As a tip to new owners, the connectors by design use a grip type method of holding the tubing in place which is why you must slide down that plastic release to get the tubing out. Look closely inside the connector (after tubing is removed), to see the little metal "claws" that grip. Knowing the nozzle gets extremely hot when printing and that the connector is metal, it makes sense that plastic tubing would eventually look like you've demonstrated at the 2:00 mark. Those little grip claws eventually work their way into plastic via heat and friction. Checking these connections periodically and replacing plastic tubing is a part of good standard preventative maintenance. I'm not taking away from this kit, as I bought one almost immediately after purchasing my Ender 3 Pro, but now realize I didn't need to install this just yet since I have not used mine enough to have that kind of wear on my stock tubing. Your video shows us how easy it is to check though. Thank you.
Ordered Capricorn and decided to install this morning. 1st thing, load this video. Had it in and running great in literally 10 minutes. CHEP's videos are the only ones I go to. THANKS Yet again Chuck!
Turning the fitting with brand new tube inserted is a good way to accelerate the problem you just tried to solve. It's best to use the nozzle as the compression agent.
Hi. Since capricorn tubing has slightly thinner inner dia, there is smaller play of filement inside. That means you could lower down retraction. Lowering down retraction means less prounanced seam, faster print and lower chances for a clog. In other words you get possibly closest to direct drive extruder advantages without giving away high acceleration and jerk (low bowden style mass). And that is the real added value of replacing ptfe tubing to capricorn.
That's a neat little trick for installing the PTFE tube in the hot end. I did my Capricorn swap when my printer was about a month old, the only thing I did differently was I loosened the nozzle before installing the tubing and then tightened up the nozzle to the PTFE tube.
Thanks for the help! Took apart my whole hot end trying to figure out why I was under-extruding. My tube had some resistance too, I’m looking forward to doing a test bridge that looks like yours!
Great share - watching what you did let me replace mine zip-zap. I wasn't familiar with those couplings - helped to see you deal with it first. My Ender is virtually brand new but while I ordered a few upgrades I ordered the Capricorn upgrade while I was at it. I am loving my Ender. I have a lot of time on Makerbot z18 (absolute piece of junk, only nightmares trying to get good prints off that) and the Replicator+. The prints off the Ender right out of the box were far better, higher resolution. Update - I found trimming the PTFE tubing very square cannot be overstated. The method of back off the coupling 3/4 turn and then cinching down once the tubing is inserted well - same thing, the importance can't be overstated. Helped a buddy who started having problems. Though it was just a bed leveling problem but he continued to have skipping problems throughout a print. I guided him through retrimming the PTFE tube using a little purpose-designed miter box for a box cutter blade. Looks like this solved the problem - Thanks, again.
Coupling near the extrudrer in my Ender 3 Pro after like 9 months of printing stopped holding the ptfe tube well. I am thinking of upgrading my printer with Capricorn, and your tutorial will help me if I will install it. Big thanks Chuck!
maybe I'm the only one that does this, but when I'm replacing bowden tubing, I usually remove the nozzle and run the tubing through the hotend and pull it all the way through. Usually it picks up some old burnt filament that shouldn't be there and cleans out the hotend.
I upgraded mine to a black ptfe tube from trianglelab, when I had to replace my hotend (failed experiment with ABS...) I ordered some all metal heatbreaks for the stock extruder which should convert it to all metal. I hope my plan goes well, so I can print ABS without worrying about degrading my nice new tube if I ever want to
Wow, just recently I encountered the same exact problem. I thought that it was a bad filament but when I changed the nozzle and tried to put the filament into the hotend I noticed the blockage you described. Good that I noticed it now, before I ordered a new extruder which I also suspected to be faulty. A bit of nerves and money saved.
The clips you mention more importantly prevent play in the push fitting. This is particularly relevant at the extruder end. If the hotend it done as you recommended it will lock the PTFE tube in place.
Latest iterations of the Ender 3 include a rather good tube that's really snug around the 1.75 mm filament. I'd say as good as the Capricorn one. At least when it comes to tolerances. Dunno about the overall quality though, or how well it holds up over time. Older Ender 3's had a "sloppier" tube.
I have a brand new Ender 3D Pro that I got at Microcenter last month. If it's an upgrade over historical tube, I can't say, but I know I didn't have any slop that I heard about - it moving around in the couplings. So given that however, I replaced with the capricorn tube because it came with the bed spring upgrade I got off Amazon. I'm getting a better print right away - no glooping, or hair on something I tried to print 5 minutes before the change. That could also be a result of the tube being clogged, but I don't see one...
Ahhhhhhhh. You let go of the filament end on the spool. Your spool is now a tangled unusable mess........... ;-) Thanks chuck. Does Capricorn really have a higher heat rating? I have seen internet talk where is does not.
The tubes are always too long out of the factory. The shorter, the better. The limit is you don't want the tube to drag the printhead. Short tubes reduces the retractation ratio, and allows flexible filaments with similar print profiles than with direct drive feeders.
Thanks for the info I have been using stock Bowden ptfe for 8+ months with no problem but recently I got a jam in the hot end part of the ptfe tube so I ordered a Capricorn ptfe and new couples so I hope this helps improve
Please don't turn/tighten the couplings if the PTFE tube is still inside, otherwise he teeth of the coupling basically cut into the tube! This then creates a grove in the PTFE which also makes it impossible to remove it from the coupler. You mentioned that the new coupler is better than the old ones because you can now easily remove the tube after it was inserted which actually works with the stock ones, too, IF the tube is in fine condition.
The head moving back and forth actually causes the tube to twist slightly in the coupling. 100’s of hours printing causes most of that damage not the little bit I tightened.
@@FilamentFriday the coupler that you screwed in the extruder gear mount could be damaged that way, the best thing is to first screw it in then put the PTFE, and if you need to remove it then first remove PTFE then unscrew the coupler (best tip to not destroy the PTFE is to first push the ptfe tube inside of the coupler, then pressing the plastic thing to remove the tube and then removing the tube, that's the way to cause the least damage
Hey CHEP, I noticed everyone likes to mention the metal teeth as a part of any good coupling; however, on the ender 3 that I just recently purchased a few weeks ago the hot end coupler now has metal teeth. Something that apparently wasn't included a year or so ago. Just something I noticed because a lot of people seem to be giving the coupling a bad rep. Maybe the newer ones aren't so bad?
I was having problems with filament breaking in the extruder. The PTFE tube was cracked exactly where you pointed out at the coupling at the hot end. I performed the maintenance in this video and the problem is solved. Thanks Chep! 😀
When I assemble a new printer, this is one of the items that gets installed from day one. I have zero experience with the provided PTFE and want to keep it that way.
Checked my tube and sure enough is wasn't pushed all the way down. Reseated and noticed wear starting on stock tube where the coupling is. Anyway, long story short, no more stringing, ordered the Capricorn tubing and cutter!
Screwing the coupling in/out repeatedly with the tube still through it is probably what caused it to chew through the tube. Never do that, always pull the tube out first! (Even while it's much more difficult at times. But the fix with short separate tube piece in the hotend helps immensely with easier serviceability, including this issue).
@@FilamentFriday I'd say it had a play in it, but on printers where you never create the groove all around the tube in the first place it doesn't happen like this, or way slower, as the coupler grips the tube firm with it's teeth. All it takes is screwing it in with the tube through once or twice while servicing for a groove to appear, which will massively speed up this kind of damage during normal operation.
@@Tomaskomyou have no idea how many hours tonight I was trying to figure out my problem and you nailed it. Thank you both CHEP for pointing it out on the video (took forever to find this) and for you Thomaskom for noting the exact issue I was having. Filament would not extrude because it was so tight/cutoff at the coupler and not tightening with tube inserted fixed my issue. Lots of tube wasted but still have slack.
Upgrading your Bowden system may possibly be the best cost to performance increase ratio of all DIY mods. Taking into account the ease of the procedure, it most definitely is to me.
It just occurred to me that you leave the upper connector loose to feed the filament. Duh. I continually struggle to get the filament past that point. Sometimes the simplest things are exceptionally helpful. Thanks.
Personally ive never had that problem and instead cut the filament on an angle, then you have a much smaller point to get into the tube and it makes feeding it in much easier.
Great stuff, have the same kit! It was a nice addition to the Ender3 and certainly something everyone should consider when looking at things that can be improved from the base config.
This was reall helpful cuz im new to 3d printing and ive replaced my hot end and then my PTFE locks werw broke so yeah and now i can begin printing again
Kept getting the same problem until I changed over to Capricorn tubing. The heat from the hot end was distorting the tube and shrinking it onto the filament
Hi. I was watching a lot tube while prinntig. The tube is cut not because one turns thw coupling. It happens seldom (usually). I have made a mark on a tube just above the coupler on the hot end. When the carriage moves along X axis the tube rotate inside the cupler. It is due the geometry of the tubing path, stiffness and the way all thing is assembled. Due this back and forward rotation sharp coupling teeths cut through the tube. For sure Chep srew pritable coupling or other one locking the tube axially would be recomended. Best regards!
I had stock PTFE tube issues printing nylon on my CR10 with stock hot end assembly . Switched to capricorn and no more problems. It seems to handle the temp.
Does it work well with super cheap filament that may not always be exactly the right size, though? I'm worried about upgrades that are going to make it so I can't keep using my cheapo filament.
I wanna do this to my recently purchased CR10 even though my PTFE tubing is still fine. But after reading several posts in this section, I'm not sure I'd want to.
Hi Chep. I followed your instructions and I changed for a Capricorn Tubing after mine was damaged. The machine was working very well with no problems before the change. But now, I have under extrusion and my piece is coming apart. Do you have any ideas? Thx
Thanks for the guidance! Great as always. Question: I’m printing with white PLA, and my prints are now coming out with a very noticeable blue tinge… is that normal for Capricorn tubing? And if so… will it go?
I had under extrusion issues and got week prints after only one good print. I got my Ender 3 last week and things kind of went downhill. I opened up my extruder and it was burnt at the end so I ordered a new coupling and Capicorn PTFE tube. Will this work?
Hi Chep now I have asked the same question twice in this thread without you answering, despite the fact that you have answered other questions as a silent one after I asked mine, it wonders me a bit because you have been in wire
I view comments from a central screen that feeds me lots of questions per day from the 100’s of videos I’ve released and get watched daily. So occasionally I miss a few. So What’s the question? I don’t see it when I scroll thru that particular video.
Does the length of the bowden tube effect retraction? I ended up just leaving the entire tube as is without cutting it because I had to modify where the roll is on my ender 5 to fit it into an enclosure and I had no measurements. Should I go back and cut it to correct length to stop my stringing?
If you don't have a tube cutter, you can use a brand new razor blade ($1 for 5 pack at home depot). DON'T saw, just slowly slice directly down with firm pressure. You need a really good straight cut if you want it to fit perfectly with no gaps. Took me 10 tries but eventually worked lol.
Thank you for this video! I had a printer breakdown just when my son wanted parts for his physics project (mousetrap car). It turned out that it was a massive blockage in the original ptfe tube. There was also so brown grease at the nozzle end of the tube? I had actually bought a replacement and never installed it. The video directions got us going and back on track. Thanks again!
I just did this to my ender 3 and now the nozzle leaks filament before i start printing. Any ideas to what i did wrong. I figured if i didn't get the tube all the way down it would be clogging before the nozzle.
hi, I'm writing to you from Italy to ask you kindly to give me a link to find the CAPRICORN Red like the one you have in the video. unfortunately I find only the blue one ... and I'm going crazy because I really like what you use in the video. I thank you in advance and I congratulate you from Italy for the excellent videos and thanks to that for your magic 0.20 profile that I now use for every print .. great
I have recently tried to upgrade my Ender 3 stock springs with some yellow springs, which is available now in Amazon India. Seller is providing 3 options for size. 25 mm, 20 mm and 15mm in length. I went ahead with 25 mm and soon realized that 25 mm is loo long for Ender 3 and I replaces with 20 mm. 20 mm was 1 mm longer when fully compressed and I need to adjust the Z-limit switch approx 1 mm higher. Then I tried 15 mm one and it was just fit as needed. My question if the 15 mm is good enough and if the shorter length has any potential performance issue as compared with the 20 mm one? Actually I don't want to adjust my Z-limit switch and want to go with its default position.
Not sure but clipping off the knob on the Z stop switch is common and gives you more control. I would not be afraid to adjust the Z stop to make it work.
I've been a Capricorn fan since they began selling PTFE tubing. My advice is to use Capricorn from day 1 and throw away the cheap tubing that comes with the Ender 3.
I was having this same issue he described along with the extruder motor clicking because it was getting jammed up. bought a new hot end with the capricorn tubing for $20 on amazon and its all good now. The kit come with the stock tubing and the capricorn but I dont think this capricorn is needed. the stock worked fine until 2 years of printing wore it out.
I've changed mine to Capricorn on Ender 3 and the retraction magic of 6 mm per 25mm/s is not working anymore. Many stringing now. Do you have updated your parameters after changing to Capricorn ? I understand that is tighter so I need to change retraction but its very hard to find the right parameters... thanks !
@@FilamentFriday Chuck, talking to others they told be that capricorn is tighter so you need less mm but faster retraction. With 5mm with 50mm/s I got almost no string... 97-98% perfect. Just sharing. Tks.
I've redone this multiple time even buying more tubbing to redo the cut. Every time what I'm assuming is a gap fills the hotend with plastics and causes crazy amounts of stringing. Am I doing something wrong? Could a new hotend help?
Man, for the life of me, I can't get the capricorn ptfe to fit deep enough into the hot end, on my cr10 or my ender 3. I'm a bit baffled, by all means it should fit, but it simply just won't go far enough in.
Tried DD (or at least short bowden). Didn't improve my retraction and made more work disassembling the extruder and hotend assembly to fix filament jams.
@@mvanzante I've seen most successful DD printers use geared extruders, so maybe you should have just gone all in on getting rid of anything bowden? I still have a bowden setup so I don't know.
With the extruder you bought there is a black plastic part, you put that part in the hole. It works exactly like a traditional coupling you push on in to insert the ptfe and when it’s done you pull it and you put the blue plastic to secure the tube
I’m looking to try out TPU filament. Heard it’s very soft and may retract a lot. Would the stiffness of Capricorn tubing be stiff enough to handle that filament?
Great ! Now that you have such a smoother ptfe, shouldn't you drive a test with TPU that usually require direct drive hotend ? Big thanks for you video Dude..
Thanks Chuck for this helpful video. I do have some Capricorn tubing I purchased for my Anet A8 but I'm still using the PTFE tubing that came with my E3V6 clone because I converted my A8 to Bowden Drive. Now you have me thinking because I tried printing an electronics case for my A8 and it was jamming not printing past a certain height. So I ended up printing it on my Ender3. But my reason for my comment is to request a favor. If you can make a video on how to reset the X-axis home position on the A8. The original home position of the hotend with the direct drive is just off the hotbed. Now with the Bowden hotend the new position sits farther to the right making the center of the print area off to the right. This makes printing larger items that sometimes go off the right side of the hotbed. This would be a big help. Thank You in advance. Frank M.
You just fixed a problem I had for MONTHS that I thought was unsolvable since I’m very new to 3D printing, thank you so much!
That bridge!! Holy smokes.
As a tip to new owners, the connectors by design use a grip type method of holding the tubing in place which is why you must slide down that plastic release to get the tubing out. Look closely inside the connector (after tubing is removed), to see the little metal "claws" that grip. Knowing the nozzle gets extremely hot when printing and that the connector is metal, it makes sense that plastic tubing would eventually look like you've demonstrated at the 2:00 mark. Those little grip claws eventually work their way into plastic via heat and friction. Checking these connections periodically and replacing plastic tubing is a part of good standard preventative maintenance. I'm not taking away from this kit, as I bought one almost immediately after purchasing my Ender 3 Pro, but now realize I didn't need to install this just yet since I have not used mine enough to have that kind of wear on my stock tubing. Your video shows us how easy it is to check though. Thank you.
Ordered Capricorn and decided to install this morning. 1st thing, load this video. Had it in and running great in literally 10 minutes. CHEP's videos are the only ones I go to. THANKS Yet again Chuck!
Turning the fitting with brand new tube inserted is a good way to accelerate the problem you just tried to solve. It's best to use the nozzle as the compression agent.
Hi. Since capricorn tubing has slightly thinner inner dia, there is smaller play of filement inside. That means you could lower down retraction. Lowering down retraction means less prounanced seam, faster print and lower chances for a clog. In other words you get possibly closest to direct drive extruder advantages without giving away high acceleration and jerk (low bowden style mass). And that is the real added value of replacing ptfe tubing to capricorn.
That's a neat little trick for installing the PTFE tube in the hot end. I did my Capricorn swap when my printer was about a month old, the only thing I did differently was I loosened the nozzle before installing the tubing and then tightened up the nozzle to the PTFE tube.
Thanks the internet for guys like you.
Thanks for the help! Took apart my whole hot end trying to figure out why I was under-extruding. My tube had some resistance too, I’m looking forward to doing a test bridge that looks like yours!
I already got Capricorn PTFE on the way. And I haven't even been home to open my Ender 3 yet.
I did the same exact thing, haven't even assembled and I just got it
Thanks man, Helped alot bought a 2nd printer had to replace the Tubing and this video Showed me exactly what i was doing.
Great share - watching what you did let me replace mine zip-zap. I wasn't familiar with those couplings - helped to see you deal with it first. My Ender is virtually brand new but while I ordered a few upgrades I ordered the Capricorn upgrade while I was at it. I am loving my Ender. I have a lot of time on Makerbot z18 (absolute piece of junk, only nightmares trying to get good prints off that) and the Replicator+. The prints off the Ender right out of the box were far better, higher resolution.
Update - I found trimming the PTFE tubing very square cannot be overstated. The method of back off the coupling 3/4 turn and then cinching down once the tubing is inserted well - same thing, the importance can't be overstated. Helped a buddy who started having problems. Though it was just a bed leveling problem but he continued to have skipping problems throughout a print. I guided him through retrimming the PTFE tube using a little purpose-designed miter box for a box cutter blade. Looks like this solved the problem - Thanks, again.
again your video saved me from a headache. just got the tube replaced and my first print is coming out awesome. thank you!
Coupling near the extrudrer in my Ender 3 Pro after like 9 months of printing stopped holding the ptfe tube well. I am thinking of upgrading my printer with Capricorn, and your tutorial will help me if I will install it. Big thanks Chuck!
Thank you - this fixed my 'knocking' issue without having to change the nozzle.
maybe I'm the only one that does this, but when I'm replacing bowden tubing, I usually remove the nozzle and run the tubing through the hotend and pull it all the way through. Usually it picks up some old burnt filament that shouldn't be there and cleans out the hotend.
have a nice thankgiving
Thank you for posting this video. I could not figure out why my nozzle was extruding evenly until I found the clog in the tube!
I upgraded mine to a black ptfe tube from trianglelab, when I had to replace my hotend (failed experiment with ABS...) I ordered some all metal heatbreaks for the stock extruder which should convert it to all metal. I hope my plan goes well, so I can print ABS without worrying about degrading my nice new tube if I ever want to
btw, I just noticed I haven't given you an abo yet. Fixed that problem of course ;)
Wow, just recently I encountered the same exact problem. I thought that it was a bad filament but when I changed the nozzle and tried to put the filament into the hotend I noticed the blockage you described. Good that I noticed it now, before I ordered a new extruder which I also suspected to be faulty. A bit of nerves and money saved.
The clips you mention more importantly prevent play in the push fitting. This is particularly relevant at the extruder end. If the hotend it done as you recommended it will lock the PTFE tube in place.
Latest iterations of the Ender 3 include a rather good tube that's really snug around the 1.75 mm filament. I'd say as good as the Capricorn one. At least when it comes to tolerances. Dunno about the overall quality though, or how well it holds up over time. Older Ender 3's had a "sloppier" tube.
I have a brand new Ender 3D Pro that I got at Microcenter last month. If it's an upgrade over historical tube, I can't say, but I know I didn't have any slop that I heard about - it moving around in the couplings. So given that however, I replaced with the capricorn tube because it came with the bed spring upgrade I got off Amazon. I'm getting a better print right away - no glooping, or hair on something I tried to print 5 minutes before the change. That could also be a result of the tube being clogged, but I don't see one...
Having trouble with that slippery PTFE? Try using a wide rubber band to grip it with.
Thank you! Really love your videos, so easy to understand!
Ahhhhhhhh. You let go of the filament end on the spool. Your spool is now a tangled unusable mess........... ;-) Thanks chuck. Does Capricorn really have a higher heat rating? I have seen internet talk where is does not.
The tubes are always too long out of the factory. The shorter, the better. The limit is you don't want the tube to drag the printhead. Short tubes reduces the retractation ratio, and allows flexible filaments with similar print profiles than with direct drive feeders.
Just changed mine using your videos. 3 upgrades just today. Thank you !!!
Thanks for the info I have been using stock Bowden ptfe for 8+ months with no problem but recently I got a jam in the hot end part of the ptfe tube so I ordered a Capricorn ptfe and new couples so I hope this helps improve
Please don't turn/tighten the couplings if the PTFE tube is still inside, otherwise he teeth of the coupling basically cut into the tube! This then creates a grove in the PTFE which also makes it impossible to remove it from the coupler. You mentioned that the new coupler is better than the old ones because you can now easily remove the tube after it was inserted which actually works with the stock ones, too, IF the tube is in fine condition.
The head moving back and forth actually causes the tube to twist slightly in the coupling. 100’s of hours printing causes most of that damage not the little bit I tightened.
@@FilamentFriday the coupler that you screwed in the extruder gear mount could be damaged that way, the best thing is to first screw it in then put the PTFE, and if you need to remove it then first remove PTFE then unscrew the coupler (best tip to not destroy the PTFE is to first push the ptfe tube inside of the coupler, then pressing the plastic thing to remove the tube and then removing the tube, that's the way to cause the least damage
@@specy_ Yes I was going to comment the same thing!
Hey CHEP, I noticed everyone likes to mention the metal teeth as a part of any good coupling; however, on the ender 3 that I just recently purchased a few weeks ago the hot end coupler now has metal teeth. Something that apparently wasn't included a year or so ago. Just something I noticed because a lot of people seem to be giving the coupling a bad rep. Maybe the newer ones aren't so bad?
They did appear to improve them.
I was having problems with filament breaking in the extruder. The PTFE tube was cracked exactly where you pointed out at the coupling at the hot end. I performed the maintenance in this video and the problem is solved. Thanks Chep! 😀
Glad it helped.
When I assemble a new printer, this is one of the items that gets installed from day one. I have zero experience with the provided PTFE and want to keep it that way.
Checked my tube and sure enough is wasn't pushed all the way down. Reseated and noticed wear starting on stock tube where the coupling is. Anyway, long story short, no more stringing, ordered the Capricorn tubing and cutter!
Screwing the coupling in/out repeatedly with the tube still through it is probably what caused it to chew through the tube. Never do that, always pull the tube out first!
(Even while it's much more difficult at times. But the fix with short separate tube piece in the hotend helps immensely with easier serviceability, including this issue).
The back and for movement of the hotend twists the PTFE and caused those cuts over time.
@@FilamentFriday I'd say it had a play in it, but on printers where you never create the groove all around the tube in the first place it doesn't happen like this, or way slower, as the coupler grips the tube firm with it's teeth. All it takes is screwing it in with the tube through once or twice while servicing for a groove to appear, which will massively speed up this kind of damage during normal operation.
@@Tomaskomyou have no idea how many hours tonight I was trying to figure out my problem and you nailed it. Thank you both CHEP for pointing it out on the video (took forever to find this) and for you Thomaskom for noting the exact issue I was having. Filament would not extrude because it was so tight/cutoff at the coupler and not tightening with tube inserted fixed my issue. Lots of tube wasted but still have slack.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I just ordered a set for my ender 3.
Upgrading your Bowden system may possibly be the best cost to performance increase ratio of all DIY mods. Taking into account the ease of the procedure, it most definitely is to me.
So is there any way for us to get that red tubing instead of the blue? It's gorgeous.
You’ll have to ask Capricorn.
Fantastic as usual!! There is some discussion about NOT tie wrapping the PTFE tube and wiring together. What's your take?
As long as it’s loose I don’t see an issue.
Seems like an easy kit to run filament directly from a filament dryer to the 3D printer as well.
My factory Bowden tube had the exact same two jams! I can’t print for two days now waiting for the new tube..
Nice video! As a stop-gap measure, I was able to cut one end off and swap the ends around. Worked great until the replacement arrived :)
What's the actual length of the Bowden tubing though? I've read 18in online but that seems to be a tad too much.
It just occurred to me that you leave the upper connector loose to feed the filament. Duh. I continually struggle to get the filament past that point. Sometimes the simplest things are exceptionally helpful. Thanks.
Personally ive never had that problem and instead cut the filament on an angle, then you have a much smaller point to get into the tube and it makes feeding it in much easier.
Great stuff, have the same kit! It was a nice addition to the Ender3 and certainly something everyone should consider when looking at things that can be improved from the base config.
I don't know why but I find it so funny that you use the tools that came with the Ender 3 but have a full garage of tools right there.
Not everybody has my tools and some complained in the past about it so now I use the included tools as much as possible.
for instructions purpose i like that you use the tools that comes with the printer😁
@@FilamentFriday That's really thoughtful of you, thanks!
This was reall helpful cuz im new to 3d printing and ive replaced my hot end and then my PTFE locks werw broke so yeah and now i can begin printing again
Thank you for these great informative videos!!!!!
I really appreciate this video. I had to get this tubing because the stock tubing is garbage. This tutorial was awesome!👍🏾
Kept getting the same problem until I changed over to Capricorn tubing. The heat from the hot end was distorting the tube and shrinking it onto the filament
Hi.
I was watching a lot tube while prinntig. The tube is cut not because one turns thw coupling. It happens seldom (usually). I have made a mark on a tube just above the coupler on the hot end. When the carriage moves along X axis the tube rotate inside the cupler. It is due the geometry of the tubing path, stiffness and the way all thing is assembled. Due this back and forward rotation sharp coupling teeths cut through the tube. For sure Chep srew pritable coupling or other one locking the tube axially would be recomended.
Best regards!
I had stock PTFE tube issues printing nylon on my CR10 with stock hot end assembly . Switched to capricorn and no more problems. It seems to handle the temp.
Does it work well with super cheap filament that may not always be exactly the right size, though? I'm worried about upgrades that are going to make it so I can't keep using my cheapo filament.
Thanks for the video. Just ordered through your link.
I wanna do this to my recently purchased CR10 even though my PTFE tubing is still fine. But after reading several posts in this section, I'm not sure I'd want to.
Why? It's a good upgrade.
2 weeks in to having my ender 3 and the original PTFE tube goes... Well, at least I won't have to do this again soon. Thanks for the vid.
Hi Chep. I followed your instructions and I changed for a Capricorn Tubing after mine was damaged. The machine was working very well with no problems before the change. But now, I have under extrusion and my piece is coming apart. Do you have any ideas? Thx
Not sure what piece is but check these: ruclips.net/p/PLRFPlUhDTTlka-Cq-UmI3IbbHRIwG2OsX
After installing this tube it jams at the hot end due to tube expansion. Do you have a video about this? It was fine before
Thanks for the guidance! Great as always.
Question: I’m printing with white PLA, and my prints are now coming out with a very noticeable blue tinge… is that normal for Capricorn tubing?
And if so… will it go?
THAT BRIDGE YO LMFAOOO. Great video I needed that
"I love the red tubing..."
I see what you did there... :)
Really nice, easy to follow tutorial! Thank you.
How do I get down on that red tubing! :D
I had under extrusion issues and got week prints after only one good print. I got my Ender 3 last week and things kind of went downhill. I opened up my extruder and it was burnt at the end so I ordered a new coupling and Capicorn PTFE tube. Will this work?
Did it work? I have the same under extrusion issues and am considering buying the tube to fix it
@@rehanaal-soltane7647 Amazon has an upgrade that includes the tube and beefier springs for under $20, get both andf try it out
Hi Chep
now I have asked the same question twice in this thread without you answering, despite the fact that you have answered other questions as a silent one after I asked mine, it wonders me a bit because you have been in wire
I view comments from a central screen that feeds me lots of questions per day from the 100’s of videos I’ve released and get watched daily. So occasionally I miss a few.
So What’s the question?
I don’t see it when I scroll thru that particular video.
Does the length of the bowden tube effect retraction? I ended up just leaving the entire tube as is without cutting it because I had to modify where the roll is on my ender 5 to fit it into an enclosure and I had no measurements. Should I go back and cut it to correct length to stop my stringing?
Some say length matters but I did a test and found it doesn’t matter. ruclips.net/video/DB5b4673GJ0/видео.html
If you don't have a tube cutter, you can use a brand new razor blade ($1 for 5 pack at home depot). DON'T saw, just slowly slice directly down with firm pressure. You need a really good straight cut if you want it to fit perfectly with no gaps. Took me 10 tries but eventually worked lol.
I had printed the cutter guide initially to do Luke's hot end fix. Used it to ensure my straight cut.
My Ender pro kit came with cutter (light blue one) that worked fine too.
its necessary these clips for the tube? my kit don't have it
CHEP. Any idea if there are better couplers for use with the micro Swiss hot end??I hate the plastic ones. Thanks.
Thank you for this video! I had a printer breakdown just when my son wanted parts for his physics project (mousetrap car). It turned out that it was a massive blockage in the original ptfe tube. There was also so brown grease at the nozzle end of the tube? I had actually bought a replacement and never installed it. The video directions got us going and back on track. Thanks again!
I believe the brown "grease" is actually residue from burnt PLA - take a q-tip w/alcohol and clean that stuff out!
I just did this to my ender 3 and now the nozzle leaks filament before i start printing. Any ideas to what i did wrong. I figured if i didn't get the tube all the way down it would be clogging before the nozzle.
If the nozzle leaks then the nozzle may be loose.
@@FilamentFriday wouldn't it be leaking out from the threads then and not the tip?
hi, I'm writing to you from Italy to ask you kindly to give me a link to find the CAPRICORN Red like the one you have in the video. unfortunately I find only the blue one ... and I'm going crazy because I really like what you use in the video. I thank you in advance and I congratulate you from Italy for the excellent videos and thanks to that for your magic 0.20 profile that I now use for every print .. great
It was a special edition. Not available anymore.
I have recently tried to upgrade my Ender 3 stock springs with some yellow springs, which is available now in Amazon India. Seller is providing 3 options for size. 25 mm, 20 mm and 15mm in length. I went ahead with 25 mm and soon realized that 25 mm is loo long for Ender 3 and I replaces with 20 mm. 20 mm was 1 mm longer when fully compressed and I need to adjust the Z-limit switch approx 1 mm higher. Then I tried 15 mm one and it was just fit as needed. My question if the 15 mm is good enough and if the shorter length has any potential performance issue as compared with the 20 mm one? Actually I don't want to adjust my Z-limit switch and want to go with its default position.
Not sure but clipping off the knob on the Z stop switch is common and gives you more control. I would not be afraid to adjust the Z stop to make it work.
Any way to get the Red Bowden tube?
This helped me a lot thank you friend.
I've been a Capricorn fan since they began selling PTFE tubing. My advice is to use Capricorn from day 1 and throw away the cheap tubing that comes with the Ender 3.
I was about to ask that, thank you :)
Thanks ! I needed this
Thanks dude you have said me so much trouble!!!
I was having this same issue he described along with the extruder motor clicking because it was getting jammed up. bought a new hot end with the capricorn tubing for $20 on amazon and its all good now. The kit come with the stock tubing and the capricorn but I dont think this capricorn is needed. the stock worked fine until 2 years of printing wore it out.
Capricorn is good if you plan on printing at high temperatures. If you are gonna pirnt in PLA... Agreed it makes no difference.
your suggestions are very good man , you are perfect thanks for this video
is this really important if you work good with the original?
If what you have works, don’t change it.
@@FilamentFriday Behold, a business owner that is a human being
I've changed mine to Capricorn on Ender 3 and the retraction magic of 6 mm per 25mm/s is not working anymore. Many stringing now. Do you have updated your parameters after changing to Capricorn ? I understand that is tighter so I need to change retraction but its very hard to find the right parameters... thanks !
Try 7-8 mm
@@FilamentFriday Chuck, talking to others they told be that capricorn is tighter so you need less mm but faster retraction. With 5mm with 50mm/s I got almost no string... 97-98% perfect. Just sharing. Tks.
Have you reflashed your firmware? The stock Ender 3 firmware has a 25mm/s speed limit for the extruder.
@@FilamentFriday No, I did not. But changed to the silent 1.1.5 silent original board
Will one meter of this be enough for the Ender 3 Pro and CR10S? Or should I buy two meters?
Yeah. Definitely.
Pedro A. Pérez Alberty one meter is enough
Hi Chep,
In the past you posted a video about a short tube inside the heat exchanger.
Now you give this solution.
Which is better?
Nir
Either works. It’s your choice.
I've redone this multiple time even buying more tubbing to redo the cut. Every time what I'm assuming is a gap fills the hotend with plastics and causes crazy amounts of stringing. Am I doing something wrong? Could a new hotend help?
Great video and info!! Sir I'm new to 3d printing so i'm trying to learn all i can.. Would you have a link on how I can make that bridge?? Thank You!!
Man, for the life of me, I can't get the capricorn ptfe to fit deep enough into the hot end, on my cr10 or my ender 3. I'm a bit baffled, by all means it should fit, but it simply just won't go far enough in.
Go to the Facebook 3d printing group it is very helpful
3d Printing Wiz discord is better
This, or just make it a direct drive?
And then deal with all new issues ;)
Tried DD (or at least short bowden). Didn't improve my retraction and made more work disassembling the extruder and hotend assembly to fix filament jams.
@@mvanzante I've seen most successful DD printers use geared extruders, so maybe you should have just gone all in on getting rid of anything bowden? I still have a bowden setup so I don't know.
With this tubing, can you print nylon?
No
Can you do a E3D V6 hotend swap? Preferably on your CR-10 mini. :-)
You sound exactly like Hobbs from the old world of warcraft videos haha. Love your videos thanks for all your help!!
Hello,
how long should the Capricorn PTFE tube be in millimeters for the Ender 3?
Unfortunately I have had to cut mine several times.
Thank you
HI chep, can I do the same for my Anycubic Chiron please ?
Probably but I don’t have that printer to verify.
Thanks for your video, I will give it a try anyway
Well on my Ender 3 Neo I can't put the coupling on the extruder side, there's nothing to screw it in. Resolutions?
With the extruder you bought there is a black plastic part, you put that part in the hole. It works exactly like a traditional coupling you push on in to insert the ptfe and when it’s done you pull it and you put the blue plastic to secure the tube
There are other options. I recently went with Tech Boss tubing. Higher quality at a lower price, in my opinion.
I'll check it out.
Thank You for the reply Chuck.
Frank M.
I’m looking to try out TPU filament. Heard it’s very soft and may retract a lot. Would the stiffness of Capricorn tubing be stiff enough to handle that filament?
Yep
Yes
any particular reason you didnt use your printed coupler that you showed before?
It doesn’t last for the hundreds of hours this prints.
@@FilamentFriday fair enough, thanks Chuck
Do you need to re-calibrate your e-steps afetr you have installed the Capricorn tubing?
Great ! Now that you have such a smoother ptfe, shouldn't you drive a test with TPU that usually require direct drive hotend ? Big thanks for you video Dude..
Thanks Chuck for this helpful video. I do have some Capricorn tubing I purchased for my Anet A8 but I'm still using the PTFE tubing that came with my E3V6 clone because I converted my A8 to Bowden Drive. Now you have me thinking because I tried printing an electronics case for my A8 and it was jamming not printing past a certain height. So I ended up printing it on my Ender3. But my reason for my comment is to request a favor. If you can make a video on how to reset the X-axis home position on the A8. The original home position of the hotend with the direct drive is just off the hotbed. Now with the Bowden hotend the new position sits farther to the right making the center of the print area off to the right. This makes printing larger items that sometimes go off the right side of the hotbed. This would be a big help. Thank You in advance.
Frank M.
It’s in the machine setup in Cura.
@@FilamentFriday, is that it in the drop down under TRAVEL, where is say's, Layer Start X?