Actually, you have 4600Wrms total with all the amps playing at the same time. Your wall socket can provide 230V at 20A. P=U*I , 230x20=4600W. Energy cannot be created. Think about it.
Incorrect, its possible to get much more power out of such a wallsocket. the breaker will only trip if the amp asks that amount of power constantly, or atleast long enough, and a song, is dynamic, so the amp doesn't constantly ask it's full power. just think about the fact that breakers/wallsockets do not limit current. also, he has tripped his breaker in previous vids.
+Badass Killer the fuses still don't pop that quickly, only if you draw that much current for a prolongued time or have an actual short circuit it will blow/pop. but wallsockets can still provide more current than the fuses would "allow"
That's not the case with amplifiers !! My Class D Lab Gruppen FP10.000q can give me 10 KILO watt from a 16A/240 volt socket all day long. It works like this, the amp has an SMPS (Switch Mode Power Supply) that produce 150 volt at 38 ampere (peak) at each channel. And it has FOUR channels ! So basically with P=U*I = 150x38 = 5700 Watt per channel x4 = 22.800 Watt (peak) But the continues "normal" power is limited to 10 kW RMS divided into 4x 2500 watt @ 2 Ohm 4x 2100 Watt @ 4 Ohm and 4x 1300 Watt @ 8 Ohm. And all this power fits in a 2HE 19" unit that weighs only 12 kilo !!!! Best thing: it wipes the floor with those 30 kilo transformer amps that only produces harmonic distortion ! If you want real bass, get a Class D amp !!
this test is not really acurate, because the sub changes impedance based on frequency. and other stuff, it would have been more acurate if you used a resistor (fixed impedance), and a frequency generator playing a constant frequency
I'm from Indonesia, I'm happy to hear the reviews in this video, but I don't understand the multiplication of ohms, Ch A -Ch B, Watts... what is the ideal power perchanel Power CERWIN VEGA 2800 sir...? so that speakers and power stay healthy🙏🙏🙏
sir, this is not how you measure power. first you need a "TRUE RMS" meter to accurately measure non sinusoidal waveforms such as pink noise and music...even then music will not be accurate as its crest factor and constantly varying loudness will make it impossible. here is what you do, google sine wave generator" and go to a website that can generate sine waves. then hook your meter up to a speaker thats capable of handling the power from your amp in RMS...for the CV 2800 you are going to need about 6-8 18" pro woofers per side OR a resister thats capable of handling 3000+ watts (prefered). run a 60-200hz sine wave then increase volume till the amp clips....this reading is your "RMS" power....NOTE!: with a sine wave your peak wattage is DOUBLE your RMS wattage as a sine wave has a peak to average wattage of 3 DB or 2 to 1. Music has on average a peak to average power wattage of 10 to 1 !.. example: say you get a reading at clipping of 100 volts into a 4 ohm load....100X100= 10000.....10000 devided by 4=2500 watts RMS on this SINE wave....which means you are running a 2500 watt "average" 5000 watt "peak" power level. no way in hell are you getting 130+ volts into a 4 or 8 ohm speaker with that amp!. keep in mind: if you are running say a amp capable of 900 watts into 4 ohms as this cerwin vega is rated (per channel) and you are playing music when the amp is hitting 900 watts PEAK your "average" sustained wattage will be about 70-110 watts. again....a sine wave reaching 900 watts peak will be 450 watts RMS....music reaching 900 watts peak will be around 90 average. whats really importants is the sound level being generated.....lets say your speaker is generating 95 DB at 1 watt and you play music full power with a 900 watt amp......900 watts is 29.5DB above 1 watt and 90 watts is 19.5DB above 1 watt.....this combo will give you an average sound level of 114.5DB AVERAGE and 124.5DB peak. NOTE!: your ears and a DB meter set to C weighting and SLOW responce will measure "average levels...as average is what your ears interpet as loudness.
those are pretty sweet amplifiers, but I know that they aren't pushing 5000 Watts, one problem with how you did this is the volt amps thing another guy mentioned, that will not read accurate voltage on a varying ac signal, another was using the 4 ohm sub rating, that sub would only hit 4 ohms at very low subsonic or a DC signal, speakers have a varying impedance, and it goes much much higher ohms at different frequencies, and there's also a thing called box rise, when the woofer is in a box it drastically affects the ohm load of the sub, always results in ohm rise, to know the ohms at a specific frequency yound need a special frequency driven ohm tester, that shows the actual ohmload at certain frequencies, in reality the sub probably never goes below an 8 ohm load and will be up at 30+ ohms most of the time, the best SPL subs have more sections and stays at a lower ohm much longer as well, also, whatever your fuses or circuit breakers are rated for going to that outlet can tell you how much you can actually draw from the wall, I believe in Australia a standard plug is 10 amps leading me to believe 10 SMP circuits are the norm, meaning at 240 v, the most you could draw without blowing a fuse or tripping a breaker is 2400 watts, if it's a bigger breaker/ recepticle just multiply the amps by 240v then you'll see the most power that can be drawn( I believe circuit breakers need a bit of time under that wattage sustained to trip them, probably 5-10 seconds, and if I were you and you want to get a better idea of you true power output, for cheap get a couple new volt meters, on that has AC voltage of course, and on with an amp clamp, so you get a true amp rating, another option is looking up SMP products, he has a small handheld amp dyno, but it's much more costly, and there is also the big amp dyno that is rack mountable I believe, that uses resistors and has a multitude of different options available, look up the smd amp dyno on here, or mead916 channel, get something like one if thise and make a new video of the true output, ID like that, and please check out some of my videos too, they are low quality but I have a sweet sound system as well, not using as big of drivers or as many amps as you, but it's very sweet and hits super low
I think if you use a True RMS multimeter and a sinewave that you'll actually find that the Cerwin Vega CV2800 amplifiers output around 1,170'ish watts average power (which people call RMS) not the silly 4,600 'ish watts you came up with. The Cerwin Vega amplifiers don't have enough power capacitors to continuously generate their rated RMS power output, their power is burst not average continuous power so actually the amplifiers are overated with regards to their REAL continuous average power (RMS output).
A Crest CA18 can only put out 5,000 watts continuous average power and there's no way a Cerwin Vega amplifier which are actually made by Stanton, the cheap budget dj mixer company can put out more than a Crest CA18. Anyone who thinks so is athick c*nt. Read about RMS voltage, read about continuous average power which uneducated people like to call RMS power. RMS is a voltage term not a watts term, speaker manufacturers put RMS because it's short and people understand it better but it IS incorrect. Ask any professional sound engineer and they'll tell you, that's why QSC specs for their amplifiers state 'Continuous Average Power'. The figure you came up with was instantaneous peak not continuous RMS voltage.
I would like to have some common sense advise on a weird question. I bought a CV5000, thinking it would be as described in the specs 100-240V 50/60 Hz. I have equipment that can handle this difference in voltage without any problem, most modern equipment can. BUT, when I received my CV5000 it was rated 110V 60Hz(at the power connector). A bummer, because I live on an island with both 127V and 220V 50 Hz. Returning the amp would cost me more than the amp itself. Surfing the web I came across a similar case but in reverse, someone bought a CV5000 220V 50Hz in the US. On the box I can see different "markets" ? NA, EU, UK, etc...Could it be that the inside just remains 100-240V 50/60 Hz but depending on where it is sold they just put the voltage and cycles that corresponds with the "market"? Or do they have a special design and build for all the different areas? I don`t want to blow up the amp by hooking it up to 220V. What could be the easiest and safest way to find out if my assumption could be correct? Sorry for being off topic.
you cant buy a beringer NU6000 for 350dollar? and show us that spec. i had 2 of them but in my appartment i havent play more then to that first ligth litting
Think about trying with a TRMS voltmeter, audio signal is modulated DC after all. I don't trust those cheapy meters for measuring voltage unless it's clean DC.
ok im new to all this and im currently a little confused i just purchased a cerwin vega xls 12 and a behringer epq 2000 i hooked it all up hooked my phone directly to the input of the amp and it works its just not loud as i thought it would be i was reading about dac do i need a dac to amplify the sound for the amp?
there is a dual voice coil version of this sub that looks exactly the same. take the multimeter and show us the impedance of the actual sub you had it hooked to. Probably the dual 4 which means your running at 2ohms. also you need an rms multimeter. so those two things I think your wattage would be around what it is rated.
I just uploaded the review for the amp too! I do live near Melbourne but I'm sure my parents wouldn't allow it, sorry bud, but believe my word those amps are incredible, you would get even more power out of your subs if you had it running at four ohms, so if you do ever replace them, make sure your replacements are able to wire to four ohms!
If you want to measure AC volts with those crappy multimeters, it'll only correctly report the RMS voltage @ 50 or 60hz. They estimate the power assuming "mains" frequency. At any different frequency, it'll report some bs number. If you want a voltmeter that can truly measure AC voltage (commonly accurate at up to 1kHz), seek for a "True RMS" multimeter. Usually, they'll also feature a frequency counter, which may be useful. Or just play 50/60hz tones with your subs. That's really the only way to get a true reading. I own just the same meter and it gives some pretty funny readings.
Those 2800W amps share the same design as the Behringer Europower 2800, Stanton 2800, etc. As already explained you're omitting way too many variables calculating power. The amplifier cannot exceed its power supply limits. If your impedance is high your voltage will clip, low z will current clip. Any time the waveform tops get flat you're clipping. Typically these amps will do 575W at 8OHM, 1150W at 4OHM, and 1400W at 2OHM. PER CHANNEL. Bridging will get you 1200W at 8OHM and 2800W at 4OHM. 2OHM bridged will do bad as that's the equivalent of running the amp at 1OHM stereo mode. Woofer power handling is always thermally limited when loaded. 4" edgewound voice coils on aluminum formers can usually take 600W pink noise continuous. Sine waves will overheat them very quickly. Clipped sine wave is about as bad as putting DC into the motor! As far as the amp, take off the lid and look how it's made. Compare that to more typical SR brands like QSC and Crown. When you get into touring grade stuff that costs thousands of dollars per amp you will see much more robust build quality, output transistors and top quality capacitors. The CV amps are popular with DJs and budget gigs. Run them on an outdoor rave in the sun and you will lose your low end quickly! :P If you want to blow subs you don't need amps, you have 2+ kW available from the wall at 50/60Hz. And if you need more just tap the dryer or stove outlet! :D
Cerwin vega is one of the best amps an the market with price an power not saying it's pushing out more than 2800 but it rocks real hard I got my money worth
5000 Watts peak dude, its normal that the amp deliviers shortly WAY more power. My 4 Channel amp does 1600 Sinus and 4000 Watts peak per channel. Thats why you do not amp your speakers with the programm power when you want to have them for a longer time ;)
You would be right if speakers ran on DC but because they use AC your roughly calculating VA(Volt-amps) not Watts(Power). AC Power = (Power Factor) X Current X Voltage DAmoreEngineerings youtube has a great video on measuring amplifier power
I hope you know what you mesured is RMS and not peak. If you want to get the peak value, multiply the voltage with the square root of 2(~1.4142) or divide it by 0.707. When measuring AC the meter shows an effective value not a peak value :D
it's not even RMS, not even close his measurement is an ohms law measurement, he had a hit of 136v for a fraction of a second, he used ohms law at a 4 ogm load, which no speaker has a stable ogm load, they are by nature varying impedance, at a DC load it may be below or above 4ohm slightly but as soon as it's moving it's a completely different load, 8 and above free air, with an fs where the woofer moves more but with a spike in resistance that goes way up then drops down a bit and goes up again, and box rise can increase resistance drastically when not in the tuning if the box, the higher it goes in frequency is a quick high bass hit like what got him the voltage used, will have 20+ohms resistance, the way you get the actual power used, not a fairy take number, my amps using this method would get over 3600 watts, but using an amp clamp to read the amperage gets me up to 1500 watts, that's real power amperage multiplied by voltage used is power, if he wants real numbers he needs to run a sine wave test crank it up and amp clamp and read the voltage used at that level, the power level read will drop to 2500 or even less
11kw. DD. too much biger been 97v but if you want you cant find speaker spec diagram where Can find frequence againsist ohm but i take 4 ohm then 97/4*97 ITS about 1200w. of all System you have mybe 4kw rms, but anyway its so much
You need to take into account several factors. You need to be using a true RMS multimeter, that one is most likely giving you inaccurate figures. Additionally you need to calculate for box rise (How the impedance of the sub woofer fluctuates under changing internal air pressures. To accurately check RMS output, you need an oscilloscope, dummy load and a true RMS multimeter. Great video anyway, you legitimately have some good equipment.
Isn't it calculation for peak power, not RMS? I tried this calculation and it gives me 35W per channel (full volume, extreme clipping) on my cheap genius "40W" speakers, with just 35VA power transfomer. I have video on my channel.
+Doublsmm na thats wrong what you're saying, that multimeter you used is not a true RMS multimeter, it gives a Peak reading, you have to multiply it by 0.707 to get the real value, which is 96,152 volts, thats 2 volts lower than my Behringer iNuke NU3000 does when its not clipping, clipping doesn't make it Peak. you measured clean peak power. so it is 96,152v RMS clean, which means your amp is doing 2311w RMS clean, with one of those cheapo multimeters like you used my meter does read 138v on the Behringer iNuke NU3000 which only puts out around 98v on my true rms multimeter
RMS is a voltage term not a power ikn watts term, manufacturers have been putting 'RMS' for decades because it's easier for people to understand. The correct term is 'Continuous Average Power' not RMS.
dude your testing methodology is pretty bad since when the sub is moving, the impeadance doesnt stay the same, so it most likely rose there for you got that high number
BH4x0r yeah that's peak power i think. i measured one of the kenwoods and it did 200 watts on one channel at 40 hz. granted it was very distorted i bet but i'm impressed.
you can't use 4ohms in your calc. the impedance of the driver is many times higher than 4ohms at different frequencies
Actually, you have 4600Wrms total with all the amps playing at the same time. Your wall socket can provide 230V at 20A.
P=U*I , 230x20=4600W.
Energy cannot be created. Think about it.
define amplifier
Incorrect, its possible to get much more power out of such a wallsocket. the breaker will only trip if the amp asks that amount of power constantly, or atleast long enough, and a song, is dynamic, so the amp doesn't constantly ask it's full power.
just think about the fact that breakers/wallsockets do not limit current. also, he has tripped his breaker in previous vids.
+Badass Killer the fuses still don't pop that quickly, only if you draw that much current for a prolongued time or have an actual short circuit it will blow/pop. but wallsockets can still provide more current than the fuses would "allow"
That's not the case with amplifiers !!
My Class D Lab Gruppen FP10.000q can give me 10 KILO watt from a 16A/240 volt socket all day long.
It works like this, the amp has an SMPS (Switch Mode Power Supply) that produce 150 volt at 38 ampere (peak) at each channel. And it has FOUR channels !
So basically with P=U*I = 150x38 = 5700 Watt per channel x4 = 22.800 Watt (peak)
But the continues "normal" power is limited to 10 kW RMS divided into 4x 2500 watt @ 2 Ohm 4x 2100 Watt @ 4 Ohm and 4x 1300 Watt @ 8 Ohm.
And all this power fits in a 2HE 19" unit that weighs only 12 kilo !!!! Best thing: it wipes the floor with those 30 kilo transformer amps that only produces harmonic distortion ! If you want real bass, get a Class D amp !!
Transformers
this test is not really acurate, because the sub changes impedance based on frequency. and other stuff, it would have been more acurate if you used a resistor (fixed impedance), and a frequency generator playing a constant frequency
That is what i was gonna say, dynamic impedance
I mean on the specs it did say IMPEDANCE:4Ohms so it is more accurate than using the DCR
Which would be around 3.2
lol that woofer be smoking withing 15 seconds xD on 5000w constant tone
I'm from Indonesia, I'm happy to hear the reviews in this video, but I don't understand the multiplication of ohms, Ch A -Ch B, Watts... what is the ideal power perchanel Power CERWIN VEGA 2800 sir...? so that speakers and power stay healthy🙏🙏🙏
8:55 the amplifier clip
sir, this is not how you measure power. first you need a "TRUE RMS" meter to accurately measure non sinusoidal waveforms such as pink noise and music...even then music will not be accurate as its crest factor and constantly varying loudness will make it impossible. here is what you do, google sine wave generator" and go to a website that can generate sine waves. then hook your meter up to a speaker thats capable of handling the power from your amp in RMS...for the CV 2800 you are going to need about 6-8 18" pro woofers per side OR a resister thats capable of handling 3000+ watts (prefered). run a 60-200hz sine wave then increase volume till the amp clips....this reading is your "RMS" power....NOTE!: with a sine wave your peak wattage is DOUBLE your RMS wattage as a sine wave has a peak to average wattage of 3 DB or 2 to 1. Music has on average a peak to average power wattage of 10 to 1 !.. example: say you get a reading at clipping of 100 volts into a 4 ohm load....100X100= 10000.....10000 devided by 4=2500 watts RMS on this SINE wave....which means you are running a 2500 watt "average" 5000 watt "peak" power level. no way in hell are you getting 130+ volts into a 4 or 8 ohm speaker with that amp!. keep in mind: if you are running say a amp capable of 900 watts into 4 ohms as this cerwin vega is rated (per channel) and you are playing music when the amp is hitting 900 watts PEAK your "average" sustained wattage will be about 70-110 watts. again....a sine wave reaching 900 watts peak will be 450 watts RMS....music reaching 900 watts peak will be around 90 average. whats really importants is the sound level being generated.....lets say your speaker is generating 95 DB at 1 watt and you play music full power with a 900 watt amp......900 watts is 29.5DB above 1 watt and 90 watts is 19.5DB above 1 watt.....this combo will give you an average sound level of 114.5DB AVERAGE and 124.5DB peak. NOTE!: your ears and a DB meter set to C weighting and SLOW responce will measure "average levels...as average is what your ears interpet as loudness.
those are pretty sweet amplifiers, but I know that they aren't pushing 5000 Watts, one problem with how you did this is the volt amps thing another guy mentioned, that will not read accurate voltage on a varying ac signal, another was using the 4 ohm sub rating, that sub would only hit 4 ohms at very low subsonic or a DC signal, speakers have a varying impedance, and it goes much much higher ohms at different frequencies, and there's also a thing called box rise, when the woofer is in a box it drastically affects the ohm load of the sub, always results in ohm rise, to know the ohms at a specific frequency yound need a special frequency driven ohm tester, that shows the actual ohmload at certain frequencies, in reality the sub probably never goes below an 8 ohm load and will be up at 30+ ohms most of the time, the best SPL subs have more sections and stays at a lower ohm much longer as well, also, whatever your fuses or circuit breakers are rated for going to that outlet can tell you how much you can actually draw from the wall, I believe in Australia a standard plug is 10 amps leading me to believe 10 SMP circuits are the norm, meaning at 240 v, the most you could draw without blowing a fuse or tripping a breaker is 2400 watts, if it's a bigger breaker/ recepticle just multiply the amps by 240v then you'll see the most power that can be drawn( I believe circuit breakers need a bit of time under that wattage sustained to trip them, probably 5-10 seconds, and if I were you and you want to get a better idea of you true power output, for cheap get a couple new volt meters, on that has AC voltage of course, and on with an amp clamp, so you get a true amp rating, another option is looking up SMP products, he has a small handheld amp dyno, but it's much more costly, and there is also the big amp dyno that is rack mountable I believe, that uses resistors and has a multitude of different options available, look up the smd amp dyno on here, or mead916 channel, get something like one if thise and make a new video of the true output, ID like that, and please check out some of my videos too, they are low quality but I have a sweet sound system as well, not using as big of drivers or as many amps as you, but it's very sweet and hits super low
I think if you use a True RMS multimeter and a sinewave that you'll actually find that the Cerwin Vega CV2800 amplifiers output around 1,170'ish watts average power (which people call RMS) not the silly 4,600 'ish watts you came up with. The Cerwin Vega amplifiers don't have enough power capacitors to continuously generate their rated RMS power output, their power is burst not average continuous power so actually the amplifiers are overated with regards to their REAL continuous average power (RMS output).
What a bullshit!
Just a bullshit as the school you learned to speak english at.
A Crest CA18 can only put out 5,000 watts continuous average power and there's no way a Cerwin Vega amplifier which are actually made by Stanton, the cheap budget dj mixer company can put out more than a Crest CA18. Anyone who thinks so is athick c*nt. Read about RMS voltage, read about continuous average power which uneducated people like to call RMS power. RMS is a voltage term not a watts term, speaker manufacturers put RMS because it's short and people understand it better but it IS incorrect. Ask any professional sound engineer and they'll tell you, that's why QSC specs for their amplifiers state 'Continuous Average Power'. The figure you came up with was instantaneous peak not continuous RMS voltage.
You obviously don't knwo anything moron.
Yet another mroon who doesn't know anything you are DUH!!!
I would like to have some common sense advise on a weird question. I bought a CV5000, thinking it would be as described in the specs 100-240V 50/60 Hz. I have equipment that can handle this difference in voltage without any problem, most modern equipment can. BUT, when I received my CV5000 it was rated 110V 60Hz(at the power connector). A bummer, because I live on an island with both 127V and 220V 50 Hz. Returning the amp would cost me more than the amp itself. Surfing the web I came across a similar case but in reverse, someone bought a CV5000 220V 50Hz in the US. On the box I can see different "markets" ? NA, EU, UK, etc...Could it be that the inside just remains 100-240V 50/60 Hz but depending on where it is sold they just put the voltage and cycles that corresponds with the "market"? Or do they have a special design and build for all the different areas? I don`t want to blow up the amp by hooking it up to 220V. What could be the easiest and safest way to find out if my assumption could be correct? Sorry for being off topic.
I like you 4x18 bass cabinet !
you cant buy a beringer NU6000 for 350dollar? and show us that spec. i had 2 of them but in my appartment i havent play more then to that first ligth litting
Hey man, love your vids i wonder how you connected usb mixer board to the amplifier or something like that
Think about trying with a TRMS voltmeter, audio signal is modulated DC after all. I don't trust those cheapy meters for measuring voltage unless it's clean DC.
ok im new to all this and im currently a little confused i just purchased a cerwin vega xls 12 and a behringer epq 2000 i hooked it all up hooked my phone directly to the input of the amp and it works its just not loud as i thought it would be i was reading about dac do i need a dac to amplify the sound for the amp?
awesome home set up 😀
there is a dual voice coil version of this sub that looks exactly the same. take the multimeter and show us the impedance of the actual sub you had it hooked to. Probably the dual 4 which means your running at 2ohms. also you need an rms multimeter. so those two things I think your wattage would be around what it is rated.
I dont know about u guys but im pretty sure this deserves a like👍👍👍
How did you wire up the multimeter? i wanna try this with my amp. do I have to have a speaker/sub connected?
You could have used the multimeter to check the impedance.
You definitely have me hooked on this amp mate :P
BTW are you in the Melbourne area? would love to hear these amps in person running on your setup :P
I just uploaded the review for the amp too!
I do live near Melbourne but I'm sure my parents wouldn't allow it, sorry bud, but believe my word those amps are incredible, you would get even more power out of your subs if you had it running at four ohms, so if you do ever replace them, make sure your replacements are able to wire to four ohms!
+Doublsmm All good mate!
Thanks for your help too! Looking forward to more Vids!!
what is your opinion on a qsc plx 3602?
The subwoofer looks like a copy of some Klipsch subwoofers
Now I know why I blew sets of JBLs and Cerwin Vega's, i need upgrade to powerful cabinets.
If you want to measure AC volts with those crappy multimeters, it'll only correctly report the RMS voltage @ 50 or 60hz. They estimate the power assuming "mains" frequency. At any different frequency, it'll report some bs number.
If you want a voltmeter that can truly measure AC voltage (commonly accurate at up to 1kHz), seek for a "True RMS" multimeter. Usually, they'll also feature a frequency counter, which may be useful.
Or just play 50/60hz tones with your subs. That's really the only way to get a true reading. I own just the same meter and it gives some pretty funny readings.
Those 2800W amps share the same design as the Behringer Europower 2800, Stanton 2800, etc.
As already explained you're omitting way too many variables calculating power. The amplifier cannot exceed its power supply limits. If your impedance is high your voltage will clip, low z will current clip. Any time the waveform tops get flat you're clipping. Typically these amps will do 575W at 8OHM, 1150W at 4OHM, and 1400W at 2OHM. PER CHANNEL. Bridging will get you 1200W at 8OHM and 2800W at 4OHM. 2OHM bridged will do bad as that's the equivalent of running the amp at 1OHM stereo mode.
Woofer power handling is always thermally limited when loaded. 4" edgewound voice coils on aluminum formers can usually take 600W pink noise continuous. Sine waves will overheat them very quickly. Clipped sine wave is about as bad as putting DC into the motor!
As far as the amp, take off the lid and look how it's made.
Compare that to more typical SR brands like QSC and Crown.
When you get into touring grade stuff that costs thousands of dollars per amp you will see much more robust build quality, output transistors and top quality capacitors. The CV amps are popular with DJs and budget gigs. Run them on an outdoor rave in the sun and you will lose your low end quickly! :P
If you want to blow subs you don't need amps, you have 2+ kW available from the wall at 50/60Hz. And if you need more just tap the dryer or stove outlet! :D
Thought they looked similar to my Europower EP2800.
Cerwin vega is one of the best amps an the market with price an power not saying it's pushing out more than 2800 but it rocks real hard I got my money worth
The cv900 on Cerwin vega website they say it can’t get over 900 watts mono
5000 Watts peak dude, its normal that the amp deliviers shortly WAY more power.
My 4 Channel amp does 1600 Sinus and 4000 Watts peak per channel. Thats why you do not amp your speakers with the programm power when you want to have them for a longer time ;)
Hver do you by that amplifiler holder?
You would be right if speakers ran on DC but because they use AC your roughly calculating VA(Volt-amps) not Watts(Power).
AC Power = (Power Factor) X Current X Voltage
DAmoreEngineerings youtube has a great video on measuring amplifier power
Alright dude, I'll check it out when I get home and I'll do the video again if I can work it out!
Dont forget Impedance changes with frequency for example an 8 ohm (resistive)speaker could be as low as 0.5 all the way up to 50 ohm
unload output voltage minus loaded output voltage divided by impdance
Thanks for telling i might buy the one for sale for 200€
i miss these videos...😬
I hope you know what you mesured is RMS and not peak. If you want to get the peak value, multiply the voltage with the square root of 2(~1.4142) or divide it by 0.707. When measuring AC the meter shows an effective value not a peak value :D
peak is for pussies dont mean shit rms is what we want
it's not even RMS, not even close his measurement is an ohms law measurement, he had a hit of 136v for a fraction of a second, he used ohms law at a 4 ogm load, which no speaker has a stable ogm load, they are by nature varying impedance, at a DC load it may be below or above 4ohm slightly but as soon as it's moving it's a completely different load, 8 and above free air, with an fs where the woofer moves more but with a spike in resistance that goes way up then drops down a bit and goes up again, and box rise can increase resistance drastically when not in the tuning if the box, the higher it goes in frequency is a quick high bass hit like what got him the voltage used, will have 20+ohms resistance, the way you get the actual power used, not a fairy take number, my amps using this method would get over 3600 watts, but using an amp clamp to read the amperage gets me up to 1500 watts, that's real power amperage multiplied by voltage used is power, if he wants real numbers he needs to run a sine wave test crank it up and amp clamp and read the voltage used at that level, the power level read will drop to 2500 or even less
is that a klipsch box?
Make sure you have predation in sup or in amplifier
Zaid Habeeb Walmart
thanks
11kw. DD. too much biger been 97v but if you want you cant find speaker spec diagram where Can find frequence againsist ohm but i take 4 ohm then 97/4*97 ITS about 1200w. of all System you have mybe 4kw rms, but anyway its so much
I miss your dual 18s
You need to take into account several factors. You need to be using a true RMS multimeter, that one is most likely giving you inaccurate figures. Additionally you need to calculate for box rise (How the impedance of the sub woofer fluctuates under changing internal air pressures. To accurately check RMS output, you need an oscilloscope, dummy load and a true RMS multimeter. Great video anyway, you legitimately have some good equipment.
What about 8 ohm?
That's burst power
Isn't it calculation for peak power, not RMS? I tried this calculation and it gives me 35W per channel (full volume, extreme clipping) on my cheap genius "40W" speakers, with just 35VA power transfomer. I have video on my channel.
It is peak power of you run it right into clipping, in my case the amplifier was not clipping therefore the power is RMS not peak.
+Ondřej Doubravský you only got 1 video that is 29 seconds on your channel which is showing nothing but audio is some clicking sounds.
+Aaron bilger Sorry, my fault. Now it's available.
+Ondřej Doubravský thanks
+Doublsmm na thats wrong what you're saying, that multimeter you used is not a true RMS multimeter, it gives a Peak reading, you have to multiply it by 0.707 to get the real value, which is 96,152 volts, thats 2 volts lower than my Behringer iNuke NU3000 does when its not clipping, clipping doesn't make it Peak. you measured clean peak power. so it is 96,152v RMS clean, which means your amp is doing 2311w RMS clean, with one of those cheapo multimeters like you used my meter does read 138v on the Behringer iNuke NU3000 which only puts out around 98v on my true rms multimeter
But I may be wrong so you guys look it up and tell me
All that audio stuff and you think that cerwin vega did 4600 watts!! WOW
Test a cv 5000
that is 1100 $
they will do about 3K Watts
that's not sure
Watts work like this......100 rms = 200 program = 400 peak.
RMS is a voltage term not a power ikn watts term, manufacturers have been putting 'RMS' for decades because it's easier for people to understand. The correct term is 'Continuous Average Power' not RMS.
4630.8 "PEAK"
dude your testing methodology is pretty bad since when the sub is moving, the impeadance doesnt stay the same, so it most likely rose there for you got that high number
thats on my birthaday!
I have a BOSS car audio amp ill sell you for $1500 it says its 8000watts!
Talk about facepalm.🤦♂️
Get a sp15x6000WATt
Soothing wrong
Doublsmm try your uther amp
I need to do this with my Kenwoods and my True RMS multimeter.
+bushwood4568 yea he does not have a true rms multimeter
BH4x0r yeah that's peak power i think. i measured one of the kenwoods and it did 200 watts on one channel at 40 hz. granted it was very distorted i bet but i'm impressed.
+bushwood4568 it is actually around 2300-2400w, a bit less than the Behringer iNuke NU3000
+bushwood4568 i mean the cerwin in his vid
BH4x0r rms or peak? i'm going to go out on a limb and say the cerwin is more powerful than the behringer, but i don't know for sure