Everything is subjective and relative. Most wouldn’t consider a $150 set of speakers as cheap. They are cheaper than a $600 set but not “cheap”. One could say not to buy a $600 set of Focals cause they are cheap and low quality. Instead buy the $2,300 set cause they aren’t cheap crap. Well yes, and I’m sure they are both better sounding than a $30 set from Walmart. Really just listen to the set of speakers you wanna buy, and if you like them and their price, buy them.
you bet. My point with this video was to advice people who are enthusiast who aren't walmart Hi Fi shoppers to not buy cheap name brand speakers. For example I referenced CT sound 3 ways for $250, that were "nice". I also pointed out a set of used speakers of top quality I put together for under $100. So I gave options to viewers other than the "cheap" speakers. I also pointed out the the cheaper of the two was better. So If you take anything away from this video, don't buy Cheap JL C1 speakers! thanks for watching!
@@Hi-Fire-doyep, its recommended by many experts to generally avoid low tier speakers from higher end big box store speakers. You’re better off with a top-end line from a moderately priced brand. Or better yet, piece together like you did. And if you want even more bang for your buck, go with something like Peerless 1” silk dome tweeters ($25/pair) combined with Faital mid and/or mid-bass drivers for excellent clarity, zero harshness & good sensitivity with less power supplied With DSP it will be a chef’s kiss while saving money and space on cross-overs. Plus the the digital band-pass can be used on bright Focal tweeters to tune them to perfection. The way they were designed to be
@@johnnypolex yep. I will have another video soon with mid priced $300-600 speakers and you might be on to something. I think we have a sleeper in the group! Please subscribe!
@@Hi-Fire-do sweet! Just subscribed and i love watching demos and tests of moderately priced speakers I found that BMW’s Individual Audio speakers are made by Eton. They also manufacture B&O car speakers. Basically, i grabbed a pair for $50 on eBay and they are said to sound like $400 pairs of mids. Just another way to find budget gems Those have rigid and light honeycomb cones and use Neo magnets. Great for sports cars and also sensitive for low powered amps
I miss the old days. Everything now is generic/cookie cutter or over priced. My goto 'budget' 2-way 6.5 is and has been for many years, the Alpine Type-S...... although if given the choice and room to build another 'actual' system, I would go back to a 3 way front stage in a heartbeat: 7"-8" Mid Bass, 5.25" Mids, 1.5" Tweeters. Some might call my choices odd, but I am not a fan of the muddy nature of 6.5's as mids and their poor attempt to create chest-poking midbass (when used as the low end of a 3-way setup) although when asked to do both in a 2 way setup, they are the least of all evils. In terms of Mids, I loathe the sound of 4's and have always found 5.25" better sounding (even when compared to some 6.5's in 2-way setups)......and for tweeters, I am of the 'bigger is better' sounding opinion. 1.5" Soft Domes all day long. My Active Slope of choice for everything is 18db/oct (old school AudioControl brainwash perhaps) but have been known to add an additional cap to the tweeter to get that additional 6db/oct of slope if playing it down uncomfortably far. I learned in my later years that as far as equalization is concerned, I only use it to attenuate nearly exclusively. The days of the 'BIG V' Slider formation on a half-DIN Slider EQ are long past. For me, a Line Driver is also a must. 5V Pre is good, 7V+ is MUCH better (within reason). I don't care about DSP's, Time Alignment or any other crap. I would still use all AudioControl Analog Processing today if available. In regards to setup, I like the larger tweeter to play as low as possible, the mid playing in an envelope that won't see it's highs or lows at risk of breakup and the Midbass in an extremely narrow frequency window, as little as 2 Octaves....but fed with alot of power. On the low end, for a BOOMER of a system, I would use 12's. For SQ, I much prefer the sound of 10's. Best of luck with the channel. SUB'd.
I have however owned 1 model of 6.5" that I absolutely loved and used in 2 different systems, 1 as an active 2-way and the 2nd set as a Passive 2-way. The Hertz Mille 6.5", but this was BEFORE Audison was building speakers and when Hertz was still made in Italy, long before it was a big-box-store brand, many years ago. The Mille 6.5" and Tweeters, along with the work-of-art passive crossovers (metal chassis, plexi tops, each xover roughly the size of the average 2 chan amp of the day and featured passive time alignment, attenuation, bi-amp-ability etc). The Hertz Mille 1.25" tweeters were also my favorite at the time.
Cheap speakers aren't the issue...it's buying and boxing up speakers that aren't right for your use case/room/musical choices/speaker boxes/hearing profile/amp driving them/source input. In short, it's ultimately subjective.
I disagree. I'm putting tiogether another follow up to this on why you buy good speakers. Yes, it is subjective. I have tested 8 pairs of component speakers on my bench, not 2 sound the same. When I narrow down some speakers I will do an in car test for sure. Thanks for watching
I agree. Each speaker is designed differently and different material, coil, basket, magnet, etc. The free air frequency response curves will be different for each speaker for that reason. So of course they will all sound different. To get proper sound, they must be in a proper enclosure that the speaker is designed to be in for better performance. Read manufacturer suggested use/installation before buying. Also depending on subwoofer response characteristics and the crossover point/slope will have an impact on performance and speaker selection so it properly picks up where the sub leaves off. In a three way, the same concept holds true between mid speaker and tweeter. No matter how expensive or cheap priced the speaker is, no speaker will produce a flat consistent response across the entire band. Once a proper design is engineered, any lack or or abundance of response in any area can be fine tuned with an EQ.
@@ox6466 yep, but no eq will make the JL C1's sound good. I'm doing a test for an upcoming video with good speakers. A little spoiler, they sound good.....
My father owned a shop for decades, and he used to say, its no such thing as a chepe speaker as long as you know it limitations. This dumbell knows nothing
Recoil audio makes some $50 components and they sound better than those Jizz lamas. The gto609c sound great, I run them in one of my cars. My personal favorite mid is the orion xtx654 or neo, they kill my focals. In my 35 years of doing car audio the Cdt audio es series are my favorite. Sounded more lifelike then the focal k2p and polyglass
90s Jbl GTO and Green Infinity Kappa are some of the best car audio mids ive ever heard. I still haven't found a Car Mid that could beat the memory of those green Kappas..
Try the Prv bullet speakers. You might not like them, but they impressed me. I've ran the Quarts. FOCAL, Boston Pros, and I'm still impressed with Prv. I had some Infinity Perfects components and hated the way they sounded.
@Morecrazythanyou I thought the same thing until I installed them. They sound real good for sq, and I'm picky. I know what sq sounds like, but you need 3-4 component sets up front to really keep up with loud bass.
I disagree, I purchased a set of 6.5 Cadence comp set. They sold for $75 new at the time 2004. I put them in fiberglass kick panels and they sounded great!!! Just depends on application
I have those same jbl components running off factory radio. They sound very good me. Lots of bass they sound like mini subs and the tweeter sounds very clear not harsh at all. Just not as loud since running off factory radio.
Yeah. I think that is where the JBLs place is. They were significantly better than the JL. Neither shined well when used with a good amp when compared to a better quality speaker. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe to see our follow up videos coming soon on this.
You’re actually testing these free air on a baffle board? Everything will sound like crap on the woofers. You lost credibility with me testing like that.
All of these speakers are designed to be used in an “open baffle” configuration. For example, a door, or rear deck. You’re telling me you install your midranges into a fabricated enclosure designed for your speakers? I didn’t see in the instructions where they mention that. Yes a custom enclosure would help low end performance. Most people will not be running these full range and they will be crossed at 80hz. If you noticed the “good” speakers were good, even full range. The “cheap” speakers were terrible, likely in any scenario or installation scenario.
@@Ezees23 Go ahead then, show me the custom enclosures that you have built for your door speakers or rear deck. Component speakers are designed to be used infinite baffle, good ones anyway. These cheap speakers lack the spider structure and magnet to handle low frequency, so yes an enclosure would help these out on the low frequency range for sure, but no one is going to do that, cut a hole and insert or mount in an existing hole. I crossed them over, which eliminated the poor low frequency response, and that showed where these speaker really fail, at about 3-4k hz. They struggled with cone break up where they generally roll off into the tweeter, resulting in a muddy, nasally sound that even a bit of EQ could not fix. You get what you pay for most of the time, with that said I would buy the JBL at nearly half the cost of the JL, but because I own quality amplifiers and such and care about better than "good" sound, I would spend more than the $169 for the JL to get something better quality, which is what the next test is going to be. $300-600 speakers. This one will showcase some "name brand" vs "not so name brand" stuff to see if the brand name is worth the value of sound per dollar. thanks for your comment. But if you do have special enclosures for your high frequency speakers please share them
With all due respect. There is so many things wrong with this "test". 1. Placing 2 sets of componants on a open baffle 2. One with rear wave facing a corner of a garage wall other infront of another baffle 3. There is so many more things wrong on here. At least when it comes down to "testing" and making statement's on quality or performance etc. And giving advice based off said testing methods. Making statement's on the crossover design of the jbl being better because it maybe in a bigger enclosure and the JL audio has a simple 6 or 12db capacitor inline is also wrong. Drivers in this category usually only get a tweeter "cap" due to the characteristics of the mmidrange. Lower power handling and natural roll off of the driver. Tapping on the cone and making assessments of the quality doesn't do much either. The cone is probably sufficient enough again for the power handling. Now I know where people coming tapping my speaker cones come from. So irritating when folks do that. It's like the literal kicking of the tire of a car to gauge quality.😅. Speaker manufacturers design speakers to be optimized however good or bad they are optimized for the intended listening environment. Doesn't matter how little or much you spend with any manufacturer, if the installation and optimization for the environment is trash then the outcome will be trash. I can set up a proper test for these exact same speakers and get a totally different outcome....In my opinion. 😊
Thank you for your comments. I agree with some of your points, but installing and testing every speaker into an actual car would be extremely tedious and not likely to happen. While the testing environment was not near perfect, these speakers did poorly under the exact same circumstances as "better" speakers. The JBL speakers were not good, but the JL C1 speakers were just pitiful, at nearly double the cost of the JBL. FYI, off camera I did test some speakers using baffles, which the foam jobs you get for like $12 are literally just to keep water out and fit over the magnet like a sock, nothing like an "enclosure". I also put some batting behind the speakers to absorb any reflections coming off the back of the speakers. Sonically I really didn't notice a difference and it was in the way for the test so I left it out. Every speaker has a feel. Bright, warm, are terms used with many speakers. These two had a feel to them that many speakers do, nasally. If you watch my previous test I did, the Infinity Kappa 3 ways had a bit of a similar sound. Some speakers can be made to sound great with the aid of a DSP, which is a great idea. Some speakers like the China Focals I used in comparison, sound really good in any environment under most conditions and type of music. They are NOT perfect, but seem to not sound weird or bad ever. I have another test I'm putting together with separates in the $300-550 range. I think this is the sweet spot for people wanting quality sound and have the rest of the system to provide that. I have some big brand sets vs some less known brands to compare. I think there are some diamonds in the rough here to be had.
You really need to put each of these in boxes instead of just on an open baffle, IMHO. Open baffles will NOT allow them to have the midbass or midrange SQ that they're truly capable of whatsoever. That's audio 101, IMHO....
I agree that a proper enclosure would help the output of any speaker. In the installed environment in almost ANY car, there isn't going to be a "proper" enclosure. Most likely going to be an infinite baffle similar to our test, ie, rear deck or doors. On the other hand the speakers were tested against others under the same conditions. I also tested them crossed over, as they likely would be, so low frequency response shouldn't be a consideration, in fact both of these did extremely poor in the low frequency response and distorted because of their cheap spider construction, which higher end speakers with stiffer spiders and bigger magnets could handle much better. $100 speakers are never going to compete with $500 speakers, albeit they won't be 5 times better. The fact that the JL ones cost $169, makes them even less desirable, because they were out performed by a speaker nearly half that cost. I appreciate your comments, I hope you subscribe to see the next speaker test. We try to find some diamonds in the rough in speakers in the $300-600 range.
@@Hi-Fire-do Open baffle is not infinite baffle. Infinite is a far oversize sealed box. Some measurements may be similar but sound is not. Shape of baffle has dramatic effects. Poor quality box also has an effect, which is more like a car door or trunk. I heard that when Carver made the Amazing Loudspeaker, the driver manuf. came back and said "are you sure?", they get their bass open baffle from high Q due to tiny magnets!
When powerbass come out i tried the cheap set c6.5? I got them for $30.. mids and tweets. basic generic x-over . But they sounded way better than the fosgates i was running for more than double the price.. then i bought the Pbass 2xl mids.. first time i ever experienced ear fatigue.. sounded ok..but $130 no .. price isn't always a factor. Also depends on the doors. and acoustics of the car itself
There are a lot of factors, yes. Some speakers wear you out totally. Right now I'm testing some really expensive components, and I will say they don't sound bad anywhere, anyhow. So there is something to price and quality, well most of the time!
I have a 1985 Ford Ranger standard cab base model. It has two speaker spots in the upper dash right by the windshield. This limits the size and makes installing anything a pain. They are the only speaker locations. The door has no spot for any speaker. Not even a cutout under the door panel. If you install a speaker in the door you will probably have an issue rolling down the window all the way. Back to the only speaker locations. The OEM speaker is a 4 inch cheap speaker that only fits the 3 strange mounting locations. I do a lot of home audio and had a Denon sub missing the sound bar to make it work so I scabbed the speakers out of it. They are two 5 inch mid subs that have flat lines cut off the top and bottom making the sides half moons. It makes them fit in the holes. I need to make a mounting plate for them and I am in the process of this. They rock and can handle decent power. The sub box they came out of was a higher end Denon unit. I have since changed the Subwoofer in this truck but behind the seat is very limited so before I modified the wall behind the seat the only subwoofer I could get to fit was a six inch bazooka tube. Well I got it of off offerup and the sub in the unit was wasted. Well I did not have any car audio 6" subs so I used a home powered sub out of a old Sony powered sub unit. I had a clean 250w running to it. For a home audio six inch sub it sounded great. Now a six is not going to be earth shattering. Dialed in it was a nice thump for what it was. Now you know the difference in the speakers I just mentioned? Nothing they are just 4ohm speakers. They are no different then another speaker that looks fancy from a cool sticker on the magnet back plate and a stenciled cone and dust cap. If a guy can understand watts and ohm loads most speakers can sound good. Not all some are just trash before you bought them. You still get what you pay for. My goal building any system in a vehicle I own is to do it for the least amount of money. From my $10 JBL BP300.1 Monoblock amp from a thrift store to my SKAR Duel voice coil 2ohm 10" subwoofer someone put in a POLK AUDIO powered home sub. I got for $10 destroying the cheap amp in the POLK sub. that did not like being run at 2ohm's. Then scabbing the two 5" Denon subs for my mids. I got from a $5 thrift store buy. Try it go get a bunch of home audio and make a video on it. See what works and what don't. Now when I look for audio stuff at thrift stores and yard sales I do not buy anything built cheap. It is all higher end stuff. I look forward to seeing if you take the challenge.
So what is the challenge exactly? That’s awesome you are out finding this stuff and playing around with it. This is exactly what my purpose is with this channel. You don’t need to spend thousands to build a cool system. For some of us, just building a system is the fun part. Thank you for watching. If you have something interesting or crazy you want me to share out there, let me know.
@@Hi-Fire-do Just too dig in and figure out how it ticks. When I found it I was blown away. It is a unique item. It should be shown and shared. Figure out how it works. How does it change the ohm load when it is not part of the speaker. I wont give away whats on the inside. If you have a P.O. Box I will mail it to you. Once you get it, it is yours to do what you want. The challenge I was talking about would be building a car audio system with only yard sale (or equivalent), online market place, and thrift store home and pro audio speakers. (not amps, just speakers). Also the use of car audio tweeters is allowed as most home and pro tweeters are large and not very car friendly. I think this should be a thing in car audio competition events. Who can build the best sounding system with home and pro audio speakers. See I learned how to build systems in the 90's before internet. You had to either go to school to learn it. Read magazines and books and learn from someone who knew or knows about whatever it was you learned. Me it was from Car Audio Magazine and a few friends. I had a friend come over and I was working on a pile of shit swap meet speaker box for my car. I did not know he knew a lot about car audio and I asked his honest opinion, or I just got it regardless what he thought about my brand new trash box and subs. I guess he said, You want my honest opinion?" I said "yes" He said, "If it was me I would throw all that away and start over." and I did. A bit over a year later I was building my own passive crossovers, had a decent system in my old 1972 BMW and . For whatever reason I happen to be driving that day and he was in my BMW. He said, "Ya know what? My system is louder than yours, but I think yours sounds better." I am 53 now and still love a well rounded thumping system.
Think if you could change the ohm load on the fly you could make your amplifier throw out some angry 1 ohm power or some soft dainty power at 8 ohm's with the flick of a switch.
I have some "budget" components in my rav4 and they sound great. They're Alpine Type S components with a 6.5" woofer and a 1" silk dome tweeter and they sound great off my Sony head unit.
Thats good you like them. If you had the type R and an amp you would be amazed the difference, but that is much more involved to do. thanks for watching. Please subscribe!
@@ks71z28 I haven't done my back doors yet and my plan was to put the S ones in my rear doors and upgrade the front with the 3 way type R's and get a decent little 4 channel. Not going for audiophile quality or anything or trying to break the bank
@@lowlowsandclothes9923 I agree. I had the S coax and one died, replaced with a Polk and it was so much nicer. Top brands sometimes make really bad entry level stuff. I will say these JL C1 speakers are crazy horrible and cheap.
C2 is a big step up. I would love to test some sets in the $1000 range. We will be doing a test with some in the $400-600 range soon. Please subscribe if you havent already
I think a good tip would be to buy ANY set that is NOT made in China. Any French made Focal is an excellent speaker. Any Israeli made Morel. Any German made speaker. Any American made JL. Eton. Micro Precision, German Maestro, Italian made STEGs I think you can get a good set of Eton for around $300, maybe $400. All the Chinese brands are a decent upgrade from factory.
The Chinese focal sounded good. I’m sure the consistency isn’t the same. I’m sure they don’t get inspected like the French models do. China can make anything pretty good if you want it. Neither of these fall into That category.
Man I'm gonna get it, but it's better to be honest about these cheaper items. These cheap sets CAN sound good, but boy is it not worth the price when you put in the work required to make them sound good with a DSP and everything else. The other big part I wanted to save to the bottom so hopefully its hidden from the masses that view these comments, is the the consumer that these are marketed too don't actually care about sound quality reproduction. These cheap speakers are made for cheap music, and made to work in harsh use cases. The target demographic does not really mind if the vocals or the timbre of the sound produced. That market is all about a solid company to buy their stuff from. So when something stops working? Its under warranty. The installer knows it works out of the box so they don't have to worry about extra hours in rework or labor. They also don't have to worry about not having stock of something or losing a product line so you can't get replacements when you do a warranty claim. Harmon / Samsung and even J.L. Audio are consumer focused brands, and therefore, they have the confidence of the end buyer. Thus, these "Cheap" systems are made just for that market. Years ago I was at a circuit city and I was in a small town and I wanted to buy speakers from my car. Well I was pretty amazed by just how horrible the selection was for the car audio speakers. and they were significantly higher priced for what they were then other speakers of much better quality I could get a separates from parts express for example. since I really wanted to throw in some speakers that we can I simply walked over to the home audio section and found some poke speakers and they had an absolutely amazing sound so? I went and bought a pair of those for less than the pair of The car audio speakers that were available and they sounded amazing with my install Even with the stock crossover. When I use my decks crossover feature or networking function as pioneer called it I was able to customize the Twitter and woofer crossover points in a way where it sounded so clean it was breathtaking and I spent less than $45 on the four drivers and basically got a free box I could use for other stuff later on. The impedance really didn't turn out to be much of a problem as I had a pretty high power amplifier I could use and they worked wonderfully for the front stage Since it was a fully active system. So overall I honestly would not recommend most car audio speakers because they're either overpriced or you can get so much of a better deal if you simply buy the individual components from places like parts Express Madison or literally getting second-hand parts off of home audio speakers and using those. This is especially applies to the tweeters.
Majority of these cheap speakers share almost identical parts with a few tweeks to them. Most consumers just want to upgrade their stock and compared to stock, these sound amazing. But, when you get a pair of dynaudio, Stereo Integrity, Morel, and audiofrog. These cheap speakers are just crap, no matter what or who made them.
I'm testing some high-ish end stuff as we speak. They sound good any way you put them. One set needs a little EQ to get right, none sound absolutely perfect, but what is perfect? A really good speaker sounds nice ziptied to the rear view mirror! I'm not brave enough to get a set of $1000 components. I don't make money doing this and I have way too much gear for a modestly paid 50 year old man. I would love to borrow a set for an afternoon!
I would imagine as you pay more they get better. Which I guess is my point here. We are always wanting to find that unicorn bargain though. The JL C1 is NOT it! thanks for watching
As the channel grows it will be easier to get my hands on more brands like those. I imagine there are only so many chinese factories that make speakers for various companies
funny you say that. I think its the opposite, I think the woofers are just as much the problem if not more. Watch my 3 way component video. The mid ranges on the Infinity Kappa speakers were not so happy sounding, but when I comparred all the tweeters, they all seemed pretty similar and decent. In this test I'm going to say the woofers were the weak link. The JL C1's were just horrible, hollw and chinsy,
2 Way speakers have 2 separate drivers, woofer and tweeter. You are showing component speakers in which the woofer and tweeter are separate pieces, just saying
The JBL was louder, mostlt because its 2 ohm load making it louder. It was better. Yes that EQ is one of my best pieces, so usefull and cool. They should made double din units withem on the front! I hate having to scroll through menus to adjust eq. thanks for watching
@@mji8805 JL is an amazing brand, not sure why they would have their entry stuff so terrible, and really at a premium price for terrible. There are so many really crappy 2 way components out there under $100, why pay $169 for these piles of crap.
If they are in a door or a rear deck there is no enclosure. the baffle helps project the sound, plus they all were tested the same. These speakers aren't designed for a enclosure for the most part, which might help the low end, but most of the time you would cross them over at 80 hz anyway. Nothing is likely to help cheap speakers. We will have a test with some mid level $400-600 speakers soon. thanks for watching and please subscribe!
@@kenabi sometimes you get what you pay for. My hope is to get a set of $1000 plus components to test. No way I can justify that for myself. I do have some $600 plus sets, that will be an upcoming test. thanks for watching
Any one hear know of any new single din high end audiophile am fm cd players Pioneer stage 4 GONE along with prs80 Alpine GONE Kenwood Excelon CASTRATE to cheap junk Everything is just low end junk including speakers and amps
SOUND STORM IS A GOOD AMP? RIFLMAO. YOUR FUNNY. I DID HIGH END MOBILE AUDIO IN 2 DIFFERENT RETAIL STORES FOR 18 YEARS and have been doing mobile electronics for 45 years or more. Not sure about JLs current lines But its first take at doing car speakers sacked they were junk. That was back in the 1990s The late 90s eairly 2000 reference speakers were not bad the best speakers were elexlent. Sound storm has always been a budget amp line The stuff Jeff Scoon made was extremely good like xtants eairly stuff and JL Audios stuff. Hy fonics stuff when it was its own company was really really good and clean. Now its a budget line. The Rockford fosgate stuff with its turning lights is also good. JBL keep it. Infinity Beta was extremely good. But pricy. Hart makes nice speakers and belive it or not You can get decent midbass 8" marine grade planet audio speakers if you cross them over correctly. Polk audio speakers the MM stuff is really good. The normal stuff is also good best bang for the buck.
who the F#ck said anything about Sound Storm? Is that a typo? That is a Soundstream Rubicon 404 class AB amp from 1998. I'm pretty sure there aren't many out there that would question its legitimacy of a High-end SQ amplifier.
you can get better sounding coaxials than them JL Junk components. I have a set of kickers and a set of Sky High Basic level Coax's that sound better.....
yeah, I touched on that in the video. I think the bang for the buck, likely because of the cost of a crossover, makes coax speakers a good option dollar for dollar. thanks for watching!
In this case, forsure. On the whole. JL is a safe bet and worth the cost. Cheap stuff from top brands, not the best way to go as demonstrated here. I do think there are some less know brands that are great deals. Subscribe and we have a follow up to this in a week or two. thanks for watching
CT sounds makes a better audio driver than did JL audio , or JBL . Orion XTR is superior to just about every brand there is. You can find those test reports here on RUclips and listen for yourself. I'm a loudspeaker technician. JL audio speakers or nothing special. w6 driver -"the original super woofer" Was a copy. It was a Hollywood sound Labs edge Siries subwoofer. Hsl was making most speakers in the United States at that time foremost major brands. They never gets the credit that they deserve as a loudspeaker engineering and development company. Whenever I hear people bragging about JL audio I just can't understand it. You go about to spend $400 on a JL audio subwoofer... And then go spend 400 on an Orion . You're a Ryan subwoofer is going to perform twice as well as your JL audio. In every category. In every test. Whenever these brands are boasted the way they are is literally because people are buzzing about a brand name. Take Hertz mid ranges for example. cost $260 a pair -did not perform as well as drivers that cost $60 a pair. .. Rockville did better. I was a repair technician for Bose loudspeakers in the early 2000s. It cost $0.90 for a Tongan replacement Tweeter for Bose. You had to follow Moses program and you had to charge $100 to fix the speaker. Are you couldn't be factory authorized. You could not you cannot have sales on Bose speakers without prior manufacturers authorization. A real pain in the ass. But we all know those tones and tweeters are no better than pioneer Rack speaker system tweeters. Producing terrible hissing sounds at high volumes. Some of the worst cone breakup I have ever heard . They also claim that they are made in USA speakers. Not the tweeters. I'm not 8 inch woofers. And not to 6 in Woofers. And not the ten inchwoofers. They are manufactured by a company named geffco. Gefco is a Japanese brand, just like tonegin electronics . .. they are well made drivers however. They have massive Helicly wound voice coils that use multiple windings . I've seen as many as eight layers in some 1 inch voice coils. That's pretty impressive for little tiny coil . But if you're going to spend $1,000 on speakers -definitely by the cerwin Vegas next to him because the bows are definitely not going to sound better than the cerwin Vega is a thousand bucks.
Its always good to hear from someone in the industry with some first hand experience. My point here was not to bash JL's entire line, because they are a good company. I do think that there are good quality speakers out there without the "brand name" that are a better value. There are only so many Speaker build houses in China, Germany, etc. I could have my own line of components if I wanted to have 200 sets made, lol. In our next video we test some "other Brand" speakers that are in the mid level $300-500 range against some of the "big brand" stuff to see how it compares. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe
Everything is subjective and relative. Most wouldn’t consider a $150 set of speakers as cheap. They are cheaper than a $600 set but not “cheap”.
One could say not to buy a $600 set of Focals cause they are cheap and low quality. Instead buy the $2,300 set cause they aren’t cheap crap. Well yes, and I’m sure they are both better sounding than a $30 set from Walmart.
Really just listen to the set of speakers you wanna buy, and if you like them and their price, buy them.
you bet. My point with this video was to advice people who are enthusiast who aren't walmart Hi Fi shoppers to not buy cheap name brand speakers. For example I referenced CT sound 3 ways for $250, that were "nice". I also pointed out a set of used speakers of top quality I put together for under $100. So I gave options to viewers other than the "cheap" speakers. I also pointed out the the cheaper of the two was better. So If you take anything away from this video, don't buy Cheap JL C1 speakers! thanks for watching!
@@Hi-Fire-doyep, its recommended by many experts to generally avoid low tier speakers from higher end big box store speakers. You’re better off with a top-end line from a moderately priced brand.
Or better yet, piece together like you did. And if you want even more bang for your buck, go with something like Peerless 1” silk dome tweeters ($25/pair) combined with Faital mid and/or mid-bass drivers for excellent clarity, zero harshness & good sensitivity with less power supplied
With DSP it will be a chef’s kiss while saving money and space on cross-overs. Plus the the digital band-pass can be used on bright Focal tweeters to tune them to perfection. The way they were designed to be
@@johnnypolex yep. I will have another video soon with mid priced $300-600 speakers and you might be on to something. I think we have a sleeper in the group! Please subscribe!
@@Hi-Fire-do sweet! Just subscribed and i love watching demos and tests of moderately priced speakers
I found that BMW’s Individual Audio speakers are made by Eton. They also manufacture B&O car speakers. Basically, i grabbed a pair for $50 on eBay and they are said to sound like $400 pairs of mids. Just another way to find budget gems
Those have rigid and light honeycomb cones and use Neo magnets. Great for sports cars and also sensitive for low powered amps
@@johnnypolex Thats interesting. A lot of "premium" factory stuff really isn't very good. I will keep my eyes open thanks!
I miss the old days. Everything now is generic/cookie cutter or over priced. My goto 'budget' 2-way 6.5 is and has been for many years, the Alpine Type-S...... although if given the choice and room to build another 'actual' system, I would go back to a 3 way front stage in a heartbeat: 7"-8" Mid Bass, 5.25" Mids, 1.5" Tweeters.
Some might call my choices odd, but I am not a fan of the muddy nature of 6.5's as mids and their poor attempt to create chest-poking midbass (when used as the low end of a 3-way setup) although when asked to do both in a 2 way setup, they are the least of all evils. In terms of Mids, I loathe the sound of 4's and have always found 5.25" better sounding (even when compared to some 6.5's in 2-way setups)......and for tweeters, I am of the 'bigger is better' sounding opinion. 1.5" Soft Domes all day long. My Active Slope of choice for everything is 18db/oct (old school AudioControl brainwash perhaps) but have been known to add an additional cap to the tweeter to get that additional 6db/oct of slope if playing it down uncomfortably far. I learned in my later years that as far as equalization is concerned, I only use it to attenuate nearly exclusively. The days of the 'BIG V' Slider formation on a half-DIN Slider EQ are long past. For me, a Line Driver is also a must. 5V Pre is good, 7V+ is MUCH better (within reason). I don't care about DSP's, Time Alignment or any other crap. I would still use all AudioControl Analog Processing today if available.
In regards to setup, I like the larger tweeter to play as low as possible, the mid playing in an envelope that won't see it's highs or lows at risk of breakup and the Midbass in an extremely narrow frequency window, as little as 2 Octaves....but fed with alot of power. On the low end, for a BOOMER of a system, I would use 12's. For SQ, I much prefer the sound of 10's. Best of luck with the channel. SUB'd.
I have however owned 1 model of 6.5" that I absolutely loved and used in 2 different systems, 1 as an active 2-way and the 2nd set as a Passive 2-way. The Hertz Mille 6.5", but this was BEFORE Audison was building speakers and when Hertz was still made in Italy, long before it was a big-box-store brand, many years ago. The Mille 6.5" and Tweeters, along with the work-of-art passive crossovers (metal chassis, plexi tops, each xover roughly the size of the average 2 chan amp of the day and featured passive time alignment, attenuation, bi-amp-ability etc). The Hertz Mille 1.25" tweeters were also my favorite at the time.
I agree with most of your points. Packaging is always a consideration as well. Thanks for watching!
Those sound great. Awesome speakers aren’t something new. Cast baskets and carbon fiber don’t make a speaker!
Cheap speakers aren't the issue...it's buying and boxing up speakers that aren't right for your use case/room/musical choices/speaker boxes/hearing profile/amp driving them/source input. In short, it's ultimately subjective.
I disagree. I'm putting tiogether another follow up to this on why you buy good speakers. Yes, it is subjective. I have tested 8 pairs of component speakers on my bench, not 2 sound the same. When I narrow down some speakers I will do an in car test for sure. Thanks for watching
@Hi-Fire-do are you testing them free air? Or In each enclosure suited to the specific driver?
I agree. Each speaker is designed differently and different material, coil, basket, magnet, etc. The free air frequency response curves will be different for each speaker for that reason. So of course they will all sound different. To get proper sound, they must be in a proper enclosure that the speaker is designed to be in for better performance. Read manufacturer suggested use/installation before buying. Also depending on subwoofer response characteristics and the crossover point/slope will have an impact on performance and speaker selection so it properly picks up where the sub leaves off. In a three way, the same concept holds true between mid speaker and tweeter. No matter how expensive or cheap priced the speaker is, no speaker will produce a flat consistent response across the entire band. Once a proper design is engineered, any lack or or abundance of response in any area can be fine tuned with an EQ.
@@ox6466 yep, but no eq will make the JL C1's sound good. I'm doing a test for an upcoming video with good speakers. A little spoiler, they sound good.....
I have the cheapest Skar 6.5 coaxle mids in my silverado, on a jl 6 channel. They are crystal clear!
My father owned a shop for decades, and he used to say, its no such thing as a chepe speaker as long as you know it limitations. This dumbell knows nothing
He knows how the spell cheap. Unlike you
@@Hi-Fire-do I was driving and texting at the time, but that doesn't change the fact that you know nothing about car audio
@@tomb9566 Well I will say, your dad is right. These speakers limitations should be left in the box, especially the JL.
This guy is deaf.
Recoil audio makes some $50 components and they sound better than those Jizz lamas. The gto609c sound great, I run them in one of my cars. My personal favorite mid is the orion xtx654 or neo, they kill my focals. In my 35 years of doing car audio the Cdt audio es series are my favorite. Sounded more lifelike then the focal k2p and polyglass
@@terrenperez Orion really has something special going on. They begin US production in May.
90s Jbl GTO and Green Infinity Kappa are some of the best car audio mids ive ever heard.
I still haven't found a Car Mid that could beat the memory of those green Kappas..
The Primus series aren't too bad if you feed em 75-80watts
Try the Prv bullet speakers. You might not like them, but they impressed me. I've ran the Quarts. FOCAL, Boston Pros, and I'm still impressed with Prv. I had some Infinity Perfects components and hated the way they sounded.
Prv good for spl but not sq
@Morecrazythanyou I thought the same thing until I installed them. They sound real good for sq, and I'm picky. I know what sq sounds like, but you need 3-4 component sets up front to really keep up with loud bass.
@@drjd2real gmr400? Those things are like $40. No way they are as good as green Kappas from the 90s.
I disagree, I purchased a set of 6.5 Cadence comp set. They sold for $75 new at the time 2004. I put them in fiberglass kick panels and they sounded great!!! Just depends on application
I have those same jbl components running off factory radio. They sound very good me. Lots of bass they sound like mini subs and the tweeter sounds very clear not harsh at all. Just not as loud since running off factory radio.
Yeah. I think that is where the JBLs place is. They were significantly better than the JL. Neither shined well when used with a good amp when compared to a better quality speaker. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe to see our follow up videos coming soon on this.
I always run Infinity coaxials in all my cars. Kappa, Reference and Primus, all sound good to me. Been running them for at least 20 years.
I have some poll audio coax. The db ones. They sound good and about $120.
You’re actually testing these free air on a baffle board? Everything will sound like crap on the woofers. You lost credibility with me testing like that.
All of these speakers are designed to be used in an “open baffle” configuration. For example, a door, or rear deck. You’re telling me you install your midranges into a fabricated enclosure designed for your speakers? I didn’t see in the instructions where they mention that. Yes a custom enclosure would help low end performance. Most people will not be running these full range and they will be crossed at 80hz. If you noticed the “good” speakers were good, even full range. The “cheap” speakers were terrible, likely in any scenario or installation scenario.
THIS!!! Audio 101 fail, IMHO.....
@@Ezees23 Go ahead then, show me the custom enclosures that you have built for your door speakers or rear deck. Component speakers are designed to be used infinite baffle, good ones anyway. These cheap speakers lack the spider structure and magnet to handle low frequency, so yes an enclosure would help these out on the low frequency range for sure, but no one is going to do that, cut a hole and insert or mount in an existing hole. I crossed them over, which eliminated the poor low frequency response, and that showed where these speaker really fail, at about 3-4k hz. They struggled with cone break up where they generally roll off into the tweeter, resulting in a muddy, nasally sound that even a bit of EQ could not fix. You get what you pay for most of the time, with that said I would buy the JBL at nearly half the cost of the JL, but because I own quality amplifiers and such and care about better than "good" sound, I would spend more than the $169 for the JL to get something better quality, which is what the next test is going to be. $300-600 speakers. This one will showcase some "name brand" vs "not so name brand" stuff to see if the brand name is worth the value of sound per dollar. thanks for your comment. But if you do have special enclosures for your high frequency speakers please share them
Build your own system using Dayton Audio components, great stuff!
Yep. That’s a good idea. We did that with used components.
With all due respect. There is so many things wrong with this "test".
1. Placing 2 sets of componants on a open baffle
2. One with rear wave facing a corner of a garage wall other infront of another baffle
3. There is so many more things wrong on here. At least when it comes down to "testing" and making statement's on quality or performance etc. And giving advice based off said testing methods. Making statement's on the crossover design of the jbl being better because it maybe in a bigger enclosure and the JL audio has a simple 6 or 12db capacitor inline is also wrong. Drivers in this category usually only get a tweeter "cap" due to the characteristics of the mmidrange. Lower power handling and natural roll off of the driver. Tapping on the cone and making assessments of the quality doesn't do much either. The cone is probably sufficient enough again for the power handling. Now I know where people coming tapping my speaker cones come from. So irritating when folks do that. It's like the literal kicking of the tire of a car to gauge quality.😅. Speaker manufacturers design speakers to be optimized however good or bad they are optimized for the intended listening environment. Doesn't matter how little or much you spend with any manufacturer, if the installation and optimization for the environment is trash then the outcome will be trash. I can set up a proper test for these exact same speakers and get a totally different outcome....In my opinion. 😊
Thank you for your comments. I agree with some of your points, but installing and testing every speaker into an actual car would be extremely tedious and not likely to happen. While the testing environment was not near perfect, these speakers did poorly under the exact same circumstances as "better" speakers. The JBL speakers were not good, but the JL C1 speakers were just pitiful, at nearly double the cost of the JBL. FYI, off camera I did test some speakers using baffles, which the foam jobs you get for like $12 are literally just to keep water out and fit over the magnet like a sock, nothing like an "enclosure". I also put some batting behind the speakers to absorb any reflections coming off the back of the speakers. Sonically I really didn't notice a difference and it was in the way for the test so I left it out. Every speaker has a feel. Bright, warm, are terms used with many speakers. These two had a feel to them that many speakers do, nasally. If you watch my previous test I did, the Infinity Kappa 3 ways had a bit of a similar sound. Some speakers can be made to sound great with the aid of a DSP, which is a great idea. Some speakers like the China Focals I used in comparison, sound really good in any environment under most conditions and type of music. They are NOT perfect, but seem to not sound weird or bad ever. I have another test I'm putting together with separates in the $300-550 range. I think this is the sweet spot for people wanting quality sound and have the rest of the system to provide that. I have some big brand sets vs some less known brands to compare. I think there are some diamonds in the rough here to be had.
Otis McDonald's song Find My Way Home is an excellent song to test mids with, and it isn't copyrighted.
You really need to put each of these in boxes instead of just on an open baffle, IMHO. Open baffles will NOT allow them to have the midbass or midrange SQ that they're truly capable of whatsoever. That's audio 101, IMHO....
I agree that a proper enclosure would help the output of any speaker. In the installed environment in almost ANY car, there isn't going to be a "proper" enclosure. Most likely going to be an infinite baffle similar to our test, ie, rear deck or doors. On the other hand the speakers were tested against others under the same conditions. I also tested them crossed over, as they likely would be, so low frequency response shouldn't be a consideration, in fact both of these did extremely poor in the low frequency response and distorted because of their cheap spider construction, which higher end speakers with stiffer spiders and bigger magnets could handle much better. $100 speakers are never going to compete with $500 speakers, albeit they won't be 5 times better. The fact that the JL ones cost $169, makes them even less desirable, because they were out performed by a speaker nearly half that cost. I appreciate your comments, I hope you subscribe to see the next speaker test. We try to find some diamonds in the rough in speakers in the $300-600 range.
@@Hi-Fire-do Open baffle is not infinite baffle. Infinite is a far oversize sealed box. Some measurements may be similar but sound is not. Shape of baffle has dramatic effects. Poor quality box also has an effect, which is more like a car door or trunk.
I heard that when Carver made the Amazing Loudspeaker, the driver manuf. came back and said "are you sure?", they get their bass open baffle from high Q due to tiny magnets!
Still running some optidrive 6c components, 3" coil on a 6.5 speaker that sound as nice as my alpine type x components.
Thanks for the reply. Please subscribe and watch for our NEXT speaker test series!
I have the JBL GTO 609c in 2 of my cars. I think they sound great.
These are the 629. I think a step down. They weren’t as bad as the JL. JL should never make a product like this.
In this test, the JL sounded the best. Although the JBL were brighter and harsher they sounded better than the used set.
Thanks for watching!
When powerbass come out i tried the cheap set c6.5? I got them for $30.. mids and tweets.
basic generic x-over . But they sounded way better than the fosgates i was running for more than double the price.. then i bought the Pbass 2xl mids.. first time i ever experienced ear fatigue.. sounded ok..but $130 no .. price isn't always a factor.
Also depends on the doors. and acoustics of the car itself
There are a lot of factors, yes. Some speakers wear you out totally. Right now I'm testing some really expensive components, and I will say they don't sound bad anywhere, anyhow. So there is something to price and quality, well most of the time!
I have a 1985 Ford Ranger standard cab base model. It has two speaker spots in the upper dash right by the windshield. This limits the size and makes installing anything a pain. They are the only speaker locations. The door has no spot for any speaker. Not even a cutout under the door panel. If you install a speaker in the door you will probably have an issue rolling down the window all the way. Back to the only speaker locations. The OEM speaker is a 4 inch cheap speaker that only fits the 3 strange mounting locations. I do a lot of home audio and had a Denon sub missing the sound bar to make it work so I scabbed the speakers out of it. They are two 5 inch mid subs that have flat lines cut off the top and bottom making the sides half moons. It makes them fit in the holes. I need to make a mounting plate for them and I am in the process of this. They rock and can handle decent power. The sub box they came out of was a higher end Denon unit. I have since changed the Subwoofer in this truck but behind the seat is very limited so before I modified the wall behind the seat the only subwoofer I could get to fit was a six inch bazooka tube. Well I got it of off offerup and the sub in the unit was wasted. Well I did not have any car audio 6" subs so I used a home powered sub out of a old Sony powered sub unit. I had a clean 250w running to it. For a home audio six inch sub it sounded great. Now a six is not going to be earth shattering. Dialed in it was a nice thump for what it was. Now you know the difference in the speakers I just mentioned? Nothing they are just 4ohm speakers. They are no different then another speaker that looks fancy from a cool sticker on the magnet back plate and a stenciled cone and dust cap. If a guy can understand watts and ohm loads most speakers can sound good. Not all some are just trash before you bought them. You still get what you pay for. My goal building any system in a vehicle I own is to do it for the least amount of money. From my $10 JBL BP300.1 Monoblock amp from a thrift store to my SKAR Duel voice coil 2ohm 10" subwoofer someone put in a POLK AUDIO powered home sub. I got for $10 destroying the cheap amp in the POLK sub. that did not like being run at 2ohm's. Then scabbing the two 5" Denon subs for my mids. I got from a $5 thrift store buy. Try it go get a bunch of home audio and make a video on it. See what works and what don't. Now when I look for audio stuff at thrift stores and yard sales I do not buy anything built cheap. It is all higher end stuff. I look forward to seeing if you take the challenge.
So what is the challenge exactly? That’s awesome you are out finding this stuff and playing around with it. This is exactly what my purpose is with this channel. You don’t need to spend thousands to build a cool system. For some of us, just building a system is the fun part. Thank you for watching. If you have something interesting or crazy you want me to share out there, let me know.
@@Hi-Fire-do Just too dig in and figure out how it ticks. When I found it I was blown away. It is a unique item. It should be shown and shared. Figure out how it works. How does it change the ohm load when it is not part of the speaker. I wont give away whats on the inside. If you have a P.O. Box I will mail it to you. Once you get it, it is yours to do what you want.
The challenge I was talking about would be building a car audio system with only yard sale (or equivalent), online market place, and thrift store home and pro audio speakers. (not amps, just speakers). Also the use of car audio tweeters is allowed as most home and pro tweeters are large and not very car friendly. I think this should be a thing in car audio competition events. Who can build the best sounding system with home and pro audio speakers.
See I learned how to build systems in the 90's before internet. You had to either go to school to learn it. Read magazines and books and learn from someone who knew or knows about whatever it was you learned. Me it was from Car Audio Magazine and a few friends. I had a friend come over and I was working on a pile of shit swap meet speaker box for my car. I did not know he knew a lot about car audio and I asked his honest opinion, or I just got it regardless what he thought about my brand new trash box and subs. I guess he said, You want my honest opinion?" I said "yes" He said, "If it was me I would throw all that away and start over." and I did. A bit over a year later I was building my own passive crossovers, had a decent system in my old 1972 BMW and . For whatever reason I happen to be driving that day and he was in my BMW. He said, "Ya know what? My system is louder than yours, but I think yours sounds better." I am 53 now and still love a well rounded thumping system.
Think if you could change the ohm load on the fly you could make your amplifier throw out some angry 1 ohm power or some soft dainty power at 8 ohm's with the flick of a switch.
@@spagsketti thats what the volume knob does! You can have a bass know on the sub as well
@@spagsketti That is what the early days of big car audio was, as well as many high schoolers of the day.
I have some "budget" components in my rav4 and they sound great. They're Alpine Type S components with a 6.5" woofer and a 1" silk dome tweeter and they sound great off my Sony head unit.
Thats good you like them. If you had the type R and an amp you would be amazed the difference, but that is much more involved to do. thanks for watching. Please subscribe!
@@ks71z28 I haven't done my back doors yet and my plan was to put the S ones in my rear doors and upgrade the front with the 3 way type R's and get a decent little 4 channel. Not going for audiophile quality or anything or trying to break the bank
I sell tons of the S and R, the S sound pretty good but the R sound miles better and their much louder even with the same amp
@@lowlowsandclothes9923 I agree. I had the S coax and one died, replaced with a Polk and it was so much nicer. Top brands sometimes make really bad entry level stuff. I will say these JL C1 speakers are crazy horrible and cheap.
The base line Morel Maximo component speakers sounded great, they are in your “cheap” price range.
I also have them 6x9 JL c2 and c2 components. Sounds good. Dreaming about getting c7 set😊
C2 is a big step up. I would love to test some sets in the $1000 range. We will be doing a test with some in the $400-600 range soon. Please subscribe if you havent already
I think a good tip would be to buy ANY set that is NOT made in China. Any French made Focal is an excellent speaker. Any Israeli made Morel. Any German made speaker. Any American made JL. Eton. Micro Precision, German Maestro, Italian made STEGs I think you can get a good set of Eton for around $300, maybe $400. All the Chinese brands are a decent upgrade from factory.
The Chinese focal sounded good. I’m sure the consistency isn’t the same. I’m sure they don’t get inspected like the French models do. China can make anything pretty good if you want it. Neither of these fall into That category.
Do good clean power to some garbage speakers sound better than some distorted power to some great speakers?
Why do either! Match your quality.
hi there. what is that switching device your using?
There are lots of devices, which one? I have speaker selectors, and head unit selectors, just like the stereo shop back in the day!
@@Hi-Fire-do the speaker selectors. when you switched the JLs and JBLs
@@Hotecce1 that is a 4 way speaker selector. Lots of home stuff use them
The JBL's were acceptable for that price range
The JBL were worth the $100, plus they came with grills. The JL were just aweful junk
Man I'm gonna get it, but it's better to be honest about these cheaper items.
These cheap sets CAN sound good, but boy is it not worth the price when you put in the work required to make them sound good with a DSP and everything else.
The other big part I wanted to save to the bottom so hopefully its hidden from the masses that view these comments, is the the consumer that these are marketed too don't actually care about sound quality reproduction.
These cheap speakers are made for cheap music, and made to work in harsh use cases.
The target demographic does not really mind if the vocals or the timbre of the sound produced.
That market is all about a solid company to buy their stuff from.
So when something stops working? Its under warranty.
The installer knows it works out of the box so they don't have to worry about extra hours in rework or labor.
They also don't have to worry about not having stock of something or losing a product line so you can't get replacements when you do a warranty claim.
Harmon / Samsung and even J.L. Audio are consumer focused brands, and therefore, they have the confidence of the end buyer.
Thus, these "Cheap" systems are made just for that market.
Years ago I was at a circuit city and I was in a small town and I wanted to buy speakers from my car. Well I was pretty amazed by just how horrible the selection was for the car audio speakers.
and they were significantly higher priced for what they were then other speakers of much better quality I could get a separates from parts express for example.
since I really wanted to throw in some speakers that we can I simply walked over to the home audio section and found some poke speakers and they had an absolutely amazing sound so? I went and bought a pair of those for less than the pair of The car audio speakers that were available and they sounded amazing with my install Even with the stock crossover.
When I use my decks crossover feature or networking function as pioneer called it I was able to customize the Twitter and woofer crossover points in a way where it sounded so clean it was breathtaking and I spent less than $45 on the four drivers and basically got a free box I could use for other stuff later on.
The impedance really didn't turn out to be much of a problem as I had a pretty high power amplifier I could use and they worked wonderfully for the front stage Since it was a fully active system.
So overall I honestly would not recommend most car audio speakers because they're either overpriced or you can get so much of a better deal if you simply buy the individual components from places like parts Express Madison or literally getting second-hand parts off of home audio speakers and using those. This is especially applies to the tweeters.
thanks for the comment, yeah thats the point here. Why buy new cheap? Theres lots of options out there! Hope you subscribed to see more
Majority of these cheap speakers share almost identical parts with a few tweeks to them. Most consumers just want to upgrade their stock and compared to stock, these sound amazing. But, when you get a pair of dynaudio, Stereo Integrity, Morel, and audiofrog. These cheap speakers are just crap, no matter what or who made them.
I'm testing some high-ish end stuff as we speak. They sound good any way you put them. One set needs a little EQ to get right, none sound absolutely perfect, but what is perfect? A really good speaker sounds nice ziptied to the rear view mirror! I'm not brave enough to get a set of $1000 components. I don't make money doing this and I have way too much gear for a modestly paid 50 year old man. I would love to borrow a set for an afternoon!
Go get the jbl club sq series they sound amazing and they are about 150
I would imagine as you pay more they get better. Which I guess is my point here. We are always wanting to find that unicorn bargain though. The JL C1 is NOT it!
thanks for watching
I've had luck with Recoil
As the channel grows it will be easier to get my hands on more brands like those. I imagine there are only so many chinese factories that make speakers for various companies
Alot of component sets share the same problem...cheap tweeters.
funny you say that. I think its the opposite, I think the woofers are just as much the problem if not more. Watch my 3 way component video. The mid ranges on the Infinity Kappa speakers were not so happy sounding, but when I comparred all the tweeters, they all seemed pretty similar and decent. In this test I'm going to say the woofers were the weak link. The JL C1's were just horrible, hollw and chinsy,
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2 Way speakers have 2 separate drivers, woofer and tweeter. You are showing component speakers in which the woofer and tweeter are separate pieces, just saying
You are referring to a coax vs component?
jbl sounded like had way more treble love those alpine 11 band EQ
The JBL was louder, mostlt because its 2 ohm load making it louder. It was better. Yes that EQ is one of my best pieces, so usefull and cool. They should made double din units withem on the front! I hate having to scroll through menus to adjust eq. thanks for watching
Bought the yellow speakers 2 years ago for my wife's truck. Never put them on yet... i was hurting at the time and looking for mid tier quality.
You would expect more from JL. I was hoping to get a line in some off brand budget speakers to throw into the mix but that never worked out.
@@Hi-Fire-do I'm not an audio Enthusiast but my initial thought was That Jl audio was a pretty reputable brand.
@@mji8805 JL is an amazing brand, not sure why they would have their entry stuff so terrible, and really at a premium price for terrible. There are so many really crappy 2 way components out there under $100, why pay $169 for these piles of crap.
Would help a lot to have them in an enclosure.
If they are in a door or a rear deck there is no enclosure. the baffle helps project the sound, plus they all were tested the same. These speakers aren't designed for a enclosure for the most part, which might help the low end, but most of the time you would cross them over at 80 hz anyway. Nothing is likely to help cheap speakers. We will have a test with some mid level $400-600 speakers soon. thanks for watching and please subscribe!
Neo magnet?
Yes. The focal has one.
@@Hi-Fire-do looks like an old 6v2.
Neodymium not neodydium 😁
>mentions focal
yeah i'm out.
they are chinese Auditor Series Focals, and they sound awesome. $350 for 3 ways, way better than $150 for junk. Just saying.
@@Hi-Fire-do the entire brand is the epitome of 'sucker tax'.
@@kenabi sometimes you get what you pay for. My hope is to get a set of $1000 plus components to test. No way I can justify that for myself. I do have some $600 plus sets, that will be an upcoming test. thanks for watching
Any one hear know of any new single din high end audiophile am fm cd players Pioneer stage 4 GONE along with prs80 Alpine GONE Kenwood Excelon CASTRATE to cheap junk Everything is just low end junk including speakers and amps
Yeah. Stuff sucks. Won’t be 25 year old stuff in 25 years
i agree, the c2 are an awful set of speakers as well. Not competitively priced at all
Jbl c608gti mk2 are awesome two ways
SOUND STORM IS A GOOD AMP?
RIFLMAO.
YOUR FUNNY.
I DID HIGH END MOBILE AUDIO IN 2 DIFFERENT RETAIL STORES FOR 18 YEARS and have been doing mobile electronics for 45 years or more.
Not sure about JLs current lines
But its first take at doing car speakers sacked they were junk.
That was back in the 1990s
The late 90s eairly 2000 reference speakers were not bad the best speakers were elexlent.
Sound storm has always been a budget amp line
The stuff Jeff Scoon made was extremely good like xtants eairly stuff and JL Audios stuff.
Hy fonics stuff when it was its own company was really really good and clean. Now its a budget line.
The Rockford fosgate stuff with its turning lights is also good.
JBL keep it.
Infinity Beta was extremely good.
But pricy. Hart makes nice speakers and belive it or not
You can get decent midbass 8" marine grade planet audio speakers if you cross them over correctly. Polk audio speakers the MM stuff is really good. The normal stuff is also good best bang for the buck.
who the F#ck said anything about Sound Storm? Is that a typo? That is a Soundstream Rubicon 404 class AB amp from 1998. I'm pretty sure there aren't many out there that would question its legitimacy of a High-end SQ amplifier.
you can get better sounding coaxials than them JL Junk components. I have a set of kickers and a set of Sky High Basic level Coax's that sound better.....
yeah, I touched on that in the video. I think the bang for the buck, likely because of the cost of a crossover, makes coax speakers a good option dollar for dollar. thanks for watching!
Cool testing set up
Thanks, its been fun making it better all the time. If you go back to the first videos you can see how far it has come.
Both brands that I can’t afford..
I've always felt JL has been overpriced.
In this case, forsure. On the whole. JL is a safe bet and worth the cost. Cheap stuff from top brands, not the best way to go as demonstrated here. I do think there are some less know brands that are great deals. Subscribe and we have a follow up to this in a week or two. thanks for watching
These ones is so annoying. It is just these.
CT sounds makes a better audio driver than did JL audio , or JBL . Orion XTR is superior to just about every brand there is. You can find those test reports here on RUclips and listen for yourself. I'm a loudspeaker technician. JL audio speakers or nothing special. w6 driver -"the original super woofer"
Was a copy. It was a Hollywood sound Labs edge Siries subwoofer. Hsl was making most speakers in the United States at that time foremost major brands. They never gets the credit that they deserve as a loudspeaker engineering and development company. Whenever I hear people bragging about JL audio I just can't understand it. You go about to spend $400 on a JL audio subwoofer... And then go spend 400 on an Orion . You're a Ryan subwoofer is going to perform twice as well as your JL audio. In every category. In every test. Whenever these brands are boasted the way they are is literally because people are buzzing about a brand name. Take Hertz mid ranges for example. cost $260 a pair -did not perform as well as drivers that cost $60 a pair. .. Rockville did better. I was a repair technician for Bose loudspeakers in the early 2000s. It cost $0.90 for a Tongan replacement Tweeter for Bose. You had to follow Moses program and you had to charge $100 to fix the speaker. Are you couldn't be factory authorized. You could not you cannot have sales on Bose speakers without prior manufacturers authorization. A real pain in the ass. But we all know those tones and tweeters are no better than pioneer Rack speaker system tweeters. Producing terrible hissing sounds at high volumes. Some of the worst cone breakup I have ever heard . They also claim that they are made in USA speakers. Not the tweeters. I'm not 8 inch woofers. And not to 6 in Woofers. And not the ten inchwoofers. They are manufactured by a company named geffco. Gefco is a Japanese brand, just like tonegin electronics . .. they are well made drivers however. They have massive Helicly wound voice coils that use multiple windings . I've seen as many as eight layers in some 1 inch voice coils. That's pretty impressive for little tiny coil . But if you're going to spend $1,000 on speakers -definitely by the cerwin Vegas next to him because the bows are definitely not going to sound better than the cerwin Vega is a thousand bucks.
Its always good to hear from someone in the industry with some first hand experience. My point here was not to bash JL's entire line, because they are a good company. I do think that there are good quality speakers out there without the "brand name" that are a better value. There are only so many Speaker build houses in China, Germany, etc. I could have my own line of components if I wanted to have 200 sets made, lol. In our next video we test some "other Brand" speakers that are in the mid level $300-500 range against some of the "big brand" stuff to see how it compares. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe
@@Hi-Fire-do I'm subbed for a long time my friend
@@Hi-Fire-do I'm sorry about all the typos there. I do text to speech while I'm driving. I saw that Orion has become oh Ryan lol 😅
@@RobertLester-k2s Thanks buddy. I have a video that might be up tonight. Somebody gets axed in the end, just saying!