For this kind of assembly, I hold the board horizontally, push in the components, then put a foam sponge on top of the components and hold it in place with a rubber band.
Trick/Suggestion: Discovered that pushing the S2-4 buttons don't really work. HOWEVER, pushing them Up/Down works great! To set the desired distance (alarm threshold), push S4 up/down to enter input mode, then push S2+3 up/down to decrease increase distance threshold. To accept, push S4 up/down again to exit set mode. When not in set mode, display shows distance to target. Cheers.
Those holes for the buzzer/speaker are so big, you could have just heated the solder in the hole and bounced the board on the table, and the solder would have come right out, when you do it that way you usually don't even have to clean the hole out
Curious what type of solder you use. I know you said .8mm (.031") but is it 60/40, 63/37? RA, RMA? 1.1%, 2.2%, 3.3%? I'm currently using a very old roll of kester "44" 66 core (3.3%) RA .031" and I just grabbed some kester 245 63/37 eutectic at .015" (.4mm) for smaller SMD boards. Just grabbed a 4 pack of SMD training boards which will be fun after practicing with these easier Through hole kits.
Wow I’m a dummy 😂 no wonder my clock ain’t work. I tried to solder the chip onto the holder component thingy. Well lesson learned for the next project lol.
Okay so my S2 button is not working but everything else is fully functional. I can set the distance and see the range of whatever object is infront of it. But the S2 button will not let it -1 from the screen. It only increases in value but won’t decrease. I soldered everything correct I believe. What could be the issue?
I've bought and built many of these kits. A good thing to do before you build it is to test every component that you're able to test. 8 times out of 10, one tiny component will be bad and ruin the entire experience.
I have two suggestions that may help: 1. My custom "Cabbage & Brussell Sprout Egg Surprise" the night before will ensure enough "obnoxious gases" emanating from you to keep people away automatically, and/or 2. A Priti Patel mask will also keep those pesky foreign tourists away.
@@backofficeshow Indeed, I tend to think about bulk-buying electronics kits now as the nights draw in and we're indoors more - plus there's usually some "kitsch" flashing Christmas decoration or two that's worth annoying the missus with!
@@backofficeshow I am still looking for an LED Christmas tree where they put the wrong sound chip in the pack - and when you light it up it plays "How Much Is That Doggy In The Window".
For this kind of assembly, I hold the board horizontally, push in the components, then put a foam sponge on top of the components and hold it in place with a rubber band.
I think that's why the DC in holes are so wide. You wire in the battery holder to them. Or through the holes in the legs
Very nice kit, im teaching myself electronics. I really appreciate the videos. They really helped me out alot. Thanks mate!
Great to hear!
ICstation has tons of radio kits.
I just built one that was the size of a matchbox.
Fun stuff
Going to try this one!!!
Found it on US Amazon for $12 after tax and comes with the acrylic case!!!
I already love you lol "a car!!" My type of humor
I also noticed you say the flat edge of the LED is positive, and waited to see if you noticed it not working. 😁
Blu tack is your friend. Use it told components in place while you flip the board to solder them.
I'm glad you acknowledged the pins because it was driving me mad that you were not cutting them as you went along.
Fun Kit. Haven't yet figure out the set buttons. They not only press, but also joystick. And, so, they do ... what I wonder?
A little research yielded; S2 = Reduce Distance / S3 = Increase Distance / S4 - Set-Display [Current] Distance
Trick/Suggestion: Discovered that pushing the S2-4 buttons don't really work. HOWEVER, pushing them Up/Down works great! To set the desired distance (alarm threshold), push S4 up/down to enter input mode, then push S2+3 up/down to decrease increase distance threshold. To accept, push S4 up/down again to exit set mode. When not in set mode, display shows distance to target. Cheers.
Those holes for the buzzer/speaker are so big, you could have just heated the solder in the hole and bounced the board on the table, and the solder would have come right out, when you do it that way you usually don't even have to clean the hole out
Great video thank you.
Curious what type of solder you use. I know you said .8mm (.031") but is it 60/40, 63/37? RA, RMA? 1.1%, 2.2%, 3.3%?
I'm currently using a very old roll of kester "44" 66 core (3.3%) RA .031" and I just grabbed some kester 245 63/37 eutectic at .015" (.4mm) for smaller SMD boards.
Just grabbed a 4 pack of SMD training boards which will be fun after practicing with these easier Through hole kits.
That led is the brightest thing in that room.
😂
Those STC microcontrollers are almost all 8051 variants.
I might look into how one would go about programming it, I have quite the collection now 😂
Almost
Wow I’m a dummy 😂 no wonder my clock ain’t work. I tried to solder the chip onto the holder component thingy. Well lesson learned for the next project lol.
An exercise in how to solder fast once you're very good at it.
Thanks 👍 or more like how to solder fast and badly :)
Once I have a caravan I want to avoid backing into my house, I'll get this kit immediately!
Are you getting a caravan? The nomadic life sounds good!
@@backofficeshow No I'm not.
Not yet .... 😂
The microcontroller is an advanced version of the Intel 8051, that predates PIC microcontrollers by a good few years.
based on the 80C32s
Oh, I get it! The _B_ is for Buzzer! _Not_ Battery.
If you put the 2 other clips upside down on the corners, you could flip it around quicker .. ;-)
I think you are right, out definitely needs more magnets!
Thanks buddy. Does it matter if two separate solder blobs are touching? Is it s redo?
Generally yes, better to
This looks like a great kit, but I can't find it anywhere. Does anyone have a link to the product? Thanks.
It would be nice if went sleep after a few seconds until the next time you move the car into the garage.
I suppose it would be easy enough to design a new one these days
Is that lead-free solder or is your iron really hot cause thats fuming a lot
Okay so my S2 button is not working but everything else is fully functional. I can set the distance and see the range of whatever object is infront of it. But the S2 button will not let it -1 from the screen. It only increases in value but won’t decrease. I soldered everything correct I believe. What could be the issue?
I've bought and built many of these kits. A good thing to do before you build it is to test every component that you're able to test.
8 times out of 10, one tiny component will be bad and ruin the entire experience.
I work retail and have to constantly tell tourists to stay 2m away from me. That would make my job A LOT easier!
You could wear it on a lanyard around your neck and modify it with an led message 😂
Awww spread the love and give them a nice hug!
I have two suggestions that may help:
1. My custom "Cabbage & Brussell Sprout Egg Surprise" the night before will ensure enough "obnoxious gases" emanating from you to keep people away automatically, and/or
2. A Priti Patel mask will also keep those pesky foreign tourists away.
Is that the correct link?
You can build the same circuit using the Arduino Uno, Nano, and Mega.
It's an interesting kit but seems a bit pricey on Amazon for what it is - will look to see if it's cheaper on Banggood or Aliexpress.
It's almost certainly available on those sites. Definitely worth buying asking with a bunch of other kits if not in a rush.
@@backofficeshow Indeed, I tend to think about bulk-buying electronics kits now as the nights draw in and we're indoors more - plus there's usually some "kitsch" flashing Christmas decoration or two that's worth annoying the missus with!
That's true, it's time to get started on the led Christmas trees!
@@backofficeshow I am still looking for an LED Christmas tree where they put the wrong sound chip in the pack - and when you light it up it plays "How Much Is That Doggy In The Window".
Ideally in a cat shaped one 😂
... screen ? ... that is a three digit 7-segment display ... you Sir suffer from delusion of grandeur ... you have a great many things to learn ...
A CAAA?!?
Why the hell is the MCU so massive? That's like a Z80 from the 1980's.
It probably is a design from the 1980s
Nice kit but i will use a tennis ball.
That's certainly the most reliable option!
... no hobbyist worth the salt would plug an IC and continue soldering! ... it is just not done ...
Should be using gloves when soldering