody taking my photo in public. I’m afraid of somebody taking my photo and it’s horrifically bad of me and it becomes a popular photo for artistic or other viral reasons.😅😅
Some great advice... thanks for sharing Moving to micro 4/3, one of my first purchases was a 42.5mm f1.7 prime. My go-to lense in my 35mm days was a fast 90mm.
Tip #4 is huge for me, I use it all the time: Take a pic of someone and just look past them at something else, I also sometimes even take a pic of something, anything else that I'm pretend looking at (this depends on the energy I get from the person looking at me that I just took a photo of), sometimes I'll also even say "sorry" or "excuse me" as I take a pic of something next to them
I truly appreciate your content. I just started street photography (Maybe a couple months?) and it has vastly made my life better. I use shooting from the hip and the thumb trick quite a bit. Only had one unfriendly conversation but I think they were just having a bad day and I happen to be who they took it out on.
The Fujifilm Xapp is soooo practical and helps a lot to avoid any confrontation. I link my camera to my phone, via bluetooth/wifi, and use my phone as a viewfinder thru Xapp, pointing discretely the camera, waist level, towards my subject and shoot. In doing so, people see I carry my camera, but they see me looking at my phone, me pretending I am scrolling or checking my mails or something like that.
Thanks for an excellent and informative piece, Mark. You identified so many of the possibilities I've encountered, whether happy/positive or angry/aggressive (fortunately, the former have predominated). In retrospect, many of your tips are so logical, but being creatures of habit - especially those with long history of film shooting - we tend not to think of these. Also, great advice in dealing with those who might be confrontational, as well as the idea of not making eye contact after the shot! Loved the shots you used to illustrate your points.
I don't do street photography per se but when I go out with my girlfriend or friends and family I do see people tend to dodge out of the way cause they think they are in frame. I use a 35-150 most of the time and as you know as you zoom in your field of view becomes so small they are light years away haha. I think people see a big lens and just assuming you are capturing everything. In reality shorter lens are wider yet people don't care as much. I don't get many looks with my 20-40 (though it's still new to me) even though everyone's in the shot at 20mm vs 100mm haha
I have an R5 and some high-end RF lenses, but if in doubt I also have the option of using my old 5Diii with a heavy old, but cheap and very high-performing, EF 28-80mm f2.8-4 L lens (of which I have 3 copies).
Thank you for not having a gatekeeping or snob-ish view on things like you see some creators have. Example, they will ridicule the idea of a telephot lens on the streets, saying that you must be "in the action, to be a "real" street photographer, but you will see them using stealthy hip techniques with zone focusing. Like, what is the difference then? There should be no rules when it comes to gear.
For the Fujifilm system I would recommend the XF50mm f2. It’s a very tiny (weather sealed) lens, just a bit longer than the XF23mm f2 and I don’t mind the 6mm difference to the XF56mm by Fujifilm.
Try cradling your camera in your left hand and using your thumb to hit the shutter button... Most of the time just not holding the camera like you're holding a camera will let you get away with quite a bit. Also, get a variable ND filter and walk into the shadows to set your focal range, shutter speed, ISO, and aperture and put a mark on your filter, now step into the light and adjust your ND filter until your exposure is correct and make a second mark.. now all you have to do is adjust your ND filter from mark to mark as you walk in and out of shadows and greatly cut down on the time looking down to adjust your settings.
I had this odd confrontation a few weeks back where I was practicing taking photos of cars passing by a street. At one point a car pulled right up to the shoulder where I was, and the man with (I assume) his wife asked me if I took a picture of his car. I told him yes, I was practicing taking photos of cars, would you like me to delete yours? And his response was, "No. I stopped because what you're doing is just weird." And he drove off. That was my first ever confrontation, and it probably won't be my last, but I'm glad that what I did was similar to your advice.
I’m a very socially inept person taking a photojournalism class (great life choices ik) so this video’s really gonna come in handy once I have to do my own street photography
I can recommend the Fuji 60mm f2.4 lens, with prefocus or hyperdistance focusing. Also using a Fuji X100 range of cameras, but the must inconspicuous street camera IMHO is a late model smart phone! Tip if you are forced to delete a picture, you can usually undelete it as long as you stop taking more photos after the deletion!
I just got into shooting street and this has been my main concern for years which held me back. My first couple sessions were with a 58mm and it didn't go so bad, I had been already doing some tips from the video. I got super lucky and found a mint copy of the Minolta RF Rokkor-X 250mm f5.6 for cheap when compared to ebay. Can't wait to try this "invisibility cloak" out!
Something that modern photographers don't understand is the concept of "range focusing" (you touched on it a bit). This is what one of the greatest street photographers of all time did (HC-B). He shot with a Leica hanging from his neck, set at the aperture he wanted. He knew the range of focus that aperture provided within the confines of film and shutter speed, and he maneuvered himself into that space to take the photo. He rarely had the camera at his eye. Modern lenses no longer have the range scale on them... sad. Your Tip #6 reminds me of one of my favorite images of all time by Fan Ho. Enjoyed the presentation a lot, but perhaps a history lesson would help too.
I started with my 24-70mm lens because that was the only lens I had at the time with the 24-50mm range. A couple of years ago I bought a 40mm lens. I love that lens. This past Christmas I bought a 28mm lens. I mainly use it now. The 40mm is a great compromise between the 35mm and 50mm. But the 28mm let's me get closer to people and still get their surroundings. There's more context in the photos. And I use a zone focus. I point the camera a few feet in front of me and focus. I usually shoot between f/5.6 and f/8. That gives me enough depth of field that I don't even have to focus on anyone. I don't look in the EVF or on the back of the camera. I'm getting pretty good at just pointing the camera where I need to. Sometimes the person will be at the edge of the frame and I miss a good shot but most of the time I get it. I just turn the camera for the orientation I want. I've tried the thumb method but sometimes I don't press the button all the way in and i don't get a shot. I keep it on silent mode so I can't hear if it took a photo. But using a zone focus with a large depth of field allows me to be ready for the shot when it presents itself.
All very sensible advice. I don't do much street photography, but when I do I take a small Oly EPL 9, take pics at belly level looking at the screen and never lift my head just after the pic has been taken. People come and go and they leave me do my business. I think I attract more attention when I am wih my mobile.
Hi Mark I want to shoot candid portraits on the street in India and I own a 24-70mm & 70-200mm both F/2.8. I will put this on a Nikon Z7 (Full frame camera) My question is which Lense should i use for street portrait ??
Great story about the thumbnail. I haven't seen your videos before, and street is pretty far from my photographic genre, but I thought it was a really good presentation adn great tips. Subscribed!
Some great tips, love some of the shots of iconic locations in Melbourne too. Another tip is people are more forgiving of people taking photos in tourist hotspots - they think you are just another tourist 😊
Great video, excellent tips Mark. I have not done much street photography recently. Back in the film days (80's and 90's) I did a lot more street photography and hardly had any negative encounters. Ricoh USA had a try the GRIII day in Vegas a few months ago. I signed and attended. I borrowed the GRIIIX with a 40mm FF equivalent lens. We were in downtown in one of the business places in the city. I shot for two hours and hardly anyone bothered me. I think the GRIII(X) is made for this type of photography. I would be hesitant to take my Sony FF with any lens out there unless it is a pancake or as you pointed out a telephoto to create some separation. I have used my iPhone on a number of occasions and that is perhaps the best option because everyone uses their phones for photos and no cares when you take a pic of them.
Unlike the case with, say, landscape photography, psychology is as essential a factor in street photography as any other in the genre. Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions.
I was a photojournalist for 30 years, never had a single person confront me. Honestly! And I used through-the-lens focusing. I didn't wear goofy photo vests, but I had big chunky pro SLRs and always looked purposeful and professional. Sometimes, I even had to get model releases from the subjects! So, if I got what I thought was a good shot, I would simply walk up and talk to them, explain my assignment, and ask if it they wanted to be in print. People were generally flattered and seldom said no. People were less suspicious than today, tho.
Unless you use pancake lenses on a very small body (m system, some aps-c milc combos) or a compact integrated camera (GR, X100, Q, etc), it is much easier to frame a good shot using a "standard" zoom than any prime lens, and it will not make any difference whatsoever in perception from the people in the scene. Typical example, the 24-70 f/4 Nikon S. Staying in the Nikon Z world, even the 24-120 f/4 without its hood coulc pass the "obnoxious test" (similar footprint to the 85 you recommend). I know street purists frown on zooms because, well, HCB or Doisneau did not use zooms, but a standard zoom gives photographers all the options: getting close and wide when the mood and composition are there and instantly going short tele to single out individuals and tighten the scene. With habit you know by instinct what aperture to use at what distance with what focal length to secure desired depth of focus. I just focus somewhere mid-distance once (BBF once and then lift thumb ) at f/8 for wide angle immersion or use AF-C tracking when I tighten the scene. Using primes just uselessly limits options in a discipline where scenes and composition opportunities change all the time.
In pictures where I am photographing a crowd scene, I find more often than not that there is at least one person looking directly at the camera. I didn't see them at the time I took the picture but they appear when I see the photograph later, bearing silent witness to me taking the shot.
I learned some new things in this video that I would take into consideration but some things I have learned along the way and this is an important one is at best try and wear clothing that doesn't make you stand out and I know that sounds obvious but the days I have gone out taking photos wearing wacky shirts or shorts I have had more people look at me when taking photos but then the table is flipped when I wear more minimal clothing, I'm saying to dress in all black or to wear a nice polo but to read the room or the street before you even go outside. The best idea would go out with what you usually wear to a location and do some recon and then come back with the camera, since I have done this I've had fewer people give that weird look.
I mostly use manual lenses, most of them, vintage. I see no fun of doing street photography with af lenses. My favorite is the brightin Star 35mm on the zf
A couple of weeks ago, I found a neat composition with graffiti on a boxed-over power meter using my fisheye lens. I was headed back to work with that lens still on the body, and almost took a picture of an interesting lady on a mobility scooter, but held off because it would have been a bad shot. She confronted me, so I said: no, but do you want me to? I assume the scooter was stolen, because I didn’t know those scooters had that high a gear….
I actually enjoy going out for some street photography with my Nikon D800 + Tamron 70-200mm G2. I don't mind people looking since most times I'm still further away from my subject and overall having such a big setup also gives a message that I'm probably doing some work or something, rather than looking like a stalker
@@markwiemels Looking forward to it! I've become a big MFT fan since getting one last year. It's a great format for daily driving due to the size and light weight.
The most effective technique I've done is using the Garry Winogrand technique where you pretend to fiddle around the camera making it look like you're an absolute newbie to photography. Quite inconspicuous and I am able to get close with a classic 35mm lens.
Hi, one of my firsts attempts few days ago: I shot at a nice car crossing a park from about 20 meters (with a 24mm in apsc), I looked at the driver in the eyes after leaving the view finder. Then I runned to reach my relative (we were taking a walk I was left behind). After 30 seconds I heard someone screaming "HEY YOU, HEY YOU, HEY YOU!!!". I immediately erased the photo. I didn't turned my head, my relative didn't heard him. I was totally scared. I'll your suggestions thx for your video. ❤
I KNEW IT!!! I actually use a Nikon 135mm Plena for street photography and at one point I was even using the Z85mm f1.2 and NOBODY saw me. Ever. I got some of the best shots ever with those two lenses. One day someone came right up to my brother who is never in the greatest of moods, and took his photo and my brother was like ‘first time anyone ever wanted to do a photo shoot of me!’ And he even asked the guy with the camera if he wanted to take more photos.
I've been shooting street for years and have only had one confrontation and that person was clearly unstable and most likely on drugs... The looking past the subject tip works like a charm--often has them apologizing for being in your frame!
What drugs
I had a street photographer take a pic of me once. It was a cool experience. I was a cop for a long time, (retired now), and one time I was jumping on the freeway in my patrol car and cleared my blind spot left. When I did I saw the passenger in a car next to me with a camera. He looked at me and motioned like he was asking permission to take my picture. I nodded yes and gave him a thumbs up. He snapped a couple right before I jumped off the freeway. It was easy because it was summer and my arm was half out the window. Took a whole hot second. I wish I had that picture
💓
00:00 📷 Fear of confrontation is a major concern for street photographers, but it's often unfounded.
Tip 1 (Use longer focal lengths)
0:50 🎥 Longer focal lengths like 85mm (full-frame) or 56mm (APS-C) can create distance and reduce the need to get close to subjects.
Advantages of These Lenses
2:19 🌆 Longer lenses provide a narrower field of view, helping beginners capture cleaner frames with less distraction.
Bonus Lens/Invisibility Cloak
3:43 🕵♂ A compact 250mm lens offers stealth benefits, keeping subjects unaware and enabling intimate shots from a distance.
Tip 2 (Use the camera screen)
4:13 📱 Framing shots using the back screen instead of the viewfinder can reduce attention and make shooting less conspicuous.
Don't Worry About This
5:28 🕵♂ Shooting from waist level can make your approach less intrusive and yield more compelling street photography.
Tip 3 (Trigger with thumb)
6:17 📸 Using your thumb instead of your index finger to trigger the shutter can make your actions less conspicuous.
Tip 4 (Avoid eye contact)
7:05 👀 After taking a photo, avoid looking directly at your subject to reduce the chance of confrontation.
Tip 5 (Set up and wait)
8:32 🕒 Patience pays off: setting up in a good spot and waiting for the right subject can lead to captivating street photos.
Tip 6 (Lonely figure style)
9:36 🚶♂ Capturing solitary figures in urban landscapes can minimize confrontation while creating striking compositions.
Tip 7 (Handling confrontations)
11:09 🤝 If confronted about taking a photo, remain calm and explain your intentions; offering to delete the photo can defuse tension.
The Story Behind the Thumbnail
13:15 📸 People are often more curious and willing to pose than confrontational when approached for street photography.
If someone asks "Did you take a photo of me?" and you did, don't reply "yes" or "no", instead pay them a compliment first and then mention the photo. Something like, "I saw you and immediately thought you have a great look, so I did take your photo" Then you might get "You should have asked first" to which you can reply, "When I've done that, people tend to pose and the photos are less natural looking. Would you like to see the pictures you're in, I can show you some of my other work too if you'd like? I'll delete the pictures of you if you don't like them." It's pretty hard for most people to remain angry and confrontational with someone who's complimenting them and telling them how awesome they are.
Whatever you do, don't respond to their confrontation with escalation, chances are that they were just caught off guard or startled in some way and responding to that. In the end tho, If they're insistent, just delete their pics and go on about your day.
This should be printed on a notice and put in the camera box.
@@hervevazeilles3790 I’m well aware that many countries lack the freedom of expression we have here in the US. Hopefully you get the chance to visit one day.
@@dans.7693 freedom of privacy is the prerequisite for freedom of expression
@@lordclancharlie1325 You have privacy in private spaces. Public spaces are just that public. Maybe you don't recognize photography as a legitimate expression. In any case, there's no reasonable way to expect privacy in public spaces
"pay them a compliment" -- no, just pay them to release copyright. Always have the paperwork ready 😁
About Tip 3: Some cameras (at least Fuji) have a mode that lets you use the touchscreen instead of the shutter button, so you tap on the screen and it takes a photo, that way, you dont even need to have any finger on the shutter release.
Tried this… 👍 good tip - it feels a little strange at first but I tend to switch between thumb shutter and screen shutter.
It also has the advantage of tapping to focus too 🤙
Yes, just thought the same. Almost all micro four thirds cameras have touch screens and the ability to shoot by touching the screen, so it's easy to do really candid photos.
Most people I feel don’t know even what the shutter release button does 🥴
i’ve tried that, but the problem with it is it takes LOADS of photos you don’t want when you touch it accidentally. Which is only a problem in that you have to sort through them (and it uses up the battery)
I guess you could switch that mode off when you weren’t shooting
In my home country Germany street photography is protected by law. The highest federal court put art above privacy. Nevertheless, if someone is obviously unhappy about being in my picture, I offer to delete it.
In the United States courts have ruled that street photography is legal because there is no expectation of privacy outdoors in public. It only becomes an issue when done within private establishments where photography can be prohibited unless permitted, also if an image of someone is being used for monetary gain without that person’s release they can sue for licensing and royalty purposes.
That surprises me: when I lived in Berlin I was always told it's illegal to take a photo of someone in a public place without their permission, even if the person is not the main subject. You almost never see street photographers there.
@@piero_75 Damn really? I live in Berlin and I'm trying to get started in street photography.
@@alexs.818 which is honestly a stupid fucking rule. some people need to stay under the radar for their safety or the safety of their loved ones. it's too easy to stalk people nowadays.
@@mike_b777street photography in Germany is a nightmare
I can’t even tell you how many times I’d be shooting a scene, that included zero people, and been approached by someone wondering what I’m doing. Not even aiming the camera anywhere near them. This has been my experience literally, 75% of the time. It’s really given me a complex and created a certain amount of anger about it. Who the hell are these people that think they own the world? Btw, I’m a 69yr old grandma, so am unimposing in any way.
I feel like being unimposing makes people think they have authority over you. It was rare for me to be confronted before COVID lockdown. Now people are much more brash and skeptical.
Keep on. It's cool to hear about other photographers and their challenges with where they are in life.
Tell them you are a Soviet spy and they'll think you are crazy and leave you alone. 🤣
Fuck them; stand your ground, if you show weakness they will pounce on you; I’m a man but 5’3”.
I'd ask you too what you doing. A lady that old would be of some interest about her interest from a creative perspective.
The 50mm is the perfect focal length for new and seasoned photographers. The geometry is perfect and a 50mm is easy for composition without any distortion. You can then move on to wider and more narrow. Buy a camera with a tilt-only monitor. You can use diversion methods, but when you do make eye contact, and they do not look bothered at all, just smile or give them a thumbs up. The is the professional engagement. Also be honest as to what you do -- I have cards as well. You can also look like a tourist taking random shots -- take an extra shot of something else. If you say you are a street photographer, and they look confused, the them it is similar to documentary works. Small town might be more challenging in that respect. Thanks for all the good tips for street photographers, and most of all have fun! - Loren Schwiderski, street photography
Learning magic tricks prepared me for street photography: misdirection, deception, and timing.
This is the way. If you posture like you’re trying to get a tourist photo of something else and keep (acting) like you’re shooting after they walk past they often think you were waiting for them to move.
Small lens and silent shutter make this work even better.
Great tips. One of the things that I do is that I pretend I am taking pictures of the surrounding areas before or after I take their photo and I never make eye contact with them. Basically pretending to be a tourist or there for a particular purpose. It puts them at ease.
Until they see their photo in a photo book lol😅
For street photography, I've found the ttartisan 27mm pancake lens to be the best lens by far
Yes, I love that one as well.
I've been confronted twice. One was in Rochester, NY in the "Neighborhood of the Arts". I had been taking pictures of the buildings around the area and was literally in an art gallery parking lot when the guy - who I was completely unaware of before this - approached me. There's a photography school maybe a block away. This was before cell phones were common, so seeing someone with a camera wasn't even that weird.
The second time was in Manhattan... also taking pictures of buildings, when I was confronted twice by the same guy for pointing a camera in his general direction. Approximately a million people were taking pictures in the same spot at the time, but cell phones were common by then, so I guess the camera was weird? I ignored him, and he went about his business. Later I did not find any pictures that contained him.
I've never been confronted in places where it's not super common for everyone to be taking pictures.
It is truly crazy how no one bats an eye at an iPhone recording/taking photos, but an actual camera draws soooo much attention.
Well, should you take along a telephone with a long cord, they would notice that as well.
People do give strange looks when I Snap with my phone too. I think being captured in a static image is more disturbing than in a moving picture because it feels more personal.
I've been using my Fuji XT at eye level for video recording and no one bats an eye lol.
Thanks! Appreciate the in depth detailed tips with rationale behind them
Thank you.
Hi Mark! I am new to your channel and I just wanted to tell you that your videos are a breath of fresh air! I love your concise, clear explanation of camera knowledge and that I can actually hear your voice instead of annoying, loud music played in the back round which can be totally distracting no matter how low the volume is. Thank you and keep up the fabulous work!! 😊
My 90's highschool photography teacher had suggested shooting blind from the hip, so no view finder. We were using full manual film SLR with 50mm lenses.
Eye contact should be avoided like the plague. Once you make eye contact with someone looking to give you a piece of their mind, it does downhill fast.
don't show them a tongue or treat them with a finger and you'll be fine
I have filmed video for the past 1.5 years on the streets of Toronto. Only had one bad encounter on our subway system. Overall my method is to just keep moving with purpose and have a pleasant face. I also shoot a lot of slow motion so it actually helps in that I don’t have to stay in one spot too long. I can move fast and capture what I want and on playback it’s captured beautifully in slow motion. Just discovered your channel recently and love it. Great job. Cheers!
Hi Mark. You discuss sone interesting issues with this video. I feel the way people take pictures on the street is reflection of themselves, and subsequently, that can show in the images they take. Benign introverts compared to gregarious extroverts, a friendly demeanour against an unfriendly one, and people who can be inconspicuous verses those who cannot. I would say being yourself is the starting point and the technicals will find you through trial and error. Finally, you will be rewarded when you talk to people, unexpected conversations will take place that more often than not can lead onto amazing things. Enjoy the rest of your day and regards from London.
Great video as usual Mark! The only confrontations I've had over the last 30 something years have been with people clearly outside frame (in public places) asking if I have permission to take photos of people, and business owners that notice their restaurant or something is being photographed (again from a public location). Of course I'm not violating any laws, but rather someone is convinced it can't be allowed. A patio was in a recent photo I took from a public sidewalk and someone came out of the establishment to ensure I was only using the photos for personal reasons. Rather than start arguing the legality of it, I just said "yes" lol.
I haven't been out much in public doing any photography but when I do I might wear my Panavision T-Shirt and hopefully that will quell any photography disruptions.
I had a confrontation last week but it was with film camera so deleting it was not an option.
I said I wasn't doing anything illegal and I'm sorry they felt that way. They are in a public location after all.
What annoys me is if I took that same photo with my phone I could have used that anywhere in an instant. Uploaded and shared etc. But this one on film the person got upset.
:(
These are PHENOMENAL tips! Thank you very much. I have been wanting to get into street photography for years but have just felt super intimidated and too socially anxious to do so. This is the video I have needed for a long time.
I've always wanted to do street photography but I've been scared. You calmed me down so well! You even answered some of my worries before they even occured. Thank you so much ❤
Thanks for this video. There are some really interesting tips. I never thought about using my thumb.
I use the EVF a lot in streetphotography, I like to frame my pictures that way. And yes you can definitely tell that people are aware if you do that, lots of people look directly into your lens, some anxious, some in their own thoughts, some smiling. I have noticed a lot less negative or anxious looks if I take a tripod with me, set it up at a nice scene and fish for people to walk through. People tend to ask you (in a positive way) what you are doing when they see that tripod and camera, so if you like social interaction this is a bonus.
You can take pictures with a phone all day, nobody will look at you. Take pictures with a camera and lots of people will notice you.
I think with a tripod, you look a lot less suspicious. In a sense that youre not trying to hide your intentions. You are taking a photo and everybody knows that. If you're trying to be all stealthy that might be creepy for some people.
Nice video Mark! I found a while ago that the longer focal length lenses suit me better for street photography just for the reasons you list here. Specially if they are compact, even though they turn to be manual focus
This video was very helpful, especially using the thumb to click the camera! I've never stumbled upon that technique on any videos or reels, until now, and I'll definitely use that from now on. Thanks a lot, and you've got my subscription!
Great video man!! Ty so much for these awesome tips!! I’ve been doing street photography for about a year now and I’m glad that I was already doing some of the tips you recommended on this video lol. I’m 100% going to put these to practice!!📸🙌🏼
Great video Mark! The thumbnail is great! What a way to not only document stories, but to live then while doing photography.
So useful - thank you. I have been put off street photography but I'm going to give it a go with your advice and tips given.
Great video I want to start street photography but I was nervous and didn’t know where to start
Good video thanks! Another tips for the "wait for people to comes'in strategy" is to put your camera on a small tripod or place in on a safe surface, then trigger the shutter from your phone. Nowaday, most cameras have a dedicated apps where you can remove view on the phone and control a few things.
I want to get into street photography but I’ve always felt pretty self conscious about it. Your great video has given me the confidence to try it! Your use of the mirror lens is cunning! I have a wide variety of focal lengths in my kit but I’m not sure which to try. I wonder if 135mm would be a good compromise?
It's funny, I never formally learned street photography but I find myself applying most of these tips naturally. Pressing the shutter with my thumb is new to me though, I'll be trying it out, thanks!
These tips are golden. For me, I use a vertical battery grip, and when shooting in landscape, I would actually the the shutter button ON THE GRIP. This helps a lot.
Great advice, thanks so much, had a bit of a bad experience recently when out shooting street and Im a beginner so I was pretty flustered. Going to try these tips, have a great day.
11:40 My canned response is “Photography is not a crime. There is no expectation of privacy in public.”
About Tip 7: I quite often get into this trouble when taking photos. But in most cases two things happen: 1. when they confront me asking about photos I took, I show them the photos and telling either I can delete, or send them in email. Glad to say never needed to delete any photo to this day. 2. When I take a photo of a person, I immidiately take a photo in a higher or lower angle or zoomed, so when they approach me I'd say I was taking photo of that tree, building, etc. behind them so if they have doubts I can show the last photo for proof (rarely happens they want to see the previous photo where they are visible, in that case I use #1 and offer them deletion or sending).
In my local experience, the folks in my college town seem mostly receptive of my Fujifilm camera because it is black and silver like a "real camera." Image matters, I suppose. That, and I have learned to shoot from the hip, literally, when I am using a manual lens; no aiming, just guessing and sometimes being surprised by a good image.
When shooting I become a fly on a wall. On my Nikon D5, I have Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8 AF-S and on my Nikon D4s, I use a Nikkor 80-200mm /2.8 AF-S. I find this combo works well.
Lots of street photography was done with a TLR, which automatically gives the waist-level viewpoint.
I long ago discovered the knack of getting down lower to find a more interesting perspective, sometimes flat on the ground.
What I miss from old cameras is the silent shutter sound. It boggles my mind how modern manufacturers aren't able to make a quieter shutter (without it being electronic, bc all of its negative aspects).
You could buy a camera without interchangeable lens system and leaf shutter. Like a xf10
@@marcgtsr don't they have significant shutter lag though?
@@TheDavveponken I don`t notice. I have a XF10 and the shutter is normal-instant like any other camera, just way quieter. In this camera the mechanical shutter speed goes to 1/4000, after that you can use electronic one. But ether way, never notice any lag with it, if there is any it only happens due to the focus system not the shutter, that`s for sure.
@@marcgtsr I see. Manual focus is alright? EVF? Is it good enough?
I’m not afraid of somebody taking my photo in public. I’m afraid of somebody taking my photo and it’s horrifically bad of me and it becomes a popular photo for artistic or other viral reasons.😅😅
Some great advice... thanks for sharing
Moving to micro 4/3, one of my first purchases was a 42.5mm f1.7 prime. My go-to lense in my 35mm days was a fast 90mm.
Tip #4 is huge for me, I use it all the time: Take a pic of someone and just look past them at something else, I also sometimes even take a pic of something, anything else that I'm pretend looking at (this depends on the energy I get from the person looking at me that I just took a photo of), sometimes I'll also even say "sorry" or "excuse me" as I take a pic of something next to them
I truly appreciate your content. I just started street photography (Maybe a couple months?) and it has vastly made my life better. I use shooting from the hip and the thumb trick quite a bit. Only had one unfriendly conversation but I think they were just having a bad day and I happen to be who they took it out on.
The Fujifilm Xapp is soooo practical and helps a lot to avoid any confrontation. I link my camera to my phone, via bluetooth/wifi, and use my phone as a viewfinder thru Xapp, pointing discretely the camera, waist level, towards my subject and shoot. In doing so, people see I carry my camera, but they see me looking at my phone, me pretending I am scrolling or checking my mails or something like that.
Thanks for an excellent and informative piece, Mark. You identified so many of the possibilities I've encountered, whether happy/positive or angry/aggressive (fortunately, the former have predominated). In retrospect, many of your tips are so logical, but being creatures of habit - especially those with long history of film shooting - we tend not to think of these. Also, great advice in dealing with those who might be confrontational, as well as the idea of not making eye contact after the shot! Loved the shots you used to illustrate your points.
I don't do street photography per se but when I go out with my girlfriend or friends and family I do see people tend to dodge out of the way cause they think they are in frame. I use a 35-150 most of the time and as you know as you zoom in your field of view becomes so small they are light years away haha. I think people see a big lens and just assuming you are capturing everything. In reality shorter lens are wider yet people don't care as much. I don't get many looks with my 20-40 (though it's still new to me) even though everyone's in the shot at 20mm vs 100mm haha
I have an R5 and some high-end RF lenses, but if in doubt I also have the option of using my old 5Diii with a heavy old, but cheap and very high-performing, EF 28-80mm f2.8-4 L lens (of which I have 3 copies).
Thank you for not having a gatekeeping or snob-ish view on things like you see some creators have. Example, they will ridicule the idea of a telephot lens on the streets, saying that you must be "in the action, to be a "real" street photographer, but you will see them using stealthy hip techniques with zone focusing. Like, what is the difference then? There should be no rules when it comes to gear.
For the Fujifilm system I would recommend the XF50mm f2.
It’s a very tiny (weather sealed) lens, just a bit longer than the XF23mm f2 and I don’t mind the 6mm difference to the XF56mm by Fujifilm.
Tip #4: totally do that all the time. Easy peasy. This was a great video. Thank you!
Try cradling your camera in your left hand and using your thumb to hit the shutter button... Most of the time just not holding the camera like you're holding a camera will let you get away with quite a bit.
Also, get a variable ND filter and walk into the shadows to set your focal range, shutter speed, ISO, and aperture and put a mark on your filter, now step into the light and adjust your ND filter until your exposure is correct and make a second mark.. now all you have to do is adjust your ND filter from mark to mark as you walk in and out of shadows and greatly cut down on the time looking down to adjust your settings.
one more thing, if your camera has a silent electronic shutter you can Really get close without giving yourself away.
Amazing content i'm looking for Ideas for my own chanel and this was thought provoking
I had this odd confrontation a few weeks back where I was practicing taking photos of cars passing by a street.
At one point a car pulled right up to the shoulder where I was, and the man with (I assume) his wife asked me if I took a picture of his car. I told him yes, I was practicing taking photos of cars, would you like me to delete yours? And his response was, "No. I stopped because what you're doing is just weird." And he drove off.
That was my first ever confrontation, and it probably won't be my last, but I'm glad that what I did was similar to your advice.
I find it funny that he said that, because what he did is more weird than what you were doing. Sometimes people really don’t have any self awareness.
You're lucky you got that. I had a junkie threatening to bash my face in because he thought I took a shot of him.
I’m a very socially inept person taking a photojournalism class (great life choices ik) so this video’s really gonna come in handy once I have to do my own street photography
I can recommend the Fuji 60mm f2.4 lens, with prefocus or hyperdistance focusing. Also using a Fuji X100 range of cameras, but the must inconspicuous street camera IMHO is a late model smart phone! Tip if you are forced to delete a picture, you can usually undelete it as long as you stop taking more photos after the deletion!
I just got into shooting street and this has been my main concern for years which held me back. My first couple sessions were with a 58mm and it didn't go so bad, I had been already doing some tips from the video. I got super lucky and found a mint copy of the Minolta RF Rokkor-X 250mm f5.6 for cheap when compared to ebay. Can't wait to try this "invisibility cloak" out!
This was amazing content thank you for this
Something that modern photographers don't understand is the concept of "range focusing" (you touched on it a bit). This is what one of the greatest street photographers of all time did (HC-B). He shot with a Leica hanging from his neck, set at the aperture he wanted. He knew the range of focus that aperture provided within the confines of film and shutter speed, and he maneuvered himself into that space to take the photo. He rarely had the camera at his eye. Modern lenses no longer have the range scale on them... sad. Your Tip #6 reminds me of one of my favorite images of all time by Fan Ho. Enjoyed the presentation a lot, but perhaps a history lesson would help too.
Thanks Mark. Really helpful. Love your content!
Nice to see my home town in the video. It really is a great place for street photography.
I haven't had any confrontations but I'm always worry to have one. I think this are good tips to follow. Thank you for sharing.
So many great comments, excellent topic and good advices.
I started with my 24-70mm lens because that was the only lens I had at the time with the 24-50mm range. A couple of years ago I bought a 40mm lens. I love that lens. This past Christmas I bought a 28mm lens. I mainly use it now. The 40mm is a great compromise between the 35mm and 50mm. But the 28mm let's me get closer to people and still get their surroundings. There's more context in the photos. And I use a zone focus. I point the camera a few feet in front of me and focus. I usually shoot between f/5.6 and f/8. That gives me enough depth of field that I don't even have to focus on anyone. I don't look in the EVF or on the back of the camera. I'm getting pretty good at just pointing the camera where I need to. Sometimes the person will be at the edge of the frame and I miss a good shot but most of the time I get it. I just turn the camera for the orientation I want. I've tried the thumb method but sometimes I don't press the button all the way in and i don't get a shot. I keep it on silent mode so I can't hear if it took a photo. But using a zone focus with a large depth of field allows me to be ready for the shot when it presents itself.
All very sensible advice. I don't do much street photography, but when I do I take a small Oly EPL 9, take pics at belly level looking at the screen and never lift my head just after the pic has been taken. People come and go and they leave me do my business. I think I attract more attention when I am wih my mobile.
Hi Mark
I want to shoot candid portraits on the street in India and I own a 24-70mm & 70-200mm both F/2.8.
I will put this on a Nikon Z7 (Full frame camera)
My question is which Lense should i use for street portrait ??
Great story about the thumbnail. I haven't seen your videos before, and street is pretty far from my photographic genre, but I thought it was a really good presentation adn great tips. Subscribed!
Thanks!
Precious tips no one tells you. Awesome as usual, Mark.
I startet using a light shaft analog camera a few days ago. Ist awesome for street photography.
Great Tips and Video. Thanks so much for this.
Great practical tips thank you!!
I’d suggest the sigma 90mm f2.8 as a good 85mm-ish lens for street for E and L mount.
Some great tips, love some of the shots of iconic locations in Melbourne too. Another tip is people are more forgiving of people taking photos in tourist hotspots - they think you are just another tourist 😊
Great video, excellent tips Mark.
I have not done much street photography recently. Back in the film days (80's and 90's) I did a lot more street photography and hardly had any negative encounters.
Ricoh USA had a try the GRIII day in Vegas a few months ago. I signed and attended. I borrowed the GRIIIX with a 40mm FF equivalent lens. We were in downtown in one of the business places in the city. I shot for two hours and hardly anyone bothered me. I think the GRIII(X) is made for this type of photography. I would be hesitant to take my Sony FF with any lens out there unless it is a pancake or as you pointed out a telephoto to create some separation.
I have used my iPhone on a number of occasions and that is perhaps the best option because everyone uses their phones for photos and no cares when you take a pic of them.
I have a question how do street photographers make income ? Through what? For those that sold prints did u get a permit ?
An adapted 50mm on a Canon APS-C gives me an 80mm field of view and it is not too big. Also my small kit lens at set at 40-45mm works well.
Great advices ! Thank you.
Unlike the case with, say, landscape photography, psychology is as essential a factor in street photography as any other in the genre. Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions.
Panasonic Lumix G7 what would be a good lense for Street photography
I was a photojournalist for 30 years, never had a single person confront me. Honestly! And I used through-the-lens focusing. I didn't wear goofy photo vests, but I had big chunky pro SLRs and always looked purposeful and professional. Sometimes, I even had to get model releases from the subjects! So, if I got what I thought was a good shot, I would simply walk up and talk to them, explain my assignment, and ask if it they wanted to be in print. People were generally flattered and seldom said no. People were less suspicious than today, tho.
Unless you use pancake lenses on a very small body (m system, some aps-c milc combos) or a compact integrated camera (GR, X100, Q, etc), it is much easier to frame a good shot using a "standard" zoom than any prime lens, and it will not make any difference whatsoever in perception from the people in the scene. Typical example, the 24-70 f/4 Nikon S. Staying in the Nikon Z world, even the 24-120 f/4 without its hood coulc pass the "obnoxious test" (similar footprint to the 85 you recommend). I know street purists frown on zooms because, well, HCB or Doisneau did not use zooms, but a standard zoom gives photographers all the options: getting close and wide when the mood and composition are there and instantly going short tele to single out individuals and tighten the scene. With habit you know by instinct what aperture to use at what distance with what focal length to secure desired depth of focus. I just focus somewhere mid-distance once (BBF once and then lift thumb ) at f/8 for wide angle immersion or use AF-C tracking when I tighten the scene. Using primes just uselessly limits options in a discipline where scenes and composition opportunities change all the time.
In pictures where I am photographing a crowd scene, I find more often than not that there is at least one person looking directly at the camera. I didn't see them at the time I took the picture but they appear when I see the photograph later, bearing silent witness to me taking the shot.
Am confronted maybe one of every 2000 street shots. Usually when I offer to delete it, they say wait! Can I see it?
If you want a small lens with distance. Nikkor 135mm f2.8 AI vintage lens. Its pretty small adapted and its 135 and sharp.
Suddenly, the TTartisan 250mm became unavailable on Amazon.😞
Lots of them on Fleabay, for slightly lower prices. I’m trying to talk myself into it, but I’m still recovering my budget from that second M50 body….
I learned some new things in this video that I would take into consideration but some things I have learned along the way and this is an important one is at best try and wear clothing that doesn't make you stand out and I know that sounds obvious but the days I have gone out taking photos wearing wacky shirts or shorts I have had more people look at me when taking photos but then the table is flipped when I wear more minimal clothing, I'm saying to dress in all black or to wear a nice polo but to read the room or the street before you even go outside. The best idea would go out with what you usually wear to a location and do some recon and then come back with the camera, since I have done this I've had fewer people give that weird look.
just woo !straight to the point , very detail. thank you Mark
I mostly use manual lenses, most of them, vintage. I see no fun of doing street photography with af lenses. My favorite is the brightin Star 35mm on the zf
A couple of weeks ago, I found a neat composition with graffiti on a boxed-over power meter using my fisheye lens. I was headed back to work with that lens still on the body, and almost took a picture of an interesting lady on a mobility scooter, but held off because it would have been a bad shot. She confronted me, so I said: no, but do you want me to? I assume the scooter was stolen, because I didn’t know those scooters had that high a gear….
Two biggest tips I can give: try to keep a smile as you go along, and don't obstruct anyone going about their day
I actually enjoy going out for some street photography with my Nikon D800 + Tamron 70-200mm G2. I don't mind people looking since most times I'm still further away from my subject and overall having such a big setup also gives a message that I'm probably doing some work or something, rather than looking like a stalker
Excellent video. Thank you so much.
What about something like an 18-150….small and does it all. Available for m50 and r7.
Sure! I prefer prime (fixed) lenses, as it helps me to get in a grove with a single focal length, but you can use any lens really.
Pressing shutter with the thumb will be difficult with back button focusing.
How do you feel about MFT for street photography?
With the crop factor, a small lens goes a long way (pun intended).
I have some stuff coming up on those cameras, I think they are great.
@@markwiemels Looking forward to it!
I've become a big MFT fan since getting one last year. It's a great format for daily driving due to the size and light weight.
@@markwiemels really looking forward to this next MFT video
The most effective technique I've done is using the Garry Winogrand technique where you pretend to fiddle around the camera making it look like you're an absolute newbie to photography. Quite inconspicuous and I am able to get close with a classic 35mm lens.
Hi, one of my firsts attempts few days ago: I shot at a nice car crossing a park from about 20 meters (with a 24mm in apsc), I looked at the driver in the eyes after leaving the view finder. Then I runned to reach my relative (we were taking a walk I was left behind). After 30 seconds I heard someone screaming "HEY YOU, HEY YOU, HEY YOU!!!". I immediately erased the photo. I didn't turned my head, my relative didn't heard him. I was totally scared.
I'll your suggestions thx for your video. ❤
I KNEW IT!!! I actually use a Nikon 135mm Plena for street photography and at one point I was even using the Z85mm f1.2 and NOBODY saw me. Ever. I got some of the best shots ever with those two lenses. One day someone came right up to my brother who is never in the greatest of moods, and took his photo and my brother was like ‘first time anyone ever wanted to do a photo shoot of me!’ And he even asked the guy with the camera if he wanted to take more photos.