What you have is a Wein bridge oscillator. The incandescent lamp is not supposed to glow. You will also find it interesting if you tap the board and watch the scope...as the filament moves.
microphonic you could say :p . I recall some ceramic caps also showing similar behaviours but much less exaggerated in comparison to a springy filament.
MG That is what I was thinking. I do seem to recall something decades ago that used a bulb like that for something other than light, which makes sense as what would you illuminate on a PCB? Kind of like springs can make your drum brakes work in your car or springs can create vibrato in your Fender Twin guitar amp.
this is a tip which really helped me ... solder one end in very loosely ....press the resistor down flat while reflowing that joint; then solder in the other end.
When you were concerned about the 13.5 volt supply, you forgot about the 9 volt Zener across the supply. The 4700 series diodes are rated at one watt, so that is not a concern at the elevated voltage. The 220 ohm 1/4 watt's rating is more of a concern. 13.5V - 0.7 V = 12.8V - 9.1V = 3.7V 3.7*3.7/220= 0.062 so 62mW will not be problem. The light will not glow. The nonlinear resistance of the tungsten lamp helps lessen the distortion of the sine wave.
I think you might find that 500 ohm pot is for tone purity, ie lowest distortion, not frequency. The lamp will not glow it's for temperature compensation.
Don't pay any attention to "O". You hang in there HC. Bad days/hard times happen to everyone in school or in work. Life in general. Don't make the mistake I made of dropping out of school. Not suggesting you would but if you feel down, watch a Julian video. Keeps me going! Any RUclipsr, actually, that does electronics. Julian just happens to have one of the best deliveries and personalities that puts him, in my "book", at the top.
Neat, I've had it with tht devices fitting them to the board just to have them fall straight out, now I just solder them on from the top side and it works a treat!
Great work as usually Julian, I too enjoy listening to you ramble as you solder. The difference between you doing it on You Tube and the rest of use tinkering in our shops is you have an audience, and are making a good living do this type of video. To all the nay-sayers out there, have you noticed that Julian has ALMOST 150,000 subscribers!!. And, only because "i love you".. why did you mention the "through-plating" twice... looks to me that this is a single sided board.. where is the through plating going..??...LOL... cheerio!
The holes do appear to be through plated despite it being a single sided board. You can see it in the larger holes (terminal blocks) later in the video.
well then, that is truly interesting, (the through plating). I do believe the through plating is performed after the holes are drilled and before the etching is done. So for the through plating to work there must have been copper on the top side of this board at one time. Seems a bit odd that the manufacturer would use double sided boards and then etch 100% of the copper off. Seems a bit waist-full..Hummm..
For my last through-hole kit build, I held the PCB in a vice and soldered the components from the top side. Let gravity work for you, instead of against you.
I bought one of these eBay Sine Wave Audio Frequency Generators (or 1kHz oscillator). After building it, these were my results:- Supply Voltage: 12.6V Current consumption: 18.2mA Maximum AC output: 6V peak-peak (oscilloscope) Maximum AC output: 2.068V RMS (multimeter)(Fluke) Output Frequency: 1.0302kHz (frequency counter) Output Frequency: 1.0303kHz (multimeter)(Fluke) All of the above after adjusting for the best quality sine wave signal with minimum distortion (on my analogue oscilloscope). (Note that I borrowed my works Fluke multimeter for the frequency and RMS readings).
Soft rounded leads just don't look as nice and professional as sharp bends do. Bend them all the same with sharp bends (use a tool) and then either put a small bend in them once inserted or just carefully flip the board and the table will prevent them falling out. To make it look even more professional solder tack one lead then double check that it is lying flat and then solder the other lead while applying a little pressure with your finger. Just be quick so the resistor doesn't heat up and burn your finger. If you use the lead bender tool all your resistors and diodes will be very uniform and look very professional.
This is a dubious process as the pad could delaminate if the solder doesn't melt fully. Use a small piece of heat resistant foam. Just lay it across the components and turn the whole thing over. This is also a good way to keep components flat to the board even if they are different heights.
The lamp is used to stabilise the amplitude for minimum distortion. It is a positive temperature coefficient resistor in the feedback circuit, so when cold the gain is high to start oscillations, then it warms up and the amplitude settles down. These designs tend to jump around in amplitude when changing frequency.
The lamp is no amplitude stabilizer. It stabilizes the gain of the amplifier stage to a factor of 3. The amplitude of the oscillation will be at at certain point where the gain is 3 for a certain frequency. That's why there is another amplifier stage to set a certain amplitude. I prefer the op amp circuit of the Wien bridge oscillator. You can stabilize it very easy setting the gain a little bit more than 3 and open a parallel resistor path by use of a two anti-serially Zener diodes when the amplitude exceeds a certain voltage. The parallel resistor has a value that brings the total gain to a little bit less than 3.
Julian, did you by chance put the 220 resistor at the bottom of the board instead of the 330? Darn blue resistors. (I love typing DARN) ... I thought another comment caught it, but it didn't. @12:07 - Of course, all rogue resistors should be 'soddered'. I think there' might be a little bit of American in you ;-)
Many schematics for sine wave generators with op amps use an incandescent light bulb in the dc feedback path to adjust the gain in the inverting input but i dont know the reason why,at least i hope all the led lighting fans out there not to find it outrageous and not ecofriendly enough.I want to make an 1KHZ sinewave oscillator for inductors measurement circuit and this circuit looks nice.
Is the bulb the inductor in the oscilator circuit? I built this as a simple sine wave generator for bench signal for preamps and amps, I then wanted to adjust the signal frequency and amplitude so I mounted it into a little box with two external 500 ohm pots and a 9V battery. In order to adjust it I built the simple frequency meter you built and abruptly found out it's TTL level input so I also built a little preamp for the frequency meter which worked just fine. The sine wave generator would only adjust to 948Khz which is close enough and 0V to 2V output and 4.8V with the preamp for the frequency meter. Thanks for all your great vids
I think you'll find that small resistors do not have copper leads, it's tin plated steel, its easy to test with a magnet. That 1N4007 on the other hand, since it has to dissipate a lot of power and remain cool probably does have copper leads. Despite the fact that it appeared to do so I don't think that the pot is supposed to change the frequency. It's to fine tune the loop gain in order to minimise distortion. To change the frequency you have to change both of the 16k resistors in the Wein bridge network. A ganged pair of pots is usually used. If you want a wider frequency range then the two capacitors are changed with a rotary switch to give frequency ranges. Then you have a general purpose sine wave signal generator that Clive Sinclair would have charged you £100 for.
Why are there only snooty ass faces in the comments right now? He built a kit for the hell of it and he did a fine job. He literally just thought you guys might want to come along for the ride while he has fun.
Blue resistors can definitely be hard to read depending on the manufacture. Solder, like many, many words has a silent "L". You should (another) search for "silent L".
The lamp shouldn't be glowing. It's a Wein bridge oscillator. The lamp is the "tank circuit" of sorts. Heating and cooling the filament causes a change of the resistance of the lamp, this changes the voltage drop that is controlling the current through the lamp and that's how the thing oscillates. In order to achieve this effect it's not needed to push high amount of current through the lamp and have it glow.
As quick as that iron heats up, you wasted a good bit of your battery power doing things the way you did. I'd have put all of the resistors and the diodes in at once, then fired it up and soldered it, turning it off at that point. But attention to detail when it comes to this stuff is a good thing! BTW, the proper term for the function of that 9013 transistor is "buffer", so you're not loading the oscillator circuit with whatever you connect to the output. And, it's quite normal not to see any visible indication in the light bulb when one is used in these circuits. Disconnecting one end of the bulb from the board and measuring the current will show you why, it's a LOT less than the bulb's typical operating current.
this is why i use my tranny tester when building these kits. the first tranny tester took a bit longer to build because of the need to slowly use my DMM for every "rebel can". have you made a JYETech DSO, its a fun build and i think a great option for youtubers doing these things. half my desk has these kits. just made a multi function generator this week.
I don't really like tantalum capacitors cause it's yellow and it doesn't look simulator to my capacitors... Can you get use to electrolytic capacitors?
Cause tantalum doesn't look right for my projects... Electrolytic capacitors come 100,000 values and seem good... Can you use them? If not, I'll unsubscribe! USE IT!
One question, You like tantalum cause it's small better then electrolytic? Cause it's HUGE!? SIZE OF YOU'R HOUSE!!?? YOU HATE IT?! Just use it please julian!! Just for now!!! :(
Enjoyed the vid! Back to basics. Why has there been a switch to these impossible to read blue metal film resistors from the carbon type? Are they cheaper, more reliable or what? I don’t like them.
John Armstrong the metal film resistors are 1% tolerance, they are suited for high voltage and they don't frigging burst into flames if they are tortured by an excessive amount of current. They used to be more expensive than the carbon ones, but nowadays they cost about the same
The hand drawn circuit diagram makes me think this was someone's personal project they posted on the internet and it got ripped off by a Chinese electronics manufacturer to sell on eBay.
Well yes, who wouldn't want to watch 2 hours of real time unedited footage from the front of a bus or tune in every week to a Scandinavian "drama" series of bleak, washed out, grey tones and absolutely nothing happening. ... I suppose when the alternative is Love Island it's not so bad.
If you tap on the video once, you’ll get a thin line on the bottom of the video. Yo will see also a small red circle. The small red circle represents current position in the video. As the video plays, the red circle moves along the thin line. Little known trick is clicking or, if you are on a touch enabled device, tapping on the little red circle and moving it to any position. In essence, as you do so you can achieve what in the era of cassette equipment was referred to as “fast forwarding”.
Hiya Julian - check out Jeri Ellsworth's 5 minute video demonstrating how useful a bulb is for linearity : ruclips.net/video/vBsSASge7ls/видео.html Cheers.
As an American (who generally says "soder" [and knows it's wrong]) I'm feeling quite mocked by the emphasis on the "L" and the funny voice while saying "soder." However, there are no hurt feelings here.
That video was awful, and I sadly noticed that you never heard about the Wien-bridge oscillator, which is a basic electric circuit in any electrical school, and about the negative feedback stabilization with a nonlinear bulb. It has much less than a Volt on it, so please don't wonder that it is dark. And the real time assembling with this ridiculous Bluetack technique was very boring even if I set the double speed. BTW this is one of the best type of sine wave oscillators. Try to measure the distortion if you have any equipment for that.
I totally agree but what did you expect? The guy has never been taught anything, thats why he can't teach anything. And thats why he has no knowledge about the Wien-bridge oscillator, let alone negative feedback stabilization.
![Как работает Электронный Микроскоп? Фотографируем атомы [Branch Education на русском]](/img/1.gif)
What you have is a Wein bridge oscillator. The incandescent lamp is not supposed to glow. You will also find it interesting if you tap the board and watch the scope...as the filament moves.
Thanks, I'll check that out :)
microphonic you could say :p . I recall some ceramic caps also showing similar behaviours but much less exaggerated in comparison to a springy filament.
MG That is what I was thinking. I do seem to recall something decades ago that used a bulb like that for something other than light, which makes sense as what would you illuminate on a PCB? Kind of like springs can make your drum brakes work in your car or springs can create vibrato in your Fender Twin guitar amp.
Julian is so adorable, I feel like he's the kind of guy that has picnics in that park at the weekend. So wholesome :3
@Fletcher Leland nah I'm alright
this is a tip which really helped me ... solder one end in very loosely ....press the resistor down flat while reflowing that joint; then solder in the other end.
When you were concerned about the 13.5 volt supply, you forgot about the 9 volt Zener across the supply. The 4700 series diodes are rated at one watt, so that is not a concern at the elevated voltage. The 220 ohm 1/4 watt's rating is more of a concern. 13.5V - 0.7 V = 12.8V - 9.1V = 3.7V 3.7*3.7/220= 0.062 so 62mW will not be problem.
The light will not glow. The nonlinear resistance of the tungsten lamp helps lessen the distortion of the sine wave.
I think you might find that 500 ohm pot is for tone purity, ie lowest distortion, not frequency. The lamp will not glow it's for temperature compensation.
it really is simpler to think of the multiplier band as "how many zeros to add" rather than all the 10-to-whatever-power stuff
You should not expect the lamp to light. It's there as a PTC resistor to improve the THD of the oscillator.
Yes! this is just what I need at the moment. Going through a hard time in school at the minute and your videos are the only thing which cheer me up!
And then the masturbation generation wonders why they can't get a well-paid job.
What? I do not understand what you mean by this?
Don't pay any attention to "O". You hang in there HC. Bad days/hard times happen to everyone in school or in work. Life in general. Don't make the mistake I made of dropping out of school. Not suggesting you would but if you feel down, watch a Julian video. Keeps me going! Any RUclipsr, actually, that does electronics. Julian just happens to have one of the best deliveries and personalities that puts him, in my "book", at the top.
@@Okurka. bruh there isn't ANY jobs, let alone well paid ones. Also masterbation has existed for as long as animals have so idk what ur talking about.
Thanks for trying it, I was about to have a fit !
Hollywood should learn from Julian about cliffhangers.
Looks like Wien bridge oscillator with buffered output. Bulb is there to keep the gain at just right level.
Neat, I've had it with tht devices fitting them to the board just to have them fall straight out, now I just solder them on from the top side and it works a treat!
No part two then Julian?
Julian, try a magnet on those resistor lead cut-offs - think you'll find most are steel nowadays!
It's true!
I usually keep some very fine (1000 to 2000) grit sandpaper around for problems like the light bulb leads being corroded.
Really informative video Julian - Love the way you explain things as you go.
Great work as usually Julian, I too enjoy listening to you ramble as you solder. The difference between you doing it on You Tube and the rest of use tinkering in our shops is you have an audience, and are making a good living do this type of video. To all the nay-sayers out there, have you noticed that Julian has ALMOST 150,000 subscribers!!.
And, only because "i love you".. why did you mention the "through-plating" twice... looks to me that this is a single sided board.. where is the through plating going..??...LOL... cheerio!
The holes do appear to be through plated despite it being a single sided board. You can see it in the larger holes (terminal blocks) later in the video.
well then, that is truly interesting, (the through plating). I do believe the through plating is performed after the holes are drilled and before the etching is done. So for the through plating to work there must have been copper on the top side of this board at one time. Seems a bit odd that the manufacturer would use double sided boards and then etch 100% of the copper off. Seems a bit waist-full..Hummm..
For my last through-hole kit build, I held the PCB in a vice and soldered the components from the top side. Let gravity work for you, instead of against you.
Did you get around to testing the kit - if so how did the results show for quality?
I bought one of these eBay Sine Wave Audio Frequency Generators (or 1kHz oscillator).
After building it, these were my results:-
Supply Voltage: 12.6V
Current consumption: 18.2mA
Maximum AC output: 6V peak-peak (oscilloscope)
Maximum AC output: 2.068V RMS (multimeter)(Fluke)
Output Frequency: 1.0302kHz (frequency counter)
Output Frequency: 1.0303kHz (multimeter)(Fluke)
All of the above after adjusting for the best quality sine wave signal with minimum distortion (on my analogue oscilloscope).
(Note that I borrowed my works Fluke multimeter for the frequency and RMS readings).
Thank you so much, Julian!!! This was a very nice build. Your soldering is excellent, definitely better than me.
Thanks for suggesting it - cheers :)
Soft rounded leads just don't look as nice and professional as sharp bends do. Bend them all the same with sharp bends (use a tool) and then either put a small bend in them once inserted or just carefully flip the board and the table will prevent them falling out. To make it look even more professional solder tack one lead then double check that it is lying flat and then solder the other lead while applying a little pressure with your finger. Just be quick so the resistor doesn't heat up and burn your finger. If you use the lead bender tool all your resistors and diodes will be very uniform and look very professional.
This is a dubious process as the pad could delaminate if the solder doesn't melt fully.
Use a small piece of heat resistant foam. Just lay it across the components and turn the whole thing over. This is also a good way to keep components flat to the board even if they are different heights.
The lamp is used to stabilise the amplitude for minimum distortion. It is a positive temperature coefficient resistor in the feedback circuit, so when cold the gain is high to start oscillations, then it warms up and the amplitude settles down. These designs tend to jump around in amplitude when changing frequency.
Thanks, I'll look out for that on the scope :)
The lamp is no amplitude stabilizer. It stabilizes the gain of the amplifier stage to a factor of 3. The amplitude of the oscillation will be at at certain point where the gain is 3 for a certain frequency. That's why there is another amplifier stage to set a certain amplitude.
I prefer the op amp circuit of the Wien bridge oscillator. You can stabilize it very easy setting the gain a little bit more than 3 and open a parallel resistor path by use of a two anti-serially Zener diodes when the amplitude exceeds a certain voltage. The parallel resistor has a value that brings the total gain to a little bit less than 3.
Julian, Please Do the Another kit Build!
Julian, did you by chance put the 220 resistor at the bottom of the board instead of the 330? Darn blue resistors. (I love typing DARN) ... I thought another comment caught it, but it didn't. @12:07 - Of course, all rogue resistors should be 'soddered'. I think there' might be a little bit of American in you ;-)
Many schematics for sine wave generators with op amps use an incandescent light bulb in the dc feedback path to adjust the gain in the inverting input but i dont know the reason why,at least i hope all the led lighting fans out there not to find it outrageous and not ecofriendly enough.I want to make an 1KHZ sinewave oscillator for inductors measurement circuit and this circuit looks nice.
Is the bulb the inductor in the oscilator circuit? I built this as a simple sine wave generator for bench signal for preamps and amps, I then wanted to adjust the signal frequency and amplitude so I mounted it into a little box with two external 500 ohm pots and a 9V battery. In order to adjust it I built the simple frequency meter you built and abruptly found out it's TTL level input so I also built a little preamp for the frequency meter which worked just fine. The sine wave generator would only adjust to 948Khz which is close enough and 0V to 2V output and 4.8V with the preamp for the frequency meter. Thanks for all your great vids
I think you'll find that small resistors do not have copper leads, it's tin plated steel, its easy to test with a magnet. That 1N4007 on the other hand, since it has to dissipate a lot of power and remain cool probably does have copper leads. Despite the fact that it appeared to do so I don't think that the pot is supposed to change the frequency. It's to fine tune the loop gain in order to minimise distortion. To change the frequency you have to change both of the 16k resistors in the Wein bridge network. A ganged pair of pots is usually used. If you want a wider frequency range then the two capacitors are changed with a rotary switch to give frequency ranges. Then you have a general purpose sine wave signal generator that Clive Sinclair would have charged you £100 for.
And will need calibrating every couple of weeks ;)
Why are there only snooty ass faces in the comments right now? He built a kit for the hell of it and he did a fine job. He literally just thought you guys might want to come along for the ride while he has fun.
Per the Spectroid app on Android the starting tone was 1025Hz
Not sure what I hate more. Blue resistors or 'soder'.
Blue resistors can definitely be hard to read depending on the manufacture. Solder, like many, many words has a silent "L". You should (another) search for "silent L".
If the L is silent then why do Americans insist on pronouncing it as another D? ;)
It’s only a silent “L” if you are a yank
Silent letters are a waste of letters. Just leave them out. Simplify things. I'm starting a Crusade to ban silent letters. OMG, the vodka just hit me.
'You should (another) search for "silent L".'
You accidentally a word.
These days cheap resistors come with steel legs instead of copper. Use a magnet to see for yourself.
why they moved from the light-brown-ish color to the cyan one for resistors? They're very hard to read!
the blue-er ones a metalized film, the brown ones care carbon film
Tolerance is different. 1or 2%.
Blue resistor body is an indication of "flameproof".
The lamp shouldn't be glowing. It's a Wein bridge oscillator. The lamp is the "tank circuit" of sorts. Heating and cooling the filament causes a change of the resistance of the lamp, this changes the voltage drop that is controlling the current through the lamp and that's how the thing oscillates. In order to achieve this effect it's not needed to push high amount of current through the lamp and have it glow.
Switch to a brass wire tip cleaner and extend your solder tip's lifespan.
Nice, now just hook up a foot switch and a large speaker and you have a RUclips rated censor beep machine!
Are you permanently promoting JLCPCB?
Twiddle the Pot? May I use that?
As quick as that iron heats up, you wasted a good bit of your battery power doing things the way you did. I'd have put all of the resistors and the diodes in at once, then fired it up and soldered it, turning it off at that point. But attention to detail when it comes to this stuff is a good thing! BTW, the proper term for the function of that 9013 transistor is "buffer", so you're not loading the oscillator circuit with whatever you connect to the output. And, it's quite normal not to see any visible indication in the light bulb when one is used in these circuits. Disconnecting one end of the bulb from the board and measuring the current will show you why, it's a LOT less than the bulb's typical operating current.
One component at a time is less prone to mistakes. However, I use a standard soldering iron for my kit builds.
For a man that may have everything i might suggest this "Component Lead Bending Tool"
Right, just 3D print one.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1022337
That's the ticket why buy one.
Because they cost £3-£4 and I don't have a 3D printer
this is why i use my tranny tester when building these kits. the first tranny tester took a bit longer to build because of the need to slowly use my DMM for every "rebel can".
have you made a JYETech DSO, its a fun build and i think a great option for youtubers doing these things. half my desk has these kits. just made a multi function generator this week.
He has and he made a video about it.
Where did you get that wonderful portable soldering stand?!??
It came with the TS100 iron :)
Pricy way to get one then!! I like the looks of the TS100, just not the price so much.
You can buy just the stand at banggood.com...
Julian, Can you use electrolytic capacitors? Can you use them for your projects? Please!!
Why?
I don't really like tantalum capacitors cause it's yellow and it doesn't look simulator to my capacitors... Can you get use to electrolytic capacitors?
Cause tantalum doesn't look right for my projects... Electrolytic capacitors come 100,000 values and seem good... Can you use them? If not, I'll unsubscribe! USE IT!
One question, You like tantalum cause it's small better then electrolytic? Cause it's HUGE!? SIZE OF YOU'R HOUSE!!?? YOU HATE IT?! Just use it please julian!! Just for now!!! :(
Well, if it stops you "singing", it was worth every ¥uan.
How does this comment not have a thousand thumbs up.
Handy iron. Where did you get it & brand name?
BRAD IsHear its a ts100, super good and portable soldering iron, the only downside is the price (around 60 dollars)
If not, buy it! And use it for your projects :)
I love watching the video and leaving before the first hater arrives.
What is a sine wave
i see they used DaveCAD for this designed
If the legs are from copper, why they stick to the magnet?
yeah... from china resistor leads are rarely copper these days.
Love it, Julian! You give good tutorials when you build/test simple little kits like this. I follow all your videos.
Many thanks Chris :)
I HATE blue background resistors!! - So hard to see the colours properly.
I much prefer the ocre/tan coloured ones.
Enjoyed the vid! Back to basics. Why has there been a switch to these impossible to read blue metal film resistors from the carbon type? Are they cheaper, more reliable or what? I don’t like them.
John Armstrong the metal film resistors are 1% tolerance, they are suited for high voltage and they don't frigging burst into flames if they are tortured by an excessive amount of current.
They used to be more expensive than the carbon ones, but nowadays they cost about the same
fersunk Ah! Appreciate the reply.
Why doesn't he just bend the leads on the other side
Because that's wrong.
Because Julian
The hand drawn circuit diagram makes me think this was someone's personal project they posted on the internet and it got ripped off by a Chinese electronics manufacturer to sell on eBay.
Lamp is used for amplitude stabilisation , it will never light !!
I still need to put my DSO138 oscilloscope together that I bought several months ago :P
Mine works but the solder joints look atrocious. Maybe get a flux pen and hopefully yours will look better than mine.
Need to get around to doing mine as well
i watch this at 1.5x
it was certainly 1k
Have you tried your Links, they don't work. Not for me anyway. Is there some secret ? What is it ?
I assume you include Links so people can see were to buy the items. Ebay doesn't know anything about the Links you provide. What gives ?
You hate electrolytic? Cause it's HUGE??!! PLEASE use it!! :( HELP!!
Who wants to watch videos of other people soldering a kit for 20 minutes? This is like watching BBC4
My favourite TV channel :)
Well yes, who wouldn't want to watch 2 hours of real time unedited footage from the front of a bus or tune in every week to a Scandinavian "drama" series of bleak, washed out, grey tones and absolutely nothing happening.
... I suppose when the alternative is Love Island it's not so bad.
@@KX36 "The Last of Summer Wine"! :)
If you tap on the video once, you’ll get a thin line on the bottom of the video. Yo will see also a small red circle. The small red circle represents current position in the video. As the video plays, the red circle moves along the thin line. Little known trick is clicking or, if you are on a touch enabled device, tapping on the little red circle and moving it to any position. In essence, as you do so you can achieve what in the era of cassette equipment was referred to as “fast forwarding”.
Hiya Julian - check out Jeri Ellsworth's 5 minute video demonstrating how useful a bulb is for linearity : ruclips.net/video/vBsSASge7ls/видео.html
Cheers.
Beautifully demonstrated :)
As an American (who generally says "soder" [and knows it's wrong]) I'm feeling quite mocked by the emphasis on the "L" and the funny voice while saying "soder."
However, there are no hurt feelings here.
I dont think they see or hear the L
That video was awful, and I sadly noticed that you never heard about the Wien-bridge oscillator, which is a basic electric circuit in any electrical school, and about the negative feedback stabilization with a nonlinear bulb. It has much less than a Volt on it, so please don't wonder that it is dark. And the real time assembling with this ridiculous Bluetack technique was very boring even if I set the double speed. BTW this is one of the best type of sine wave oscillators. Try to measure the distortion if you have any equipment for that.
bzoli5706
And yet you watched it?
I think he was teasing us about the bulb not lighting up, typical English humour I'm afraid....
I totally agree but what did you expect? The guy has never been taught anything, thats why he can't teach anything. And thats why he has no knowledge about the Wien-bridge oscillator, let alone negative feedback stabilization.
hi