Northeast vs. Southern Framing! What's the Difference?
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- Опубликовано: 19 май 2024
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A little something that may contribute to lower ceilings here in the north-east: Higher ceilings creates more space that needs to be heated in the winter. Also, as warm air rises, it takes longer for the lower part of the room (where we actually are!) to get to a comfortable temperature. This is especially noticeable with resistive heating. In older homes with poor insulation, it's common to be comfortable when standing up but freezing when sitting on the couch!
And then for us Southerns, high ceilings gives the heat someplace to go during the summer. That's why older historic houses in the south could have 10-16 foot ceilings and that style has continued for aesthetic reasons (the practical uses are gone with modern HVAC of course).
I'm now imagining beds that can be raised towards the ceiling, but causing havoc during mid-night bathroom breaks
My 1966 NY house was built and weatherproofed much better than my 1995 NC house
As someone who has done commercial construction all over the country the biggest factor is the land the house is built on. In the north east flat ground is expensive, and almost non existent, so houses have been built "up" (multiple floors, lower ceilings, steeper roofs for snow load) in the south flat ground is every where, easy to develop so structures can be built more horizontally, or sprawled. This main difference along with regional material availability has led to different building methods developing and "evolving"
hell, having a basement with one side at ground level isn't that uncommon.
literally building into the hills.
@@ARockRaiderThats my preference. With a walkout basement, you never have to worry about flooding (well, unless the surrounding area gets flooded).
@@CMVBrielman walkout basements are really cool, i haven't lived with them but the utility access would be so nice!
@@ARockRaider Yup. Makes for a better finished basement experience, in addition to the flood protection.
The job site is clean and organized. This guy is definitely a professional. 🙏
Agreed. Then you see a dude walk by at 7:35 that has no typical work gear on. Interesting
@@jd1029 I went back and looked. Sketchy guy with a hoody on 😂. I did not see him the first time
I work on the largest high end homes in Ohio. There is a huge difference between what gets normally seen in a video and what happens every day, all day, non stop continuous.
He’s getting interviewed on site. He would have to be a real schmuck to not have the site clean.
cleanup crew @@jd1029
Around here in the Boston area we have a lot of historical, grand victorian homes from the 19th century and boy are the ceilings high. I actually like that a lot. I think ceilings shrunk down because of cost savings and also the higher cost of heating a space with a high ceiling.
Usually the reason. I typically work on the North Shore and Seacoast (but also up to about Portland). Lower-end homes tend to have about 7/9 ceilings. Most newer homes are being done around 8/6 to 9/0 now, though I'm finishing one beachfront tower that (due to structure height restrictions) has basically all 7/6 and lower ceilings.
@@aboutwhat1930mine is a 1924 Tudor and I have 8/9 ceilings (balloon frame). This is around that time that ceilings standardized to 8 across the industry. It only went back up again around the 90s with the advent of the McMansion. Now I wouldn't call my house low-end, I paid 2M for it... But I guess you meant that for new construction.
The real reason Victorian era ceilings were high was to accomodate the gas chandeliers. They couldn't be too close to the ceiling. 14ft was not uncommon.
Damn imagine being in the house behind the new construction. Spend incredible amount of money for a decent view and someone builds a massive house in front of you
Sucks a lot, but usually you factor that in when you buy in a spot like that. If you're not THE front lot, then you know you're on borrowed time before someone builds a McMansion in front of you.
On the flip side water levels keep going up so that McMansion might be gone soon 🤣 my family used to own ocean-front property and things are tense. Sad to see it go but it will not last.
depends on the area. a lot of modern zoning code prevents leapfrog view obstruction. I see it all the time on the ohio river. the closer the houses get to the bank the shorter they must be
I would like to know more about the differences in foundation, drainage/seepage and ground plane contact considerations - great series idea!
Love this slow takedown of construction details. Please upload as many of these as you want!
Metal intro aside, this is the content I come here for. As a contractor this kind of comparative building practice information makes me wiser, and better able to bring options to my clients. Matt, this is great: get on a plane more often!
Metal intro?
That's not metal, you boomer.
@@firecloud77Literally the Build Show theme music. I understand the branding choice, but.... have you ever listened to a drywall tool add before? Yuck. Taking pride and enjoyment in my work doesn't require a hard rock soundtrack.
Hand building the roof ❤ Your friend is awesome 👏🏻 I totally get it as I prefer ‘traditional’ roof building to trusses.
This guy is a G! People watching should be inspired.
Liking the idea of open web floor trusses to make the mechanicals easier, but would like to see more details about this option in the future.
Im wondering how fast they burn through in a fire - i joists burn through much quicker than dimensional lumber, and killed a few FDNY firefighters. The FDNY cane out with all kinds of rules for using them in construction, like chemical retardant treatment, blocking, etc.
They are really nice to work with but very expensive in my limited experience. The last project of mine that were going to use them ended up backing down after the $30,000 price tag (though note, this was going to be for a very long span for 33' which is about the max length they can go).
In Quebec, Canada it's common to have 1x3 for the ceiling and walls.
Great work. I wish you the best for you and your family. Thank you and take care.
Do you find the 1x3 spacing around there is more commonly 12” or 16”? I see a mix here in New England, but more at 16” than 12”. I think maybe the 12” spacing is sometimes preferred on 24” spaced joists.
@@JamesCusano Almost everything is @16" c/c. Studs, joist, forencing (1×3). Only trusses are @24" c/c.
Love the banter at the start
I saw a house for sale in Alexandria, VA some years ago that had brick exterior walls (not veneer), and the floors were 2x12s on 12" centers with 3/4" planking, no plywood. I'm sure that place will last as long as Monticello.
That steel assembly is a shear frame, designed to take up the wind load discussed earlier. It can also work to hold up floors and roofs. I can post a drawing of one.
I'm still laughing about the Tyvek commercial bashing the ZIP products that ran during your video.
I can point you to neighborhoods in the New Bedford area that used homasote sheathing and particle board claps. Had a summer job in the 80’s re-sheathing in putting on shingles.
And now we know the rest of the story on the strapping, like to see how they pull wire through it, interesting how environment changes building practices... Great Video
He said they just staple it to the joists.
I built a house in the north east for a customer that moved from the south and found a lot of these differences in how they wanted it versus the way we build here. In particular the high ceilings and HVAC in the attic. It is very interesting how different houses are built in different regions out of necessity
My cousin has a Bed and Breakfast Inn on Block Island! That is soo cool to hear about this!
Very interesting. Great video.
Up here in British Columbia,weather's not as drastic as east coast ,however,
I am glad to see my house-reno build framing (15 years old),was almost identical to this project.
Oh finally some NorthEast construction. I assume no central ERV/HVAC ducting in these homes? I’d like to see how they’ll do plumbing and HVAC in this home.
I moved to the Atlanta area from Wisconsin. I was shocked to see that my first house (built in 1978) has 1 inch foam over the studs, then wood siding right over that! Not even foam board, its white expanded polystyrene like you with get in a box with a new tv! Not even a foil on it! Then i bought a nicer house built in 1999. I found out it has OSB for the first 8 feet from the ground then blue foam board above that to the roof with vinyl siding over that. It blows my mind that its ok to do that anywhere.
Being in Wisconsin I do see cheaper new home construction with that cardboard crap still. My buddy is in the middle of his home build and he had to pair back some things he wanted because his home was going to peak near $2 million. Although he did build in a stupid high end HOA community with dumb finishing requirements.
Low cost of living areas tend to have shittier houses to keep them affordable.
When I used to frame in RI on the coast, I asked the engineer why we had to use LVLs as rafters and he said “because they’re heavier and if the house is heavier it’s less likely to blow or float away” 😂
I was honestly kinda shocked when I got to the part of my building code that specifies uplift requirements for walls and I found out that I actually *get credit* for having a wall about the wall to the tune of like 60 plf.
Matt I’d love for you to investigate why New England is like the only place in the US that you can still buy and use plaster. Everywhere else is drywall!
It’s funny seeing “new” construction in RI. My house was built in the 1930’s. Obviously plywood sheathing wasn’t available. We got rough cut boards all over the damn place!
More depends on whether is it spec house or custom. Spec houses are built to MINIMUM code. Of course, unless you know what you are looking at, your expensive house may be built to minimum code as well.
Clean and in order site 👍👍👍
Only for the video 😂
Honestly I feel like this level of build quality should just be standard in all regions.
This is a 15 million dollar house...
The further north you go , the better the framing. A lot of it has to do with legacy training and apprenticeship programs, which is some what laxed in the southern states . If you ask a framer down south, what he did two years ago , The answer could be anything from dishwasher to crossing the Texas border , up north, the answer would be “midway through an apprenticeship program.”
It has more to do with weather and necessity.
@@TheMarkg6 , architectural specifications is architectural specifications. The training and knowledge of a particular construction crew is more to my point. I’d rather have a crew that’s been through an apprenticeship program or Community college program with O.J.T. Then a crew that just had O.J. T. , with employees that may not be sure this is what they want to do for a living (if you make it through a two-year Community college program or A four year apprentice program , the chances are, this is your career path).
Population explosion in the sunbelt occured post WWII with super abundant and cheap electricity.
Cheap energy made-up for a multitude of sins from SoCal to N Virginia D.C. suburbs.
Your apprentice argument is not very true. Union apprenticeship programs for buildings is a 1920s occurrence. Just a means of restricting supply by imposing regulations.
@@boby115 You're right, a lot of these idiots don't follow the engineering and the counties don't do a proper inspection.
Has not been my experience working with framers from Texas, California, Boston, Worcester, Mexico, Honduras and Maine. Usually the crews with experience in inspection-heavy jurisdictions know more. The Boston guys know more than the Worcester guys. The Austin guys know more than the Houston guys. The LA guys know more than the Tahoe guys. Bottom line is framers from strict areas all know more about framing the right way than the guys who worked in more lax jurisdictions where one engineer stamps plans without building officials reviewing prior to permits and an inspector reviewing work as built.
Here in So. Jersey when I mived here whole developments used some kind of coating carboard sheathing. The houses in my development ,build in phases first cape cod second ranchers with basements then 3 different sizes split levels. The ranchers had that carboard siding. You could punch a 9" screw driver through it. The capes and splits gad 1" tar impreagnated cardboar cover ed with asbestos siding. The 1" card board was in because th VA wouldn't mortage a house without insulation. I have more crazy stuff but would take too long to tell.
I love the strapping.
Dam welcome to my state! Always wondered what you would think of our building standards
The stair framing: typically doing those stringers 12" O.C. which would add one more to the runs.
The steel moment frame was passed up - but it looks like it's doing the most work for lateral - especially given the large span.
Wasn't aware of zip sheathing not able to use for shear walls - that's a little suspect to me.
Love seeing some of the differences around the country for framing techniques! Great video!
zip is pretty tough. must be the local code. or maybe the local code (those that write it) is wrongly biased against high grade OSB. anybody that uses regular ply over Advantech for floors is a fool if they really want a solid floor.
Standard zip sheeting is fine for shear walls, but he is using zip-r which has foam insulation bonded to the zip on the warm side. This “stands” the structural part of the zip off the stud too far to get a proper shear rating from the nails. His wall assembly seems like a waste considering he could do a standard zip panel with exterior insulation outside, then strapping, then cladding like Matt favors.
We were in the midwest, but that is how my dad taught me to frame out a ceiling to get a flat plane and not have to hack a bunch of holes for services. Awesome vid.
I've only seen ceiling strapping like that once in Illinois. Since every inch of wire has to be in EMT it makes it much more difficult for the EC to do his rough unless he can do it before the strapping is in place, and that meant the carpentry crew has to come back after the MEP rough to put it all in. Lot's of extra expense, but the results are superior.
Superior because it costs more, they go hand in hand. I am glad I can do a romex run properly and safely on my house and not have to strip everything down doing something absolutely crazy in a remodel.
I live in illinois and have been strapping my house. My 70 year old dad thinks I have lost my mind.
You should come up to nh or maine and do some videos. Where i live the snow load is 80 to 100psf.
How does the ceiling strapping work with fireblocking?
Can someone tell me why they use plywood as opposed to OSB? When I was doing my roof I did some research and discovered that OSB has far greater sheer strength.
Wind mitigation is the key. Usually no gabkes are better for wind.
Hip roofs baby, hip roofs....
I think besides wind zone ratings, its a more get what you pay for scenario, they’re at a custom build house. Go a few miles down the road and look at a tract home in a subdivision. I’m in the south and building my own home, I did a double layer of exterior wall and roof sheeting, offsetting the joints each way. Did it cost me more, sure but, well worth it in my opinion. I also did prefab trusses, designed for the extra load of double sheeting and then I also added additional bracing above and beyond the minimum to meet building codes. Back to tract homes, unfortunately people worry more about appearance and finishes rather than how well it was built. Thank goodness they have to build to at least meet the building code minimums and go through inspections.
What were you concerned about that led you to a double-layer of sheathing? Outside of wind zones and complex shapes, the sheer requirements are pretty minimal: even a single layer of OSB everywhere is well above-code for the typical tract home in my area. The house I grew up in, each story had 2 sheets of OSB in each exterior wall and that was it; the rest was aluminium-faced foam board. That's code minimum and still is!
@@Anytus2007 I wanted the extra strength and durability. I had been on roofs with single ply osb and seen where branches not much bigger than a thumb punch through during storms. Been in storms where pine cones from trees 100 + feet away just pummel the side of the house. I still would leave if a category 4 or 5 hurricane was coming my way. I’ve seen that damage, concrete bunker would be required to stay put for something that strong.
@@joetristen993 Oh yeah that makes a ton of sense with that kind of wind damage, especially on the roof assembly! I should have mentioned that's one thing I've seen more often is a double sheathed roof or a 2 layer roof+over roof.
Ask him what’s a reglet, nice video.
Ceiling strapping is so quick and gives you a super flat ceiling. Million dollar homes in Texas look like waves.😂
Fellow Texan
Did you bounce over with the check from green hill to build this one wade?
In Florida, we "high hat" the floor joist with metal framing to get it perfect level. But only on high end houses. You wont find it in production developments. Go visit Palm Beach Island. You will find it used.
My house in Southern Alabama has 1 by strapping 16 inches on center on the ceiling. However I think it was due to a different reason. I think someone told whomever made the house to put the studs and rafters 24 inches apart, which they did, instead of 24 inches on center. The studs and rafters are 26 inches on center. The strapping allows them to use 4 ft by 8ft sheets of sheetrock without cutting 18 inches off of the end of every sheet. Due to the unplanned strapping, the ceilings are short of 8 feet, and all of the wall sheetrock has had one edge trimmed.
They jus use’n alabama maths all
Texas gets more hurricanes than Rhode Island, you’d think those building codes for wind shear would applicable on the gulf coast too.
Air conditioning is required in Texas. Not so much in New England, so forced HVAC systems are not typical.
Lots of guys walking around!
When you pointed out the hold down at 4:55, for that to be of any use, that should have carried all the way to the roof.
Since they are still hand building/stick framing the trusses, I can only presume their hurricane strapping is not complete and at some point, that will carry all the way up to the roof.
It does carry all the way to the roof. They are fastened to posts that are nailed together per the engineers specs, and the plywood bridges the plates holding the first and second floor together. That’s the reason we don’t just start with a full 4’ wide sheet at the bottom of the wall.
@@CMCraftsman either you are mistaken, or we are not saying/talking about the same thing. I mentioned 4:55, faster forward to 5:10. Screenshot it. And then review it in your gallery so you can blow it up.
The top plate is not strapped to the stud that that hold down is connected to.
In my original comment, the point I am making is that it needs to be continuous from the foundation to the roof.
It could be quite possible their codes are different there than South Florida. But this right here would not pass framing inspection down here. Additionally, all of the floor joists on the bearing walls need to be tied down.
They’re literally building to the specs set out by their structural engineers
This anchor is used to hold the house to the foundation. I would bet the roof system gets hurricane straps to keep it in place.
@@BrianBaldridgeC The reason they don't need more metal strapping is because the rest of the wall is wildly over-built to provide that same function. It may not LOOK like it meets code, but clearly they paid a zillion dollars for an engineer to design it and provide written proof that it does indeed meet code requirements
Can’t help but wonder if the higher ceilings down south help with the cooling load, allowing for the warm air to rise higher?
Yes, but then in the winter time, where it DOES get down to the 30s to 40s the heat rises in those tall rooms and you either have a cold room where the people are, have to push more heat into the house (which can rise up to a second floor making it unbearably hot) or have lots of circulation like ceiling fans or ducted air trying to mix the hot and cold air in the house.
Yeah, idk if would choose ceiling/floor minisplits throughout and trusses, but yeah trying to run hvac duct through trusses in a large custom home is an absolute nightmare.
The framing is neat, but it'd also be cool to know if they use different air sealing details up in the Northeast.
I think the air sealing is generally the same, and has the same goals, the biggest difference is just with regards to vapor control and where you are drying towards.
Codes (IECC) require a continuous layer of insulation outside of the stud framing. As Wade notes, Zip-R sheathing does not create the required diaphragm required to combat wind loads because they rely on the shear of the fasteners, in most cases, screws.
This is typical for new construction. Where it does not necessarily apply is on additions. In some cases, the existing house is so old and drafty that it makes no sense to make the addition meet the energy code. Or, the addition is such that that the existing structure provides enough shear that the Zip-R sheathing can be used without the additional plywood layer.
And remember, every roof is like an airplane wing - it wants to literally lift off the house when a strong wind blows across it.
It's worse in California, where seismic design also must be accounted for. I've had engineers tell me that I can't have a door where I put it.
North Carolina we screw drywall right to the joist. Miss hanging sheetrock in Rhode Island. Im actually from Warwick, My brother does plastering out of Charleston
Some in Quebec still use tentest as a sheathing material basically tarred cardboard 😬
Does moisture have an effect between the osb and zip being fastened over it?
From what I remember the zip system is also the moisture block which is why you don't need house wrapp, so I would assume there is no issue.
NE custom framing isn’t all that different than Minnesota. Only major differences I can pick out are MN uses floor joists for mechanical, roofs are almost always trusses with some hand framing mixed in. As in all the common roof lines we would fly trusses, any swoops or more complex stuff would be hand framed. Still mostly just use 3/4 T&G for subfloor (but most the multi million dollar custom homes have a self leveler poured over the subfloor anyways). And in high end custom homes the entire house is framing in “Timberstrand” or some other engineered studs.
Best thing about that strapping on the ceiling is that it gives mice full access to the space. They aren't confined to the space between the joists. Ask me how I know.
I knew a gal with recessed cans...
That was my sister
I am original from Yankee County. I noticed here in Texas that when you do have a wooden floor system on the first floor, the framers don't understand that the sheathing should start at the bottom of the joist to connect the wall to floor framing. I have seen the sheathing starting at the bottom plate and a piece the height of the joist nailed to floor joist to pack it ot for siding. These guys are use to concrete slabs and the sheathing starting at the slab/bottom plate. Can't teach an old dog new tricks!
That's not an oversight or a lack of understanding; it's intentional both to frame faster and a holdover from shrinkage concerns in the 90s. The bottom plate is already required to be nailed to the continuous rim joist through the subfloor, so the wall is already connected to the floor framing. There was a period in the 90s where builders were being told to *not* connect the sheathing to the mudsill due to shrinkage of the dimensional lumber possibly causing the sheathing to carry the vertical load of the wall. They are probably sheathing and housewrapping the walls on the deck before they are stood up and then doing the fill-in so that do everything on the deck, avoiding any ladder work because its faster.
Man so all thing being equal a house on east coast is potentially double the house from down south due to the extras. That’s wild I live in Canada so it gets even colder up here
Would tstuds have been a more cost effective alternative to twin-stud construction?
Any consideration of using ICF's?
Curious if house was insulated with closed cell foam if that would suffice the sheer strength loss using zip R sheathing alone?
I would say no living on the water
all homes should be built like this - if I had to build a home, that's what I'd do - double to code. Well done! Humanity didn't spend a million years perfecting Inside to let some external thing interfere.
Im in MO and built a 2,300sf ICF house with a light deck concrete roof 2020. My entire house is an EF5 rated above ground storm shelter (excluding doors/windows) Additionally my home is all electric w/monthly average usage about 500KwH. I rarely use the AC/Heat as the whole home dehumidifier keeps the temperature perfect. My home took 2 months from ground breaking to the day i moved in. The ICF and concrete materials cost about 5% more than traditional 2x6 w/OSB and spray foam insulation BUT ended up costing 2% less once construction labor was factored in. Seeing this home’s construction looks so wasteful and time consuming and the end product will be far less superior than my home. I just don’t get it.
If you do double wall studs for the shear strength would it not make sense to rotate the second one 90°?
Interesting question. Would like to hear from an engineer.
Where is this project?
Wouldn't diagonal-cut 2x4 or 2x6 pieces in between the studs be better and cheaper for shear strength compared to an extra layer of plywood all around?
Diagonal bracing with single elements doesn't provide the diaphragm action of properly fastened plywood shear Walls.
Interesting though older homes in the N.E. exterior sheathing was 1×6 diagonal with 2 nails each board to studs, add to that lath and finish on the interior adds strength, including interior shear Walls.
I have personally witnessed a doser trying to take down a large older home - literally half of the first floor was gone, but didn't budge. Some old framing ain't bad.
A few things you didn't cover on the strapping: 1) the price is not that much, so you can even go to as much as 12" on center to really make sure you cover both anti-twist of the joists and also to have that much more to screw drywall to.. I am not sure what code is around the country, but I feel it should be 5/8ths drywall for ALL ceilings. Both for a consistent flow and strength and also for fire retardants. As for the cardboard used for sheer walls, YES,,, our first home in Tampa Bay used that garbage. It was built in 1984'. I nearly died when I saw it!!! It was very thin cardboard backed insul-board with chicken wire and stucco. The paint was probably the most substantial part!! I have owned 3 homes in Tampa Bay and all had 3/8ths drywall on the ceilings.. So when you come to my house, you can see the ocean waves.. Just look up!! Sickening...
Florida fire code is 5/8th in the ceiling I believe. Sounds like lawsuits should have put the builder out of business. Sad to think an inspector signed off on that.
@@MadRat70 I do believe you are correct, but I do not know when that became minimum code. I built a shop at my last house. I used all 5/8ths drywall as I wanted to make sure I could do all kinds of work in there without worry. I believe it should be minimum code for all homes. Not only on ceilings. Especially garages.....
5/8ths Type X is only typical on commercial projects here. You will see it in residences, but more often you will see 1/2" everywhere. I think I've only seen 3/8ths in a mobile home. At least at the places I shop, getting 1/4 and 3/8ths is actually more expensive than 1/2"; I guess they do so much less volume they need the higher margin.
I’m a plumber not a framer but I grew up with a framer. They used to put either 1x4s or like 3/8 or 1/2 x 4 steel diagonally in notched studs to give it shear strength. Is there a reason not to do this. I understand if you use sheathing because it doubles as house wrap and sometimes insulation. But in this case, if you have to use extra shear then why not strengthen in the walls and then use only zip. If the methods i mentioned are outdated can anyone tell my why.
The plywood provides substantially more strength than let in bracing.
@@suspicionofdeceit that makes sense as it’s very strong on the flat and attaches many time to every stud
That method started with the diagonal braces being made of wood, then sometimes they became steel. It is still code approved in many circumstances. But its actually a pretty crappy method of providing shear strength. It just isn't very strong. The thing about bracing is that when your wall is made out of a bunch of pieces nailed together, it doesn't really matter what the material of the brace is because whatever you use to connect it to the wall will fail long before you actually rip the brace in half. The diagonal steel only provides a few hundred pounds of shear strength because the braces are fastened to the studs with a single nail in each stud. Once you apply more than a couple hundred pounds, a single nail will just pull through a stud and it won't hurt you brace very much, but the wall will fall down.
The plywood is way stronger because they are nailing like every 3 inches into the stud. If you try to shear the wall top and bottom, the plywood isn't pushing on 1 nail in a stud, it is pushing on like 40 and they all work together.
@@Anytus2007 I believe you that the method isn’t very good but you have this bracing method all wrong. You think heavy steel was just held on by a nail. There set into the studs so all the force isn’t on a single mail. In fact the mail would never have any sheer force on it at all.
I avoid trusses like the plague....Trusses will fail in fire situations... the metal plate bonds will bend and warp in fire conditions... ie... 15 minutes vs hours before your roof caves in.
Stick framing is much stronger and far better for fire safety.
Around here... try getting a fireman to enter a burning building with trusses... ain't gonna happen....
In Chicago the Fire department policy on factory buildings is not to enter any trussed building and in particular those with wooden Bow trusses I. E. the ones that look like upside down bowls. Too many firefighters dying years ago when the trusses failed.
I spent a lot of my childhood in New England, but I live in Chicago now. In the city of Chicago, new high end homes definitely have pre-fab roof trusses. I have mixed feelings on that. I am not certain that the mending plates will hold up for a hundred years in all cases -- especially if you get some moisture and expansion+contraction of wood at some point. I think we just don't know. The trusses definitely do result in taller floors and higher staircases. You end up wasting a lot of space. I understand that it makes it easier to run mechanicals, which is indeed a benefit.
One thing that I don't love about New England is that you can simply staple wire runs in ceilings and floors. In Chicago, you have to run wires in conduit. I do think that this is safer and cleaner. It's obviously more labor-intensive and expensive, but I like knowing that behind my drywall my wires are running in conduit.
I'd be curious to know what kind of insulation this home will have in addition to the zip. Will they use a mineral wool batting or fiberglass batting in the wall cavities? Will they spray the insides of the wall cavities? My family members who still live in New England live in older homes that mostly have fiberglass batting insulation. I've helped family members do some very small repairs and remodeling work. I don't know what newer high-end homes in New England are doing for insulation. I would probably just use mineral wool batting in a home like this., but if I were going to do that, I'd frame with 2x6s not 2x4s.
Finally, even if I were going to use furring strips like this for my ceiling, I think it would still be a good idea to use some kind of blocking or bridging to stiffen my floor joists. I've lived in very old homes over the years -- some that are > 150 years old. Over time, floors become creaky and uneven. I think it makes a lot of sense to lock joists together with blocking or bridging when you build to reduce issues with creaky or uneven floors in the future. I would do it if I were building a home from scratch.
Who the heck cares if a men's plate last 200 years?
Lol
You guys and your fantasies of building 200+ year houses. Clownish.
Your family won't want to live there when the area is ghetto central.
Doubt me.....just look at the formerly top tier houses and neighborhoods of Philadelphia, Detroit, Pittsburgh Cleveland. They're burned out and turned into squats.
How does stapling Romex to the bottom of the kitchen ceiling joist pass code? Seems like there is a good chance the drywallers could easily run a screw into the wire that is only 3/4" under the drywall.
It shouldn't pass code. NEC 300.4 (D) says you need 1 1/4".
Only thing that could generally go there would be 12v or other low voltage / comm. But, no, would not recommend putting anything there under the joists in the strap void space.
I wouldn't want to run a screw through low voltage or communication wires either. Who wants to do a repair on something that can easily be avoided?@@Vazzini42
Would love for Wayne to build me a house in Pac NW like this. I do not think we have any builders with this skill set?
Fact is that most of the southern framers, (except for the northern transplants ) are clueless about using cut rafters for framing.
Downside to strapping is it lets critter travel across an entire ceiling. If critters can do it so can fire. Regular ceiling assembly, each ceiling joist bay is isolated by 3/4 ply on top and 1/2" sheetrock below.
With a skilled worker, bundle of cedar shims, laser and strapping you can get an incredibly flat ceiling that would even make a sheetrocker want do their best work.
Roof structures in the NE are built for snow loads and insulation depth. This is a non-issue in the South.
Everyone can agree on hurricane ties.
Its the ridiculous need for 18 gauge IMHO why they are frowned on by so many. Whoever decided 18 gauge was the only appropriate strap was an idiot. 24 gauge may not be engineered as well, but its a ridiculous effort to tear 24 gauge. Your 2x4 will break before an inch wide strip of 24 gauge will tear or snap. Its also cheap and doesn't require pre-drilling for use as strap material. You can afford to do quite a few more straps on a house using the 24 gauge over the 18 gauge. Hell, even 22 gauge would be overkill, but it too doesn't require pre-drilling. Once you get to 18 gauge you have to pre-punch holes because it has micro-cracks when you drill through it. Nobody in the building code industry wants this stuff to be affordable.
maybe this waant meant or me. I am not talking about gauge of materials only strapping or i am mis-understanding you.@@MadRat70
You build different in different places. For example here in sweden we have run conduit for electric for over 70 years. Means it's a lot easier to re do the electric. We also have one or two ground breakers (you run a separate for fridge/freezer, they usually leak a lot to the ground). Thus if anything leaks to ground the power is shut of (execpt fridge/freezer, you could just as easily run a separate one for heating). Also on the inside we always use plywood under the drywall. Thus we don't need to find studs to hang a TV or anything heavy.
Building in such coastal zones with many storms becoming more energy charged along with rising sea level begs the question will many people even want a location like that in the coming decades no matter how well built it is? I guess the hope here is to stay standing even if the region itself becomes more challenging and loses more homes in general.
We build them way better up north! I'm from Massachusetts and now live in NC and it's shady as hell how they throw stuff together in the south at least here i don't know about other southern states. If i end up staying in the south i will definitely build my place how i did it up north. I framed in all of New England NY NC FL NM and California and it's definitely interesting to see how everyone does things differently.
I have been working on homes in the north east for 40 years, engineers are insane. 100 year old homes on the water with main beams cut in half to put in pluming have made it through countless hurricanes, but all of the sudden we need certain types of nails at certain spacing. All these laminate beams make it almost impossible to install plumbing. Its god damn ridiculous
People want new homes with less walls and open floor plans now, and something must pay the price for that engineering
@@serenasmith6412 im guessing you’re an engineer, if you are then you shouldn’t comment if you’re not a structural engineer. If you are then you know how ridiculous all this steel and laminate beams are. I say anyone designing a home should be a licensed plumber also so i dont have to fix all thier mistakes.
I work in the Hamptons and tend to agree. Simpson co. pushed for a lot of the regulations for strapping. Plenty of homes survived the hurricane of 38’. I haven’t seen any blow away in 30 years and 3 hurricanes. There is more money to be made with all this engineered lumber and strapping. Water from flooding does most of the damage. What we have really done is priced the middle class out from building a new home up here. The new strict energy codes are the last nail in the coffin. How will normal people afford 4-5 hundred a foot to meet code.
I've always liked the strapping the ability to fasten the sheetrock properly is much better
Maybe another factor is that drywall in New England is typically smooth textured, so imperfections are a lot easier to see.
I would like to know in the back of you guys there was three separate headers three separate doorways and a lot of King studs sandwich together my question is why didn't the engineering put a header all the way straight across instead of three separate it doesn't make sense to me
So do they fire block their furred down ceiling, I didn't see anything there to keep fire from moving all along that 3/4" gap across the whole ceiling ?
The strapping butts to the top plates so typically we do no further fire stopping in the horizontal plane. We concentrate on fire stopping the vertical voids as that is where the stack effect happens.
The HVAC contractor does their rough in before the strapping goes on. It's not a big deal. Same with insulation in joist bays, plumbing rough ins, and in-floor hydronic heat tubing that is set against the bottom of the subfloor. All of this is installed before the strapping is.
Biggest problem with homes I notice when I moved to the SE, these goddamn trusses. There no place to store stuff and getting around an attic is damn near impossible. Stick built in the NE style would solve a bunch of issues down here.
So high wind areas have higher building standards than low wind areas. Amazing would have never figured that out. Florida and Savannah may even have higher standards than Dallas.
They don't understand what hold downs are for.
This could explain why i couldnt find any of their products to buy recently...
Tradition is great, but cost/time trusses are the way to go
Wait, not everyone straps a ceiling? I need to get out more.
The level of detail required on this framing is at the point where it seems that they should have gone with Icf.
Half inch cdx PLUS zipR is required, WOW. You'd think by having the zip R that at least the inner layer wouldn't need to be so beefy.
Why not icf with the winds as you get. the double sheathing is costly.
Why not use concrete or ICF at least for the first floor?
The electrician cannot just staple his romex to the bottom of the floor joists because of the strapping. He would have to run EMT as there isnt a 1.25" space from the stud (joist) edge. Maine Master electrician here.
I'd like to see that house when it's complete
Coming from east coast to Tennessee can say East coast buildings are build to hold double the weight an wind loads as they build in Tennessee